Love your downsized mannequin and your teeny tiny sweater examples. The additions to your video really helps clarify the different sweater styles. I'm finding this series really helpful,
Roxanne this video is a revelation to me. I really appreciate the explanation and reasoning behind the choices if a garment is knit all in one piece vs knitting each piece separately. Light bulb 💡 moment. Wow! So many factors. Thank you!
I am so glad I found your channel . I have a ribber and a punch machine . Now I can truly understand sweater construction. Everyone is talking so fast . I can keep up with you ❤🙏
13:42 getting ready to try making my first raglan sweater. The vanilla sweater kit. I'm sure I will watch your videos alot!!!! Will keep you posted on trials, and tribulations. Lol. Jean
Thank you, thank you! Previously, I have only knit top down raglan sweaters for my young grandchildren. They fit fine. Now, I am starting on a bottom up raglan for my husband. It is a very different beast. Your video helped tremendously and certainly gives the big picture of what is planned for the yoke. I was clueless. Since my row gauge is off I will be watching your shaping video next. I believe that the sleeves need som shaping changes because he is muscular. I have been searching all over the internet. You are explaining exactly what I need. Thank you again!🙏
Thank you for this video and series. I JUST (this morning) finished a top-down raglan cardigan, about the 6th time I've made one. However, I never can seem to understand how to modify the typical pattern for my own shape, which is heavy/large upper arms, with a not very busty or wide chest/shoulders. It's my big arms that I can't seem to figure out mods, and I don't like form-fitted/tight-armed sweaters. If I just keep going on a normal raglan, I have to knit several extra rows to get enough stitches to get around my arms, and by that point, the armpit hangs really low. If I increase, say, every row instead of every other, just in the sleeves, it balloons out. If I pick up more stitches in the underarm than the pattern calls for, sometimes that works but it seems bunched up compared to the armpits/body. Would an option be to cast on a few more stitches, say 3-4 on a worsted-weight/DK weight for the sleeves? That'd give me a bit of an extra inch or so on the very top, and then maybe pick up 3-4 more stitches when I start the sleeves? Or stop increasing on the front piece while continuing to increase on the sleeves? Sorry for the long read, I was just obsessing about this issue this morning, and here comes your video, which got my brain going again. Argh. Big arms, not so big chest, back, and shoulders. I can't seem to find resources that help remedy this.
This is really interesting. Do you mean cast on more at the neck when you're starting? Then you'd end up with a slightly bigger neck, but I think it would work very well. You could knit more neck ribbing to compensate when finishing. Or you could increase a couple times at the top of the shoulder, like two increases per sleeve on one round near the beginning or around where the shoulder curves. I hope you try your idea and report back!
@@delalangosta Thank you for those ideas! Yes, casting on more stitches in the beginning in the shoulder/arm sections would make the neck bigger, you're right. Hmmm...I did just start a new sweater using bulky Lopi yarn and while I'm not too concerned about this fit (I want it big and warm like a sweatshirt), what I've been doing is regular increases for the first few increase rounds (on all sections per normal), and then I'm continuing to increase on the arms (so, increasing every other round there) but only increase every other increase round (so every 4th round) in the back/front. I'm hoping that will reduce some of the body bulk while providing enough arm inches. Your idea on increasing twice on some of the shoulder-curve section is a good one too! I just feel I use a size larger than I normally would, only to get the correct arm fit...and then the body bulks up in the underarm. So now I'm trying new things, and I'll keep your ideas for my next sweater. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video! I'm currently designing a raglan sweater for my daughter and this is very helpful. I do have a question about fit issues. If I'm making a sweater for someone whose waist is bigger than their chest, how do you add the extra room to the body of the sweater to accommodate the tummy? Is it as simple as increasing near the waist to add extra stitches the front of the sweater, or is it something more complex like short rows or darts? If it is the latter how do you approach setting these up if you have the measurements of the intended wearer? I'm pretty comfortable making a sweater from a formula, but this particular fit issue is something I don't know how to approach.
