Nice work Brian. Not very many people could or would do that job. I always like seeing the Horizontal Boring Mill machining. Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
I enjoy the set-up and work piece holding very much Brian. Not many other people show dealing with things as large as the projects You present on Your channel. Thanks again and Best Wishes to You, Your Family and Friends.
Not bad Brian! I like it. I do a similar thing sometimes with my portable boring bar when I have to cantilever the bar in a series of bores that I cannot support from both sides or there is no room for a standard bearing support. Machine the close or outer bore and then turn a bearing to support the bar then machine the inner bore or bores. Occasionally even back boring to a shoulder. One must be creative when doing repairs and you sir seem to have no limit when it comes to creativity.
The old girl does it again. Love that machine. Scaled down by about ten times this set up could be used in a lot of places. Always learn something from your videos. Thanks Brian.
We bore holes like that on our g&l mills routinely without any support. We found the stiffest bar is one that fits right into the taper and is held in with a drive key. Sometimes we use hand ground high speed tool bits ground very sharp if chatter is a problem. We had one mill that wanted to chatter more than the others and took off the guard over the rear end of the spindle and snugged up the bearing a little. This made a huge difference.
@@TheJohndeere466 Your mills are probably in a lot better shape than mine. Anytime I am more than 10 l/d from the head I usually have chatter issues particularly in steel. Cast is more forgiving. A new spindle that eliminated the .0015 of play between the inner spindle and spindle sleeve would probably help a lot when the spindle is run out a foot or two.
@bcbloc02 ours are newer. They don't have the double spindle except for one of ours and it chatters very easily. Its a 5" mill but the table is small. Most of ours have a table with 9' travel. One has 10' travel and it has 50 taper rather than a #7 morse taper.
Hey Brian, I've donner thataway many times on much bigger stuff in the field when we couldn't just line bore. cheers to be able to do er in the shop. Happy Thanksgiving!
I was just thinking that, if the cutting tool was located maybe an inch or two (25-50 mm) from the end of the bar, you could even have a short bushing on the end, with the same OD as finished size, to support the last bit of the pull-through of the bar?? Maybe a snap ring to keep it in place, and you could lubricate the inside of the bushing, to allow it to free-run in the bore, since the bore finish might not be smooth enough to prevent the bushing from wearing down too quickly? Just a thought... (Very amateur machinist, but I have seen a lot of equipment designs in my career (
@@lohikarhu734 if you notice the big boring bar I was back boring with has a nose on it which is intended to be used either as you described or if you had a drilled hole you could pilot in it and let the boring tool follow the drill path.
I was using an old water heater but the element burns up about once a year running 24/7. I wanted to put a water to air heat pump in but the poor crops and the storm damage took that money So now I just have to wear more clothes and tough it out. At least I am inside these days. Back in the garage shop days I had to work outside in the winter.
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Nice work Brian.
Not very many people could or would do that job.
I always like seeing the Horizontal Boring Mill machining.
Have a great weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
Thanks for watching and have a great weekend as well!
I enjoy the set-up and work piece holding very much Brian. Not many other people show dealing with things as large as the projects You present on Your channel. Thanks again and Best Wishes to You, Your Family and Friends.
Nice to have that large table. Sure comes in handy for the big stuff.
It always makes me smile when I see that you’ve uploaded a video. Thank you for sharing your time.
@@kimber1958 Thanks Kimber!
Not bad Brian! I like it. I do a similar thing sometimes with my portable boring bar when I have to cantilever the bar in a series of bores that I cannot support from both sides or there is no room for a standard bearing support. Machine the close or outer bore and then turn a bearing to support the bar then machine the inner bore or bores. Occasionally even back boring to a shoulder. One must be creative when doing repairs and you sir seem to have no limit when it comes to creativity.
@@warrenjones744 Thanks. Yep sounds like you know how to get it done.😎
Another trick to put away in the grey matter! Have not seen anything of Steve summers hope he is ok .. thanks for taking us along .. hi from Australia
Hi from Northeastern Kentucky. Steve Summers posted a video today and explains why he’s been absent. I was wondering as well.
30:20 Enjoyed the before / after of the clean shave LOL. Thanks BB
😁
real slick idea Brian.
