To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation “Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!! Dude. Thanks.
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time. I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
I usually use the torx trick. A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on RUclips, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
All my fastners are usually flush. So I'd have no socket option. i.e. steering wheels, batteries, seat mounts... I'm always looking for the best to get them from the top only?
This is exactly the video I needed, I have two stripped and frozen Allen fasteners holding a thermostat in my motorcycle that has sat for nearly a decade… unfortunately all I have are the stripped Allen extractors and my Allen heads are too far gone or I don’t have the proper size, but I just can’t get the damn things out. Looks like I need to take a trip to the hardware store 😞
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
i usually have the best luck using the Dremel to create a slot which also heats up a bolt really good and might even unsettle lock tied if used and even expand the hole where the bolt is screwed in. i have to admit that it can also cause for the bolt to split in half when trying to undo it with a flatheaded screwdriver or other tool that fits. and then a drill is needed after all.
I’m assuming you mean the Doyle branded one, right? Yes I have it and the regular Pittsburgh and an older Craftsman USA for fun. Still waiting for the Amazon one to come in so that one is a week or so out🤫
@@ClientGraphics no... www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-professional-adjustable-wrenches-93943.html I believe ones above have better construction than normal Pittsburgh wrenches, perhaps even Doyle
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
I have a small M2 or M3 set or grub screw in my bike hydraulic fill/bleed hole. It is lock-tighted in so much by the factory that the normal hex key rounded it first try. I don't want to use heat because there's an o-ring and hydraulic fluid in there and plastic components around it. Do they make removal tools small enough for M2 set or grub screws? Another suggestion you didn't cover is to use adhesive like epoxy or JB weld to bond the hex key to the screw, but I like the idea of hammering in a larger bit.
Those "mushroom head" Allen bolts are a real PITA. If they decide to seize, the torque necessary to dislodge them far exceeds not only what their -now stripped- slot could exercise, but also anything you can carve or try to grip them with. Bolt extractors are usually no good because of the mushroom's shallow depth, giving them no purchase. What has always worked for me was to simply drill through the bolt (with an undersized drill bit!) and THEN try to hanmer a bolt extractor in there. TONS of grip in this case, nothing otherwise
What if you have a heavily rusted and stripped bolt that's recessed? I literally don't have anything to grab on to. Do I have to just drill it out? What if it's so fused in there that I end up with a hollow rusty bolt stuck in a deep recess?
How about when the cheap metal "head" has just about disintegrated and there's only the threaded part left? I suppose I could drill into the threaded part with a smaller bit and then try one of these methods. I'm concerned the entire crappy screw will completely disintegrate at that point. Any other idea at that point, other than drilling the whole works out and then tapping for a new screw?
Replacing the diverter valve on my Audi A4 and stripped out 2 of the hex screws. Barely any room. Got one out with a vise grip and the other with Irwin bolt extractors
I once had stripped a hex screw on a new harley and I did not want to do any pounding and no space for plier, I have a solution that I have not seen anywhere else and works more reliably the any of these methods, but you sacrifice one cheap bit! that is glue a barely fit bit in the socket using the strongest glue you can buy at auto parts store and next day use impact to get it out. This least likely to damage anything. I need to patent this method!
This is a lab environment. Try that in a tight engine bay. Some rounded rusted hex bolts in the Engine Block with minimal clearance to hammer with thread locker in place. Lets see. :) Given this ample space, I could have just removed them with Vise Grips or welded a nut to that hex screw. Easy peasy. :)
My bolt is stuck on the side of my motorcycle engine. I tried the torques bit. I can’t hammer but so much unfortunately. The bolt is also partially sunk in and in too tight of a spot for any time of pliers
This is really good. I have countersunk hex slot bolts they I want to get off. The hex slots are rounded so I'm going to try the torx bit method. Can you use an air powered impact driver or is that too aggressive? You can't control the speed of the impact driver. I'd buy an electric one if that was safer to use. I do have an impact drill so would that work as well as a dedicated impact driver?
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
I have never used them myself, but that is what I've seen from the comparisons like here and over at Project Farm. However, the bolt extractors (the ones that look like sockets and have those same teeth just on the inside) work REALLY well. Even the cheap DeWalt ones from Home depot did well for me. I have nothing against DeWalt other than their price tag, but they really aren't the "industry standard" in mechanics tools like ratchets or bolt extractors.