Just let me know if there is a better venue for this kind of question. Thanks so much for this info - such great timing! I have done a couple of raglan sweaters, with short rows in the back. I'm working on a top-down raglan pattern that has you doing the raglan increases and short rows at the same time on both sides of the work: "Short Row 1 (RS): K to marker, SLM, M1L, K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, W&T. Short Row 2 (WS): P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, W&T. Short Row 3 (RS): K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, K 1 st past previous turn, picking up wrap along the way, W&T. Short Row 4 (WS): P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P 1 st past previous turn, picking up wrap along the way, W&T. Work Short Rows 3&4 until you have worked a total of 18 short rows. After the final turn, work to return to the original start of the round as follows: K to marker, M1R, SLM." I've been practicing M1L and M1R on the purl side (WS) and I've been practicing wrap and turn. But when I try to do all of these instructions at the same time, it's a mess. I've experimented with doing German short rows (instead of W&T) and KFB on both sides of the work just to see if it would be shaped correctly (but maybe not pretty) to see if i can get a handle on what it should look like. This experiement created a crazy vase of knitting. I looked at your video on substituting German short rows for other short rows, but I couldn't figure out where the turn would be (since the pattern calls for increasing on both sides of the work). Is thre a wya to only do increases on the right side of the work? Thanks so much for all the work to you!
I would suggest starting a new discussion thread in my Ravelry group. You'll get lots of help, and it's much easier for others to learn from the questions/answers that way, as well. There is always a link to my Ravelry group in the video description.
1. Some tips, tricks and/or book suggestions for top down knitting would be helpful 🙏 2. Tutorial on the crochet technique you mentioned for beefing up the stability of the ‘seams’ on a raglan sweater, please. 3. Any aids with winter approaching to help with knitting in the dark, keeping track of rows for any patterns, etc? I live in Alaska 💕🧶🏔️🙋🏻♀️
There are book suggestions listed in the video descriptions of the introduction to this series, as well as in the description of least on other (I think the one on set in sleeves). The tutorial for the slip stitch technique should be in the video description of this video.
I’ve been a subscriber for about 2 years now. The videos you and Suzanne Bryan have made essentially taught me to knit. I just completed my first seamless sweater. The result is everything I could have hoped for, but I want my knitware to last longer. Going forward, I want to focus on seamed designs. I purchased Amy Herzog’s book, “Ultimate Sweater Book”, but it only devoted 4 pages to seamed raglans. Aspects of the design are only vaguely discussed. Googling a more in-depth book has given no results. I see nothing but “top down seamless” descriptions for all sweater constructions! I see so many books behind you in your videos, do you know of any book that may give a more detailed explanation of seamed raglan design and construction? I’d appreciate any recommendations! I’m interested in seamed set-in-sleeve books as well.
Hi. A quick Ravelry search indicates that Pat Menchini is a designer who make many seamed raglan sweater patterns. May be you can ask her about this topic.
There's a link in the video description to my Ravelry page for that project. From the project page, there's a link to the pattern page. The pattern page indicates the source, which is a Patons & Baldwin booklet published in the 1950s. I got my copy used. You can likely find a used copy somewhere online.
I still have problems with all my knitting projects 😅 but raglan is something I avoid at all costs, even if I want to make some raglan sweaters. My shoulders are quite broad and the few raglan sweaters I have (bought or made) are pulling down on my arm in a weird way.
I love your videos! They are professionally produced and full of great techniques. I have had issues working top-down raglan sweaters. I have a 40” bust but am otherwise smaller. To get the chest measurement I need, I end up knitting a larger size, so by the time I knit the rows I need to go around my bust, the yoke is too long and the sleeves are way too big. Unfortunately, I can’t tell this is the case until it’s too late. The sweaters I have made that actually fit me are knit bottom up in pieces and seamed. Then I can compare each piece to the schematic and make sure that the length of each piece from the armpit up is correct. Would it be possible to knit the back and sleeves of a sweater in a Medium size and the front in a Large? I can’t see a way to do that, since both width and length change with size.
