A clue around 24:26 as to what is going wrong: the heel of the tool is rubbing big time on the part where the cut curves past it - that is, you need more relief on the heel of the tool where it is rubbing and preventing smooth entry into the cut. I've experienced this and after grinding off the heel to provide clearance, I was able to achieve a smooth, chatter-free cut in cast iron on my Sidney 14 lathe
Trepanninig is a really special operation. We used to repair the Polar class Ice breakers here in Seattle, those had 3 propeller shafts. The 2 wing shafts are 90' long and weigh 90 tons, and they are hollow! I always wished I could have seen that operation!
17:37 As that face got whittled down it sure reminded me of the CASE Eagle Globe thing (I'm sure there is a proper name). I can't place the casting hardware... but I know you save somebody a pile of cash.
Aww, I was hoping to see the end of the parting-off op to see how you held the ring from flying off like the last one. I was thinking maybe super-gluing some kind of baker plate on the front, but not sure if that would hold up. Well, apparently you survived, so it must have worked out fine and you got 'er done.
Brian there was an English guy in Sheffield that did production trepanning. the equipment is highly modified lathes turning a hollow tube cutter. Cannot find the channel. He went to seed in Thailand.
I wondered what Dave had been up to. I figured he finally retired to the pub for good. Those were a special kimd of setup he had. They worked the treat but not terribly practical for one offs.
Ive used tools like that before. I believe those are Manchester brand. I always feel that those are just too wide and always cause chatter. I seem to have better luck with a hand ground high speed tool. You have to kind of grind them to match the diameter that you are cutting. Something else that I have used is a holesaw for cutting something like that if you dont have to cut too deep. Just mount it in the tailstock without the 1/4" pilot drill and back it out every so often to clean out the chips.
Great work Brian!!! I understand why you didn't see the tool overheating from your vantage point 10 yards away... I apologize for my lack of knowledge, but It would be great to know the model of the John Deere this part was attached to and if it is no longer available or too costly...
It costs like a 1/4 for me to mod one versus a new one. Same basic part fits all the 9000series 4wd I believe. I think 3 different part numbers cover the 9200-9630 they are all made similar even though there are different versions.
I was turning some brakes and flywheels, couldn't keep a carbide bit happy, decided to try some CBN inserts and they worked real nice, left a nice finish and never chattered
Well done Brian was not purity be useful in the end and that is what counts. Would turning the tool upside down and cutting on the back side of the part have helped with the chatter? Thanks
couldnt click on the notification for a bcbloc02 trepan video fast enough... that didnt look like alot of fun to make.... btw, arent we due for a "this old barn/shop update" ?
Hey brian! you probably know this well enough, but if something solid like that is screaming keep lowering your rpm and play with the feeds You dont win them all but it usually works. definitely get the toolpost issues sorted aswell :)
Love those big Monarch lathes. There's a company thit made things to last forever. Not one thing now is made to last , now its made to self destruct within seven years.
Actually, there is a good business model of taking that old iron, fitting ball screws and a modern CNC. I used to do that for a while. The iron has had all it's stresses released over the decades and so with just a good scrape of the ways, great results.
Idk about all that, there's plenty of machine tool makers that still build machines that last forever. You aren't going to kill a Skoda made today in my lifetime for example.
Great job bri Trepanning always seems like a good idea till your halfway into the job You finally get it cutting alright and bang the tools gone all the while your thinking I should’ve just drilled and bored it 😂
Brian, at 21:37 I could see the tool drop down a 1/16". That is where your chatter is coming from. You need to look into that my friend. Art from Ohio PS: The tool holder dropped at 24:31 Don't look at the cutting tip, look at the vtool holder - it drops significantly. There is something spongy in the entire tool post.
It was a lack of clamping on the tool. It rotated in the toolholder. That was a result of earlier when I said about all the voilations of machinist handbook. I had cheated and twisted the tool to get it to clear the groove. This tool was probably made to trepan 4-6" diameter and I was using it at 10" so the radius of the supporting part was wrong. So it was the wrong tool for the job but the only one I had so.....
I usually make my own tool for the diameter. It’s not as hard as it seems. For small diameters I use a Fordom with a small wheel for the inside and for large ones, an angle grinder. Admittedly, I’ve never cut more than around three inches deep.
Hey Brian,quick question, why is the tool post stem so short,(very few threads) holding it on.This could be some of your harmonic chatter. Great videos like you I have Monarch lathes. I also have a CBB 18 inch Monarch. Oh and my Lawn tractor J D 430.
