Real detailed video. Helping me out as I plan on finishing my first engine build and starting to plan on first fire up on an engine stand. Thanks again for posting.
I’ve been planning out a mild build on my 289 including a hotter cam and 4 bbl swap and this video hit every nail on the head for what I wanted to know a cam swap entails, kudos to you on a great diy video
Thanks bud, I’m glad it helped you and was informative. It definitely makes a difference and is fun to see and hear the results when it’s all done. Good luck on your build and hope all goes well. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Nice tutorial video, good job. I replaced my harmonic balancer with a Ford Racing harmonic balancer (28.2 oz) when i did my 351w swap. It's machined for 3 and 4 hole crankshaft pulleys. It had a huge difference how smooth and how the engine reved. Totally worth the exta $$ , if in the budget. I also replaced the harmoic balancer bolt with and ARP one. Thanks for sharing!
That’s great! I definitely plan on buying a new high performance harmonic balancer when I build the 351c I plan on swapping in hopefully soon in the future. I can believe how much a difference it made, those high performance machined parts non comparable to stock parts. Glad you liked the video, and glad it was helpful. You’re most welcome, and thanks for sharing your experience. Thanks for watching.
Excellent, detailed video with a great presentation of clean but in-use engine bay. That edelbrock/comp stuff works and looks great these days, it's nice to have nice stuff that all works together properly. That cam is $237 which is 1/2 the price of a typical comp and small enough for no changes. Sounds powerful and more importantly it runs correctly.
Thank you, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah it’s a good combination, it runs well for being mostly stock engine, still a works of fun to drive. Thanks for watching.
Oh absolutely, they turn up fast and can put out some serious power. My first car was a 1968 mustang with a 289 that me and my dad built when I was 13 and that thing was wicked. Thanks for watching.
Very nice, they’re nice upgrades to do, and reasonably priced in today’s market. Nice car too, good luck on the upgrades and thanks for commenting and watching.
Nope, never had an issue and I’ve used it several times, just use electrical tape and wrap it good and snug and make several passes starting at the socket going up the extension and you’ll be good to go. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
This video is incredibly helpful, I’ve been scouring you tube looking for a tutorial on a ford cam swap but everything is all for chevys. I know they’re close enough but as a newbie hot rodder you never know.
Thanks bud, I’m glad it helped you, yeah everything is for chevy’s. It’s hard to find things Ford related sometimes. Good luck on your build and thanks for commenting and watching.
Thanks buddy I really appreciate that and I’m glad it could be helpful. I’m really not sure but I’d guess it’s making at least around 350 horsepower right now. Probably around the same in torque. Could be alittle more or alittle less. I can tell you that it definitely has more Pep than before though that’s for sure. It’ll set you back in the seat now without even flooring it, so it definitely made an improvement and made the car more fun to drive, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Great work! Geat sound have this cam! Can you tell me what the Part Number of this camshaft is or send me the camshaft link? Did you use stock lifters? and the spring valves are stock to? Normally, non-replacement cams use specific lifters and spring valves.
Thank you! I actually ended up installing two cams, the first one was the thumper cam www.compcams.com/thumpr-227-241-hydraulic-flat-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-ford-221-302-cpg.html It ended up being too much as I don’t have adjustable rocker arms and it was bending push rods so I installed another cam that I had on the shelf that unfortunately they don’t make anymore, it was the comp cams 265DEH, great cam so idk why they stopped making them. Yes I did use new hydraulic lifters for both cams, just whatever comp cams sales with their cams or whatever the auto parts store sales, nothing special just a normal hydraulic flat tappet lifter. I did use my stock springs and I can say that I definitely recommend getting stronger springs as they float too easy. Tunney work ok with the 265 cam but still could use better ones but the thumper cam definitely needs new ones. I didn’t want to invest in head work or a new set of heads as I don’t plan on keeping this engine but I wanted something more out of it for now until I build my other motor. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions, comments or concerns feel free to ask and I’ll answer the best I can. Thanks for watching.