@@scytheakse well glad they work for you but they don't work for 99 percent of us mechanics there normally to soft and or the fasteners are to damaged to use them
@@woodworkerroyer8497 bolt extractors work very well and project farm does great videos screw extractors on the other hand like speed out brand and there 4 different metal variants dont work 99 percent or more of the time and if you get them to work then the tool is harder then the screw
Hi, I have a woodchipper with pretty badly stripped allen bolts that are around 7mm big. What type of extractor would you recommend I try to get those out? Thank you-
Hello there I just subscribed and hit the bell. Yesterday I was working on my drone and it started to round out a hex head. I'm not sure what size fastener this is but it's fairly small. I may try the torx bit if I have one of those. This is not something I can hammer on because the fastener goes into plastic. So perhaps tonight I'll try something on it. Do you have any suggestions ? Thanks. Keith
Since your bolt is already destroyed, which is why you're using any of these methods, use a bolt extractor socket. They make some marks on the outside of the cap head but so what. They have an absolute grip on the bolt that gets tighter as you increase the torque to remove the bolt in question, which is far more than most of these methods do. There's no drilling, no welding, no clamping, to question of breaking the tool.
I don’t typically check out Napa Carlyle items as most of the extractor items will be rebrands of something. There really aren’t too many hex Allen specific tools like the two that I first test in the video. I would say both work as described.
the problem I run across is usually these stripped allen/torx fasteners are on a vehicle and have only 2-3 inches of clearance - if that, and most of the stripped bolt removers can't be fitted into them, or even if they can fit by hand, there isn't room to hammer them in, let alone get a power tool. I wish automotive engineers would just stick to regular bolts instead of the annoying allen/torx ones
Yes it is highly annoying. As a mechanical designer we end up using some exotic fasteners because of other design constraints like lack of room or better performance. We use a work around and that creates problems for the maintenance person or repairers down the line. But we got our job out on time ;) Tbh a lot of the time the person speccing the fittings wasn't the one who started the design.
Does it have to be an impact drill? Whomever assembled my mountain bike messed up the rear breaks and since they used power tools to assemble it, it came all pre stripped from head to toe(even the added accessories I had added were stripped.
Best luck I have had is beat a socket or wrench on the head of the bolt. And put as much downward pressure on the bolt as possible and slow consistent pressure on the wrench or ratchet (never an impact to remove stripped fasteners)
![DDG & G Herbo - Nosey [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9Ra0Zc2NlQ/mqdefault.jpg)
To make it more real, cover it in rust, make it cold outside, and give yourself 1 inches of space to work. Or do as I do. To remove the fastener...Take 5 of your tools and throw them away. Sit in the corner for 4 hours. Take a hammer and bust up the area around the fastener. Make sure your finger gets cut. Then, weld a nut on it, making sure to overheat something next to the bolt. Make sure you strip the treads on that welded nut, and then, go out and buy a cobalt drill bit (Way bigger than the fastener) and drill out everything, ruining the part. Then, order a new part. Easy peazy! :) Seriously though, I've used the torx bit hammered in the hole several times before. For me, the ez-outs either don't grab, or they shatter. But it's probably because I have cheap ones.
My sentiment exactly, doing the suggested " unscrewing" in a tight space,on a rusty bolt rarely works as one wishes.It ends usually with the screw head broken evenly ,flush with a surface
LOL!!!!
my entire mood in one comment lol
😂🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂
Some good choices. One thing to remember is esp with cars, you might have very little clearance so hammering or using an impact wrench might not even be possible.
People who actually work on stuff and not just make veidos know this.
It's not even just cars. MOST stripped screws, bolts and nuts are in tight places, because they are harder to properly reach in the first place. Yet, most examples have a cleanly accessible bolt... In my case, the hex screw is in a toddler three-wheel step, in a hole, surrounded by plastic. I'm not a guy with multiple bits ratchet bits of every kind either, so sacrificial bits are not my forte. I don't have a welding kit either. In fact, the sacrificial hex key (the low-quality kind coming with whatever purchase you make, like the freaking wheels of the very step in my case) being glued to the bolt seems the best option...
