Hey all, I intended this video to be a broad and simple introduction for those unfamiliar with old tractors. I would love to do some more educational videos delving into more detail on specific topics about old tractors and what to look for to find one that best meets your needs, how different parts of them work, etc. I need feedback in order to know what the best topics would be. What topics would you like covered? Please leave your feedback here!
Something good to cover would be an explanation of the basic differences between row-crop, livestock, and vegetable farming in the US. Might give you a reason to explain why tricycle tractors were so ubiquitous when tractors took over from draft animals.
I would say a good topic for the old tractors would be a video on common sense safety and covering common mistakes folks make that cause accidents on older equipment. Maybe some myth busting and differences between tricycle front ends versus standard front ends
I liked everything you talked about, Pete. Would like to know how you'd look over an older tractor for potential purchase. What systems you look at? What is considered normal wear and tear on a 50 year old tractor? What would be potential deal breakers?
Look at about 10 classified ads and comment on the price ask vs. the real worth of the tractor. Keep it under $3200. I know ask vs. sell is usually different but give us what you would offer and why. 😊 .....no basket cases!
Implements, what they do, don't do. What size might you need. Example: Do you need a 15' batwing for a 5 acre farm or a 6'? Box blade or regular blade, just a few suggestions Keep up the great videos
Just a quick note: To add to what Pete shared in this video, one thing to consider when buying a tractor is the type of attachments and how often you may use them. Working in a rental yard, I work with customers all day who moved to the area, bought a small farm, went and spent 20,000 on a tractor, and even more for implements. But in then end they still give us a call at the rental yard because they didn't purchase the one implement they needed. Often times that is a backhoe attachment. You could easily spent 5-8,000 on a backhoe attachment that you may only use a couple time a year. So in that case, it may not be a good return on your investment especially when you can go to a rental yard and rent a bobcat excavator for a weekend for around $300.00. The other aspect would also be service and maintenance of an piece of equipment. generally attachments will require more maintenance then the tractor. I love my antique tractors and use them when ever possible, but sometimes, especially in the case of needing to dig with a hoe, its just easier and more efficient to go rent a piece of equipment for that intended purpose. I full heartedly aggrege with Pete about using an older tractor for your homestead and this is why: 1.) With an old tractor you will find that there is just certain things about it, such as how much choke it likes to start. 2.) with the simplicity of operation, you will find that others in your family, even younger people will be able to operate it. 3.) You will build a bond with that tractor, learning its limitations and what it can and cannot do. In all its just like adding another member to your family. Be careful though... As I am sure Pete will agree with, you will fall in love with your tractor, and before long, it will have a sibling sitting next to it in the barn!... Thanks Pete!
You have the right idea Pete, around where I am in Ireland I see so many farmers with 30 or 40 cows going and spending 10s of thousands on big 200hp tractors. When really all they need is a few little machines like yours. At the end of the day, your farmalls will still be around in 50 years time when a modern machine isn't.
a 200hp tractor costs like 150k€ but on dairy farming you need at least 100hp to be able to do the work with your own tractor as the machines have gotten to big
Farm born and raised I still have a great affection for the smaller simpler tractors and a desire to get back to the farm! Those tractors are simple to maintain and work on and cheap to purchase. Many now want to start out with a new tractor with a multitude of attachments, problem is you can only use one attachment at the time. I am an advocate of having multiple older tractors with each dedicated to a particular job or two. If one breaks down, just move to another for the time being. Many of us can take a lesson from you on that, you are rebuilding/repairing one of your tractors right now, yet your whole operation did not cease because you took one tractor out of service. Every tractor has a job and every job has a tractor and you have spent probably less than if you had bought a new tractor with multiple attachments. Great videos Pete, I enjoy living vicariously through you till I can get back on the Farm!
A lot of folks trying to start a farm out of pocket literally just can’t afford to double the price of the tractor to get the loader...not arguing their handiness, I wish I had one instead of having to rent one when I need it
@@loganyoutube4818 A Ford 3000 with a loader is like $5000 tops for a ~4-5000 hours. An extremely little robust tractor. The dumbest thing you can do for starting a small farm is spending money.
I think one thing that people like about certain RUclips channels is when it really captures their attention and it's very hard to keep the attention of some people but your channel you go in depth of whatever you do and a lot of people like that whether it's the cows chickens your business the tractors the going of around and telling each part that you take off the tractor people like in depth you're doing a fine job I like farming but I also like auto mechanics say you got me hooked
Love my old 8N. I have a rear scoop, and some other attachments. Even with it’s limitations I love the cheap price tag and the ability to work on it without a computer and software. Great video,
When we started our little hobby farm I looked at a lot of old and older tractors. Virtually every one of them would need work and since we started with raw land and no infrastructure I skipped over that idea. We bought a new Mahindra 30 hp with loader, box blade, shredder and I found some vintage implements to go with it (plow, bedder and post hole digger. Six years later we have cleared land and have all of the infrastructure in place. We built a working hobby farm and though I have beat the snot out of the little Mahindra (Mitsubishi) it has had zero failures other than battery cables. I am not sure I could have made an older tractor do what I have made this little tractor do and have it survive. We paid $265 a month for the tractor and it is paid off now. I still want an older tractor to play with, but for us the new tractor was a very wise investment. Since I have not yet found my old tractor, I get to live vicariously through you Pete. Thank you for this series and all of your videos, it does make a difference to many of us to see your life and benefit from your experience.
You should see what my 1948 super a and 1969 Deere 2510 have gone through with nothing but maintenance parts being replaced on them(and maybe a weld every few years on the snow plow lift arm when someone makes an oopsies at -35 degrees)
@@loganyoutube4818 It should not be a contest, but just for example, I frequently use mine to knock down trees, they don't always topple, the 30' ones need to have the bucket ran into it numerous times at full height before they surrender. Sometimes the stump breaks at ground level and I need a single ripper on the box blade and the 3 point hydraulics to coax them out. I don't recommend abuse, but at times it happens.
you can't tell me that new tractors can survive longer than old ones. you do not wanna know what we have done to our mf 135, for example when felling trees and they do not fall we pull them down with the tractor and 42hp are not alot for doing that so fullgas diff lock and instant driving away than at the hard ones when you press the clutch as it isn't going forward the tree pulls you back like 2m and the tractors does that without getting damged. also it ran into a tree with around 20km/h and it got only a few dells
@@christian9125abd I have a mf 245 and it works perfectly. I also bought mf 3625 new it is in them shop clutch came apart now it has to be split to fix.
Sir, I appreciate you more than I can say. Having been stressed greatly for some months now, over which tractor to buy , with no experience or knowledge about tractors, you are a true God send. You've just put my mind at ease. I still question exactly which make/model but I now understand which size I can use and know I can make this work. Thank you. May God generously bless you and yours. Sincerely, KenKaren from TX flat lands :)
Another item to remember is that you lose about 4% of your tractors horse power for every 1000 ft. you go up in altitude from sea level. (Unless you run a turbo) So at higher altitude you'll need more up to pull those plows. I prefer the diesel over gas engine for tractors. Higher torque...
i would say the biggest factor is which size the buttons of the plough are as we have always a 2 button plough but the first one was fore 15hp the second one for 42hp and the last one for 58hp and the last one is so heavy that the 42hp tractor can just pull it in first gear but it is no good ploughing
Just buy a MF 135. 50hp in a body the size of a 30hp tractor. Simple enough that with a good manual you can fix everything just dont put the hydraulic pump into constant pumping. Expensive but so capable for the size you never will regret it.
Often said that a MF 135 was everything an 8n should have been. Live hydraulics, live powershaft, draft and position control 3PH, multi-range transmission, and power steering.
Pete; I just wanted to write you a note to communicate how much I enjoy your programming. I grew up on a farm in Iowa in the 1950-60s. Much of what you do reminds me of how it was during my youth. Today, the Iowa farm operation is operated my brother and it has grown tremendously as a grain operation. The cows, pigs and chickens and related chores are in the ancient past. Fortunately, I get to go home and be a kid again when I watch your posts. You are appreciated.
At home we had almost every brand you mentioned on your list other than Allis Chalmers. My Dad ran a truck farm, and aside from the big tractor we had for plowing and discing, which was an Oliver 1655, all our tractors were similar to what you have Pete in horse power range. We used a Super C Farmall for planting....It had a belly mounted 2 row planter. We also had a Super A Farmall which was primarily used for cultivation. We did have one odd balll....A German made Holder, model AG3 articulated tractor that we used for roto tilling, and for pulling our transplanter, because it had really slow creeper gears that worked great for both applications. That tractor had a two cycle Diesel....Noisy little devil, but it put out 34 horse power. Great information Pete, for anyone starting out, even us collectors!! Have a great day Pete!!
