Yes please to an oil life indicator video. I've tried to convince my dad a 10,000 mile oil change interval on his Ecoboost F-150 is bad, so a third party explainer would be much appreciated.
@@2seep No, he's going to say, "I do care. That's why I follow the recommendations meticulously." It's probably better in his case to just make sure he uses products engineered for the highest mileage interval. Oil and filter. My oil change interval is the minimum. I use the cheapest and it works out fine.
I mean you could start by saying first of all that's under perfect conditions in reality probably the majority of people drive the severe service schedule The second knock would be he has an engine that is hard on motor oil turbos are hard on oil they get hot obviously somebody could put it more eloquently than that but those two things ought to be able to at least make him think about it if it doesn't then he's really not interested in the facts and just wants to argue
@@themotoroilgeek What about out oil change on a diesel? And yes on oil life indicators. The one on my wife's infinity is set at 6500 it was set at 10,000. Can't change the one on my truck, other than resetting it.
One of most important pieces of information I learned recently is that most modern Fords (and possibly other brands) have a "flood mode" that will allow the engine to crank without starting, great for reducing engine wear after long-term storage and after an oil change.
@@themotoroilgeekYES SIR ! WE DEFINITELY NEED TO KNOW, HOW THESE CARS/PICK-UPS , IFOMESSAGE OIL PERCENTAGE , ARE THEY RELIABLE. ? OR NOT ! THANKS AGAIN !!!
Wow, you guys are standing next to a M-Benz 300 SEL 6.3 M100 beast. I used to service them when they were new when I was a young Star Technician. Great years of my life. Our oil then at the dealership was Mobil 15w40 conventional oil . The oil change intervals back in the late 60's, early 70's was 3,000 miles. Love your channel 👍👍
This is great advice for RV owners who store their rigs over the winter. This contradicts a lot of conventional wisdom in the RV community (especially for RV generators, many of which still have carburetors). Thanks!
After 40+ years in the aftermarket & dealers as a tech, I changed jobs the landed me with Delco. We had two meetings per year and spoke with the two guys who wrote software for GM vehicles equipped with this. They took the same approach with one engine, samples, 3rd party testing, compression, fuel mapping at 2,400 RPM, and dozens more until they logged 2,000 hrs. This equates to just at 2K of run time. They admitted to being very conservative display numbers which include low temp, 8 minute drive cycles near the end of the testing. A gallon of straight ethanol will hold 7 tablespoons of water but amount several but reduces the molecular size to pass thru injectors. I disconnect the vehicles battery, clean and apply dielectric grease. 7-8 in-lbs is proper torque I believe. I have volt meters, trickle chargers and a conductance tester. I test once a month roughly. Extended mix on a full tank is best, but not over full. Nitrogen in tires helps keep rim to bead corrosion way down. Retired.
For winter storage, you also want to wash and wax or coat your car. Then drive it to get more water and soap from the wash evaporated. Don't cover it unless you create a lot of dust in your garage. Overinflate your tires somewhat to reduce flat spotting and put a good battery maintainer on your battery. If it gets extremely cold in your garage, remove the battery and store it at a reasonable temperature. Replace the engine and cabin air filters while you're at it, and clean the interior glass. You will be ready to go in the spring with minimal effort.
Good post, but I disagree about the battery. Lead acid batteries store much better in cold. In fact even better below freezing(!) due to much lower self discharge. However, it's super important that there is no vampire drains. A digital clock or alarm in a car is enough to drain it in a few months. But if you disconnect the battery, make sure it's clean, charge it full and leave it somewhere cold, like in fridge temp, you can leave it alone for almost 2 full years and maintain over 75-80% SOC. In 25C the same battery can sit for only 6-9 months without needing charge.
Yes to oil life monitors! Ive worked for Domestic and Import brands that either DO or DON'T have them and the algorithms that control life fascinate me.
Gasoline is hydroscopic because ethanol Absorbs moisture from the Air; When the water saturation threshold is met "Phase Separation" occurs causing the water to sink to the bottom of the tank where it causes corrosion in gas tanks and carburetors. Products like (Sta-Bil) and (K100 Fuel Treatment) help prevent phase separation and in some cases reverses the affect (Fuel Emulsification) enough for the "Bad Gas" to be burned in the engine. It is good practice to use Sta-Bil in any fuel system that's going to sit for three months or more.
YES, for OLM video! Specifically the rumor that GM had to reprogram theirs due to it being too lenient, & causing engine failure during warranty. There definitely is a difference between my 2008 Buick & my 2020 Express!
Yes please on the indicators function. Thanks for covering the when to change the oil question! I do Stire my Camry over the winter and put new synthetic oil (usually pennzoil platinum). I don’t change the oil when I put it on the road in the summer. I only start it now about once or twice per winter when it’s warm out and I drive it out of the garage and a very short distance, and I let it idle quite a while until it’s fully warmed up. I do like to get my tires sitting on a different spot and to use the brakes a bit. I do fill the tank and use stor n go. I also run the AC.
