great job and great video, thanks for sharing the plans! I'm building my own for a dewalt miter saw and I had to cut out angles on both sides so the saw can rotate to highest degrees possible on both ends, Any reason you didn't do that? is the opening wide enough already?
Curious where you can acquire the black melamine particle board panels. It seems no one in my area carries them! I searched online and found that Menard's has some, but they do not have a store in Georgia, so I'm out of luck. HD & Lowes only carry the white melamine panels (yuck). I was considering gluing regular hardboard pieces to 3/4" baltic birch plywood, but not really sure how well that would work for flat consistency...?
If you have a local lumber/millwork supplier they may have/be able to get black melamine for you. if not using a Formica type laminate on baltic birch should be just fine, just find out what the manufacturer recommend for the bottom to keep the panel balanced.
Impressive! Although I absolutely abhor particle board in any format, to each his own. The biggest question I have is (you're in Florida, I'm in Florida) what is your source for Baltic Birch plywood? I'm north of Orlando and I can't find it retail around here.
For these small tables the particle board should be fine and it is easy to find for most woodworkers. These tops are also easy to replace in the future if desired. For Baltic Birch you usually need to find a good Lumber and millwork supplier, someone that caters to Cabinet shops and custom builders. We are lucky to have a supplier close to us called Quality Plywood. I am not sure who to recommend over in Orlando, Try Dixie Plywood, they are a wholesale distributor. They may not offer retail sales but they should be able to point you to one of their retail distributors if you give them a call.
Great video and build. One question on the build. I've seen a few other builds do the same, but why do you only use screws and no wood glue during the carcase construction? Are the screws sturdy enough, does wood glue not work over edges that large? Thanks!
Of course this is only my opinion based on personal experience. When it comes to plywood construction such as this I don't feel that glue adds any significant strength. In other words, if the cabinet gets hit hard enough to cause the screws to fail, I don't think the glue will save it. If anything the glue would make a repair more difficult.
The sawstop does a decent job of collecting sawdust, we do still get some dust however. A zero clearance inset also helps quite a bit at trapping sawdust below the table so it doesn't get thrown back up by the blade as it rotates.
@@InfinityTools Wow, I am still watching the build and you sent a reply. Record time! Really good build and I too am a big fan and user of the Kreg K5 Jig. What is your air supply source for spraying? Thanks for the prompt reply 👍
This was pretty straight forward, 1/4" radius round over bit www.infinitytools.com/roundover-beading-router-bit in a handheld router. I must have forgotten to hit the record button. A D-handle baseplate helps with this type of edge work keeping the router stable. I also like a compact router for this kind of work. www.infinitytools.com/universal-router-baseplates-for-compact-routers
Yes the finish we used is called Milk Paint. The version we used is a modern version that does not contain milk protein but does have the traditional flat look. Traditional milk paint used milk protein and other ingredients and sold as a powder.
A VERY nice piece of work. I have never felt the need to create an elaborate miter saw station ,as a block of wood cut to the same height as the saws table serves the same purpose of supporting the piece being cut, at a fraction of the cost. In fact , more like zero cost as scrap pieces of lumber are almost omnipresent . 😂
For one off pieces and smaller projects a miter station certainly is not a necessity. As soon as you start working on projects that require multiple pieces cut to the same size, like cabinet door frames, a miter station becomes really handy. It all comes down to your shop, The space you have available, and the types of projects you build.
Our shop space is about 800 square feet, roughly 20' X 40' as it is located in our Oldsmar Florida warehouse it often shares space with other equipment that is not strictly dedicated to woodworking.
Thanks, I'm a up an coming woodworker and I was trying to find the idea space needed to have a comfortable shop because I want to add an cnc machine in later
Your welcome. I have worked in a lot of different sized shops from a 10' x 10' garden shed to a 10,000sf) commercial cabinet shop. I will say you can definitely go too big. My opinion, 800-1200sf is probably the sweat spot assuming normal projects from custom furniture to complete kitchens.
Shop furniture is an excellent time to hone your skills, learn to execute joinery to a high level, and learn and experiment with new finishing techniques. As shop furniture projects are often the first undertaken by new woodworkers they are an excellent place to learn to execute at a high level. For a professional who has clients visiting his shop, well-executed shop furniture makes a huge difference when it comes to first impressions and client relations. Not to mention the time-honored tradition of "wasting time" on shop furniture. Surely H. O. Studley would agree en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_O._Studley
great job and great video, thanks for sharing the plans! I'm building my own for a dewalt miter saw and I had to cut out angles on both sides so the saw can rotate to highest degrees possible on both ends, Any reason you didn't do that? is the opening wide enough already?
Curious where you can acquire the black melamine particle board panels. It seems no one in my area carries them! I searched online and found that Menard's has some, but they do not have a store in Georgia, so I'm out of luck. HD & Lowes only carry the white melamine panels (yuck). I was considering gluing regular hardboard pieces to 3/4" baltic birch plywood, but not really sure how well that would work for flat consistency...?