Feedback for topics to talk about that tractor newcomers might not know: --How to use a diff lock to get unstuck when you don't have 4 wheel drive --How to use a split brake to turn very sharply --How and when to use wheel weights --How/if to fill tires with calcium chloride --How to combine range and gear selector for optimal speed with an implement --How to properly adjust a three point hitch (top link and side angle of drawbars) --How to safely jack up one side of an offset tractor so it doesn't tip (Farmall Cub, A, etc.)
Onething you should of pointed out is that the older tractors were 6 volt and the newer ones are 12. Incase they want to add lights or a radio to there older tractors they have to vonvert them over to except the 12 volt system. Thanks always enjoy your videos. I also have a 1950 h and a 54 super m Louisville that I have to get up and going to ship them to north dakota where I live at. I inherited them last year from my grandfather and I was the last one to run them 7 years ago
Such a good overview of tractors and their function... I usually have about eight old tractors no particular brand all mixed colors with different implements for each so I don't have to change attachments. I think you covered the subject very well.😊
My friend and I run a hobby hay business and all we use is old equipment. Our tractor fleet consists of a 1950 case so, 1949 AC WD, and a 1985 IMT. For bailing we use a 1950 AC rotobaler. Really neat to watch but very finicky. Our stock is rounded out with a haybine, sideload rake, and standard sickle bar. You can't beat this equipmet for ease of maintenance and repair. The mechanics are truly that; mechanical. No computers, diodes sensora, etc. This is a great advantage since most repairs can be done by someone with modest mechanical knowledge. Plus theyre fun to run. BUT....three are two considerations to remember. 1 they are not going to work at the speed or efficiency of modern equipment. 2 OLD EQUIPMENT CAN BE DANGEROUS! There's a lot off old farmers missing fingers, arms, or legs. Or, worse yet, DEAD. Not much thought was put into things like safety guards. It was assumed back then that people had common sense. Old equipment can be fun and beneficial, but YOU are responsible for your own safety. Thanks fur the video Pete.
One farm near where I grew up used Allis Chalmers equipment in the 60s I liked the small round bales so much easier to work with and feed with than the small square bales.
I really enjoy your videos. I grew up around a number of 1950-1970 green tractors, so I can relate to your bias/preference comments. I really like the way you are able to explain/articulate in very clear and simple terms the various things that you convey. You are able to dumb-down things without making the viewer feel dumb. Thanks again and always look forward to your new vids.
My 1976 JD 401C industrial tractor has an unusual, but very serviceable "dual-clutch" PTO. Pressing the clutch pedal half way down disengages the ground drive, and pressing all the way down also then disengages the PTO. Works great for the three-point rotary mower.
That is known as a live PTO, very common on modern tractors. The older ones would get you in trouble because if you needed to stop quick, the momentum of implement would put torque into the transmission and keep the machine moving. The solution is to put a over ride mechanism between the implement and the tractor.
I think personally if I had a small farm and wanted a tractor to start off with I’d just go right some something 50-60hp+, diesel, 1960’s or newer. Nothing wrong with the older smaller stuff they all have their place but it just makes sense to me to start of with something a little more capable, albeit comparatively expensive.
I agree, If you need 50 hp get 65 hp. One day you will need to pull a delivery truck out of a bog or you will borrow an implement from a large farm and not have the power or hydrolics to run it. Like Pete said the old tractors are great for wagons and simple tillage, but a versitile and reliable tractor with a loader and live PTO is the greatest time saver when you are trying to get farm jobs done on weekends
@@davidrobertson376 would be nice if all people would see that like you but here we get to say that we need a bigger tractor also when the current one ( Steyr 8070) runs all our stuff pretty well but it has only 58hp and people look at us strange when pulling a wagon which weights 10 tons
Today they are making small round balers ,mowers ect. I have a 2538 Mahindra and love it . So many attachments other than farm attachments ,backhoe, post hole diggers , ect. All kinds of attachments for the loader to. The possibilities are almost endless 😂
I remember being in grade school in 1963/‘64 or thereabouts when tragic news came that one of the older boys, aged 15 had been tragically killed on the farm, trying to pull a large stone out of the ground. He had been on a side-hill using a tractor just like the Farmall 1940 you showed. He did a lot of things wrong of course and his youthful age was of no help or caution to him. He chained the rock up to the drawbar then gave the throttle everything it had. The rock didn’t budge, but the tractor flipped backwards over him then rolled, killing him. I hope you might make a video about the ‘do’s and don’ts’ for different kinds of tractors. I fear that many kids never get the kind of careful training and 1:1 instruction they really need. A future video on tractor safety would be very much appreciated by me and who knows? It might just save somebody from needless injury, even death!
I would add something, and keep in mind I am in know nothing city boy and came out to live on an acreage. I would add that a lot of the people that this would this video would pertain to, are probably hobby farm/acreage people. If you purchase your hay from outside and you have cows, you probably are going to purchase large round bales. In which case you need a large tractor or medium size that they would scale today.. I have a John Deere 4020 with a bucket and grappler. It works absolutely great for feeding the cows large round bales and does a pretty good job at removing snow. If you don’t need a large tractor, I would suggest keeping it smaller. For example if you feed small square bales to your animals.
I have a 1200 acre farm and I still by the old stuff because to me it's cheaper and more reliable than the new stuff. My ''newest'' tractor is a 1983 Massey Ferguson 4840 and everything I own will be 1990 or older. My oldest is a 1939 John Deere G mostly for show now as we've restored it. We have two 1952 Massy Harris 44 specials we use to a lot of the pull work with New Idea loaders. Hydraulics are slow but we've lifted 2000 lbs with it. Weakness is the rear PTO...it's a little high and puts more wear on equipment U joints. Gotta love the old stuff I can repair on my own and parts are cheaper. Only advantages new stuff has is it's more comfortable and have features that make things a bit easier. That's it. All the old stuff can be modified to handle the quick attach equipment. Great info here! Thanks a bunch for the video, would love to see more videos like this as I'm always looking to expand my agriculture knowledge.
All fair dinkum, as our Aussie friends say. I would add, get a tractor a size bigger than you think you need. If you plan on doing a lot of loader work try to find a four wheel drive tractor. A three point hitch is worth spending a little extra.
3 three point hitch is not something which decides how much you spend but it decides if you spend money if it has none, do not buy that tractor it is pretty much useless
I love my old Farmall tractors. My favorites are versions of the Super C with the Fast Hitch. If you get a 3-point adapter you can connect to “most” modern implements. They’re easy to get parts for, easy to work on, and are a joy to own. They have live hydraulic power and with an overrunning clutch, are great for rotary mowing. Thanks Pete. I enjoy your videos and your book -Tom
talk about common wear points, common maintenance a person would have to be ready to take on. In my opinion, owning an older small tractor, the DIY factor is most of the fun - but very frustrating when something doesnt work and you dont know how to fix it.
I have a restored 706 gas tractor with quick attach hitch and dual hydraulics, as well as a Massey 365 with a perkins 4 cylinder diesel and nice farmhand loader operated by a pto hydraulic pump; couldn't be happier with what they do for the 'agricultural archeology' project. They're a fraction of the cost of electronically infested newer tractors and are great for learning. Four wheel drive is on the list, someday...
My grandfather started out farming with a M and C. He now owns the M & C as well as a 656 gas version a 230 with a fast hitch, and an old Massy Ferguson 85 gas. He has a 450 also that hasn't run since I was born in 84. He has had many others in between, but he is 83 now and I don't think he will ever get rid of the red and white ones.
Hi Pete. I watch your videos regularly from the Charente region of South West France . I moved to France four years ago from the UK when I retired after spending my working life as a John Deere Engineer, (Nine years ) and then a Motor Engineer until my retirement. Recently I have bought and renovated a 1954 Massey Harris Pony 812 petrol (Gas) 😁😂which is French built. Watching you working on the old tractors inspired me to dust off my old tools and return to my roots as an Agricultural Engineer. Please keep up the fantastic informative work.
I have an old square baler very similar to yours. I know you have done an over view video of that baler but could you possibly do a video on timing the baler going through timing the knotter and needles and every aspect. I am new to timing a square baler and mine is way out of time. Thanks for the videos.
Square baler timing is better left to professionals if you’re not very mechanical. However if you have the manual and can read and understand it, you may be able to getterdone. Also there are some RUclips vids. ALWAYS ROLL IG OVER BY HAND TO TEST BEFORE HOOKING UP TO TRACTOR!!!
