Even though I have done input shaping and pressure advance with my printers there was still a couple of things I picked up from this video to improve my methodology. Thanks.
I think this channel just kinda rewrites other people's videos with a bit of polish. I see quite a bit of accurate data is missing. skipping over technical stuff or just general incomplete data.
@@PlzReturnYourShoppingCart I find the stuff he glosses over here is covered in great detail in other videos. He is certainly to the point if nothing else though. He's refreshing compared to some of the dribble out there.
@@PlzReturnYourShoppingCart I think that is a harsh generalization of TT. Many of his videos go into great detail, and he is one of the easiest to follow.
Additionally, if you do the commands in Putty to process the accelerometer data into PNG files for X and Y it will give you a suggested max acceleration so no need to print a test tower anymore. That's a relatively new feature.
I did that and can almost find no ringing at all. Only a slight shade with a light really close to the print. Anyways I don't understand why caring about ringing at 7000 if the max_accelation is often maxed out earlier. In that case the Hz could just stay as they are.
Thank you so much for your tutorial, i just finished my config with an Accelerometer on a Voron 0.1. I had a few errors here and there i wasnt able to fix untill i watched your video. Works like a charm now.
the max suggested acceleration for each shaper type is shown immediately after calculations are done. In your case, IS suggested value of 4300 mm/s^2 for X and 4400 mm/s^2 for Y as seen at 18:18. So I'd go with 4200 for both
One of the best ways of measuring the ringing manually is probably a flatbed scanner of all things. Very good for getting dimensionally accurate images, especially organic shapes ...as long as they're flat.
I actually did this when restoring engraved images and text on firearms with a laser for a TV show. There are cheap flatbed scanners for doing things like scanning old camera slides that can do 12800dpi (which is of course way overkill). This was the only way to really get dimensional accuracy. I had a nice digital microscope but it distorted the images' proportions more.
OMG, it just all clicked for me. Thank you for slowing things down. I installed Klipper on my Prusa Mini and am using Mainsail and LOVE the interface and how well it runs compared to Octoprint. Octoprint seems bloated to hell now. If they can just incorporate filament manager into moonraker, it will be perfect! I finally see it as a programming language. instead of writing and using macros in my printer.cfg, I just made a separate macros.cfg and did an [include macros.cfg]. I'm getting flashbacks of programming classes in college.
Thanks for your video, it help me to improve my Voron 2.4 300³ with Afterburner. This Input Shaping is an cool stuff. Before watching your video i was not aware that there is an PlugIn called OctoKlipper Plugin. I installed it immediatly. Continue with such videos!!!
At the end of the PA section [7:30], you mention something about re-visiting retraction. Should or should not retraction distance be reset to default value (or zero) or turned off 'before' running the PA cal? Trying to grasp if there is detrimental overlap in the retraction distance and PA variable settings.
So here is what concerns me. I did exactly what the Klipper page told me for pressure advance. Yet the best corner caused massive wall thickness differences. Best corners were at around 0.134 while the most even walls after testing some cubes was 0.06. I was not satisfied with how the walls looked so after printing several of the model they provided I decided to take a cube and spiral outer contours with a set number. First 0.01 second 0.02. I then measured the wall thickness in both. 1.07 and 1.02 (0.8mm nozzle) so I then took the difference which was something like ~0.95 and took my 1.02 and continued to take that percentage off until I reached 0.8. Calculating that I got to 0.06 and thus I set it to 0.06 and printed another cube. The cube was perfect even though the corners were not. They were a lot better though. I take perfect walls over perfect corners. Both sides of the wall were 0.82mm and so was the center meaning I am slightly overextruding. However it might not be worth fixing that. (Probably caused by me dialing the extruder setting to about 417 steps/mm while the manual told me to use 424.9 steps/mm and as I was slightly underextruding with 417 I just used the 424.9.)
Wonderful video young man, being pretty old I need a shop that could do my 10s Pro I am not confident I can follow all the required code changes. Do you see 3D Printer Tuners like we have with our newer Sports Cars. S 3d Printer Tuner Service???? How fast could the 10S Pro be made. Lighter Bed frame, Garolite bed top, Linear rails X and Y?????? What are your thoughts on Core XY, Ender 7 type for accuracy and speed?
The real power of klipper shows up, when you use it to make your printer do things it wasn't capable of before. E.g. And Ender 3 is not able to control its hotend or mainboard fan. Having Klipper running on a rasperry Pi makes that a piece of cake.
