Classy pair of professionals. I like how they compliment and promote each other. Everyone can learn from this, and we can all learn something from every person we come across. Thanks for the video.
The rationale provided for each method of back-buttering, WITH the demo's, provided the WHY for the right trowel and directional application.Great video. Suggest minimizing the verbal and maximizing the show and tell. Good work!
thanks guys I'm in the process of redoing a bathroom I'm almost ready for tiling I'm going to water proof with redgard water proofing agent with a mesh. the videos you have done have most likely saved me alot of grief. Thankyou very much.
Thank you so much for this video. I have tile in kitchen that is tenting and needs to be repaired. After watching Sal explain what not to do I understand now why the tiles are tenting. I'm going to use the techniques Jeff demonstrated when I redo the tiles. Thanks again. Great tips and very helpful video.
So it means that I am wright with my tiles fixing last week.. it's done great... I' m really happy for the good result.... Nice video very informative... Thank you...
You guys are awesome. Big thanks to Sal as always. Not sure if it's a big enough topic for a collab video but any ideas on installing accents that may be thinner than surrounding tile on different substrates. Thanks guys!
thicker = less working time and more change of mastic sticking together, try to keep it on the thin side but not to the point where its falling off the wall / off the tile during handling. It also depends how much you are tiling at once. His mix looks fine, maybe slightly thicker but hes doing a floor example where its not as critical and he wanted it on the thinner side to allow him to remove it multiple times.
mickbanner I’ll up you, and save 15 minutes. Use 3/8 trowel, trowel in straight lines (directional), back butter completely and also trowel directionally in same orientation as trowling on surface being tiled. Wiggle to collapse trowel lines by expelling air. Now go watch a more useful video of them actually doing an install.
Thanks for the info on the Thinset. I have kitchen, bathroom floors that have hollow void and need to be replace. What is the best why to repair any suggestions would be gladly appreciated.
Jeff your growing on me a little. Wasn’t sure about you in the first couple videos I watched probably your youth but I’m starting to soften my stance a little. Last couple videos taught even this old dog some new tricks. Not back butter and trowel stuff we knew that already.
Thank you, we do our best to share knowledge and learn from anyone. That also includes going to seminars and reading the TCNA Handbook, which isn’t scintillating but necessary
If all you are using is thin set for doing a mosaic design for a stepping stone outdoors, can you seal thin set? I know it’s recommended to seal grout but part of my design I will only be using thin set and I would like to know if I can use a sealer over it?
So is there ever a time when you would spot set tiles? Let’s say if the walls were not square? I have a fireplace walk around all 4 sides start with durarock but the walls are not square to each other...
My curbless shower base has vinyl liner extending between pan and concrete floor. Should I trim it off level to the floor or caulk it to the floor, and tile over the excess liner?
I have been watching all your videos and it has really helped me. My big question is I am ready to tile both the walls and the floor. The floor is 12" sq's but the walls are Lowes, Anatolia Tile Chiaro Tumbled Subway Mosaic Travertine Wall Tile (Common: 12-in x 12-in; Actual: 10-in x 12-in) Item # 260587 Model # 20-513 two different worlds. Which one would you do first the walls or the floors is my big question. Thanks, Tom Pittsburgh, Pa
Thanks Tom, we'd recommend tiling the floors first, that way you can hide the small gap at the wall with the wall tile. Is this a shower or are you tiling the bathroom floor and walls outside the shower. Go Steelers!
+les brinson the other thing to consider is how much adhesive is on the back of the mesh, if it's a lot the thin-set can't bond with the tile. Setting each stone by hand would be better than the tiles popping off the pan
Pros apparently spot bond, its so shit and they are the best at what they do, sadly DIY users pay pros to do tile work and then have to go back and fix it themselves. Thanks to youtube and a lot of these channels, a lot of info, a lot of time on here but its a lot clearer the simple steps that need to take place for a proper job. Thanks again for the great content.
What happens when the builder/customer you are working for doesn’t pay for the extra prep work required to do it the right way...I’ve got a huge problem with that here in Oklahoma
Explain to the consequences and show them some of the failure videos on RUclips. Sal DiBlasi has some great examples of failures over on his channel and I'd show clients those if they don't want to pay for the extra prep.