You'll want the length of the front and back to be the same to the armhole, but the shaping rate for the front will be different for the back, so that you'll have the stitch count you need. Figure out how many sts you need to increase for the back over the number of rows you need to get to the deisred armhole depth. You will need that same number of rows for the front, but you will work increases more often, in order to end up with the correct stitch count for your bust.
Oh,boy. And yikes. Am nearly done with my first sweater. A bottom up up raglan in the round (stash dive raglan) holding a worsted + fingering. Its a heavy sweater. Sleeves knitted & attached. Currently am Nearly at the neckline. Pattern doesn't have any short row shaping for the back. When would i need to incorporate that? Also, you mentioned crocheting along the seams. Pattern has paired decreases from sleeve join to neck, no actual 'sewn seams' because of the weight, should i consider adding a crocheted slip stitch? Or perhaps that would not be possible with this type of construction. Wow, so much more to consider then what's in the pattern. Thank you for all your podcasts. Its very kind of you to share so much wisdom.♡
I can’t seem to get the hang of that book. Been knitting sweaters. Any suggestions on a blog or other RUclips video that helps me to understand Coco knits process?
@@elizabeth4053 there are a few cocoknits tutorials on youtube but I haven't tried any. I don't use the yoke method described in cocoknits, but I have adapted the worksheet for plotting the increases for raglan sleeved jumpers and cardigans. I've found the worksheet especially useful for managing the sorts of fit issues that Roxanne is talking about in the video, especially varying the increases on the sleeves from those on the front and back (otherwise I end up with too much fabric under the arms), and for designing and incorporating increases for necklines. Good luck 😊
I’m a Norwegian knitwear designer, and I recently discovered your RUclips channel, and I’m already a big fan! 🤩 It is incredibly educational, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I have seen the series about sweater design and there are an incredible number of great tips. I am now going to design my first men's raglan sweater, and I was wondering if you have any tips on where I can find raglan measurements in the different men's sizes. I have made myself a template/schematic with measurements for babies, children and for women, including raglan measurements, so that I can grade my pattern in all the sizes. But I have not been able to find raglan measurements for men. I will be very thankful if you have any advice on where I can find this. It doesn't matter if it's cm or inch, I can convert the numbers anyway. 😃
This is a great question. I would suggest posting it in my Ravelry group, where others could learn from the question/answers. Or you might consider asking in the Designers group on Ravelry, as well. I do have a couple of ideas for how to approach it, but you might get more specific advice from people who regularly design raglans in graded sizes from the Designers group.
I have a few raglan patterns where the wearer complains the neckline is too big and want it fitted more like a crew neck t shirt. I understand how short rows in the back can improve the fit, but that will just make a large neckline sit even lower in the front. How do you figure out how to cast on for a top down raglan so the neckline is the size you want?
Yes, that would be a good way to do it. You can do that with other styles of sweaters, as well: use the dimensions and stitch counts in one size that fits your back, and another size that fits your front, making some adjustments so that the shoulders fit, and to shape/fit the sleeve into the armhole.
@@RoxanneRichardson That is a lot of counting, math is not my stenght, so for now, i wear sweater with a lot of ease. 😉 But nice to know it is possible.
My question is about how to modify a sweater pattern for a larger bottom half than top so that the top isn't billowing. Unfortunately we don't all have your perfect form.
I love your work and want to make the man's sweater. I tried to click on link, but system gave me a warning ⚠️. is there a pattern? I'm not that good to make it up.
Excellent! About to start my 2nd sweater, a raglan, and I know the sleeves (per diagram) are too small. However, 2 sizes larger, indicates they will fit perfectly. Do I simply add the larger sized number of stiches at underarms, and pick up for the larger sized? Is it REALLY that easy? I can't seem to find an answer anywhere on exactly what to do. Please let me know what you think.
I imagine that the armhole depth is deeper for the larger size. If the issue is sleeve circumference, and not armhole depth, then you'll need to change the increase rate for the sleeves (which means you will do increases more frequently for the sleeves than for the body.
