I'm 55. I've never even seen one of these blowtorches, let alone knew that that these tools ever existed. Bought one off ebay just now. Very cool. Thanks Joe.
We used to fill it up from the bottom, that's why it's shaped like a funnel. Anyway, good to see it working so well. A couple or more inches of square copper bar about an inch per side with a shaft & a handle would make a good match for an iron. You know it's hot when the flame's green.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up an identical torch at an antique shop yesterday for $12. My original thought was to build a custom gas lantern with it using Coleman lantern parts, but this thing is so cool I'm going to just get it running and leave it alone. It's actually too nice to modify.
Thank you for that video! I have the identical torch,was given to me by my late Grandfather. Very cool to see you get it working,I will restore mine as well. Pretty cool it’s 100 years old and still performs perfectly!
It now has high tech seals and a new piston design that removes the need for the cup seal. It used to hold pressure for several minutes with nothing but air. Now it will hold it for several hours. I plan to make anther video where I use it to solder but wanted to improve on the design before attempting it.
Dude thats too cool. I found the exact same model at the dump over the weekend. Glad I grabbed it. It was in the metal scrap pile. Everything's the same as yours but it has no date stamp on the stamped crest. I might try and retrofit a modern spark ignitor onto it. Having a pan of burning gas just hanging out under the torch head is just a little sketchy.
Nice find. Without preheating the head, the torch isn't going to work very well. I think they figured that out over 100 years ago. Gasoline under pressure with all sorts of potential leaks combined with hot surfaces, not to mention the human factor, the whole thing is just a little sketchy. Outside of advising you not to attempt to run yours, my only advice is check everything. Start with air, then water. I am testing some modern materials for the seals. It can hold air pressure for an hour where before it would leak down in 5 minutes or so. They have been soaking in various chemicals for a few weeks to make sure there are no problems. I would strongly suggest new seals. Sounds like the soldering irons were found with the torch, so I may make one more video where I demonstrate using it to solder.
That flame oscillation sounds beautiful! This is a well made torch for sure - great choice of the extent of restoration: it seems to me that this was exactly what was called for and no more.
I have made a few changes to the torch since this video using some modern materials for the seals and I designed and machined up a new piston for the pump. It looks the same from the outside but the new seals are much safer. With the leather seals, it would hold air pressure for 10-15 minutes or so. No fuel, just air. It will now hold air for about 12 hours. It turns out that the irons were found with the torch but they were not sure what they were. So I plan to make another video where I use it to solder.
Glad you didn't ruin it with a polishing cloth like other RUclipsrs have done. To my mind keping old tool working is the best way to honour their creators
These are not really rare or expensive so I would say restoring is more a personal preference. Sounds like in this case we have similar tastes. Dishsoap and a toothbush. It would be odd to see a 100 year old tool look new. It has a lot of history and I like to preserve that. Similar to saving the batteries in that old analog meter.
Nice, those things do sound intimidating when they run. I like to repair older things and try to keep the original finish also. Some are not worth much, but I just have a thing for older stuff and making them work again.
Two words: MOTORCYCLE. SERIES. And also all that weird historical stuff you have like the Vibroplex, grid-dip meter, etc. If I remember correctly you had access to an anechoic chamber so you almost certainly work for or have friends who work for probably some really fascinating stuff. You are literally both the best content creator (both in topic selection/knowledge and delivery of said content) on RUclips and seemingly one of the interesting folks out there as well. POST MORE.
The soldering iron is with John Mills (Doubleboost) in the UK, he just got it in the mail this week. Looks to be the matching soldering iron for this unit, though the handle has had a nice wire wrap repair.
After I clean the pump and change all seals and packing I’ll shut everything and pump it up while empty 50-75 pumps. Let it sit about a half hour to 2 hours and then dunk it in a bucket of water for 5 minutes and watch for bubbles. Then if no leaks I’ll polish everything up. I’d say most lanterns. Stoves and torches I rebuild don’t get fired up until I do a dunk test. I have had torches not leak at first. But after leaving it an hour or two pressurized it started leaking somewhere. Just how I like to make sure it doesn’t leak so I feel better using it.
It probably could be made to work with solder paste, by keeping the flame sufficiently away to heat things up slowly. Heat exchange from a gas to a solid is usually a slow process, but the torch naturally induces flow in addition to convection, so with sufficient control (whether organoleptic or aided by metrology) it would work, if the goal was just to show that it was possible without undue component damage/degradation.
