Ray made a shield that fixes the issue with the fan blowing downward. He added the files to his Thingiverse page and it's a fast and easy print. Link in the description.
The adapter in PLA was a bit wobbly for me (although now I realize I had the hot end rotated 90 degrees clockwise, so maybe that was a factor); I ended up cutting the top (including the first fin) off the stock hot-end, and then making a small square piece of sheet metal with a hole in the middle that slipped over that - basically re-creating the adapter, and that's been working! I broke my stock heat-break by over-tightening it after many months of good use, so I wasn't too worried about sacrificing the already-broken original.
I've been hoping you'd do a video about replacing the S2 hot end. I already have the new hot end on my desk, just need to get some TPU and PETG to print the parts now. Thanks to Ray for designing the adapter parts.
Just did this mod to my s2 and i think they watched your video and shorten the lead on the heater and thermister cause it was a bear to get the heatbreak installed into the mount. But i closed my eyes and gave it a tug and prayed i didn't break the wires and it went. Great video fedor.
I’ve been looking at the S2 and the thing that was stopping me from buying it was the hot end but this removes that dilemma for me. Thanks for a great video and to Ray for a great fix 👍
Hi Fedor, thanks for all your work here. The Aquila S2 seems to horizontally hit the material at times which will make the print loose its adhesion and move along with the nozzle, so I'll have to stop. Have you so far experienced this? Could it be related to the z-hop (0.3 mm) or the travel speed (180 mm/s)? I haven't actually seen the nozzle hit the print, but I have no other idea on why it would spontaneously loose its adhesion to the ground.
Could it be that your first layer is not close enough to the plate. Maybe you need to adjust the gap between print head and plate a tiny bit so it gets jusa bit tighter, that way the first layer will be a bit flatter, giving more adhesion.
Printed out of petg and hotend started sagging… assuming the inland translucent red is not as pure of petg as the California filament used in video…gonna try printing the hotend adapter in nylon alloy 910 and see if it holds up
Thanks for the walk through! Printing the adapter for this tomorrow after the parts for my laser get done printing, got an awesome goo monster going on where the break meets the heat block. Changed the nozzle the other night and have had nothing but problems ever since. Do you have a link for the spool holder? I have looked for it before and can't find it lol.
Hey Fedor, Maybe you can design a TPU Base to hold the S2 Dryer so it is more gripping to the surfaces and more area to hold it there? A nice project to try on a CAD that you can share the file after you have printed the base. I will be getting the Sun Lu S2 dryer as soon as the price drops a bit more! Still pricey here in the UK. It was £80 now a couple of months later after launch it is down to £64. I may even get around to building the 3D printer encloser that I brought awhile back? As I also can't print ABS or even some PETG even when I have them sitting in the S1 dryer from Sun Lu set to 55 C.
Hey mate great vid. I'm yet to receive my S2 but will def look at doing this mod. Quick question though, where did you get the design for the filament spool? would love to be able to clip mine straight on like you have :)
I have another question, the four screws you used to attach the mod to the hotend, they do not come with the hotend so could you give the specs of the screws?
I have this printer but my extruder fan on the front has stopped working, the 4010 fan doesn't fit are you able to advise what fan I can replace it with?
Is the Ray Bonneau modification compatible with the FlashForge Finder 3 and FlashForge Artemis printers which also use proprietary nozzles with what appears to be the same hot end assembly? If so, it would be a very useful upgrade for PETG and CFNylon for middle school and high school projects using profiles compatible with FlashPrint 5.5.0.
I think so, just can’t say for sure because I don’t have first hand experience. As far as I know, flashforge literally used the S2 hotend on an Aries and up charged the machine to more than double the cost.
Hello!, could you make a video about how to install the z axis endstop? I have the same machine like this but I dont know if mine is correctly installed in the right height
Great video and awesome mod. I don't understand why a company would do this, make a proprietary part on an otherwise open source machine. Solely to make money? That's like making a printer/copier for the office that only works on their paper.
@@3DPrintSOS not cool. Even a high dollar machine, parts that wear out regularly like the nozzle should be readily available. Ordering from China then sitting around with your head up your ass for 1-2 months is bullshit!
