next time you specialty tools call Cornwell customer service and ask for riley he's my son tell i told you to call he'll hook you up . good bit of info as usual
I am looking forward to getting my garage built,,will be spendind alot of time in it working on the iroc z ,,same condition of your car but I put a new paint job on it the clear coat was chipping all over.Love seeing the progress.I am gonna be working on my window regulator next ,,all weather stripping brand new but my door wind alignment not very good ...I have t tops as well .Be carefull leaving the car outside in the rain you might get a big suprise.Keep up the great work.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Was it the passenger side?check the t tops as well,,Like you already know all can be fixed with a little patience,,I noticed places that can be fixed with a little silicone,,with nice professional results.
Torx seems to expect that the conventional profile will work for most people (T47), but the teeth aren't as thick and I can see how it would be easy to break them.
Good video. You want those TP45, and TP50. 1. `t`|`torx` is regular star shape with 6 pointy corners and nodes|tips. 2. `tt`|`torx tamper`|`torx tamper proof` is security torx (and they have a female hole in the top center of the tip of the bits (because I had buy a set for app13 computers); hermaphrodite bits. These used to be hard to buy anywhere which made them a security feature. 3. `tp`|`torx plus`|`torx power` These are hardened bits and have rounded and thick corners and points (because a mission critical joint was designed with more torque for the application (like your seat belt or a distributor or change a light bulb assembly sometimes)). You need to apply alot of force (like with a breaker bar (for automotive and engine reasons)). 4. `e`|`inverse torx`|`female torx`|`socket torx`|`reverse torx` is a female socket that mates with a torx head scew or nut. `tps`|`torx plus security` is tt and tp mix into one bit. If you use a impact wrench, then use the bit adapter; if something breaks, then it should be the bit adapter instead of the bit. You can find the impact wrench adapters easier at your local shop. You can use your regular ratchet or hand wrench (without the adapter). But beware, for if you do not seat it correctly then you can still shear||crack||break the bit. Or if you do not apply square|perpendicular|normal force, then you might unevenly yank, crank, break the bit. Torx works like a gear. A gear is basically a lever. The lever and the fulcrum of each tooth allows for more total power|torque (which makes the joint mating tighter). Also the thicker||fatter the tooth and the rounder the [pitch circle], the more surface area and force is applied (making it more efficient); your impact wrench or drill won't have to work as hard. That is why torx `TP` type is designated for making stronger joints. SnapOn and BluePoint, SK, and U.S.A. make their bits usually with fat and better [pitch circle] design. They loosen and tighten bolts with more efficient force (but without killing your wrench or hand drill). A [pitch circle] is like when the two gears mesh efficiently at the teeth. A good pitch circle is when you have correcty bit-to-bolt mating. Chinesium||[from china] cut the manufacturing cost by thinning walls and making the seating loose. Then the bit either breaks, twists, over heats, deteriorates, or they do not rust proof it. You can find the ok chinese parts if you look at the fatness and how the metal was forged (and if you know what to hear for sometimes (like the old days when they knew the tune frequencies)).
Thank you for your comments. I expect that the GM special is a Torx Plus series bit, but when I located design drawings on line, I couldn't determine an exact match with TP45 and TP50. My thought is that GM may have had a special profile designed to their specifications, such as perhaps a TP47. One more fine point, there are Tamper Resistant (6 point with a pin) and Tamper Proof (5 point with a pin) Torx. Many times those are confused. I learned the difference when I was working hybrid powertrains and high voltage access covers. The Tamper Proof version tools were not generally available at the time and you may have to prove to the tool manufacturer that you have the authorization to purchase them. I imagine there are cheap versions of the 5 point available these days that aren't restricted.
I have a 1990 suburban. T-50 fits in perfectly. T-47 is a bit sloppy. Anyhow, I bought the 1/2" drive impact kit containing both and my seatbelt bolts won't budge (even with an impact gun.) Such a pain. Taking it to a mechanic this week to have him break them loose for me.
If you get a good fit with a T50, that's good. Since the bolts go through the floor to the outside, they can get corroded even though the bolts have anti-corrosion coating / plating. My experience is that sometimes the impact wrenches can't break tough bolts loose. I have better luck with a long breaker bar in combination with a good penetrating oil, while still being careful not to break or bend something else. I hope your mechanic has success.
@bitsofwisdom460 thanks! Yep I sprayed them like hell and used my behemoth breaker bar. I've broken 7 t-50s and 9 t-47. Hammered and heated them too. Such. A. Pain.
The service manual from 1985 provides numbers J23457 and BT-7107. I think the J- number is Kent-Moore. But, I haven't been able to find either of these in a search.
That T47 did the trick…. Thanks a lot for this Sir!!!
You're welcome, glad that it worked!
I ordered a used snap on socket for my 2001 Sonoma seat bolt. I had tried a T50 but I stopped before I broke the bit. Thanks!
next time you specialty tools call Cornwell customer service and ask for riley he's my son tell i told you to call he'll hook you up . good bit of info as usual
Rick, thank you for the advice, I'll keep that in mind!
