Hi Alex! Love your choice of fabric and color for the style of the pants, I think it's spot on! I agree with some of the comments down below, i.e. I think they are asking for a bit more rise length. However, I think the issue is a combination of rise length AND width at the thighs. The pleats are opening up almost completely at the thighs, which to me suggests the thighs want width, at the same time the rise seems a smidge short. So to my eyes, the thighs are "borrowing" extra length and width from the pleats, hence the diagonal pull at the crotch. They very much be salvageable with fairly minimal effort. I would try the following: opening up the front rise directly (or say 1cm) underneath the front waistband all the way to the crotch intersection, opening up maybe 10 cm at the thighs. Then sewing the legs together with the smallest SA as you can and reconnecting the front crotch with a bigger SA than currently until the crotch starts to flatten(so bigger scoop=more depth), then continuing for the rest of the front rise with the smallest possible SA again. Granted, this won't give you much of a length but the added width both at the center front and the thighs might be enough to cut down the demand lengthwise.
Hi Alex , I am late to watching this but having just watched all the ‘top down centre out’ method of fitting trousers, that approach may well help here. It looks to me as though the crotch seam may not be the right shape at the front for your body shape. Might be worth a look. Other than those creases they are great looking trousers. I am enjoying your videos and the way you talk about the pattern issues. Great style 😊.
I see what you mean about the Billie pants. Not sure what's going on with them though they look really interesting and I love the fastening. Love your stripey top Alex.
Hi Alex. I think part of the issue with the pants is how far the pleats are sewn down. I think they might be better if the pleat opened up at the waistband they might hang better
Thank you, for the review of the Billie pants, I’m much rounder than you, and I hope the pleats might disguise that but now I’m not sure! So this has been really helpful.
Love the style of the pants I think that the waist fits but maybe grade out the hip Maybe a 14 hip they look like they are a loose comfort fit And aren't full enough the pleats are pulling I don't care for lower rise I would maybe lengthen in the rise just a little I agree that they are a great shape for spring love the cuff Hopefully you can adjust them I love that color Beautiful job making them Happy sewing 👗 ✂️🪡🧵 Take care
The pants fit really well at the back but I vacant totally see what you mean about the front. It almost looks as if you need the pleats sewn shorter rather than longer. Or possibly going up a size from the waistband down? I say make the Gertie dress 😍
On your Billie pants, it looks like it's pulling at your right pocket. Maybe unpick the top section of the right pocket (2 -3 inches, sorry I don't know cm) maybe restitch (pin and try on, first) a bit looser/more ease or more at a slight angle. Don't know if that makes sense or a possible fix. You look great, by the way! I am enjoying your weekly makes, fabrics and learning about new to me patterns. Thank you!
I agree with Cecile. I think you need a bit more width in the upper thigh as the pleats are opening up a bit whereas I think they should fall closed. I want to pull them up to your natural waist! You may need a bit more length in the crotch curve at the front so they can sit more comfortably at the waist. You’ve completely nailed the back fit - fantastic! Well done. They’ve got great potential! Diana
The Billie trousers are similar to the flint trousers with the open pocket. I'm not sure about that either! I'd also say that I had the same issue with the closest core Mitchell trouser front pleats and I ended up stitching them down. So frustrating as the rest of the trousers are stunning! Also you're totally to blame for a delivery of patterns I'm waiting for, from France... Can't wait!
I'd think you need a full thigh adjustment to give you more room in the thighs so the pleat doesn't spread. You might want to give yourself more rise so they fit more comfortable in the depth. They look great otherwise. Could you open the pleat and dart the excess at the waist band making them a flat front pant?
PS. There is a new channel called Colour Analysis Studio on RUclips which is the best I’ve ever seen, they really explain everything brilliantly and go into a lot of detail whilst still making it easy to follow, definitely worth a look x
SNAP! I have also made the Billie pants with fabric from Leons! Had the same issue with 'bagging' at front; tried lengthening the pleat seam - looked even worse! Will try again soon and insert an invisible side zip, rather than the pocket opening. Happy sewing!
How funny I was thinking about making them so this is very interesting, even more low waisted works for my shape, but I’m not very experienced at trouser making so may put this one on hold for now. Thank you for such a br review xx
My suggestion for the Billy Trousers would be to look at the side seams between the base of the pocket and the knee . Is there enough seam to increase the fabric across the quads? If not what about adding a gusset to the front inside leg ? I have made them and it took me a while to get used to the extra fabric in the front. I wear mine a lot because the are comfortable in the spring autumn.
You introduced me to style Arc, I made the smith jacket, I love their patterns, the trousers look lovely on you, it maybe the fabric thats causing the crease, have you looked on instagram to see them in other fabrics? but they look lovely on you Kx
Thanks for such an in-depth review of the Billie. I love the look of them and most of those 40/50 style flat/pleat front, cuff trousers, my peri menopause belly says no at the moment though 😂
I don’t have any ideas re the pants , you could email Style Arc a photo and see what they suggest? They are usually very helpful. Your green fabric is devine. Bridget R
What a good fit for waistband and ‘the back’ plus such a sleek look from the side. Could it be the crotch length possibly, maybe sew the seam from front to back easing from waistband closer to the overlocking and see? Then unpick the smaller seam. What do you think
I like the Dovetail dress but I had a maternty dress with an inverted pleat centre front so can't get that out of my mind! I am ooking forward to making something for 'The Gathering', good to be going somewhere special. Thanks for doing this video.
