The Solution to All My R6 Issues?!
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- A few weeks ago I posted a video about a common issue I've been experiencing with my R6 where my shutter speed accidentally dips too low. Well I got HUNDREDS of comments with suggestions and the most popular one by far was to switch to Auto ISO. Well, in my 13 years of shooting I've never shot with Auto anything, so I decided to give it a try to see if this is the solution to all my issues!
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Auto-ISO is great for outdoor sports where the light is constantly changing and there is no time to adjust your shutter speed like you normally do. This is also true for wildlife. I do this and have my control ring set to exposure compensation. I think yours is set to K. For your type of work, setting a minimum shutter speed to protect yourself is a much better idea. I like that you are a $10,000 wedding photographer but you are still willing and able to learn things. Bravo!
Thanks for sharing Phil!
100% agree that it works well with Sport and wildlife photography when speed is the key and you don't have time to adjust for exposure.
Its also important in weedings where you need to act fast in a dimly lit situation. The less fidling you do the more moments you get.
I've never seen someone make something so hard that is so easy. Choose your exposure to what you want, put Auto iso on, set the camera to follow her eyes. done.
Thanks for watching!
She's a "pro" and not going take criticism lightly.
Totally agree 👍🏽
@@neostephens8980 🤣 I can handle a little RUclips comment. It’s true. This should be simple. I’ve just never used it before and I don’t prefer it. I make enough money to support a team of 7 full time employees being a “pro” for 13 years now so I’ll just keep doing my thing and ya’ll can keep doing what is working so well for you! 👍🏻🤪 I appreciate all this time you guys dedicate to my channel 😉
Not sure where you saw this labeled at “tutorial”? Also not sure what type of people you help on here but some people do more than tutorials, they show up and authentically show their process of trying something new. If I was a pro at this setting, I would have claimed it. You are claiming that for me because it makes you right about your opinion of me. That’s fine. I’m probably not your person on RUclips… but ironically… I get so much of your time. 🤣 thank you!
I've been full time for 15 years and I teach photography workshops and teach how to shoot manual. But what I use for portrait sessions 100% of the time when I'm not using flash is Aperture priority, Auto ISO, evaluative metering, eye autofocus. With the R6, that simply means... one finger on aperture, thumb on the wheel for exposure compensation with exposure sim through the viewfinder and that's it. My clients see every shot SOOC that I take and the exposure and focus is correct on 99.9% of them every time. And that's with 3rd party EF mount lenses.
Thanks for watching!
That's no different to shooting full manual and changing ISO manually! Riding the exposure compensation dial or riding the ISO dial. However, unless you lock in a min shutter speed in Settings, you risk exposure compensation bringing the shutter speed down too low. I never shoot auto anything.
@@cooloox But your camera assumes you are shooting hand held and knows what lens you are using and your level of zoom for each shot so it will raise the aperture before lowering the shutter speed. Those Canon cameras are pretty dang smart. For example, if I'm using 70-200 at 200mm, it's going to raise the ISO before dropping the shutter below 1/200th. Alternatively, it will allow a slower shutter speed if I'm using my 35mm prime.
@@ritchiewiiiReally depends on what you are photographing. Works with mostly static subjects, but not when there is plenty of movement.
That last one was a great suggestion! I changed mine right away! Because literally the next session I did AFTER I watched your video about the low shutter speed I did the same thing!! This will make me feel much safer!
Thanks for sharing Nickelle!
I truly love seeing you shoot through the camera like this! I think we could all learn from more videos like this! Just hands on watching you work through things and your flow, love it!
i have been shooting events with Auto ISO and Aperture Priority professionally for years. Minimum Shutter Speed set to 1/125 usually. Works great.
Best option..
Same here, the way to go as far as I’m concerned. Minimum shutter speed for portraits set to 1/250.
Me too! Obviously depends on the camera how well this works but it works amazing for me!
Exactly!
In this situation in bright sunlight is not the best example for auto ISO.
I’m definitely saved a few times at weddings when I’m in the church and come outside, in bright sunlight.
After learning how to shot manual, I did exactly what you did. Works absolutely great!!
Hi Katelyn, I followed a lot of your courses, basically because: 1. You own the same camera, 2. You’re creative approach, 3. Your editing skills and high-end delivery, 4. Your preset and black and white proces, 5. Learning how to pose people, 6. Learning about secondary light and consistency and of course your personality! But, technically 🙈. Still love you ❤️
Thanks for watching!
I’ve watched both videos and none of these issues are R6 problems. If you’re shooting manual, as you’ve stated, you’re the one physically changing the shutter speed. If you’re not aware of what your settings are throughout your session, respectfully, it’s a user error. The best thing to teach is shooting with purpose. To slow down and being more intentional.