Nice, explanation of a cam swap. I would have included venting the cooling system while refilling to remove all the air. Engine needs to run without problems for the cam break in.
Thanks bud I appreciate it. Yeah valid point, I guess I got to excited to hear it run and forgot. Thanks for the tip and thanks for commenting and watching.
@@damienmikkelsen6056 hell yeah, that’s great, the 289 is a great engine, I’m glad my video was able to help you and inspire you for your build. Good luck with your build and thanks for watching.
Nice vid about the swap I will do too in the future to my 68 Fairlane Hardtop Coupé with a 302. As I did that years before on another car I can say you covered all the important stuff other than the break in or torquing the rocker arms. I am searching for a mild cam which makes good torque and the wheels squeal. But without changing springs, rocker arms and these and that… Are you satisfied with the outcome? Why did you chose the CompCams? I stumbled across the Edelbrock Performer Plus, it seems quite the same. Was this a stock engine before? Keep up the good work, we 68/69 Fairlane/Torino drivers have to hold on together 😉👍🏻
Thank you very much! Nice car too, I’ve always loved these cars since the day I first saw them. Yeah I didn’t cover the break in mainly because it’s a cam that I already had on the shelf so it was already broke in, but I should have covered it anyway just for people with new cams but didn’t think about it. The rocker arm torque on those I just always tighten down good and tight since they’re tighten to stop style plus there lock nuts. I’ve always used comp cams, idk why I guess they’re just the ones I went to that had the cam profile and outcome I was looking for and I’ve never had a problem with their cams. Yes it was and still is a stock engine other than the cam and intake and carb. The cam I’m running now is a great cam and I ran it in my 76 ford truck before but unfortunately they don’t make this cam anymore it’s the comp cams DEH265 flat tappet cam. RPM range of about 1500-5800 duration-216-218 if I remember correctly with about a .500 lift. I’ve heard good things about Edelbrock cams but never actually bought one, my 71 ford truck 302 I had along time ago had an Edelbrock cam but I can’t tell you the spec’s because idk. I only know it had an Edelbrock cam because I tore it apart one time and looked at it but I reused it. It was a good cam had good torque, I think it was an RV cam because it sounded pretty stock but pulled good. I hope all this helps and answered all your questions, and I appreciate the compliment and you commenting and sharing. Yes we do need to stick together, there’s not many of us out there and we get overlooked by all the cliches like mustangs and Camaro’s. Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 Thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. Yes, that helped much! I will look around for a good cam within the spec range you told. Thanks again, appreciate your content ver much!
@@blackforestvintagefords7872 you’re very welcome, good luck on your build, hope it turns out how you want. Also I forgot to mention, if you’re wanting a cam that pulls good but you don’t care about lope or thump and all you want is torque, you can look into their 250h or 256h cams, they’re more like RV cams. Look for cams with RPM ranges of around 600-1200 RPM’s they pull good in low end.
Dude what intake gaskets you use i have the hole like your heads have and its not covering that hole and letting it leak vaccuum. Just recently picked up the truck and didnt know they had done the 351 head swap the carb was junk so i figured that was issue well after spraying carb cleaner around intake i noticed two visible holes above my edelbrock 289 intake
@@williamleadingham6276 sounds like you have the 77 and later model heads, in 77 they enlarged the holes in the intake ports where as the 76 and older heads had the smaller ports. So if you mix match the gaskets to the head then you could have a leak.