Absolute hero! Worked on a bolt I’d been raging over for hours - thanks!
So glad I watched this. Had a $45 dollar crimp tool with interchangeable jaws held in place by two button head socket head cap screws(learned that lingo from you). One of the screws was frozen in place and I stripped hex attempting removal. Tried tapping in a triple square driver per your recommendation and it too stripped. Went to yet a larger diameter triple square driver tapped into place and VOILA, with a distinct click, out came the sticky screw. Until I get a replacement screw, I'll just store the triple square driver with the crimping tool. Made my day.
Used a torx bit and the stripped hex nut came out easily. Thanks so much for the tips!
Thank you! I was desperate and thinking of buying a whole new bed because of one stripped hex screw but you save me the trouble!
Flexing screw head and using flat head screwdriver worked best for me. Great video, thanks for advice
Been trying to get a hex bolt loose for 3 days until I came across this. Just so happen to have a torx bit socket set on hand. Worked easy the first time. Thanks bro
I removed the damaged torque bolt by hammering a bigger size torx bit inside it and then removed easily.
Yes use one of them when a hex is tripped. Works wonders
Thanks for the help ! Had a couple of stripped Allen hex bolts that I couldn't get out. found something close that could fit, and hammered it in a bit... was able to get 'em right out !
Only problem with the pliers and grinder method is these socket Allen caps are usually recessed inside something so best bet most of the time is a torx or triple square bit socket but all of these are great methods good job Chris @ClientGraphics
For sure that can be the difficulty. Thankfully they make long and extra long torx and triple squares🤣🤣
@@ClientGraphics exactly bro 💯
Yep the mechanic I take my car to has 'accidentally' completely butchered my recessed M8 brake disc screw (highly suspicious as he's very experienced), so when I went to replace my disks I hit a brick wall but I actually have a T45 bit in my tool box to try on it tomorrow!
@@aries6776 best of luck getting that sucker out
Here’s an old Red Green quote (you’ve probably heard one of his sayings like “A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t”) but this one fits this situation
“Remember, I’m pulling for you. We’re all in this together”! Lol
I stripped one of these metric hex bolts by using imperial wrench on a hex cap bolt with loctite on it. When I was about to use one of these destructive methods you suggested, I recalled I have a pair of Vampilers and it worked.
I've got a rounded out M8 Triple Square Socket bolt to deal with, I think I'll look for a slightly bigger sized Hex bit and mallet that in before using the impact driver to try take it off. Interesting tricks and techniques, thanks for sharing !! A great and informative video.
Did it work?
Yeah!!!!! You are a genius. It worked. I've been trying to remove this f#cking screw forever!!! Countless videos and this one worked!!! Thank you!!!!
Dude. Thanks.
I use the torx method most often. Sometimes I will use the left hand drill bit to slightly drill the hole larger to go up a size in torx. Hammer it in about 1/8th of an inch. Take a 3/8 impact and feather the trigger while pressing hard on the back of the tool. Works most of the time.
I find this works best with electronic impacts since they often can be made to go slower.
I've got an air impact driver. Is it a bit dangerous to use of these with a torx bit to remove stuck countersunk bolts? I don't want to make the situation worse than it already is. I could buy an electric driver with variable speed if it is more likely to work.
Thanks! Drilling out the center of the hex bolt then tapping in a triple square did the trick!
On a countersunk screw, the Torx bit method worked like a charm on my first atttempt. Thank you!
This video needs some kind of RUclips Oscar!
I doubted you for a minute the first couple didn’t work for me but you came thru in the end! Thanks
I ran into this problem on my sway bar linkage, next time I'll give these a go. Thank you sir for tips to try in a jam. As always great video.
You never know when you can use these tips. Sway bar links are a good example since they can directly be in the elements with salt and other materials that cause them to rust and round out easier.
I usually use the torx trick.
A more unconventional method I've used was to hit it at an angle with a center punch. The point of the punch will dig into the screw, and the sudden shock works like an impact driver to break loose the fastener. You may need to hit it several times, working your way around the outside edge of the head.
I have not personally tried that method due to time and patience. But I hear it can work.
Thanks for sharing. A good technique to have in the back pocket.
