Quality work, good to see someone showing the importance of the anti corrosion steps, most people skip these steps and wonder why the rust returns! these anti corrosion steps are more important than the top coats! as they will insure longevity.
This paint process is huge investment, I think it is fair to describe yourselves as 'artists' rather than bodyshop painters. The time, process and dedication to Novol product suite, I think as described is for 'concours' finish.
Stunning, watching this is a journey back in time to learning the first steps of body work in the early 80's . I used to be allowed in a body shop paint booth to learn the stop/start points of a repaint. then a bit of trade work blowing in repairs to full repaint of a Rolls Royce in the old single pack system of 3 coats then rub it down then 3 more and so on lol
Great videos, straight talking and educational... Out of interest, what percentage of the lacquer that comes out the gun ends up on the car panels? Is it roughly the same for the paint and other materials that are sprayed on? Do gun manufacturers consider the efficiency of the gun in terms of how much material ends up on the panel for the same spraying scenario? Cheers!
Great vid and incredible attention to detail. I suppose the question I have always had about a 'full respray' like this is why you haven't attended to the other parts of the shell - i.e. why wasn't the engine, trim, running gear etc... not removed, the car blasted and painted on a rotisserie first ? A lot of amazing work was done to take outside to near concours level but the rest of the car wasn't touched.
The rest of the vehicle doesn't always need doing, that's were these guys with the experience come in, alot of amateurs would rip the whole car apart doing unnecessary work and make a mess of it.
Looks expensive! Better than factory? Absolutely. One would think that new cars are cost-cut to the last penny and therefore cars rust. New and old, unless they live in Arizona or the likes. I'll bet those vehicles you people are painting properly will last quite a while, even in harsh conditions. Very nice, cheers.
Hi, very interesting video, I have a quick question please if you don't mind. Would you say that the Novol product HAS to be baked? or given time will it cure properly anyway? say left for a couple of weeks? I mostly do classic car mechanical work now, I haven't got the room or the budget for a spray booth these days (and nearing retirement) but do get the odd customer wanting some paintwork as this is my background. I mostly use Max Meyer products, but my supplier is getting a bit hit and miss, so looking for an alternative. Do you think that Novol would be suitable for me? I do have a dedicated clean spraying area with extraction, filters etc, but it is not heated. Thank you. Tony.
Hi Tony, just in case you don't get a reply from the channel, I have just checked the data sheets for all the products and Novol quote 20 degree C curing times for all of them. Obviously the baking speeds the curing an awful lot. If the product in question is the spray filler, they quote 2 to 3 hours at 20 degrees and only 40 minutes at 60. Because all those spray fillers are quite porous, 2 weeks would possibly be a bad idea. I'm a 72 year old DIY painter with about 4 full cars' worth of experience, so by no means an expert, I try not to paint below 12 degrees, but if you are not doing full cars, or like me doing a panel at a time, you can easily warm up the area you are spraying beforehand, and those cheap and nasty halogen heaters actually give off a good amount of short range infra red, so if I paint a panel in winter I use one at a distance of about 1 metre just for belt and braces. I have never used any of the Novol product because I just can't afford it. I have stuck with HB Body products and have had superb results. If you Google them you will see that they have a very impressive setup (in Greece). The Novol for Classic Cars thing is as much about the process and discipline as the product itself. The real star of the Novol show is the epoxy based finishing primer which they have apparently formulated to not clog sand paper, a problem with all epoxy primers generally.
Absolutely beautiful work.
Astonishing finish from the gun.
Absolute quality 👏👏👏
Quality work, good to see someone showing the importance of the anti corrosion steps, most people skip these steps and wonder why the rust returns! these anti corrosion steps are more important than the top coats! as they will insure longevity.
I truly enjoy your youtube channel, great presentation, informative, and fun to watch, Thank You
Super job and very interesting 👍
This paint process is huge investment, I think it is fair to describe yourselves as 'artists' rather than bodyshop painters. The time, process and dedication to Novol product suite, I think as described is for 'concours' finish.
Greatly informative video. Thanks for posting :0)
Stunning, watching this is a journey back in time to learning the first steps of body work in the early 80's . I used to be allowed in a body shop paint booth to learn the stop/start points of a repaint. then a bit of trade work blowing in repairs to full repaint of a Rolls Royce in the old single pack system of 3 coats then rub it down then 3 more and so on lol
Same colour as my 1972 3.0SI I had in 1980. Fantastic car ! 200hp
Brilliant job. Would you happen to know what the reading might be if one was to do a paint thickness measurement on the finished surface?
118 hours prep before topcoat. Wow !😮
Very interesting video thank you.
Nice job! Looks like Agave green 1971-3 on a 3.0Si like that.
Superb!!
Great videos, straight talking and educational... Out of interest, what percentage of the lacquer that comes out the gun ends up on the car panels? Is it roughly the same for the paint and other materials that are sprayed on? Do gun manufacturers consider the efficiency of the gun in terms of how much material ends up on the panel for the same spraying scenario? Cheers!
Is this the same process for a fibreglass car such as a TVR?
A pay rise please for Luke, who's getting all the hard jobs!
Great vid and incredible attention to detail. I suppose the question I have always had about a 'full respray' like this is why you haven't attended to the other parts of the shell - i.e. why wasn't the engine, trim, running gear etc... not removed, the car blasted and painted on a rotisserie first ? A lot of amazing work was done to take outside to near concours level but the rest of the car wasn't touched.
The rest of the vehicle doesn't always need doing, that's were these guys with the experience come in, alot of amateurs would rip the whole car apart doing unnecessary work and make a mess of it.
Looks expensive! Better than factory? Absolutely. One would think that new cars are cost-cut to the last penny and therefore cars rust. New and old, unless they live in Arizona or the likes. I'll bet those vehicles you people are painting properly will last quite a while, even in harsh conditions. Very nice, cheers.
Hi, very interesting video, I have a quick question please if you don't mind. Would you say that the Novol product HAS to be baked? or given time will it cure properly anyway? say left for a couple of weeks?
I mostly do classic car mechanical work now, I haven't got the room or the budget for a spray booth these days (and nearing retirement) but do get the odd customer wanting some paintwork as this is my background.
I mostly use Max Meyer products, but my supplier is getting a bit hit and miss, so looking for an alternative.
Do you think that Novol would be suitable for me? I do have a dedicated clean spraying area with extraction, filters etc, but it is not heated.
Thank you.
Tony.
Hi Tony, just in case you don't get a reply from the channel, I have just checked the data sheets for all the products and Novol quote 20 degree C curing times for all of them. Obviously the baking speeds the curing an awful lot. If the product in question is the spray filler, they quote 2 to 3 hours at 20 degrees and only 40 minutes at 60. Because all those spray fillers are quite porous, 2 weeks would possibly be a bad idea. I'm a 72 year old DIY painter with about 4 full cars' worth of experience, so by no means an expert, I try not to paint below 12 degrees, but if you are not doing full cars, or like me doing a panel at a time, you can easily warm up the area you are spraying beforehand, and those cheap and nasty halogen heaters actually give off a good amount of short range infra red, so if I paint a panel in winter I use one at a distance of about 1 metre just for belt and braces. I have never used any of the Novol product because I just can't afford it. I have stuck with HB Body products and have had superb results. If you Google them you will see that they have a very impressive setup (in Greece). The Novol for Classic Cars thing is as much about the process and discipline as the product itself. The real star of the Novol show is the epoxy based finishing primer which they have apparently formulated to not clog sand paper, a problem with all epoxy primers generally.