Hi Fedor, great video. I love your channel. I wanted to ask you for help with a problem I'm having. I have a Voxelab Aquila X2, and my extruder pulley stops after a while, it stops turning and when I press my extruder arm the pulley turns a little in the opposite direction, all the while the gear keeps turning and scrapes the filament , so it does not come out of the nozzle. I have already tried cleaning my hotend and checking for clogging, adjusting the pressure on my extruder arm, making sure the teflon tube is clean, increasing the print temperature a bit, cleaning my extruder gear, but none of these things has worked, could you help me to solve it?
They are in the first batch of links in the description labeled “In this video” and the best place to find all of them is on my discord server. There is a profiles section with all of my profiles. :)
old fidget spinners are a great source for bearings. They seem to have been over produced and I see them in bins for $1 on clearance. Some actually use bearings as weights in the arms of the spinner, so you get 4 bearings for a dollar when you can find those. I guess for the manufacturers, those bearings are actually cheaper than a simple steel weight!
Great video and great mod. The hotend from your link is soldout. This is my next weekend project. Did you also mod the firmware. If you did, could I get a link to that vide? Thank you!
New here, and new to printing! your videos have helped a ton. I am currently making my Aquila X2 direct drive thanks to your mod. I was wondering where the link or g code for the spool holder you made here is, I would love to download it! Thanks a bunch for the videos and cheers!
Are there any other aftermarket fan shrouds for this X-axis tray? I've not been able to find any. I like the printer, but looking for a more efficient fan and parts cooling solution
FYI - this hotend is no longer available! There is another hotend adapter print on Thingverse for the Creality Spider. I am probably going to go that route.
This is not the X2. This is an Aquila S2. It comes with a direct drive on it and firmware that allows it to get to 300c. H32 is still an H32 machine, but the problems have been resolved via a firmware update. There is even great 3rd party firmware out there by Alex. So, not really an issue anymore.
@@LoneWolfPrecisionLLC Oh! My bad, Taylor. Depends on what your end goal is really. The X2 is a better value, however, if you want to print hotter materials right away, the S2 is good at it. Even before the "fix".
Could i essentially, pull the thermistor and swap the nozzle block and continue? if in theory the nozzle length and parts removed are the same lengths? 🤔
Yeah if you buy their nozzle and block sure. Otherwise No you cant just swap. They are proprietary and are not interchangeable with others. So this mod helps you put on a setup that is completely interchangeable.
The Sprite extruder is triple the cost of this mod when it's on sale. Also, this is an Aquila S2, so it already has a direct drive extruder on it. Not to mention having to rewire everything to get the sprite to fit. Not worth it for this machine, in my opinion.
Ray made a shield that fixes the issue with the fan blowing downward. He added the files to his Thingiverse page and it's a fast and easy print. Link in the description.
The adapter in PLA was a bit wobbly for me (although now I realize I had the hot end rotated 90 degrees clockwise, so maybe that was a factor); I ended up cutting the top (including the first fin) off the stock hot-end, and then making a small square piece of sheet metal with a hole in the middle that slipped over that - basically re-creating the adapter, and that's been working! I broke my stock heat-break by over-tightening it after many months of good use, so I wasn't too worried about sacrificing the already-broken original.
For the record the shroud is a remix.. Original done by Prints Leo 3D..
I've been hoping you'd do a video about replacing the S2 hot end. I already have the new hot end on my desk, just need to get some TPU and PETG to print the parts now. Thanks to Ray for designing the adapter parts.
Just did this mod to my s2 and i think they watched your video and shorten the lead on the heater and thermister cause it was a bear to get the heatbreak installed into the mount. But i closed my eyes and gave it a tug and prayed i didn't break the wires and it went. Great video fedor.
I’ve been looking at the S2 and the thing that was stopping me from buying it was the hot end but this removes that dilemma for me. Thanks for a great video and to Ray for a great fix 👍
I just got one of this, your videos are so useful!
Hi Fedor, thanks for all your work here.
The Aquila S2 seems to horizontally hit the material at times which will make the print loose its adhesion and move along with the nozzle, so I'll have to stop.
Have you so far experienced this? Could it be related to the z-hop (0.3 mm) or the travel speed (180 mm/s)?
I haven't actually seen the nozzle hit the print, but I have no other idea on why it would spontaneously loose its adhesion to the ground.