It's the port right dead center of the heads there's a hole above that that fits about maybe a pinky into I picked up 302 intake gaskets today but they are the same I pulled off and on your video I see that hole getting covered with my intake on I can still see half of that hole but on yours looks to disappear.... just learning this stuff if you can't tell first intake job LOL but I know sprays around the intake is where my rough idle disappeared and I figured that hole had some of the issue cause that's right around the area where it sucked in the carb cleaner and ran great! But I did notice they had the head sides facing intake side dunno if that matters or not I'd say it didn't help lol my bolts looked pretty rough so I'm gonna find me some good hardware kit for it that couldn't hurt it none either lol
Right at 3:45 in the video that small port with the holes on both sides I have no issues it's that hole up above it but your gaskets cover it perfectly mine will not
@@williamleadingham6276 gotcha, yeah those holes don’t go to anything, they have a bottom to them and even on mine they are partially out of the top of the gasket. It could be possible that your heads or intake isn’t true and flat or maybe you accidentally over tightened the bolts, that could cause it to leak too. I’d recommend getting some thicker gaskets, they thicker crush gaskets for uneven heads or intake so they seal. I believe they’re Mr gasket brand but don’t quote me on it. Your local part store should have them or be able to order them.
@FastFords289 thank you! I've torn it down yesterday and very hopeful on getting it back together this week and it being better than how they had it but like you I almost wonder if they'd got some heat into it and ruin the trueness of surfaces or anything else like that
The stock exhaust manifols will make it hard to get 1 hp/ci......Long tube headers will REALLY bump up lower speed torque, as well as high rpm HP.....Shorties only help at high engine speeds, ( if you need to kill low speed torque for traction).
Yeah I was gonna get some headers for it but I put that on hood as I have plans for another engine build and I’ll get headers for that one when I get done, but I absolutely agree it would definitely help. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
Have a question about the 68 torino I had in 1974 ,when I was doing the heads on my 289 it was a 302 block and I was sure it had never been worked on before. Heads stamped 289 and the block was 302 stamped, has anyone heard of this just wondering 🤔 💭
@@stevehusk6215 great question and cool car by the way. Well the 302 was introduced in 68 so sometimes when the factory was assembling the engines they would just grab whatever was available and since they still had some 289 stamped parts such as blocks and heads they would get put together. The 289 and 302 are the same engine, only difference was the crankshaft and connecting rods, but nothing else changed in the design, just the stamping. Hope this helped, thanks for watching.
@@sheldonkepley4585 plain stock 74 302 heads. Not good heads which is why the engine doesn’t run as well as it could and should. I just don’t invest in new heads because I plan on building a 351c for it eventually and will get aluminum heads then. Thanks for watching.
@@sheldonkepley4585 that’s awesome, yeah I love these old cars, just don’t make ‘em like that anymore and you never see them. Glad you enjoy my videos and find them entertaining and helpful, that’s what it’s all about. Thanks for watching and being a supporter.
Yeah I know, I wasn’t speaking literally, but you do want to run zinc. The break in oil is fine but I’ve just always ran regular oil with the zinc additive, and I’ve never had a problem, the break in oil is nothing more than regular oil with extra zinc so you have that vision between the metal surfaces. Really just comes down to preference, but I appreciate the input. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
HI , CAN SOME ONE PLEASE,PLEASE. PLEASE ,PLEASE,PLEASE JUST SHOW A VIDEO OF PUTTING THE REGULAR PULLYS ON A FORD 302 ENGINE LIKE I BEEN SEARCHING FOR TWO DAYS PLEASE HELP.......
Real detailed video. Helping me out as I plan on finishing my first engine build and starting to plan on first fire up on an engine stand. Thanks again for posting.
I appreciate it, glad you liked it and was helpful to you, good luck on your build, hope all goes well.
Thanks for watching.
I’ve been planning out a mild build on my 289 including a hotter cam and 4 bbl swap and this video hit every nail on the head for what I wanted to know a cam swap entails, kudos to you on a great diy video
Thanks bud, I’m glad it helped you and was informative. It definitely makes a difference and is fun to see and hear the results when it’s all done. Good luck on your build and hope all goes well. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Nice tutorial video, good job. I replaced my harmonic balancer with a Ford Racing harmonic balancer (28.2 oz) when i did my 351w swap. It's machined for 3 and 4 hole crankshaft pulleys. It had a huge difference how smooth and how the engine reved. Totally worth the exta $$ , if in the budget. I also replaced the harmoic balancer bolt with and ARP one.