Nicely done Brian. Those frames should live through several bush jobs now if they are done on time. Thanks for sharing this repair.
Great job Brian. You are always thinking of and teaching us new methods. Saving old iron #1
The old girl does it again. Love that machine. Scaled down by about ten times this set up could be used in a lot of places. Always learn something from your videos.
Thanks Brian.
We bore holes like that on our g&l mills routinely without any support. We found the stiffest bar is one that fits right into the taper and is held in with a drive key. Sometimes we use hand ground high speed tool bits ground very sharp if chatter is a problem. We had one mill that wanted to chatter more than the others and took off the guard over the rear end of the spindle and snugged up the bearing a little. This made a huge difference.
@@TheJohndeere466 Your mills are probably in a lot better shape than mine. Anytime I am more than 10 l/d from the head I usually have chatter issues particularly in steel. Cast is more forgiving. A new spindle that eliminated the .0015 of play between the inner spindle and spindle sleeve would probably help a lot when the spindle is run out a foot or two.
@bcbloc02 ours are newer. They don't have the double spindle except for one of ours and it chatters very easily. Its a 5" mill but the table is small. Most of ours have a table with 9' travel. One has 10' travel and it has 50 taper rather than a #7 morse taper.
You certainly get creative with your set ups ! always interesting to watch. Thanks for sharing the job.
Good old American ingenuity to get a difficult job done. Thanks for sharing.
Right... because ingenuity is not the same if not americunt...
1st time seeing this for me... Every day can be a school day
Hey Brian, I've donner thataway many times on much bigger stuff in the field when we couldn't just line bore. cheers to be able to do er in the shop. Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for the tip Brian!! Hope you had a good Thanksgiving
👍👍👍.... looks like it worked well .. thanks for sharing feller 👍👍👊
Thank you Brian!
Nice work Brian!
Nice job Brian
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
very good job brian
Thanks!
Good one, also using the single point tool for centering. Thanks for sharing this!
Nicely done Brian. Worked out great.
Thanks Randy.
Nylatron is probably your bushings material
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Could you also do a similar thing with a 'steady rest' positioned between the two bores and supporting the boring bar? Nice trick though!
@@frednewman2162 yeah as long as there was room for it.
the might be the largest thing i have seen fixtured up on the G&L
@@turbocobra Certainly not the heaviest but it does take a lot of square feet.
We had jobs on ours that weighed 40,000 pounds.
nice
Is there a video on the Flow Bench or is one coming?
@@gordonborsboom7460 I think it has a bad blower motor so maybe when I tear into it I will do one.
A-PLUS and the grease'd help. Blessings
Greetings from Orlando Brian, Paulie
Keeping everything welded up down there?
I was just thinking that, if the cutting tool was located maybe an inch or two (25-50 mm) from the end of the bar, you could even have a short bushing on the end, with the same OD as finished size, to support the last bit of the pull-through of the bar?? Maybe a snap ring to keep it in place, and you could lubricate the inside of the bushing, to allow it to free-run in the bore, since the bore finish might not be smooth enough to prevent the bushing from wearing down too quickly?
Just a thought... (Very amateur machinist, but I have seen a lot of equipment designs in my career (
@@lohikarhu734 if you notice the big boring bar I was back boring with has a nose on it which is intended to be used either as you described or if you had a drilled hole you could pilot in it and let the boring tool follow the drill path.
Meant to ask earlier,how do u heat and keep warm in the shop..now that winter has , perhaps,set in ..?.. have a good night feller 👍👊
I was using an old water heater but the element burns up about once a year running 24/7. I wanted to put a water to air heat pump in but the poor crops and the storm damage took that money So now I just have to wear more clothes and tough it out. At least I am inside these days. Back in the garage shop days I had to work outside in the winter.
@bcbloc02 I know what you mean man.. sometimes we just have to use what we have and deal with it.. thanks for your time and all u do 👍👍👊
Could the bushes be made from Delron? AL B.
I don’t remember Delron having fibers in it but I am not super familiar on plastics.
Probably Delron/acetal
Like #1
Nice Brian, you can only live experience not buy it.
Very true!
What did you use to fill on lost bore ? If did not weld ?
@@KG-yn9qi A product called belzona