As someone who has also been shooting 13 years, teaches / trains other photographers, and owns a Canon r6, I don’t have any of these problems.
I love all of your other videos and I usually don’t comment. I just don’t want these videos to deter anyone from purchasing the Canon R6, because it’s an incredible camera.
This is said out of love, not judgement. So please don’t think I’m being negative. That’s not my intention.
Thanks for sharing!
Agree. How after 13 years does someone not pay attention to what settings they are on? The way it was worded made it seem like the r6 had an issue which is what made me interested in watching it. But I guess that’s the nature of RUclips titles these days.
@@WesleyDropDead It’s probably not the best title… it’s more of a mirrorless vs DSLR shooting “problem”. She explained it in the previous video. Basically, in taking advantage of the feature of mirrorless cameras where you see your exposure before you shoot, she was “blindly” changing her shutter speed until her exposure looked good in the viewfinder and kind of forgot to keep an eye on what the actual shutter speed setting was. That was something she was more conscious of when making her exposure adjustments on her DSLR and would then adjust ISO simultaneously to keep her shutter speed high enough. But she got out of her normal exposure adjustment mechanics when she started shooting with her R6. Instead of pulling the camera away from her eye to change her settings, now she was just quickly spinning the shutter dial while looking through the viewfinder and paying attention only to the image levels and not the information readout. So if she can use a guardrail in camera to keep her from accidentally dropping below 1/125 or 1/250, that probably is her best solution.
As for making auto ISO and exp. comp. work… I’m not sure why she was being held to focus and recompose, instead of moving her focus point or using facial/eye detection AF. Maybe it had something to do with her recorder… I don’t know. But I can see how that was throwing her off. Every time she recomposed, it changed what her spot meter was reading. It’s probably because she is a back button focuser, so when she recomposed and then went to hit her shutter, it took the meter reading again. She would need to disable AE on the shutter button.
@@eschrad spot on
@@eschrad 100% with you about her blindly changing shutter speed. But wedding days are stressful so I can see it happening by going too fast.
As for the focus and recompose, she mentioned in the video that using the recorder for the viewfinder footage it disables her screen (limitation with Canon's) so instead of tapping on the screen as usual, she had to focus and recompose. She doesn't normally do this and mentioned it was an adjustment for her in the video. Personally I would have preferred they not use the viewfinder recording as it hampered the point they were trying to make so much.
I use auto ISO often to shoot dance in a theater setting, the light is shifting all over the place and I use the lowest shutter speed that freezes the motion enough usually 160 or 200th a wide aperture to let in as much light as possible, widest for solos and more depth for groups. Auto ISO follows the ever changing lighting when the shutter and aperture are essentially slammed to the limit due to the low light with dance in motion. Exposure compensation also becomes necessary for spotlights and backlights, that is what I have track and move around during the performance.
Thanks for watching!
I think the r6 is so good even with high iso. That instead of changing the shutter speed, just raising the iso manually for more light
Right. Easy to do with R6. Good point.
Thanks for watching!
Katelyn, the problem is you didn't go full auto. Does the R6 have the incredible FV mode? It's a game changer. The way I set up my EOS R was so that everything I want to shoot in auto, is in auto by default in FV mode. Then as soon as you change iso, shutter, aperture they stay locked in, but everything else is full auto. I use the lens control ring to change exposure (this is key*) and eye/face AF. The last thing I do is set the FV reset so that little useless tiny button on top resets everything back to full auto FV. You can still set your minimum shutter, I'm telling you the engineers that thought up this FV mode are brilliant and most dinosaurs don't use it. Just like wanting the joystick back haha. Who uses a joystick when your thumb can literally drag focus in a split second to anywhere in your viewfinder??? The multi function touch bar was actually a step forward and much more valuable than a joystick but everybody complained and now we get the uselss joystick back haha. It's absurd, embrace innovation people!
Thanks for watching!
Set minimum shutter speed and make sure not going below that ( unsafe zone) 👍🏼
Thanks!
Another thing to try is to set the slowest shutter speed your camera will do to a 1/125 th, so it won't let you dial your shutter speed slower, so when you're adjusting things it'll stop at 1/125th and then you'll notice and then adjust ISO.
Thanks for watching!
Why would you not move the focal point instead of decomposing? That would solve the problem of exposure shifting.
It is fascinating how naturally you speak to the camera. Good job!
Thanks for watching!
I’m a fan of manual mode with auto iso, then using the control ring you can control iso if you don’t want to use exposure comp. Been working a treat for me
Thanks for watching!
