This was one of the very first videos that I made. I know that it progresses slowly, and isn’t the best; no filming equipment and out of my comfort zone. But, I just dove in and was trying to share helpful information to help people out. I plan to remake this video at a faster pace with much more detail in the future.!
@Buckwheat Hikes I agree. My POS Chevy equinox driver seat bolts are t50 torx bolts and one of them is stripped and it was torqued down, I suspect it was because the heater core was replaced before. And they would have needed to have removed the driver seat. I'm trying to take them out and so I can detail it extremely.
Best video ever I’m changing the transmission fluid on my 90 Mercedes with only 90k miles & the t30 is completely stripped I don’t think it has ever been taken off imma have to rent another jack & really get under there thanks for the tip!
Mine is between the firewall and the engine and there is barely enough room to fit a socket. Why would you use torx bolts on a car engine, especially on an intake? I wish engine designers had to work on them.
Thanks for pointing that out! I agree; welding creates extreme heat and will damage plastic or sensitive materials. Typically, when I experience issues with Torx bolts, it is in an automotive application, where it will not turn because it is rusted into a steel tapped hole. In that case, welding helps to break the bond. Thanks!
@@jameson6930 when installing them, they are easier/faster to mate with a driver tool, less prone to strip, and more torque can be applied. This is an advantage for automobile assembly lines for example. They can quickly and repeatably be rammed right in with a power driver. However, they can be a real hassle to remove, especially after time if they have rusted.
@@jameson6930 exactly as the videos\channel's author stated. Just referencing the torx head deck screws, if I had a choice I'd spend the extra money on those in a fab. job EVERYtime cause they don't torque out when applying 98% of the time. But for longevity on a vehicle they are a hassle without being stainless steel or some high quality anti rusting. Trying to remove about 6 to 8 on my chevy's tailgate hinges, they are bulbous capped torx heads and one stripped. The other quite literally twisted the torx head bit when applying the ratchet bit on my breaker bar. After applying PB breaker spray 4 times and letting it soak in each time. It's comical in a way.
For sure. This is the first video that I made. Definitely not my best work. The next time I encounter a stuck bolt worth welding a nut on, I will definitely remake this video!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Sorry, long day of trying to remove stripped torx screws will do this to a man .. I appreciate the video, I was hoping for an alternative technique that wasn't so obvious. Thanks for taking the time.
I have replaced multiple torx bolt with regular 10 mm bolts for car parts I remove and reinstall on a regular basis. So much easier to repeatedly loosen and tighten back to spec !
Right on! Car manufacturers use torx bolts because they are fast and easy to drive in with a bit driver. Perfect for mass production. But awful for us to get them out. I agree, I always replace them with a hex head bolt.
this fucking works… i was replacing my conductor plate on my benzo and the last bolt stripped on the first turn then i went to a bigger hex then to a grinder and then hopped on youtube… use a vg or wire cutter and hold on tight and twist 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 ty yt
Great suggestion! I agree that if the bolt is not rusted or seized, liquid weld or epoxy may be a possibility. Also, if this is the case, it would be safer for the surrounding materials. Welding can melt or damage glass, plastic, fabric, ...
So I have a stripped out inverted 12mm hex head bolt that it completely stripped. There is no room to weld anything to the top and I don't know what to use to get it out. I felt the bolt pop when I went to take it off but right after the bar slipped and now all it does is spin on the inside. What do you suggest I use to get this bolt out? It is literally the last bolt to remove to take the head off the engine to replace my head gasket.
That’s typical isn’t it, the last bolt is the one that gives you trouble and a half hour job turns into a five hour job. The bolt is torqued down, so it won’t come out easy. You need to be able to get some good torque on it. My first thought is an extractor for rounded off bolt heads. If there is any hex left at all, it may bite in and grab if you pound it on. This should be secure and allow you to use a breaker bar. An example is here: www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1003021030?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-216-_-mechanicstools-_-1003021030-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyryEtfH48AIVowh9Ch0VhwKHEAQYAiABEgLGZfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Worst case, head bolts are long. If you can cut/grind the head off, once you remove the cylinder head, you will have plenty of bolt and room to get it out no problem. That would probably be last resort on my list. Not sure if you have room for that if you don’t have room to weld on a nut though. I would search for a video or forum specifically dealing with a stuck head bolt. Maybe there is a good solution. Let me know how it goes and how you get it out!