Hi Alex. I love watching and listening to you’re videos. I like the introductions to different patterns rather than the ‘run of the mill’. Loved the style of the Billy trousers but I agree not quite right, I’ve read other comments and agree that perhaps the front panel requires lengthening. I’m going to Leon’s this week I’ll look out for the linen fabric. Keep up the inspirational work. Pam
Thanks so much Pamela, we might bump into each other - I'm seriously thinking about popping in to see if they have some wool to make the bomber jacket I mentioned in the last video 😯
Hi Alex, Loving your fabric choices. I bought the atelier brunette fabric in the darker colour way with the ochre circles. I fell in love with it and couldn’t resist. I’m going to checkout the pattern revival dress, love that shape too. The linen mix at the end of the video would be a lovely fabric choice for that dress too. The Gertie dress is fabulous and I really look forward to seeing it made up. The Billie trousers are a fabulous fit at the back but I agree they look messy at the front with the way the pleats sit. I think the pleats are distracting from the actual fit issue and you need a small scoop out of the crotch seam to avoid those drag lines. I also wonder what that pattern would look like with darts at the front rather than pleats. Hey ho… good to see you twice this week. Stay well.
👋 I think I'll have a fiddle about with the pants, but I don't have high hopes. I was also tempted by the darker colourway on the Atelier B, so I'm glad you got some instead ❤❤
Love the Dovetail dress pattern but I remember wearing a similar style when I was pregnant in the 1980s! Definitely make it in that gorgeous green fabric so it drapes and flows. Come to think of it the trouser opening also reminds me of the adjustable opening we had in maternity dungarees! We can rely on you to find interesting pattern Alex x
Ooh it has to be the Gertie Dress for The Gathering. Really stunning 🤩 I’ve made a skirt (called the No zip skirt) which is a very similar construction to the Style Arc trousers. Looks like you could be doing with a smidge more length in the rise. Love the fabric though. Enjoy sewing all of your plans. 🤓🏴
Hi Alex, to save the pants and have the front look you want you could always add a back zipper and then reconstruct the front so it closed like usual pants. I love the Society dress, if you join Gertie can you purchase any pattern from their range, it only talks about gaining access to new patterns not existing patterns, thanks Deb
Yes when you join you have access to the whole Patreon back catalogue. I've cancelled again as in general they're not my thing and I think this means I now don't have access to the video sew along etc
@@AlexJudgeSews Hi Alex I joined so I could get the Society Dress pattern, I want to make a velvet version in the long sleeve and to the ground, hopefully I can get a ticket to the Melbourne Frocktails event and I have an event to go to for the Kings Coronation in May, I am supposed to go as a Baroness but I cannot really find what a Baroness would wear, so a ball dress and tiara was what I was going for, hope it works out, thanks for the info, Deb 🪡🧵💕
i hope that somebody has a good answer for you because i often have that same problem. my best guess is a combo of too short front rise and maybe add more room for the inner thigh at the crotch level. they look amazing in the back.
Love the Atelier Brunette fabric, and I think the dress will look great on you. You have lots of good advice below on the trouser fit issue. It definitely looks as though you need more length in the front rise, and a bit more width in the side seams, starting from where the tummy curves. But the pleats make it difficult to judge. I imagine the idea is that the trousers should fit without the pleats and that the pleats just give more style, movement, and additional ease. I would be tempted to flatten the pleats as far as possible - with pins or by basting - and then try the trousers on to see what the fit looks like then. Even if you decide not to have another go, this might be an interesting exercise for future reference. Best of luck Alex, and thanks as always for your inspiration.
Love, love, love the dovetail dress pattern. I have stitchbird dress ready to make in 2 fabrics but am sure to get the dovetail too. Thanks for the inspiration- I always love your style and choices.
Your trousers are beautifully sewn, I think the problem with the front is that the crotch extension is not long enough and is pulling. You could try scooping the crotch curve to see if it helps a little. If it helps but is not enough, try adding a gusset. In looking at your video the front leg appears to have enough width, I think the problem is body space I'm certain you can selvage them. Taking them to a tailor might be very informative for future pants fitting issues as the same ones tend to reoccur. I checked the pattern and they are designed to sit at your natural waist.
I’ve been doing reading up on pants fit. Looks to be you need to lengthen the front crotch curve. Don’t scoop from the front curve but lengthen the curve, adding to the thigh, tapering to the knee. Not too much!
I have no idea why, but I wanted to pull the trousers up at the centre seam to see if the creases left. I get your frustration. I LOVE the colour of the fabric for the Dovetail. Sort if pistachio colour. Beautiful
I’ve made these also and while I didn’t have a problem constructing them, I hated how they looked in the front, just as you say. I thought they looked like little boys pjs that open at the front for them to use the bathroom 😳. And mine were way too big, so there wasn’t any pulling. Anyway, Not a good look for me, I thought! Maybe in a crepe or something drapey it’d sit better? Mine were too bodied.😂😂😂
I think you need to lengthen the rise a little and add a touch more length to the back crotch and upper thigh section so it pushes the fabric forward at the thigh/crotch area which should get rid of the funny look of it. You could potentially add a tiny gusset to fix it like you sometimes see in men's trousers and no one would ever be able to see it. (Or at least if they do, they deserve a slap.)