Thanks for sharing!
That’s great! I definitely plan on buying a new high performance harmonic balancer when I build the 351c I plan on swapping in hopefully soon in the future. I can believe how much a difference it made, those high performance machined parts non comparable to stock parts. Glad you liked the video, and glad it was helpful. You’re most welcome, and thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent, detailed video with a great presentation of clean but in-use engine bay. That edelbrock/comp stuff works and looks great these days, it's nice to have nice stuff that all works together properly. That cam is $237 which is 1/2 the price of a typical comp and small enough for no changes. Sounds powerful and more importantly it runs correctly.
Thank you, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah it’s a good combination, it runs well for being mostly stock engine, still a works of fun to drive.
Thanks for watching.
Great Job making this video Bro. Very informative!
@@timseely2422 thanks bud, much appreciated, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thank you. Really like the way you explain things.
No problem, I’m glad you liked the video, appreciate the compliment.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the quality vid! Very informative and helpful
You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed it and was helpful to you. Good luck on your build.
Thanks for watching.
Those 289s are very good, reliable engines
Oh absolutely, they turn up fast and can put out some serious power. My first car was a 1968 mustang with a 289 that me and my dad built when I was 13 and that thing was wicked.
Thanks for watching.
Zoooooeeeyy! Great job Bossman.
Thank you! Much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for watching.
I have a 289 2bbl crying out for new cam, new intake and carb - California 65 coupe now resides in the UK
Very nice, they’re nice upgrades to do, and reasonably priced in today’s market. Nice car too, good luck on the upgrades and thanks for commenting and watching.
I was wondering about your tape & socket setup, did it come off when you were priming the engine?
Nope, never had an issue and I’ve used it several times, just use electrical tape and wrap it good and snug and make several passes starting at the socket going up the extension and you’ll be good to go. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
This video is incredibly helpful, I’ve been scouring you tube looking for a tutorial on a ford cam swap but everything is all for chevys. I know they’re close enough but as a newbie hot rodder you never know.
Thanks bud, I’m glad it helped you, yeah everything is for chevy’s. It’s hard to find things Ford related sometimes. Good luck on your build and thanks for commenting and watching.
Did a great job great video
Thank you! I really appreciate that and I’m glad you liked it/ and or helpful as well. Thanks for watching.
Great work! Lots of helpful DIY details. What do you think this would dyno at? I know it’s a cruiser but curious.
Thanks buddy I really appreciate that and I’m glad it could be helpful. I’m really not sure but I’d guess it’s making at least around 350 horsepower right now. Probably around the same in torque. Could be alittle more or alittle less. I can tell you that it definitely has more Pep than before though that’s for sure. It’ll set you back in the seat now without even flooring it, so it definitely made an improvement and made the car more fun to drive, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Great work!
Geat sound have this cam!
Can you tell me what the Part Number of this camshaft is or send me the camshaft link?
Did you use stock lifters? and the spring valves are stock to?
Normally, non-replacement cams use specific lifters and spring valves.
Thank you! I actually ended up installing two cams, the first one was the thumper cam www.compcams.com/thumpr-227-241-hydraulic-flat-cam-and-lifter-kit-for-ford-221-302-cpg.html
It ended up being too much as I don’t have adjustable rocker arms and it was bending push rods so I installed another cam that I had on the shelf that unfortunately they don’t make anymore, it was the comp cams 265DEH, great cam so idk why they stopped making them. Yes I did use new hydraulic lifters for both cams, just whatever comp cams sales with their cams or whatever the auto parts store sales, nothing special just a normal hydraulic flat tappet lifter. I did use my stock springs and I can say that I definitely recommend getting stronger springs as they float too easy. Tunney work ok with the 265 cam but still could use better ones but the thumper cam definitely needs new ones. I didn’t want to invest in head work or a new set of heads as I don’t plan on keeping this engine but I wanted something more out of it for now until I build my other motor. Hope this helps, if you have any other questions, comments or concerns feel free to ask and I’ll answer the best I can.