The issue I'm having is I can't get a bolt extractor to fit on top, the area where I'm working in is very small and that style extractor won't fit over the top. If I can't get it out then I think im going to pull the motor out and take it to a shop. That's the last thing I want to do. Yes it always seems that it is way it works. It's always the last one that gives you issues.
So I got it out, called a mobile welder and he was able to weld a piece of pipe onto the bolt head and we were able to get it out!! Head is off and on its way to the machine shop!!
I have a torex on my radiator fans that I can’t get off and I’ve tried a few things even the dremel but there’s nothing else I can think of doing and I can’t weld it because it’s stuck under my car, do you have any ideas?
My last resort is to grind the head off, and the part can be removed. And hopefully use vice grips to remove the stud that is still sticking out the tapped hole.
I don’t think the loctite would hold for removing the bolt if it is really seized/rusted in place. You would need to use a left hand thread tap and bolt. The center bolt would be smaller, and there is also the possibility of just twisting the head off of the bolt is severely stuck.
Good Morning my friend and nice to meet you! I love this video its great and very detailed. Im trying to remove 2 cylinder block drain plugs to drain out old contaminated coolant on my 2003 dodge caravan se and i cant remove them at all its tough.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I actually opened the radiator draincock first and drained out the distilled water and coolant and now i have to remove the 2 cylinder block drain plugs to remove all the old contaminated coolant from the block.
@@AlwaysDiagnoseVehicleFirst Interesting. Typically, the radiator drain plug and the lower radiator hose (where it connects to the radiator) should be the lowest point in the system and you should be able to drain the engine block from there. Some blocks have a tapped through holes with plugs for accessories like a thermostat sending unit, but I have not seen a coolant drain plug on a block. But, I am not familiar with that specific engine. Does it require a hex/Allen wrench?
The smallest bolt size that I have used the weld a nut on method was a 1/4-20, which I believe is a T30. T10 would be a very small screw, like a #4. Not likely enough real-estate to weld on a nut. Since it is so small, not much torque should be required to remove it. I would first try getting some type of grip on it. A rubber band between the head and Philipps screwdriver, pushing down very hard, so the rubber band will provide friction for the screwdriver to turn the screw. Whatever you can do without modifying the screw. After that, I would be looking for a way to cut a small slot in the top of the head to use a flat head screwdriver to turn the screw out. It should not take much of a slot, or much torque to remove it since it is so small. But, do what you can without modifying the head first. Maybe there is just enough of a tooth left to jam a flat head of the right size in there as it is. You will find a way. They eventually come out one way or another. When you get it out, replace it with a stainless steel Allen head so you never have to deal with this again. When you get it out, definitely let us know how!
Might have just saved my car, got sum torx screws rusted n chewed up holding my crank gear for the timing belt which I have to removed to change the serpentine
Are these several small screws around the perimeter, or a large screw in the center? Flathead/countersunk screw or socket head cap screw or hex head screw?
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial there were just 2 small screws one came out with ease and the ither one got stripped, I ended up just ripping the steering wheel off and had to cut it but its worth it because i have my quick release on now
@@omarsanchez2436 Nice work! Yeah, that’s pretty much what I would’ve done. Drill the screw heads off, remove the steering wheel, then twist out what’s left of the screw with some voice grips.
My xbox one controller has 5 torque screws and I took out the four outer ones but the middle one is like glued on there and I cannot get it out cause the middle part that sticks out broke off and I dont have any flatheads that fit the screw perfectly so I cannot take apart the controller
For a small screw like that, if the torx shape is damaged or rounded out, your next best option is definitely to use a use a flat head of a perfect size that will fit in there and grip.
