We need more klipper resources like this. Such a great video! Quick tip: There's an easy way to calculate rotation_distance for most things. Take a belt driven axis for example. Let's assume we're using a 20T 2GT pulley. The pitch of the belt teeth is 2mm, and we have 20 teeth so 1 full rotation of the stepper motor will give us 2mm * 20 = 40mm of movement per rotation (our rotation_distance). We can also do leadscrews the same way. TR8*8 leadscrews have a lead of 8mm which means for 1 full rotation of the stepper we'll get 8mm of movement, so rotation_distance = 8. This is fairly straight forward for most printers, until you start introducing gears (like in extruders), klipper has a gear_ratio to help with that, but i find it more confusing then helpful :D The nice thing about rotation_distance is that it is independent from microstepping or stepper angle which can there for be set without changing the rotation_distance, very nice when swapping 1.8 stepper for 0.9's for example, less confusing math! :)
I’ve always enjoyed your step by step technique when showing these complex processes. You have a great way of not making it seem like it’s for advanced users only. I’m very tech-capable, but I imagine this step by step process is really empowering to users that have never done this before (SSH, SCP, etc.) Keep doing what you do! Love the content.
Absolutely incredible walk-through. Thank you! My FLSUN SR arrives in two days and this has been invaluable to feel more prepared cutting over to Klipper from the get-go.
This is yet another amazing video by Michael showing the community how to do things and find resources you need, when there aren't any "defaults" or maybe not any existing templates. I love how simple and available you make this information. Instant Patreon.
I ordered a flsun super racer, I haven't even received it yet and I already bought a new extruder, capricorn tubing, double bearing fans, downloaded new vents stl files, and I never ever used 3D PRINTER but that's how confident I feel over this delta printer. I wasn't sure about a raspberry Pi to make it wireless, but I do see that even if I don't use it for the wireless it gives it more stability.... so now I want to go Pi on my raspberry printer.... lol..... great video, I'll come back to it once I get my hands on the printer and the Pi.
Very thorough video. This moves me one step closer to thinking about putting Klipper on my E3Pro. Thanks as always for the great content. Always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Just recently converted my ender extender SKR E3 with BlTouch to klipper using a $10 raspberry pi zero. Took a few hours of fine tuning, but everything worked out of the box with an example config. The best part? It only uses a four wire Dupont connection. The pi gets it's power from the board itself! Used a video from Nero 3DP as a guide. Supper happy with the switch and the ease of making changes to the config 👍 no longer need to recompile and mess around with eh SD card for every change
I don't know how you don't have more subscribers. Your videos are so good. You put a lot of work into them and they are very easy to follow and offer so much information. I rarely subscribe to someone but with you I subbed so fast. Very high quality videos and information. Thank you so much for making my life easier!
Good video, I am not sure if I can do this or not. I will watch the video a couple more times to see if my old brane can get around the concepts or not. JTLYK you are one of my favorite RUclips GuRus on 3D printing. keep up the good work.
I was recommended to switch my FLSUN SR to Klipper. As a complete beginner... This is rather intimidating. This seems like a great guide, maybe a bit much for me right now haha
Nice guide. I'm already using Klipper, but I have a fair amount of problems with different slicers. Maybe you could make a follow-up video explaining how Klipper and various slicers communicate? Especially things like passing bed and nozzle temperatures and layer progression / shift from one layer to another.
I have OctKliper running beautifully now on the CR10 Max which you will see in a future video. On the SR I'll probably run a 12864 LCD since I need to show how to set that up for the video.
It is actually way more simpler than Marlin. For anyone that isn't a programmer, or doesn't have a programming background, it is way easier to just edit a text file with configurations than to understand what you have to change on C source code to make a printer work.
I was really hoping you would go over setting up (U)(A)BL on the delta. That has been the biggest pain and failure for me being able to use Klipper on my custom delta. I wasn't even trying to use a BL Touch because that has been a huge headache whether on Marlin or Klipper on a SKR 1.3. Just a simple button z probe and the printer would go completely crazy when I would try to start probing. Any advice?
I already had OctoPrint running, so that may be the cause of the problem. But it was updated as far as the UI told me to do. But I needed to 'sudo apt update --allow-releaseinfo-change' before i could run the install script because buster changed it release from 'stable' to 'oldstable'. I'm pretty novice at linux and don't know how to handle problems there, but good ol' friend google helped me here. ;-)
Decided to give Klipper a try (I have marlin/octopi backed up in case I don't like it). Do you have any thoughts on OctoKlipperPi? You can find it under OctoPi in the Raspberry Pi Imager. According to their GitHub, it was released in October 2021, after you made this video, and it seems to install Klipper and Octopi at the same time, so I'm going to give it a go. I really enjoy all of your videos, keep up the good work! ETA: It looks like you may have done so, but it's worth mentioning that you can set the SSH password in the Raspberry Pi Imager settings as well pre-flash.