The Ender 3 doesn't control the fan on the heatsink because your not suppose to lower that. The transition area is down near the heat block, the tube of heat brake that is exposed to air. Idea is to keep the painted heat sink near ambient, transition area ambient to print temp and heat block/nozzle at print temp.
A little bit late, but for future reference, I had an issue when slicing all those files in PrusaSlicer, as it was not letting me reach the wanted 100m/s speed I choosed, topping at only 50mm/s in the result gcode (as seen in the gcode preview), and averaging around 40mm/s. It was a little bit hard to resolve but the speed was limited by PrusaSlicer because the filament I selected had a maximum volumetric speed set at 8mm3/s (in "Filament settings" / "Advanced" / "Max volumetric speed"), therefore limiting the amount of plastic the slicer would let to extrude (exacerbated by the fact I use a 0.6mm nozzle). Bumping it to 14mm3/s resolved the issue, letting me reach the target 100mm/s.
14mm3/s should not be enough for a .6 mm nozzle at the layer height the documentation asks for (75% of nozzle diameter). Unfortunately i can't extrude more than 15 of this particular filament, so i don't know what to do...
Hi Michael, Love the klipper series. I install klipperscreen with the same hyperpixel screen as you did. Your guide was a great help. I have one question though. How do you change the position of the 4 corner bed leveling points? My printer is an ender 3 max with a bed size of 300 x 300. The default corners on klipperscreen are all to close to the center of the bed. I want to change it so the bed leveling corners are closer to the actual corners of the bed. Thanks for any help.
@@bernardbockwurst yeah - why actually take a whole couple of minutes to learn about how YOUR printer was assembled and functions? I mean that seems silly when you can just assume that every single MCU, stepper driver, motor, gear, heat break, hotend and nozzle were manufactured exactly the same and never vary at all.
How do you go about adding the accelerometer to the Pi, if you are using a “hat type” display on the Pi (HyperPixel) Can it be added to the SKR Pro v1.3 board directly and used? ADXL345 / SKR Pro v1.3 / IR ABL New to 3D printing TwoTrees sapphire pro bones Love your channel
Awesome video, bar battling with Dupont connectors I was able to get this up and running in one day, thank you for that.. One question if I m,ay I've taken seperate measurements for X and y (Bed slinger), its come back with the following, #*# [input_shaper] #*# shaper_type_x = ei #*# shaper_freq_x = 80.2 #*# shaper_type_y = 3hump_ei #*# shaper_freq_y = 48.0 But for X it recommends sub 12000 for Max Accel and for Y Sub 1500 (Y is the bench), so am not sure which to use as my max_accel? for now I've been conservative and used the 1500. For reference I'm running an Elegoo 2s with stock hot end (Bowden), Dual fan upgrade to shroud.
It does not make a difference to set the max_accel and max_accel_to_decel to 10000 when you print the Tuning-tower from Klipper: TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT PARAMETER=ACCEL START=1250 FACTOR=100 BAND=5) That command increases the sprint-speed by 500 for every 5mm starting from 1250. Its even wrong in the manual. (because there is says that the test starts from 1500) The tower is 60mm high. That means that there are 12 increments of 5mm. So starting at 1250 + 12x5mm which would be 12 x increase of 500 = 7250
Man I love that accelerometer... please please produce a video showing the dual setup on the X1.... Yes I own one... and yes it’s been great, bar the snapped arm and fried ribbon cable. Funny, I’m sort of glad those faults happened, it taught me a lot. As I fixed the faults myself. Hint: Dialectic grease on the ribbon, for the win... pun intended. 😄 (Running Race ribbon)😉 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 X1 accelerator 😂😂😂 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎🤓
Hi, thanks for the video it’s very interesting, can you tell me which plugin do you use on octoprint for having the terminal with commands caméra and température in the same panel? Thanks in advance, best regards
Would you adjust something like pressure advice in the Klipper software only? Or would you do it in your slicer first with each filament, using something like Orca Slicer? If you do it with the slicer, do you even need to do it in Klipper?
I just had a quick question about the automatic version (SHAPER_CALIBRATE). I noticed the accelerometer was mounted vertically on the delta printer, which wouldn't line up the axis markings on the chip with the true motion of travel. When it's mounted horizontally with the long edge towards the front of the printer, all of the axes are lined up with the true motion of travel. It's not a big deal when doing the manual method because you can just make a mental note that the Y input shaper values would be recorded on Z and the X on Y. However, with the automatic method, can you specify somehow which orientation you have the chip in so the values in the config are for the true motions of travel? I suppose you could just flip them around after the fact, but thought I check if you happened to account for this in a different way. Thanks again for all of the great content!