I have a small place, 25 acres, and use a modern Orange tractor for most of my work. I just bought a John Deere 40 for cheap (not running) and am in the process of restoration. It has a 3 pt hitch so it will be used for some work around the place as well as providing a bit of nostalgia. I really enjoy your videos showing your restoration work, they provide inspiration as well as useful hints. Thanks
Farm Tractor 101? Ford, Farmall and such are your best bets. John Deere, White, Oliver, Massey Ferguson, so on and so forth too. I am partial to Ford and Farmall because they are such great tractors we have!
I have a 1952 Ford 8N tractor it works good for what I use it for. Brush beating, plow the garden each year with a two button plow ,blade the driveway. There easy to work on it’s a really good little tractor for that kind of stuff.
Great video Pete! My Dad with my Grandpa bought a 1940 H in 1970 and we have been using it ever since. For many years it was our only tractor. My Dad and Grandpa have long since passed away, fortunately the old tractor stayed in the family, my brother and I have acquired newer John Deeres, Fords and Farmalls but he and I always favor jumping back on the H when ever we can. No other tractor that we have works so well in the woods skidding logs out in the mud and snow. It's so reliable, stable, maneuverable, great visibility, perfectly geared and just the right amount of power. My Dad put new rubber on it in 1971 and this year we finally replaced the tires when one finally blew its brine out. Ditto on liking Red tractors because that is what you grew up with! Regarding future topics, our 1940 H has a small gasoline tank, big distillate (I think) tank and a shutter mechanism with part of that removed now. It would be interesting to know how that system once worked and what happened to distillate fuel and when did farmers stop using it?
Many of those old International, Massey Ferguson, and Ford tractors will last for decades if you maintain them. When I was growing up in Upstate NY in the 60's and 70's there were many Farmall's that were still running just fine. The smaller Farmall Cubs were very popular for pulling trailers and mowing the orchards. I remember driving the Cubs when I was just 10 years old. I was too small to reach the pedals and while I was sitting. I had to stand up to hit the brake and the clutch but because of the offset seat and steering it was easy to do. One of the big problems today with modern tractors is not just the cost of purchasing them BUT the cost of maintaining them. Like today's cars many modern tractors have complex proprietary computer systems that are not designed to be serviced by the owner. There is a big legal issue that has been named 'right to repair' that the government is dealing with today. The problem is that if you try to repair your own tractor or other farm equipment it will void the manufacturer's warranty. Having to rely on dealers and service techs to repair farm equipment is adding a huge expense to farming.
I ran my small horse farm with two John Deere 40S and I still use them, but last year purchased a John Deere 2150 and to say I love this tractor is an understatement. The diesel engine and power steering is the best. Luck for me, the previous owner painted it so all I have to do is keep it up. It's a 1985 and it looks brand new with new tires all around.
be sure to check the tires carefully (high dollar item) and be sure that it runs in all gears (also high dollar, and more of a pain to fix). Good brakes are a plus, but not many tractors I've used have had very good brakes on them. Dad taught me to keep it geared down in case I needed to stop. also check ALL fluids (coolant, engine oil, gear boxes) and make sure they are the right color and consistency. a lot of older ones sit out and accumulate water in the wrong places.
My husband and I love watching your videos! You have a voice that is so easy to understand and it amazes me how much knowledge you have about tractors! I would not call myself a tractor person but you make me want to know all about it!!! Really looking forward to you getting the engine back from the machine shop and continuing that tractor redo! Thanks!!!
Really enjoy your channel content and occasional humor. I turn 70 this month and offer my perspective: this past week I sold my two tractors preparing for my first new one, to be delivered later this week. I sold my 8N (1951) and Ford 3000 with loader (1965). Although they differed considerably each ran very well and served my needs. They each held sedimental value as my dad farmed with similar models plus three Minneapolis Molines (ZB, 445 & M5 models). I think you could spend hours talking about how Henry Ford and Mr Ferguson developed the 3 pt hitch and how those early tractor revolutionized small farming. In closing very good entry discussion on tractors.
Finally got an international 350U for my 10 acres !!! Live Independent PTO, front mounted pump for the front end loader, spare rear remote hyd. Fast hitch/three point kit. It was this or a ford 5000 with no loader but in better shape, but i grew up on farmall and international so it was a nobrainer. I wouldn't trade this for any of the new tractors in its horsepower range costing 10 times the price. I paid (3500.00) Thanks for your content! Im looking for one of your videos for timing adjustment.
Great content. I'm currently trying to find a tractor as I watch this. It can be overwhelming. Age, price, brands, etc. Please keep this type of content coming. Who doesn't like Tractors?
Topics....? I like the idea of you talking about each tractor and what it's specific jobs are. Each of your tractors may not be capable of doing multiple things but each is capable of doing one well, what does it do well? How much more convenient is it to have multiple tractors that do singular jobs versus one tractor that you have to change implements on maybe multiple times a week? What is the cost of ownership versus say a new tractor? I am in your corner on this Pete, I think people have forgotten that these tractors made a living for many folks before the advent of some of the more modern and technologically advance farm equipment we have today. Thanks again for the videos!
With purchasing raw wooded land, and developing a homestead, I need a tractor that can pull fell timber, box blade for road work, a bush hog for mowing, a tiller for the garden. up front, a loader for gravel and soil, forks for palleted material and supplies.
Your delivery of information to many of us who left the farm is refreshing to memories which remain from our youth.Still have fond feelings for old tractors,do own 1983 Ford model 1910 tractor diesel,will keep forever.Love your channel.
You have a great personality and I really enjoy your introduction on tractors I’m interested in gardening pulling plow disc an tiller in optional I’m not safe at walking behind a rear tine tiller big feet lol I bought a project Sears suburban that probably should have went on to scrap pile but thought of restoring it back but all an all now I am thinking bigger
We run propane tractors M Super M ,706 LP along with 70 John Deere, 4020 LP because propane was cheap and abundant in West Texas. Not so cheap anymore but the M and Super M I have are fuel efficient. I have a 602 Moline LP a 60hp tractor it is really good on fuel. I bought a 76 Case 1175 diesel 127 hp powerful and very fuel efficient for its size. I like you favor International Harvester. If it's not red leave it in the shed. I really enjoy your videos sharing the farm. I can relate having a small farm myself. Keep up the good work.
My late father willed me a 62ish Mccormick international farmall 340. He plowed snow with about twice. It hadn't ran in at least 6 years when I took it home and my mom didn't think it would run. All I did was clean the bowl and filter and it started right up within 24 hours of having it home. I don't have a real use for it but I'm finding stuff for it to do every day. I have 5 acres so it will get used. I already pulled the neighbors ford out of a Pete bog. Still learning on it as I'm 43 and it's my first tractor. Nice video. Thanks. If you have any pointers on it I would love to hear them. I'm in lower Michigan just fyi.
Love the video I have a 1950 John Deere B and my grand father has a 1954 allis chalmers b but was upgraded to a Farmall H both the John Deere and Farmall have a three point hitch haven’t been able to look up the serial number on the h yet but I plan on doing it oh and by the way me and my dad are watching the Farmall MD build and find it very interesting
I know that when I was looking for a tractor I had to find one that came with some equipment. That is how i found the John deere 1010ru I have. It came with a plow, disc, cultivator, and old sickle mower. Unfortunately I have been discovering certain parts for my tractor are not available not even in aftermarket because it wasn't a popular model. It's so bad that I can't even find a simple metal fuel line. John deere doesn't make it anymore and no one makes an aftermarket. Hope and pray I can figure something out. Otherwise I may need to find another tractor since some parts are no longer available.
I think you might be able to take the old line to a parts store like NAPA and get a copper line and fittings to fit it. The 1010 RU model has the same engine and transmission as thousands of other 1010 models. Don't give up to soon. Good luck.
You are absolutely right about buying what you can get good service and parts for. I use John Deere almost exclusively for my farming operation of 4,000 acres. Not because I think it is superior equipment, but because there are two top-notch dealers close by, and time is money! There is also a CaseIH dealer about 70 miles away, but it has a poor reputation for service. I do have an old 15-30, Farmall A, Super M, W9, and a 504 International, but those are just my "play" tractors and I don't depend on them for any serious work anymore.
i have 2 old tractors both are 1949, one is a ford 8n, and the other one is a john deere model a, i dont have a farm, but i do have a large lot with my home on it, i use the 8n to plow my driveway, and use both to just drive around the block once in a while to get the thumbs up from people...lol
You did that/this so well, Good simple and clear a real boon fot the starter farmer who has never had any real agricultural connection. Agriculture/Farming is not rocket science it is a craft,but science and engineering have made it easier for the most part but not always for the best. Brill goodman! son of the soil among other skills,Well done again
Im 17 and we right now own 70 acres and my dad doesnt farm and my dream is to farm full time so when i was 16 i bought myself my first 1952 allis chalmers wd tractor and plan on buying one with a front end loader and all my other equipment this year from working on 5 or so farms to get the money. I definetely could not afford new equipment! Plus the old is cooler to me anyways!
