Good job. I'd only suggest when you bleed brakes, always start with the farthest from master cylinder work your way in bleeding the next longest line... That might save you a little time next go around.
Great work thus far guys, been following you all since the white Rubicon build. Its been a great ride. Keep it up n looking forward to seeing more stuff from you guys as your channel grows.
a happy medium in the steering arm would be a stock xj arm also the t case drop is not necessary with the slip yoke eliminator and cv drive shaft that you have
Y'all do very good work. I just showed your site to a colleague in the video production business. Told him that you two are doing some very fun and innovative things and are quite entertaining.
You should look at an air powered brake bleeder with as much work as you all are going on these rebuilds. I have the snap one one personally(BB9008KIT) but you can get it from multiple brands including harbor freight on the cheap end. Makes clearing air out and cycling in clean fluid a lot easier and faster.
When you guys bleed your brakes you always start at the rear one farthest away from from the master cylinder. So it would go rear right and do the rear left and do the front right then to the front left. That's the best way to bleed it to get the best results get all the air out of line.
You guys do a great job one thing about the brakes though you bleed from farthest to nearest on the master cylinder so that would be rear right rear left front right front left
I could be wrong, or you may have corrected, but looked like rear track bar was upside down? Not a jeep guy, but I think, like front, it will need to be on a more level angle with diff? Looks like the bend in it is for that...
For future reference when you’re bleeding your brakes always start with the fartherest tire away from the master cylinder and then work in from passenger rear ,driver rear ,passenger front ,driver front
Love the channel . Should do a little more research on setting up the steering though. You want that drop pitman arm to help with bump steer. Try to keep the drag link and tie rod as parallel as possible for best steering geometry. Also, if that’s a factory rubicon, it has electronic lockers, not air lockers. Keep the builds coming! 🤘
check out metalcloak control arms for some super beefy control arms. its what i have on my TJ. But if you wanna save money a lot of people are going with CORE 4x4 and theres like 3 different versions of the controls arms you can get
Looks good but those aren't factory lower control arms, look like they are from a cheap lift kit. With that front track bar I would stay with a short arm lift. The drop pitman arm is meant to be used with a double shear track bar bracket which provides a frame side drop, long arm stuff. The track bar and drag link should be as close to parallel as possible. Just a note, the heim style steering will wear out super fast depending on the quality of the heims used. Check for play at least every oil change.
I think your tie rod (link, Pittman arm to rt.steering knuckle) needs to be reversed with the short ell bow underslung on the Pittman and the Heim over top of the knuckle eye ? Something just doesn't look right, drag link looks good.
“Technically” when you bleed the brakes you should start with the farthest from the master cylinder, so the Rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger, and front driver. Although if your pedal is firm, you should be fine
if that jeep has abs then you actually press and hold the pedal to bleed the brakes but non abs you can pump them. this procedure goes for any vehicle with abs.
Somehow I just discovered this channel....from one jeep nut to (two) others, this is a badass channel!!! I wanna invite y’all to come down to Jeepfest in Georgia this September on me!! I can get y’all in for free and get y’all free camping 👍🏻
It looks like the bolt on the Currie arm is not tight. I always start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder first. Your track bar and drag link(bar from pitman to knuckle) should be the same angle or you will have bump steer. The stock arm does look a lot closer. That's just a fyi so you know why it was suggested.
goonzquad These ECU's are extremely touchy with the sensors. I taught auto for several years at the high school level and the Chrysler and Dodge computer programming they use is designed to only accept OEM or OEM equivalent sensors and solenoids. On the O2 sensors, either OEM or NTK (who makes oem) sensors must be used. Scannerdannner, a teacher who has a youtube channel explains this in detail with Chrysler oxygen sensor data on his scan tool in a class he was teaching.
Good job. I'd only suggest when you bleed brakes, always start with the farthest from master cylinder work your way in bleeding the next longest line... That might save you a little time next go around.
It's a blessing I found this channel. Y'all are great
👌🏻 best channel... I actually get sad going to bed not seeing a video from you guys! Night ain’t complete without it
Great work thus far guys, been following you all since the white Rubicon build. Its been a great ride. Keep it up n looking forward to seeing more stuff from you guys as your channel grows.
Hi I love all the videos and I am a fan of these guys, I love seeing how they progressed. Excellent.
