I always laugh when I see the "This generation isn't as handy as the last generation". I can get on RUclips and learn from some of the best teachers in the world at their craft. I restore boats for a living and couple years ago I knew nothing, now Im rewiring motors, rebuilding motors, fiberglass and body work, upholstery and painting. Literally everything, thanks to people like Brian. I couldn't do any of it without people like him. Dude, thanks a ton. I mean it.
@@KOSerg-vo2qb depends what race you’re talking about because the Polish are anything but lazy they’re very good workers it’s the British who stay at me and do f*ck all.
I always wanted to paint a motorcycle that I built but I’ve never painted before, I’ve watched so many videos and talked to so many people I think I’m ready, I’ve been waiting for a year, I purchased sealer, primer,base coat, clear coat, activator and a half way decent paint gun, I bought tack clothes , cleaners sand paper, I even bought a buffer,so I put plastic up and an exhaust fan in my garage, I just need some good weather and guts to start, thanks for the videos
Thanks Brian. Another great video. My project will have a white base which will then be masked and taped to produce a design in a couple of other colours. Then clear coat over the whole thing. A video showing how to tape. When to tape. When to remove tape. And all that good stuff would be great. 👍
You are a sensational paint sprayer ... Your RUclips channel has taught me a lot. Thank you and I look forward to seeing more videos. Rafał from Poland
Hi Brian, thanks for another brilliant and super-useful lesson in spray painting. I’ve learnt more in the last four years than in the previous forty! Bless you buddy! 👍
Brian I have a question for you , what type of respirator do you use and how often is it replaced . And what brand of full face respirator-does Pedro use? I wear full hooded PPE outfit when I’m painting, I still have a lot of overspray on my face shield, how do you clean it. Maybe a video on proper use and precaution when painting would be helpful. Thank you and your team for the best videos on painting
Hi brian thanks for the information that you bring to us, one question what happens if i dont apply the clear coat the same day that i applied the base coat? Can i apply the clear coat 2 days after i applied the base coat? Thanks
I will be painting my truck in a well protected carport. 1-2 panels or areas at a time. After the body work and sanding primer is finished can I spray white primer sealer and then set it aside for days or a few weeks before painting the color? Thanks for all your videos.
After bodywork and apllying primer is the smartest point to set them aside for a few weeks ( even months are fine ). You want a complete covered and sealed off panel/area. Sand the primer when you can do it all together as quick as possible. Ideally in a single day, if you take more days, be sure to give "older parts" a quick re-sand in the end. Sealer is used as a "wet in wet" system. it isn't 100% cured while apllying colour, so the colour can chemically attach to the sealer. So you don't want to wait days or even hours.
Great advice again 👍 I agree on the tape trick. On another video can you go over or if have chemical pop when clear is not flashed correctly or applied to heavy?
Brian, Another great video, always love learning as a DIYER here on the channel, you do such a great job on these videos. I have a question- how do you know how much paint to mix for the application you are doing?----thanks and have a great day
Hi I’ve just laid my first coat of 2k high gloss acrylic down but run out of time to do the 2nd coat, will I have to lightly sand it before I do the 2nd coat in the morning ? I’m not sure what the longest time I can go between coats that’s all and the paint supplier takes forever to get back to you 🤷🏼♂️ great paint though covers great, I’m in the U.K. and painting in my garage
If you do multiple coats of clear coat the normal flash time is 15 minutes but let's say your second or third coat should you double that like wait 30 minutes in between each coat?
thanks for the video but can you spray sealer 1 day, primer the next day, couple days later do base and another day finish with clear? I just did my 3 wheeler and i just felt rushed thinking i had to do it all one after anoither in a single day. That paint actually turned out good but I used a kandy brandywine with a silver base and man, I didn't realize how fast our Florida sun faded this paint! So no more Kandy lol
Brian I love what your doing. I’ve vinyl wrapped my van but I feel your videos give me the confidence to do a spray job instead. Can u recommend a spray gun attachment. God bless
Depending on the state of the paint, vinyl is arguably better than repainting your car. It will conserve the paint underneatch as a protective layer, and repainting a car or vinyl wrapping can quickly come down to the same costs. Brian has some of his sprayguns listed in his bio: 3M Performance Spray Gun: amzn.to/3BXUwPu DV1 Clearcoat Gun: amzn.to/3BBqL5O Clearcoat: amzn.to/3UsNgm1
Can i wait 1 day for applying 2k clear coat , because i have to apply stickers on bike tank and today the shop is on holiday , and also how much time does it take to cure 2k clear coat because i have to to some electrical works too on bike so can i apply clear coat and take my bike out on the same day
How did you know I googled this yesterday. Thanks! But what is too long between 2k clear over base before its too late, considering it takes set up time to clean out gun and mix clear.
u could spray base and then spray the clear the next day, but the longer u wait its most likely the clearcoat may not bond(stick) to the base and will peel in the future. When will it peel is anyones guess though.
Often manufacturers say it's ok to paint within 24 hours. To be 100% sure, check out the Technical data sheet of your paint. You might need to look it up online.
Brian, I paint RC model airplanes. I’ve always used the PPG line of paints. My clear of choice is PPG 2021. Unfortunately it’s to expensive! What would be an alternative cost effective clear? Thanks
Technically yes. Basically why painters use different guns is, the guns have different setups (caps, needles, hole-sizes), and disperse the fluids different. Also you dont want any colour leftovers in your clearcoat for example, so cleanliness is key. So while it's far from ideal for a professional to use one gun, for DIY and beginners it's completely fine.