FLV mode on the r6 lets you set what you want when you want or go 100% manual as conditions warrant. All without changing modes. It has been a game changer for me.
Not sure if you've covered it before but there's also a shutter speed limit setting so it won't go below a set value. Thanks for making great content for us all!
Glad it is helpful!
Aperture priority, autoiso from 100-25600, shutter min. speed at 1/250 - alle problems solved ;) working like that from 3 years. You just seting aperture and using exposition wheel to make picture "brighter or darker" . thats it.. works perfectly
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for teaching me how to shoot raw and dual record in Raw and JPEG indirectly through this video.
Anytime!
This video reminds me of the Northrup's (great photographers, but when they find a product they don't like, they try to make it seem as if the product is flawed or difficult to use). Seems like when people get popular on RUclips, they become the "bee's knees.
Thanks for sharing!
LOVEEEEEEEEEE This! I just set mine to 250! THANKS sweetheart!
Thanks Maggie!!
Why do you unnaturally overexpose your portraits? They don’t look natural to me.
They don’t look natural to any middle aged man following a modern natural light photographer’s work who is in her 30’s and shoots more wide open than their preference. There are a ton of other channel options for you out there. 😉
Just use evaluative metering, keep the camera in program mode for all natural light shots and touch up with exposure compensation as needed. I’ve been doing photography since 1972 when I became our yearbook photographer. All we had was manual then. You guys have it easy! Stop trying to make photography difficult!!!
Thanks for sharing!
I think that with mirrorless technologies it’s a good idea to expose full manually because you have final result before you shot in the viewfinder. I always have done like this and I love it.
Thanks for watching!
Did you know that when you use ISO Auto in M mode that you can program the SET button for exposure compensation?
The R6 has the Fv modes, which allow you to give the camera a different way of automatically only adjusting ISO.
Thanks for sharing!
You can set it to lock exposure (not talking about using ae-l button) and lock focus with the half press/ back button. That is the problem you are facing. Your camera is only locking focus, not exposure. Therefore when you recompose, it recalculate exposure for where the focus point now rests. with that function enabled, it would work like a charm.
Thanks for sharing!
Thx!
@KatelynJames I understand you tho I kinda miss the dslr system in which the control was fully in your hands I feel the same way with all these mirrorless cameras
This video shows you really read the comments. Very good! I understand your point. Thanks for trying auto ISO
Thanks so much Carlos!
@@KatelynJames Just last night I was at a conference. I set my speed at 1/200 (I was using my 70-200 handheld) to make sure no motion blur ocurred, and set my aperture to f5.6 because I didn't want extra shallow depth of field. I was constantly changing my ISO manually. ISO is just another variable in the correct exposure formula. I am glad the R6 has the ISO control dial so accesible. Thanks again for your videos!
You have encouraged me to be paying attention to what I do with such a capable camera.
It’s the funniest thing, I was listening and understanding everything you were saying. Then as soon as Ty comes on, it’s like, he started speaking Russian and I had to *FOCUS* to get what he was saying. I just learn so much better from other women!!!
Ha ha he has that effect
Place your focus on the back button and your exposure lock on the shutter button. Focus with AF-On, half press shutter, and recompose. Becomes second nature.
Thanks for watching!
Older Canon camera here - but I've been loving auto ISO in place of when I'd use Aperture Priority mode, rather than in place of when I'd use Manual.
On the other hand - what Canon could add to help is *warn* below a minimum shutter speed, rather than *block* it. That would be a setting you could leave on all the time, and selectively ignore when necessary.
Thanks for watching!
I was thinking the same. Simple option, that would be the perfect solution for me... Hello, Canon, do you hear us ? ;-)
This has quickly become one of my favourite youtube channels. I shoot mostly everything with a zoom lens and have decided to make the jump today and bought the RF 28-70. Thank you for all your content on it, I'm so excited !!!
You’re gonna love it!
Yes setting the minimum available shutter speed is the best for you. Go team "Minimum shutter speed.". I have tried what you did in this video and quickly realized that I needed to focus and recompose what I was getting away from with the mirrorless setup.
Thanks for watching!
So staying on manual after seeing this :P gives me anxiety especially for a wedding when I need to know.
Totally agree!
Good morning from Sunny Malta. Love your posts….so fresh.