I am glad you posted this as I noted this as well so the automatic measurements I assume would not be right if you followed this video example as the axis are not correctly aligned to the markings on the ADXL343.
How do you determine WHERE on the model to measure your ringing? Do you figure out where the model was printing at your desired acceleration and measure from there?
When printer configuration is changed inside the printer. There must be a time difference printing two similar parts. Because the printer now slow down the print, so it will look nice. So whats is the time difference between the 2 prints? (measured on the printer from start print to end print) Because if the time is significant slower, we could just print at a slower speed.
Hi, I'm an amateur 3D printer user and I was wondering if you know how to fix square shaped circles or tubes. I have tried tightening the belts and changing settings, but I can't seem to fix this issue.
I am printing in vase mode and have my perimeter internal and external set to 100mm/s but when I look at the speed of my print in super slicer it the entire print is showing 26mm/s. Also my printer is printing at that speed as well. I can't figure out what is limiting the speed.
Few questions. 1) Can I install it on ender 3 v2 2) can I use an octopi with it? 3) is it hard to deal with? 4) Do I need to do anything special with Cura?
@@joshua43214 >yes but why I already have one set up, but I suppose if theres a thing that provides similar features I can just go with that. Thanks mate.
Hey thank you for this greate tutorial again. Does anyone use Arc-Welder für Klipper? Is it worth it? Any downsides? Or maybe worth a Video? @Teaching Tech :)
Arc welder for Cura you mean? Never had good luck with it, prints always come out much worse. Stopped messing with it a while ago, but it is on my lsit of things to get back to. The concept is great.
I have been trying to get into Klipper but I just can't get my BL Touch to work on my SKR e3 v2, but once I can figure that out I'll be definitely going through all of this with a fine toothed comb. I wish there was a better repository of known printer configs, or even a printer config creator tool based on drop down boxes that compile printer configs based on selection parameters. Maybe you could add something like that to your website?
[bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PC2 control_pin: PA1 pin_move_time: 0.675 stow_on_each_sample: True probe_with_touch_mode: True pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False z_offset: .965 speed: 10 lift_speed: 20 samples: 2 sample_retract_dist: 5 samples_tolerance_retries: 3 samples_tolerance_retries: 3 x_offset: -40 y_offset: -12 Fill in your own off sets... Oh and remember to change endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop under [stepper_z] if you used your z endstop for your probe
I'm having same issue with the E3 turbo no literature is available to set up and is all outdated. I can't even get Marlin to flash in the E3 turbo used 4 diff methods it's abit of a Joke and Biqu won't help
@@asocialconsciousness8535 Hey! Thanks for this, I am going to give it a try in the morning. I really appreciate the kindness you showed trying to help others.
just wondering if you are planning to review the BTT octopus or octopus pro boards (60v with new 5160 drivers) just ordered a 500x500 rat rig and now deciding which board to get, got 2 months wait to think about it lol
I have mine running with the Octopus running 2209 drivers. The V-coreos works well,, but is a little tricky to follow how the broke everything up into separate configuration files. Once you work through it - it makes sense, but can be hard to find settings at first.
Makerbase recently released the MKS monster8 At it's price point I really don't see why anyone would choose it over a Spider, Octopus or Mellow Super8. Shame. Well anyway I ordered an Octopus because the features it has are insane!
@@jonathanlarsen4177 I agree. I ordered the Fystec Spider, but could not get it running under Vcoreos, so purchased the Octopus. It seems like a great board, and the price with 8 - 2209 drivers was under $100. It has so many options it takes a road map to figure it out. I'm only using 6 of the drivers, 3 z 2 for X and Y and 1 for the extruder.
@@woodwaker1 Yeah, I had the choice between the SKR 2 or Octopus for my Aquila and the price is the same between these two. I am planning to build a 3D printed robot arm anyway so 8 steppers will come in handy in the future. Hopefully MKS Nano v3 will be in stock again or nano v4 will be out. Running an Ender style printer with an octopus makes 0 sense haha
If a 3d printer is basically a cnc machine what's the difference with marlin - klipper - masso control boards, totally new to this type of stuff but seen loads of videos on cnc builds but carnt find out what these do, sorry if this is a really dumb question and if so i will see my self out 🤭
Is it feasible to self source all the parts needed for the rat rig v core 3? Doesn’t seem to be as popular an action as it is for the Voron and HEVO but it is technically open source. That 8 week lead time is a bummer.