I often see friends and neighbors storing their car the wrong way for winter. Especially bad is when they start the engine every 2 or 3 weeks, letting it idle for 10 minutes with the garage door open, and then shutting it down. All the unburned fuel gets into the oil and dilutes it. Thanks for the video, Lake!
Agree & (respectfully) Disagree: 100% agree on your gas storage recommendations & fall oil changes. Disagree (partially) on leaving car alone. 100% agree running it for a few minutes (or less) is bad & exactly for the reasons you stated. My belief is if your going to start it, let it warm up completely, 20 minutes minimum or better yet take it for a drive to warm everything up, weather permitting. Another reason to not leave it alone is old cars with brake wheel cylinders tend to go bad if the brakes aren’t pushed a few times ideally do it monthly while in storage. I’ve seen a lot of guys wheel cylinders fail over winter when not “exercised”. Great videos & very informative!!
Great stuff as always Lake! I’ve been telling people for years, about leaving your fuel tank completely full, or completely drained. Yes definitely interested about the Oil Life Indicators. 👍
I knew all that back in 1975 when I stored my vehicles, long before you guys got together. In about 50 years of vehicle ownership I have never done a UOA and have never had an oil related failure with one engine even producing 190 HP per liter.
This all makes sense and I have been practicing it, not just on vehicles, but all my small engine equipment as well. Fresh oil, fresh gas, full tank with gas treatment.
Yes i used to start my vehicles and motorcycles while in storage years ago with the exception i did it once a month and would leave them run till they got up to operating temperature and run them at two thousand rpm for a bit i did this basically for the fuel system to avoid stale fuel settling i never used any type of fuel stabilizer either never had a problem but hey everybody's different. Great video
My 2005 6.0l Powerstroke has been parked for 11 months without being started. It has Amsoil in it, not that it matters at this point. I do need to resurrect it and do an easy drive to get it warmed up and get the oil dumped, I do have a test kit for a competitor because I didn't know about you Mr.Lake Speed jr. But I do now and will use you in the future. And I live in Az. In an area that actually gets 4 seasons. I'm a religious user of fuel additive and preach it to my son to use in his 6.7 Cummins.
My Grandfather died in 1994...his 84 Delta 88 5.7 diesel sat for 23 years in his garage with out being started.We put 2 batteries in it and it fired right up, but the belts busted.. I still drive it some to this day...some vehicles definitely can be stored much better than others...
In Australia, we don’t have many cars with ‘oil life indicators’ we don’t have any jiffy lubes or the like and most people just stick to service intervals (if you’re lucky) there seems to be a huge culture difference in Australia and the US regarding oil changes.
Yes to the oil life indicator! Very curious on how accurate they are?! Even tho my fiance is adamant about 3k mile changes. Thank you Lake for what you do!
definitely curious about the actual workings & data determining of the oil life readings.... I've heard that some simply measure the difference between oil restriction before the filter & after & calculates restriction (older chevys)..... others claim vehicles like the Ram use a more sophisticated set of readings that actually change oil life as driving conditions, speed, load, temperatures change, stop n go vs highway miles.... I myself DO notice it change depending on my weekly travels... if I'm loaded heavy most of the week doing around town it'll change faster than if i put 600 miles of highway loaded just as heavy.
I own a 2005 GTO with a manual transmission that I purchased new, it has 44k miles on it. It's a pleasure cruiser that gets about 2k miles a year put on it. It's stored in a garage on a battery tender most of the time. I change the oil and filter once a year regardless of the mileage, I also submit an oil sample for analysis once a year to keep an eye on the engine's condition. I always use Mobil 1 5w/30 and a Wix filter. I start the car once a week for 10 minutes, I feel these steps are keeping my car at its best.
Lake, I think you should 100% explain to people how the oil life system works. I’m assuming the software calculates for load driving cycles, warm-up times, etc. etc.. The one thing I like to point out is my uncle that used to be a Trans am late model racer, and I have discovered that all late model Subaru cars have a crank flood start mode, so let’s say if your Subaru has been sitting for a week or two you can fully depress the gas and crank the car. It cuts the fuel injectors out, allowing you to build engine oil pressure as far as I know only Subarus have this I have not tried this on my ISF I’m a little hesitant ( that ISF 5 liter revs extremely quickly) I guess what I could do is warm up the engine and try it and if it starts to race at least I have a warm engine… also, I just saw the recent video on from Rich Ford boss me where he just sent in a recent sample of the new Valvoline restore…. Very interesting. Thanks Mr. Speed.