Thanks for listening
so this is what i do on my canon rp. i'm using manual and set the lowest shutter speed to 1/125 and change it manually if my subject is moving really fast. for aperture i set it to 1.8 most of the time cause that's how i like it and i'm always using auto iso and set the max range of 6400. the reason for that is 6400 iso is the highest usable iso for my taste, you can go higher if your camera handles it very well or just don't care of the noise. note that i'm using Variable ND Filter during the day so i don't crank up my shutter speed every time especially if i want to capture a motion. also i'm using Servo AF instead of One Shot AF. hope this simple settings helps for beginners.
Happy Shooting
Thanks for watching!
I’m with you, I totally like to be in control of my camera settings, no auto anything.
Thanks for watching Joy!
Here's a question. Why spend the money for one of these modern technological marvels and then not use the technology? Kind of a waste of money.
I understand that using a camera in complete auto is not really professional. But, to let the camera pick the iso, now that it doesn't compromise image quality, it is not a matter of letting the camera thinking for you. It doesn't make any photographer less or more professional or in control of their work. I know that you didn't say that, but I know where it comes from: professionals shoot manual. Flash in manual. Camera in manual. Sometimes technology helps.
The same thing was with focus (in the past). "I don't use auto focus at all". Now, we just select one focus point, and we let the camera do the rest.
So, sometimes we need to get advantage of technology, and it doesn't make us less professional to the world.
Thanks for watching
take a look at wedding photographers who charge 30-50k or world famous magnum photographers. Many of them just use P... professionals don't have time to fiddle with settings. Shooting Auto isn't professional is a conspiracy theory.
@@arunashamal sometimes you have to input your own settings to get the specific results you want, or to maintain the style, the look, your photography identify. But, if some 50K photographers shoot in P and it is working for them, that's fine too. Everyday, technology is letting people focus more in style, creativity, and less in how the camera works. We just need to get use to it. Some people will say it's not fair, but we can't fight it.
There is a setting to lock exposure when the shutter is half pressed. This would lock the iso to the value you or the camera found on the place where the focus point was set. In your camera might be off as its changes when you recompuse.
Thanks for sharing!
Haha. 90% of the time I shoot auto ISO. 99% hit rate with my R6 with any lens EF or RF
Haha. Glad to hear it works for you!
I’ve been hitting 99% with auto iso too! I’m learning to trust what the camera is doing yet I keep an eye 👁 on it just in case it goes crazy. I’ve only seen it happened once.
Every since I was told ISO adds noise I try to keep it as low as possible…but recently on my R I found out that I can go up to 6400 without the image looking unusable…So what I did is went into my settings and made it where my camera will not even allow me to go any higher than 6400 in any mode. Though I try to stay around 400-800 and 100-400 goal…I know that I can go up to 6400 if needed without totally destroying the image…but if I’m in the 400-800 range I’m happy
Off the bat, auto iso fixed those blown out highlights. We can always brighten, we cannot recover blown highlights
Thanks for watching!
I really stay away from Auto ISO like the plague! I had my thumb wheel on the R5/R6 set to ISO and when the camera was at my side it would always get bumped to ISO. I fixed this by having my ISO now using the Set button and shutter dial. The thumb wheel is now reserved for Kelvin.I just like being in total control so I agree with everything you mentioned.
Thanks for sharing
When using digital cameras with high AF point counts, instead of focusing and recomposing, you can meter and recompose focus.
When using Spot Metering is they R6 only metering at the circle in the center of the view?
When you use Evaluative Metering, then camera meters the scene at locked AF point.
Digital cameras allow for completely different shooting techniques compared to film.
Zone AF modes are more reliable than you might realize. It allows the camera to focus and meter with any active AF point.
Thanks for watching!
Auto ISO helps me a lot with wildlife photography when I suddenly will see something I wish to photograph and don't have a lot of time to make adjustments.
Thanks for sharing!
I tend to shoot in auto iso mode unless I’m in a low light situation and purposely don’t want the higher iso settings because of noise in the image. I think the bigger issue though is slow shutter speeds creating motion blur. Most of the time Lightroom saves my butt on an underexposed or overexposed image whereas it can’t really do much with a blurry image. Love my r6 though, good advice!
I use a6600 and auto iso is set for 6400 max. Sure r6 also has that option.
Thanks!
I'm also a Sony shooter, and I set a number on the control dial to be Aperture priority with auto iso and minimum shutter speed. I set my maximum iso and set my minimum shutter speed to a custom button on the camera, so I can quickly change it for different scenarios. Mark Galer, a Sony ambassador, has a very informative video about this. This is the only way I shoot, and honestly, it's so good, it seems like there's not much point in shooting manual. I'd miss so many shots. Maybe this feature didn't work as well on older cameras?