Ok so I got this all set up but what do I need to change in PrusaSlicer for the acceleration settings? Do I leave them all at 0 and leave the default at 3000?
A couple questions: Which slicer are you using? Looks like a fancier version of Prusa. Do you plan on doing a 3D Calibration page similar to the one you have now but for Klipper, or adding to the current one with Klipper specific sections?
What gauge wire did you use? I tried Cat6 and a security wire with thicker gauge wire and it threw errors. Unless I hook the accelerometer up to the board with short jumpers it just throws errors. Should I run off the 5v instead of the 3v side because of length?
Might be of interest: See klipper discourse group discussion "ADXL345 Raspberry pi4 multi SPI". Essentially you can connect two accelerometer boards to the pi, and then change some settings to make klipper aware of them.
im pretty late.. im sorry.. but i dont understand the translation from "dynamic acceleration control" from the settings in SuperSlicer. I know it has much more settings in speed and acceleration than other slicers, but i cant grasp what to turn off, turn to 0, or leave alone. I appreciate the help, if any, in advance.
You had mentioned for a bed slinger you need 2 accelerometers, one for X and one for Y axis. Do you have to switch connection between tests or do you wire two of them up together somehow?
Late reply I know, but for others with this question, see see klipper discourse group discussion "ADXL345 Raspberry pi4 multi SPI". Essentially you can connect two accelerometer boards to the pi, and then change some settings to make klipper aware of them.
Great guide here, as well as others. I do have a quick question though. I set my slicer to print at 100mm/s as outlined. Basically changed all the speeds but 1st layer to 100mm/s. but for some reason it will not print above about 50-55mm/s and it is not moving fast enough to show me any effect on acceleration changes. Am I missing an obvious setting that is not allowing the 100mm/s speed? I have Ender 3 S1 (Klipper/Moonsail/Cura).
@@TeachingTech As I suspected. I would absolutely love a Voron. I have studied many a video and published data by the project itself. The problem is my age and ability to build like I once could. I need/want a nearly pre-built Voran type that requires very minimum final assembly similar to the ubiquitous Creality machines of the world.
can you make a 3d printer tier list please? putting the ender 3, prusia i3, voron 2.4, rat rig and everyone else together against each other to find the best printer.
17:10 can you share your mounting design? I would love to add an infrared abl sensor + accelerometer to my Flsun QQ s pro (as far as I know it uses the same mounting for the bed leveling switch). Having a permanent abl solution would be awesome.
what is wrong if my ringing tower is crooked in X+ and Y- for the first 1,5cm. After that, the print goes normaly upwards in Z+. It looks like the Pisa Tower.
Hey, I recently found this RUclipsr called mr3dprint who apparently just cuts PET bottles into strings, squeezes these strings through a hotend and thus turns them into printable filament. I really want this to work, but the question is: Why doesn't everyone do this? In his newer videos he shows more of his setup, but it still seems too good to be true. Can you maybe take a look at his process and test out if it actually works?
@@deathcube2006 Exactly, this is why I want a pro to take a look at this. IF (and that's a big if) this can conceivably work, even if the end product isn't super pretty, it would still be quite awesome. I really want this to work, but every time I see one of his videos, I get the feeling that I'm being conned.
After putting in the value for pressure advance my extruder got quite noisy and seems to be retracting and extruding very quickly and violently. Is that normal?
In the instructions they say to go with a lower value if unsure. I had the same problem, but realized you don't have to be perfect. I looked at all 4 corners and found a good average. I also re-ran the test with a lower factor. TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.0025 or TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.0020 This will change your resolution and make it easier to read. you just have to adjust the calculation to use the correct factor..
This seems interesting, i have a 4 year+- old printer running klipper. It is on the larger side, and a bed slinger and bed has some weight to it.. Is someone using this on for example creality cr10s4 or s5? Printe i currently have is 400x/y and 700z, plus frame. I wonder if there is much point trying to set this up manually, i dont have a accelerometer laying around i can use. Just burned money on upgrading drivers and pi computer so i could run klipper with input shaping. Was planing to enable UART, but i see i need to diy connection because of the design of the board.. Not sure if im gonna order a accelerometer, try to setup manually or ignore it and perhaps dive into it in the future. Anyone have a big bed slinger, gone from marlin to klipper and have any experience to share? Have the impression larger bed slingers could deliver better quality prints, probably with faster print speeds if this option is enabled and calibrated. Even if it is without accelerometer. AM i wrong?