I winterize boats for storage in the Northeast. In ideal circumstances I flush by running with fresh water until the engine is WARM and pull the drain plugs while flushing. Then change oil and filters and run on fresh water to circulate and warm the oil. Drain and fill with non toxic antifreeze and fog the Carburetor or air intake while adding the last of the antifreeze. Also try to get some fogging oil inside the carburetor vents while fogging. I look for plenty of fogging smoke out the exhaust. Once had somebody call the fire department when smoke poured out of the small storage garage. Got out just before the FD arrived! I add fuel treatment at the beginning but don't have much control over fuel tank volume. Gasoline does not deteriorate noticeably over a few months winter storage. Summer heat ages gas. Worst case scenario is leaving gasoline in a snow blower through spring, summer, fall and expect it to start at first snow. In spring start up I gingerly crank the engine a few revolutions to check for hydrostatic lock. Haven't had to deal with a stuck open valve in decades. They usually start up and run like I shut them off yesterday. Burn off the fogging oil on the run from launching to docking. Always looking for the perfect fogging oil, I've had good results with CRC Engine Stor fogging oil. GOT A PERFECT FOGGING OIL?
Yes definitely on an examination of the oil life minders. I have noted in my GM direct injection engine it will range anywhere from 9,000 mile down to just 3,000 mile in the winter and am curious just what parameters it is looking at to make these “guesses. Thank you for your great content.
Agree on changing oil before storage. But I would also add that you should disconnect the battery to eliminate parasitic drain (i installed a hand-turn disconnect device) and REMOVE the electrical fuse to the engine fuel pump. Then before taking the vehicle out of storage, verify battery health with a volt meter, reconnect the battery, and crank the engine for about 45 seconds BEFORE replacing the fuel pump fuse. This gets oil to the crankshaft, cylinder walls, cams etc BEFORE starting the engine. Have been doing this for 25 years with our RV, against "common wisdom" to start engine once a month. Our 1997 V10 engine has 85K miles with just routine maintenance (oil & filter changes every 3-5K miles) and burns no oil.
I also plug the exhaust and the air intake holes so no more oxigen goes in. Full tank with additives circulated, new oil circulated too, I raise it on stands to protect the tires. Then follow the pre spring start checklist. I have a convertible BMW 2001.
Motorcycles in cananda get stored for long periods. Lucky that they are usually indoors. I like to have fresh oil, get it smoking hot, then fogging oil to protect the valves, seats ect.
I would like to see your opinion on oil life indicator, but even more I would like your opinion on boutique oils (Redline, Amsoil, Ravenol and others).
I agree! There is tons of info on how OLMs work available with a quick Google search, although I'm sure Lake still has a lot of great info to contribute. But getting the opinions of an actual engineer who has data and experience to back up his opinions and claims on something like boutique oils is extremely rare since the actual experts usually aren't the ones making these videos and arguing on BITOG and other forums!
If you are going to start it up, you best do a 20 mile drive to bring it to operating temperature long enough to eliminate the blowby induced contaminants as much as possible. Short trippers almost always have a chocolate shake residue inside the oil filler cap!
Please do explain oil life maintenance minders. Can’t believe you guys didn’t at least mention battery maintenance and phantom draw through the winter or just pulling the battery cables for winter.
All good recommendations. I do actually recommend you start cars that are chain driven and have plastic chain guides. They stay supple by design by being in contact with oil. So they can become prematurely aged by not being in contact with oil once they have been heat cycled many times in the engine. So I personally recommend starting the engine once every 3 months if its being stored for longer that this. This recommendation come for European and Japanese cars. We don't really have any customers with American car (maybe the odd Corvette). But as said you shouldn't be starting it every week.
my 2015 mustang GT is only used July and August , sits all winter , I press the gas pedal to the floor in flood mode no fuel mode and crank it twice making sure the bearings are full and the chain tensioners are filled , then I release the throttle pedal and let her start up.
Great work sir. You deserve every view that you get. Wanted to know the effect of fuel injector cleaners on D.I engines and how often they should occur and whether they should be done before or after a oil change. Also, how about a break down on the type of oil filters (material, filtration ratings, pleat numbers etc). Keep up the great work.
I'd like the oil life indicator coverage, having a hard time believing it. Great suggestions on storage, it's what I've been doing for a long time in WI. 1 classic car and 2 Harleys
*_I learned allot from watchin this video & will start doing this for the winter? Now im curious… Does this also apply for storing a vehicle during the summer?? I would love a video on storing a vehicle away for the summer since it is getting hotter!_*
Granted, my experience is in antique tractors and such (which are way lower tech and have really lax clearances and specifications compared to any car/truck/modern equipment), but I usually go ahead and start them during the winter. However, I never let them run for less than 30 minutes, and I do something with them to make sure they warm up (into the operating range). I know they'll never be as warm as they would be during the summer, but...Its honestly easier for me to start them and let the generator/alternator charge the batteries, rather than trying to keep all of them on a maintainer/charger all winter long. That's with the gas burners. The diesels I never usually start during the winter because of how cold-blooded they are. Neither have glow plugs, and only one of them has a block heater.