Hi Brian! I am your fan and adore your craftsmanship! I have a question for you: Is the interface water used between the mixed activator and the old and new paint the same material? Greatful!
@@foxjoe2157 Old paint was solvent based, having a fast drying reducer. New paint is waterbased, having litteral distilled water as reducer. Hope that answers your question.
@@the_bearded_anesthetist Depends on the manufacturer, often you have a 24 hour window. To be sure check out the technical data sheet of your used brand. I would still advise to go around that issue, pick a day with enough time, to do (sealer), base and clear in one sweep.
This might be the most important video you have done to date. It seems that some things need to cost before it to be completely “dry” or “cured”, not interchangeable terms, while others need to be in that crucial window of tackiness so that the next coating will adhere better. It’s also crucial to have the right temp and especially humidity for the paint you are using. And manufacturer recommendations can sometimes be worthless. I’ve had a recent crisis of touch ups. Such that one tiny mistake requires sanding several coats away to get a good surface for recoat. My questions are: why does it seem that sometimes I can’t prevent “crazing” (cracks in the paint like dried mud cracks even with correct humidity range and temp, yet other times with same conditions it seems I could pile coats on with great results. I’m in Charleston, SC, so very similar conditions to yours, but in a garage, with a window AC, and a dehumidifier rated for 1500 square feet for climate control. Man I have to clean those filters every other day. Black paint and dust gets everywhere. Basically I shoot for less than 60% RH, and it’ll never get below 30%, so mid 40’s is good, 55% is still kinda high, 50% is fine, 30% leaves “dry” finish or runs, one or the other, ugh. Oh, and rattle cans exclusively. I went with Paintscratch.com after you used that in one video, and I’ll say it’s very good paint, but can’t find its makeup, and the MSDS is Greek to me. I’ve really got what I feel is good technique as far as distance, speed, overlap, etc. Regardless of primer or paint or clear, I always do a “mist” cost first. Then second coat a little wetter than that, then third wetter than the second, and so on. Crazy part is I have had good AND bad results with both the expensive, factory code mixed Paintscratch.com paint, and, of all things, out of desperation, Rustoleum. Car is Mercedes ML320, 040, black. The mixed paint has a strong blue tint until a zillion coats finally become black everywhere. But it applies better, with less chance of crazing, yet it’s often splotchy, The pattern is much better though for bigger panels. The Rustoleum Automotive grade goes on nicely, narrow pattern though, so it’s easy to get a run, but goes on glossy, and stays that way, unless it starts to craze. If I can get a solid base coat, let it cure at least six hours, I can then get away with applying clear coat, the SprayMax2K, only. Ok, again the questions. Why does it seem like the expensive stuff takes a million coats, yet when I wet sand for buffing, it gets down to primer too easily. I just don’t get it. 1000 grit, till it glides easily, then 1500, 2000, 3000, maybe 5000, then 3M compound, red print. The fender looks more glossy before even wet sanding than the tailgate looks after. The Rustoleum had only been on the bumpers, but easily got great gloss even before clear, and now the clear has been curing for ten days, still looks great. Oh yeah, temp is usually around 77-82F. On my Brilliant Black Pearl Magnum, paint went on splotchy, and as you said in another older video, don’t worry, the clear will get rid of that and bring out the gloss while wet sanding. It did just that. I do wet sand my primer to 400 grit until it looks and feels perfect when dry. Brilliant Black was splotchy, clear was splotchy, wet sanding several days later gave me a factory finish, I swear the results were enough to make me cry. The wagon is my baby though, so. But on the Merc, same habits, totally different results. Nice smooth 040 paint, nice clear coat, did at least three coats, but not five, can’t get it to shine glossy, even with usually wet sand regimen. And on the hood, same number of base coats, burned right through to primer and/or blue tint during 1000 or 2000 grit, safe, careful wet sanding. I do check for tackiness on a tape line before recoating too. Ok I guess the ultimate question is how many clear coats are too many? Using the SprayMax2K of course. I’ve heard three is where you want to stop. That regardless of cure time between coats, the first may not have cured enough and may not cure with five coats above it. I call BS on that. I’ve had the clear run, but never craze. On the bumpers I did at least four coats, but not six. I say this because a coat isn’t always a coat. Regardless of technique and attention to detail, that spray, combined with inevitable overspray getting on the coat you are still doing, is going to be different mills. Take a side of an SUV for example. You do the fender, then the front door, then the back, then the quarter. The fender gets overspray , dry, from the front door, and so on down the line. The paint bounces off, or even just from the tip, floats around a bit before settling on the paint you just slaved over for countless hours. That’s part of a coat. You see a “dry” spot while doing another section, and if it’s still wet, you do a quick and careful pass just to be sure, only on the third or fourth coat though. And if it’s still flashing off, wait and hit it later. I’ve had situations where all the care in the world, temp, RH, distance, speed, even paint type, have given me bad results that should have been e epic, and good results that should never have been. Right now my ML320 bumpers are being allowed an extended cure time, and got Rustoleum under 2K clear, and still look like they might not even need wet sanding. Yet, my tailgate, which got every detail perfect, won’t gloss no matter what. Why does the clear add gloss and cover splotchyness sometimes and not others? My base coat on the tailgate with proper 040 looked perfect before clear, and I allowed 12 hours before clear. Yet, the result sucks. I haven’t wet sanded the doors or fender yet and they’ve cured for three weeks. Is there really a window of time where the clear is safe to wet sand, but not fully hard, making wet sanding easier, as I’ve heard? I recently wet sanded six hour old 2K clear over crappy Duplicolor Inferno Red and the clear seemed hard as a rock, no problems at all. It also seems like a lot of the manufacture suggestions are motivated by getting you to use their products exclusively , and not best results, as I’ve broken lots of rules and gotten great results while sticking to the rules exactly and getting bad results too. Maybe too many variables for you to answer. To attempt to simplify, how many coats of base and clear, each, are too, many? Do I have to invest in a depth gauge to keep from cutting through what seems like plenty of base coats? And why can’t I just spot respray base over those burns and then recoat clear over that? Damn this shit is so complicated. It seems that using a compressor/gun would just complicate it even more with all the mixing and such. And don’t get me started on blend lines. Uuuuuughhhhh. Why can I still see sandpaper scratches through all the layers after clear when I couldn’t see nor feel them before base? Why does clear sometimes get rid of splotchy base but not other times? All related to this video.