I am genuinely at my wits end. I tried following this to the letter multiple times and still I have the issue that every time I try to connect after setting up the mcu rpi it claims that Printer is not ready and then just stalls there forever.
Can You make A Marker And Eraser holder on Onshape plz I really need it in school it’s part of my project to make one so Plz can you show me how to make on Onshape.🥺
Hey there! I was wondering if you had any input on how I got the EXACT same values for X and Y frequency as you? I have an Ender 3 v2. Is this normal, or coincidence? My jaw literally dropped!
yes, works fine. If there was no difference, then directions did not get followed somewhere. Use the main Klipper page (listed in the description), other sources can be helpful, but often are incomplete.
You could absolutely leave it plugged in but that would mean some proper cable management. I prefer to leave the sensor in place for retuning and unplugging the cable to keep things simple.
Even though I have done input shaping and pressure advance with my printers there was still a couple of things I picked up from this video to improve my methodology. Thanks.
It’s worth noting that you can do X and Y at separate times using one accelerometer and just moving it on a bed slinger.
I think this channel just kinda rewrites other people's videos with a bit of polish. I see quite a bit of accurate data is missing. skipping over technical stuff or just general incomplete data.
@@PlzReturnYourShoppingCart I find the stuff he glosses over here is covered in great detail in other videos. He is certainly to the point if nothing else though. He's refreshing compared to some of the dribble out there.
@@PlzReturnYourShoppingCart I think that is a harsh generalization of TT. Many of his videos go into great detail, and he is one of the easiest to follow.
Additionally, if you do the commands in Putty to process the accelerometer data into PNG files for X and Y it will give you a suggested max acceleration so no need to print a test tower anymore. That's a relatively new feature.
I did that on the Rat Rig but still prefer the automated method. Obviously to demonstrate for this video I need a before and after too.
Thanks for mentioning that. I'm looking forward to getting Klipper installed and I hadn't seen that possibility yet.
I did that and can almost find no ringing at all. Only a slight shade with a light really close to the print. Anyways I don't understand why caring about ringing at 7000 if the max_accelation is often maxed out earlier. In that case the Hz could just stay as they are.
Where do you find the commands for Putty?
@@keri5320 Klipper docs walk you through the entire process.
Randomly seeing my M300 beeper macro on RUclips, that's epic :) !
Thank you so much for your tutorial, i just finished my config with an Accelerometer on a Voron 0.1. I had a few errors here and there i wasnt able to fix untill i watched your video. Works like a charm now.
the max suggested acceleration for each shaper type is shown immediately after calculations are done. In your case, IS suggested value of 4300 mm/s^2 for X and 4400 mm/s^2 for Y as seen at 18:18. So I'd go with 4200 for both
Perfect timing Michael. that's why I love this channel.
One of the best ways of measuring the ringing manually is probably a flatbed scanner of all things.
Very good for getting dimensionally accurate images, especially organic shapes ...as long as they're flat.
I actually did this when restoring engraved images and text on firearms with a laser for a TV show. There are cheap flatbed scanners for doing things like scanning old camera slides that can do 12800dpi (which is of course way overkill). This was the only way to really get dimensional accuracy. I had a nice digital microscope but it distorted the images' proportions more.
It would be interesting to see how it compares between accelerometer to manual on the same printer.
I can produce a pretty nice 3D print... almost production quality. Dude you are on a whole different level. Your videos are gold.
OMG, it just all clicked for me. Thank you for slowing things down. I installed Klipper on my Prusa Mini and am using Mainsail and LOVE the interface and how well it runs compared to Octoprint. Octoprint seems bloated to hell now. If they can just incorporate filament manager into moonraker, it will be perfect! I finally see it as a programming language. instead of writing and using macros in my printer.cfg, I just made a separate macros.cfg and did an [include macros.cfg]. I'm getting flashbacks of programming classes in college.
Thank you Michael!
Your vids are great!!!
Build also a RatRig vCore3 400mm.
Best regards from Austria!
I've seen this video lie 5 times because I wanted to do it on my printer. Finally today I got the chance to do it.