Another problem with running the engine for short periods of time, is the exhaust. When fuel burns, it generates a lot of water. If the exhaust is not allowed to get hot enough to boil off the condensed water, it can cause rust/corrosion. Doing that repeatedly will literally rust the exhaust system from the inside out! everything mentioned in this video holds doubly true, for back-up generators. If I feel a need to fire my generator, I run it loaded, for at least one hour, even of the power comes back on. I want to get the oil up to normal operating temperature, then maintain it, to make sure the water that condenses from the fuel has time to evaporate. With big engines, with outputs exceeding 100 kW, I recommend at least 4 hours of loaded operation per start.
100% on the oil sensors. Bmw has their oil level sensor with a condition sensor. It’s able to measure how oxidized and acidic the oil is and will vary the mileage till oil change is needed
Can you make a video on how some of today's full synthetic motor oils being used in engines built/assembled in the 60's, 70's, and 80's interact with the engine internals? I'd like to see how today's synthetics handle flat tappet cams.
Good advice on oil change and no start. Note that keeping fuel tank full also reduces moisture accumulation from diurnal temperature and humidity and barometer fluctuations. I'd like more on ethanol free vs std gas. How about coolant, you chem experts? Finally, trickle charger keeps battery alive. Sure, tell us about oil life monitors.
Great video! I Would love a video on modern car oil life indicators, also would you make a video explaining why you don’t like additional additives in oil such as MOA or Liqui moly? And what are your thoughts on their engine flushes as well?
I suppose I should watch a video on maintenance minders since....I ignore them completely. I'm a spreadsheet nut so I never miss an OCI. I'd pull the fuse on the minder if I could. I hate them. Soooo, there's a chance I'm missing something? Excellent video on storage because you touched on something I've been passionate about: don't just start a car and then shut it off if it has not fully come up to temperature. We have a single car driveway and parking on the street is illegal overnight in the winter...sooooo, ever morning and night is the automotive musical cars. I hate it. I hate starting and stopping them....cringe.
Yes. One good practice I've done for years in the spring before 1st start up of a winterized engine is remove one qt from the engine and add one fresh new qt through the valve cover to help lubricate the valve train during that first crucial start of the spring. Great content ! Keep up the good work 👏
What’s your thought on starting your engine once every few weeks during the winter months and letting it run for about 30 minutes at various RPM’s to ensure the oil is hot. That’s what I’ve always done but after watching your video, maybe that’s not the best thing to do.
YES on oil life indicators
Absolutely. Even though I ignore mine and change based on miles. Oil analysis verifies my change interval is appropriate.
Yes. Indicator video, please!
Noted!
Yes on oil life indicator
If I used that, I'd be changing oil and filter once a month.
Yes please to an oil life indicator video.
I've tried to convince my dad a 10,000 mile oil change interval on his Ecoboost F-150 is bad, so a third party explainer would be much appreciated.
Noted!
Tell your dad that it seems like he doesn’t care about his truck. Use psychology. Sometimes it’s the only way to convince people
@@2seep No, he's going to say, "I do care. That's why I follow the recommendations meticulously." It's probably better in his case to just make sure he uses products engineered for the highest mileage interval. Oil and filter. My oil change interval is the minimum. I use the cheapest and it works out fine.
I mean you could start by saying first of all that's under perfect conditions in reality probably the majority of people drive the severe service schedule The second knock would be he has an engine that is hard on motor oil turbos are hard on oil they get hot obviously somebody could put it more eloquently than that but those two things ought to be able to at least make him think about it if it doesn't then he's really not interested in the facts and just wants to argue
@@themotoroilgeek What about out oil change on a diesel? And yes on oil life indicators. The one on my wife's infinity is set at 6500 it was set at 10,000. Can't change the one on my truck, other than resetting it.
One of most important pieces of information I learned recently is that most modern Fords (and possibly other brands) have a "flood mode" that will allow the engine to crank without starting, great for reducing engine wear after long-term storage and after an oil change.
All fuel injected engines I've tested have flood mode, it's standard as far as I know.
Just pull the fuel pump fuse/relay and crank the engine over for like 5 seconds.
@@rolandotillit2867 Some people use flood mode daily on their fords due to excessive rod bearing knock.
The Corvette has flood mode which prevents the car from firing
@@richarddobreny6664 Are you sure it stops spark? Usually fuel injectors are not fired (thus the term "flood mode").
Definite YES on oil life indicators!
Noted!
I would like to see how oil life indicator work
Noted!
Simple. Pull the dipstick, look, inspect, smell. You can tell a LOT with your nose and eyes.
@@themotoroilgeekYES SIR ! WE DEFINITELY NEED TO KNOW, HOW THESE CARS/PICK-UPS , IFOMESSAGE OIL PERCENTAGE , ARE THEY RELIABLE. ? OR NOT ! THANKS AGAIN !!!
Wow, you guys are standing next to a M-Benz 300 SEL 6.3 M100 beast.