Holy moly dude... let's try to dissect: You are using spraycans, the paint within those cans differs quite a lot, to the ones used with a spraygun. First off, shake your cans before every use, and in prolonged use inbetween really well. The paint seperates from the carrying fluids and solvents, leaving you with translucent paint coverage. Shaking will mix those again, allowing easier and faster coverage. Spraycans have different caps, basically there's 3 types: o -shapes, O - shapes, and () - shapes. For greater surfaces use the () - shape caps, to reduce lines, and get even coverage. If a layer is not fully cured, and then added another layer to it, it can result in a variety of problems. Painting in a garage/room without ventilation leaves you with a big problem, especially if you paint great amounts. The solvents will build up in the ceiling, slowly falling down, causing havock on any paint. The splotchy paint sounds to me, like the can is "spitting", meaning, there are little pockets of pure air in between the solid stream of paint, that is a sad reality of spraycans, can't do more than shaking the can inbetween, keep the cap clean and hope for the best. If you do notice the spitting, go over the splotchy area again. Paint cracks like dried mud, occur in specific conditions. If you have different layers of paint, and under the condition, that a underneath layer is not fully cured, while a followup layer covers that not cured layer, and the top layer dries faster than the not cured layer beneath. Technically there is no "too many layers", it depends on the thickness of your layers. That's why that question is better answered in "µm". Factory paint is about 200 µm, bodyshops tend to be above that, up to 300 µm, given a unpainted, raw surface. Now you probably don't sand down to a raw surface, so as a rule of thumb, don't have more than 3 complete layers of paint (sealer, colour, clearcoat). Spraycans have a lot, and I mean a LOT of solvents in them, that try to condense outwards. Leftover solvents in cleacoat, will turn the clearcoat matte. That may be so for the entire panel, or splotchy parts. Also those solvents might not like layers beneath, etching/destroying them. They are really aggressive. Having different thickness of paint is really up to you. I always tell my apprentices: "painting is like moving a computer mouse. dont look at your hands, then the sceen, then hands, screen.... your hand moves, your eyes are fixed on the surface. Look at reflections while painting, you'll see if its a good/same amount of paint." For a horizontal hood you want to move slower, than a vertical door. I would never do a "mist" layer in basecoat or clearcoat. Brian has some superb videos on how thick a layer should be, and how it looks like. Elongated scrathes, like sanding scratches stemming from coarse sandpaper, tend to "fall in". Be sure to sand out your sand scratches properly, don't be shy to use guide coat. Don't do too big jumps, max 100, i.e: P80 to P180, to P240 to P320 is all fine. Don't do P80 to P240, the finer sandpaper can't dig in deep enough to get rid of the coarser scratches. Be sure to sand a little bit more area with each finer sandpaper, at least increase by an inch every time. Hope that about covers your questions.
Andrew, try painting one or two panels at a time. when a panel that you spray come out perfect replicate what you did on the perfect panel to the others. also, using a paint gun is much easier for bigger paint jobs. practice is key and when something works. do it that way. wow like you painted 3 cars with spray paint thats a lot of unessesaary hard work. just learn to spray with a spray gun
Brian, I'm currently trying Debeer HS clear coat. I've been working on painting a hood black, but I seem to keep getting dieback. I'm using slow hardener in the clear and the weather has been around 80-90 degrees. The TDS say 5-10 min between coats of clear. I have tried almost all the minutes within the 10min. It seems to still be somewhat tacky within the 10min. I know some say it should be tacky between coats and some say it should be handslick. I'm not sure if my flash time is causing my problem
theres many factors that can be causing ur problems. Putting on a clear too heavy would cause dieback. Clearing at a low pressure could do it too cause it didnt atomize properly. Basecoat not 100% dry. It could also be your booth not being perfectly balanced. Or even waiting too long to bake ur clear. Air drying it.
Heavily pigmented base coats (like black) need more flash time. Try giving it 30 min before clearing. Often, die back can be buffed out. Just give it a couple of days before doing so.
I should also saying a non proper cool down cycle could lead to dieback, even taking the car out of the booth too soon after the bake cycle could do it too
@@sealisland1 I usually give it 30-60min before clearing. I've tried cutting and buffing die back in the past, but looks like it eventually comes back over time
@@marcuswhite1403 it takes a long time for solvents to completely escape. That's why they say not to wax for 3 months. Try buffing after a month or so. Can't hurt and it may help. Also, an expert painter told me that with the value bases(Omni, Nason...) he lets them sit for 24 hours before clearing.
Hi, Brian! A quick question for you: is it possible that when using spray cans, the time between two coats to be shorter than if using a spray gun (in a spray booth)?