Thanks for watching.
Dam fine machine I’m butt hurt !
Lol, appreciate it, glad you liked it.
Thanks for watching.
Nice, explanation of a cam swap. I would have included venting the cooling system while refilling to remove all the air. Engine needs to run without problems for the cam break in.
Thanks bud I appreciate it. Yeah valid point, I guess I got to excited to hear it run and forgot. Thanks for the tip and thanks for commenting and watching.
under rated video. 👍🏻💯
Thanks bud, that’s greatly appreciated, thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 I’m literally putting together my first 289 next week when I get the crank back from the machine shop to this video. Thank you.
@@damienmikkelsen6056 hell yeah, that’s great, the 289 is a great engine, I’m glad my video was able to help you and inspire you for your build. Good luck with your build and thanks for watching.
Good vid
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching.
Nice vid about the swap I will do too in the future to my 68 Fairlane Hardtop Coupé with a 302. As I did that years before on another car I can say you covered all the important stuff other than the break in or torquing the rocker arms.
I am searching for a mild cam which makes good torque and the wheels squeal. But without changing springs, rocker arms and these and that… Are you satisfied with the outcome? Why did you chose the CompCams? I stumbled across the Edelbrock Performer Plus, it seems quite the same. Was this a stock engine before?
Keep up the good work, we 68/69 Fairlane/Torino drivers have to hold on together 😉👍🏻
Thank you very much! Nice car too, I’ve always loved these cars since the day I first saw them.
Yeah I didn’t cover the break in mainly because it’s a cam that I already had on the shelf so it was already broke in, but I should have covered it anyway just for people with new cams but didn’t think about it. The rocker arm torque on those I just always tighten down good and tight since they’re tighten to stop style plus there lock nuts.
I’ve always used comp cams, idk why I guess they’re just the ones I went to that had the cam profile and outcome I was looking for and I’ve never had a problem with their cams.
Yes it was and still is a stock engine other than the cam and intake and carb. The cam I’m running now is a great cam and I ran it in my 76 ford truck before but unfortunately they don’t make this cam anymore it’s the comp cams DEH265 flat tappet cam. RPM range of about 1500-5800 duration-216-218 if I remember correctly with about a .500 lift.
I’ve heard good things about Edelbrock cams but never actually bought one, my 71 ford truck 302 I had along time ago had an Edelbrock cam but I can’t tell you the spec’s because idk. I only know it had an Edelbrock cam because I tore it apart one time and looked at it but I reused it. It was a good cam had good torque, I think it was an RV cam because it sounded pretty stock but pulled good.
I hope all this helps and answered all your questions, and I appreciate the compliment and you commenting and sharing.
Yes we do need to stick together, there’s not many of us out there and we get overlooked by all the cliches like mustangs and Camaro’s.
Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 Thank you very much for your comprehensive answer. Yes, that helped much! I will look around for a good cam within the spec range you told. Thanks again, appreciate your content ver much!
@@blackforestvintagefords7872 you’re very welcome, good luck on your build, hope it turns out how you want. Also I forgot to mention, if you’re wanting a cam that pulls good but you don’t care about lope or thump and all you want is torque, you can look into their 250h or 256h cams, they’re more like RV cams. Look for cams with RPM ranges of around 600-1200 RPM’s they pull good in low end.
Just a spot on video and tutorial. 👍🏻 Well done
Much appreciated bud, glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching.
Dude what intake gaskets you use i have the hole like your heads have and its not covering that hole and letting it leak vaccuum. Just recently picked up the truck and didnt know they had done the 351 head swap the carb was junk so i figured that was issue well after spraying carb cleaner around intake i noticed two visible holes above my edelbrock 289 intake
@@williamleadingham6276 sounds like you have the 77 and later model heads, in 77 they enlarged the holes in the intake ports where as the 76 and older heads had the smaller ports. So if you mix match the gaskets to the head then you could have a leak.