Thank you SO much! I just wasn't sure how to tackle this. It's the first time for me on both knitting a raglan and having to modify the circumference of a raglan sleeve! This should work.@@RoxanneRichardson
I did a unisex raglan top down joined after finish v neck , and it looked terrible on My partner (male) in the front!!! It is really conplicated to have a Nice fit in man the back , the front ,the sleeves and the underarm área. I Lost the battle😢 ( because i wanted to make it top down v neck and joined in the round) I think i Will make it bottom up😢 to get a better fit😢 PD. Ialso looked at other male patterns top dpwn v neck joined ik the round, and they don't look with a good fit. Something is ALWAYS ALWAYS messy in the underarm area (body and sleeves) 😢 I am not that brave to knit a set in sleeves😢😢😢
I love the look of raglan’s but raglan cardigans always slip off my shoulders. Is this due to a lack of fabric on the back of the shoulders? How would one go about adjusting for this?
A sweater slides down your arms when there is nothing to hold it on your shoulders. If the neck opening is too wide, if there is nothing to provide structure to the back of the neck and shoulders (a bind off edge across the neck and seams across the shoulders), if the yarn has a lot of drape (superwash), if the yarn is heavy, etc., then there is nothing to support the weight of the fabric. Narrow, sloped shoulders can also create a challenge. A yarn that is not super-wash (woolen spun would be a good choice, rather than worsted spun, as worsted spun is heavier per yard and has more drape, while woolen spun will hold itself up a bit better), a neck that is not too wide and which has some structure to prevent spread, and a gauge that is not worked too loosely for the yarn weight.
Thanks Roxanne, luv the didi examples, I am new to your channel, just started a cardy after 30 years', started the sleeve and am stuck? It is a fit in sleeve can you help,? No 10 needles cast on 56 I did 12 row double rib, changed to 8. It says Inc. row K (1) *Inc., (2) repeat from * until (1) st. remains, k (1) - 74 stitches. Next row all p. Have tried every which way but don't understand this, please help luv n light x
Hi Summer! I'm always happy to answer project questions in my Ravelry group. There's always a link near the bottom of the video description. Start a new discussion thread and ask your question there. Someone will likely be able to answer your question, if I don't get to it first.
This series is giving me so much more confidence to actually make sweaters and cardigans. I do have a question though. I am knitting a pattern where it says "continue until the length is x cms." but the thing is, because it's getting heavier now, the length is different laying flat versus when it's hanging. Which measurement should I be taking at this stage, the flat, unstretched one, or the actual length that it would be when worn? The pattern doesn't clarify.
Any sweater type can be knit flat and seamed, or seamless. Any sweater type can be knit top down or bottom up. A given pattern will be presented in a specific combination of direction and seamed/seamless, but any style can be designed and knit in any of those ways.
I swear you’re a psychic at how your uploads are so relevant to what I’m currently working on!
Love your downsized mannequin and your teeny tiny sweater examples. The additions to your video really helps clarify the different sweater styles. I'm finding this series really helpful,
love that!
You help folks understand the process so they can develop their own recipes for sweaters, well done. Clear & informative.
Great explanations! I would love to see some examples of how different raglan shapings fit different body types.
Roxanne this video is a revelation to me. I really appreciate the explanation and reasoning behind the choices if a garment is knit all in one piece vs knitting each piece separately. Light bulb 💡 moment. Wow! So many factors. Thank you!
I am so glad I found your channel . I have a ribber and a punch machine . Now I can truly understand sweater construction. Everyone is talking so fast . I can keep up with you ❤🙏
Thanks Rox, very helpful! I would love to know how to adjust the front of a topdown raglan for people with a big bosom.
13:42 getting ready to try making my first raglan sweater. The vanilla sweater kit. I'm sure I will watch your videos alot!!!! Will keep you posted on trials, and tribulations. Lol.