Thanks I needed to hear this drivers seat belt :)
You're welcome!
I am looking forward to getting my garage built,,will be spendind alot of time in it working on the iroc z ,,same condition of your car but I put a new paint job on it the clear coat was chipping all over.Love seeing the progress.I am gonna be working on my window regulator next ,,all weather stripping brand new but my door wind alignment not very good ...I have t tops as well .Be carefull leaving the car outside in the rain you might get a big suprise.Keep up the great work.
Thank you. I have had the car in the rain and you're right. It did have some small leakage on one side, so I do need to be careful.
@@bitsofwisdom460 Was it the passenger side?check the t tops as well,,Like you already know all can be fixed with a little patience,,I noticed places that can be fixed with a little silicone,,with nice professional results.
I’ve broken many torque bit on those!
Torx seems to expect that the conventional profile will work for most people (T47), but the teeth aren't as thick and I can see how it would be easy to break them.
Thank You Sir
You're welcome
Good video. You want those TP45, and TP50.
1. `t`|`torx` is regular star shape with 6 pointy corners and nodes|tips.
2. `tt`|`torx tamper`|`torx tamper proof` is security torx (and they have a female hole in the top center of the tip of the bits (because I had buy a set for app13 computers); hermaphrodite bits. These used to be hard to buy anywhere which made them a security feature.
3. `tp`|`torx plus`|`torx power` These are hardened bits and have rounded and thick corners and points (because a mission critical joint was designed with more torque for the application (like your seat belt or a distributor or change a light bulb assembly sometimes)). You need to apply alot of force (like with a breaker bar (for automotive and engine reasons)).
4. `e`|`inverse torx`|`female torx`|`socket torx`|`reverse torx` is a female socket that mates with a torx head scew or nut.
`tps`|`torx plus security` is tt and tp mix into one bit.
If you use a impact wrench, then use the bit adapter; if something breaks, then it should be the bit adapter instead of the bit. You can find the impact wrench adapters easier at your local shop. You can use your regular ratchet or hand wrench (without the adapter). But beware, for if you do not seat it correctly then you can still shear||crack||break the bit. Or if you do not apply square|perpendicular|normal force, then you might unevenly yank, crank, break the bit.
Torx works like a gear. A gear is basically a lever. The lever and the fulcrum of each tooth allows for more total power|torque (which makes the joint mating tighter). Also the thicker||fatter the tooth and the rounder the [pitch circle], the more surface area and force is applied (making it more efficient); your impact wrench or drill won't have to work as hard. That is why torx `TP` type is designated for making stronger joints.
SnapOn and BluePoint, SK, and U.S.A. make their bits usually with fat and better [pitch circle] design. They loosen and tighten bolts with more efficient force (but without killing your wrench or hand drill). A [pitch circle] is like when the two gears mesh efficiently at the teeth. A good pitch circle is when you have correcty bit-to-bolt mating.
Chinesium||[from china] cut the manufacturing cost by thinning walls and making the seating loose. Then the bit either breaks, twists, over heats, deteriorates, or they do not rust proof it. You can find the ok chinese parts if you look at the fatness and how the metal was forged (and if you know what to hear for sometimes (like the old days when they knew the tune frequencies)).
Thank you for your comments. I expect that the GM special is a Torx Plus series bit, but when I located design drawings on line, I couldn't determine an exact match with TP45 and TP50. My thought is that GM may have had a special profile designed to their specifications, such as perhaps a TP47.
One more fine point, there are Tamper Resistant (6 point with a pin) and Tamper Proof (5 point with a pin) Torx. Many times those are confused. I learned the difference when I was working hybrid powertrains and high voltage access covers. The Tamper Proof version tools were not generally available at the time and you may have to prove to the tool manufacturer that you have the authorization to purchase them. I imagine there are cheap versions of the 5 point available these days that aren't restricted.
I have a 1990 suburban. T-50 fits in perfectly. T-47 is a bit sloppy. Anyhow, I bought the 1/2" drive impact kit containing both and my seatbelt bolts won't budge (even with an impact gun.) Such a pain. Taking it to a mechanic this week to have him break them loose for me.
If you get a good fit with a T50, that's good. Since the bolts go through the floor to the outside, they can get corroded even though the bolts have anti-corrosion coating / plating. My experience is that sometimes the impact wrenches can't break tough bolts loose. I have better luck with a long breaker bar in combination with a good penetrating oil, while still being careful not to break or bend something else. I hope your mechanic has success.
@bitsofwisdom460 thanks! Yep I sprayed them like hell and used my behemoth breaker bar. I've broken 7 t-50s and 9 t-47. Hammered and heated them too. Such. A. Pain.
Yes, that is tough. I would have gone the same route - heat and penetrating oil. If you're breaking the bits, that's really hard.
hi did you say kent moore number Thank you
The service manual from 1985 provides numbers J23457 and BT-7107. I think the J- number is Kent-Moore. But, I haven't been able to find either of these in a search.
Please get to the point