Bolt is too short because that is what Aloris supplied for the job. I tried to get a hold of them to see about getting one longer but after wasting a few hours on various calls and mostly getting the cuz Covid run around I gave up. Someday I will just have to make my own to the proper dimensions. Bolt is torqued at over 500ftlbs so I don’t think it being a little short makes much difference
So part of the chatter was the tool rubbing against the material because of the size of the tool to big for the arc of the diameter? Sometimes friction is not your friend 😊. AL B.
@@bcbloc02, I figured you used your crane for that but that’s even heavier than I thought, it just looked heavy. Gotta watch your toes with something like that.
Wow, do you think it may have been less chattery if you ran it slower? You know far more about it than I do but it seemed that outside radius of that part was running a bit fast for that procedure. You got er done though.
I tried various speeds from 10 to 200rpm. I think the broad cutting edge combined with too much tool stick out just made it not happy. In regular cast it might have run like butter but this ductile cuts harder.
What happens is that the tool (holder and everything else) drops a few thousand. And then can’t drop more because of the strength limits and so springs back up. This is repeated constantly and so results in chatter. In theory, that can be calculated, as they do in industry, but for individual shops it’s practically impossible. You just have to have an iterative process mediated by experience.
@@bcbloc02 Yeah I figured you probably tried everything but boy oh boy I sure would have been standing 10 feet away myself. Glad you did because I was sweating it right along with you and thought you were right there until you told us you were backed away. LOL great video bud.
Brian, I'm not a machinist so I'm going to ask a couple of silly questions. 1. would things gone a little quieter if the trepanning tool had a curved face, say like a small carbide button? 2. Is there any reason not to run some sort of coolant when cutting cast?
A curved face to the cutting edge/insert would result in more surface contact between the cutting edge and the blank. This will usually cause more chatter. Cast iron is of a granular nature, use of coolant creates a sludge type medium which due to the inherent abrasive properties of cast can actually cause premature wear to the cutting edge, added to this cast has a high carbon content which acts as a natural lubricant when machining. This is a very simplified explanation but hope it answers your question.
@@bcbloc02 What was the problem to show us how you fit it in? That would show me if you did anything at all...picture is worth thousand words, and a video does not even need words. And maaaan, this is you tube...here you can show it all...that is unless you want to hide somethnig.
Every time I hear you say “phase converter” I wonder, with the size of machines you have, why you haven’t gotten three phase installed. I’ve seen many of your videos, but not all, so you may have already addressed this question, but it bugs me.
It has been addressed many times particularly back during the building of the barn shop series but power company quoted $100k to run 3 phase the mile to me and that was back like y2k it would probably be a quarter million in today’s money. I am the last customer on the line so the only person the power company can ever recoup on is me so they have no interest.
Like riding a rollercoaster, had to stay glued to the end to make sure the ride ended safely (@@)! Must say, even though it made me nervous, knew the operator had every thing under control :-)! I have an up coming project that Trepanning will be the way to go to keep from wasting a large amount of 7075 alum. Have a 4x4x8in block that requires a 3.250 in boro 7.500 deep. Being alum, will be nothing like this, but material waste is a sin (@@)! Thx Brian for sharing, Bear.
Being Aluminium can be a bigger problem if you don't keep coolant flow to remove the waste, and if you get an aluminum that won't chip but make long strings, it's going to be very challenging. Cat iron at least comes off as fine chips which you can flush out fairly easily. Another commenter has mentioned David Wilks in the UK who specialises in trapanning, like 3 metre long pieces and big diameters, and has a massive coolant flow primarily for chip removal.
The first time I know trepanning was done was well before the Pyramids. That's because they found skulls with those cuts. No doubt smart guys like you used it for all sorts of reasons. It will be with us for another 10,000 years. What was that thing anyway?
Trepanning, also known as trepanation, trephination, trephining or making a burr hole, is a surgical intervention in which a hole is drilled or scraped into the human skull.
@@strykerjones8842 The Greek trúpanon gave us the Latin trepanum which gives us the French trepan - meaning a tool to bore, an auger. Originally applied to bore into rock, the medical application naming came much later.
Lack of rigidity on your toolpost is your enemy there, it is vibrating like a jack hammer. The only, and best way to trepann is to make a tubular boring tool,mounted from the tailstock, it has the full circumference to support the cutting tool.