I just watched an ad where Sir Richard Branson invites me, the viewer, onto a galactic voyage with him and the crew of Virgin Galactic. No thank you Sir Branson I say, I would rather learn about old tractors and getting things done so kindly let me watch this important video and be on your way my good Sir!
You may want to discuss front ends. For example, the advantages and disadvantages of wide front, narrow front, and single wheel "tricycle". It's important to know about manuvering and stability when you climb on an old tractor.
YOU ARE THE MAN PETE! Love this farm -- love your videos! it is my dream! But I may have to move to New York state in order to get a farm since NH is becoming the land of the millionaire farm.
Another thing to think about is how easy it is to find implements for the tractors because some tractors it best to use the implement that was built for the tractor
Hey Pete, Good topic. I personally Have been looking for a 70 to 80hp 2000 to 2008. Still strong for the future and no regeneration. But have found those year mod are as expensive as a new 2020 mod. Ill just keep looking, But I am a little surprised at a lot of comments of new tractors but no comments on the regeneration aspect of the tractor. No one I know will buy a new tractor for that reason alone. Nar do I understand why 20 to 80hp farm tractors need regeneration anti-pollution. for something that is used around 100 hour a year.
I enjoy you and the way you work on your farm. Most around me other then us use the side by side (polaris ranger) approach. I prefer the tractor , it's practical. And it was the way I was raised. The tractor is a very versatile and heavy enough to do the job well. Not made of plastic.
Pete, I understand having a tight budget. My uncle and my dad both built tractors over the years. My uncle built several over them, including one with a FEL. My dad's first tractor was 2-1/2 horsepower, and was slow, but it worked. The last one was built with Toyota and Nissan parts. And was a tricycle type.
Great channel. I grew up on a farm but I’m stationed in japan so I can get home sick sometimes. Watching these videos makes me feel at home. Thanks for the work that you put into them ❤️❤️. ありがとう😊
Great advice on tractors. My #1 criteria for a tractor is a front end loader. I've had lots of tractors, all with front end loaders. I've known a lot of people who bought a first tractor without a loader and before long they would get rid of it and get one with a loader. Of course if you have several tractors you don't necessarily have to have loaders on all of them.
Hi Pete, i really enjoy your video’s. You inspire me to do what I love and not aim for things I don’t like although they may pay better or are less dangerous. Stay safe. Greets from the Netherlands
I'd LOVE to see more videos on equipment, especially tractors! I know general info, but with your experience running and repairing equipment I'd enjoy and appreciate hearing your thoughts! Thanks for the videos!!
Great video and I think you are correct on your advice on gas vs diesel on an old tractor. I too grew up with Red Tractors so I am partial to them. I have an H and Super M that both need restoring but I also have a 1466 of my own and 806 that my nephew owns that we run. We don't make a living from our acreage but we do maintain it and plant for wildlife. I also have a late 70s Ford 2600 Diesel that hates any temp below 85 (don't even try below 50 degrees). In the late fall, winter, and early spring I often wish it was gas. Again, from the deep south we love the videos!
Great video Pete. You are an excellent source of information for the people interested this subject. I have been a member of our local antique equipment club for many years. Our annual three day show, plow days and four classic tractor pulls always attracts a lot of people with little understanding of tractor use and operation. It is very important to us to be open to many questions and if we don't know an answer to connect them to someone who does. There is a world of knowledge within our membership and as members we learn more by teaching the public. We are an educational source that is needed in a very important industry. Like many people who were brought up in my era I have operated many of the tractors that you use on a daily basis plus many more. I now own two John Deere tractors from the fifties. How wonderful that you share your experiences with the public and your family.
I wish I could remember the brands of tractors we ;had on the ranch. I know the Ford (N??) back in the '50's was 'fun' for us youngsters. We learned to drive on it and in the '40's Ford pickup (only had springs on the seat and a blanket as a seat cover, lol). Driving was easy because we only had two-tracks out in the pastures so we couldn't do much damage. The other two are a foggy memory except for the huge (to a wee bairn) one that had two pinched in front wheels and HUGE rear tires. That one toppled over out in one of the fields when my grandpa was plowing and he had to dive for his life. Grandma had to restrain him from taking his rifle and shooting the fool thing! I think it was originally red? Thanks again for the memories.
Thinking back on that "huge" tractor, it might have been a Massey-Ferguson. . . .I seem to remember my brother saying unkind things about it when he got back from a summer working for my uncle on the ranch.
@@JustaFewAcresFarm show where magneto is and tell us what the mag does; then do same for carburetor, exhaust manifold, the engine block etc. It would be like a visual tour of the engine components with a brief explanation of what each part does to make the tractor run. Thanks so much for considering.
really enjoyed this video. personally even for small farm in my opinion a loader is essential. just makes things so much handier and saves on your back.
Here's my story that may help you share info in future videos regarding loaders, Pete. This may be too niche depending on the needs of the farm for loader work -- I have had a 1976 JD 401C diesel industrial tractor with loader for 15 years. My main point is that I often find myself taking pleasure in the loader size and lift capacity, saying to myself I'm glad I didn't get a compact tractor. I lift dirt, wood from downed trees, rocks, etc., and think about how many more trips it would have been with a smaller loader. The bucket is 80 inches wide, and lift is 3,500 lbs. About 60 hp diesel which starts fine, and in coldest temps 30 minutes with the coolant heater on snaps it right off.
I love the detailed videos you put out, the more specific you get the more enjoyable the videos. You are very knowledgeable and I enjoy learning from you
OLd Ford tractors are popular in NC. You can find an 8N for $2200 or less and a 600 series for $3200. I have a 600, 8N, Farmall Cub and a new Kubota L3901 with a loader.
Im all blue.....I love Ford/New Holland. I have a real love for Oliver though as well cuz thats what my grandpa used and its what I knew and the first real tractor i ever used was a 1650 Oliver
Excellent video Pete :) was Cockshutt &now called Whites have your area plus yes been lots changes for sure in tractor company to lots! How many acres or hectares you have your small farm one home farm I grew up was 450 when grandparents bought in 1918 year and my late dad & uncle the 2 boys in family bought 1957 had 320 then by time sold it was 210 acres only left in 1997 ! Plus my dad also uncle had 3 other farm they rent from 1960 to 1996 years only did beef from 1974 to 1997 years!
Hey all, I intended this video to be a broad and simple introduction for those unfamiliar with old tractors. I would love to do some more educational videos delving into more detail on specific topics about old tractors and what to look for to find one that best meets your needs, how different parts of them work, etc. I need feedback in order to know what the best topics would be. What topics would you like covered? Please leave your feedback here!
Something good to cover would be an explanation of the basic differences between row-crop, livestock, and vegetable farming in the US. Might give you a reason to explain why tricycle tractors were so ubiquitous when tractors took over from draft animals.
I would say a good topic for the old tractors would be a video on common sense safety and covering common mistakes folks make that cause accidents on older equipment. Maybe some myth busting and differences between tricycle front ends versus standard front ends
I liked everything you talked about, Pete. Would like to know how you'd look over an older tractor for potential purchase. What systems you look at? What is considered normal wear and tear on a 50 year old tractor? What would be potential deal breakers?
Look at about 10 classified ads and comment on the price ask vs. the real worth of the tractor. Keep it under $3200. I know ask vs. sell is usually different but give us what you would offer and why. 😊 .....no basket cases!
Implements, what they do, don't do. What size might you need. Example: Do you need a 15' batwing for a 5 acre farm or a 6'? Box blade or regular blade, just a few suggestions Keep up the great videos
You're a good person Pete. This country could use more people like you.