Congratulations
One of the best DIY channels on YT! Keep it real guys. PEACE!!
a happy medium in the steering arm would be a stock xj arm also the t case drop is not necessary with the slip yoke eliminator and cv drive shaft that you have
Y'all do very good work. I just showed your site to a colleague in the video production business. Told him that you two are doing some very fun and innovative things and are quite entertaining.
Charlie Hodges Thank you sir! We try to keep it fun and informative all while getting things done.
Best RUclips channel I have came across for years.
I get excited when I see a notification for a new video!!
that jeep is awesome I rember when the tub and everything was off its came far I love it
Jeep is looking and running great! Awesome job so far, love it
I'm glad the video is put out early today so I can watch it before I go to bed so I don't forget about it.
This was the first video I seen that you guys made. I've watched since then. Been notification squad as well.
You should look at an air powered brake bleeder with as much work as you all are going on these rebuilds. I have the snap one one personally(BB9008KIT) but you can get it from multiple brands including harbor freight on the cheap end. Makes clearing air out and cycling in clean fluid a lot easier and faster.
When you guys bleed your brakes you always start at the rear one farthest away from from the master cylinder. So it would go rear right and do the rear left and do the front right then to the front left. That's the best way to bleed it to get the best results get all the air out of line.
Tom Viola Thanks you for the great info! You guys are super helpful in the comments section, learning a lot.
goonzquad keep doing what you're doing. You guys are doing a great job.
The body colored top really looks good, great project Guys.
One thing to think about... without the drop pitman arm you will change the geometry and cause more bump steer as the suspension goes up and down.
You guys are amazing... smart and skilled... Keep it up bros.... You have a long journey to go...
Great progress guys. Well done.
Martin Thanks 🤝
I look forward to watching your guys videos everyday, great channel
Best part of the day!
love how youre doing a video a day, keep up the good work!
Looks good! What if you kept the stock flares and painted them blue to match the rest of the jeep?
You guys do a great job one thing about the brakes though you bleed from farthest to nearest on the master cylinder so that would be rear right rear left front right front left
I could be wrong, or you may have corrected, but looked like rear track bar was upside down? Not a jeep guy, but I think, like front, it will need to be on a more level angle with diff? Looks like the bend in it is for that...
FLEX IT and WRECK IT guys HELL TO THE YEAH!
Way to go fellas. Well done! Keep the jeep builds coming
Yay a vid it is going to be great
All the blue looks awesome under it
Nice work fellas. Keep killing it.
The moment we’ve been waiting for
When bleeding brakes arent you supposed to start at the caliper farthest away from the reservoir and then work your way up
On that Heim steering you can put it on top on the pitman arm for a better angle
Little tip for braking bleeding. Always start back at the point furthest away from the brake booster.
Heck yeah guys!! She's coming along
@goonzsquad Are there a few forums that you would recommend to look at for the jeeps yall have worked on in terms of gaining insight on your vehicles?
Your left rear brake light is out. Keep up the great work guys.
I like the fact that you guys are not "no it alls" and realize that you made a mistake and fixed it.
Haha the way you say tight them up it´s awesome, another great one !
For future reference when you’re bleeding your brakes always start with the fartherest tire away from the master cylinder and then work in from passenger rear ,driver rear ,passenger front ,driver front
Love the channel . Should do a little more research on setting up the steering though. You want that drop pitman arm to help with bump steer. Try to keep the drag link and tie rod as parallel as possible for best steering geometry. Also, if that’s a factory rubicon, it has electronic lockers, not air lockers. Keep the builds coming! 🤘
Color matched top looks sick
With the pitment arm, looking at it u can see where the teeth things allow for adjustment for the steering, so wudnt drilling it out mess that up?
That’s the only way to do it with this steering kit. But I don’t think it’ll mess anything up.
nice video editing skills guys. really enjoy your vids
Song at 5:46? Btw i just found your channel and i am binging every single video, keep it up
3:00 so much confidence and then it was all lost at 3:06 lol
Croa Arco hahahahaha
Great job on the jeep.cheers
Is that the new windshield wipers
check out metalcloak control arms for some super beefy control arms. its what i have on my TJ. But if you wanna save money a lot of people are going with CORE 4x4 and theres like 3 different versions of the controls arms you can get
Where in GA are you guys at? Love the channel, just subscribed! Hyped on the builds, I've been into rebuilding cars as well
ThatCarGuy Tennessee
John Bates ah, I saw the GA title of the F 250 they bought and figured they were in GA. Thanks
good job , guys!