Home Repair Tutor seems easy enough, but as a tile installer that does mainly new residential my cents is null and void when it comes down to the bottom dollar...budget and time are unfortunately the main concerns with most of the builders we work for. Don’t get me wrong, they expect quality, but with a deflated price. I’ve watched a good deal of Sals videos and I notice that there is quite a bit of retail/remodel work, where there is more room for negotiations in the pricing of the job, when I have remodels I do push for better materials because usually I’m replacing something that failed in the first place so it’s easy to make comparisons on the spot.
Hopefully they listen to your suggestions, it’s hard to find good installers and you sound like a good one. Keep on plugging away and you’ll see success.
Josh Hoover A builder or whomever is paying you for a job start to finish. They say here is the tile I want, here is the square footage, give me your price. They don't outline the exact steps or installation method do they? You should build the proper methods into your price - not the GC. If you're winning bids based only on being the low bidder you're doing something wrong. Reputation, experience and references should be selling you. If you're past jobs with him are receiving minimal or no callbacks to the builder, he should be using you even if you're slightly more expensive than the cheaper guy who's probably cutting corners and generating more callbacks to the builder. You can't blame whomever is paying you for substandard work. YOU'RE the one doing the work.
What would be the best thinset to use on my 4x16 ceramic tile job . walls are 1/2 thick durock sealed with red guard . thanks in advance for your reply .
we like non-sag polymer modified thin-set like Ardex X5 for those tiles. If you have a mosaic accent then using X77 would help a lot with that part of the installation. If you can't find Ardex products try Laticrete or Mapei thin-set mortars, they're also very good.
I used a stand up trowel to spread mortar it was so easy and fast. I love using the stand-up trowel I recommend that everybody should use a stand-up trowel you can get one at shankfloortools.com
What brand of non modified mortar do you guys recommend for using with Schluter kerdi? I have seen guy recommend mapei kerabond which is a premium mortar. My issue is I cannot find a local business that sells it. Any other brands that would be a good fit. I've read that the big box store brand non modified mortars are not that great. Thx
+Eran and Aubre Barnhart yah, I use Kerabond as well. I'll have to ask Sal what he recommends. Our local mom and pop tile store carries it, none of the big box stores have Kerabond
Next question....I think I may try and special order it through a dealer locally that I found. My question is though, about how many pounds of mortar mix would a 4x4 shower take using 12x24" tiles? I dont want to short myself half way through my project and run out. The bags I would get are 25 pounds ea.
That'll depend on the size of the notched trowel and the coverage for the specific thin-set mortar. The bags typically have that on the back but if you have to special order I'd call the manufacturer and ask them as you don't want to over order but don't want to under order. Here are a few thin-sets that Sal recommends Bostik: Ditra-set Tec: Uncoupling Membrane Mortar Laticrete: 317 or 272 Mapei: Kerabond Custom: Uncoupling Mat Mortar
Why not show swirl trowled and a flat back butter? Seems like you missed that one to highlight your method. Swirl trowel will get plenty of coverage especially if you back butter and use the proper notch.
Because they want to make it seem like a bad thing, all tile youtubers ive seen do this test always do this Its really all in the back butter Completely biased
here's a link to their site, they offer both a digital and hard cover version of the Handbook www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications.html
Appreciate the video, and your point is taken. However, you need to study up on the scientific process if you are going to perform comparisons like this and expect folks to take them seriously. Each one of your examples was done differently, and you expected each to come to the same result. It doesn't really work that way. I've enjoyed your other videos, this one was disappointing.
Home Repair Tutor your video was very helpful...Thank you! As a southern speaking person, I will amused with your pronunciation of surface (sa fuss).You would be equally amused at some of my pronunciations.
I can’t believe back buttering isn’t required to all tiles 12x12 and larger. I wish you would have done directional trowel with no back buttering and looked at coverage.
back-buttering 300*300 tile??? I think it was totally unnecessary. I will not back-buttering any tile less than 800*800, I would rather spend good amount of time on surface preparation.
"Proper methods, proper procedures"... Its not like companies dont spend lots of money (with highly educated staff) figuring out what does and does not work. How some diyer or guy at home depot knows better... i have not a clue.
+TurboFlush companies do a ton of research but a lot of folks don't read thin-set directions or the TCNA handbook. And that's why we made this video. We don't claim to be gurus but we do follow best practices and work closely with Schluter, Wedi, Ardex, Mapei and other well respected companies to make quality videos.
Home Repair Tutor I totally agree.. was just reinforcing the point. There is really no where for a "mortar" company to skimp. As apposed to a vehicle manufacture that decided they could save $$ by running 4 lug nuts instead of 5. Point being...people should not try to think they know better than the instructions.