Just one thing to mention here: if you shoot lower ISO and keep the image purposefully darker, then increase exposure in post it will have more noise than the same photo exposed to the same final brightness in camera with higher ISO. I'd post my test pictures here where I tried this out because I once thought keeping ISO lower and increasing exposure in post was better than the other way around, but links in comments probably get flagged. I can just say: boy was I wrong.
A grainy image is always better than a blurry image
The reason why your focus recompose chaging exposure may be because you have assigned the half press to metering? just my guess.
Good point!
I’m sure it’s been mentioned, and this video is a year old at this point, but Evaluative Metering mode works with Whole Area AF, especially with metering for faces. Evaluative metering is a pretty smart metering mode, and will adjust your settings to meter for what you are focusing on. That said, I’ve never really been a fan of auto exposing while in single point AF, because the metering modes wouldn’t work well for me in the past.
With the newer cameras, the auto exposure works insanely well, the caveat being that you are using Whole Area AF with Evaluative Metering.
Yes, for all those reasons I purposely do not use auto iso, ever. Ow about that shutter speed setting … I probably should be making better use of that feature.
Why still focus recompose??? just move te focus point or use face detection!
Thanks for watching!
I use auto iso in video RAW or 10 bit pro res HQ 422 so that I can adjust easy in post. I look at the waveform and adjust to whatever value I want. My brain is too slow to not do auto iso in fast situations
Thanks for watching!
Unless I’m using flash, I almost always use auto iso and exposure compensation to adjust accordingly. I find it to be a bit of a safety net and much faster to shoot in that I will likely never have a shot that’s too over/underexposed, and typically only have to adjust shutter and aperture for the effect I want, camera will sort iso.
Thanks for sharing!
I have also started to use auto iso but not to go over 800 on my lumix camera and also if in low light conditions and see noise I wack out topaz denoise as that does a sterling job of repairing.
Thanks for watching!
I wouldn't shoot Auto ISO, I would just set the shutter speed where you want and just switch to changing ISO to adjust exposure instead of changing shutter speed to adjust exposure
Thanks for watching!
Yes, yes and yes. The headache of semi-auto settings. 😂
Thanks for watching!
“Way underexposed” for you is how it shoot every single shot 😂 your normal exposure gives me anxiety. So crazy how different different photographers shoot.
Thanks for sharing Emily!
The r6 doesn’t work underexposed. DSLRs work great underexposed.
@@sydneychristensen2386 what 😂😂 you should look at my Instagram. My R6 works fine underexposed.
I’m a Freestyle (nature, wildlife, landscape, street, portrait, sports photographer) on the civilian side and also a photographer for the military, (portraits, live action, combatives, aircraft etc.) If you know how to use your camera and understand the histogram and or light meter, there’s no point in shooting auto anything.. Learn your equipment and practice.. Also using back button focus is the way to go imo.
Thanks for sharing!
Try shooting manual but set aperture and shutter speed first then manually adjust iso to get desired exposure
Thanks for sharing!
Auto ISO is a life saver when you are in situations where the light is always changing and when your subject is changing in relation to the light source. Full manual works for your style of photography where the subject is relatively static.
Why not use face detect??
I can try that next time.
I might put that max shutter on when I'm doin photos with on camera flash ☝🏿
Thanks for watching!
Have had my R6 for a few weeks now and here's what I've settled on. SS and Aperture are the creative things I want to control. ISO just is what it is. So, I'm playing around with shooting in Manual with Auto ISO. I tried FV, but didn't care for the interface and IIRC, Exposure Comp goes away (it may have been a different control - but I lost the ability to do SOMETHING in Fv --- though I may play around with it more.).
Thanks for sharing Kathie!
interesting. So if you're all manual, how are you determining "correct exposure"? Using the meter in the viewfinder? I'm one of those that suggested auto iso and exposure compensation. Yes, it can be unsettling at first, but if you have the controls set up for that and use exposure simulation and evaluative metering it's actually very consistent. Part of of what it looked like watching the video was you were cranking too hard on the controls. Remember, with evaluative metering, it will set an ISO that fits as much of the tonal scale in the picture into the middle of the histogram and if you have face detect/Eye AF enabled, it prioritizes correct exposure for the detected face/eyes. It knows where the faces and skin tones are in the picture and will set the exposure to give the best face and skin tones if you let it. Canon's metering is very accurate and you will rarely need to adjust more than a stop, which is only 3 clicks in either direction, and more often than not, it's one or two clicks. It's less of a "crank that thing" and more of a "finesse it up and down a click at a time". Of course, this is coming from a fellow R6 user who does this all the time. You're not really giving up that control, you're guiding it, but being able to effectively do that means that you have to have the camera set up so that you can actually use the controls to your advantage. If you want to directly control every single aspect, this will be difficult to do as you surmised, but if you let the camera find and focus on the faces/eyes and set ISO for the best skin tones then finesse that up and down and have the physical controls set to intuitively do that, it very quickly turns into a fluid shooting machine with a very high hit rate.