Jean
Thank you, thank you! Previously, I have only knit top down raglan sweaters for my young grandchildren. They fit fine. Now, I am starting on a bottom up raglan for my husband. It is a very different beast. Your video helped tremendously and certainly gives the big picture of what is planned for the yoke. I was clueless. Since my row gauge is off I will be watching your shaping video next. I believe that the sleeves need som shaping changes because he is muscular. I have been searching all over the internet. You are explaining exactly what I need. Thank you again!🙏
This was very helpful. I'm starting a raglan sweater this fall. I love the tiny sweaters.
Such much to learn about raglan sweater shape. Thank you such much for this instructions.❤
Thank you for this video and series. I JUST (this morning) finished a top-down raglan cardigan, about the 6th time I've made one. However, I never can seem to understand how to modify the typical pattern for my own shape, which is heavy/large upper arms, with a not very busty or wide chest/shoulders. It's my big arms that I can't seem to figure out mods, and I don't like form-fitted/tight-armed sweaters. If I just keep going on a normal raglan, I have to knit several extra rows to get enough stitches to get around my arms, and by that point, the armpit hangs really low. If I increase, say, every row instead of every other, just in the sleeves, it balloons out. If I pick up more stitches in the underarm than the pattern calls for, sometimes that works but it seems bunched up compared to the armpits/body. Would an option be to cast on a few more stitches, say 3-4 on a worsted-weight/DK weight for the sleeves? That'd give me a bit of an extra inch or so on the very top, and then maybe pick up 3-4 more stitches when I start the sleeves? Or stop increasing on the front piece while continuing to increase on the sleeves? Sorry for the long read, I was just obsessing about this issue this morning, and here comes your video, which got my brain going again. Argh. Big arms, not so big chest, back, and shoulders. I can't seem to find resources that help remedy this.
This is really interesting.
Do you mean cast on more at the neck when you're starting? Then you'd end up with a slightly bigger neck, but I think it would work very well. You could knit more neck ribbing to compensate when finishing.
Or you could increase a couple times at the top of the shoulder, like two increases per sleeve on one round near the beginning or around where the shoulder curves.
I hope you try your idea and report back!
@@delalangosta Thank you for those ideas! Yes, casting on more stitches in the beginning in the shoulder/arm sections would make the neck bigger, you're right. Hmmm...I did just start a new sweater using bulky Lopi yarn and while I'm not too concerned about this fit (I want it big and warm like a sweatshirt), what I've been doing is regular increases for the first few increase rounds (on all sections per normal), and then I'm continuing to increase on the arms (so, increasing every other round there) but only increase every other increase round (so every 4th round) in the back/front. I'm hoping that will reduce some of the body bulk while providing enough arm inches. Your idea on increasing twice on some of the shoulder-curve section is a good one too! I just feel I use a size larger than I normally would, only to get the correct arm fit...and then the body bulks up in the underarm. So now I'm trying new things, and I'll keep your ideas for my next sweater. Thank you!
Hi Roxanne. Very informative video. This series is so interesting! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. 💕
The tiny mannequin and model sweaters are so helpful! One day I will brave a sweater project. I hope 😂
thank you for knitting mini sweaters. It is very helpful
I love the mini mannequin! I was going to get a Barbie to use for smaller samples lol
Thanks. Your explanations are very clear
Thank you so much for this video! I'm currently designing a raglan sweater for my daughter and this is very helpful. I do have a question about fit issues. If I'm making a sweater for someone whose waist is bigger than their chest, how do you add the extra room to the body of the sweater to accommodate the tummy? Is it as simple as increasing near the waist to add extra stitches the front of the sweater, or is it something more complex like short rows or darts? If it is the latter how do you approach setting these up if you have the measurements of the intended wearer? I'm pretty comfortable making a sweater from a formula, but this particular fit issue is something I don't know how to approach.
This is brilliant!!! Thank you.😍
Just let me know if there is a better venue for this kind of question.
Thanks so much for this info - such great timing! I have done a couple of raglan sweaters, with short rows in the back. I'm working on a top-down raglan pattern that has you doing the raglan increases and short rows at the same time on both sides of the work:
"Short Row 1 (RS): K to marker, SLM, M1L, K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, W&T.
Short Row 2 (WS): P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, W&T.