I have started to use a torque wrench to get it right. Great video
Thank you so much! I used the torx method and it worked like a charm. Great $4 spent.
Just wanted to say big thanks for this video it helped me out I used the Torx bit and hammer and impact gun to remove allen key head cap from throttle body so thanks again
Cringed at all the hammering on your digital torque wrench.
They are fairly hardy as it’s just a 3” extension with strain gauges. I’d be more worried about dropping it and cracking the lcd or housing. For what they are they are pretty cheap and highly accurate and I can throw it in my certified one any time to validate it’s still good.
Im glad i wasnt the only one who got shiver down my spine when i saw that
Yeah me too
Me too🥺😳
What about Welding on it lol?
The only thing I would add is that you might find an imperial allen key works as an intermediate in a rounded out metric socket head. For example I have a M8 rounded out screw which needs an 6mm allen key but a 1/4" (6.35mm) would be easier to hammer in there than a 7mm allen key.
Thanks for your help. I hammered in a torx bit and was able to unscrew the bolt.
Thanks for the very helpful tips!! I can now attempt 2 x fastener on the worn disc , on my motorcycle. I never knew the various options. Much appreciated 🙏😊
Three sides socket worked great thanks you saved my life ! My Allen bolt rounded on my e46 pressure plate lol
I've always used a hex bit and Hammered it down in the hole. I took out a exhaust manifold bolt that had snapped in half leaving the remnants in the valve head body, i drilled out a hole just big enough to fit the bit in snug and the rest was easy day. Have used that method several times now. Love your vids
Yes mate thanks for the advice that little suckers out now thanks 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really good video brother, this helped me out a lot. Thanks!
Thanks a lot the triple square worked for an over tightened factory drive shaft hex bolt that had loctite on it. Got me out of a jam.
Man thanks a lot, I had hard time with stripped hex 3mm bolt probably rounded close to 1/8" bolt and the T15 torx did the trick! :))
Thank you so much! My boyfriend and I were struggling with a stubborn stripped screw for HOURS. Went home, searched for help on RUclips, came across your video, went back, tried one of your suggestions and BAM out in 1 minute! I am so grateful for your help sir!
Yea. I'm still in the bind
All my fastners are usually flush. So I'd have no socket option. i.e. steering wheels, batteries, seat mounts... I'm always looking for the best to get them from the top only?
This is exactly the video I needed, I have two stripped and frozen Allen fasteners holding a thermostat in my motorcycle that has sat for nearly a decade… unfortunately all I have are the stripped Allen extractors and my Allen heads are too far gone or I don’t have the proper size, but I just can’t get the damn things out. Looks like I need to take a trip to the hardware store 😞
OMG! So glad I found this. I'm putting together a monitor stand for working at home and TWO of the hex screws were stripped. Since they were really small, I was able to use some ordinary pliers from a generic tool kit I already had.
Thanks. I ended up drilling out the sunken 8mm hex and then hammering on a 12mm triple square; the bugger came off once I'd got the ugga dugga onto it. 😊
that intro got me hyped to remove stripped bolts
Thank you for sharing these tip. Very helpful!
Hands down the best video out there. Thank you!
Internal wrenching socket head cap screw is what I have seen listings for bolt people instead of Allen head. Bolts which is a brand as we know
Why is this so relaxing to watch....😆. Anywho great video
Got one unstuck by using the torx bit, thanks for the tip.
Thanks! I used one of your suggestions and it worked!
I see you tightening it with the cobra pliers and I’m thinking, hmm...what about loosening it with those. Then you do. Ha!
my thoughts too
i usually have the best luck using the Dremel to create a slot which also heats up a bolt really good and might even unsettle lock tied if used and even expand the hole where the bolt is screwed in.
i have to admit that it can also cause for the bolt to split in half when trying to undo it with a flatheaded screwdriver or other tool that fits. and then a drill is needed after all.
7:49 Please add the HF laser etched one to that review / test if you haven't filmed it already...
I’m assuming you mean the Doyle branded one, right? Yes I have it and the regular Pittsburgh and an older Craftsman USA for fun. Still waiting for the Amazon one to come in so that one is a week or so out🤫
@@ClientGraphics no... www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-professional-adjustable-wrenches-93943.html
I believe ones above have better construction than normal Pittsburgh wrenches, perhaps even Doyle
Not a real world test. Try it on a real car that has seen ten winters in Minnesota. These were all clean threads. When I did a brake job on my '14 car, the threads on the caliper were all brown rusted. Fortunately it was a bolt head.