So yeah, that second part of the video is the right way to do it. For example, subfloors are not nice and flat everywhere...ever. Yeah you can tell me to get the self leveling to make it straight...it's $50 a bag and barely covers anything. If I have to price on every job I have to bid on, I will never get work. Common homeowner has no clue what's the right way and what's not. For him has to be cost effective and to look nice at the end. Also on the other hand, per the statistics, people don't stay more than 7 years on average in a house. Nothing's meant to last forever...for christ sake...10 years ago style is not the new trend anymore either. People will change their bathrooms a lot more often than it used to be 10 to 30 years ago. So yeah, you don't really need to do it same way you explained it because nobody cares after all. If you want everything to last a lifetime...start with building the whole house the right way. Also if everything lasts a lifetime, you and me won't probably have a tile job anymore. Good informative videos for DIY, but all this is just to get traffic on your channel and use it for marketing purposes after all. Not every house/project is the same.
What are you talking about? I cant tell if you are saying this is the right way or if you are saying it's wrong and to do it cheap and shitty because someone will tear it out and redo it in 5 years? Can't say doing it right is not cost effective and that the homeowners wont pay for it. If they dont like your price for doing it right walk away and take on better work.
Vlad Larion The point of doing work properly has nothing to do with people changing their bathroom every ten years. The point is taking pride in your work every time. A true craftsman takes pride in his work ,has knowledge of proper techniques and applies those proper techniques ever time. Keep doing what your doing sir your keeping me in business lmao.
this has got to be one of the most ridiculous things Ive ever heard,,I have laid miles of large format tile on all kinds of substrates using spot method with medium bed thinset and have NEVER had an issue ,,,,there is no such thing as a perfect sub floor so if you just go and trowel jobs gonna turn out crapy,,this may be ok for homowners but not for someone trying to make a living at it,,if you do it right there is no problem ,,,,tell us how you fix an uneven tile ,,, what you should be doing is a vid on these leveling systems where guys use mass amounts of lose mud then lift the tile to get it even leaving a void.,, and how does the distance between the wall/floor and back of tile create a moisture problem? PEOPLE WAKE UP !!! ,,,just because its on you tube doesn't mean its true or right ,
So you've gotten lucky for however many years you've been doing it. It's entirely possible that there have been problems and your clients have never told you, or you've been lucky. This is the RIGHT way to do it, and there are certainly methods to be used to compensate for uneven sub-floor....such as leveling compound, which would allow you to apply thin-set correctly. We charge our clients TOP dollar for the work that we do and they in return expect us to do that work the RIGHT WAY, the first time. The fact that some of us use corner cutting, time and money saving techniques to protect our profits from buying the correct amount of material, and ultimately providing a job that looks fine, functions fine, and HOPEFULLY results in no problems, or problems we can blame on numerous unrelated issues (our clients know nothing about) as opposed to our poor installation job, doesn't mean that improper installation was the correct way to go all along. We call ourselves professionals, we charge professional rates, our clients should be able to expect that their work was done in a professional manner.
Also, they specifically quote the TCNA Handbook to support their arguments. The Tile Council of North America, Inc. (TCNA) publishes industry-consensus guidelines for ceramic tile installation. Our Codes, Industry Guidelines, and Standards are in place to protect the public. If a contractor has installed something for you that ultimately fails and in investigating the failure it is found that it was not installed on these published, minimal requirements, it could ultimately effect your ability to claim damage under insurance, ultimately cost you $$$$, and could result in minor to severe injury, or even death. (Especially in regards to Electrical, Gas, and Fire and Safety Codes) You may never have any problem with a contractors crappy install, GOD BLESS, but every day you're rolling the dice, and it could take just one moment for you to regret it, and you're corner cutting contractor isn't going to be there to pay for the damage, or GOD FORBID heal the wounds. A job worth doing is a job worth doing well, that's what we get paid for.
Not saying you're wrong but the tests prove nothing. You changed the variables in every single test. -Didn't move first tile back and forth -Moved second tile back and forth -Moved third tile way more back and forth -Didn't backbutter the non-directional troweling (How do we know the direction did anything if you completely changed the test?)
Is back buttering necessary on smaller format tiles such as subway tile. I am about to remodel my bathroom and have noticed a lot instructional videos on subway tile not back buttering.