Having TWO cutters, one up and one upside down, positioned on the face of the tube, which itself is mounted on a powered tailstock is the way to go! Hole clearance of the tube is for the produced result of all that effort trepanning!
Hard to justify building a fixed size cutter two make 2 parts. The time and tooling would cost more than the material saved. Might as well just saw it off and blow the center out with a plasma and clean it up.
Just like the everyday hole saw that you pop in your drill. You are right, take a suitable piece of pipe, weld up on end, weld in about 7 bits of high speed steel. Anneal and cut to size and cut the tool sections for rake and such. Harden and away you go. About a 2 hour job. The nice thing is that you then have a tool that you can use to cut the slots to get room for a boring bar to do the finish cuts. When you have down time in the shop, make up a set in the size ranges you think you may need. For that matter, you might be able to make them to use small inserts, like the ones that are used on mini lathes. Make a drum that then takes holders that screw into the drum with a screw from the outside. The inserts are wider than the drum. All clearances are reasonably easy to set.
@@oldfarthacks Where does one readily find 10" iron pipe? As the shop is my 3rd full time job I rather struggle with finding time to work on building tooling which is sad because I usually enjoy doing it.
@@bcbloc02 I have some centrifigally cast ductile iron tubing around here. I live in Salem Ohio and there is a company called Quaker city castings and they make ductile iron tubing like that. They use it to make sleeves for pulling tractors under the name, powerbore sleeves and also they make the rings that are cast into pistons that surrounds the top ring. Im not sure they make it that big. We have a lot of iron tubing at work but Im not sure if its grey iron or ductile iron. You could just make a wooden pattern and have some cast. We make brake wheels at work for cranes at work and sometimes we make 23" dia. ones from billet ductile iron. We machine out the one side all into chips and if there was a way to get the chunk out it would be way bigger than the piece you have there in the chuck.
I watch quite a few machinists .. and trepaning certainlt seems like a unique skill that not many use on a regular basis.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
A clue around 24:26 as to what is going wrong: the heel of the tool is rubbing big time on the part where the cut curves past it - that is, you need more relief on the heel of the tool where it is rubbing and preventing smooth entry into the cut. I've experienced this and after grinding off the heel to provide clearance, I was able to achieve a smooth, chatter-free cut in cast iron on my Sidney 14 lathe
David Wilks found him. He had videos on how to make the tooling also. I think Sandvik makes the cutters
I watched his channel as well.
yup, I heard he got let go from the place that bought his machines when he sold his business
miss his videos quite a bit
@@486kyle awe man that bites. He was really great at what he did.
Thanks that I'll be BACK.. tomorrow
Nice job Brian!!!
Love watching large parts being machined by a pro!
With Cast iron I use a negative rake tool and parting and Trepan below centre slightly.
Great job Brian. You are keeping your part of America Rolling.
You're good Brian, there's no two ways about it.
👍👍right on feller...looks good...have a good day man👊
Mighty hefty cut. I saw how fast it started feeding in and started looking for the "oh shit" button lol. Glad to see you made it work :)
Trepanninig is a really special operation. We used to repair the Polar class Ice breakers here in Seattle, those had 3 propeller shafts. The 2 wing shafts are 90' long and weigh 90 tons, and they are hollow! I always wished I could have seen that operation!
17:37 As that face got whittled down it sure reminded me of the CASE Eagle Globe thing (I'm sure there is a proper name).
I can't place the casting hardware... but I know you save somebody a pile of cash.
As usual you gotter did. I hope you are enjoying all of that big machinery. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Aww, I was hoping to see the end of the parting-off op to see how you held the ring from flying off like the last one. I was thinking maybe super-gluing some kind of baker plate on the front, but not sure if that would hold up. Well, apparently you survived, so it must have worked out fine and you got 'er done.
The finish op was parting off into the trepaned groove so nothing to get pinched the ring just laid right down on the stub no issues.
man that big ass lathe can really do some work !!!!!!!!!!!! great job brian !!!!!!!!
Brian there was an English guy in Sheffield that did production trepanning. the equipment is highly modified lathes turning a hollow tube cutter. Cannot find the channel. He went to seed in Thailand.
It was Dave Wilks. @userwl2850
I wondered what Dave had been up to. I figured he finally retired to the pub for good. Those were a special kimd of setup he had. They worked the treat but not terribly practical for one offs.
24:30 Yeah, that tool holder was looking a little warm...!