I have a small M2 or M3 set or grub screw in my bike hydraulic fill/bleed hole. It is lock-tighted in so much by the factory that the normal hex key rounded it first try. I don't want to use heat because there's an o-ring and hydraulic fluid in there and plastic components around it. Do they make removal tools small enough for M2 set or grub screws? Another suggestion you didn't cover is to use adhesive like epoxy or JB weld to bond the hex key to the screw, but I like the idea of hammering in a larger bit.
Great video man, very informative
Those "mushroom head" Allen bolts are a real PITA. If they decide to seize, the torque necessary to dislodge them far exceeds not only what their -now stripped- slot could exercise, but also anything you can carve or try to grip them with. Bolt extractors are usually no good because of the mushroom's shallow depth, giving them no purchase. What has always worked for me was to simply drill through the bolt (with an undersized drill bit!) and THEN try to hanmer a bolt extractor in there. TONS of grip in this case, nothing otherwise
Very Nice! Hands on creative solutions to real world problems! Well done! Like always!
Thanks Joe for watching and commenting.
awesome thanks , worked on a bolt on a guitar I needed to remove .
Is that highly calibrated Quinn device OK with being hammered like that?
What if you have a heavily rusted and stripped bolt that's recessed? I literally don't have anything to grab on to. Do I have to just drill it out? What if it's so fused in there that I end up with a hollow rusty bolt stuck in a deep recess?
From the metric tools part. What if that type of bolt is stripped? How can I remove that?
I used a socket the 12 point one and it worked
Good video really glad that the XTR is getting alot of use
Kobalt XTR gets used a lot. When I need lots of power and torque it’s my go to 1/4” hex impact.
I think the damaged fastener would come loose if the xtr just looks at it.
How about when the cheap metal "head" has just about disintegrated and there's only the threaded part left? I suppose I could drill into the threaded part with a smaller bit and then try one of these methods. I'm concerned the entire crappy screw will completely disintegrate at that point. Any other idea at that point, other than drilling the whole works out and then tapping for a new screw?
Replacing the diverter valve on my Audi A4 and stripped out 2 of the hex screws. Barely any room. Got one out with a vise grip and the other with Irwin bolt extractors
Useful info, thanks. Can you do a video on how to do the same on a buttonhead m6x70 mm bolt?
I once had stripped a hex screw on a new harley and I did not want to do any pounding and no space for plier, I have a solution that I have not seen anywhere else and works more reliably the any of these methods, but you sacrifice one cheap bit! that is glue a barely fit bit in the socket using the strongest glue you can buy at auto parts store and next day use impact to get it out. This least likely to damage anything. I need to patent this method!
Work smarter not harder. Words to live by. By the way I think you meant to say impart not embark . Great video.
This is a lab environment. Try that in a tight engine bay. Some rounded rusted hex bolts in the Engine Block with minimal clearance to hammer with thread locker in place. Lets see. :) Given this ample space, I could have just removed them with Vise Grips or welded a nut to that hex screw. Easy peasy. :)
Thank you for this demo
left hand drill bits work better when they are turned in the correct position.
Stripped Torx, heat treated button head, securing brake rotor, torqued & thread locked into painted/powder coated alloy wheel?
No homo bro but I love you. 🤣 Amazing ass video !
Thank you.
I have the base stripped, not the socket head. No matter how much I turn the screw it won't catch. What do I do?
My bolt is stuck on the side of my motorcycle engine. I tried the torques bit. I can’t hammer but so much unfortunately. The bolt is also partially sunk in and in too tight of a spot for any time of pliers
This is really good. I have countersunk hex slot bolts they I want to get off. The hex slots are rounded so I'm going to try the torx bit method. Can you use an air powered impact driver or is that too aggressive? You can't control the speed of the impact driver. I'd buy an electric one if that was safer to use. I do have an impact drill so would that work as well as a dedicated impact driver?
hey man great video... I want to ask you though what triple square are you using in the video and also what mm hex is that you are trying to remove? thanks man!