Not something 8m ever going to do, but still a great video. And as for those thumbs down WTF? Haters gonna hate, but they’re to gutless to leave a comment.
Maybe this can help revive the CR-10 Smart? If the software experience on that printer got fixed, it'd be good value for the money with the hardware you get.
That Creality Cloud board inside the Smart can run Klipper too. Not sure how well it can run Klipper, I havnt really looked into it much, but someone did port it to the box.
Thanks, good stuff. It'd be cool if you did a video on multi-instance Klipper with OctoPrint. I'd be interested in knowing how many instances can be run since Klipper, I assume, uses a fair bit of resources and what the bottleneck is CPU or RAM.
I converted my old FLSUN QQ with a MKS GEN L board a while ago after I was have no reliable bed leveling success. With klipper I have been getting reliable results. So, it will run until too many things fail and it needs to be replaced. LOL
I have a flsun qq-s. I have marlin on it from the community. This might be a good option because I have a issue with bed level with the stock flsun prob.
Will there be a sequel to this video with input shaper and pressure advange? I am very curious if this is possible with this printer and if this will really be an upgrade
Hi Michael, does the update to the Raspberry Pi loader to include an OS image specifically for OctoPi Klipper remove the need to do the second part of your Pi setup in this video? I am busy trying to resurrect a CR-X that has had a MicroSwiss NG direct drive installed on it and thought that Klipper would be a good idea ... rushing ahead on the assumption that the newer version has all the bits needed already!
Great stuff Michael...I went the sonic pad route which was pretty painless...until I wanted to compile the LPC176X stuff which it just hangs. Im converting a lot of my old deltas (which I still prefer) and all of them have MKS 1.3 smoothie...I have looked but cant find a precompiled LPC1768 around...any ideas?
The glass bed is flat so assuming the firmware has mapped the delta parameters accurately (which it seems to have) I haven't needed it. The upcoming mods to this printer will require a permanently mounted ABL sensor so I will be fitting a type of probe I haven't tried before.
Hmmm. I've been tossing up the idea of converting my ATOM 2.0 to klipper as i'm really over its lagy and none responsive User Interface whenever a print is running. To get me by until i can build a VORON 2.4. Maybe.
I see this video is two years old. Any input on some of the newer boards that take a raspberry pi compute module? I'm thinking of trying a BTT Manta M4P with a orange pi 8GB compute module in place of the pi with 64GB eMMC over an sd card on this SR Racer. Any thoughts on this?
haha, I turned my QQ-S into an SR, now printing 250mm/s with duet3d and reprap, and super calibrated for petg, printing parts for my next printer with 5hp servo motors ! cheap 200 dollar printer + 80 dollar mods and some screws turned into a factory to produce a super high quality speed-machine !
Great video man. I am looking at getting one of these printers. A while ago you did a video on swapping the board of a monoprice mini delta with a big tree tech bord. I have one of these boards lying around from an old ender 3. do you think there is any point in installing the board in the flsun SR? can it be done? or is the board in them the same spec?
Thanks Michael for an inspirational video. Can Klipper work with MAC?. If so what is the alternative to the WIN program. I have a FLSUN Q5 running on octoprint successfully. Cheers from locked down Sydney
Klipper runs on the 3d printer controller board and on the Raspberry Pi*, those Windows programs are just to interface with the RPi's Linux OS. You can use any SSH/SFTP program available on Mac to do the same things. * You can actually use any computer running Linux (easier) or any other OS that runs Python 2.7 (harder) to run the computer portion of Klipper, using a Raspberry Pi is just more convenient.
I'm sorry this is off topic but I don't know where else to go. My super racer nozzle scrapes the top of prints and at around 15 CMS it really rams into prints until it rips them off the print bed. It's not a layer adhesion issue because I can hear a sharp crack when it does this and I can't dislodge the prints unless I let the bed cool first. I've increased the z hop to 2 mm, enabled / disabled combing, retraction and also set the extruder to 70 % at which point it is really under extruding, yet it consistently snaps prints. I can't get a response back from flsun. I'd really appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps.
I have Klipper on my FLsun SR just like yours, and when I go to do just a Delta calibrate, the nozzle just drags on the plate. Absolutely nothing I change is making a difference. Beyond frustrating
This video inspired me tro try and get Klipper going on my modified Ender 6. Almost there. Next step is to sort the kinematics out as on Marlin I rand the Ender 6 as a CoreYX and now in Klipper I don't have that option.
@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael. I got it working and am busy tuning my setup. Did my first 12hr print of a FAB365 Enterprise model to see how the tuning is progressimg. So far I am really enjoying the Klipper experience.