Just a quick note: To add to what Pete shared in this video, one thing to consider when buying a tractor is the type of attachments and how often you may use them. Working in a rental yard, I work with customers all day who moved to the area, bought a small farm, went and spent 20,000 on a tractor, and even more for implements. But in then end they still give us a call at the rental yard because they didn't purchase the one implement they needed. Often times that is a backhoe attachment. You could easily spent 5-8,000 on a backhoe attachment that you may only use a couple time a year. So in that case, it may not be a good return on your investment especially when you can go to a rental yard and rent a bobcat excavator for a weekend for around $300.00. The other aspect would also be service and maintenance of an piece of equipment. generally attachments will require more maintenance then the tractor. I love my antique tractors and use them when ever possible, but sometimes, especially in the case of needing to dig with a hoe, its just easier and more efficient to go rent a piece of equipment for that intended purpose. I full heartedly aggrege with Pete about using an older tractor for your homestead and this is why: 1.) With an old tractor you will find that there is just certain things about it, such as how much choke it likes to start. 2.) with the simplicity of operation, you will find that others in your family, even younger people will be able to operate it. 3.) You will build a bond with that tractor, learning its limitations and what it can and cannot do. In all its just like adding another member to your family. Be careful though... As I am sure Pete will agree with, you will fall in love with your tractor, and before long, it will have a sibling sitting next to it in the barn!... Thanks Pete!
Ty kindly!
Great advice.
You have the right idea Pete, around where I am in Ireland I see so many farmers with 30 or 40 cows going and spending 10s of thousands on big 200hp tractors. When really all they need is a few little machines like yours. At the end of the day, your farmalls will still be around in 50 years time when a modern machine isn't.
a 200hp tractor costs like 150k€ but on dairy farming you need at least 100hp to be able to do the work with your own tractor as the machines have gotten to big
Farm born and raised I still have a great affection for the smaller simpler tractors and a desire to get back to the farm! Those tractors are simple to maintain and work on and cheap to purchase. Many now want to start out with a new tractor with a multitude of attachments, problem is you can only use one attachment at the time. I am an advocate of having multiple older tractors with each dedicated to a particular job or two. If one breaks down, just move to another for the time being. Many of us can take a lesson from you on that, you are rebuilding/repairing one of your tractors right now, yet your whole operation did not cease because you took one tractor out of service. Every tractor has a job and every job has a tractor and you have spent probably less than if you had bought a new tractor with multiple attachments. Great videos Pete, I enjoy living vicariously through you till I can get back on the Farm!
I would recommend a tractor with a front end loader...their handier than a shirt pocket, i don't know how i ever got along without one lol
You never know how handy a loader is until you buy one. Then you can't be without it
A lot of folks trying to start a farm out of pocket literally just can’t afford to double the price of the tractor to get the loader...not arguing their handiness, I wish I had one instead of having to rent one when I need it
@@loganyoutube4818 A Ford 3000 with a loader is like $5000 tops for a ~4-5000 hours. An extremely little robust tractor. The dumbest thing you can do for starting a small farm is spending money.
And once you get a skid loader the loader comes off the tractor and gets sold.
I think one thing that people like about certain RUclips channels is when it really captures their attention and it's very hard to keep the attention of some people but your channel you go in depth of whatever you do and a lot of people like that whether it's the cows chickens your business the tractors the going of around and telling each part that you take off the tractor people like in depth you're doing a fine job I like farming but I also like auto mechanics say you got me hooked
Thank you Doug! Keeping people's attention seems particularly hard these days, so I try to keep the videos moving along.
Love my old 8N. I have a rear scoop, and some other attachments. Even with it’s limitations I love the cheap price tag and the ability to work on it without a computer and software. Great video,
Ford 8n just above a horse
When we started our little hobby farm I looked at a lot of old and older tractors. Virtually every one of them would need work and since we started with raw land and no infrastructure I skipped over that idea. We bought a new Mahindra 30 hp with loader, box blade, shredder and I found some vintage implements to go with it (plow, bedder and post hole digger. Six years later we have cleared land and have all of the infrastructure in place. We built a working hobby farm and though I have beat the snot out of the little Mahindra (Mitsubishi) it has had zero failures other than battery cables. I am not sure I could have made an older tractor do what I have made this little tractor do and have it survive. We paid $265 a month for the tractor and it is paid off now.
I still want an older tractor to play with, but for us the new tractor was a very wise investment. Since I have not yet found my old tractor, I get to live vicariously through you Pete. Thank you for this series and all of your videos, it does make a difference to many of us to see your life and benefit from your experience.
You should see what my 1948 super a and 1969 Deere 2510 have gone through with nothing but maintenance parts being replaced on them(and maybe a weld every few years on the snow plow lift arm when someone makes an oopsies at -35 degrees)
@@loganyoutube4818 It should not be a contest, but just for example, I frequently use mine to knock down trees, they don't always topple, the 30' ones need to have the bucket ran into it numerous times at full height before they surrender. Sometimes the stump breaks at ground level and I need a single ripper on the box blade and the 3 point hydraulics to coax them out. I don't recommend abuse, but at times it happens.
you can't tell me that new tractors can survive longer than old ones. you do not wanna know what we have done to our mf 135, for example when felling trees and they do not fall we pull them down with the tractor and 42hp are not alot for doing that so fullgas diff lock and instant driving away than at the hard ones when you press the clutch as it isn't going forward the tree pulls you back like 2m and the tractors does that without getting damged. also it ran into a tree with around 20km/h and it got only a few dells
@@christian9125abd I have a mf 245 and it works perfectly. I also bought mf 3625 new it is in them shop clutch came apart now it has to be split to fix.
@@salmonhunter7414 at our 135 the clutch needs also to be switched as the pto part isn't working anymore
it does not disconnect completly
Having used both transmission driven and live PTO, I can say that even for just mowing fields live PTO is SO MUCH EASIER!!
Agreed
Sir, I appreciate you more than I can say. Having been stressed greatly for some months now, over which tractor to buy , with no experience or knowledge about tractors, you are a true God send. You've just put my mind at ease. I still question exactly which make/model but I now understand which size I can use and know I can make this work. Thank you. May God generously bless you and yours. Sincerely, KenKaren from TX flat lands :)
MF35 3 cyclinder. Still my fa all round tractor. I prefer working it than modern tractors.
I have two 35's with 3 cylinder Perkins engines
@@ontariosfinest8971 nice! I've got a Marshall with a Perkins too...nice engine, shame about the tractor tho lol
i have a mf 135 also with perkins 3 cylinder
Another item to remember is that you lose about 4% of your tractors horse power for every 1000 ft. you go up in altitude from sea level. (Unless you run a turbo) So at higher altitude you'll need more up to pull those plows. I prefer the diesel over gas engine for tractors. Higher torque...
i would say the biggest factor is which size the buttons of the plough are as we have always a 2 button plough but the first one was fore 15hp the second one for 42hp and the last one for 58hp and the last one is so heavy that the 42hp tractor can just pull it in first gear but it is no good ploughing
Best 13 minutes of education I had all year. Just explaining what a live PTO is enhanced my knowledge today - thank you Pete!
Just buy a MF 135. 50hp in a body the size of a 30hp tractor. Simple enough that with a good manual you can fix everything just dont put the hydraulic pump into constant pumping. Expensive but so capable for the size you never will regret it.
And they look good too!
Often said that a MF 135 was everything an 8n should have been. Live hydraulics, live powershaft, draft and position control 3PH, multi-range transmission, and power steering.
Pete; I just wanted to write you a note to communicate how much I enjoy your programming. I grew up on a farm in Iowa in the 1950-60s. Much of what you do reminds me of how it was during my youth. Today, the Iowa farm operation is operated my brother and it has grown tremendously as a grain operation. The cows, pigs and chickens and related chores are in the ancient past. Fortunately, I get to go home and be a kid again when I watch your posts. You are appreciated.
At home we had almost every brand you mentioned on your list other than Allis Chalmers. My Dad ran a truck farm, and aside from the big tractor we had for plowing and discing, which was an Oliver 1655, all our tractors were similar to what you have Pete in horse power range. We used a Super C Farmall for planting....It had a belly mounted 2 row planter. We also had a Super A Farmall which was primarily used for cultivation. We did have one odd balll....A German made Holder, model AG3 articulated tractor that we used for roto tilling, and for pulling our transplanter, because it had really slow creeper gears that worked great for both applications. That tractor had a two cycle Diesel....Noisy little devil, but it put out 34 horse power.
Great information Pete, for anyone starting out, even us collectors!! Have a great day Pete!!
Do you still have that ag3?
Feedback for topics to talk about that tractor newcomers might not know:
--How to use a diff lock to get unstuck when you don't have 4 wheel drive
--How to use a split brake to turn very sharply
--How and when to use wheel weights
--How/if to fill tires with calcium chloride
--How to combine range and gear selector for optimal speed with an implement
--How to properly adjust a three point hitch (top link and side angle of drawbars)
--How to safely jack up one side of an offset tractor so it doesn't tip (Farmall Cub, A, etc.)