I used to service them when they were new when I was a young Star Technician. Great years of my life. Our oil then at the dealership was Mobil 15w40 conventional oil .
The oil change intervals back in the late 60's, early 70's was 3,000 miles.
Love your channel 👍👍
Thanks!
Yes, interested in how the oil life indicators work on Hondas. Thank you for your videos. I am learning a lot about oil.
Noted!
@@themotoroilgeektwo-cycle engine's do not apply
Love your content! So many myths about oil, it's refreshing to get answers with actual data and science behind it.
Thanks!
Please make a video on oil life monitors please!!!
Noted!
This is great advice for RV owners who store their rigs over the winter. This contradicts a lot of conventional wisdom in the RV community (especially for RV generators, many of which still have carburetors). Thanks!
Absolutely yes on oil indicators !
After 40+ years in the aftermarket & dealers as a tech, I changed jobs the landed me with Delco. We had two meetings per year and spoke with the two guys who wrote software for GM vehicles equipped with this. They took the same approach with one engine, samples, 3rd party testing, compression, fuel mapping at 2,400 RPM, and dozens more until they logged 2,000 hrs. This equates to just at 2K of run time. They admitted to being very conservative display numbers which include low temp, 8 minute drive cycles near the end of the testing. A gallon of straight ethanol will hold 7 tablespoons of water but amount several but reduces the molecular size to pass thru injectors. I disconnect the vehicles battery, clean and apply dielectric grease. 7-8 in-lbs is proper torque I believe. I have volt meters, trickle chargers and a conductance tester. I test once a month roughly. Extended mix on a full tank is best, but not over full. Nitrogen in tires helps keep rim to bead corrosion way down. Retired.
For winter storage, you also want to wash and wax or coat your car. Then drive it to get more water and soap from the wash evaporated. Don't cover it unless you create a lot of dust in your garage. Overinflate your tires somewhat to reduce flat spotting and put a good battery maintainer on your battery. If it gets extremely cold in your garage, remove the battery and store it at a reasonable temperature. Replace the engine and cabin air filters while you're at it, and clean the interior glass. You will be ready to go in the spring with minimal effort.
Good post, but I disagree about the battery. Lead acid batteries store much better in cold. In fact even better below freezing(!) due to much lower self discharge. However, it's super important that there is no vampire drains. A digital clock or alarm in a car is enough to drain it in a few months. But if you disconnect the battery, make sure it's clean, charge it full and leave it somewhere cold, like in fridge temp, you can leave it alone for almost 2 full years and maintain over 75-80% SOC. In 25C the same battery can sit for only 6-9 months without needing charge.
Why not just use blanket to protect the car against the dust?
Yes yes do a video on oil change indicator
Noted!
Yes to oil life monitors! Ive worked for Domestic and Import brands that either DO or DON'T have them and the algorithms that control life fascinate me.
Noted!
Yes to the oil life indicators. I'm pretty sure that it's just an equation based on milage, time, and engine load. I'd love to see your take though.
Noted!
Delve some on its algorithms, like GM's and why it's limites to 7.5k miles, since 2016.
Gasoline is hydroscopic because ethanol Absorbs moisture from the Air; When the water saturation threshold is met
"Phase Separation" occurs causing the water to sink to the bottom of the tank where it causes corrosion in gas tanks and carburetors. Products like (Sta-Bil) and (K100 Fuel Treatment) help prevent phase separation and in some cases reverses the affect (Fuel Emulsification) enough for the "Bad Gas" to be burned in the engine.
It is good practice to use Sta-Bil in any fuel system that's going to sit for three months or more.
YES, for OLM video! Specifically the rumor that GM had to reprogram theirs due to it being too lenient, & causing engine failure during warranty. There definitely is a difference between my 2008 Buick & my 2020 Express!
Yes please on the indicators function.
Thanks for covering the when to change the oil question! I do Stire my Camry over the winter and put new synthetic oil (usually pennzoil platinum). I don’t change the oil when I put it on the road in the summer.
I only start it now about once or twice per winter when it’s warm out and I drive it out of the garage and a very short distance, and I let it idle quite a while until it’s fully warmed up. I do like to get my tires sitting on a different spot and to use the brakes a bit.
I do fill the tank and use stor n go. I also run the AC.
Good info. This is exactly what boat owners go through for winter storage. Same rules apply.
I often see friends and neighbors storing their car the wrong way for winter. Especially bad is when they start the engine every 2 or 3 weeks, letting it idle for 10 minutes with the garage door open, and then shutting it down. All the unburned fuel gets into the oil and dilutes it. Thanks for the video, Lake!