Wasn't may have been a more appropriate choice as I doubt anyone would use one today. We have much safer, hotter and better control with a modern torch. Not to mention the soldering irons for electronics are nothing like what would have been used in this era. They offered a solder pot and a few other accessories. I had a friend who's dad's job was to file down the lead used in the body work. They were also used in plumbing.
I suspect you could use denatured alcohol instead of gasoline for the pre-heat burner. It would burn cleaner with less soot. Storm lamps tend to use the same system. Of course the disadvantage is you need to have two fuels on hand.
Thank you for the review with instructions! Just got me the same exact copy in a very nice condition at Goodwill for $14. Now need to follow your instructions and get it ready for some torching fun. Did you ever unscrew the valve at the base? What is that for?
Just picked mine up at a yard sale Everything is complete but it won't hold air the rubber piece on the end of the pumping mechanism that has the bolt seems alot thinner maybe with age?Where can I find this piece?TIA
This video will be great in preventing me from blowing myself up once I restore my 2 torches! One of them I got is a C&L twin needle one with 2 adjuster knobs that can run on kerosene or gasoline. Do you happen to know how to run those? Haven’t been able to find any info on it. Seems pretty rare.
Cradle beneath the torch is there to heat up the whole system so you can get the exhaust pressure you need. You should have poured some fuel there and let it heat up the torch,. Other than that good video!
i have one A600 but its says on stamped sign Clayton&lambert Peace or plated .......(maybe somnthing else) made in U.S.A PAID 4 JAN 1921 OTHER ...(cant read the rest) pen...something maybe pensilvania ? i doubt it .
If you look up an old ad for it, you will see it was designed for gasoline. In the USA, we typically refer to gasoline as gas. You can find this in the Merriam Webster dictionary. Even an idiot knows we are pumping a liquid into our cars. As far as what it runs on, I assume we are talking about the combustion process. Gasoline will require oxygen to burn. Only the molecules that have access to oxygen will burn. If you were to light a container of gasoline, on the molecules on the surface that are exposed to oxygen will burn. Getting a homogeneous mixture of fuel and air can be a science in itself.
Misnaming the item doesn't help anybody, and you completely ignore the fact that RUclips is a GLOBAL audience. Only Americans use the slang term "Gas" to refer to liquid fuel for motor vehicles, and it means something completely different everywhere else in the world. In today's world, even in an American store, if you ask for a "Gas Torch" you would be offered a product fuelled by Butane, Propane, LPG, NPG, Acetylene or some other gas or mixture. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowtorch Therefore, to avoid any confusion, collectors (including Americans) most commonly call this a *"LIQUID FUELLED BLOW TORCH"* . Refer: vintageblowtorches.com/
@@johncoops6897 Global-audience-wise: so is Hollywood, and it doesn’t take much movie exposure to get to know what “gas” is in local parlance of, oh, about 0.3 billion people, whose culture (for better or worse) is a worldwide export :) I knew what “gas” was in communist Poland in the 80s, based on nothing else but what American movies were shown on Polish TV. Claiming that “gas” is “wrong” is like the color vs colour discourse: pretty much pointless unless one just wants to heat up the atmosphere a bit. In some areas of Midwest, the local parlance has the “need action+ed” form, eg. Those pencils need sharpened. As long as the teachers know and let the kids know that it’s local dialect, everything is fine at least by my minuscule standards. *TL;DR* Not the lorry vs truck debate again [eyeroll].
I'm 55. I've never even seen one of these blowtorches, let alone knew that that these tools ever existed. Bought one off ebay just now. Very cool. Thanks Joe.
We used to fill it up from the bottom, that's why it's shaped like a funnel. Anyway, good to see it working so well. A couple or more inches of square copper bar about an inch per side with a shaft & a handle would make a good match for an iron. You know it's hot when the flame's green.
Thanks for the video. I just picked up an identical torch at an antique shop yesterday for $12. My original thought was to build a custom gas lantern with it using Coleman lantern parts, but this thing is so cool I'm going to just get it running and leave it alone. It's actually too nice to modify.
Thank you for that video!
I have the identical torch,was given to me by my late Grandfather.
Very cool to see you get it working,I will restore mine as well.
Pretty cool it’s 100 years old and still performs perfectly!
It now has high tech seals and a new piston design that removes the need for the cup seal. It used to hold pressure for several minutes with nothing but air. Now it will hold it for several hours. I plan to make anther video where I use it to solder but wanted to improve on the design before attempting it.
Great video. Love how you showed how you tested. Would have also liked to see how you restored it. Good job!