Hi, i'm having a problem with a wheels paint job, my paint it's sticky on only one wheel other it's perfect, same steps applied, i sprayed them 3 days ago, some tip to finish the job?
My brother works at a paint shop. He waits 3 minutes between each cost of clear using extra slow reducer. I never heard that before. I always hear from 10-15 minutes
depends on the clear some are tack & wack eg medium coat followed immediately by a wet 1, Debeer has a air dry clear thats a wet coat followed by another wet coat, most HS clears at app 23 degrees is 5 to 10 mins depending on hardener used so there no 1 rule
It can help to heat up the booth a bit for flashing paint, especially if you have a lot of layers and/or horizontal panels. Be sure to have temperature back down to around 20C / 68F - 25C / 77F if possible. This is not necessary, might just quicken the whole process.
I wish the shop who messed up my burgundy Dodge caravan front bumper watched this episode. The base is to dark and the pearl hardly matched. High end shop who my insurance sent me too. Id love to learn how to paint to eventually fix it but i probably need a little practice first:)
It might differ from country to country, here in Germany, that might be a reason for a do-over, with costs covered completely by the bodyshop. Now front and rear bumpers in generell are made out of plastic, and doors, rearpanels etc are out of metal. In 95% of the time, painted plastic will differ a bit from painted metal. That is true for factory paint, aswell as bodyshops. Talk to the guys in the bodyshop, explain your concerns, and ask for reasons and a solution. Don't go immediate apesh!t, it happens to the best, bodyshops often have a very limited timerange to operate in.
Hi Brian, I used two different brands of rattle can on my new bumper, both cans did not match the original paint color on honda civic 2008. Paint code is NH701M grey metallic. Can I order this code somewhere in a quart size ready to spray without having to mix anything? I appreciate your help, thanks.
take your car to your paint supplier they will bring the sample spray out cards of that color out to your car and match it they will make you a spray can for about 30 bucks lots of paint code have 9 variations or more
@@les1ed Thank you Brian, you're the best. Always enjoy your videos. You are so right about the variations, I just hung up with a paint supplier and he explained to me that these vehicles were made in 3 different places, mine was made in canada and the 11th letter in my Vin# is H. Now there are two variations one lighter the other darker, I chose the darker because the paint is more like a brown. He'll ship them tomorrow, hope this works. God Bless.
I always laugh when I see the "This generation isn't as handy as the last generation". I can get on RUclips and learn from some of the best teachers in the world at their craft. I restore boats for a living and couple years ago I knew nothing, now Im rewiring motors, rebuilding motors, fiberglass and body work, upholstery and painting. Literally everything, thanks to people like Brian. I couldn't do any of it without people like him. Dude, thanks a ton. I mean it.
Thank you! I’m old enough to maybe be a part of the old generation 😅
Yeah you have confidence and practicality to do it! I always think if someone else can do it then why can’t I
In India car paint it's no good at all. You have done a great job ❤❤❤. I'll try to learn something from you.
This generation is lazy
@@KOSerg-vo2qb depends what race you’re talking about because the Polish are anything but lazy they’re very good workers it’s the British who stay at me and do f*ck all.
It's clear you put so much effort in making these videos... Just letting you know we appreciate it a lot 🙂
OK. The tape sticky tip was the most valuable tip I've seen in almost all the time I've been trying to learn to paint.
how about checking for flashed off paint by touching an area your not going to see. thats a good one too
Thanks from Tanzania 🇹🇿 ❤️
Doing my car now. Biggest issues are sweating on the paint and the damn air hose getting in the way. Great tutorials love watching them.
Painting my Car rn, and its my first paint job ever. Got a bunch of new tools, and new skills along the way :)
I always wanted to paint a motorcycle that I built but I’ve never painted before, I’ve watched so many videos and talked to so many people I think I’m ready, I’ve been waiting for a year, I purchased sealer, primer,base coat, clear coat, activator and a half way decent paint gun, I bought tack clothes , cleaners sand paper, I even bought a buffer,so I put plastic up and an exhaust fan in my garage, I just need some good weather and guts to start, thanks for the videos
@jamespolucha8790 is it ok for now?
Nice job!! Is it okay to spray base coat one day and clear coat the next day?
Thanks Brian. Another great video. My project will have a white base which will then be masked and taped to produce a design in a couple of other colours. Then clear coat over the whole thing. A video showing how to tape. When to tape. When to remove tape. And all that good stuff would be great. 👍
You are a sensational paint sprayer ... Your RUclips channel has taught me a lot. Thank you and I look forward to seeing more videos. Rafał from Poland
Hi Brian, thanks for another brilliant and super-useful lesson in spray painting. I’ve learnt more in the last four years than in the previous forty! Bless you buddy! 👍
Brian
I have a question for you , what type of respirator do you use and how often is it replaced . And what brand of full face respirator-does Pedro use? I wear full hooded PPE outfit when I’m painting, I still have a lot of overspray on my face shield, how do you clean it. Maybe a video on proper use and precaution when painting would be helpful. Thank you and your team for the best videos on painting
Best series yet 👍😎👍
Hi brian thanks for the information that you bring to us, one question what happens if i dont apply the clear coat the same day that i applied the base coat? Can i apply the clear coat 2 days after i applied the base coat? Thanks
Always so knowledgeable!👍🏽 learn in every video
I will be painting my truck in a well protected carport. 1-2 panels or areas at a time. After the body work and sanding primer is finished can I spray white primer sealer and then set it aside for days or a few weeks before painting the color? Thanks for all your videos.