Lol. I get it. This is the first video I made. I have come a long way since then with structure and editing. I plan to remake this video in the future,
what kind of screws are they? Do they have a rounded bolt head like the one on the right hand side of the example board in the video or flat\flush headed? What condition do they look like they are in? Since it's the interior I doubt they are rusted but still asking.
@@dragonsword7370 it used to be a torx screw and they are flat headed. It’s so bad that if any random person that sees it won’t even have any idea what it is. It’s a shape as if you were to flip a traffic come upside down and look down into it. It’s not rusty at all. It’s just perfectly smooth. I commented that a week ago and still have yet to get it out
Sorry I missed this! Sounds like you don’t have much room or many options. I would first try to easy-out tool. If that’s not working out, and if you cannot weld a nut on, drill the center out, same diameter as the threaded part of the bolt, until the head is detached, then lift the steering wheel off. There will be screws with no heads left behind. Then use some vice grips to turn what’s left of the screws out. That’s my recommendation.
I’ve personally used it a fair number of times I’m larger and smaller bolts, but primarily on vehicles because that’s where I run into stuck torx bolts.
Hi. The screws on the bottom front panel of my front load washer are rusted and stripped. I need to remove them to take the front panel off to get to the drain pump. Welding is out of the question!! Is there a simpler waY to get them out?? There are 4 star, I think. They may have been phillips heads at one time. They are extremely tight in there. I've tried using just about every tool you can imagine. I also sprayed penetrating oil twice now and they still won't budge!! Help!!
That’s a tough situation. I’ve been there many times. Welding a nut on was the game changer. If you have tried every tool, you are just about out of options. But there are some options that I know of. If you think it is possible to turn the screws out if the Phillips was not stripped out and you could actually get the screwdriver securely seated, an option is to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver. Cut a slot with a dremel or right angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. If you don’t think that will do it, here is one pretty much guaranteed way, but I save it for last resort because there is no going back. Cut off the head, then after you remove whatever the bolt or screw was holding down, hopefully there is enough of the screw sticking out that you can use some vice grips to remove what’s left of the screw. When you get the screw out, replace it with a stainless steel screw and use antiseize so you never have to deal with it again. I hope that helps. Let me know.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thank You! Well, I had thought of that and finally was so frustrated that I called in reinforcement from "the ol man"!! He brought in a side grinder, angle grinder, or as he says, down here in the South, we call it a "zizz wheel"!!! So, yeah, he cut the stupid old screws out for me!! And, Yes, I will definitely be putting some rust resistant ones back in it!! That's CRAZY!! So, my project tonight is taking off the front panel of my washer so I can remove the drain pump and go from there..........Unless I run into another dang Snag!!! Tanks for the suggestion!! Like your channel, will now SUB!
@@janieskelton-christian7652 Awesome! I’m glad you got through it. There is always a way. I recently saw this quote... “Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from becoming a three day ordeal” That sounds about right. I really appreciate the sub. Thanks!
J S Great question. I don’t know for sure. I have not tried that. I have tried loctite metal epoxy, which didn’t work. The nut snapped off. I would suspect that the results would be similar with JB Weld.
That’s not a bolt. It’s a screw. Torx Bolts are the inverse of that head and require a socket. Please retitle so people can actually find the correct help.
You are describing an E-Torx (External Torx) bolt, or also called an Inverted Torx. Search for “E-Torx bolt.” That should give you the correct help to remove your bolt. Also, these are indeed bolts. Not screws. I hope that helps!
Thanks. I get it. This is the first video that I made and would love to redo it. My videos have come a very long way since then. Re-doing this video is on my list.
I’ve tried Craftsman and Irwin. My first Craftsman set came in a nice plastic case/box that had “Craftsman” molded in it. I went to purchase replacements for the ones that had broken over the years but it was cheaper to buy a whole new set. The new set was a flimsy little plastic box that said “china” on it. I don’t have much confidence in them.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial and screw torx bolts too. I literally just finished the wheel bearing on my car a few minutes ago and has to get the torch to get out one of these stupid damn torx bolts. Why were they ever made? Who knows
This was one of the very first videos that I made. I know that it progresses slowly, and isn’t the best; no filming equipment and out of my comfort zone. But, I just dove in and was trying to share helpful information to help people out.