Nice!! thank you! great job as usual!!! When you will make a tuto for step/mm calibration for a Delta printer? with Klipper it's easy but with marlin it's terrible! :p best regard
In the process of doing a full diy build of the RatRig v-core3 500mm. However I also have an old Da Vinci 1.0a with their horrendous locked filament system. So I am going to do a full brain transplant in it and give Klipper a go on it. Any suggestions?
I hope you see this: I went to your config for the FLSun SR and it says it's been updated for a belt bed. Can it still be used with a stock SR?
3 года назад
After a couple of years seating untouched, I've brought back my Ender 3 v1 back to life. It already has the Creality 4.2.2 32 bit board and I'm willing to try Klipper. Is there by any chance you Michael have the config file for that model?
Please do a comparison between klipper vs skr 2.0 using marlin on the flsun SR And answer the question ❓ Is it because skr 1.3 to slow for a delta or it is the firmware which is holding the full potential on this delta
Do you know if Lerdge K board is compatible with Klipper firmware? I have a very well build closed full metal printer running on Lerdge K board and i would like to try Klipper on it. The printer has a Raspberry 4 attached to it with Octoprint but i dont know if its possible to modify the Lerdge firmware for Klipper since its a closed system
By the way, you can use Bitvise SSH (free for non commercial) instead of putty + winscp which has both terminal and STFP combined and its easier to use also supporting direct edit of files on host machine
to be fair, winscp supports direct edit of text files and the ability to send terminal commands as well. with that said, I did check out bitvise and it looks nice. I'll be giving it a try.
I have a sapphire plus with MKS robin nano v1.2, followed klipper documentation however, stuck when executing "make", (Error: arm-none-eabi-gcc: not found scons: [main.o] Error 127)
@@TeachingTech Hey, Micheal. I appreciate the reply. Klipper uses the Pi as primary motion controller, right? So what does it send to the printer's mainboard via usb if not step/dir info that then gets fed to the stepper drivers? I was referring to actual (integrated) servos, which don't need external drivers, let alone the og stepper drivers, only 0-0.5v low and 3.5-24v high signals for steps and direction. So I have no use for stepper drivers, high current FETs and the boards heater circuit. The Pi should have enough I/O to connect temp sensors and SSRs for the heating elements. The step/dir pins on the printer mainboard seem to be 3.3v or lower just like on the Pi, so I'll need a logic level shifter either way. I just finished sourcing the parts for my first diy printer, a fully servo driven core-x/y. I still have an ethernet cnc motion controller lying around from an abandoned project, so theoretically I could use Mach3 on my laptop to control it ... but using a $600 controller + laptop + mach3 license just to make a printer move seems a bit overkill ... a single Pi would be much more reasonable and convenient. But my specific use case might be a bit too far outside the scope of this tutorial.
This may be a stupid question, as I've only just slightly dabbled in rPi/octoprint, but... why has no one made a shield for the rPi that contains all the usual inputs/outputs a 3D printer needs? I see so, so many videos where the 'solution' is essentially: the entire brains of the 3D printer mainboard are ignored and the rPi does all the heavy lifting, sending serial/gcode commands to the mainboard which acts more like a breakout board for access to the steppers, heater, thermistor, etc. Is there some fundamental reason why a 'generic' board can't be made with all these inputs and outputs, without the added cost of 32-bit brains, built in the shape of a shield for the rPi?
I already have a video on such a board: ruclips.net/video/5bIzcA8PBgY/видео.html I guess one of the advantages of Klipper is that you can add a pi to your existing hardware without mucking around with wiring. Such boards require spending money on a pi and the board.
@@TeachingTech Oh that's brilliant! I only found recently and I haven't gone through your backlog of videos yet, but this looks like a very good watch. Thanks for the explanation, that certainly makes sense!
There was a 3d printer board on Kickstarter that combined it with a connector for a Raspberry Pi 4 Compute Module. Unfortunately it didn't succeed. Also, modding printers like this isn't exactly beginner's stuff, truth be told. There's no way around it than to take your time to learn things.
The best I've come across is the Rat Rig V-core 3 which has a pi image with EVERYTHING already setup. Fluidd, Klipper, printer.cfg, macros, etc ruclips.net/video/8B12D_D1i0s/видео.html
I'm gonna guess this will end up going nowhere but I was going through the calibration of this (specifically the levelling process) and it warns me that it's gone out of bounds and stops and I can't progress on about the 3rd or 4th point (I forget now). Using the same config on the same printer. Any ideas or tips anyone?
The only time I've ever had a corrupted sd card was a house wide blackout. I consider that unlucky as I have multiple Pis running constantly with multiple expected black outs and it's only happened once.
Google the board and you will see the processor is listed: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002074259790.html Select the matching option in the makeconfig UI.