It's the port right dead center of the heads there's a hole above that that fits about maybe a pinky into I picked up 302 intake gaskets today but they are the same I pulled off and on your video I see that hole getting covered with my intake on I can still see half of that hole but on yours looks to disappear.... just learning this stuff if you can't tell first intake job LOL but I know sprays around the intake is where my rough idle disappeared and I figured that hole had some of the issue cause that's right around the area where it sucked in the carb cleaner and ran great! But I did notice they had the head sides facing intake side dunno if that matters or not I'd say it didn't help lol my bolts looked pretty rough so I'm gonna find me some good hardware kit for it that couldn't hurt it none either lol
Right at 3:45 in the video that small port with the holes on both sides I have no issues it's that hole up above it but your gaskets cover it perfectly mine will not
@@williamleadingham6276 gotcha, yeah those holes don’t go to anything, they have a bottom to them and even on mine they are partially out of the top of the gasket. It could be possible that your heads or intake isn’t true and flat or maybe you accidentally over tightened the bolts, that could cause it to leak too. I’d recommend getting some thicker gaskets, they thicker crush gaskets for uneven heads or intake so they seal. I believe they’re Mr gasket brand but don’t quote me on it. Your local part store should have them or be able to order them.
@FastFords289 thank you! I've torn it down yesterday and very hopeful on getting it back together this week and it being better than how they had it but like you I almost wonder if they'd got some heat into it and ruin the trueness of surfaces or anything else like that
The stock exhaust manifols will make it hard to get 1 hp/ci......Long tube headers will REALLY bump up lower speed torque, as well as high rpm HP.....Shorties only help at high engine speeds, ( if you need to kill low speed torque for traction).
Yeah I was gonna get some headers for it but I put that on hood as I have plans for another engine build and I’ll get headers for that one when I get done, but I absolutely agree it would definitely help. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
Have a question about the 68 torino I had in 1974 ,when I was doing the heads on my 289 it was a 302 block and I was sure it had never been worked on before. Heads stamped 289 and the block was 302 stamped, has anyone heard of this just wondering 🤔 💭
@@stevehusk6215 great question and cool car by the way. Well the 302 was introduced in 68 so sometimes when the factory was assembling the engines they would just grab whatever was available and since they still had some 289 stamped parts such as blocks and heads they would get put together. The 289 and 302 are the same engine, only difference was the crankshaft and connecting rods, but nothing else changed in the design, just the stamping. Hope this helped, thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 ya makes sense, just was hoping that I had something special in that motor. It ran great for a stock motor
@@stevehusk6215 oh yeah, those 289/302’s run good especially before the smog era started getting set in.
Did u break in the cam 25minutes @ 2500 rpm
Yes sir, sure did.
what heads are those?
@@sheldonkepley4585 plain stock 74 302 heads. Not good heads which is why the engine doesn’t run as well as it could and should. I just don’t invest in new heads because I plan on building a 351c for it eventually and will get aluminum heads then. Thanks for watching.
@@FastFords289 man, i have the same car , i sure appreciate all your videos.
@@sheldonkepley4585 that’s awesome, yeah I love these old cars, just don’t make ‘em like that anymore and you never see them. Glad you enjoy my videos and find them entertaining and helpful, that’s what it’s all about. Thanks for watching and being a supporter.
You absolutely can have too much zinc. Run break in oil after that just the ZR1. Source: Motul
Yeah I know, I wasn’t speaking literally, but you do want to run zinc. The break in oil is fine but I’ve just always ran regular oil with the zinc additive, and I’ve never had a problem, the break in oil is nothing more than regular oil with extra zinc so you have that vision between the metal surfaces. Really just comes down to preference, but I appreciate the input. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching.
HI , CAN SOME ONE PLEASE,PLEASE. PLEASE ,PLEASE,PLEASE JUST SHOW A VIDEO OF PUTTING THE REGULAR PULLYS ON A FORD 302 ENGINE LIKE I BEEN SEARCHING FOR TWO DAYS PLEASE HELP.......