Excellent video!!
The easy outs like speed out you can find at home depot they never ever work don't waist 14 bucks or even 30 bucks on them from my experience
I have never used them myself, but that is what I've seen from the comparisons like here and over at Project Farm.
However, the bolt extractors (the ones that look like sockets and have those same teeth just on the inside) work REALLY well. Even the cheap DeWalt ones from Home depot did well for me.
I have nothing against DeWalt other than their price tag, but they really aren't the "industry standard" in mechanics tools like ratchets or bolt extractors.
I've used the speed outs several times on my life, last one I used is still stuck in the fastener somewhere on the ranch..
@@scytheakse well glad they work for you but they don't work for 99 percent of us mechanics there normally to soft and or the fasteners are to damaged to use them
@@woodworkerroyer8497 bolt extractors work very well and project farm does great videos screw extractors on the other hand like speed out brand and there 4 different metal variants dont work 99 percent or more of the time and if you get them to work then the tool is harder then the screw
They worked when I used them
Thanks this video helped me 2 years later..torx bit worked for me
Hi, I have a woodchipper with pretty badly stripped allen bolts that are around 7mm big. What type of extractor would you recommend I try to get those out? Thank you-
Hello there
I just subscribed and hit the bell.
Yesterday I was working on my drone and it started to round out a hex head.
I'm not sure what size fastener this is but it's fairly small.
I may try the torx bit if I have one of those. This is not something I can hammer on because the fastener goes into plastic. So perhaps tonight I'll try something on it. Do you have any suggestions ?
Thanks. Keith
This is great. Can you recommend the best tool to remove a t40 torx screw?
How about the screw deep inside the motorcycle cover set?????
Nothing worked for me unfortunately. 5mm hex sunk inside mountain bike crank. Can it be drilled out?
What if the head isn’t exposed and I don’t have clearance to use a hammer? (Under a motorcycle)
I believe the torque bit worked
And what if you put too much torque on there and you break the bit how do you get it out?
Grind it flat and move on to plan B!
Does this work with rounded torx screws ?
Since your bolt is already destroyed, which is why you're using any of these methods, use a bolt extractor socket. They make some marks on the outside of the cap head but so what. They have an absolute grip on the bolt that gets tighter as you increase the torque to remove the bolt in question, which is far more than most of these methods do. There's no drilling, no welding, no clamping, to question of breaking the tool.
I'm dealing with a broken spark plug but my problem is the metal ring I smashed it a bit
Does "CARLISLE" Offer a Bolt Extraction Bit that would work?
I don’t typically check out Napa Carlyle items as most of the extractor items will be rebrands of something. There really aren’t too many hex Allen specific tools like the two that I first test in the video. I would say both work as described.
the problem I run across is usually these stripped allen/torx fasteners are on a vehicle and have only 2-3 inches of clearance - if that, and most of the stripped bolt removers can't be fitted into them, or even if they can fit by hand, there isn't room to hammer them in, let alone get a power tool. I wish automotive engineers would just stick to regular bolts instead of the annoying allen/torx ones
Yes it is highly annoying. As a mechanical designer we end up using some exotic fasteners because of other design constraints like lack of room or better performance. We use a work around and that creates problems for the maintenance person or repairers down the line. But we got our job out on time ;) Tbh a lot of the time the person speccing the fittings wasn't the one who started the design.
Awesome teaching vid ty
Does it have to be an impact drill? Whomever assembled my mountain bike messed up the rear breaks and since they used power tools to assemble it, it came all pre stripped from head to toe(even the added accessories I had added were stripped.
Just resort to a ratchet handle and a hammer if you need to!
Any cost effective alternatives than the Original Post?
great video my frend liked and subbed
Help with hex screw what to use
Mine sound like A 22 going off when I was loosening then. People who owned it before made sure they weren't going anywhere
Everyone wish me luck. Have to get a heavily rusted, completely stripped (what used to be a hex head) M15...... that's torqued to about 133ft lbs.
Best luck I have had is beat a socket or wrench on the head of the bolt. And put as much downward pressure on the bolt as possible and slow consistent pressure on the wrench or ratchet (never an impact to remove stripped fasteners)
I need help with ways to get crankshaft bolt lose it’s kinda stripped rhoigh