Hard to argue with success!!!
Hello Brian! Viewer Fan here!!! Well done you can do it!!!!
Nice job Brian Glad to see it worked out for you!
at the 6:10 mark ,the steel blank in the chuck looks like a word globe.
Ive used tools like that before. I believe those are Manchester brand. I always feel that those are just too wide and always cause chatter. I seem to have better luck with a hand ground high speed tool. You have to kind of grind them to match the diameter that you are cutting. Something else that I have used is a holesaw for cutting something like that if you dont have to cut too deep. Just mount it in the tailstock without the 1/4" pilot drill and back it out every so often to clean out the chips.
Never argue with a machinist 😂
They know everything...
You did it, nice job Brian.
love this Brian......cheers from Florida, Paul
Great work Brian!!!
I understand why you didn't see the tool overheating from your vantage point 10 yards away...
I apologize for my lack of knowledge, but It would be great to know the model of the John Deere this part was attached to and if it is no longer available or too costly...
It costs like a 1/4 for me to mod one versus a new one. Same basic part fits all the 9000series 4wd I believe. I think 3 different part numbers cover the 9200-9630 they are all made similar even though there are different versions.
Yeah being left of the tool post I could not see down in the slot at all.
You do know why Deere equipment is painted green? It's so when it breaks you can hide it in the bushes.
@@oldfarthacks🤣🤣🤣
Looking Good... How long did the whole jobe take?
Working time or real time?
A good sound track for think would be “Thriller”, kept me on the edge of my chair. Imagine that, a machine operation being exciting.
Nice video Brian . Thanks Kimber
Is ductile iron all that much different than cast steel? Cast steel is interesting stuff to turn, and even interestinger if there is weld involved!
I was turning some brakes and flywheels, couldn't keep a carbide bit happy, decided to try some CBN inserts and they worked real nice, left a nice finish and never chattered
Well done Brian was not purity be useful in the end and that is what counts. Would turning the tool upside down and cutting on the back side of the part have helped with the chatter? Thanks
Watching with fingers crossed!
Your tool seems well above centre height.
Nice work
couldnt click on the notification for a bcbloc02 trepan video fast enough... that didnt look like alot of fun to make.... btw, arent we due for a "this old barn/shop update" ?
The barn shop is a wreck. Underfunded and out of room. I am ashamed to show it I would probably loose the few subscribers I have left!
Some of us work in over crowded shops all the time. Every time I bring in a new tool I say something is going to have to leave but nothing does.
SUPERMAN!!…enjoyed
Nice work there.
Hey brian! you probably know this well enough, but if something solid like that is screaming keep lowering your rpm and play with the feeds
You dont win them all but it usually works. definitely get the toolpost issues sorted aswell :)
Love those big Monarch lathes. There's a company thit made things to last forever. Not one thing now is made to last , now its made to self destruct within seven years.
Would you pay the cost to buy a lathe today that was built to last 50+ years? It no longer makes any sense to anybody.
Actually, there is a good business model of taking that old iron, fitting ball screws and a modern CNC. I used to do that for a while. The iron has had all it's stresses released over the decades and so with just a good scrape of the ways, great results.
Idk about all that, there's plenty of machine tool makers that still build machines that last forever.
You aren't going to kill a Skoda made today in my lifetime for example.
Just a guess, could you be running with too much RPM? That's some bold machining.
Great job bri Trepanning always seems like a good idea till your halfway into the job You finally get it cutting alright and bang the tools gone all the while your thinking I should’ve just drilled and bored it 😂
Very nice work Brian.
I would say the Trepanning went pretty good.
Very nice final result.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Nice job!
Great job, I’ve had to sacrifice a tool or two, to machining gods. Thanks for sharing.
i wish a had a bigger lathe lol which is something i thought i would say, i like watching manual machinists its a dying art
good video brian
good job brother
Brian, at 21:37 I could see the tool drop down a 1/16". That is where your chatter is coming from. You need to look into that my friend.
Art from Ohio
PS: The tool holder dropped at 24:31 Don't look at the cutting tip, look at the vtool holder - it drops significantly. There is something spongy in the entire tool post.
It was a lack of clamping on the tool. It rotated in the toolholder. That was a result of earlier when I said about all the voilations of machinist handbook. I had cheated and twisted the tool to get it to clear the groove. This tool was probably made to trepan 4-6" diameter and I was using it at 10" so the radius of the supporting part was wrong. So it was the wrong tool for the job but the only one I had so.....