Peggy from Silhouette Patterns says if you get lines off the centre front crutch seem, she calls them whiskers, you need to add more width across the hip. However, your whiskers are more diagonal, suggesting a depth issue. Oh dear I hate fitting issues and not knowing how to fix them. How frustrating for you, because the back is a perfect fit. I have this pattern sitting waiting for me to make it up. Perhaps we should ask Style Arc if they can suggest a fix.
About the pants - the back looks good. I wonder if you need a little rise and a little hip room in the front? even though I was well within the measurements for the size in my Mitchells, I had a similar look for my toile so I did size up (and then take in the waist, but that's another story). I don't know if you have seam allowance to spare - might be worth a try.
I think the flat front bit is too wide and it’s making the break come in the wrong place, nice for the tummy but looks strange on the legs. I’ve jus bought the atelier brunette fabric but in the brown colour way and I’m choosing between a blouse, dress or skirt! What about making the dovetail in the mustard linen then it would make the crisp detail?
In re: Billie pants: I think you are right but it almosy looks as though they are too big in the front, not too little. But short of pulling it apart and relocating the waistband a bit lower (which I am not positive would work) and which would be a lot of work, I'm not sure what would work. (I know - that's a big help!) The back fits well however. maybe a tunic is the answer? And on to the next one
Your front seam looks like your bar is to far over as it’s looks like it’s pulling about half cm , they do look a bit tight at the front. they fit you really well at the back. I had maternity trousers with that type of opening but they were elastic at the back. Looking forward to seeing your Gertty dress, I am with you on the hood.
Just ordered this pattern then saw this review :( think I will make the with a side zip feel that might be the problem - interesting reading the other comments
I’ve been eyeing that same Atelier Brunette fabric since it came out - can’t wait to see what you do with it. The Billie pants open very much like the Megan Nielsen flint shorts/trousers - I rather like it. There’s something weird going on with the fit - I’m sure it’s the pattern not you! If you are looking for viscose linen knits, Stone Fabrics in Totnes usually have some really lovely options. You can see samples on line and then phone to order. They have it in a gorgeous burnt orange.
Hi Alex…It looks like you have plenty of ‘room’ everywhere else in the pants, and I’m wondering what a flat pubis adjustment would do? I don’t know how much seam allowance you have in the crotch seam, but if you have a bit, maybe try letting it out a smidge just at the front curve (just below where the fly would be if they had one), effectively flatten that curve a bit and releasing some of the tension at that spot. That has worked for me when I’ve had those kind of drag lines in the front but everything else is good. Worth a try, as you did such a great job on them!
Yeah nah (classic Kiwi-ism) there is something odd about the front of those pants. Its like the back fits great but the front is too small? Your Atelier Brunette fabric is such an amazing colour, love the idea of it made in the Dovetail pattern. Yes, the blue linen knit looks great for you. I love the colour.
I too did a bit of head scratching over this pocket construction for Billy. I finally decided to not overthink it and just follow the instructions one sentence at a time.I also have the same issue with the pleats in front, and I notice that the waistband is a little high in the back on you. I found the same with mine. I drew the same conclusions as you about this pattern; just a little disappointing. I don't know that I will make them again. And I was so looking forward to this being "the One" for pants. Sigh.
I have no idea about what to do with the front of those trousers. The back look super though. I might be tempted to try tacking a scoop out of the front rise, to see if that helps. 30 plus years ago, I made a skirt that used that method to get into them. I loved them.
I agree that adjusting the front rise might help. There also seems to be a problem with the right pocket - I think it’s where that puckering starts. What a parson’s egg of a pattern: good in parts but the whole is a disappointment. The back and legs are perfection so a rescue mission would be very worthwhile.
I’d try to lower the crotch seam a little if you can, to create a little more room and stop them pulling so much. Other than that, I think it’s actually a design fault with the pattern - they have extra fabric for the pleat at the top, but it is not continued into the thigh. If the crotch adjustment doesn’t work, I wouldn’t waste any more time and fabric on that pattern.
Morning Alex, I love the trousers, I love what we used to call 'pegs'. I think that you're maybe honing in on that pleat area rather than looking at them as a whole, so IMHO - just enjoy them, however, do you think that the pleats might hang better if you increase the rise by an inch or so? thanks for sharing the opening conundrum, I'll now know what to do when I make some. Hugs from Sussex
My best friend and I had matching pegs aged 10 and we made our own black floral ties to wear with them - probably the first 'garment' I ever made 😀. I'm going to see what can be done with them, but I'm very tempted to just give up 😂❤
When I have read about pattern fitting, the rule of thumb seems to be that wrinkles will point toward the problem, most of the time. I would guess it is an issue with the front rise.
I think you are right, maybe let the inside leg inseams out and insert one leg into the other and sew the center crotch seam. You get a better fit sewing the crotch U curve last rather than sewing the front and the back of the pants first and then connecting across from one leg to the other-it can pull more.