Thanks for your video, it help me to improve my Voron 2.4 300³ with Afterburner. This Input Shaping is an cool stuff. Before watching your video i was not aware that there is an PlugIn called OctoKlipper Plugin. I installed it immediatly. Continue with such videos!!!
Are you using SuperSlicer? That's awesome! Hoping to see a video about your thoughts on it soon!
I'm actually editing it right now.
At the end of the PA section [7:30], you mention something about re-visiting retraction. Should or should not retraction distance be reset to default value (or zero) or turned off 'before' running the PA cal? Trying to grasp if there is detrimental overlap in the retraction distance and PA variable settings.
Would love a video on input shaping with Duet boards. 🤞🏻
This!!
Having done both methods, just do the accelerometer. It's way more accurate and it costs like $2
In Canada that accelerometer is on Amazon at $60 ! Dec 2022
@@als4817 why don't you buy it on aliexpress?
So here is what concerns me. I did exactly what the Klipper page told me for pressure advance. Yet the best corner caused massive wall thickness differences. Best corners were at around 0.134 while the most even walls after testing some cubes was 0.06.
I was not satisfied with how the walls looked so after printing several of the model they provided I decided to take a cube and spiral outer contours with a set number. First 0.01 second 0.02. I then measured the wall thickness in both. 1.07 and 1.02 (0.8mm nozzle) so I then took the difference which was something like ~0.95 and took my 1.02 and continued to take that percentage off until I reached 0.8. Calculating that I got to 0.06 and thus I set it to 0.06 and printed another cube. The cube was perfect even though the corners were not. They were a lot better though. I take perfect walls over perfect corners.
Both sides of the wall were 0.82mm and so was the center meaning I am slightly overextruding. However it might not be worth fixing that. (Probably caused by me dialing the extruder setting to about 417 steps/mm while the manual told me to use 424.9 steps/mm and as I was slightly underextruding with 417 I just used the 424.9.)
pure gold, thank you
Hey neighbor, can I borrow your parrot? Neighbor: Why? TTech: Well I’m trying to show people how 3D printers work.
Wonderful video young man, being pretty old I need a shop that could do my 10s Pro I am not confident I can follow all the required code changes. Do you see 3D Printer Tuners like we have with our newer Sports Cars. S 3d Printer Tuner Service???? How fast could the 10S Pro be made. Lighter Bed frame, Garolite bed top, Linear rails X and Y?????? What are your thoughts on Core XY, Ender 7 type for accuracy and speed?
The real power of klipper shows up, when you use it to make your printer do things it wasn't capable of before. E.g. And Ender 3 is not able to control its hotend or mainboard fan. Having Klipper running on a rasperry Pi makes that a piece of cake.
The Ender 3 doesn't control the fan on the heatsink because your not suppose to lower that. The transition area is down near the heat block, the tube of heat brake that is exposed to air. Idea is to keep the painted heat sink near ambient, transition area ambient to print temp and heat block/nozzle at print temp.
My Ender 3 (32 bit board) is able to control the main board fan.
@@sonosus Temperatur controlled? i doubt that :)
@@sonosus What you are hearing change speed is the power supply fan
A little bit late, but for future reference, I had an issue when slicing all those files in PrusaSlicer, as it was not letting me reach the wanted 100m/s speed I choosed, topping at only 50mm/s in the result gcode (as seen in the gcode preview), and averaging around 40mm/s. It was a little bit hard to resolve but the speed was limited by PrusaSlicer because the filament I selected had a maximum volumetric speed set at 8mm3/s (in "Filament settings" / "Advanced" / "Max volumetric speed"), therefore limiting the amount of plastic the slicer would let to extrude (exacerbated by the fact I use a 0.6mm nozzle). Bumping it to 14mm3/s resolved the issue, letting me reach the target 100mm/s.
14mm3/s should not be enough for a .6 mm nozzle at the layer height the documentation asks for (75% of nozzle diameter). Unfortunately i can't extrude more than 15 of this particular filament, so i don't know what to do...
Good vid there buddy. now next step is to get rid of Octoprint :) Mainsail is awesome. Give it a try.
I need it for the continuous print plugin that will be central to the SR's upcoming mods.
Hi Michael, Love the klipper series. I install klipperscreen with the same hyperpixel screen as you did. Your guide was a great help.
I have one question though. How do you change the position of the 4 corner bed leveling points? My printer is an ender 3 max with a bed size of 300 x 300. The default corners on klipperscreen are all to close to the center of the bed. I want to change it so the bed leveling corners are closer to the actual corners of the bed.