I usually make my own tool for the diameter. It’s not as hard as it seems. For small diameters I use a Fordom with a small wheel for the inside and for large ones, an angle grinder. Admittedly, I’ve never cut more than around three inches deep.
Your head is a good reference to how big the Monarch chuck really is 😅. Sorry this job fought you.
Hey Brian,quick question, why is the tool post stem so short,(very few threads) holding it on.This could be some of your harmonic chatter. Great videos like you I have Monarch lathes. I also have a CBB 18 inch Monarch. Oh and my Lawn tractor J D 430.
Bolt is too short because that is what Aloris supplied for the job. I tried to get a hold of them to see about getting one longer but after wasting a few hours on various calls and mostly getting the cuz Covid run around I gave up. Someday I will just have to make my own to the proper dimensions. Bolt is torqued at over 500ftlbs so I don’t think it being a little short makes much difference
So part of the chatter was the tool rubbing against the material because of the size of the tool to big for the arc of the diameter? Sometimes friction is not your friend 😊. AL B.
He had offset the tool upwards and around. It slipped out of position. This is why he was talking about violating 37.8736 machinists rules.
@@oldfarthacks Exactly!
Think you need a little longer stud on that tool post.
Maybe a thinner nut! Lol
Do you ad that in the cost of making the part
The old G@L is made for just this work.
Looks good Brian
Joe
Always impressive Brian, -------Doozer
wasn't that trepannig tool to wide, to much cutting force?
Glad to see even people with massive lathes get chatter sometimes. But why was the trepanning tool so wide (or may be that was just the one you had)?
It was the only one I had and it was not special purchased for this exact job. Just making do with the tools on hand.
I would have liked to see you wrestle that chunk of cast iron into the chuck, that had to be fun! Lol
At 400lbs handling that piece was a sling and hoist job. :-)
@@bcbloc02, I figured you used your crane for that but that’s even heavier than I thought, it just looked heavy. Gotta watch your toes with something like that.
So I know nothing about John Deere tractors. Where exactly does this party go? Is it part of the finals?
Wow, do you think it may have been less chattery if you ran it slower? You know far more about it than I do but it seemed that outside radius of that part was running a bit fast for that procedure. You got er done though.
I tried various speeds from 10 to 200rpm. I think the broad cutting edge combined with too much tool stick out just made it not happy. In regular cast it might have run like butter but this ductile cuts harder.
What happens is that the tool (holder and everything else) drops a few thousand. And then can’t drop more because of the strength limits and so springs back up. This is repeated constantly and so results in chatter. In theory, that can be calculated, as they do in industry, but for individual shops it’s practically impossible. You just have to have an iterative process mediated by experience.
@@bcbloc02 Yeah I figured you probably tried everything but boy oh boy I sure would have been standing 10 feet away myself. Glad you did because I was sweating it right along with you and thought you were right there until you told us you were backed away. LOL great video bud.
A-PLUS! Blessings!
Brian, I'm not a machinist so I'm going to ask a couple of silly questions. 1. would things gone a little quieter if the trepanning tool had a curved face, say like a small carbide button? 2. Is there any reason not to run some sort of coolant when cutting cast?
A curved face to the cutting edge/insert would result in more surface contact between the cutting edge and the blank. This will usually cause more chatter.
Cast iron is of a granular nature, use of coolant creates a sludge type medium which due to the inherent abrasive properties of cast can actually cause premature wear to the cutting edge, added to this cast has a high carbon content which acts as a natural lubricant when machining.
This is a very simplified explanation but hope it answers your question.
Very cool video
Too bad you can't get a pipe or tube close to that size.
Where did the carved piece go in the end?
It filled the bearing pocket and made it deeper on the side facing the mill.
@@bcbloc02 What was the problem to show us how you fit it in? That would show me if you did anything at all...picture is worth thousand words, and a video does not even need words. And maaaan, this is you tube...here you can show it all...that is unless you want to hide somethnig.
@@peta1001 this video was mainly about trepanning. The fitting and finish boring of that part was in another video.
Every time I hear you say “phase converter” I wonder, with the size of machines you have, why you haven’t gotten three phase installed. I’ve seen many of your videos, but not all, so you may have already addressed this question, but it bugs me.