The back fit is perfect, but have to agree the front is ...problematic. I would try letting out the side seams at the thigh. I might also look at waistband opening. There appears to be some pulling at that pocket, (which I don't think is any problem with circumference) so I would open those fasteners in front of the mirror and play with the angle of the hook and bar. My first thought, before you even talked in depth about issues, that the bar was not quite at the right angle. It's the type of instinct I wouldn't bet the rent on, but easy to change. Fingers crossed.
Sorry, I was not done on the Billy. Perhaps letting the seam out a bit at the hips could do it. Well, good luck with the adjustments getting rid of the square crotch. They look very good from the back ;-)
Great vlog ! It’s a shame about the style arc trousers, they look lovely from behind ! But you know that yourself. It’s hard to know where or how to adjust them. It did make me laugh as your hand crept across the inside of the trousers, other than that, I really have little to offer in the way of solutions. It’s a shame as it’s an interesting construction. Will be interesting to see an update if you manage to find a solution. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Love the colour of the new trousers Alex, however a big no from me on the way they look. I had a rtw pair similar years ago and though they fitted well (and I was as slim as you then) I don't believe they were remotely flattering. I think the colour of your new patterned fabric could be described as olive green? In any case I think it will suit you!
It looks to me like there is a lot more ease at the crotch level than there is at the level where the pleats are sewn down. That might be the problem. You might try making the pleat shallower, i.e, more ease at the top of the pant/pocket area. That way the pleats might lie flatter and not open out in that awkward way at the crotch. Just a thought. But I agree with you that it does not look nice as is.
Your pants fabric is beautiful. I agree with everyone they fit in the back but the front needs work. Have you tried to scoop the front crotch seam to give you a little more room. You might need a slight full tummy adjustment or just lengthening the crotch seam and or adding to the thigh area. I would start with scooping the crotch. I no longer wear pants with pleats because they spread and I don't like the look on me. Thank you for your videos.
I see you got lots of comments for help on the Billie. I personally avoid pleated slacks for this very issue, I can maybe get it to look nice standing upright but then the minute I sit down, all that pleating opens up and makes a mound of fabric on my lap, very unattractive. They look so nice in theory!
I think that the “camel toe” lines might be alleviated by scooping a bit more out of the crotch seam. I have to do that for my leggings, and I think it would work for these pants. It will give you more room in general and is fairly easy to do without remaking the whole trouser. Just a thought. Good luck! Otherwise they are lovely.
Hi Alex! Love your choice of fabric and color for the style of the pants, I think it's spot on! I agree with some of the comments down below, i.e. I think they are asking for a bit more rise length. However, I think the issue is a combination of rise length AND width at the thighs. The pleats are opening up almost completely at the thighs, which to me suggests the thighs want width, at the same time the rise seems a smidge short. So to my eyes, the thighs are "borrowing" extra length and width from the pleats, hence the diagonal pull at the crotch.
They very much be salvageable with fairly minimal effort. I would try the following: opening up the front rise directly (or say 1cm) underneath the front waistband all the way to the crotch intersection, opening up maybe 10 cm at the thighs. Then sewing the legs together with the smallest SA as you can and reconnecting the front crotch with a bigger SA than currently until the crotch starts to flatten(so bigger scoop=more depth), then continuing for the rest of the front rise with the smallest possible SA again. Granted, this won't give you much of a length but the added width both at the center front and the thighs might be enough to cut down the demand lengthwise.
Thanks for that, definitely not going to be making those pants. You are so talented and stylish.
Hi Alex , I am late to watching this but having just watched all the ‘top down centre out’ method of fitting trousers, that approach may well help here. It looks to me as though the crotch seam may not be the right shape at the front for your body shape. Might be worth a look. Other than those creases they are great looking trousers. I am enjoying your videos and the way you talk about the pattern issues. Great style 😊.
I see what you mean about the Billie pants. Not sure what's going on with them though they look really interesting and I love the fastening. Love your stripey top Alex.
New subscriber. I have been on the fence about the Billie pants. Your choice of colour for the Billie pants is really great.
Hi Alex. I think part of the issue with the pants is how far the pleats are sewn down. I think they might be better if the pleat opened up at the waistband they might hang better
Thank you! I had a skirt in the 80's that had that pocket opening. I am interested in this waistband.
Thank you, for the review of the Billie pants, I’m much rounder than you, and I hope the pleats might disguise that but now I’m not sure! So this has been really helpful.
You are so welcome!
Wow the society dress it’s gorgeous. I love hate the trousers 🤣 love the style but oh the brain work putting it all together. 🙌❤️💙💜💚
Mushy pea green 😍
Love the style of the pants
I think that the waist fits but maybe grade out the hip
Maybe a 14 hip they look like they are a loose comfort fit
And aren't full enough the pleats are pulling
I don't care for lower rise I would maybe lengthen in the rise just a little
I agree that they are a great shape for spring love the cuff
Hopefully you can adjust them
I love that color
Beautiful job making them
Happy sewing 👗 ✂️🪡🧵
Take care
Hi Alex, the trousers fit you perfectly at the back 👌... I really hope that you can adjust them somehow so they look better at the front for you 🙏✊😁😘
The pants fit really well at the back but I vacant totally see what you mean about the front. It almost looks as if you need the pleats sewn shorter rather than longer. Or possibly going up a size from the waistband down?