Alternatively, if you prefer not to give that control up, you can just set your ISO 1 to 2 stops higher than what you'd normally shoot for a given light level to give yourself more shutter speed buffer. The R6 is basically a mirrorless 1DXIII (minus the 1DX video features) and has industry leading high ISO performance, so while the mantra usually is "shoot as low of an ISO as possible", the with the R6, you can really crank it up way higher than you'd think.
Thanks for watching!
I think 5D Mark II do not have that setting but it is another way around, I will try to shoot on shutter speed priority of 250 or above. But after all I see in your video, I understand I need to feel comfortable shooting in MANUAL !!! controlling everything as I should do :) Thanks!!
what's the brand of the clear filter you have in your lens?
auto-iso is great for shooting video for events, but you have to limit it or the camera will go to extremely high numbers in low light situations.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for keeping it real Katelyn. I love the fact that you are willing to point out flaws (so that the manufacturers can work on issues) and not just 'hype up' a product. Oh, I also noted that your grass looks magnificent now (I know that you had some issues of patchiness a while back)...let's just call that a Photographer's eye..haha :)
Haha thanks!!
Thank si much for this great advise! i was just thinking about paying attention but i deeply appreciate your suggestion of shooting at higher iso
Use the R6 with the 28-70mm lens, set the shutter at 1/250, f2.0, and auto ISO. Shoot in the different lighting situations you would in a wedding and process the images. You will NEVER have a motion blur image. I doubt you will see any noise. Your life will be so much easier. Trust the camera, or buy the R5.
Thanks for watching!
@@KatelynJames I rewatched the video and noticed you don't seem to like auto ISO with spot metering. If you just meter only on your subject and use exposure compensation without recomposing, I think your "fear of lack of control" will abate.
It doesn't seem like you're afraid of giving up focus control to the camera. Let go of manual shutter adjustment and switch to manual ex. comp. Be happy.
If you set minimum shutter speed to 250, you'll STILL need to manually adjust ISO to get the correct exposure. Trust this fabulous auto ISO technology in this camera the way you trust auto-focusing.
Again, learn to stay on your subject while adjusting ex. comp.
Oh, and why not display the small histogram in the viewfinder so you'll know when you are in zone 4 or 5
Sorry, I just couldn't help myself trying to help you NOT need to be an "over-shooter."
And congrats on the new coming baby.
Hello, I hope you are well. I am not an expert but I can recommend you to continue in manual and use the eye tracking that the camera has to frame your photo, you do not need to reframe, just use eye tracking and so you only worry about framing your photo as you want. Greetings.
Thanks for watching!
@@KatelynJames Hi how are you? I received a notification that I was the winner of a prize, this is true. Please your help, thank you.
If I'm on a tripod (and stable) I set the ISO. If I'm hand held and moving around, I set the ISO to Auto. Aperture and shutter speed I set. Works for me. Like your videos.
Insteaf of focus and recompose, couldnt' you just enable eye tracking and it would just grab her eye?
Great idea!
1:50 If you’re just shooting one person why not use Eye AF with tracking? Is that a recorder issue?
Thanks for watching!
I was in a similar boat of being anti-auto anything. However, I've found that the R6's auto ISO is pretty decent in about 65-75% of situations. By keeping my dial available to override when it does get it wrong, I find I can use auto ISO in quite a lot of fast moving situations, or where the lighting is changing subtly and I don't want to keep manually hopping back and forth. For example, when shooting toasts at weddings where the head table might be slightly better lit than the person with the mic. When moving back and forth from one subject to the other, auto ISO does a pretty decent job of keeping up.
Having said that, given that this video began with a discussion about motion blur, I will never understand why photographers will hamstring their steadiness by holding the camera away from their bodies. Yes, the live view function is great and all and immensely useful for some situations, but utilizing the viewfinder will always create much more stable shooting, even with modern image stabilization.
Thanks for watching!
In reality, you should be using flash, so as not to burn out the background (which looks cheap and amateurish). However, there is one other option noone ever seems to talk about, turning on HDR PQ. If you shoot raw+JPEG you get HDR raw files plus HEIF files. If you just shoot raw you get HDR raw files. The dynamic range is amazing and let's you capture the bright sky and your subject, when the sun is behind your subject.