I plan to remake this video at a faster pace with much more detail in the future.!
@Buckwheat Hikes I agree. My POS Chevy equinox driver seat bolts are t50 torx bolts and one of them is stripped and it was torqued down, I suspect it was because the heater core was replaced before. And they would have needed to have removed the driver seat. I'm trying to take them out and so I can detail it extremely.
Best video ever I’m changing the transmission fluid on my 90 Mercedes with only 90k miles & the t30 is completely stripped I don’t think it has ever been taken off imma have to rent another jack & really get under there thanks for the tip!
Mine is between the firewall and the engine and there is barely enough room to fit a socket. Why would you use torx bolts on a car engine, especially on an intake? I wish engine designers had to work on them.
That’s awful. What a mess.
not applicable if the surrounding of the bolt is narrow, plastic or sensitive ...
Thanks for pointing that out! I agree; welding creates extreme heat and will damage plastic or sensitive materials.
Typically, when I experience issues with Torx bolts, it is in an automotive application, where it will not turn because it is rusted into a steel tapped hole. In that case, welding helps to break the bond. Thanks!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial why did they invent torx head bolts anyway if they strip so easy?
@@jameson6930 when installing them, they are easier/faster to mate with a driver tool, less prone to strip, and more torque can be applied. This is an advantage for automobile assembly lines for example. They can quickly and repeatably be rammed right in with a power driver.
However, they can be a real hassle to remove, especially after time if they have rusted.
@@jameson6930 exactly as the videos\channel's author stated. Just referencing the torx head deck screws, if I had a choice I'd spend the extra money on those in a fab. job EVERYtime cause they don't torque out when applying 98% of the time. But for longevity on a vehicle they are a hassle without being stainless steel or some high quality anti rusting. Trying to remove about 6 to 8 on my chevy's tailgate hinges, they are bulbous capped torx heads and one stripped. The other quite literally twisted the torx head bit when applying the ratchet bit on my breaker bar. After applying PB breaker spray 4 times and letting it soak in each time. It's comical in a way.
Get on with it!!! (read with Monte Python enthusiasm).. You could have saved me 8 min and just said "weld a nut". JFC..
For sure. This is the first video that I made. Definitely not my best work. The next time I encounter a stuck bolt worth welding a nut on, I will definitely remake this video!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Sorry, long day of trying to remove stripped torx screws will do this to a man .. I appreciate the video, I was hoping for an alternative technique that wasn't so obvious. Thanks for taking the time.
@@allthetech No problem at all. Best of luck with the Torx screws!
🤔😑
How to buy a welder i dont have any lol
I have replaced multiple torx bolt with regular 10 mm bolts for car parts I remove and reinstall on a regular basis. So much easier to repeatedly loosen and tighten back to spec !
Right on! Car manufacturers use torx bolts because they are fast and easy to drive in with a bit driver. Perfect for mass production.
But awful for us to get them out. I agree, I always replace them with a hex head bolt.
This video was just fine, thank you.
Super helpful
Always works I got this junk out of my jeep
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I hate those damn things 😆
So funny 😅and such a great idea
Glad you enjoyed!
That's the right way to deal with torx bolts lol I just hate them. Have never had any problem with usual hex bolts
Definitely.
Now I need a welder and a slingshot :D
this fucking works… i was replacing my conductor plate on my benzo and the last bolt stripped on the first turn then i went to a bigger hex then to a grinder and then hopped on youtube… use a vg or wire cutter and hold on tight and twist 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 ty yt
can you do this with a metal base?
can't use hex head bolts where you need the flat head because of clearance of objects needing to be bolted on top.
Well done. I'm about to slingshot my neighbors entire car for similar reasons
Lol
Instead of welding, what about liquid weld or super strength epoxy? Might work if the bolt is not rusted or stuck super, super tight...just a thought.