I say make the Gertie dress 😍
Hi Alex my thought is that maybe the front rise is a bit short
On your Billie pants, it looks like it's pulling at your right pocket. Maybe unpick the top section of the right pocket (2 -3 inches, sorry I don't know cm) maybe restitch (pin and try on, first) a bit looser/more ease or more at a slight angle. Don't know if that makes sense or a possible fix.
You look great, by the way! I am enjoying your weekly makes, fabrics and learning about new to me patterns. Thank you!
I agree with Cecile. I think you need a bit more width in the upper thigh as the pleats are opening up a bit whereas I think they should fall closed. I want to pull them up to your natural waist! You may need a bit more length in the crotch curve at the front so they can sit more comfortably at the waist. You’ve completely nailed the back fit - fantastic! Well done. They’ve got great potential! Diana
Those trousers are so beautifully made, would a little more length in the rise help your comfort with the fit ? You have to make the Gertie dress !! X
The Billie trousers are similar to the flint trousers with the open pocket. I'm not sure about that either! I'd also say that I had the same issue with the closest core Mitchell trouser front pleats and I ended up stitching them down. So frustrating as the rest of the trousers are stunning! Also you're totally to blame for a delivery of patterns I'm waiting for, from France... Can't wait!
Ahh, now I know to avoid the Flint Cara 😂. I believe you're allowed to get yourself a Mother's day gift, so that's what the French package is ❤❤
The flint trousers and shorts are very similar using a tie but using the pocket
I'd think you need a full thigh adjustment to give you more room in the thighs so the pleat doesn't spread. You might want to give yourself more rise so they fit more comfortable in the depth. They look great otherwise. Could you open the pleat and dart the excess at the waist band making them a flat front pant?
Thanks so much for the tips❤❤
Hi Alex have a look t fleur et ours for linen mix jersey, I got a green, terracotta and warm beige.They may have some left. Good luck Angela
PS. There is a new channel called Colour Analysis Studio on RUclips which is the best I’ve ever seen, they really explain everything brilliantly and go into a lot of detail whilst still making it easy to follow, definitely worth a look x
Brilliant, that's today's viewing sorted ❤
SNAP! I have also made the Billie pants with fabric from Leons! Had the same issue with 'bagging' at front; tried lengthening the pleat seam - looked even worse! Will try again soon and insert an invisible side zip, rather than the pocket opening. Happy sewing!
Oh wow!
How funny I was thinking about making them so this is very interesting, even more low waisted works for my shape, but I’m not very experienced at trouser making so may put this one on hold for now. Thank you for such a br review xx
I'm so glad it helped Marilyn 😘
My suggestion for the Billy Trousers would be to look at the side seams between the base of the pocket and the knee . Is there enough seam to increase the fabric across the quads? If not what about adding a gusset to the front inside leg ?
I have made them and it took me a while to get used to the extra fabric in the front. I wear mine a lot because the are comfortable in the spring autumn.
Ahh Carol interesting that you love yours, that give me the encouragement to get the unpicker out ❤
You introduced me to style Arc, I made the smith jacket, I love their patterns, the trousers look lovely on you, it maybe the fabric thats causing the crease, have you looked on instagram to see them in other fabrics? but they look lovely on you Kx
Sorry, not sorry 😂. I just got my Smith Jacket back out with Spring weather in mind
Oh I love it, my first concealed button placket!! that was a brain scratcher lol
Thanks for such an in-depth review of the Billie. I love the look of them and most of those 40/50 style flat/pleat front, cuff trousers, my peri menopause belly says no at the moment though 😂
I don’t have any ideas re the pants , you could email Style Arc a photo and see what they suggest? They are usually very helpful. Your green fabric is devine. Bridget R
I hadn't thought of that Bridget 😯
Glad it was helpful 😘
Nice video thanks for sharing
Thank you too
What a good fit for waistband and ‘the back’ plus such a sleek look from the side. Could it be the crotch length possibly, maybe sew the seam from front to back easing from waistband closer to the overlocking and see? Then unpick the smaller seam. What do you think
I like the Dovetail dress but I had a maternty dress with an inverted pleat centre front so can't get that out of my mind! I am ooking forward to making something for 'The Gathering', good to be going somewhere special. Thanks for doing this video.
Where else can you wear a dress with a hood 😂. I'm looking forward to seeing you there
@@AlexJudgeSews Me too, I hope that you make the dress with the hood. I don't think that mine will be so exciting!
Hi Alex. I love watching and listening to you’re videos. I like the introductions to different patterns rather than the ‘run of the mill’. Loved the style of the Billy trousers but I agree not quite right, I’ve read other comments and agree that perhaps the front panel requires lengthening. I’m going to Leon’s this week I’ll look out for the linen fabric. Keep up the inspirational work. Pam
Thanks so much Pamela, we might bump into each other - I'm seriously thinking about popping in to see if they have some wool to make the bomber jacket I mentioned in the last video 😯
Hi Alex,
Loving your fabric choices. I bought the atelier brunette fabric in the darker colour way with the ochre circles. I fell in love with it and couldn’t resist. I’m going to checkout the pattern revival dress, love that shape too. The linen mix at the end of the video would be a lovely fabric choice for that dress too. The Gertie dress is fabulous and I really look forward to seeing it made up. The Billie trousers are a fabulous fit at the back but I agree they look messy at the front with the way the pleats sit. I think the pleats are distracting from the actual fit issue and you need a small scoop out of the crotch seam to avoid those drag lines. I also wonder what that pattern would look like with darts at the front rather than pleats. Hey ho… good to see you twice this week. Stay well.