Could it be that your first layer is not close enough to the plate. Maybe you need to adjust the gap between print head and plate a tiny bit so it gets jusa bit tighter, that way the first layer will be a bit flatter, giving more adhesion.
I accidentally took out the end stop... how do i fix it?
Great video as always, nice upgrade for the S2
Printed out of petg and hotend started sagging… assuming the inland translucent red is not as pure of petg as the California filament used in video…gonna try printing the hotend adapter in nylon alloy 910 and see if it holds up
Thanks for the walk through! Printing the adapter for this tomorrow after the parts for my laser get done printing, got an awesome goo monster going on where the break meets the heat block. Changed the nozzle the other night and have had nothing but problems ever since. Do you have a link for the spool holder? I have looked for it before and can't find it lol.
Hey Fedor, Maybe you can design a TPU Base to hold the S2 Dryer so it is more gripping to the surfaces and more area to hold it there?
A nice project to try on a CAD that you can share the file after you have printed the base.
I will be getting the Sun Lu S2 dryer as soon as the price drops a bit more! Still pricey here in the UK.
It was £80 now a couple of months later after launch it is down to £64.
I may even get around to building the 3D printer encloser that I brought awhile back?
As I also can't print ABS or even some PETG even when I have them sitting in the S1 dryer from Sun Lu set to 55 C.
Thats a great Idea. Maybe a good use case for the 3D Scanner I unboxed earlier. :)
@@3DPrintSOS probably will do this on my Sunlu S2 dryer too.. Should be an easy upgrade.
Hey mate great vid. I'm yet to receive my S2 but will def look at doing this mod. Quick question though, where did you get the design for the filament spool? would love to be able to clip mine straight on like you have :)
I have another question, the four screws you used to attach the mod to the hotend, they do not come with the hotend so could you give the specs of the screws?
Very nice upgrade, but what do i do if i cant get this hotend. what other hotends do you recomend
I actually don't think there are many choices to be honest. They do offer their nozzles now, so there is that luckily.
Just settled my doubts about buying this printer 😁
I have this printer but my extruder fan on the front has stopped working, the 4010 fan doesn't fit are you able to advise what fan I can replace it with?
Is the Ray Bonneau modification compatible with the FlashForge Finder 3 and FlashForge Artemis printers which also use proprietary nozzles with what appears to be the same hot end assembly?
If so, it would be a very useful upgrade for PETG and CFNylon for middle school and high school projects using profiles compatible with FlashPrint 5.5.0.
I think so, just can’t say for sure because I don’t have first hand experience. As far as I know, flashforge literally used the S2 hotend on an Aries and up charged the machine to more than double the cost.
Great upgrade. Was fixing to pull the trigger, but the new hot end is unavailable but the Voxelab parts are in stock. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️.
Can you please add a PLA cura profile for the S2
Hello!, could you make a video about how to install the z axis endstop? I have the same machine like this but I dont know if mine is correctly installed in the right height
Great video and awesome mod. I don't understand why a company would do this, make a proprietary part on an otherwise open source machine. Solely to make money? That's like making a printer/copier for the office that only works on their paper.
The entire Flashforge brand is built on proprietary parts. So it makes sense. In fact, they just rebranded the
@@3DPrintSOS not cool. Even a high dollar machine, parts that wear out regularly like the nozzle should be readily available. Ordering from China then sitting around with your head up your ass for 1-2 months is bullshit!
@3DPrintSOS Lift the switch? Where and what is the switch
Hi Fedor, great video. I love your channel.
I wanted to ask you for help with a problem I'm having. I have a Voxelab Aquila X2, and my extruder pulley stops after a while, it stops turning and when I press my extruder arm the pulley turns a little in the opposite direction, all the while the gear keeps turning and scrapes the filament , so it does not come out of the nozzle. I have already tried cleaning my hotend and checking for clogging, adjusting the pressure on my extruder arm, making sure the teflon tube is clean, increasing the print temperature a bit, cleaning my extruder gear, but none of these things has worked, could you help me to solve it?
Where did you put the profiles for the s2? I can't see them here as you stated.
They are in the first batch of links in the description labeled “In this video” and the best place to find all of them is on my discord server. There is a profiles section with all of my profiles. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I'll check tmw when I checkin there. Thanks.