Short Row 3 (RS): K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, K to marker, M1R, SLM, K to marker, SLM, M1L, K 1 st past previous turn, picking up wrap along the way, W&T.
Short Row 4 (WS): P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P to marker, M1R, SLM, P to marker, SLM, M1L, P 1 st past previous turn, picking up wrap along the way, W&T.
Work Short Rows 3&4 until you have worked a total of 18 short rows.
After the final turn, work to return to the original start of the round as follows: K to marker, M1R, SLM."
I've been practicing M1L and M1R on the purl side (WS) and I've been practicing wrap and turn. But when I try to do all of these instructions at the same time, it's a mess.
I've experimented with doing German short rows (instead of W&T) and KFB on both sides of the work just to see if it would be shaped correctly (but maybe not pretty) to see if i can get a handle on what it should look like. This experiement created a crazy vase of knitting.
I looked at your video on substituting German short rows for other short rows, but I couldn't figure out where the turn would be (since the pattern calls for increasing on both sides of the work).
Is thre a wya to only do increases on the right side of the work?
Thanks so much for all the work to you!
I would suggest starting a new discussion thread in my Ravelry group. You'll get lots of help, and it's much easier for others to learn from the questions/answers that way, as well. There is always a link to my Ravelry group in the video description.
Thanks for this video. I really want to design that raglan sweater for myself :-)
1. Some tips, tricks and/or book suggestions for top down knitting would be helpful 🙏
2. Tutorial on the crochet technique you mentioned for beefing up the stability of the ‘seams’ on a raglan sweater, please.
3. Any aids with winter approaching to help with knitting in the dark, keeping track of rows for any patterns, etc? I live in Alaska 💕🧶🏔️🙋🏻♀️
There are book suggestions listed in the video descriptions of the introduction to this series, as well as in the description of least on other (I think the one on set in sleeves). The tutorial for the slip stitch technique should be in the video description of this video.
I’ve been a subscriber for about 2 years now. The videos you and Suzanne Bryan have made essentially taught me to knit. I just completed my first seamless sweater. The result is everything I could have hoped for, but I want my knitware to last longer. Going forward, I want to focus on seamed designs. I purchased Amy Herzog’s book, “Ultimate Sweater Book”, but it only devoted 4 pages to seamed raglans. Aspects of the design are only vaguely discussed.
Googling a more in-depth book has given no results. I see nothing but “top down seamless” descriptions for all sweater constructions!
I see so many books behind you in your videos, do you know of any book that may give a more detailed explanation of seamed raglan design and construction? I’d appreciate any recommendations! I’m interested in seamed set-in-sleeve books as well.
Do seamed knitwear last longer than seamless ones?
Hi. A quick Ravelry search indicates that Pat Menchini is a designer who make many seamed raglan sweater patterns. May be you can ask her about this topic.
Great episode!
I would like this 50’s pattern for the collar
.
There's a link in the video description to my Ravelry page for that project. From the project page, there's a link to the pattern page. The pattern page indicates the source, which is a Patons & Baldwin booklet published in the 1950s. I got my copy used. You can likely find a used copy somewhere online.
Thank you
I still have problems with all my knitting projects 😅 but raglan is something I avoid at all costs, even if I want to make some raglan sweaters.
My shoulders are quite broad and the few raglan sweaters I have (bought or made) are pulling down on my arm in a weird way.
I love your videos! They are professionally produced and full of great techniques. I have had issues working top-down raglan sweaters. I have a 40” bust but am otherwise smaller. To get the chest measurement I need, I end up knitting a larger size, so by the time I knit the rows I need to go around my bust, the yoke is too long and the sleeves are way too big. Unfortunately, I can’t tell this is the case until it’s too late. The sweaters I have made that actually fit me are knit bottom up in pieces and seamed. Then I can compare each piece to the schematic and make sure that the length of each piece from the armpit up is correct. Would it be possible to knit the back and sleeves of a sweater in a Medium size and the front in a Large? I can’t see a way to do that, since both width and length change with size.