Great suggestion! I agree that if the bolt is not rusted or seized, liquid weld or epoxy may be a possibility. Also, if this is the case, it would be safer for the surrounding materials. Welding can melt or damage glass, plastic, fabric, ...
And you might not have a welder.
So I have a stripped out inverted 12mm hex head bolt that it completely stripped. There is no room to weld anything to the top and I don't know what to use to get it out.
I felt the bolt pop when I went to take it off but right after the bar slipped and now all it does is spin on the inside.
What do you suggest I use to get this bolt out? It is literally the last bolt to remove to take the head off the engine to replace my head gasket.
That’s typical isn’t it, the last bolt is the one that gives you trouble and a half hour job turns into a five hour job.
The bolt is torqued down, so it won’t come out easy. You need to be able to get some good torque on it.
My first thought is an extractor for rounded off bolt heads. If there is any hex left at all, it may bite in and grab if you pound it on. This should be secure and allow you to use a breaker bar. An example is here:
www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-BOLT-GRIP-5-Pack-Bolt-Extractor-Set/1003021030?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-216-_-mechanicstools-_-1003021030-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyryEtfH48AIVowh9Ch0VhwKHEAQYAiABEgLGZfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Worst case, head bolts are long. If you can cut/grind the head off, once you remove the cylinder head, you will have plenty of bolt and room to get it out no problem. That would probably be last resort on my list. Not sure if you have room for that if you don’t have room to weld on a nut though.
I would search for a video or forum specifically dealing with a stuck head bolt. Maybe there is a good solution.
Let me know how it goes and how you get it out!
The issue I'm having is I can't get a bolt extractor to fit on top, the area where I'm working in is very small and that style extractor won't fit over the top. If I can't get it out then I think im going to pull the motor out and take it to a shop. That's the last thing I want to do.
Yes it always seems that it is way it works. It's always the last one that gives you issues.
So I got it out, called a mobile welder and he was able to weld a piece of pipe onto the bolt head and we were able to get it out!! Head is off and on its way to the machine shop!!
@@TJsVette Awesome! Happy to hear that. You are smooth sailing now!
I have a torex on my radiator fans that I can’t get off and I’ve tried a few things even the dremel but there’s nothing else I can think of doing and I can’t weld it because it’s stuck under my car, do you have any ideas?
My last resort is to grind the head off, and the part can be removed. And hopefully use vice grips to remove the stud that is still sticking out the tapped hole.
What are your thoughts on drilling a hole, thread tapping it, finding a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt with matching threads, and red locktite it together?
I don’t think the loctite would hold for removing the bolt if it is really seized/rusted in place. You would need to use a left hand thread tap and bolt. The center bolt would be smaller, and there is also the possibility of just twisting the head off of the bolt is severely stuck.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I gave it a go and it didn't work. Beating a chisel and using vice grips did way better.
@@frieza625 Nice! Glad you got it sorted out!
Welded nuts
That’s what happens when I sit in my hot car seat .. aaahhhhh
😂
Good Morning my friend and nice to meet you! I love this video its great and very detailed. Im trying to remove 2 cylinder block drain plugs to drain out old contaminated coolant on my 2003 dodge caravan se and i cant remove them at all its tough.
Hello! To drain the coolant, I would looking for a drain plug in the bottom of the radiator, or disconnecting the bottom radiator hose (hose clamp).
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I actually opened the radiator draincock first and drained out the distilled water and coolant and now i have to remove the 2 cylinder block drain plugs to remove all the old contaminated coolant from the block.
@@AlwaysDiagnoseVehicleFirst Interesting. Typically, the radiator drain plug and the lower radiator hose (where it connects to the radiator) should be the lowest point in the system and you should be able to drain the engine block from there. Some blocks have a tapped through holes with plugs for accessories like a thermostat sending unit, but I have not seen a coolant drain plug on a block. But, I am not familiar with that specific engine.
Does it require a hex/Allen wrench?
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial It sure does require a hex/allen wrench yes sir 💚👍
What if it smaller? Like T10? One on my gun is basically just a circle now with no teeth.