Thanks for any help.
Hey mate love the series. Just wondering if Klipper allows for live offset adjustment. Predominantly in the Z axis.
Yes.
I'm doing a pressure advance print right now, perfect timing!
Just did mine this AM! Second Klipper printer in two months.
@@bernardbockwurst yeah - why actually take a whole couple of minutes to learn about how YOUR printer was assembled and functions? I mean that seems silly when you can just assume that every single MCU, stepper driver, motor, gear, heat break, hotend and nozzle were manufactured exactly the same and never vary at all.
on bowden tube systems it causes a lot of trouble
How do you go about adding the accelerometer to the Pi, if you are using a “hat type” display on the Pi (HyperPixel) Can it be added to the SKR Pro v1.3 board directly and used?
ADXL345 / SKR Pro v1.3 / IR ABL
New to 3D printing
TwoTrees sapphire pro bones
Love your channel
A video where is explained how to have 2 instances of clipper or 1 instance of clipper and one of octoprint on the same raspberry pi would be great
Awesome video, bar battling with Dupont connectors I was able to get this up and running in one day, thank you for that.. One question if I m,ay I've taken seperate measurements for X and y (Bed slinger), its come back with the following,
#*# [input_shaper]
#*# shaper_type_x = ei
#*# shaper_freq_x = 80.2
#*# shaper_type_y = 3hump_ei
#*# shaper_freq_y = 48.0
But for X it recommends sub 12000 for Max Accel and for Y Sub 1500 (Y is the bench), so am not sure which to use as my max_accel? for now I've been conservative and used the 1500. For reference I'm running an Elegoo 2s with stock hot end (Bowden), Dual fan upgrade to shroud.
It does not make a difference to set the max_accel and max_accel_to_decel to 10000 when you print the Tuning-tower from Klipper: TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT PARAMETER=ACCEL START=1250 FACTOR=100 BAND=5)
That command increases the sprint-speed by 500 for every 5mm starting from 1250. Its even wrong in the manual. (because there is says that the test starts from 1500)
The tower is 60mm high. That means that there are 12 increments of 5mm.
So starting at 1250 + 12x5mm which would be 12 x increase of 500 = 7250
Man I love that accelerometer... please please produce a video showing the dual setup on the X1.... Yes I own one... and yes it’s been great, bar the snapped arm and fried ribbon cable.
Funny, I’m sort of glad those faults happened, it taught me a lot. As I fixed the faults myself.
Hint: Dialectic grease on the ribbon, for the win... pun intended. 😄
(Running Race ribbon)😉
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 X1 accelerator 😂😂😂
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎🤓
" Dialectic grease on the ribbon" -- I guess that makes the communication move more smoothly? Hahahaha.
please do a video on duet input shaping :) but you'll need a different accelerometer.
Can you explain square corner velocity? I have looked around and changed it up and down, but I have no idea what it actually does.
My guess would be that it dictates the max velocity going around sharp corners, but that's just from the name. I don't really know either!
Hi, thanks for the video it’s very interesting, can you tell me which plugin do you use on octoprint for having the terminal with commands caméra and température in the same panel? Thanks in advance, best regards
Would you adjust something like pressure advice in the Klipper software only? Or would you do it in your slicer first with each filament, using something like Orca Slicer? If you do it with the slicer, do you even need to do it in Klipper?
I just had a quick question about the automatic version (SHAPER_CALIBRATE). I noticed the accelerometer was mounted vertically on the delta printer, which wouldn't line up the axis markings on the chip with the true motion of travel. When it's mounted horizontally with the long edge towards the front of the printer, all of the axes are lined up with the true motion of travel. It's not a big deal when doing the manual method because you can just make a mental note that the Y input shaper values would be recorded on Z and the X on Y. However, with the automatic method, can you specify somehow which orientation you have the chip in so the values in the config are for the true motions of travel? I suppose you could just flip them around after the fact, but thought I check if you happened to account for this in a different way. Thanks again for all of the great content!
I am glad you posted this as I noted this as well so the automatic measurements I assume would not be right if you followed this video example as the axis are not correctly aligned to the markings on the ADXL343.
Hi. Thank's for video. I have a question. It is possible to use arduino and ADXL345 to measure the resonance instead of Klipper?
How do you determine WHERE on the model to measure your ringing? Do you figure out where the model was printing at your desired acceleration and measure from there?
What purple filament are you using in this video? It’s beautiful!