I tried to do the best coverage I could by applying a an even coat with a lg trowel on my detra all going in one direction and then back buttered the tile and troweled in the opposite direction. so I had lines horizontal on the floor and vertically on the back of the 12x24. I did not do them in the same direction because I was told to do them in the opposite direction. It has been almost 2 days of dry time due to taking two days to finish. I hope I didn't screw it all up because of the direction of the troweling .
![Tile Notch Trowel sizes. Which trowel size do you need for ....? [Full vid]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FxkS87BGUfI/mqdefault.jpg)
Classy pair of professionals. I like how they compliment and promote each other. Everyone can learn from this, and we can all learn something from every person we come across. Thanks for the video.
The rationale provided for each method of back-buttering, WITH the demo's, provided the WHY for the right trowel and directional application.Great video. Suggest minimizing the verbal and maximizing the show and tell. Good work!
Thanks Joe for the feedback
Can't please everybody. I found the explanations useful, as I am the type of person that wants to know why and how. ;)
I was tempted to be lazy and not back butter.
You changed my mind.
Thanks!
thanks guys I'm in the process of redoing a bathroom I'm almost ready for tiling I'm going to water proof with redgard water proofing agent with a mesh. the videos you have done have most likely saved me alot of grief. Thankyou very much.
glad they helped, each step in the process of a remodel has its own challenges but once you know the tips you can move along with confidence
SUPERB tutorial! Thanks for educating those who care about their work.
Thank you so much for this video. I have tile in kitchen that is tenting and needs to be repaired. After watching Sal explain what not to do I understand now why the tiles are tenting. I'm going to use the techniques Jeff demonstrated when I redo the tiles. Thanks again. Great tips and very helpful video.
Thanks Julia, hopefully your project goes smoothly with the tips :)
So it means that I am wright with my tiles fixing last week.. it's done great... I' m really happy for the good result.... Nice video very informative... Thank you...
Sal is the best tile guy around!
+Anthony Agnello 👍👍
sal is a true tile master...
Anthony Agnello he doesn't much showers not the best around
mgtow a. Gutierrez you doesn’t much English. Not best around. So please go your own way loser.
renaissanceman the response I get is I'm a loser you're a moron try explaining what I asked Kerdi Schluter sucks
You guys are awesome. Big thanks to Sal as always. Not sure if it's a big enough topic for a collab video but any ideas on installing accents that may be thinner than surrounding tile on different substrates. Thanks guys!
+Gonzo Charvel thank you and that's a great idea. I'll run it by Sal 👍
Like the video very informative. Thank you. How much thin set is needed for a ten tile replacement for a small bathroom. Not the entire gallon?
Maybe 10-15 pounds but it depends on the trowel size
thanks for the info, in the next day or two, I will be installing 18x18 with directional floor and back butter coverage. .. thanks!!
Is that how thick you normally mix your mud?????? Looks thin to me. We usually mix
ours much stiffer. Good video, people need to see this.
thicker = less working time and more change of mastic sticking together, try to keep it on the thin side but not to the point where its falling off the wall / off the tile during handling. It also depends how much you are tiling at once.
His mix looks fine, maybe slightly thicker but hes doing a floor example where its not as critical and he wanted it on the thinner side to allow him to remove it multiple times.
Sal is the man!
Flat trowel back butter then use a 3/8 trowel directional thin set . The rest is overkill unless you need to float a low tile up .
I do the same thing lol... sometimes on really large tile I use 1/2 inch
Previous owner in my house I’m at now did the tile in the shower. And it’s only 3” x 6” subway tile but he has 1/2” or so of mortar behind it all
Any tips on how to push the air out from under the tile on the last tile placed where you can move it around? Thanks
sal diblasi is a beast
he's certainly one of the best teachers on RUclips and in real life
Thanks guys !
I'll save you first 5/10 minutes. Blobs of adhesive method leaves gaps that can lead to cracks
mickbanner I’ll up you, and save 15 minutes. Use 3/8 trowel, trowel in straight lines (directional), back butter completely and also trowel directionally in same orientation as trowling on surface being tiled. Wiggle to collapse trowel lines by expelling air. Now go watch a more useful video of them actually doing an install.
Really helpful video, guys - thank you!
thank you, let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for the info on the Thinset. I have kitchen, bathroom floors that have hollow void and need to be replace. What is the best why to repair any suggestions would be gladly appreciated.
Jeff your growing on me a little. Wasn’t sure about you in the first couple videos I watched probably your youth but I’m starting to soften my stance a little. Last couple videos taught even this old dog some new tricks. Not back butter and trowel stuff we knew that already.