This is not the same as normal HDR shots where the camera takes multiple shots. The camera only takes one shot and applies a very flat codec to it.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I'm a bit of a newby at this--what is the piece of equipment on the top of your camera ?
It is an atmos ninja 5. It is just used here for educational purposes to show and record my screen.
Are you just using the 24-70 F2 and the 85mm? A majority of the time.
Yes!
What you call under exposed in auto ISO actually looks good. What you call proper exposure seems over to me. That is where the "light and airy" style wobbles from a technical standpoint.
I use iso auto 15 years and never have issues like you have. You have to set up camera right way, (min and max iso auto, etc).
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Loved this video, Kate. Thank you!
Thanks so much!
Your problem seems to me to have a lot to do with the exposure metering modes. Modern cameras produce a sensitive effect that affects the photometer reading.
I also noticed that you tend to focus and then recompose, which seems unnecessary since you can use face detection and compose without worrying about the autofocus, as the system keeps the person's face detectable, this prevents that when there is recomposition the exposure changes suddenly
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@@KatelynJames this is true??
I cannot shoot auto anything. I barely like my car being an automatic haha That auto iso made me want to break my own camera. lol
haha love that!
Interesting choice. I wonder if Apature priority would work better. Auto ISO on many cameras is just not there yet in all honesty.
Thanks for sharing!
my R6 experience... purchased my R6 last year.. had it less than 3 weeks.. it would not AutoFocus.. called Canon .. they said to send it in for repair.. not happening repairing a brand new camera so I returned it for a refund.. left me with bad vibes about the R6.. I'm sure it is a great camera .. guess I just had a bad copy... waiting for the R7 to show up hopefully being announced in a few days or so the rumors go.. to upgrade from my 6dMkII.. great videos... thanx :)
That’s so sad!
I love the fact I can use auto iso on my R6 and still deliberately over-or underexpose my pictures. I didn't like auto settings either in the past. It's best to limit the auto iso to 6400 or something.
If someone recommends aperture priority with auto ISO, make sure you go into Settings and set a minimum shutter speed! Aperture priority gives you control of the aperture and the camera takes care of the shutter speed and ISO (because you set auto ISO), so you've really lost a lot of control. The camera could choose a lower than desired shutter speed, or a higher than needed shutter speed and hence a higher than needed ISO. With the exposure simulation and histogram, I can't see any reason not to shoot full manual, it's actually the easiest way to expose on a mirrorless camera. The exception being sports or situations where the subject is constantly coming in and out of shade into direct light. It's impossible to manually keep up with exposure changes in those circumstances.
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I am having issues with my EOS R and using Godox flashes. It sometimes switches to AUTO ISO. Most of my wedding ceremonies are on the beach and couple's portraits are against a beautiful sunset. The AUTO ISO makes it impossible to get properly exposed couples in the foreground and a little darker sunset background. AUTO ISO takes away most of the creativity.
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Auto-ISO is supposed to be used without exposure compensation (e.g. relying on your metering setting and the camera)
As a sports photographer I use it a lot, where players may be in shade, or facing sun one moment and away the next, or cloud cover.
Auto anything sometimes requires exposure compensation. What if your subject moves in front of a bright background and you don't want a silhouette? You need to compensate. Otherwise you may just as well shoot "P" for perfect!
@@alansach8437 spot metering will ensure the subject is not a sillouette, hence my mention of the correct metering setting
@@blakeparry1983 Makes sense if your subject is middle gray, but if you are spotting on a black bear and relying 100% on the camera meter, the bear will be consistently overexposed. If you are spotting on a polar bear it will be underexposed. One way or another you are compensating, whether you are adjusting from the "recommended " settings in manual mode or you are turning a compensation dial in aperture or shutter priority. In fact, shooting manual is by definition compensating. You are using your judgment and adjusting (compensating) from the meter recommendations to achieve the results you want. Anytime you aren't shooting exactly what the meter says you are compensating. Of course, shooting people in sports may require less compensation that shooting black bears and polar bear, which are extreme examples.
@@alansach8437 yes hence why i said using the correct metering mode for the situation is key to the usage of auto-iso
Thanks for sharing!
What does the guy mean with the shutter as low as you can go? Low speed or short time? Mathematically 1/200 IS a HIGHER number than 1/1600.
Please explain. This is confusing.
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Why didn't you use eye af?
Would've made focusing alot easier
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My first Thought.
You mentioned that you don’t focus and recompose. How do you focus? It’s one thing that I feel I can’t trust my camera to do so am constantly tapping the screen but it’s slow and I miss shots or some are unfocused
I move my focal point!
I think was a long explanation before no much reason….