👋 I think I'll have a fiddle about with the pants, but I don't have high hopes. I was also tempted by the darker colourway on the Atelier B, so I'm glad you got some instead ❤❤
Love the Billie pant. Love most of Style Arc ❣️
Love the Dovetail dress pattern but I remember wearing a similar style when I was pregnant in the 1980s! Definitely make it in that gorgeous green fabric so it drapes and flows. Come to think of it the trouser opening also reminds me of the adjustable opening we had in maternity dungarees!
We can rely on you to find interesting pattern Alex x
They find me Kerry 😂. I think I had a Dovetail like dress in the '80s too, it's probably why I'm drawn to it 😂😘
We have lost most fabric shops is USA...many of us have to order.....miss the shops.
Ooh it has to be the Gertie Dress for The Gathering. Really stunning 🤩
I’ve made a skirt (called the No zip skirt) which is a very similar construction to the Style Arc trousers. Looks like you could be doing with a smidge more length in the rise. Love the fabric though. Enjoy sewing all of your plans. 🤓🏴
That sounds interesting, I suspect it would be much more successful in a skirt.
Hi Alex, to save the pants and have the front look you want you could always add a back zipper and then reconstruct the front so it closed like usual pants. I love the Society dress, if you join Gertie can you purchase any pattern from their range, it only talks about gaining access to new patterns not existing patterns, thanks Deb
Yes when you join you have access to the whole Patreon back catalogue. I've cancelled again as in general they're not my thing and I think this means I now don't have access to the video sew along etc
@@AlexJudgeSews Hi Alex I joined so I could get the Society Dress pattern, I want to make a velvet version in the long sleeve and to the ground, hopefully I can get a ticket to the Melbourne Frocktails event and I have an event to go to for the Kings Coronation in May, I am supposed to go as a Baroness but I cannot really find what a Baroness would wear, so a ball dress and tiara was what I was going for, hope it works out, thanks for the info, Deb 🪡🧵💕
i hope that somebody has a good answer for you because i often have that same problem. my best guess is a combo of too short front rise and maybe add more room for the inner thigh at the crotch level. they look amazing in the back.
Of course the sensible thing would have been to toile 😂😘
Love the Atelier Brunette fabric, and I think the dress will look great on you.
You have lots of good advice below on the trouser fit issue. It definitely looks as though you need more length in the front rise, and a bit more width in the side seams, starting from where the tummy curves. But the pleats make it difficult to judge. I imagine the idea is that the trousers should fit without the pleats and that the pleats just give more style, movement, and additional ease. I would be tempted to flatten the pleats as far as possible - with pins or by basting - and then try the trousers on to see what the fit looks like then. Even if you decide not to have another go, this might be an interesting exercise for future reference.
Best of luck Alex, and thanks as always for your inspiration.
Thanks so much, always learning 😘
I think the shirt would really look lovely on you with the green fabric.
Maybe I should make both a dress and a shirt 😯😀
Love, love, love the dovetail dress pattern. I have stitchbird dress ready to make in 2 fabrics but am sure to get the dovetail too. Thanks for the inspiration- I always love your style and choices.
Your trousers are beautifully sewn, I think the problem with the front is that the crotch extension is not long enough and is pulling. You could try scooping the crotch curve to see if it helps a little. If it helps but is not enough, try adding a gusset. In looking at your video the front leg appears to have enough width, I think the problem is body space I'm certain you can selvage them. Taking them to a tailor might be very informative for future pants fitting issues as the same ones tend to reoccur. I checked the pattern and they are designed to sit at your natural waist.
Wow Marie that's amazing, I know we all come in different shapes but I don't think they'd sit on many waistlines.
I’ve been doing reading up on pants fit. Looks to be you need to lengthen the front crotch curve. Don’t scoop from the front curve but lengthen the curve, adding to the thigh, tapering to the knee. Not too much!
Alex. I love the dovetail dress that you are making. Definitely need that pattern. Karen
I can't wait to make it, so many ideas and not enough time 😂
I have no idea why, but I wanted to pull the trousers up at the centre seam to see if the creases left. I get your frustration. I LOVE the colour of the fabric for the Dovetail. Sort if pistachio colour. Beautiful
Me too, but when I did it was a little more 'personal' than anyone would want 😂
@@AlexJudgeSews 😮💨
I’ve made these also and while I didn’t have a problem constructing them, I hated how they looked in the front, just as you say. I thought they looked like little boys pjs that open at the front for them to use the bathroom 😳. And mine were way too big, so there wasn’t any pulling. Anyway, Not a good look for me, I thought! Maybe in a crepe or something drapey it’d sit better? Mine were too bodied.😂😂😂
Good point Faith, maybe we chose the wrong fabric.
HI Alex, the last fabric you held up would be beautiful in pants, along with the gorgeous teal blue jersey fabric in a top.....