You'll want the length of the front and back to be the same to the armhole, but the shaping rate for the front will be different for the back, so that you'll have the stitch count you need. Figure out how many sts you need to increase for the back over the number of rows you need to get to the deisred armhole depth. You will need that same number of rows for the front, but you will work increases more often, in order to end up with the correct stitch count for your bust.
Great video thank you 😊
Oh,boy. And yikes. Am nearly done with my first sweater. A bottom up up raglan in the round (stash dive raglan) holding a worsted + fingering. Its a heavy sweater. Sleeves knitted & attached. Currently am Nearly at the neckline. Pattern doesn't have any short row shaping for the back. When would i need to incorporate that? Also, you mentioned crocheting along the seams. Pattern has paired decreases from sleeve join to neck, no actual 'sewn seams' because of the weight, should i consider adding a crocheted slip stitch? Or perhaps that would not be possible with this type of construction.
Wow, so much more to consider then what's in the pattern.
Thank you for all your podcasts. Its very kind of you to share so much wisdom.♡
The book CocoKnits has a good work chart for managing different increases on each of the different pieces - front, sleeves, back.
I can’t seem to get the hang of that book. Been knitting sweaters. Any suggestions on a blog or other RUclips video that helps me to understand Coco knits process?
🤦🏻♀️ thanks in advance 😊😂
@@elizabeth4053 there are a few cocoknits tutorials on youtube but I haven't tried any. I don't use the yoke method described in cocoknits, but I have adapted the worksheet for plotting the increases for raglan sleeved jumpers and cardigans. I've found the worksheet especially useful for managing the sorts of fit issues that Roxanne is talking about in the video, especially varying the increases on the sleeves from those on the front and back (otherwise I end up with too much fabric under the arms), and for designing and incorporating increases for necklines. Good luck 😊
I’m a Norwegian knitwear designer, and I recently discovered your RUclips channel, and I’m already a big fan! 🤩
It is incredibly educational, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I have seen the series about sweater design and there are an incredible number of great tips. I am now going to design my first men's raglan sweater, and I was wondering if you have any tips on where I can find raglan measurements in the different men's sizes. I have made myself a template/schematic with measurements for babies, children and for women, including raglan measurements, so that I can grade my pattern in all the sizes. But I have not been able to find raglan measurements for men. I will be very thankful if you have any advice on where I can find this. It doesn't matter if it's cm or inch, I can convert the numbers anyway. 😃
This is a great question. I would suggest posting it in my Ravelry group, where others could learn from the question/answers. Or you might consider asking in the Designers group on Ravelry, as well. I do have a couple of ideas for how to approach it, but you might get more specific advice from people who regularly design raglans in graded sizes from the Designers group.
I didn't think of that, but I will ask on Ravelry. 👍🏻 Thank you! 😃
Please talk about how to take measurements for raglan sweaters
I have a few raglan patterns where the wearer complains the neckline is too big and want it fitted more like a crew neck t shirt. I understand how short rows in the back can improve the fit, but that will just make a large neckline sit even lower in the front. How do you figure out how to cast on for a top down raglan so the neckline is the size you want?
Thanks again for you very clear explanations. I wonder if we could make a different raglan front and back to accomodate a bigger chest.
Yes, that would be a good way to do it. You can do that with other styles of sweaters, as well: use the dimensions and stitch counts in one size that fits your back, and another size that fits your front, making some adjustments so that the shoulders fit, and to shape/fit the sleeve into the armhole.
@@RoxanneRichardson That is a lot of counting, math is not my stenght, so for now, i wear sweater with a lot of ease. 😉 But nice to know it is possible.
My question is about how to modify a sweater pattern for a larger bottom half than top so that the top isn't billowing. Unfortunately we don't all have your perfect form.
Can you please make a video about compound raglan?
Great video. I'm a beginner knitter. Do you seam on the purl side or the knit side? Thanks!
You seam from the right side (public side) of the work, regardless of whether those sts on the RS are knits or purls (or both)
Time to knit
Hello Rox, do you have a good learners pattern you could recommend for each sweater you are covering?