I run into the wall when you use windows only applications like WinSCP to compile the software. There is no useful PuTTY for Apple computers that I can find.
bloody hell 🤯🤯 I cant work out what to buy as a first printer and what you guys do confuses the s%*t out of me, if sellers of printers buy then and then sell on why has no one set up a chain that does all this so when said printer arrives the machines work like a dream, I glad there are really tec clever people about 👍👍, when i can finally pull the trigger on a printer i would be worried to hell of changing something and it blows up 🤭
Hello. I was wondering if you could help me out. I recently got the ender extender kit for the 500mm z-axis and i need to update the firmware. I followed your marlin editing tutorial and ran into a problem the my engineering teacher, IT teacher, and reddit haven't been able to help me with. I know I'm asking for your help for free but j was wondering if you had the firmware for the ender 3 with the 500mm z-axis. I've been trying to fix the problem for a week now and I haven't had any luck. I have a part that i wanted to print but without the new firmware i can't. If you could help me I'd really appreciate it.
Download the source code for Marlin on the official Github repository, download the example Ender 3 (I suppose) config files, open Configuration.h, file the line that says #define Z_MAX_POS and change the number on the side to your current Z axis height, save the file, compile the firmware, install firmware on Ender 3 (have you installed a bootloader on it first? If not, you'll need to do that before changing Marlin). Or install Klipper and just change a text file configuration.
@@vinnycordeiro i followed his beginner's guide exactly but it said there was a problem with the gcc. Which is why it wouldn't compile. The only thing i don't have is the boot loader.
We need more klipper resources like this. Such a great video!
Quick tip: There's an easy way to calculate rotation_distance for most things. Take a belt driven axis for example. Let's assume we're using a 20T 2GT pulley. The pitch of the belt teeth is 2mm, and we have 20 teeth so 1 full rotation of the stepper motor will give us 2mm * 20 = 40mm of movement per rotation (our rotation_distance). We can also do leadscrews the same way. TR8*8 leadscrews have a lead of 8mm which means for 1 full rotation of the stepper we'll get 8mm of movement, so rotation_distance = 8. This is fairly straight forward for most printers, until you start introducing gears (like in extruders), klipper has a gear_ratio to help with that, but i find it more confusing then helpful :D
The nice thing about rotation_distance is that it is independent from microstepping or stepper angle which can there for be set without changing the rotation_distance, very nice when swapping 1.8 stepper for 0.9's for example, less confusing math! :)
I’ve always enjoyed your step by step technique when showing these complex processes.
You have a great way of not making it seem like it’s for advanced users only. I’m very tech-capable, but I imagine this step by step process is really empowering to users that have never done this before (SSH, SCP, etc.)
Keep doing what you do! Love the content.
Thanks very much, that is the aim :)
Absolutely incredible walk-through. Thank you! My FLSUN SR arrives in two days and this has been invaluable to feel more prepared cutting over to Klipper from the get-go.
Mine will be here tomorrow this is really helpful
This is yet another amazing video by Michael showing the community how to do things and find resources you need, when there aren't any "defaults" or maybe not any existing templates. I love how simple and available you make this information. Instant Patreon.
I ordered a flsun super racer, I haven't even received it yet and I already bought a new extruder, capricorn tubing, double bearing fans, downloaded new vents stl files, and I never ever used 3D PRINTER but that's how confident I feel over this delta printer. I wasn't sure about a raspberry Pi to make it wireless, but I do see that even if I don't use it for the wireless it gives it more stability.... so now I want to go Pi on my raspberry printer.... lol..... great video, I'll come back to it once I get my hands on the printer and the Pi.
Very thorough video. This moves me one step closer to thinking about putting Klipper on my E3Pro. Thanks as always for the great content. Always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Good stuff. I converted my printers over to Klipper some time ago and haven't looked back.
Just recently converted my ender extender SKR E3 with BlTouch to klipper using a $10 raspberry pi zero.
Took a few hours of fine tuning, but everything worked out of the box with an example config.
The best part? It only uses a four wire Dupont connection. The pi gets it's power from the board itself! Used a video from Nero 3DP as a guide.
Supper happy with the switch and the ease of making changes to the config 👍 no longer need to recompile and mess around with eh SD card for every change
I don't know how you don't have more subscribers. Your videos are so good. You put a lot of work into them and they are very easy to follow and offer so much information. I rarely subscribe to someone but with you I subbed so fast. Very high quality videos and information. Thank you so much for making my life easier!
Thanks very much. This video is one of my least popular in a long time but it's about putting out a resource to help people so I don't mind.
@@TeachingTech I'm currently building 5 kossels so it's a lot of help to me!
Good video, I am not sure if I can do this or not. I will watch the video a couple more times to see if my old brane can get around the concepts or not. JTLYK you are one of my favorite RUclips GuRus on 3D printing. keep up the good work.
I got my Anet A8+ running on a Ender 3, 8bit silent main board with that running klipper such that I can use a BLtouch. Works like a charm!!