Great idea!!
I think you need to lengthen the rise a little and add a touch more length to the back crotch and upper thigh section so it pushes the fabric forward at the thigh/crotch area which should get rid of the funny look of it. You could potentially add a tiny gusset to fix it like you sometimes see in men's trousers and no one would ever be able to see it. (Or at least if they do, they deserve a slap.)
Peggy from Silhouette Patterns says if you get lines off the centre front crutch seem, she calls them whiskers, you need to add more width across the hip. However, your whiskers are more diagonal, suggesting a depth issue. Oh dear I hate fitting issues and not knowing how to fix them. How frustrating for you, because the back is a perfect fit. I have this pattern sitting waiting for me to make it up. Perhaps we should ask Style Arc if they can suggest a fix.
I also hate fit issues, I don't have the patience to spend ages to work out what's wrong
About the pants - the back looks good. I wonder if you need a little rise and a little hip room in the front? even though I was well within the measurements for the size in my Mitchells, I had a similar look for my toile so I did size up (and then take in the waist, but that's another story). I don't know if you have seam allowance to spare - might be worth a try.
Great idea!
I think the flat front bit is too wide and it’s making the break come in the wrong place, nice for the tummy but looks strange on the legs. I’ve jus bought the atelier brunette fabric but in the brown colour way and I’m choosing between a blouse, dress or skirt! What about making the dovetail in the mustard linen then it would make the crisp detail?
In re: Billie pants: I think you are right but it almosy looks as though they are too big in the front, not too little. But short of pulling it apart and relocating the waistband a bit lower (which I am not positive would work) and which would be a lot of work, I'm not sure what would work. (I know - that's a big help!) The back fits well however. maybe a tunic is the answer? And on to the next one
Whilst I'm taking on board some great suggestions and will have a good fiddle about with them, I'm not too convinced they're going to work - hey ho 😄❤
Your front seam looks like your bar is to far over as it’s looks like it’s pulling about half cm , they do look a bit tight at the front. they fit you really well at the back.
I had maternity trousers with that type of opening but they were elastic at the back.
Looking forward to seeing your Gertty dress, I am with you on the hood.
Just ordered this pattern then saw this review :( think I will make the with a side zip feel that might be the problem - interesting reading the other comments
Definitely make a toile, they might work fine on your body. In fact if you go to the effort of making a toile they probably will 😂
I’ve been eyeing that same Atelier Brunette fabric since it came out - can’t wait to see what you do with it.
The Billie pants open very much like the Megan Nielsen flint shorts/trousers - I rather like it. There’s something weird going on with the fit - I’m sure it’s the pattern not you!
If you are looking for viscose linen knits, Stone Fabrics in Totnes usually have some really lovely options. You can see samples on line and then phone to order. They have it in a gorgeous burnt orange.
Claire - I do not need any encouragement to look at more fabric!!! - off to google 😂
@@AlexJudgeSews always happy to help! I bought a beautiful linen viscose knit from them last year - it’s really soft and drapes well.
I really like the green fabric from Lulou - the pic on their website doesn't do it justice and I would just pass it by. Must look harder!
😂
Hi Alex…It looks like you have plenty of ‘room’ everywhere else in the pants, and I’m wondering what a flat pubis adjustment would do? I don’t know how much seam allowance you have in the crotch seam, but if you have a bit, maybe try letting it out a smidge just at the front curve (just below where the fly would be if they had one), effectively flatten that curve a bit and releasing some of the tension at that spot. That has worked for me when I’ve had those kind of drag lines in the front but everything else is good. Worth a try, as you did such a great job on them!
Yeah nah (classic Kiwi-ism) there is something odd about the front of those pants. Its like the back fits great but the front is too small? Your Atelier Brunette fabric is such an amazing colour, love the idea of it made in the Dovetail pattern. Yes, the blue linen knit looks great for you. I love the colour.
Yeah nah (also classic South London) 😂- I agree ❤❤❤
I wear lots of linen....love what you chose.
I too did a bit of head scratching over this pocket construction for Billy. I finally decided to not overthink it and just follow the instructions one sentence at a time.I also have the same issue with the pleats in front, and I notice that the waistband is a little high in the back on you. I found the same with mine. I drew the same conclusions as you about this pattern; just a little disappointing. I don't know that I will make them again. And I was so looking forward to this being "the One" for pants. Sigh.
Sounds like we've had a similar experience, I'll try the Guise pants from Papercut and see how they turn out
I have no idea about what to do with the front of those trousers. The back look super though. I might be tempted to try tacking a scoop out of the front rise, to see if that helps. 30 plus years ago, I made a skirt that used that method to get into them. I loved them.
I agree that adjusting the front rise might help. There also seems to be a problem with the right pocket - I think it’s where that puckering starts. What a parson’s egg of a pattern: good in parts but the whole is a disappointment. The back and legs are perfection so a rescue mission would be very worthwhile.
I’d try to lower the crotch seam a little if you can, to create a little more room and stop them pulling so much. Other than that, I think it’s actually a design fault with the pattern - they have extra fabric for the pleat at the top, but it is not continued into the thigh. If the crotch adjustment doesn’t work, I wouldn’t waste any more time and fabric on that pattern.