Dude thats too cool. I found the exact same model at the dump over the weekend. Glad I grabbed it. It was in the metal scrap pile. Everything's the same as yours but it has no date stamp on the stamped crest. I might try and retrofit a modern spark ignitor onto it. Having a pan of burning gas just hanging out under the torch head is just a little sketchy.
Nice find. Without preheating the head, the torch isn't going to work very well. I think they figured that out over 100 years ago. Gasoline under pressure with all sorts of potential leaks combined with hot surfaces, not to mention the human factor, the whole thing is just a little sketchy. Outside of advising you not to attempt to run yours, my only advice is check everything. Start with air, then water. I am testing some modern materials for the seals. It can hold air pressure for an hour where before it would leak down in 5 minutes or so. They have been soaking in various chemicals for a few weeks to make sure there are no problems. I would strongly suggest new seals.
Sounds like the soldering irons were found with the torch, so I may make one more video where I demonstrate using it to solder.
That flame oscillation sounds beautiful! This is a well made torch for sure - great choice of the extent of restoration: it seems to me that this was exactly what was called for and no more.
I have made a few changes to the torch since this video using some modern materials for the seals and I designed and machined up a new piston for the pump. It looks the same from the outside but the new seals are much safer. With the leather seals, it would hold air pressure for 10-15 minutes or so. No fuel, just air. It will now hold air for about 12 hours. It turns out that the irons were found with the torch but they were not sure what they were. So I plan to make another video where I use it to solder.
Glad you didn't ruin it with a polishing cloth like other RUclipsrs have done. To my mind keping old tool working is the best way to honour their creators
These are not really rare or expensive so I would say restoring is more a personal preference. Sounds like in this case we have similar tastes. Dishsoap and a toothbush. It would be odd to see a 100 year old tool look new. It has a lot of history and I like to preserve that. Similar to saving the batteries in that old analog meter.
Nice, those things do sound intimidating when they run. I like to repair older things and try to keep the original finish also. Some are not worth much, but I just have a thing for older stuff and making them work again.
Two words: MOTORCYCLE. SERIES. And also all that weird historical stuff you have like the Vibroplex, grid-dip meter, etc. If I remember correctly you had access to an anechoic chamber so you almost certainly work for or have friends who work for probably some really fascinating stuff.
You are literally both the best content creator (both in topic selection/knowledge and delivery of said content) on RUclips and seemingly one of the interesting folks out there as well. POST MORE.
I had a few videos of the bikes that I took down due to infringement.
The soldering iron is with John Mills (Doubleboost) in the UK, he just got it in the mail this week. Looks to be the matching soldering iron for this unit, though the handle has had a nice wire wrap repair.
Thanks for the link. I just subscribed to their channel and will check it out.
I really enjoy your content, Joe. Thanks for sharing. It seems like you'd be a cool guy to have as a friend or neighbor!
After I clean the pump and change all seals and packing I’ll shut everything and pump it up while empty 50-75 pumps. Let it sit about a half hour to 2 hours and then dunk it in a bucket of water for 5 minutes and watch for bubbles. Then if no leaks I’ll polish everything up. I’d say most lanterns. Stoves and torches I rebuild don’t get fired up until I do a dunk test. I have had torches not leak at first. But after leaving it an hour or two pressurized it started leaking somewhere. Just how I like to make sure it doesn’t leak so I feel better using it.
Video of the same torch being used to solder some modern components. ruclips.net/video/5Gjz6jqOiSQ/видео.html
Lol, I want to see that surface mount soldering... if anyone could I guess you would find a way to make that work.
It probably could be made to work with solder paste, by keeping the flame sufficiently away to heat things up slowly. Heat exchange from a gas to a solid is usually a slow process, but the torch naturally induces flow in addition to convection, so with sufficient control (whether organoleptic or aided by metrology) it would work, if the goal was just to show that it was possible without undue component damage/degradation.
Can you use regular gasoline
This particular one I suspect is jetted for gasoline but they offered jetting for kerosene as well.
This device is not only for soldering. :)
Wasn't may have been a more appropriate choice as I doubt anyone would use one today. We have much safer, hotter and better control with a modern torch. Not to mention the soldering irons for electronics are nothing like what would have been used in this era. They offered a solder pot and a few other accessories. I had a friend who's dad's job was to file down the lead used in the body work. They were also used in plumbing.
pretty cool. remember seeing these in bugs bunny cartoons! thanks, joe!
Check out the 1956 science fiction film IT CONQUERED THE WORLD; Lee Van Cleef uses a blowtorch to destroy a monster from another planet!