@@thirzapeevey2395 Ooh! Driving on a hill! I forgot that one!
Onething you should of pointed out is that the older tractors were 6 volt and the newer ones are 12. Incase they want to add lights or a radio to there older tractors they have to vonvert them over to except the 12 volt system. Thanks always enjoy your videos. I also have a 1950 h and a 54 super m Louisville that I have to get up and going to ship them to north dakota where I live at. I inherited them last year from my grandfather and I was the last one to run them 7 years ago
Such a good overview of tractors and their function... I usually have about eight old tractors no particular brand all mixed colors with different implements for each so I don't have to change attachments.
I think you covered the subject very well.😊
My friend and I run a hobby hay business and all we use is old equipment. Our tractor fleet consists of a 1950 case so, 1949 AC WD, and a 1985 IMT. For bailing we use a 1950 AC rotobaler. Really neat to watch but very finicky. Our stock is rounded out with a haybine, sideload rake, and standard sickle bar.
You can't beat this equipmet for ease of maintenance and repair. The mechanics are truly that; mechanical. No computers, diodes sensora, etc. This is a great advantage since most repairs can be done by someone with modest mechanical knowledge. Plus theyre fun to run.
BUT....three are two considerations to remember.
1 they are not going to work at the speed or efficiency of modern equipment.
2 OLD EQUIPMENT CAN BE DANGEROUS!
There's a lot off old farmers missing fingers, arms, or legs. Or, worse yet, DEAD. Not much thought was put into things like safety guards. It was assumed back then that people had common sense.
Old equipment can be fun and beneficial, but YOU are responsible for your own safety.
Thanks fur the video Pete.
One farm near where I grew up used Allis Chalmers equipment in the 60s I liked the small round bales so much easier to work with and feed with than the small square bales.
I really enjoy your videos. I grew up around a number of 1950-1970 green tractors, so I can relate to your bias/preference comments. I really like the way you are able to explain/articulate in very clear and simple terms the various things that you convey. You are able to dumb-down things without making the viewer feel dumb. Thanks again and always look forward to your new vids.
My 1976 JD 401C industrial tractor has an unusual, but very serviceable "dual-clutch" PTO. Pressing the clutch pedal half way down disengages the ground drive, and pressing all the way down also then disengages the PTO. Works great for the three-point rotary mower.
That is known as a live PTO, very common on modern tractors. The older ones would get you in trouble because if you needed to stop quick, the momentum of implement would put torque into the transmission and keep the machine moving. The solution is to put a over ride mechanism between the implement and the tractor.
I think personally if I had a small farm and wanted a tractor to start off with I’d just go right some something 50-60hp+, diesel, 1960’s or newer. Nothing wrong with the older smaller stuff they all have their place but it just makes sense to me to start of with something a little more capable, albeit comparatively expensive.
I agree, If you need 50 hp get 65 hp. One day you will need to pull a delivery truck out of a bog or you will borrow an implement from a large farm and not have the power or hydrolics to run it. Like Pete said the old tractors are great for wagons and simple tillage, but a versitile and reliable tractor with a loader and live PTO is the greatest time saver when you are trying to get farm jobs done on weekends
@@davidrobertson376 would be nice if all people would see that like you but here we get to say that we need a bigger tractor also when the current one ( Steyr 8070) runs all our stuff pretty well but it has only 58hp and people look at us strange when pulling a wagon which weights 10 tons
Today they are making small round balers ,mowers ect. I have a 2538 Mahindra and love it . So many attachments other than farm attachments ,backhoe, post hole diggers , ect. All kinds of attachments for the loader to. The possibilities are almost endless 😂
I remember being in grade school in 1963/‘64 or thereabouts when tragic news came that one of the older boys, aged 15 had been tragically killed on the farm, trying to pull a large stone out of the ground. He had been on a side-hill using a tractor just like the Farmall 1940 you showed. He did a lot of things wrong of course and his youthful age was of no help or caution to him. He chained the rock up to the drawbar then gave the throttle everything it had. The rock didn’t budge, but the tractor flipped backwards over him then rolled, killing him. I hope you might make a video about the ‘do’s and don’ts’ for different kinds of tractors. I fear that many kids never get the kind of careful training and 1:1 instruction they really need. A future video on tractor safety would be very much appreciated by me and who knows? It might just save somebody from needless injury, even death!
Stupid is as stupid does.
@@tacomas9602 True, but if Stupid had been properly trained and supervised then a needless tragedy could have been avoided.
I would add something, and keep in mind I am in know nothing city boy and came out to live on an acreage. I would add that a lot of the people that this would this video would pertain to, are probably hobby farm/acreage people. If you purchase your hay from outside and you have cows, you probably are going to purchase large round bales. In which case you need a large tractor or medium size that they would scale today.. I have a John Deere 4020 with a bucket and grappler. It works absolutely great for feeding the cows large round bales and does a pretty good job at removing snow. If you don’t need a large tractor, I would suggest keeping it smaller. For example if you feed small square bales to your animals.
I have a 1200 acre farm and I still by the old stuff because to me it's cheaper and more reliable than the new stuff. My ''newest'' tractor is a 1983 Massey Ferguson 4840 and everything I own will be 1990 or older. My oldest is a 1939 John Deere G mostly for show now as we've restored it. We have two 1952 Massy Harris 44 specials we use to a lot of the pull work with New Idea loaders. Hydraulics are slow but we've lifted 2000 lbs with it. Weakness is the rear PTO...it's a little high and puts more wear on equipment U joints. Gotta love the old stuff I can repair on my own and parts are cheaper. Only advantages new stuff has is it's more comfortable and have features that make things a bit easier. That's it. All the old stuff can be modified to handle the quick attach equipment. Great info here! Thanks a bunch for the video, would love to see more videos like this as I'm always looking to expand my agriculture knowledge.
Just a great explanation of what old tractors are capable of doing for the main things they would be used for.
All fair dinkum, as our Aussie friends say. I would add, get a tractor a size bigger than you think you need. If you plan on doing a lot of loader work try to find a four wheel drive tractor. A three point hitch is worth spending a little extra.
Are you wanting a new tractor if not you should get a ford 4000 we got a 4000 and ford 2000 tractor
3 three point hitch is not something which decides how much you spend but it decides if you spend money if it has none, do not buy that tractor it is pretty much useless
I love my old Farmall tractors. My favorites are versions of the Super C with the Fast Hitch. If you get a 3-point adapter you can connect to “most” modern implements. They’re easy to get parts for, easy to work on, and are a joy to own. They have live hydraulic power and with an overrunning clutch, are great for rotary mowing. Thanks Pete. I enjoy your videos and your book
-Tom
I’ve been watching ur videos for years I can’t believe I missed this one it’s great one of my favourites
talk about common wear points, common maintenance a person would have to be ready to take on. In my opinion, owning an older small tractor, the DIY factor is most of the fun - but very frustrating when something doesnt work and you dont know how to fix it.
I have a restored 706 gas tractor with quick attach hitch and dual hydraulics, as well as a Massey 365 with a perkins 4 cylinder diesel and nice farmhand loader operated by a pto hydraulic pump; couldn't be happier with what they do for the 'agricultural archeology' project. They're a fraction of the cost of electronically infested newer tractors and are great for learning. Four wheel drive is on the list, someday...
My grandfather started out farming with a M and C. He now owns the M & C as well as a 656 gas version a 230 with a fast hitch, and an old Massy Ferguson 85 gas. He has a 450 also that hasn't run since I was born in 84. He has had many others in between, but he is 83 now and I don't think he will ever get rid of the red and white ones.
Hi Pete. I watch your videos regularly from the Charente region of South West France . I moved to France four years ago from the UK when I retired after spending my working life as a John Deere Engineer, (Nine years ) and then a Motor Engineer until my retirement. Recently I have bought and renovated a 1954 Massey Harris Pony 812 petrol (Gas) 😁😂which is French built. Watching you working on the old tractors inspired me to dust off my old tools and return to my roots as an Agricultural Engineer. Please keep up the fantastic informative work.
I have an old square baler very similar to yours. I know you have done an over view video of that baler but could you possibly do a video on timing the baler going through timing the knotter and needles and every aspect. I am new to timing a square baler and mine is way out of time. Thanks for the videos.
Square baler timing is better left to professionals if you’re not very mechanical. However if you have the manual and can read and understand it, you may be able to getterdone. Also there are some RUclips vids. ALWAYS ROLL IG OVER BY HAND TO TEST BEFORE HOOKING UP TO TRACTOR!!!