I was recommended to switch my FLSUN SR to Klipper.
As a complete beginner... This is rather intimidating.
This seems like a great guide, maybe a bit much for me right now haha
I am in the middel of my first corexy klipper build, so this comes at a perfect time👍
Nice guide.
I'm already using Klipper, but I have a fair amount of problems with different slicers.
Maybe you could make a follow-up video explaining how Klipper and various slicers communicate?
Especially things like passing bed and nozzle temperatures and layer progression / shift from one layer to another.
Thanks Michael, excellent resource for when I get around to trying Klipper on one of my machines.
Thanks for this - I am about to try to switch from RRF to Klipper on my SK-Tank, and this will save me quite a bit of work.
Thank you so much for these tutorials! I can't wait to see what this printer is actually capable of with Klipper finely tuned!
Thank you for an awesome vid. The config and calibrate sections were extremely helpful.
A good introduction to conversion, thank you! I have all the parts to my Flsun QQ-S, no excuse now!
I would love to see an updated video considering this is 3 years old. Still a great vid super helpful
cant wait for cr-10 max video. I got klipper on my SR and it works great.
I put klipper on my cr10S5, and that big thing has no business moving like it does with the quality it has now lol
This is really cool. I didn't understand any of it....but it sounds good.
Looking forward to the screen options!
I have OctKliper running beautifully now on the CR10 Max which you will see in a future video. On the SR I'll probably run a 12864 LCD since I need to show how to set that up for the video.
Klipper looks pretty daunting!
It is actually way more simpler than Marlin. For anyone that isn't a programmer, or doesn't have a programming background, it is way easier to just edit a text file with configurations than to understand what you have to change on C source code to make a printer work.
I was really hoping you would go over setting up (U)(A)BL on the delta. That has been the biggest pain and failure for me being able to use Klipper on my custom delta. I wasn't even trying to use a BL Touch because that has been a huge headache whether on Marlin or Klipper on a SKR 1.3. Just a simple button z probe and the printer would go completely crazy when I would try to start probing. Any advice?
I already had OctoPrint running, so that may be the cause of the problem. But it was updated as far as the UI told me to do.
But I needed to 'sudo apt update --allow-releaseinfo-change' before i could run the install script because buster changed it release from 'stable' to 'oldstable'.
I'm pretty novice at linux and don't know how to handle problems there, but good ol' friend google helped me here. ;-)
oh my gosh! what are the chances!? This is the exact printer I am going to be doing this to
greate video! can I have STL for bracket mounting Pi and the board? And does it have version for Robin Nano V3 board
Would like to see you do a RRF conversion (inc the LPC mod for non-duet boards) at some point. Especially as it now also supports input shaping.
I'm about a year ahead of you: ruclips.net/video/Mw-Gg3y__Go/видео.html
On the input shaping, I definitely will be trying and comparing it.
@@TeachingTech thanks, must have missed the that one!
Decided to give Klipper a try (I have marlin/octopi backed up in case I don't like it). Do you have any thoughts on OctoKlipperPi? You can find it under OctoPi in the Raspberry Pi Imager. According to their GitHub, it was released in October 2021, after you made this video, and it seems to install Klipper and Octopi at the same time, so I'm going to give it a go. I really enjoy all of your videos, keep up the good work!
ETA: It looks like you may have done so, but it's worth mentioning that you can set the SSH password in the Raspberry Pi Imager settings as well pre-flash.
Not something 8m ever going to do, but still a great video. And as for those thumbs down WTF? Haters gonna hate, but they’re to gutless to leave a comment.
Maybe this can help revive the CR-10 Smart? If the software experience on that printer got fixed, it'd be good value for the money with the hardware you get.
That Creality Cloud board inside the Smart can run Klipper too. Not sure how well it can run Klipper, I havnt really looked into it much, but someone did port it to the box.
@@jon9947 Oh that would've been good to know before I gutted out that useless board lol. I'm ok with using a Pi.
perfect timing Michaeal, my FlSun Q5 needs def. better Firmware as the Stock.
Thanks, good stuff. It'd be cool if you did a video on multi-instance Klipper with OctoPrint. I'd be interested in knowing how many instances can be run since Klipper, I assume, uses a fair bit of resources and what the bottleneck is CPU or RAM.
I converted my old FLSUN QQ with a MKS GEN L board a while ago after I was have no reliable bed leveling success. With klipper I have been getting reliable results. So, it will run until too many things fail and it needs to be replaced. LOL
QUESTION: how do you mitigate if a power outage occurs? is there a way to resume the print? if so how?
I have a flsun qq-s. I have marlin on it from the community. This might be a good option because I have a issue with bed level with the stock flsun prob.
Wieder mal ein TOP Video ! 👌🏻
Thanks much @ Michael.