I suspect you could use denatured alcohol instead of gasoline for the pre-heat burner. It would burn cleaner with less soot. Storm lamps tend to use the same system. Of course the disadvantage is you need to have two fuels on hand.
While Coleman fuel I show didn't create a lot of soot, considering the number of times this torch will be operated I don't think it will matter.
Thank you for the review with instructions! Just got me the same exact copy in a very nice condition at Goodwill for $14. Now need to follow your instructions and get it ready for some torching fun. Did you ever unscrew the valve at the base? What is that for?
That's where it is normally filled. I just filled mine from the top. Have fun making the seals.
Just picked mine up at a yard sale Everything is complete but it won't hold air the rubber piece on the end of the pumping mechanism that has the bolt seems alot thinner maybe with age?Where can I find this piece?TIA
This one had all leather seals. They all needed replacement. You will need to have new parts fabricated.
I have a Army surplus WWII flamethrower that needs restoration.
I have three of these things abd imma try and restore them
Note they are the 800 series of torch
Nice. They are not worth much, or at least the ones I have. I wouldn't be too concerned about damaging a national treasure.
This video will be great in preventing me from blowing myself up once I restore my 2 torches! One of them I got is a C&L twin needle one with 2 adjuster knobs that can run on kerosene or gasoline. Do you happen to know how to run those? Haven’t been able to find any info on it. Seems pretty rare.
Sorry but I only looked into the the few that I was given. There is a lot of information on the internet about them. Good luck with your restorations.
@@joesmith-je3tq okay thanks
Cradle beneath the torch is there to heat up the whole system so you can get the exhaust pressure you need. You should have poured some fuel there and let it heat up the torch,. Other than that good video!
You should have actually watched the video before commenting.
@@joesmith-je3tq I did watch it but after night out drinking. Obviously missed some things. Don't even remember writing that comment. :)
@@MladenMijatov If I were blackout drunk, there is no way I would be back on-line in 9 hours!! Maybe in a week.
@@joesmith-je3tq Can't say I am feeling like spring water either but work must be done.
i have one A600 but its says on stamped sign
Clayton&lambert
Peace or plated .......(maybe somnthing else)
made in U.S.A
PAID 4 JAN 1921
OTHER ...(cant read the rest)
pen...something maybe pensilvania ? i doubt it .
That's not a "Gas Torch". It's running on a liquid.... in this case it's being fuelled by a naphtha-based mixture.
If you look up an old ad for it, you will see it was designed for gasoline. In the USA, we typically refer to gasoline as gas. You can find this in the Merriam Webster dictionary. Even an idiot knows we are pumping a liquid into our cars. As far as what it runs on, I assume we are talking about the combustion process. Gasoline will require oxygen to burn. Only the molecules that have access to oxygen will burn. If you were to light a container of gasoline, on the molecules on the surface that are exposed to oxygen will burn. Getting a homogeneous mixture of fuel and air can be a science in itself.
Misnaming the item doesn't help anybody, and you completely ignore the fact that RUclips is a GLOBAL audience. Only Americans use the slang term "Gas" to refer to liquid fuel for motor vehicles, and it means something completely different everywhere else in the world.
In today's world, even in an American store, if you ask for a "Gas Torch" you would be offered a product fuelled by Butane, Propane, LPG, NPG, Acetylene or some other gas or mixture.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowtorch
Therefore, to avoid any confusion, collectors (including Americans) most commonly call this a *"LIQUID FUELLED BLOW TORCH"* .
Refer: vintageblowtorches.com/
@@johncoops6897 No one cares.
@@joesmith-je3tq - perhaps not. I'm looking forward to your next Ulti-Feeter teardown and analysis.
@@johncoops6897 Global-audience-wise: so is Hollywood, and it doesn’t take much movie exposure to get to know what “gas” is in local parlance of, oh, about 0.3 billion people, whose culture (for better or worse) is a worldwide export :) I knew what “gas” was in communist Poland in the 80s, based on nothing else but what American movies were shown on Polish TV. Claiming that “gas” is “wrong” is like the color vs colour discourse: pretty much pointless unless one just wants to heat up the atmosphere a bit. In some areas of Midwest, the local parlance has the “need action+ed” form, eg. Those pencils need sharpened. As long as the teachers know and let the kids know that it’s local dialect, everything is fine at least by my minuscule standards. *TL;DR* Not the lorry vs truck debate again [eyeroll].
It should have a rag in the cup for a pilot.