Galvanic corrosion is happening because they installed a steel clamp around an aluminum line. Its common in many industries where something is engineered with a particular life span. Anyone who works with metal (auto manufacturers of course) knows that aluminum and carbon steel don’t play nice for long. Thanks for the fix and the warning to anyone with one of these vans to place a rubber insulator between the tubes and the clamps to insure this doesn’t happen to them. A piece of bicycle tube would work. Thanks again!
I'm amazed this is not already a lawsuit against good ol dodge, as it is pretty obvious case of planned obsolence. They could have clearly used an aluminum bracket or polymer
A most detailed explanation and demonstration. I especially enjoyed your explanation of your thought processes and the decisions you made, and the one year followup.
I see alot of your caravan / town and country videos they are very helpful thanks for taking the time and effort to help other people. I still can't believe this Ac nonsense it should have been a factory re-call
I wouldn't doubt it if the bracket is what caused the hole to begin with. By driving and the tubing rattling around, the aluminum tubing would eventually wear it down. The other thing is the bracket looks like steel since it looked rusted. When it rains, water will get between the steel bracket and aluminum tubing which would cause galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals. I would recommend installing some rubber gasket material between the bracket and tubing to help prevent any chaffing or galvanic corrosion.
2:12 into the video reveals galvanic action, chemical reaction between two dissimilar metals. The steel bracket holding lines against the chassis are there for a reason but remember, steel rusts. Galvanic reaction did the rest to corrode the aluminum ac line as aluminum turns darker as it oxidizes. Eventually corrosion broke thru the thin walled aluminum and the leak results. Aluminum soldering is possible while compression fittings are another method. The hvac industry uses a product described as snot and resembles it but in tinted colors, blue or other color. It's like a very slow setting glue to help seal threaded fittings on whole house central ac systems. Whether this product and judicious use of compression fittings work is anyone's guess but well worth a try.
I love cheap innovative fixes! I am glad to hear that this fix has held up for a couple years because I am about to try this exact thing on my 2006 Acura MDX. Was going to buy a splice kit at local car parts store but they don’t have any, so why not try this close to free solution?
just an idea, wouldn't it have been a good idea to wrap some maybe bike inner tube to the lines to keep them from making contact with the bracket, just a thought.
Not a bad idea, but in this case the tubes basically snap into the clamps, so it would take some modification to have them work with the increased diameter of the rubber. What I do is spray the clamps with a product called Fluid Film every few months. It penetrates and forms a corrosion resistant layer.
It's just heater hose. Pick a size with the Inside diameter about the same size as the Outside diameter of the tube. Once you split the hose check the fit. If anything you want it a bit short of going all the way around so the clamp pulls it together. Clean the tube, apply a bit of silicone to the inside of the hose for a better seal and some grip. Mine is still working well on the low pressure side 25-50psi, but not sure if it would work as well on the high pressure side, but it probably would.
I need help... A Chrysler that my friend owns has a really weard leak, we filed the car with water to see where the leak was but nothing then we ran it for a fuew minutes to see if enithing happened nothing, so we went for a ride it went great until he trys to put it in to 3 gear and the engine shuts off it wasn't over heated or enithing so he starts it again and when he trys 3 gear again same thing, so we go back and only at the last 5 meters of driving it starts leaking really badly so we shut it down and fill it up again. No leakage!!!!! He starts the car moves it around again No leaking Not a single drop. Can enibody help me? The car is a Chrysler voyager 2.5 crd diesel from 2002
I hesitate to reply as this is a weird set of symptoms and not being able to look things over really ties both hands, but the engine shutting off when put in 3rd gear is likely unrelated to the water leak. Often times a water pump or hose will not leak much until the engine heats up and builds pressure, so this is a possibility. If you are filling the coolant system too full when it is cold it will eventually squirt out when the water gets hot and expands. Now days cars have a coolant overflow tank, but sometimes those get a hole or crack in them. I have no ideas about the engine shutting off when shifting into 3rd gear.
Still holding since June of 2017 (2+ years). I've sprayed it with leak detector and no bubbles. I have not added more refrigerant. It started as a temp fix, but is now run to failure. It's on the low pressure side, which helps.