Thank you, we do our best to share knowledge and learn from anyone. That also includes going to seminars and reading the TCNA Handbook, which isn’t scintillating but necessary
Seen a guy do this with glass .Spot on..
thanks for all the valuable information! definitely never thought of any of these things (I've never really laid tile before, but want to)
If all you are using is thin set for doing a mosaic design for a stepping stone outdoors, can you seal thin set? I know it’s recommended to seal grout but part of my design I will only be using thin set and I would like to know if I can use a sealer over it?
Sal is the man with tile. Been watching for awhile on youtube. A true craftsman and professional!
+Fireship1 agree, and he's a great guy 👍
So is there ever a time when you would spot set tiles? Let’s say if the walls were not square? I have a fireplace walk around all 4 sides start with durarock but the walls are not square to each other...
Thank you!
Is Sturdi Flex a good thin set?
Very Informative THANKS
My curbless shower base has vinyl liner extending between pan and concrete floor. Should I trim it off level to the floor or caulk it to the floor, and tile over the excess liner?
Good job, guys! 👍
I want know how u install the barn door for the bathroom
I have been watching all your videos and it has really helped me. My big question is I am ready to tile both the walls and the floor. The floor is 12" sq's but the walls are Lowes, Anatolia Tile Chiaro Tumbled Subway Mosaic Travertine Wall Tile (Common: 12-in x 12-in; Actual: 10-in x 12-in)
Item # 260587 Model # 20-513 two different worlds. Which one would you do first the walls or the floors is my big question. Thanks, Tom
Pittsburgh, Pa
Thanks Tom, we'd recommend tiling the floors first, that way you can hide the small gap at the wall with the wall tile. Is this a shower or are you tiling the bathroom floor and walls outside the shower. Go Steelers!
Thanks.
good colab guys!
thank you, there will be more videos down the road. What would you like to see us tackle?
yeah, could you guys do a tutorial on how you guys plan a tile layout and how to set a ledger board! Thanks!
Adam Richard I'll run it by Sal, good idea. Tile layout for floor, wall, tub?
walls and tub surround! Thanks. i love both you and Sals videos!
Thanks I do the majority around edges to avoid a cut tile , but may just do the entire shower
+les brinson the other thing to consider is how much adhesive is on the back of the mesh, if it's a lot the thin-set can't bond with the tile. Setting each stone by hand would be better than the tiles popping off the pan
Pros apparently spot bond, its so shit and they are the best at what they do, sadly DIY users pay pros to do tile work and then have to go back and fix it themselves.
Thanks to youtube and a lot of these channels, a lot of info, a lot of time on here but its a lot clearer the simple steps that need to take place for a proper job.
Thanks again for the great content.
ur a dope
Bill Hamilton no one asked for your opinion ... so gfy :)
@@oneeyedrone4293 HAHAHA,, open the other eye douche bag,,mite help you see better
Great examples.
What if you have too much mortar? Is that bad?
Please tell me it's just longer drying time?
If you buttered the back of the tiles in the first two tests would the results have come out the same?
+danbiss87 hard to say, but using the right size trowel is an absolute must for coverage
Not being an expert or even a novice I think you are correct also.
What happens when the builder/customer you are working for doesn’t pay for the extra prep work required to do it the right way...I’ve got a huge problem with that here in Oklahoma
Explain to the consequences and show them some of the failure videos on RUclips. Sal DiBlasi has some great examples of failures over on his channel and I'd show clients those if they don't want to pay for the extra prep.
Home Repair Tutor seems easy enough, but as a tile installer that does mainly new residential my cents is null and void when it comes down to the bottom dollar...budget and time are unfortunately the main concerns with most of the builders we work for. Don’t get me wrong, they expect quality, but with a deflated price. I’ve watched a good deal of Sals videos and I notice that there is quite a bit of retail/remodel work, where there is more room for negotiations in the pricing of the job, when I have remodels I do push for better materials because usually I’m replacing something that failed in the first place so it’s easy to make comparisons on the spot.
Hopefully they listen to your suggestions, it’s hard to find good installers and you sound like a good one. Keep on plugging away and you’ll see success.
I can tell you as far as new construction, builders just want the house to make it past their 1-5 year warranty. Most literally do not care.