I have a small place, 25 acres, and use a modern Orange tractor for most of my work. I just bought a John Deere 40 for cheap (not running) and am in the process of restoration. It has a 3 pt hitch so it will be used for some work around the place as well as providing a bit of nostalgia. I really enjoy your videos showing your restoration work, they provide inspiration as well as useful hints. Thanks
I'd like vids on more tractors and application. Anything u post I'll watch b honest. Always full of good knowledge and content
Thanks John!
I can never get enough of watching a hay baler working in the field I feel like I'm accomplishing something.
Farm Tractor 101? Ford, Farmall and such are your best bets. John Deere, White, Oliver, Massey Ferguson, so on and so forth too. I am partial to Ford and Farmall because they are such great tractors we have!
I have a 1952 Ford 8N tractor it works good for what I use it for. Brush beating, plow the garden each year with a two button plow ,blade the driveway. There easy to work on it’s a really good little tractor for that kind of stuff.
Great video Pete! My Dad with my Grandpa bought a 1940 H in 1970 and we have been using it ever since. For many years it was our only tractor. My Dad and Grandpa have long since passed away, fortunately the old tractor stayed in the family, my brother and I have acquired newer John Deeres, Fords and Farmalls but he and I always favor jumping back on the H when ever we can. No other tractor that we have works so well in the woods skidding logs out in the mud and snow. It's so reliable, stable, maneuverable, great visibility, perfectly geared and just the right amount of power. My Dad put new rubber on it in 1971 and this year we finally replaced the tires when one finally blew its brine out. Ditto on liking Red tractors because that is what you grew up with! Regarding future topics, our 1940 H has a small gasoline tank, big distillate (I think) tank and a shutter mechanism with part of that removed now. It would be interesting to know how that system once worked and what happened to distillate fuel and when did farmers stop using it?
Many of those old International, Massey Ferguson, and Ford tractors will last for decades if you maintain them. When I was growing up in Upstate NY in the 60's and 70's there were many Farmall's that were still running just fine. The smaller Farmall Cubs were very popular for pulling trailers and mowing the orchards. I remember driving the Cubs when I was just 10 years old. I was too small to reach the pedals and while I was sitting. I had to stand up to hit the brake and the clutch but because of the offset seat and steering it was easy to do.
One of the big problems today with modern tractors is not just the cost of purchasing them BUT the cost of maintaining them. Like today's cars many modern tractors have complex proprietary computer systems that are not designed to be serviced by the owner. There is a big legal issue that has been named 'right to repair' that the government is dealing with today. The problem is that if you try to repair your own tractor or other farm equipment it will void the manufacturer's warranty. Having to rely on dealers and service techs to repair farm equipment is adding a huge expense to farming.
I ran my small horse farm with two John Deere 40S and I still use them, but last year purchased a John Deere 2150 and to say I love this tractor is an understatement. The diesel engine and power steering is the best. Luck for me, the previous owner painted it so all I have to do is keep it up. It's a 1985 and it looks brand new with new tires all around.
Like to hear about hydraulic system requirements for different implement such as brush hog, tiller ect. thanks really enjoy your videos.
be sure to check the tires carefully (high dollar item) and be sure that it runs in all gears (also high dollar, and more of a pain to fix). Good brakes are a plus, but not many tractors I've used have had very good brakes on them. Dad taught me to keep it geared down in case I needed to stop. also check ALL fluids (coolant, engine oil, gear boxes) and make sure they are the right color and consistency. a lot of older ones sit out and accumulate water in the wrong places.
Thank you for advice, am a small Kenyan farmer and trying to venture into Hay farming but our biggest challenge are the implements!
Much thanks! I have a '49 Farmall M. Workhorse. Love it.
My husband and I love watching your videos! You have a voice that is so easy to understand and it amazes me how much knowledge you have about tractors! I would not call myself a tractor person but you make me want to know all about it!!! Really looking forward to you getting the engine back from the machine shop and continuing that tractor redo! Thanks!!!
Really enjoy your channel content and occasional humor. I turn 70 this month and offer my perspective: this past week I sold my two tractors preparing for my first new one, to be delivered later this week.
I sold my 8N (1951) and Ford 3000 with loader (1965). Although they differed considerably each ran very well and served my needs.
They each held sedimental value as my dad farmed with similar models plus three Minneapolis Molines (ZB, 445 & M5 models).
I think you could spend hours talking about how Henry Ford and Mr Ferguson developed the 3 pt hitch and how those early tractor revolutionized small farming.
In closing very good entry discussion on tractors.
Finally got an international 350U for my 10 acres !!!
Live Independent PTO, front mounted pump for the front end loader, spare rear remote hyd. Fast hitch/three point kit.
It was this or a ford 5000 with no loader but in better shape, but i grew up on farmall and international so it was a nobrainer.
I wouldn't trade this for any of the new tractors in its horsepower range costing 10 times the price.
I paid (3500.00)
Thanks for your content! Im looking for one of your videos for timing adjustment.
Great content. I'm currently trying to find a tractor as I watch this. It can be overwhelming. Age, price, brands, etc. Please keep this type of content coming. Who doesn't like Tractors?
Topics....? I like the idea of you talking about each tractor and what it's specific jobs are. Each of your tractors may not be capable of doing multiple things but each is capable of doing one well, what does it do well? How much more convenient is it to have multiple tractors that do singular jobs versus one tractor that you have to change implements on maybe multiple times a week? What is the cost of ownership versus say a new tractor? I am in your corner on this Pete, I think people have forgotten that these tractors made a living for many folks before the advent of some of the more modern and technologically advance farm equipment we have today. Thanks again for the videos!
With purchasing raw wooded land, and developing a homestead, I need a tractor that can pull fell timber, box blade for road work, a bush hog for mowing, a tiller for the garden. up front, a loader for gravel and soil, forks for palleted material and supplies.
Old but gold👏🏼 that’s what I’ll buy if I save up enough
Your delivery of information to many of us who left the farm is refreshing to memories which remain from our youth.Still have fond feelings for old tractors,do own 1983 Ford model 1910 tractor diesel,will keep forever.Love your channel.
You have a great personality and I really enjoy your introduction on tractors I’m interested in gardening pulling plow disc an tiller in optional I’m not safe at walking behind a rear tine tiller big feet lol I bought a project Sears suburban that probably should have went on to scrap pile but thought of restoring it back but all an all now I am thinking bigger
We run propane tractors M Super M ,706 LP along with 70 John Deere, 4020 LP because propane was cheap and abundant in West Texas. Not so cheap anymore but the M and Super M I have are fuel efficient. I have a 602 Moline LP a 60hp tractor it is really good on fuel. I bought a 76 Case 1175 diesel 127 hp powerful and very fuel efficient for its size. I like you favor International Harvester. If it's not red leave it in the shed. I really enjoy your videos sharing the farm. I can relate having a small farm myself. Keep up the good work.
My late father willed me a 62ish Mccormick international farmall 340. He plowed snow with about twice. It hadn't ran in at least 6 years when I took it home and my mom didn't think it would run. All I did was clean the bowl and filter and it started right up within 24 hours of having it home. I don't have a real use for it but I'm finding stuff for it to do every day. I have 5 acres so it will get used. I already pulled the neighbors ford out of a Pete bog. Still learning on it as I'm 43 and it's my first tractor. Nice video. Thanks. If you have any pointers on it I would love to hear them. I'm in lower Michigan just fyi.
Just an observation, I like the light panels in your pole barn.
I love the show thanks for doing it I like the way u explain everything and your animals have names keep on tracktering ty Jeanette from NYC
Love the video I have a 1950 John Deere B and my grand father has a 1954 allis chalmers b but was upgraded to a Farmall H both the John Deere and Farmall have a three point hitch haven’t been able to look up the serial number on the h yet but I plan on doing it oh and by the way me and my dad are watching the Farmall MD build and find it very interesting
Great video on the subject. Red tractors are the best love my IH 340 utility with a 2000 loader.
I know that when I was looking for a tractor I had to find one that came with some equipment. That is how i found the John deere 1010ru I have. It came with a plow, disc, cultivator, and old sickle mower. Unfortunately I have been discovering certain parts for my tractor are not available not even in aftermarket because it wasn't a popular model. It's so bad that I can't even find a simple metal fuel line. John deere doesn't make it anymore and no one makes an aftermarket. Hope and pray I can figure something out. Otherwise I may need to find another tractor since some parts are no longer available.
I think you might be able to take the old line to a parts store like NAPA and get a copper line and fittings to fit it. The 1010 RU model has the same engine and transmission as thousands of other 1010 models. Don't give up to soon. Good luck.