If you have a local lumber/millwork supplier they may have/be able to get black melamine for you. if not using a Formica type laminate on baltic birch should be just fine, just find out what the manufacturer recommend for the bottom to keep the panel balanced.
Excelente trabajo bro ...eres un crack 🖖💪🇻🇪...
Nice build Andrew.
Impressive! Although I absolutely abhor particle board in any format, to each his own. The biggest question I have is (you're in Florida, I'm in Florida) what is your source for Baltic Birch plywood? I'm north of Orlando and I can't find it retail around here.
For these small tables the particle board should be fine and it is easy to find for most woodworkers. These tops are also easy to replace in the future if desired. For Baltic Birch you usually need to find a good Lumber and millwork supplier, someone that caters to Cabinet shops and custom builders. We are lucky to have a supplier close to us called Quality Plywood. I am not sure who to recommend over in Orlando, Try Dixie Plywood, they are a wholesale distributor. They may not offer retail sales but they should be able to point you to one of their retail distributors if you give them a call.
Great video and build.
One question on the build. I've seen a few other builds do the same, but why do you only use screws and no wood glue during the carcase construction? Are the screws sturdy enough, does wood glue not work over edges that large?
Thanks!
Of course this is only my opinion based on personal experience. When it comes to plywood construction such as this I don't feel that glue adds any significant strength. In other words, if the cabinet gets hit hard enough to cause the screws to fail, I don't think the glue will save it. If anything the glue would make a repair more difficult.
Watch you cutting the stock on your table saw. Where was all the dust? No visible dust extraction! Amazing!!!
The sawstop does a decent job of collecting sawdust, we do still get some dust however. A zero clearance inset also helps quite a bit at trapping sawdust below the table so it doesn't get thrown back up by the blade as it rotates.
@@InfinityTools Wow, I am still watching the build and you sent a reply. Record time! Really good build and I too am a big fan and user of the Kreg K5 Jig. What is your air supply source for spraying? Thanks for the prompt reply 👍
We used an Earlex Sprayport on this build. We are testing it out to see if it is something we want to carry in our store and on our website.
very nice
What kind/brand of hinges are you using?
These are a half overlay frameless hinge, no particular brand. For good quality hinges for kitchens or the like, Blum is hard to beat.
très beau
Nice job on the cabinet. I would have liked to seen how you routered the finished edge on the melamine with the hickory. Great job though.
This was pretty straight forward, 1/4" radius round over bit www.infinitytools.com/roundover-beading-router-bit in a handheld router. I must have forgotten to hit the record button. A D-handle baseplate helps with this type of edge work keeping the router stable. I also like a compact router for this kind of work. www.infinitytools.com/universal-router-baseplates-for-compact-routers
Hi did I hear you correctly, what is "milk paint"?
Yes the finish we used is called Milk Paint. The version we used is a modern version that does not contain milk protein but does have the traditional flat look. Traditional milk paint used milk protein and other ingredients and sold as a powder.
Genial vídeo!
Отлично 👍👍👍👏
Awesome video,,,, How hard is it to keep all those black countertops clean?
Lets just say they let you know when its time to wipe them down.
A VERY nice piece of work.
I have never felt the need to create an elaborate miter saw station ,as a block of wood cut to the same height as the saws table serves the same purpose of supporting the piece being cut, at a fraction of the cost. In fact , more like zero cost as scrap pieces of lumber are almost omnipresent . 😂
For one off pieces and smaller projects a miter station certainly is not a necessity. As soon as you start working on projects that require multiple pieces cut to the same size, like cabinet door frames, a miter station becomes really handy. It all comes down to your shop, The space you have available, and the types of projects you build.
How big is your shop?? Sq feet
Our shop space is about 800 square feet, roughly 20' X 40' as it is located in our Oldsmar Florida warehouse it often shares space with other equipment that is not strictly dedicated to woodworking.
Thanks, I'm a up an coming woodworker and I was trying to find the idea space needed to have a comfortable shop because I want to add an cnc machine in later
Your welcome. I have worked in a lot of different sized shops from a 10' x 10' garden shed to a 10,000sf) commercial cabinet shop. I will say you can definitely go too big. My opinion, 800-1200sf is probably the sweat spot assuming normal projects from custom furniture to complete kitchens.
Thanks buddy appreciate all the info 👍
i thought baltic birch came 5foot by 5 foot or 5x5
Depending on your supplier it can be had in both 5'X5' and 4'x8'. I have also heard rumor of 5'x10' sheets but never seen one in the wild.
👍
Biggest waste of time I’ve ever seen for something that’s going to go in the shop
Shop furniture is an excellent time to hone your skills, learn to execute joinery to a high level, and learn and experiment with new finishing techniques. As shop furniture projects are often the first undertaken by new woodworkers they are an excellent place to learn to execute at a high level. For a professional who has clients visiting his shop, well-executed shop furniture makes a huge difference when it comes to first impressions and client relations. Not to mention the time-honored tradition of "wasting time" on shop furniture. Surely H. O. Studley would agree en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_O._Studley
Says the guy who has no woodworking videos uploaded.
++ for each of the two replies.