Jeepers Creepers!!! Lookin GOOD!!!
This is my favorite breakfast show
Another great 👍 video.
Looks good but those aren't factory lower control arms, look like they are from a cheap lift kit. With that front track bar I would stay with a short arm lift. The drop pitman arm is meant to be used with a double shear track bar bracket which provides a frame side drop, long arm stuff. The track bar and drag link should be as close to parallel as possible. Just a note, the heim style steering will wear out super fast depending on the quality of the heims used. Check for play at least every oil change.
Great advice!!!
I've watched the videos and must have overlooked it, but what size lift springs are on it?
I think your tie rod (link, Pittman arm to rt.steering knuckle) needs to be reversed with the short ell bow underslung on the Pittman and the Heim over top of the knuckle eye ? Something just doesn't look right, drag link looks good.
she is looking great keep us posted
ayeeeeee love u guys
great video got my hoodie today great love it
“Technically” when you bleed the brakes you should start with the farthest from the master cylinder, so the Rear passenger, then rear driver, then front passenger, and front driver. Although if your pedal is firm, you should be fine
Bryan Kephart Yea the pedal was firm, but thanks for the knowledge!
Rear fenders
if that jeep has abs then you actually press and hold the pedal to bleed the brakes but non abs you can pump them. this procedure goes for any vehicle with abs.
Hey with what tools 🧰 did you make the hole On the power steering
Man that Blue is nice.
Somehow I just discovered this channel....from one jeep nut to (two) others, this is a badass channel!!! I wanna invite y’all to come down to Jeepfest in Georgia this September on me!! I can get y’all in for free and get y’all free camping 👍🏻
what type of head lights did you buy for the blue Tj, I'm looking for ones for my jeep
Go with max-bilt trail tails!!!! You don't have to cut the tub if you get those.
The fender flairs
It looks like the bolt on the Currie arm is not tight. I always start with the brake furthest from the master cylinder first. Your track bar and drag link(bar from pitman to knuckle) should be the same angle or you will have bump steer. The stock arm does look a lot closer. That's just a fyi so you know why it was suggested.
What was that bang at 3:46?
when your drilling holes do it on low speed let the bit cut the metal and use drill oil u wont burn those hi dolla bits up
are you going to align the hood?
That package is a push pull for the front of the jeep
Add LED Glow lights underneath on the frame 😂😂😂
I need door handles too , where should I buy , also I’ve been looking into adjustable control arms too , can’t wait to see what you guys picked
sean EBay has great prices.
goonzquad thanks !
Always wash that brake fluid off. It’s extremely corrosive.
Really awesome guys keep it up
Why does the hood have ganster lean?
jovonni rios looks like the latch wasn’t on the one side
Make a video and show us your all cars.
Have fun with those door handles, they are a pain :)
Great video keep it up
when you bleed brakes you are supposed to start with the farthest wheel from the brake booster not the front to the back
Rear fenders.
Can u please do another FORD rebuild after the rubicon and can it please be a FORD RANGER 2007 LIFTED
I think the package is a piston ring for the black jeep
when its finished, you guys should take alot of pictures of the jeep while its clean and rust free
Always pump the brakes starting with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder
Yall need to get a PO box
Yall should rebuild a 90's model Ford. Such as a 1995 f250 that would be awesome
MonsterManGaming Yea That would be awesome a Ford or a dodge
Also keep up the good hard work
Hey Goonzquad you should add a snorkel to one of your jeeps
good job guys. next build a 4 door jeep?
Nathan Brinker yes the should do that.
My Honda Accord can do the "off roading" you where doing
Nice job
Was the injectors causing the CEL?
Also on those Jeeps, the o2 sensors are very touchy and the ECU won't accept anything else than OEM.
Colin Guthrie Yea check engine turned on
Colin Guthrie And was running rough
goonzquad
These ECU's are extremely touchy with the sensors. I taught auto for several years at the high school level and the Chrysler and Dodge computer programming they use is designed to only accept OEM or OEM equivalent sensors and solenoids. On the O2 sensors, either OEM or NTK (who makes oem) sensors must be used.
Scannerdannner, a teacher who has a youtube channel explains this in detail with Chrysler oxygen sensor data on his scan tool in a class he was teaching.
Ghost ride the whip
Hello,any restoration of a BMW?👋🇦🇷
hi from holland
i like ur show guys keep going on its realy very cool i like it,
Dino Keyal Thanks!!!