Sorry. I didn't think that it might be a diesel.
Comprehensive overview of older tractors I love it
You are absolutely right about buying what you can get good service and parts for. I use John Deere almost exclusively for my farming operation of 4,000 acres. Not because I think it is superior equipment, but because there are two top-notch dealers close by, and time is money! There is also a CaseIH dealer about 70 miles away, but it has a poor reputation for service. I do have an old 15-30, Farmall A, Super M, W9, and a 504 International, but those are just my "play" tractors and I don't depend on them for any serious work anymore.
i have 2 old tractors both are 1949, one is a ford 8n, and the other one is a john deere model a, i dont have a farm, but i do have a large lot with my home on it, i use the 8n to plow my driveway, and use both to just drive around the block once in a while to get the thumbs up from people...lol
You did that/this so well, Good simple and clear a real boon fot the starter farmer who has never had any real agricultural connection. Agriculture/Farming is not rocket science it is a craft,but science and engineering have made it easier for the most part but not always for the best. Brill goodman! son of the soil among other skills,Well done again
Im 17 and we right now own 70 acres and my dad doesnt farm and my dream is to farm full time so when i was 16 i bought myself my first 1952 allis chalmers wd tractor and plan on buying one with a front end loader and all my other equipment this year from working on 5 or so farms to get the money. I definetely could not afford new equipment! Plus the old is cooler to me anyways!
I just watched an ad where Sir Richard Branson invites me, the viewer, onto a galactic voyage with him and the crew of Virgin Galactic. No thank you Sir Branson I say, I would rather learn about old tractors and getting things done so kindly let me watch this important video and be on your way my good Sir!
You may want to discuss front ends. For example, the advantages and disadvantages of wide front, narrow front, and single wheel "tricycle". It's important to know about manuvering and stability when you climb on an old tractor.
YOU ARE THE MAN PETE! Love this farm -- love your videos! it is my dream! But I may have to move to New York state in order to get a farm since NH is becoming the land of the millionaire farm.
Another thing to think about is how easy it is to find implements for the tractors because some tractors it best to use the implement that was built for the tractor
Very informative Pete, I just learned a lot. Thank you
Hey Pete, Good topic. I personally Have been looking for a 70 to 80hp 2000 to 2008. Still strong for the future and no regeneration. But have found those year mod are as expensive as a new 2020 mod. Ill just keep looking, But I am a little surprised at a lot of comments of new tractors but no comments on the regeneration aspect of the tractor. No one I know will buy a new tractor for that reason alone. Nar do I understand why 20 to 80hp farm tractors need regeneration anti-pollution. for something that is used around 100 hour a year.
I enjoy you and the way you work on your farm. Most around me other then us use the side by side (polaris ranger) approach. I prefer the tractor , it's practical. And it was the way I was raised. The tractor is a very versatile and heavy enough to do the job well. Not made of plastic.
Pete, I understand having a tight budget. My uncle and my dad both built tractors over the years. My uncle built several over them, including one with a FEL. My dad's first tractor was 2-1/2 horsepower, and was slow, but it worked. The last one was built with Toyota and Nissan parts. And was a tricycle type.
Great channel. I grew up on a farm but I’m stationed in japan so I can get home sick sometimes. Watching these videos makes me feel at home. Thanks for the work that you put into them ❤️❤️. ありがとう😊
Great advice on tractors. My #1 criteria for a tractor is a front end loader. I've had lots of tractors, all with front end loaders. I've known a lot of people who bought a first tractor without a loader and before long they would get rid of it and get one with a loader. Of course if you have several tractors you don't necessarily have to have loaders on all of them.
Thanks for the video. I'd love to see a video all about the 504. Today, I just bought the same one with the IH 2000 loader.
Hi Pete, i really enjoy your video’s. You inspire me to do what I love and not aim for things I don’t like although they may pay better or are less dangerous. Stay safe. Greets from the Netherlands
Make sure you have somewhere to keep a tractor, so many get stolen... Plus, you want to do your maintenance undercover.
Love your channel Peter. Thank you.
I just bought a badboy 1025h first tractor I picked that tractor for it’s size it fits where I need it to go
Love it,
Been on this topic alot with friends and references who want a tractor, and you hit all the nails on the head,
Loving the content!
I'd LOVE to see more videos on equipment, especially tractors! I know general info, but with your experience running and repairing equipment I'd enjoy and appreciate hearing your thoughts! Thanks for the videos!!
Great video and I think you are correct on your advice on gas vs diesel on an old tractor. I too grew up with Red Tractors so I am partial to them. I have an H and Super M that both need restoring but I also have a 1466 of my own and 806 that my nephew owns that we run. We don't make a living from our acreage but we do maintain it and plant for wildlife. I also have a late 70s Ford 2600 Diesel that hates any temp below 85 (don't even try below 50 degrees). In the late fall, winter, and early spring I often wish it was gas. Again, from the deep south we love the videos!
My dad farmed 400 acres with a Farmall M. They will do the job
Great video Pete. You are an excellent source of information for the people interested this subject. I have been a member of our local antique equipment club for many years. Our annual three day show, plow days and four classic tractor pulls always attracts a lot of people with little understanding of tractor use and operation. It is very important to us to be open to many questions and if we don't know an answer to connect them to someone who does. There is a world of knowledge within our membership and as members we learn more by teaching the public. We are an educational source that is needed in a very important industry. Like many people who were brought up in my era I have operated many of the tractors that you use on a daily basis plus many more. I now own two John Deere tractors from the fifties. How wonderful that you share your experiences with the public and your family.
I wish I could remember the brands of tractors we ;had on the ranch. I know the Ford (N??) back in the '50's was 'fun' for us youngsters. We learned to drive on it and in the '40's Ford pickup (only had springs on the seat and a blanket as a seat cover, lol). Driving was easy because we only had two-tracks out in the pastures so we couldn't do much damage. The other two are a foggy memory except for the huge (to a wee bairn) one that had two pinched in front wheels and HUGE rear tires. That one toppled over out in one of the fields when my grandpa was plowing and he had to dive for his life. Grandma had to restrain him from taking his rifle and shooting the fool thing! I think it was originally red? Thanks again for the memories.
Thinking back on that "huge" tractor, it might have been a Massey-Ferguson. . . .I seem to remember my brother saying unkind things about it when he got back from a summer working for my uncle on the ranch.
Thank you, Pete! I would like to know the basics of how a tractor works and where the parts of the tractor are located. Something for beginners. 🇺🇸🚜👍
Hi Tractor Hyatt, can you be a little more specific?
@@JustaFewAcresFarm show where magneto is and tell us what the mag does; then do same for carburetor, exhaust manifold, the engine block etc. It would be like a visual tour of the engine components with a brief explanation of what each part does to make the tractor run. Thanks so much for considering.
really enjoyed this video. personally even for small farm in my opinion a loader is essential. just makes things so much handier and saves on your back.
When we got our first loader I wondered how we lived without one for so long!
Here's my story that may help you share info in future videos regarding loaders, Pete. This may be too niche depending on the needs of the farm for loader work -- I have had a 1976 JD 401C diesel industrial tractor with loader for 15 years. My main point is that I often find myself taking pleasure in the loader size and lift capacity, saying to myself I'm glad I didn't get a compact tractor. I lift dirt, wood from downed trees, rocks, etc., and think about how many more trips it would have been with a smaller loader. The bucket is 80 inches wide, and lift is 3,500 lbs. About 60 hp diesel which starts fine, and in coldest temps 30 minutes with the coolant heater on snaps it right off.
I love the detailed videos you put out, the more specific you get the more enjoyable the videos. You are very knowledgeable and I enjoy learning from you
OLd Ford tractors are popular in NC. You can find an 8N for $2200 or less and a 600 series for $3200. I have a 600, 8N, Farmall Cub and a new Kubota L3901 with a loader.
some tractors also have a tow step clutch so the first step on the clutch is gear and the second step is PTO
Im all blue.....I love Ford/New Holland. I have a real love for Oliver though as well cuz thats what my grandpa used and its what I knew and the first real tractor i ever used was a 1650 Oliver
I have an IH 606 with a loader. It's a great tractor and the perfect size.
Excellent video Pete :) was Cockshutt &now called Whites have your area plus yes been lots changes for sure in tractor company to lots! How many acres or hectares you have your small farm one home farm I grew up was 450 when grandparents bought in 1918 year and my late dad & uncle the 2 boys in family bought 1957 had 320 then by time sold it was 210 acres only left in 1997 ! Plus my dad also uncle had 3 other farm they rent from 1960 to 1996 years only did beef from 1974 to 1997 years!