After bodywork and apllying primer is the smartest point to set them aside for a few weeks ( even months are fine ). You want a complete covered and sealed off panel/area.
Sand the primer when you can do it all together as quick as possible. Ideally in a single day, if you take more days, be sure to give "older parts" a quick re-sand in the end.
Sealer is used as a "wet in wet" system. it isn't 100% cured while apllying colour, so the colour can chemically attach to the sealer. So you don't want to wait days or even hours.
for the advance class, can you go over how to "de-nib" after sealer and before clear coating. very informative video
1000-1500 grit.
Brian, you were a great help and with the help of your clips, I painted my bumper like a pro!
Best regards!
Great tips. I bought superslow reducer but getting cooler so I'm going to use medium. Avg Temps 72-75 here. Is that correct?
Great advice again 👍 I agree on the tape trick.
On another video can you go over or if have chemical pop when clear is not flashed correctly or applied to heavy?
Excellent video. I’m going to stop overthinking it and get ‘er done!
Brian, Another great video, always love learning as a DIYER here on the channel, you do such a great job on these videos. I have a question- how do you know how much paint to mix for the application you are doing?----thanks and have a great day
Appreciate the tips Brian, first time doing tri-coat! This video was perfect!
Hi I’ve just laid my first coat of 2k high gloss acrylic down but run out of time to do the 2nd coat, will I have to lightly sand it before I do the 2nd coat in the morning ? I’m not sure what the longest time I can go between coats that’s all and the paint supplier takes forever to get back to you 🤷🏼♂️ great paint though covers great, I’m in the U.K. and painting in my garage
thanks for doing these videos with the care you give to them. I have learned I have a lot more to learn!
I like these little short videos with tips.
Why pearl coat instead of clear coat? Is that a softer sheen? Thanks great video.
Now did you use adhesion promoter since your painting on flexible plastic?
If you do multiple coats of clear coat the normal flash time is 15 minutes but let's say your second or third coat should you double that like wait 30 minutes in between each coat?
thanks for the video but can you spray sealer 1 day, primer the next day, couple days later do base and another day finish with clear? I just did my 3 wheeler and i just felt rushed thinking i had to do it all one after anoither in a single day. That paint actually turned out good but I used a kandy brandywine with a silver base and man, I didn't realize how fast our Florida sun faded this paint! So no more Kandy lol
awesome info as usual Brian, and yes I learned something, thank you !!
Been waitting for this so much. thank you
May I ask what tips and cap that you using in dv1 clear gun?..great video by the way..thanks😄👍
That’s good technique with the sprayer.
Hey Brian … if I need to reapply more clear coat ..can this be done if it’s been more than a day ?
Thanks for the effort. I'm about to paint my first car... I'm terrible with subjective things. I can handle 10 minutes etc.
Hey this was awesome explanation. But when your doing the whole car. How is the flash time determine since it’s a bigger object to paint
From the point in which you started spraying.
Thank you Brian. Your videos are very helpful and well explained.
Brian I love what your doing. I’ve vinyl wrapped my van but I feel your videos give me the confidence to do a spray job instead. Can u recommend a spray gun attachment. God bless
Depending on the state of the paint, vinyl is arguably better than repainting your car. It will conserve the paint underneatch as a protective layer, and repainting a car or vinyl wrapping can quickly come down to the same costs.
Brian has some of his sprayguns listed in his bio:
3M Performance Spray Gun: amzn.to/3BXUwPu
DV1 Clearcoat Gun: amzn.to/3BBqL5O
Clearcoat: amzn.to/3UsNgm1
@@MrDuLukes Hi buddy thank you very much for your response which makes perfect sense and thank you for the links👍
Your advice is excellent 👍
Hey Brian and the paint society, is the clear base or blending additive is what’s also used as a wet bed to blend metallics?..thanks
Always love the vidoes...and all the wealth of information...you're the best...thank you..
Love the concept of these videos.. i might dare to grab a paint gun one of this days..
brian!!! Can you do a video on how to mix paint? How to mix waterbased or solvent based and adding thinners etc!!!
Can i wait 1 day for applying 2k clear coat , because i have to apply stickers on bike tank and today the shop is on holiday , and also how much time does it take to cure 2k clear coat because i have to to some electrical works too on bike so can i apply clear coat and take my bike out on the same day
How did you know I googled this yesterday. Thanks! But what is too long between 2k clear over base before its too late, considering it takes set up time to clean out gun and mix clear.
u could spray base and then spray the clear the next day, but the longer u wait its most likely the clearcoat may not bond(stick) to the base and will peel in the future. When will it peel is anyones guess though.
Often manufacturers say it's ok to paint within 24 hours. To be 100% sure, check out the Technical data sheet of your paint. You might need to look it up online.
I like these Paint Society Quickies
Hey friend hopefully you see this what did you mix your pearl with?
Brian, I paint RC model airplanes. I’ve always used the PPG line of paints. My clear of choice is PPG 2021. Unfortunately it’s to expensive! What would be an alternative cost effective clear? Thanks
How long does it take to paint a car? For example I have a Scion TC and it’s going to get painted to a dark metallic green.
Thanks for your time and knowledge. Good video 🤘
I presume that you are using solvent base not water base which would need more time between coats. Very good video thank you.
Do you apply adhesive promoter on all bumpers or certain ones?
Brian,
Thanks for all the videos, you teach us so much.
Can I paint my vehicle 2 colors and a clear coat all with the same spray gun?
Technically yes.
Basically why painters use different guns is, the guns have different setups (caps, needles, hole-sizes), and disperse the fluids different.