To my eye there is something odd in the drafting of the front. The combination of pleats and the overlap seems tricky to get to sit correctly.
Morning Alex, I love the trousers, I love what we used to call 'pegs'. I think that you're maybe honing in on that pleat area rather than looking at them as a whole, so IMHO - just enjoy them, however, do you think that the pleats might hang better if you increase the rise by an inch or so? thanks for sharing the opening conundrum, I'll now know what to do when I make some. Hugs from Sussex
My best friend and I had matching pegs aged 10 and we made our own black floral ties to wear with them - probably the first 'garment' I ever made 😀. I'm going to see what can be done with them, but I'm very tempted to just give up 😂❤
To me it looks like you need more fabric at the front inner thigh so the pleat doesn’t pull out of shape
Could it be a crotch curve issue with the Billie pants?? Possibly lower the curve?
Going to make Barry pattern out of a natural colored linen..... hope it turns out 5'1".....size 14
Let me know how you get on, I've got my eye on Barry 😂❤
With the Billy pants ,I would adjust the rise in the front. To me that looks to be the problem.
Thanks ❤
I took the pleats out of the Emerson pants and made front darts rather, I don’t like the pleats.
When I have read about pattern fitting, the rule of thumb seems to be that wrinkles will point toward the problem, most of the time. I would guess it is an issue with the front rise.
I think you are right, maybe let the inside leg inseams out and insert one leg into the other and sew the center crotch seam. You get a better fit sewing the crotch U curve last rather than sewing the front and the back of the pants first and then connecting across from one leg to the other-it can pull more.
Thank you, I didn't know that so will remember in future (or try to anyway).
That spring mustard colored print looks like it is 100% you
Must be a "warm" blue.....warm and cool very important.
The back fit is perfect, but have to agree the front is ...problematic. I would try letting out the side seams at the thigh. I might also look at waistband opening. There appears to be some pulling at that pocket, (which I don't think is any problem with circumference) so I would open those fasteners in front of the mirror and play with the angle of the hook and bar. My first thought, before you even talked in depth about issues, that the bar was not quite at the right angle. It's the type of instinct I wouldn't bet the rent on, but easy to change. Fingers crossed.
Ooh thank you so much, I'll have a good fiddle about and see if they improve ❤❤
Sorry, I was not done on the Billy. Perhaps letting the seam out a bit at the hips could do it. Well, good luck with the adjustments getting rid of the square crotch. They look very good from the back ;-)
I think I'll give this a go, but I've only got a 1cm seam allowance so not much to play with.
🐯
Chartreuse green
Great vlog ! It’s a shame about the style arc trousers, they look lovely from behind ! But you know that yourself. It’s hard to know where or how to adjust them. It did make me laugh as your hand crept across the inside of the trousers, other than that, I really have little to offer in the way of solutions. It’s a shame as it’s an interesting construction. Will be interesting to see an update if you manage to find a solution. Thank you for taking the time to share.
The hand thing had to be done 😂
Love the colour of the new trousers Alex, however a big no from me on the way they look. I had a rtw pair similar years ago and though they fitted well (and I was as slim as you then) I don't believe they were remotely flattering. I think the colour of your new patterned fabric could be described as olive green? In any case I think it will suit you!
Totally agree - thank you ❤❤
Too bad about the whiskers on the Billie pants. Have you compared the crotch curve on this pattern to others that fit you?
Good idea
It looks to me like there is a lot more ease at the crotch level than there is at the level where the pleats are sewn down. That might be the problem. You might try making the pleat shallower, i.e, more ease at the top of the pant/pocket area. That way the pleats might lie flatter and not open out in that awkward way at the crotch. Just a thought. But I agree with you that it does not look nice as is.
Thanks, great idea
No way! Ditch themAlex! Not your usual chic style xxx
😂😂😘 that's the permission I needed to hear
Here’s a very short video you might find helpful, and I think you’ll like the channel. ruclips.net/video/Vnx5LsCltyQ/видео.html
Your pants fabric is beautiful. I agree with everyone they fit in the back but the front needs work. Have you tried to scoop the front crotch seam to give you a little more room. You might need a slight full tummy adjustment or just lengthening the crotch seam and or adding to the thigh area. I would start with scooping the crotch. I no longer wear pants with pleats because they spread and I don't like the look on me. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks so much, yes just when I was learning to love pleat fronts this reminds me why I've avoided them for so long ❤❤
I do understand about the front - it’s a bit weird looking xx
to me it looks like you could sew the front crotch with a bit deeper seam allowance.
I see you got lots of comments for help on the Billie. I personally avoid pleated slacks for this very issue, I can maybe get it to look nice standing upright but then the minute I sit down, all that pleating opens up and makes a mound of fabric on my lap, very unattractive. They look so nice in theory!
I did for years too, but then the wide legged trousers I made, also called Billie, don't have that issue - hey ho
I think that the “camel toe” lines might be alleviated by scooping a bit more out of the crotch seam. I have to do that for my leggings, and I think it would work for these pants. It will give you more room in general and is fairly easy to do without remaking the whole trouser. Just a thought. Good luck! Otherwise they are lovely.
The back on Billy is perfect, the front should be loser, it looks like the pleats are pulling too much.
Agreed