Set your aperture and then the desired shutter speed, and iso and exposure will be adjusted auto. Simples
If you don’t like that, then keep manual.. simples
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Control Freak..!!!😝.The thing with Auto ISO…Quick changing environments…It generally gets you to where you want to be…It’s not for everyone… But..If your a beginner…It helps eliminate having to do it all…Great video lesson as always…Ty for the education…😎
Great points! Thanks for watching!
Great video..! I completely agree, and relate to you on every point you made.. I've been a "M" shooter since I started shooting weddings, while wearing a tux, back in 1994, lugging around Medium Format cameras. Some old school techniques are just better. Cheers!
If you are on full manual, why do you have to set the shutter speed range?
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I love auto ISO + spot metering but I LOCK it which my star button to highlights or skin tones - I was taught this technique years ago during a hummingbird photography class
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Thanks for the vid, but I feel you're vastly underestimating your camera. I've been shooting SLRs and large format since the mid 80s, so I know what you mean about control and shooting manual, but technology has changed! I feel it's like you're switching zoom lenses treating them as primes because you don't trust the zoom ring... I shot the R5 these days, which is pretty much the same as the R6 in these respects. I invite you to go out one day for fun and shoot Fv. Auto-ISO, and you can jump between auto shutter, auto aperture and both manual, but do hand over as much control to the camera as you can stand. Matrix metering and as little exposure compensation as possible (that last sort of invalidated your test).
The deep learning algorithms on these bodies are amazing! The other thing you'll grow to love very rapidly is eye autofocus! No framing and re-composing. It will speed up and simplify your shoots enormously. When not working like that, use the dominant thumb's half of the back LCD to move the focus point around. It's fast and gratifying. These aren't your millennial cameras anymore. They're very capable of helping you out. You can just supervise and step in when you -- need -- to make an alteration. Have fun! I think you'll be very impressed.
PS
Holding down the set button in Fv resets everything to auto (on the R5 and R6, the trash button on the RP). You can then just select the parameter or parameters you want to control. Works on any creative mode. Oh, and are you on the latest firmware? Makes a diff.
Thanks for sharing!
Why are you shooting in One Shot instead of Servo? Why are you not using the joystick to place the focus point (instead of the touch screen | enabled under C.Fn3)?
Why are you not using head tracking (arguably the biggest strength of the R5/R6)? Change Initial Point for AF Tracking from Auto to either of the options (Page AF5 | Recommend following the other focus points) which gives you back control on where you want it to attach focus (like you were doing here), and then compose. Choose 0 on AF4 -- Switching Tracked Subjects if you need that locked on person to be extra sticky. Eye AF is great, but if you're shooting a group, ehhh.
Lastly (and I don't really get why it's in a different spot) -- ISO Speed Settings on Shoot2 -- Change the Auto Range. You can limit what your ISO can climb to so it won't be wildly different.
I get that you've been using a DLSR for the past X years, but don't be afraid to use the assists of the new. :)
Thanks for the content and walk through!
Thanks for watching!
I am glad i found ur chanell,u explain things so well
for me minimum shutter speed &safety shift in AV mode solve a lot of problems in shows, theater, concerts etc.. and even outside when light conditions are not predictable and severe .. be careful minimum shutter speed is 'global' (R5) and one can not go 'under' unless changing that minium or use C1 or C2 or C3 ist prepared for no shutter speed minimum if things have to be changed fast.. fast changing circumstances always have influence on work flow..
Thanks for sharing!
It's not as spazzy as she makes it out to be. She's like the people who refuse to shoot mirrorless. For most of us using the camera this way cuts down on the amount of post you put into your work.
On the rf glass I use the control ring for exposure compensation. Most of the time it only needs to be 1/3 to 2/3 in either direction.
Regardless, the ISO can/will change from shot to shot which would slow me down while editing. I was using the control ring on my lens for exposure compensation as well! If it works for you, great!
@@KatelynJames In what way does changing ISO slow your editing? Why does changing shutter speed not slow it?
@@broomstreettd when she changes shutter speed she also has to change either iso or aperture to to find her preferred exposure. After doing it one way for so long she knows what looks right to her, and that allows her to set a base line for post processing in batches. Even if she doesn't run batch processing it means she spends less time tweaking after applying a preset, and maybe just rolling with the preset.
We all find our method. I do run in manual w/auto iso. However, I do miss the link between AF point and auto exposure the EOS R has. I too have an R6 and it uses the traditional metering modes. I will most likely try testing the custom function of locking AE after focus lock. Maybe canon will put the AF point to AE link back in another camera.
I think Canon should have the camera making artificial sound of shutter opening and closing. It is a useful feature.
For real!