Also you dont want any colour leftovers in your clearcoat for example, so cleanliness is key.
So while it's far from ideal for a professional to use one gun, for DIY and beginners it's completely fine.
Love your videos I always learn something new. Where are you located in Florida?
From Philippines here. Thankls
Hi Brian How long can I wait between color coats without cleaning the gun. If I wait 30 min can I just leave the gun with paint in it? Thanks.
Everypaint is different, but yes u can wait 30mins.
Is blending additive also labeled as “color blender” ?
Can you spray on Clearcoat after about 3 hours?
Hi do you have a forum where we can ask questions about things not covered in a video?
Is it really bad if you put 2k clear over 1k base that was sprayed the day before?
Hi Brian! I am your fan and adore your craftsmanship! I have a question for you: Is the interface water used between the mixed activator and the old and new paint the same material? Greatful!
Interface water ??
@@PaintSociety product name：fade out Thhinner
@@foxjoe2157 Old paint was solvent based, having a fast drying reducer.
New paint is waterbased, having litteral distilled water as reducer.
Hope that answers your question.
Does Sikkens have a Blending additive? If so can I get the product name and code?
If I was spraying primer from a spray can would it be ok to leave it overnight then apply colour and clear?
If you sand the primer once it cures
@@PaintSociety thanks, which grit would you suggest for that?
@@PaintSociety can you do the same with base to clear? Or do you have to base and then clear within a certain time?
@@10Tenths I would suggest P400 before primer. Depending on thickness of primer, sand primer with P600/P800.
@@the_bearded_anesthetist Depends on the manufacturer, often you have a 24 hour window. To be sure check out the technical data sheet of your used brand.
I would still advise to go around that issue, pick a day with enough time, to do (sealer), base and clear in one sweep.
Awesome video nice tip
It’s like you made this for me, I’m painting a 19 Lexus bumper just like yours. But I’m doing it from my house
This might be the most important video you have done to date. It seems that some things need to cost before it to be completely “dry” or “cured”, not interchangeable terms, while others need to be in that crucial window of tackiness so that the next coating will adhere better. It’s also crucial to have the right temp and especially humidity for the paint you are using. And manufacturer recommendations can sometimes be worthless. I’ve had a recent crisis of touch ups. Such that one tiny mistake requires sanding several coats away to get a good surface for recoat. My questions are: why does it seem that sometimes I can’t prevent “crazing” (cracks in the paint like dried mud cracks even with correct humidity range and temp, yet other times with same conditions it seems I could pile coats on with great results. I’m in Charleston, SC, so very similar conditions to yours, but in a garage, with a window AC, and a dehumidifier rated for 1500 square feet for climate control. Man I have to clean those filters every other day. Black paint and dust gets everywhere. Basically I shoot for less than 60% RH, and it’ll never get below 30%, so mid 40’s is good, 55% is still kinda high, 50% is fine, 30% leaves “dry” finish or runs, one or the other, ugh. Oh, and rattle cans exclusively. I went with Paintscratch.com after you used that in one video, and I’ll say it’s very good paint, but can’t find its makeup, and the MSDS is Greek to me. I’ve really got what I feel is good technique as far as distance, speed, overlap, etc. Regardless of primer or paint or clear, I always do a “mist” cost first. Then second coat a little wetter than that, then third wetter than the second, and so on. Crazy part is I have had good AND bad results with both the expensive, factory code mixed Paintscratch.com paint, and, of all things, out of desperation, Rustoleum. Car is Mercedes ML320, 040, black. The mixed paint has a strong blue tint until a zillion coats finally become black everywhere. But it applies better, with less chance of crazing, yet it’s often splotchy, The pattern is much better though for bigger panels. The Rustoleum Automotive grade goes on nicely, narrow pattern though, so it’s easy to get a run, but goes on glossy, and stays that way, unless it starts to craze. If I can get a solid base coat, let it cure at least six hours, I can then get away with applying clear coat, the SprayMax2K, only. Ok, again the questions. Why does it seem like the expensive stuff takes a million coats, yet when I wet sand for buffing, it gets down to primer too easily. I just don’t get it. 1000 grit, till it glides easily, then 1500, 2000, 3000, maybe 5000, then 3M compound, red print. The fender looks more glossy before even wet sanding than the tailgate looks after. The Rustoleum had only been on the bumpers, but easily got great gloss even before clear, and now the clear has been curing for ten days, still looks great. Oh yeah, temp is usually around 77-82F. On my Brilliant Black Pearl Magnum, paint went on splotchy, and as you said in another older video, don’t worry, the clear will get rid of that and bring out the gloss while wet sanding. It did just that. I do wet sand my primer to 400 grit until it looks and feels perfect when dry. Brilliant Black was splotchy, clear was splotchy, wet sanding several days later gave me a factory finish, I swear the results were enough to make me cry. The wagon is my baby though, so. But on the Merc, same habits, totally different results. Nice smooth 040 paint, nice clear coat, did at least three coats, but not five, can’t get it to shine glossy, even with usually wet sand regimen. And on the hood, same number of base coats, burned right through to primer and/or blue tint during 1000 or 2000 grit, safe, careful wet sanding. I do check for tackiness on a tape line before recoating too. Ok I guess the ultimate question is how many clear coats are too many? Using the SprayMax2K of course. I’ve heard three is where you want to stop. That regardless of cure time between coats, the first may not have cured enough and may not cure with five coats above it. I call BS on that. I’ve had the clear run, but never craze. On the bumpers I did at least four coats, but not six. I say this because a coat isn’t always a coat. Regardless of technique and attention to detail, that spray, combined with inevitable overspray getting on the coat you are still