Hast du ein Video für das neue SKR2 Board mit REV_B version? 😊
Will there be a sequel to this video with input shaper and pressure advange? I am very curious if this is possible with this printer and if this will really be an upgrade
Nice! What FLSUN SR modifications do you have coming up? And when are they coming?
Thank you - nice Tutorial 👍
Incrível! Sou fã de seu trabalho!
Hi Michael, does the update to the Raspberry Pi loader to include an OS image specifically for OctoPi Klipper remove the need to do the second part of your Pi setup in this video? I am busy trying to resurrect a CR-X that has had a MicroSwiss NG direct drive installed on it and thought that Klipper would be a good idea ... rushing ahead on the assumption that the newer version has all the bits needed already!
Thanks Michael, I'll use this once I get my SR. Why did you not set up the autolevel probe?
Haven't required it so far. The delta parameters are mapped accurately and the bed is flat.
Great stuff Michael...I went the sonic pad route which was pretty painless...until I wanted to compile the LPC176X stuff which it just hangs. Im converting a lot of my old deltas (which I still prefer) and all of them have MKS 1.3 smoothie...I have looked but cant find a precompiled LPC1768 around...any ideas?
Why not use the probe?? Great info on Klipper!
The glass bed is flat so assuming the firmware has mapped the delta parameters accurately (which it seems to have) I haven't needed it. The upcoming mods to this printer will require a permanently mounted ABL sensor so I will be fitting a type of probe I haven't tried before.
Hmmm. I've been tossing up the idea of converting my ATOM 2.0 to klipper as i'm really over its lagy and none responsive User Interface whenever a print is running. To get me by until i can build a VORON 2.4. Maybe.
I see this video is two years old. Any input on some of the newer boards that take a raspberry pi compute module? I'm thinking of trying a BTT Manta M4P with a orange pi 8GB compute module in place of the pi with 64GB eMMC over an sd card on this SR Racer.
Any thoughts on this?
haha, I turned my QQ-S into an SR, now printing 250mm/s with duet3d and reprap, and super calibrated for petg, printing parts for my next printer with 5hp servo motors ! cheap 200 dollar printer + 80 dollar mods and some screws turned into a factory to produce a super high quality speed-machine !
Great video man. I am looking at getting one of these printers. A while ago you did a video on swapping the board of a monoprice mini delta with a big tree tech bord. I have one of these boards lying around from an old ender 3. do you think there is any point in installing the board in the flsun SR? can it be done? or is the board in them the same spec?
Why is it not possible to compile klipper on the pc?
is a bit mixed up and not user-friendly😐😣
Thanks Michael for an inspirational video. Can Klipper work with MAC?. If so what is the alternative to the WIN program. I have a FLSUN Q5 running on octoprint successfully. Cheers from locked down Sydney
Klipper runs on the 3d printer controller board and on the Raspberry Pi*, those Windows programs are just to interface with the RPi's Linux OS. You can use any SSH/SFTP program available on Mac to do the same things.
* You can actually use any computer running Linux (easier) or any other OS that runs Python 2.7 (harder) to run the computer portion of Klipper, using a Raspberry Pi is just more convenient.
So the octoprint burning program (or etcher) both have mac versions. You don't need Putty if using a mac, you can SSH into the RPI in the terminal.
How did you run your wire loom for the accelerometer on super racer?
I'm sorry this is off topic but I don't know where else to go. My super racer nozzle scrapes the top of prints and at around 15 CMS it really rams into prints until it rips them off the print bed. It's not a layer adhesion issue because I can hear a sharp crack when it does this and I can't dislodge the prints unless I let the bed cool first.
I've increased the z hop to 2 mm, enabled / disabled combing, retraction and also set the extruder to 70 % at which point it is really under extruding, yet it consistently snaps prints. I can't get a response back from flsun. I'd really appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps.
Was the FLSun SR firmware removed? I have the same printer and wanted to mess around with your config. Thanks!
I have Klipper on my FLsun SR just like yours, and when I go to do just a Delta calibrate, the nozzle just drags on the plate. Absolutely nothing I change is making a difference. Beyond frustrating
Can a standard PC can be use instead of the Raspberry Pi ?
Thanks for the tuto.
Hi,
SKR 2 is working with clipper and raspberry?
Tahnks.
This video inspired me tro try and get Klipper going on my modified Ender 6. Almost there. Next step is to sort the kinematics out as on Marlin I rand the Ender 6 as a CoreYX and now in Klipper I don't have that option.
Klipper absolutely supports coreXY. I'd say start with the coreXY config and convert pins as I did in this video.
@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael. I got it working and am busy tuning my setup. Did my first 12hr print of a FAB365 Enterprise model to see how the tuning is progressimg. So far I am really enjoying the Klipper experience.
Nice!! thank you! great job as usual!!!