Josh Hoover A builder or whomever is paying you for a job start to finish. They say here is the tile I want, here is the square footage, give me your price. They don't outline the exact steps or installation method do they? You should build the proper methods into your price - not the GC. If you're winning bids based only on being the low bidder you're doing something wrong. Reputation, experience and references should be selling you. If you're past jobs with him are receiving minimal or no callbacks to the builder, he should be using you even if you're slightly more expensive than the cheaper guy who's probably cutting corners and generating more callbacks to the builder. You can't blame whomever is paying you for substandard work. YOU'RE the one doing the work.
What would be the best thinset to use on my 4x16 ceramic tile job . walls are 1/2 thick durock sealed with red guard . thanks in advance for your reply .
we like non-sag polymer modified thin-set like Ardex X5 for those tiles. If you have a mosaic accent then using X77 would help a lot with that part of the installation. If you can't find Ardex products try Laticrete or Mapei thin-set mortars, they're also very good.
@@HomeRepairTutor what about tiling 12" porcelain for kitchen countertops? Modified thinset?
When you lay pebble rocks is there a trick to not make it look like a grid of rocks or do you hand stick the majority of them ?
+les brinson some installers prefer to set by hand to avoid the grid pattern
Sal is the Man
+howiboy 👍
Thank you
Thank you. Should you use modified or non modified thinset over a waterproof membrane such as Elastolock?
You were a little bias, the last method you were sure to really move the tile around to make sure it set well in the thin set
You’re right but hopefully the main idea was communicated well and that’s to understand thin-set mortar and what goes into its application.
Great Video! thank you and PLEASE Take off the iWatch next time? accidents do happen even if you are skilled with thinset
I used a stand up trowel to spread mortar it was so easy and fast. I love using the stand-up trowel I recommend that everybody should use a stand-up trowel you can get one at shankfloortools.com
That procedure will work with Acrylic thin set also?
We only recommend thin-set mortar in wet areas
What if you are using subway tile?
What brand of non modified mortar do you guys recommend for using with Schluter kerdi? I have seen guy recommend mapei kerabond which is a premium mortar. My issue is I cannot find a local business that sells it. Any other brands that would be a good fit. I've read that the big box store brand non modified mortars are not that great. Thx
+Eran and Aubre Barnhart yah, I use Kerabond as well. I'll have to ask Sal what he recommends. Our local mom and pop tile store carries it, none of the big box stores have Kerabond
Next question....I think I may try and special order it through a dealer locally that I found. My question is though, about how many pounds of mortar mix would a 4x4 shower take using 12x24" tiles? I dont want to short myself half way through my project and run out. The bags I would get are 25 pounds ea.
That'll depend on the size of the notched trowel and the coverage for the specific thin-set mortar. The bags typically have that on the back but if you have to special order I'd call the manufacturer and ask them as you don't want to over order but don't want to under order. Here are a few thin-sets that Sal recommends
Bostik: Ditra-set
Tec: Uncoupling Membrane Mortar
Laticrete: 317 or 272
Mapei: Kerabond
Custom: Uncoupling Mat Mortar
Why did you make no attempt to collapse the ridges with the "incorrect" methods? Be consistent.
He didn't do a directional one without back buttering either.
Why not show swirl trowled and a flat back butter? Seems like you missed that one to highlight your method. Swirl trowel will get plenty of coverage especially if you back butter and use the proper notch.
Because they want to make it seem like a bad thing, all tile youtubers ive seen do this test always do this
Its really all in the back butter
Completely biased
What I gathered from the video, directional troweling allows air to escape when ridges are collapsed, swirl troweling does not.
Very helpful! But these weren't "quick" tips :)
Ive back buttered since I started tiling, covering the entire back of the tile.
Effective, but consumes more of both time and thinset.
finally someone that knows how to tile, not like that other guy on his channel.
I'd disagree with the last statement, we have great tutorials on tiling
where can you get the tcna book? and personally i dont double notch i find it harder to keep lippage at minimum but i do back butter all my tiles
here's a link to their site, they offer both a digital and hard cover version of the Handbook
www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications.html
I don't have a single straight wall in my house. Same as you. To show how to apply cement to the tile, it's just a joke.
Appreciate the video, and your point is taken. However, you need to study up on the scientific process if you are going to perform comparisons like this and expect folks to take them seriously. Each one of your examples was done differently, and you expected each to come to the same result. It doesn't really work that way. I've enjoyed your other videos, this one was disappointing.
U missed the point he wasn't looking for the same results
THATS ALOT GUYS!
What is a sa fuss?
SA Fuss?
Home Repair Tutor your video was very helpful...Thank you! As a southern speaking person, I will amused with your pronunciation of surface (sa fuss).You would be equally amused at some of my pronunciations.