The smallest bolt size that I have used the weld a nut on method was a 1/4-20, which I believe is a T30. T10 would be a very small screw, like a #4. Not likely enough real-estate to weld on a nut.
Since it is so small, not much torque should be required to remove it.
I would first try getting some type of grip on it. A rubber band between the head and Philipps screwdriver, pushing down very hard, so the rubber band will provide friction for the screwdriver to turn the screw. Whatever you can do without modifying the screw.
After that, I would be looking for a way to cut a small slot in the top of the head to use a flat head screwdriver to turn the screw out. It should not take much of a slot, or much torque to remove it since it is so small.
But, do what you can without modifying the head first. Maybe there is just enough of a tooth left to jam a flat head of the right size in there as it is.
You will find a way. They eventually come out one way or another.
When you get it out, replace it with a stainless steel Allen head so you never have to deal with this again.
When you get it out, definitely let us know how!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thanks for the advice! I can't stand torx bits.
@@BruceWillisiscool
No problem!
@@BruceWillisiscool try good ones like wiha,snap on ect. Chinese tools cause the problems that this video was made for.
Might have just saved my car, got sum torx screws rusted n chewed up holding my crank gear for the timing belt which I have to removed to change the serpentine
That should do it! Make sure to block or mask off any sensitive materials so the weld splatter doesn’t ruin anything.
got a T40 on my thermostat housing with a fuel line right above it. Well here goes all my money and my weeky paycheck .
My steering wheel screw is stripped how can I remove it without having to weld anything on it, I already tried the rubber band method as well
Are these several small screws around the perimeter, or a large screw in the center? Flathead/countersunk screw or socket head cap screw or hex head screw?
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial there were just 2 small screws one came out with ease and the ither one got stripped, I ended up just ripping the steering wheel off and had to cut it but its worth it because i have my quick release on now
@@omarsanchez2436 Nice work! Yeah, that’s pretty much what I would’ve done. Drill the screw heads off, remove the steering wheel, then twist out what’s left of the screw with some voice grips.
My xbox one controller has 5 torque screws and I took out the four outer ones but the middle one is like glued on there and I cannot get it out cause the middle part that sticks out broke off and I dont have any flatheads that fit the screw perfectly so I cannot take apart the controller
For a small screw like that, if the torx shape is damaged or rounded out, your next best option is definitely to use a use a flat head of a perfect size that will fit in there and grip.
didnt have one and it took a lot of effort to open with a flat head that was bigger but it was all for nothing it just ruined my controller 🙁
How long a video is this gonna be?
Lol. I get it. This is the first video I made. I have come a long way since then with structure and editing. I plan to remake this video in the future,
I need to take my steering wheel off because I got a new one. There’s one on each side and it’s a tight fit. I can’t get them out
what kind of screws are they? Do they have a rounded bolt head like the one on the right hand side of the example board in the video or flat\flush headed?
What condition do they look like they are in? Since it's the interior I doubt they are rusted but still asking.
@@dragonsword7370 it used to be a torx screw and they are flat headed. It’s so bad that if any random person that sees it won’t even have any idea what it is. It’s a shape as if you were to flip a traffic come upside down and look down into it. It’s not rusty at all. It’s just perfectly smooth. I commented that a week ago and still have yet to get it out
Sorry I missed this! Sounds like you don’t have much room or many options.
I would first try to easy-out tool. If that’s not working out, and if you cannot weld a nut on, drill the center out, same diameter as the threaded part of the bolt, until the head is detached, then lift the steering wheel off. There will be screws with no heads left behind. Then use some vice grips to turn what’s left of the screws out. That’s my recommendation.
This solution only works in a very very extremely limited number of scenarios
I’ve personally used it a fair number of times I’m larger and smaller bolts, but primarily on vehicles because that’s where I run into stuck torx bolts.
Hi. The screws on the bottom front panel of my front load washer are rusted and stripped. I need to remove them to take the front panel off to get to the drain pump. Welding is out of the question!! Is there a simpler waY to get them out?? There are 4 star, I think. They may have been phillips heads at one time. They are extremely tight in there. I've tried using just about every tool you can imagine. I also sprayed penetrating oil twice now and they still won't budge!! Help!!