When you will make a tuto for step/mm calibration for a Delta printer?
with Klipper it's easy but with marlin it's terrible! :p
best regard
Great video!
In the process of doing a full diy build of the RatRig v-core3 500mm. However I also have an old Da Vinci 1.0a with their horrendous locked filament system. So I am going to do a full brain transplant in it and give Klipper a go on it. Any suggestions?
shia-labeouf-do-it.gif
You should be able to use any mainboard you have lying around, or whatever is cheap and has enough IO pins to handle the Da Vinci hardware.
After checks and manual delta calibration the nozzle skims the bed. I’ve run through calibration 3 times and no change. Any advice?
my FLSUN SR use robin nano V3 board so that cable cant fit it ineed usb to usb not micro usb !! right ?
Great detailed video thx,
I hope you see this: I went to your config for the FLSun SR and it says it's been updated for a belt bed. Can it still be used with a stock SR?
After a couple of years seating untouched, I've brought back my Ender 3 v1 back to life. It already has the Creality 4.2.2 32 bit board and I'm willing to try Klipper. Is there by any chance you Michael have the config file for that model?
Please do a comparison between klipper vs skr 2.0 using marlin on the flsun SR
And answer the question ❓
Is it because skr 1.3 to slow for a delta or it is the firmware which is holding the full potential on this delta
Do you know if Lerdge K board is compatible with Klipper firmware? I have a very well build closed full metal printer running on Lerdge K board and i would like to try Klipper on it. The printer has a Raspberry 4 attached to it with Octoprint but i dont know if its possible to modify the Lerdge firmware for Klipper since its a closed system
i have the skr 1.3. my 2208's are in legacy mode. the generic cfg has them in uart mode how do i change this?
By the way, you can use Bitvise SSH (free for non commercial) instead of putty + winscp which has both terminal and STFP combined and its easier to use also supporting direct edit of files on host machine
to be fair, winscp supports direct edit of text files and the ability to send terminal commands as well. with that said, I did check out bitvise and it looks nice. I'll be giving it a try.
@@5napperlicious Bitvise SFTP also supports direct edit of text files from your favorite editor with much easier interface
@@Kmnri I know, you already mentioned that. 😂
i wonder if this can be done with an anycubic vyper? hmmm....
I have a sapphire plus with MKS robin nano v1.2, followed klipper documentation however, stuck when executing "make", (Error: arm-none-eabi-gcc: not found
scons: [main.o] Error 127)
Is a pi 4 recommended for Octoprint and Klipper? Or would a Pi 3 B+ work fine?
Pi 3 B+ is fine. If you use Fluidd, you can get away with a pi zero.
can you use klipper on a ramps board and also..on a Anet ver2 board
Yes for both questions.
The sister video is for a Creality V2.4 mainboard which is 8 bit and based on Ramps. The process will be closer to what you're looking for.
Could I use Klipper and drive Step/Dir servos directly from the Pi ?
No. You still need the CNC specific hardware provided by the mainboard such as stepper drivers and MOSFETs to switch the higher voltage/current.
@@TeachingTech
Hey, Micheal. I appreciate the reply. Klipper uses the Pi as primary motion controller, right? So what does it send to the printer's mainboard via usb if not step/dir info that then gets fed to the stepper drivers? I was referring to actual (integrated) servos, which don't need external drivers, let alone the og stepper drivers, only 0-0.5v low and 3.5-24v high signals for steps and direction. So I have no use for stepper drivers, high current FETs and the boards heater circuit. The Pi should have enough I/O to connect temp sensors and SSRs for the heating elements. The step/dir pins on the printer mainboard seem to be 3.3v or lower just like on the Pi, so I'll need a logic level shifter either way.
I just finished sourcing the parts for my first diy printer, a fully servo driven core-x/y. I still have an ethernet cnc motion controller lying around from an abandoned project, so theoretically I could use Mach3 on my laptop to control it ... but using a $600 controller + laptop + mach3 license just to make a printer move seems a bit overkill ... a single Pi would be much more reasonable and convenient.
But my specific use case might be a bit too far outside the scope of this tutorial.
Is it completely different if my Fl Sun SR has the Robin Nano V3 board? Can someone help me with this?
Klipper installe don my FLSUN SR del ta printer. Thx !
I'm showing the sister video as private. Is it not released yet?
Fixed!
Is input shaping available for delta printer?
Please make configuration file for ender 3 type printer with skr 1.3 and bltouch
There's already example config files for those, this video should give you the basic guideline to create such a config.
So I just got into 3D printing a few months ago, and after watching this.....I don't want to do it anymore.
No need to convert if you don't want to. If everything is working as it should be and you are happy, then leave it alone and keep printing.
what about input shaper on a delta?