This is really sad. This leak was caused by dissimilar metals between the steel bracket and the aluminum tube. The bracket should have been made of plastic.
It's holding up just fine. No Refrigerant added since and it's working great even in the hot weather. Unless something goes bad I don't have any plans to make a better fix.
It's a year later and still holding. I had a refrigerant sniffer out the other day and sniffed around this hose and clamp and could not find any leak. As replacement lines are a dealer only part, in short supply, and expensive this may be the permanent fix. I think adding the small amount of silicone helped "glue" it to the pipe. I have not even tightened the hose clamp.
The tubes basically snap into the clamps, so it would take some modification to have them work with the increased diameter of the rubber. What I do is spray the clamps with a product called Fluid Film every year. It penetrates and forms a corrosion resistant layer.
And I can't find anyone to fix it That's what they should have done, to fix my ac, buttt...they quit on it and that's similar to all it needs.Truthfully the dealership has been more biased than the local mechanic! I have the exact same leak up under the spare tire.
Galvanic corrosion is happening because they installed a steel clamp around an aluminum line. Its common in many industries where something is engineered with a particular life span. Anyone who works with metal (auto manufacturers of course) knows that aluminum and carbon steel don’t play nice for long. Thanks for the fix and the warning to anyone with one of these vans to place a rubber insulator between the tubes and the clamps to insure this doesn’t happen to them. A piece of bicycle tube would work. Thanks again!
I'm amazed this is not already a lawsuit against good ol dodge, as it is pretty obvious case of planned obsolence.
They could have clearly used an aluminum bracket or polymer
Four years later an still holding. I have installed a new A/C compressor since when, but have never found signs of this splice leaking.
That's great mate, so ......hose, silicon, clamp really tight and that's all ?
Thanks
A most detailed explanation and demonstration. I especially enjoyed your explanation of your thought processes and the decisions you made, and the one year followup.
I see alot of your caravan / town and country videos they are very helpful thanks for taking the time and effort to help other people. I still can't believe this Ac nonsense it should have been a factory re-call
I wouldn't doubt it if the bracket is what caused the hole to begin with. By driving and the tubing rattling around, the aluminum tubing would eventually wear it down. The other thing is the bracket looks like steel since it looked rusted. When it rains, water will get between the steel bracket and aluminum tubing which would cause galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals. I would recommend installing some rubber gasket material between the bracket and tubing to help prevent any chaffing or galvanic corrosion.
2:12 into the video reveals galvanic action, chemical reaction between two dissimilar metals. The steel bracket holding lines against the chassis are there for a reason but remember, steel rusts. Galvanic reaction did the rest to corrode the aluminum ac line as aluminum turns darker as it oxidizes. Eventually corrosion broke thru the thin walled aluminum and the leak results. Aluminum soldering is possible while compression fittings are another method. The hvac industry uses a product described as snot and resembles it but in tinted colors, blue or other color. It's like a very slow setting glue to help seal threaded fittings on whole house central ac systems. Whether this product and judicious use of compression fittings work is anyone's guess but well worth a try.
I love cheap innovative fixes! I am glad to hear that this fix has held up for a couple years because I am about to try this exact thing on my 2006 Acura MDX. Was going to buy a splice kit at local car parts store but they don’t have any, so why not try this close to free solution?
I have a tiny hole in my aluminum freon pipe from rubbing against the alternator so this is exactly what I was looking for!
Wonder 💭 if Flex Seal will work on this problem 🤔
Do you ever try use aluminum heat welding rods repair your a/c line leak
i brought the splice kit but that's was a pretty good idea. i've got the same problem on my jeep. i might just give this a try and see what happens.
I did this before with a transmission fluid line that had abraded again the line beside it and left it on. Never gave any trouble.
just an idea, wouldn't it have been a good idea to wrap some maybe bike inner tube to the lines to keep them from making contact with the bracket, just a thought.
Not a bad idea, but in this case the tubes basically snap into the clamps, so it would take some modification to have them work with the increased diameter of the rubber. What I do is spray the clamps with a product called Fluid Film every few months. It penetrates and forms a corrosion resistant layer.
I can’t get anyone to even check for the leak on my 2007 T&C! I’m disabled & it’s frustrating. Thanks for your help.