doing, is going to be different mills. Take a side of an SUV for example. You do the fender, then the front door, then the back, then the quarter. The fender gets overspray , dry, from the front door, and so on down the line. The paint bounces off, or even just from the tip, floats around a bit before settling on the paint you just slaved over for countless hours. That’s part of a coat. You see a “dry” spot while doing another section, and if it’s still wet, you do a quick and careful pass just to be sure, only on the third or fourth coat though. And if it’s still flashing off, wait and hit it later. I’ve had situations where all the care in the world, temp, RH, distance, speed, even paint type, have given me bad results that should have been e epic, and good results that should never have been. Right now my ML320 bumpers are being allowed an extended cure time, and got Rustoleum under 2K clear, and still look like they might not even need wet sanding. Yet, my tailgate, which got every detail perfect, won’t gloss no matter what. Why does the clear add gloss and cover splotchyness sometimes and not others? My base coat on the tailgate with proper 040 looked perfect before clear, and I allowed 12 hours before clear. Yet, the result sucks. I haven’t wet sanded the doors or fender yet and they’ve cured for three weeks. Is there really a window of time where the clear is safe to wet sand, but not fully hard, making wet sanding easier, as I’ve heard? I recently wet sanded six hour old 2K clear over crappy Duplicolor Inferno Red and the clear seemed hard as a rock, no problems at all. It also seems like a lot of the manufacture suggestions are motivated by getting you to use their products exclusively , and not best results, as I’ve broken lots of rules and gotten great results while sticking to the rules exactly and getting bad results too. Maybe too many variables for you to answer. To attempt to simplify, how many coats of base and clear, each, are too, many? Do I have to invest in a depth gauge to keep from cutting through what seems like plenty of base coats? And why can’t I just spot respray base over those burns and then recoat clear over that? Damn this shit is so complicated. It seems that using a compressor/gun would just complicate it even more with all the mixing and such. And don’t get me started on blend lines. Uuuuuughhhhh. Why can I still see sandpaper scratches through all the layers after clear when I couldn’t see nor feel them before base? Why does clear sometimes get rid of splotchy base but not other times? All related to this video.
thats alot of questions my dude
@@JimmyJiveJones I think he may be overthinking it .
@@Macmonkey1000 its just paint
Holy moly dude... let's try to dissect:
You are using spraycans, the paint within those cans differs quite a lot, to the ones used with a spraygun.
First off, shake your cans before every use, and in prolonged use inbetween really well. The paint seperates from the carrying fluids and solvents, leaving you with translucent paint coverage. Shaking will mix those again, allowing easier and faster coverage.
Spraycans have different caps, basically there's 3 types: o -shapes, O - shapes, and () - shapes. For greater surfaces use the () - shape caps, to reduce lines, and get even coverage.
If a layer is not fully cured, and then added another layer to it, it can result in a variety of problems.
Painting in a garage/room without ventilation leaves you with a big problem, especially if you paint great amounts. The solvents will build up in the ceiling, slowly falling down, causing havock on any paint.
The splotchy paint sounds to me, like the can is "spitting", meaning, there are little pockets of pure air in between the solid stream of paint, that is a sad reality of spraycans, can't do more than shaking the can inbetween, keep the cap clean and hope for the best.
If you do notice the spitting, go over the splotchy area again.
Paint cracks like dried mud, occur in specific conditions. If you have different layers of paint, and under the condition, that a underneath layer is not fully cured, while a followup layer covers that not cured layer, and the top layer dries faster than the not cured layer beneath.
Technically there is no "too many layers", it depends on the thickness of your layers. That's why that question is better answered in "µm". Factory paint is about 200 µm, bodyshops tend to be above that, up to 300 µm, given a unpainted, raw surface.
Now you probably don't sand down to a raw surface, so as a rule of thumb, don't have more than 3 complete layers of paint (sealer, colour, clearcoat).
Spraycans have a lot, and I mean a LOT of solvents in them, that try to condense outwards. Leftover solvents in cleacoat, will turn the clearcoat matte. That may be so for the entire panel, or splotchy parts.
Also those solvents might not like layers beneath, etching/destroying them. They are really aggressive.
Having different thickness of paint is really up to you. I always tell my apprentices: "painting is like moving a computer mouse. dont look at your hands, then the sceen, then hands, screen.... your hand moves, your eyes are fixed on the surface. Look at reflections while painting, you'll see if its a good/same amount of paint." For a horizontal hood you want to move slower, than a vertical door.
I would never do a "mist" layer in basecoat or clearcoat. Brian has some superb videos on how thick a layer should be, and how it looks like.
Elongated scrathes, like sanding scratches stemming from coarse sandpaper, tend to "fall in". Be sure to sand out your sand scratches properly, don't be shy to use guide coat. Don't do too big jumps, max 100, i.e: P80 to P180, to P240 to P320 is all fine. Don't do P80 to P240, the finer sandpaper can't dig in deep enough to get rid of the coarser scratches.
Be sure to sand a little bit more area with each finer sandpaper, at least increase by an inch every time.
Hope that about covers your questions.
Andrew, try painting one or two panels at a time. when a panel that you spray come out perfect replicate what you did on the perfect panel to the others. also, using a paint gun is much easier for bigger paint jobs. practice is key and when something works. do it that way. wow like you painted 3 cars with spray paint thats a lot of unessesaary hard work. just learn to spray with a spray gun
Are you air drying in between ? Or just letting it flash on “spray mode”
I wanna say Brian is spraying solvent base so theres no need for air blowers to dry the base.