That’s a tough situation. I’ve been there many times. Welding a nut on was the game changer.
If you have tried every tool, you are just about out of options. But there are some options that I know of.
If you think it is possible to turn the screws out if the Phillips was not stripped out and you could actually get the screwdriver securely seated, an option is to cut a slot in the head and use a flat screwdriver. Cut a slot with a dremel or right angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel.
If you don’t think that will do it, here is one pretty much guaranteed way, but I save it for last resort because there is no going back. Cut off the head, then after you remove whatever the bolt or screw was holding down, hopefully there is enough of the screw sticking out that you can use some vice grips to remove what’s left of the screw.
When you get the screw out, replace it with a stainless steel screw and use antiseize so you never have to deal with it again.
I hope that helps. Let me know.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial Thank You! Well, I had thought of that and finally was so frustrated that I called in reinforcement from "the ol man"!! He brought in a side grinder, angle grinder, or as he says, down here in the South, we call it a "zizz wheel"!!! So, yeah, he cut the stupid old screws out for me!! And, Yes, I will definitely be putting some rust resistant ones back in it!! That's CRAZY!! So, my project tonight is taking off the front panel of my washer so I can remove the drain pump and go from there..........Unless I run into another dang Snag!!! Tanks for the suggestion!! Like your channel, will now SUB!
@@janieskelton-christian7652 Awesome! I’m glad you got through it. There is always a way.
I recently saw this quote... “Every 20 minute job is one broken bolt away from becoming a three day ordeal” That sounds about right.
I really appreciate the sub. Thanks!
Would JB weld work instead of the welder?
J S Great question. I don’t know for sure. I have not tried that. I have tried loctite metal epoxy, which didn’t work. The nut snapped off. I would suspect that the results would be similar with JB Weld.
Omg how do people put up with this happens all the time
That’s not a bolt. It’s a screw. Torx Bolts are the inverse of that head and require a socket. Please retitle so people can actually find the correct help.
You are describing an E-Torx (External Torx) bolt, or also called an Inverted Torx.
Search for “E-Torx bolt.” That should give you the correct help to remove your bolt.
Also, these are indeed bolts. Not screws. I hope that helps!
Use an angle grinder to turn it into a flathead screw.
Yes sir! Thanks for sharing! I made a video for that as well!
ruclips.net/video/CKjt5NgwCyw/видео.html
Not helpful at all, but thanks for trying. The aluminum bolt on my serpentine belt tensioner is located between a rock and a hard place.
That’s a tough one. I hope it goes well!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial
Thanks, I'll let you know.
Xbox360 torx got stripped somehow so yea that sucks
Definitely no welding or easy outs on that. Try a small flat head screwdriver. You may be able to force it in and get it to catch and turn it.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial will attempt thanks
I wish this test would just give you an answer and stop talking
Thanks. I get it. This is the first video that I made and would love to redo it. My videos have come a very long way since then. Re-doing this video is on my list.
Why in gods name are these bolts ever used? These are the WORST and strip so easily.
Fast, easy, repeatable installation during manufacturing. Just zip them in. Then, it’s the consumer’s problem to get them out.
7 minutes and 36 seconds of my life...completely lost 😑
I get it. This was one of the first videos I made. Definitely need to re-film this one. Thanks for watching.
Weak.
Easy outs useless
I hate EZ outs. They break so often. Maybe there's a expensive brand that doesn't break idk
I’ve tried Craftsman and Irwin.
My first Craftsman set came in a nice plastic case/box that had “Craftsman” molded in it.
I went to purchase replacements for the ones that had broken over the years but it was cheaper to buy a whole new set. The new set was a flimsy little plastic box that said “china” on it. I don’t have much confidence in them.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial and screw torx bolts too. I literally just finished the wheel bearing on my car a few minutes ago and has to get the torch to get out one of these stupid damn torx bolts. Why were they ever made? Who knows