Agree & (respectfully) Disagree: 100% agree on your gas storage recommendations & fall oil changes. Disagree (partially) on leaving car alone. 100% agree running it for a few minutes (or less) is bad & exactly for the reasons you stated. My belief is if your going to start it, let it warm up completely, 20 minutes minimum or better yet take it for a drive to warm everything up, weather permitting. Another reason to not leave it alone is old cars with brake wheel cylinders tend to go bad if the brakes aren’t pushed a few times ideally do it monthly while in storage. I’ve seen a lot of guys wheel cylinders fail over winter when not “exercised”. Great videos & very informative!!
Thanks for sharing!
Great stuff as always Lake!
I’ve been telling people for years, about leaving your fuel tank completely full, or completely drained.
Yes definitely interested about the Oil Life Indicators. 👍
I knew all that back in 1975 when I stored my vehicles, long before you guys got together. In about 50 years of vehicle ownership I have never done a UOA and have never had an oil related failure with one engine even producing 190 HP per liter.
This all makes sense and I have been practicing it, not just on vehicles, but all my small engine equipment as well. Fresh oil, fresh gas, full tank with gas treatment.
YES on oil life indicators.
Yes i used to start my vehicles and motorcycles while in storage years ago with the exception i did it once a month and would leave them run till they got up to operating temperature and run them at two thousand rpm for a bit i did this basically for the fuel system to avoid stale fuel settling i never used any type of fuel stabilizer either never had a problem but hey everybody's different. Great video
Only think I haven't been doing was changing my oil before parking it, guess Ill start doing that now.
Yes on oil life indicator. That would be useful knowledge.
Noted!
My 2005 6.0l Powerstroke has been parked for 11 months without being started. It has Amsoil in it, not that it matters at this point. I do need to resurrect it and do an easy drive to get it warmed up and get the oil dumped, I do have a test kit for a competitor because I didn't know about you Mr.Lake Speed jr. But I do now and will use you in the future. And I live in Az. In an area that actually gets 4 seasons. I'm a religious user of fuel additive and preach it to my son to use in his 6.7 Cummins.
Yes definitely explain how the oil life system works.
My Grandfather died in 1994...his 84 Delta 88 5.7 diesel sat for 23 years in his garage with out being started.We put 2 batteries in it and it fired right up, but the belts busted.. I still drive it some to this day...some vehicles definitely can be stored much better than others...
F-bomb yes we want a video on measuring oil life in cars
Noted!
Also a yes on the oil life monitor
Noted!
I have always wondered what these systems are doing and the algorithms used. Please do!
Noted!
In Australia, we don’t have many cars with ‘oil life indicators’ we don’t have any jiffy lubes or the like and most people just stick to service intervals (if you’re lucky) there seems to be a huge culture difference in Australia and the US regarding oil changes.
Yes to the oil life indicator! Very curious on how accurate they are?! Even tho my fiance is adamant about 3k mile changes. Thank you Lake for what you do!
Thanks! Your vote is noted.
Yes please on the Oil Life monitor systems! Thanks
Yes, please do a video on oil life indicators, particularly in later model Honda's, if you don't mind.
definitely curious about the actual workings & data determining of the oil life readings.... I've heard that some simply measure the difference between oil restriction before the filter & after & calculates restriction (older chevys)..... others claim vehicles like the Ram use a more sophisticated set of readings that actually change oil life as driving conditions, speed, load, temperatures change, stop n go vs highway miles.... I myself DO notice it change depending on my weekly travels... if I'm loaded heavy most of the week doing around town it'll change faster than if i put 600 miles of highway loaded just as heavy.
YES on oil life indicators
Noted
YES on How do oil indicators work in modern cars?
I own a 2005 GTO with a manual transmission that I purchased new, it has 44k miles on it. It's a pleasure cruiser that gets about 2k miles a year put on it. It's stored in a garage on a battery tender most of the time. I change the oil and filter once a year regardless of the mileage, I also submit an oil sample for analysis once a year to keep an eye on the engine's condition. I always use Mobil 1 5w/30 and a Wix filter. I start the car once a week for 10 minutes, I feel these steps are keeping my car at its best.
Literally just told you not to start the car
That doesn't mean I have to listen. The oil analysis comes back good.@@BubblesTheCat1
Definitely interested in oil life indicators.
YES, we are interested in the way life indicators work
Noted!
I eat this information up. you could never make too many videos, they are all amazing.
Also interested in oil life indicators, keep up the good job!
Thanks! Will do!
Yes, on the oil change computing
Noted!
Yes we wanna learn more about oil life indicators
I was expecting one of the tips of this video to be Unhook the battery.
Lake, I think you should 100% explain to people how the oil life system works. I’m assuming the software calculates for load driving cycles, warm-up times, etc. etc.. The one thing I like to point out is my uncle that used to be a Trans am late model racer, and I have discovered that all late model Subaru cars have a crank flood start mode, so let’s say if your Subaru has been sitting for a week or two you can fully depress the gas and crank the car. It cuts the fuel injectors out, allowing you to build engine oil pressure as far as I know only Subarus have this I have not tried this on my ISF I’m a little hesitant ( that ISF 5 liter revs extremely quickly) I guess what I could do is warm up the engine and try it and if it starts to race at least I have a warm engine… also, I just saw the recent video on from Rich Ford boss me where he just sent in a recent sample of the new Valvoline restore…. Very interesting. Thanks Mr. Speed.