I need that super sensitive Leak Detector.
No matter what it's amazing thank you
I believe the bracket caused the leak. I would have to leave it out and use tie straps.
What type of silicone did you use? Glad to hear it held up for atleast 2 years! This might save me like $1000!
Just use pure silicone, any color. It's still working for me as of MAY2021.
#jimdandy
What type of hose material it's that and where can i get some?
It's just heater hose. Pick a size with the Inside diameter about the same size as the Outside diameter of the tube. Once you split the hose check the fit. If anything you want it a bit short of going all the way around so the clamp pulls it together. Clean the tube, apply a bit of silicone to the inside of the hose for a better seal and some grip. Mine is still working well on the low pressure side 25-50psi, but not sure if it would work as well on the high pressure side, but it probably would.
I need help...
A Chrysler that my friend owns has a really weard leak, we filed the car with water to see where the leak was but nothing then we ran it for a fuew minutes to see if enithing happened nothing, so we went for a ride it went great until he trys to put it in to 3 gear and the engine shuts off it wasn't over heated or enithing so he starts it again and when he trys 3 gear again same thing, so we go back and only at the last 5 meters of driving it starts leaking really badly so we shut it down and fill it up again. No leakage!!!!! He starts the car moves it around again No leaking
Not a single drop.
Can enibody help me?
The car is a Chrysler voyager 2.5 crd diesel from 2002
I hesitate to reply as this is a weird set of symptoms and not being able to look things over really ties both hands, but the engine shutting off when put in 3rd gear is likely unrelated to the water leak.
Often times a water pump or hose will not leak much until the engine heats up and builds pressure, so this is a possibility. If you are filling the coolant system too full when it is cold it will eventually squirt out when the water gets hot and expands. Now days cars have a coolant overflow tank, but sometimes those get a hole or crack in them.
I have no ideas about the engine shutting off when shifting into 3rd gear.
Whats the name of that rubber piece?
Looks like a piece of rubber pneumatic hose or fuel line
5/8" Heater hose.
Did it hold? If so how long? Thanks. Thanks for the video.
Still holding since June of 2017 (2+ years). I've sprayed it with leak detector and no bubbles. I have not added more refrigerant. It started as a temp fix, but is now run to failure. It's on the low pressure side, which helps.
This is really sad. This leak was caused by dissimilar metals between the steel bracket and the aluminum tube. The bracket should have been made of plastic.
BRAVO!!!!!!
How it’s holding up update please?
It's holding up just fine. No Refrigerant added since and it's working great even in the hot weather. Unless something goes bad I don't have any plans to make a better fix.
would epoxy work?
I repaired mine with refrigerant still in the system, so about 15psi of pressure, so in my case, No epoxy would not have worked.
how long did this fix last - still holding up?
It's a year later and still holding. I had a refrigerant sniffer out the other day and sniffed around this hose and clamp and could not find any leak. As replacement lines are a dealer only part, in short supply, and expensive this may be the permanent fix. I think adding the small amount of silicone helped "glue" it to the pipe. I have not even tightened the hose clamp.
very cool thanks for the update! I will use this technique or similar in my own fix then if possible!
4 years and still holding!
when you change the place of the bracket why not put some rubber like your patches excuse my English from French canada
The tubes basically snap into the clamps, so it would take some modification to have them work with the increased diameter of the rubber. What I do is spray the clamps with a product called Fluid Film every year. It penetrates and forms a corrosion resistant layer.
When that piece of hose gets warm it will soften and start to leak again.
Still holding after 4 years. Heater hose works for years with 210F coolant flowing through it.
And I can't find anyone to fix it
That's what they should have done, to fix my ac, buttt...they quit on it and that's similar to all it needs.Truthfully the dealership has been more biased than the local mechanic!
I have the exact same leak up under the spare tire.
Looks like a permanent fix to me.
Maybe if you use 2 clamps and longer hose you wouldn't detect anything
cause the car manufactures were cheap and couldn't use copper tubing instead of aluminum. Going thru this now on my 2007 honda odyssey
Great video
Easy hose
i used 2 kitchen angle stops and a new copper tube..... cheap fix.....loll
Ù8
Don't do this. Lame.