It has been addressed many times particularly back during the building of the barn shop series but power company quoted $100k to run 3 phase the mile to me and that was back like y2k it would probably be a quarter million in today’s money. I am the last customer on the line so the only person the power company can ever recoup on is me so they have no interest.
@@bcbloc02 damn. Sorry about that. It’s really excessive.
Like riding a rollercoaster, had to stay glued to the end to make sure the ride ended safely (@@)! Must say, even though it made me nervous, knew the operator had every thing under control :-)! I have an up coming project that Trepanning will be the way to go to keep from wasting a large amount of 7075 alum. Have a 4x4x8in block that requires a 3.250 in boro 7.500 deep. Being alum, will be nothing like this, but material waste is a sin (@@)! Thx Brian for sharing, Bear.
Being Aluminium can be a bigger problem if you don't keep coolant flow to remove the waste, and if you get an aluminum that won't chip but make long strings, it's going to be very challenging. Cat iron at least comes off as fine chips which you can flush out fairly easily.
Another commenter has mentioned David Wilks in the UK who specialises in trapanning, like 3 metre long pieces and big diameters, and has a massive coolant flow primarily for chip removal.
How much is a new gudgeon casting?
About $13k I believe
What I know of trepanning is cutting a circular hole in the skull to relieve pressure on the brain. I guess this is different...
Just curious I assume you work for a John Deere Dealership and you fix these wild machining jobs on the side?
@@ShainAndrews ok, feel free to clarify
I'm here First.
This looks like a challenge Brian.👍
The first time I know trepanning was done was well before the Pyramids. That's because they found skulls with those cuts. No doubt smart guys like you used it for all sorts of reasons. It will be with us for another 10,000 years. What was that thing anyway?
You need mr wilks help
To fast turn the speed down
Wow all that chatter had me thinkin I hate end cutes
Trepanning, also known as trepanation, trephination, trephining or making a burr hole, is a surgical intervention in which a hole is drilled or scraped into the human skull.
Are you saying that Brian is using this word incorrectly, that trepanning isn’t the term used for this operation?
@@strykerjones8842 The Greek trúpanon gave us the Latin trepanum which gives us the French trepan - meaning a tool to bore, an auger. Originally applied to bore into rock, the medical application naming came much later.
@@kindabluejazz Yea I know that, my intention was to get this guy to say Brian was wrong. That way he could be properly corrected.
The start seem'd to go good and after that, not so.
Lack of rigidity on your toolpost is your enemy there, it is vibrating like a jack hammer. The only, and best way to trepann is to make a tubular boring tool,mounted from the tailstock, it has the full circumference to support the cutting tool.
Having TWO cutters, one up and one upside down, positioned on the face of the tube, which itself is mounted on a powered tailstock is the way to go! Hole clearance of the tube is for the produced result of all that effort trepanning!
Hard to justify building a fixed size cutter two make 2 parts. The time and tooling would cost more than the material saved. Might as well just saw it off and blow the center out with a plasma and clean it up.
Just like the everyday hole saw that you pop in your drill. You are right, take a suitable piece of pipe, weld up on end, weld in about 7 bits of high speed steel. Anneal and cut to size and cut the tool sections for rake and such. Harden and away you go. About a 2 hour job. The nice thing is that you then have a tool that you can use to cut the slots to get room for a boring bar to do the finish cuts.
When you have down time in the shop, make up a set in the size ranges you think you may need. For that matter, you might be able to make them to use small inserts, like the ones that are used on mini lathes. Make a drum that then takes holders that screw into the drum with a screw from the outside. The inserts are wider than the drum. All clearances are reasonably easy to set.
@@oldfarthacks Where does one readily find 10" iron pipe? As the shop is my 3rd full time job I rather struggle with finding time to work on building tooling which is sad because I usually enjoy doing it.
@@bcbloc02 I have some centrifigally cast ductile iron tubing around here. I live in Salem Ohio and there is a company called Quaker city castings and they make ductile iron tubing like that. They use it to make sleeves for pulling tractors under the name, powerbore sleeves and also they make the rings that are cast into pistons that surrounds the top ring. Im not sure they make it that big. We have a lot of iron tubing at work but Im not sure if its grey iron or ductile iron. You could just make a wooden pattern and have some cast. We make brake wheels at work for cranes at work and sometimes we make 23" dia. ones from billet ductile iron. We machine out the one side all into chips and if there was a way to get the chunk out it would be way bigger than the piece you have there in the chuck.
Vandalism :)
Brave !! 😀🥰