This wow for a smart phone ya think it could do spell check. But noooo i gotta make corrections.
The first part of this video was waste of time; sorry. The second part said it all!
Agreed. Sal has several where he's just talking to the camera. That's not really what RUclips is for. Show us!
I can’t believe back buttering isn’t required to all tiles 12x12 and larger. I wish you would have done directional trowel with no back buttering and looked at coverage.
ruclips.net/video/Way5bMh-eYg/видео.html
Elite Tile is a palindrome. I like palindromes.
Yeah their logo should definitely be an ambigram
If your not back buttering tile you should not be doing tile work
Sometimes I beat the horse, just to make sure it's dead too.
back-buttering 300*300 tile??? I think it was totally unnecessary. I will not back-buttering any tile less than 800*800, I would rather spend good amount of time on surface preparation.
tony hu absolutely. prep and correct adhesive is everything. buttering is waste unless its natural stone.
I do remodels and like thos video
Thank you
If you need to cover all the ridges on the back of tile why do they make it that way.. make it flat .. da
The back buttering isn’t just to fill the voids it’s to create better bond with the thinset on the floor or wall
Yes .. but still why make tile with voids on back that need field up. Would not a flat surface be more better
Use a bigger trowel adhesive is cheap compared to rip up and relay
7:32
👏👏👏
"Proper methods, proper procedures"...
Its not like companies dont spend lots of money (with highly educated staff) figuring out what does and does not work. How some diyer or guy at home depot knows better... i have not a clue.
+TurboFlush companies do a ton of research but a lot of folks don't read thin-set directions or the TCNA handbook. And that's why we made this video. We don't claim to be gurus but we do follow best practices and work closely with Schluter, Wedi, Ardex, Mapei and other well respected companies to make quality videos.
Home Repair Tutor
I totally agree.. was just reinforcing the point.
There is really no where for a "mortar" company to skimp. As apposed to a vehicle manufacture that decided they could save $$ by running 4 lug nuts instead of 5.
Point being...people should not try to think they know better than the instructions.
A good video would be to show how you properly prepare a very uneven room both in timber frame and a brick built room
+Adam Butters 👍
Holy.... get to the point...blah blah blah..we get it..proper coverage is important.
get to the point, jeez.
9:55 listen DAD
?
At 3:17 could you fumble around any more. Jeez dude. Y'all could have saved us tons of time by saying Read the instructions. Smh.
Almost positive you both smoked a J in the begining
Now that you mention it, I think you are exactly right!
So yeah, that second part of the video is the right way to do it. For example, subfloors are not nice and flat everywhere...ever.
Yeah you can tell me to get the self leveling to make it straight...it's $50 a bag and barely covers anything.
If I have to price on every job I have to bid on, I will never get work. Common homeowner has no clue what's the right way and what's not. For him has to be cost effective and to look nice at the end.
Also on the other hand, per the statistics, people don't stay more than 7 years on average in a house. Nothing's meant to last forever...for christ sake...10 years ago style is not the new trend anymore either. People will change their bathrooms a lot more often than it used to be 10 to 30 years ago. So yeah, you don't really need to do it same way you explained it because nobody cares after all.
If you want everything to last a lifetime...start with building the whole house the right way.
Also if everything lasts a lifetime, you and me won't probably have a tile job anymore.
Good informative videos for DIY, but all this is just to get traffic on your channel and use it for marketing purposes after all. Not every house/project is the same.
What are you talking about? I cant tell if you are saying this is the right way or if you are saying it's wrong and to do it cheap and shitty because someone will tear it out and redo it in 5 years? Can't say doing it right is not cost effective and that the homeowners wont pay for it. If they dont like your price for doing it right walk away and take on better work.
Vlad Larion The point of doing work properly has nothing to do with people changing their bathroom every ten years. The point is taking pride in your work every time. A true craftsman takes pride in his work ,has knowledge of proper techniques and applies those proper techniques ever time. Keep doing what your doing sir your keeping me in business lmao.
fake news
lol, ask Sal how fake this is
Juan Monroy
fake news u dont need Jesus Christ...
Michael Quintana your just stupid.
A minute and a half just repetitive "here's what we are going to cover". Get to it already
I need to set 6 24x24 ceramic tiles onto hardybacker on a floor with no exposed grout lines... what should I do ?
Stephen, are you saying there are no grout joints?