How well does it do with pla
old fidget spinners are a great source for bearings. They seem to have been over produced and I see them in bins for $1 on clearance. Some actually use bearings as weights in the arms of the spinner, so you get 4 bearings for a dollar when you can find those. I guess for the manufacturers, those bearings are actually cheaper than a simple steel weight!
This is a direct drive, will the same mod work with a boden set up?
No sir. This is a proprietary direct drive. So only for this specific machine.
Great video and great mod. The hotend from your link is soldout. This is my next weekend project. Did you also mod the firmware. If you did, could I get a link to that vide? Thank you!
On this one, the firmware is the same. However, you could always swap to Alex's if you'd like.
any idea what to use for an all-metal dual gear extruder upgrade? i cant find any direct replacements that fit....
New here, and new to printing! your videos have helped a ton. I am currently making my Aquila X2 direct drive thanks to your mod. I was wondering where the link or g code for the spool holder you made here is, I would love to download it! Thanks a bunch for the videos and cheers!
@3DPrintSOS I was looking for the extruder and is currently unavailable, is there another alternative extruder compatible?
Are there any other aftermarket fan shrouds for this X-axis tray? I've not been able to find any. I like the printer, but looking for a more efficient fan and parts cooling solution
FYI - this hotend is no longer available! There is another hotend adapter print on Thingverse for the Creality Spider. I am probably going to go that route.
Looks like the new spider might be the ticket. I’ll have to do some testing.
@@3DPrintSOS there's also a file for the Micro Swiss. I think I'm leaning towards the Dragonfly BMS.
@@3DPrintSOS Is the new Red Lizard K1 a swap in replacement for the Q1?
Hello, what are the dimensions of the PTFE tube?
Ever figure that out. Buddy just said a tub and didn’t say anything from there
So I am gaveling trouble get my firmware to download it won’t show the bar and the check I put it in the screen and the printer
Hi thx for video i have buy a aquila s2.
Where is file for your filament spool bracket .
thx
Hi Fedor, can you please share a link to the spool holder .stl file you printed in this video?
Sure: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4650742
I tried importing your profiles and it worked but I have to change it to a 0.6 nozzle for it to show up not sure why?
Havent heard of that ever happening. You're a pioneer! haha
I bought a s2 and hotend just because I want try it out
Nice! I think you'll love it.
@@3DPrintSOS I like the 300 degree potential and using the firmware that’s already on it supports that’s is nice
The Haldis Red Lizard Q1 isn't available anymore, is the screw pattern the same for others, like the "Haldis Red Lizard V5 Pro"?
I oreded mine from Aliexpress. It's just a waiting on shipment game.
I just Found your Fix nice !!
Also check out the Direct Drive Battle series. At the end there was a huge evaluation of all the machines. Think it might help you pick one.
This or just upgrade an x2? Is h h32 issue still common?
This is not the X2. This is an Aquila S2. It comes with a direct drive on it and firmware that allows it to get to 300c. H32 is still an H32 machine, but the problems have been resolved via a firmware update. There is even great 3rd party firmware out there by Alex. So, not really an issue anymore.
@@3DPrintSOS I'm aware. I was asking if I should get this or purchase the x2 and upgrade the hottend and extruder
@@LoneWolfPrecisionLLC Oh! My bad, Taylor. Depends on what your end goal is really. The X2 is a better value, however, if you want to print hotter materials right away, the S2 is good at it. Even before the "fix".
@@3DPrintSOS perfect. On their website it's actually the same price for both😅
Ray rocks
Thanks.
Could i essentially, pull the thermistor and swap the nozzle block and continue? if in theory the nozzle length and parts removed are the same lengths? 🤔
Yeah if you buy their nozzle and block sure. Otherwise No you cant just swap. They are proprietary and are not interchangeable with others. So this mod helps you put on a setup that is completely interchangeable.
nice
Why not just put the Creality print head on the machine? The Sprite, I think they call it.
The Sprite extruder is triple the cost of this mod when it's on sale. Also, this is an Aquila S2, so it already has a direct drive extruder on it. Not to mention having to rewire everything to get the sprite to fit. Not worth it for this machine, in my opinion.
couldn't you just you just cut down volcano nozzles?
yes.
I got a voxelab aquila and for some reson,it acts like it wants to print,then stops,any suggestions??