I winterize boats for storage in the Northeast. In ideal circumstances I flush by running with fresh water until the engine is WARM and pull the drain plugs while flushing. Then change oil and filters and run on fresh water to circulate and warm the oil. Drain and fill with non toxic antifreeze and fog the
Carburetor or air intake while adding the last of the antifreeze. Also try to get some fogging oil inside the carburetor vents while fogging. I look for plenty of fogging smoke out the exhaust. Once had somebody call the fire department when smoke poured out of the small storage garage. Got out
just before the FD arrived! I add fuel treatment at the beginning but don't have much control over fuel tank volume. Gasoline does not deteriorate
noticeably over a few months winter storage. Summer heat ages gas.
Worst case scenario is leaving gasoline in a snow blower through spring, summer, fall and expect it to start at first snow. In spring start up
I gingerly crank the engine a few revolutions to check for hydrostatic
lock. Haven't had to deal with a stuck open valve in decades. They usually start up and run like I shut them off
yesterday. Burn off the fogging oil on the run from launching to docking.
Always looking for the perfect fogging oil, I've had good results with
CRC Engine Stor fogging oil. GOT A PERFECT FOGGING OIL?
Yes definitely on an examination of the oil life minders. I have noted in my GM direct injection engine it will range anywhere from 9,000 mile down to just 3,000 mile in the winter and am curious just what parameters it is looking at to make these “guesses. Thank you for your great content.
Thanks for sharing! That’s going to be part of it.
Agree on changing oil before storage. But I would also add that you should disconnect the battery to eliminate parasitic drain (i installed a hand-turn disconnect device) and REMOVE the electrical fuse to the engine fuel pump. Then before taking the vehicle out of storage, verify battery health with a volt meter, reconnect the battery, and crank the engine for about 45 seconds BEFORE replacing the fuel pump fuse. This gets oil to the crankshaft, cylinder walls, cams etc BEFORE starting the engine. Have been doing this for 25 years with our RV, against "common wisdom" to start engine once a month. Our 1997 V10 engine has 85K miles with just routine maintenance (oil & filter changes every 3-5K miles) and burns no oil.
Yes, please let us know how oil life indicators work. Thanks for the tips.
Noted!
Yes, please cover how oil life indicators work
Got it!
I know you’ve brought all of this up before, but I always enjoy your videos. Take care.
It’s great to hear these tips from the two of you - I’m happy to hear that I’ve been doing it correctly. Thanks!
Yes, would love to see a video on oil indicators
Awesome vid. Keep it up! Such important content.
Thanks!
Yes on oil life indicator
I did this from instinct, but im glad i didnt made a mistake....
Great video, as always !
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Quick question : castrol or mobil 1?
I also plug the exhaust and the air intake holes so no more oxigen goes in. Full tank with additives circulated, new oil circulated too, I raise it on stands to protect the tires. Then follow the pre spring start checklist. I have a convertible BMW 2001.
Motorcycles in cananda get stored for long periods. Lucky that they are usually indoors. I like to have fresh oil, get it smoking hot, then fogging oil to protect the valves, seats ect.
I would like to see your opinion on oil life indicator, but even more I would like your opinion on boutique oils (Redline, Amsoil, Ravenol and others).
Boutique oils. lol. That's a good way to put it.
Noted
I agree! There is tons of info on how OLMs work available with a quick Google search, although I'm sure Lake still has a lot of great info to contribute. But getting the opinions of an actual engineer who has data and experience to back up his opinions and claims on something like boutique oils is extremely rare since the actual experts usually aren't the ones making these videos and arguing on BITOG and other forums!
YES on oil life indicators
If you are going to start it up, you best do a 20 mile drive to bring it to operating temperature long enough to eliminate the blowby induced contaminants as much as possible. Short trippers almost always have a chocolate shake residue inside the oil filler cap!
Please do explain oil life maintenance minders.
Can’t believe you guys didn’t at least mention battery maintenance and phantom draw through the winter or just pulling the battery cables for winter.
Noted
Yes on oil life I decanters and how to reset them thank you.
Yes please, I would like to know about oil life indicators.
Yes please on how oil life indicators work.
Good video. Also best to have a trickle charger, to keep the battery charged.
Yes please on oil life indicators 😊
Noted!
I asked if I should trust the oil life indicator inthe last video. So PLEASE do a video on it!
All good recommendations.
I do actually recommend you start cars that are chain driven and have plastic chain guides. They stay supple by design by being in contact with oil. So they can become prematurely aged by not being in contact with oil once they have been heat cycled many times in the engine. So I personally recommend starting the engine once every 3 months if its being stored for longer that this.