This may be a stupid question, as I've only just slightly dabbled in rPi/octoprint, but... why has no one made a shield for the rPi that contains all the usual inputs/outputs a 3D printer needs? I see so, so many videos where the 'solution' is essentially: the entire brains of the 3D printer mainboard are ignored and the rPi does all the heavy lifting, sending serial/gcode commands to the mainboard which acts more like a breakout board for access to the steppers, heater, thermistor, etc.
Is there some fundamental reason why a 'generic' board can't be made with all these inputs and outputs, without the added cost of 32-bit brains, built in the shape of a shield for the rPi?
I already have a video on such a board: ruclips.net/video/5bIzcA8PBgY/видео.html
I guess one of the advantages of Klipper is that you can add a pi to your existing hardware without mucking around with wiring. Such boards require spending money on a pi and the board.
@@TeachingTech Oh that's brilliant! I only found recently and I haven't gone through your backlog of videos yet, but this looks like a very good watch. Thanks for the explanation, that certainly makes sense!
Does it work with Duet 3 6HC?
I hope that in the future this hole thing is in one ready package, for a beginner it's a lot of stuff. 😔
There was a 3d printer board on Kickstarter that combined it with a connector for a Raspberry Pi 4 Compute Module. Unfortunately it didn't succeed.
Also, modding printers like this isn't exactly beginner's stuff, truth be told. There's no way around it than to take your time to learn things.
The best I've come across is the Rat Rig V-core 3 which has a pi image with EVERYTHING already setup. Fluidd, Klipper, printer.cfg, macros, etc
ruclips.net/video/8B12D_D1i0s/видео.html
@@TeachingTech thanks for the info 🙂
Exelente video muy explicado, quizás el script de kiauh ayude a hacer más fácil la instalación
I'm gonna guess this will end up going nowhere but I was going through the calibration of this (specifically the levelling process) and it warns me that it's gone out of bounds and stops and I can't progress on about the 3rd or 4th point (I forget now). Using the same config on the same printer. Any ideas or tips anyone?
Promising. I ll stick with Marlin though purely coz the raspberry pi has the habit to crash often due to sd corruption
The only time I've ever had a corrupted sd card was a house wide blackout. I consider that unlucky as I have multiple Pis running constantly with multiple expected black outs and it's only happened once.
@@TeachingTech then i must be very unlucky
Anyone know the compile settings for robin nano v3? I got a different mainboard with my super racer
Google the board and you will see the processor is listed: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002074259790.html
Select the matching option in the makeconfig UI.
22:19 mfw the printer ive been tuning for days still doesnt print
Anyone have the cura settings for this printer? I have a mac and can't use the .exe file it came with.
I run into the wall when you use windows only applications like WinSCP to compile the software. There is no useful PuTTY for Apple computers that I can find.
can you share your printer config ? i have also an flsun sr and i would love to use klipper :D you would help me a lot when you share your config :)
bloody hell 🤯🤯 I cant work out what to buy as a first printer and what you guys do confuses the s%*t out of me, if sellers of printers buy then and then sell on why has no one set up a chain that does all this so when said printer arrives the machines work like a dream, I glad there are really tec clever people about 👍👍, when i can finally pull the trigger on a printer i would be worried to hell of changing something and it blows up 🤭
doing my Anet ET5 Pro will be a disaster I see.. not looking forward to this weekend anymore
Is it possible to make a 3d printer with only raspberry pi as the entire controller could any one tell ?????
No, you need power electronics to drive the stepper motors.
@@vinnycordeiro Thank you
@@indigosandwiches Thank you
Hello. I was wondering if you could help me out. I recently got the ender extender kit for the 500mm z-axis and i need to update the firmware. I followed your marlin editing tutorial and ran into a problem the my engineering teacher, IT teacher, and reddit haven't been able to help me with. I know I'm asking for your help for free but j was wondering if you had the firmware for the ender 3 with the 500mm z-axis. I've been trying to fix the problem for a week now and I haven't had any luck. I have a part that i wanted to print but without the new firmware i can't. If you could help me I'd really appreciate it.
@Lassi Kinnunen 81 it has Marlin. I'm not sure which version. I'm not home right now so i can't check
@@robertsmith8472 can you compile marlin
Download the source code for Marlin on the official Github repository, download the example Ender 3 (I suppose) config files, open Configuration.h, file the line that says #define Z_MAX_POS and change the number on the side to your current Z axis height, save the file, compile the firmware, install firmware on Ender 3 (have you installed a bootloader on it first? If not, you'll need to do that before changing Marlin).
Or install Klipper and just change a text file configuration.
@@vinnycordeiro i followed his beginner's guide exactly but it said there was a problem with the gcc. Which is why it wouldn't compile. The only thing i don't have is the boot loader.
@@robertsmith8472 You don't compile Marlin directly from gcc, you either use the Arduino IDE (Marlin 1) or Visual Studio Code (Marlin 2).
Great video still extremy complicated
klipper everything
Klipper all the things!