Brian,
I'm currently trying Debeer HS clear coat. I've been working on painting a hood black, but I seem to keep getting dieback. I'm using slow hardener in the clear and the weather has been around 80-90 degrees. The TDS say 5-10 min between coats of clear. I have tried almost all the minutes within the 10min. It seems to still be somewhat tacky within the 10min. I know some say it should be tacky between coats and some say it should be handslick. I'm not sure if my flash time is causing my problem
theres many factors that can be causing ur problems. Putting on a clear too heavy would cause dieback. Clearing at a low pressure could do it too cause it didnt atomize properly. Basecoat not 100% dry. It could also be your booth not being perfectly balanced. Or even waiting too long to bake ur clear. Air drying it.
Heavily pigmented base coats (like black) need more flash time. Try giving it 30 min before clearing. Often, die back can be buffed out. Just give it a couple of days before doing so.
I should also saying a non proper cool down cycle could lead to dieback, even taking the car out of the booth too soon after the bake cycle could do it too
@@sealisland1 I usually give it 30-60min before clearing. I've tried cutting and buffing die back in the past, but looks like it eventually comes back over time
@@marcuswhite1403 it takes a long time for solvents to completely escape. That's why they say not to wax for 3 months. Try buffing after a month or so. Can't hurt and it may help.
Also, an expert painter told me that with the value bases(Omni, Nason...) he lets them sit for 24 hours before clearing.
Great video Brian
So I’m kinda confused, is sealer used before base just to not use so much base coat? Or is it’s purpose for something else?
even coverage and main function is prevents different shades of color in the paint
Hi, Brian! A quick question for you: is it possible that when using spray cans, the time between two coats to be shorter than if using a spray gun (in a spray booth)?
I will give it around the same time
@@PaintSociety Thanks!
Is sealer and epoxy filler same?
Are those flash times minimums? Can I seal one day, base coat the next, and clear the day after?
No you can’t. All within the window
Thanks from Jamaica
Great tips...
Hi, i'm having a problem with a wheels paint job, my paint it's sticky on only one wheel other it's perfect, same steps applied, i sprayed them 3 days ago, some tip to finish the job?
You will have to strip it and reapply paint
Thank you
Rattle canning some brackets that go on my car right now. Wish I had a spray gun 😂
can i finish spraying clear over the first coat of clear was done yesterday it got dark on me im painting outside
What happens to the paint if someone sprays the pearl on and doesn’t wait long enough to clear coat?
Greetings to you from Morocco Professor Brian I want to ask for paint booth is excellent
What do I do if I get pulled away after the first coat and it completely dries?
My brother works at a paint shop. He waits 3 minutes between each cost of clear using extra slow reducer. I never heard that before. I always hear from 10-15 minutes
depends on the clear some are tack & wack eg medium coat followed immediately by a wet 1, Debeer has a air dry clear thats a wet coat followed by another wet coat, most HS clears at app 23 degrees is 5 to 10 mins depending on hardener used so there no 1 rule
do we need to change any setting in paintbooth during flash time ??
It can help to heat up the booth a bit for flashing paint, especially if you have a lot of layers and/or horizontal panels. Be sure to have temperature back down to around 20C / 68F - 25C / 77F if possible.
This is not necessary, might just quicken the whole process.
Thank you
I wish the shop who messed up my burgundy Dodge caravan front bumper watched this episode. The base is to dark and the pearl hardly matched. High end shop who my insurance sent me too. Id love to learn how to paint to eventually fix it but i probably need a little practice first:)
It might differ from country to country, here in Germany, that might be a reason for a do-over, with costs covered completely by the bodyshop.
Now front and rear bumpers in generell are made out of plastic, and doors, rearpanels etc are out of metal. In 95% of the time, painted plastic will differ a bit from painted metal. That is true for factory paint, aswell as bodyshops.
Talk to the guys in the bodyshop, explain your concerns, and ask for reasons and a solution. Don't go immediate apesh!t, it happens to the best, bodyshops often have a very limited timerange to operate in.
best paint videos
Thank for the idea 🙏🙏
Subscribed!
Very educative
thanks
Any chance you'll do a viewers car as video? I could really use a full paint job
Lolol
great video ❤
Hi Brian, I used two different brands of rattle can on my new bumper, both cans did not match the original paint color on honda civic 2008. Paint code is NH701M grey metallic. Can I order this code somewhere in a quart size ready to spray without having to mix anything? I appreciate your help, thanks.
Check paint scratch . Com
Your not gonna match ur bumper to ur car with that paint code. That color is on the difficult side when it comes to matching.
take your car to your paint supplier they will bring the sample spray out cards of that color out to your car and match it they will make you a spray can for about 30 bucks lots of paint code have 9 variations or more
@@les1ed Thank you Brian, you're the best. Always enjoy your videos. You are so right about the variations, I just hung up with a paint supplier and he explained to me that these vehicles were made in 3 different places, mine was made in canada and the 11th letter in my Vin# is H. Now there are two variations one lighter the other darker, I chose the darker because the paint is more like a brown. He'll ship them tomorrow, hope this works. God Bless.
Sorry Les, I thought this was from Brian, I apologize. You are 100% correct. Thank you.
why did you use blender additive. It looked as if you where painting the whole bumper and not just blending a spot
Basically he did paint the entire bumper. The clear base is for a smooth paintlayer, means less risk to need to buff.
Thank you 🙏
Thank you!!!
Good stuff
Nice job 🙏🙏
But can you actually put too much paint on a non flexible object?