Home Repair Tutor yes they are a decorative tile laid out in front of a fireplace and but up against each other
Hmm, we always recommend grout joints
Home Repair Tutor so if I add a thing grout joint what is the best way to make sure these tiles don't end up coming off
stephen frank j
Thank you!
this has got to be one of the most ridiculous things Ive ever heard,,I have laid miles of large format tile on all kinds of substrates using spot method with medium bed thinset and have NEVER had an issue ,,,,there is no such thing as a perfect sub floor so if you just go and trowel jobs gonna turn out crapy,,this may be ok for homowners but not for someone trying to make a living at it,,if you do it right there is no problem ,,,,tell us how you fix an uneven tile ,,, what you should be doing is a vid on these leveling systems where guys use mass amounts of lose mud then lift the tile to get it even leaving a void.,, and how does the distance between the wall/floor and back of tile create a moisture problem? PEOPLE WAKE UP !!! ,,,just because its on you tube doesn't mean its true or right ,
So you've gotten lucky for however many years you've been doing it. It's entirely possible that there have been problems and your clients have never told you, or you've been lucky. This is the RIGHT way to do it, and there are certainly methods to be used to compensate for uneven sub-floor....such as leveling compound, which would allow you to apply thin-set correctly. We charge our clients TOP dollar for the work that we do and they in return expect us to do that work the RIGHT WAY, the first time. The fact that some of us use corner cutting, time and money saving techniques to protect our profits from buying the correct amount of material, and ultimately providing a job that looks fine, functions fine, and HOPEFULLY results in no problems, or problems we can blame on numerous unrelated issues (our clients know nothing about) as opposed to our poor installation job, doesn't mean that improper installation was the correct way to go all along. We call ourselves professionals, we charge professional rates, our clients should be able to expect that their work was done in a professional manner.
Also, they specifically quote the TCNA Handbook to support their arguments. The Tile Council of North America, Inc. (TCNA) publishes industry-consensus guidelines for ceramic tile installation. Our Codes, Industry Guidelines, and Standards are in place to protect the public. If a contractor has installed something for you that ultimately fails and in investigating the failure it is found that it was not installed on these published, minimal requirements, it could ultimately effect your ability to claim damage under insurance, ultimately cost you $$$$, and could result in minor to severe injury, or even death. (Especially in regards to Electrical, Gas, and Fire and Safety Codes) You may never have any problem with a contractors crappy install, GOD BLESS, but every day you're rolling the dice, and it could take just one moment for you to regret it, and you're corner cutting contractor isn't going to be there to pay for the damage, or GOD FORBID heal the wounds. A job worth doing is a job worth doing well, that's what we get paid for.
@@michaelprimeau4900 your an idiot,,,
Not saying you're wrong but the tests prove nothing. You changed the variables in every single test.
-Didn't move first tile back and forth
-Moved second tile back and forth
-Moved third tile way more back and forth
-Didn't backbutter the non-directional troweling (How do we know the direction did anything if you completely changed the test?)
I'd like to see a test where they only backbutter. No thinset on the substrate.
Books
Steelers baby!!!
Thank you Jeff for inviting Sal, the best tile guy.
Sal is pretty awesome, we're pretty excited to work with him. We're exploring topics for the next video...anything you'd like to see?
I would like to see you and Sal do a collaboration on a walking bathroom shower and the best waterproofing method.
keep up the great work guys.
+Lou Valerio thank you, hope it was helpful 👍
do you have to backbutter thinset on the tile in the same direction as the thinset on the wall?
first 1:45 of the video,....... we're going to talk about x... next 1:30 we're going to
talk about x. my God get to the point.
Back butter is also very helpful to avoid lippage gives you added room for manipulation
yes, very true
Thank God for the next guy. Jesus!!
You guys are awesome!!!
Is back buttering necessary on smaller format tiles such as subway tile. I am about to remodel my bathroom and have noticed a lot instructional videos on subway tile not back buttering.
greenewater26 Just do it. What do you lose?
@@crunch9876 time and thin$et.
Flat trowel the substrate, add more mud, use directional trowel, set your tile and move on
300mm and bigger i back butter. 12mm trowel all the way
I tried to do the best coverage I could by applying a an even coat with a lg trowel on my detra all going in one direction and then back buttered the tile and troweled in the opposite direction. so I had lines horizontal on the floor and vertically on the back of the 12x24. I did not do them in the same direction because I was told to do them in the opposite direction. It has been almost 2 days of dry time due to taking two days to finish. I hope I didn't screw it all up because of the direction of the troweling .