This recommendation come for European and Japanese cars. We don't really have any customers with American car (maybe the odd Corvette). But as said you shouldn't be starting it every week.
The oil life indicator on my 2022 Honda Civic works on a calendar date. It doesn’t go by viscosity or pressure like I first believed.
Yes on Oil Life indicators.
YES on the oil life % light!
my 2015 mustang GT is only used July and August , sits all winter , I press the gas pedal to the floor in flood mode no fuel mode and crank it twice making sure the bearings are full and the chain tensioners are filled , then I release the throttle pedal and let her start up.
Great tip!
Great work sir. You deserve every view that you get. Wanted to know the effect of fuel injector cleaners on D.I engines and how often they should occur and whether they should be done before or after a oil change. Also, how about a break down on the type of oil filters (material, filtration ratings, pleat numbers etc). Keep up the great work.
Yes on oil life indicators!!
Yes...oil life indicators, thanks
Noted
Awesome stuff here!
Appreciate it!
I'd like the oil life indicator coverage, having a hard time believing it. Great suggestions on storage, it's what I've been doing for a long time in WI. 1 classic car and 2 Harleys
Yes please on oil life monitors.
Noted!
*_I learned allot from watchin this video & will start doing this for the winter? Now im curious… Does this also apply for storing a vehicle during the summer?? I would love a video on storing a vehicle away for the summer since it is getting hotter!_*
Yes on oil Indicators !
Got it!
Granted, my experience is in antique tractors and such (which are way lower tech and have really lax clearances and specifications compared to any car/truck/modern equipment), but I usually go ahead and start them during the winter. However, I never let them run for less than 30 minutes, and I do something with them to make sure they warm up (into the operating range). I know they'll never be as warm as they would be during the summer, but...Its honestly easier for me to start them and let the generator/alternator charge the batteries, rather than trying to keep all of them on a maintainer/charger all winter long. That's with the gas burners. The diesels I never usually start during the winter because of how cold-blooded they are. Neither have glow plugs, and only one of them has a block heater.
Yes please! Thank you for all the information!
You got it!
Another problem with running the engine for short periods of time, is the exhaust. When fuel burns, it generates a lot of water. If the exhaust is not allowed to get hot enough to boil off the condensed water, it can cause rust/corrosion. Doing that repeatedly will literally rust the exhaust system from the inside out!
everything mentioned in this video holds doubly true, for back-up generators. If I feel a need to fire my generator, I run it loaded, for at least one hour, even of the power comes back on. I want to get the oil up to normal operating temperature, then maintain it, to make sure the water that condenses from the fuel has time to evaporate. With big engines, with outputs exceeding 100 kW, I recommend at least 4 hours of loaded operation per start.
100% on the oil sensors. Bmw has their oil level sensor with a condition sensor. It’s able to measure how oxidized and acidic the oil is and will vary the mileage till oil change is needed
Can you make a video on how some of today's full synthetic motor oils being used in engines built/assembled in the 60's, 70's, and 80's interact with the engine internals?
I'd like to see how today's synthetics handle flat tappet cams.
Good advice on oil change and no start. Note that keeping fuel tank full also reduces moisture accumulation from diurnal temperature and humidity and barometer fluctuations. I'd like more on ethanol free vs std gas. How about coolant, you chem experts? Finally, trickle charger keeps battery alive.
Sure, tell us about oil life monitors.
Thanks!
Great video! I Would love a video on modern car oil life indicators, also would you make a video explaining why you don’t like additional additives in oil such as MOA or Liqui moly? And what are your thoughts on their engine flushes as well?
Noted!
Yes please on oil life indicators!! :)
Noted!
I suppose I should watch a video on maintenance minders since....I ignore them completely. I'm a spreadsheet nut so I never miss an OCI. I'd pull the fuse on the minder if I could. I hate them. Soooo, there's a chance I'm missing something? Excellent video on storage because you touched on something I've been passionate about: don't just start a car and then shut it off if it has not fully come up to temperature. We have a single car driveway and parking on the street is illegal overnight in the winter...sooooo, ever morning and night is the automotive musical cars. I hate it. I hate starting and stopping them....cringe.
Yes, please do that video
Noted!
Yes. One good practice I've done for years in the spring before 1st start up of a winterized engine is remove one qt from the engine and add one fresh new qt through the valve cover to help lubricate the valve train during that first crucial start of the spring. Great content ! Keep up the good work 👏
On older engines, you used to be able to pull the distributors and drive the oil pump with a drill to pump oil everywhere first.
What’s your thought on starting your engine once every few weeks during the winter months and letting it run for about 30 minutes at various RPM’s to ensure the oil is hot. That’s what I’ve always done but after watching your video, maybe that’s not the best thing to do.
Disconnect battery in cold climates to prevent losing charge over winter! Or use battery minder, if an outlet is available.
Yes please.