I love your work and want to make the man's sweater. I tried to click on link, but system gave me a warning ⚠️. is there a pattern? I'm not that good to make it up.
Excellent! About to start my 2nd sweater, a raglan, and I know the sleeves (per diagram) are too small. However, 2 sizes larger, indicates they will fit perfectly. Do I simply add the larger sized number of stiches at underarms, and pick up for the larger sized? Is it REALLY that easy? I can't seem to find an answer anywhere on exactly what to do. Please let me know what you think.
I imagine that the armhole depth is deeper for the larger size. If the issue is sleeve circumference, and not armhole depth, then you'll need to change the increase rate for the sleeves (which means you will do increases more frequently for the sleeves than for the body.
Thank you SO much! I just wasn't sure how to tackle this. It's the first time for me on both knitting a raglan and having to modify the circumference of a raglan sleeve! This should work.@@RoxanneRichardson
I did a unisex raglan top down joined after finish v neck , and it looked terrible on My partner (male) in the front!!!
It is really conplicated to have a Nice fit in man the back , the front ,the sleeves and the underarm área.
I Lost the battle😢 ( because i wanted to make it top down v neck and joined in the round)
I think i Will make it bottom up😢 to get a better fit😢
PD. Ialso looked at other male patterns top dpwn v neck joined ik the round, and they don't look with a good fit. Something is ALWAYS ALWAYS messy in the underarm area (body and sleeves) 😢
I am not that brave to knit a set in sleeves😢😢😢
Hello Roxanne, what brand/brands of needles do you use please as yours always seem to have lovely fine points to them? Thank you.
If they are colored tips with a black cable, then those are Signature Needle Arts circulars.
I love the look of raglan’s but raglan cardigans always slip off my shoulders. Is this due to a lack of fabric on the back of the shoulders? How would one go about adjusting for this?
A sweater slides down your arms when there is nothing to hold it on your shoulders. If the neck opening is too wide, if there is nothing to provide structure to the back of the neck and shoulders (a bind off edge across the neck and seams across the shoulders), if the yarn has a lot of drape (superwash), if the yarn is heavy, etc., then there is nothing to support the weight of the fabric. Narrow, sloped shoulders can also create a challenge. A yarn that is not super-wash (woolen spun would be a good choice, rather than worsted spun, as worsted spun is heavier per yard and has more drape, while woolen spun will hold itself up a bit better), a neck that is not too wide and which has some structure to prevent spread, and a gauge that is not worked too loosely for the yarn weight.
Thanks Roxanne, luv the didi examples, I am new to your channel, just started a cardy after 30 years', started the sleeve and am stuck? It is a fit in sleeve can you help,? No 10 needles cast on 56 I did 12 row double rib, changed to 8. It says Inc. row K (1) *Inc., (2) repeat from * until (1) st. remains, k (1) - 74 stitches. Next row all p. Have tried every which way but don't understand this, please help luv n light x
Hi Summer! I'm always happy to answer project questions in my Ravelry group. There's always a link near the bottom of the video description. Start a new discussion thread and ask your question there. Someone will likely be able to answer your question, if I don't get to it first.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much Roxanne for your prompt reply, I will do this, I have been scratching my head for over 1 week on this! x
This series is giving me so much more confidence to actually make sweaters and cardigans. I do have a question though. I am knitting a pattern where it says "continue until the length is x cms." but the thing is, because it's getting heavier now, the length is different laying flat versus when it's hanging. Which measurement should I be taking at this stage, the flat, unstretched one, or the actual length that it would be when worn? The pattern doesn't clarify.
Hi, I would take the measurements while hanging as this is the "natural" state of the garment when you will worn it.
@@Richard_Szobi Thank you for your feedback. That's what I was thinking too.
Can you make these sweaters with straight needles too?
Any sweater type can be knit flat and seamed, or seamless. Any sweater type can be knit top down or bottom up. A given pattern will be presented in a specific combination of direction and seamed/seamless, but any style can be designed and knit in any of those ways.