When printer configuration is changed inside the printer. There must be a time difference printing two similar parts. Because the printer now slow down the print, so it will look nice.
So whats is the time difference between the 2 prints? (measured on the printer from start print to end print)
Because if the time is significant slower, we could just print at a slower speed.
Hi, I'm an amateur 3D printer user and I was wondering if you know how to fix square shaped circles or tubes. I have tried tightening the belts and changing settings, but I can't seem to fix this issue.
I am printing in vase mode and have my perimeter internal and external set to 100mm/s but when I look at the speed of my print in super slicer it the entire print is showing 26mm/s. Also my printer is printing at that speed as well. I can't figure out what is limiting the speed.
Did you speak about that infrared probe in some video? Or I lost something? 🤔
Few questions.
1) Can I install it on ender 3 v2
2) can I use an octopi with it?
3) is it hard to deal with?
4) Do I need to do anything special with Cura?
1) Yes
2) Yes, but why?
3) mostly no, but sometimes yes. sadly, support is via Discord, which is a totally shitty platform for problems.
4) No
@@joshua43214 >yes but why
I already have one set up, but I suppose if theres a thing that provides similar features I can just go with that. Thanks mate.
Is that my consolidated tabs plugin peaking in your OctoPrint instance?
Indeed it is and I'm a fan. Been putting it on all my Octoprint installs. Thanks for your work!
Does Marlin have a feature similar to input shaping?
I am converting my Artist D Pro with a BIQU Manta M8P and CB1. Awaiting the parts, just thinking ahead. How does calibration work with 2 X Axis'?
Hi Michael, could you upload the little ADXL mount you made for the FLsun Super Racer?
Hey thank you for this greate tutorial again.
Does anyone use Arc-Welder für Klipper?
Is it worth it? Any downsides?
Or maybe worth a Video? @Teaching Tech :)
Arc welder for Cura you mean?
Never had good luck with it, prints always come out much worse.
Stopped messing with it a while ago, but it is on my lsit of things to get back to. The concept is great.
klipper does not need arcwelder, arc are already splitted and handled by klipper on stock gcode
@@RobertoAnile Why is there an option for it in the klipper docs then?
I have been trying to get into Klipper but I just can't get my BL Touch to work on my SKR e3 v2, but once I can figure that out I'll be definitely going through all of this with a fine toothed comb.
I wish there was a better repository of known printer configs, or even a printer config creator tool based on drop down boxes that compile printer configs based on selection parameters.
Maybe you could add something like that to your website?
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PC2
control_pin: PA1
pin_move_time: 0.675
stow_on_each_sample: True
probe_with_touch_mode: True
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False
z_offset: .965
speed: 10
lift_speed: 20
samples: 2
sample_retract_dist: 5
samples_tolerance_retries: 3
samples_tolerance_retries: 3
x_offset: -40
y_offset: -12
Fill in your own off sets...
Oh and remember to change endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop under [stepper_z] if you used your z endstop for your probe
I'm having same issue with the E3 turbo no literature is available to set up and is all outdated. I can't even get Marlin to flash in the E3 turbo used 4 diff methods it's abit of a Joke and Biqu won't help
@@samkazangas2022 did you have the bl touch configured and working for malin?
@@asocialconsciousness8535 not configured used pre configured
@@asocialconsciousness8535 Hey! Thanks for this, I am going to give it a try in the morning. I really appreciate the kindness you showed trying to help others.
What UI do you use for the CR-10 max?
just wondering if you are planning to review the BTT octopus or octopus pro boards (60v with new 5160 drivers)
just ordered a 500x500 rat rig and now deciding which board to get, got 2 months wait to think about it lol
I have mine running with the Octopus running 2209 drivers. The V-coreos works well,, but is a little tricky to follow how the broke everything up into separate configuration files. Once you work through it - it makes sense, but can be hard to find settings at first.
Makerbase recently released the MKS monster8
At it's price point I really don't see why anyone would choose it over a Spider, Octopus or Mellow Super8.
Shame. Well anyway I ordered an Octopus because the features it has are insane!
@@jonathanlarsen4177 I agree. I ordered the Fystec Spider, but could not get it running under Vcoreos, so purchased the Octopus. It seems like a great board, and the price with 8 - 2209 drivers was under $100. It has so many options it takes a road map to figure it out. I'm only using 6 of the drivers, 3 z 2 for X and Y and 1 for the extruder.
@@woodwaker1 Yeah, I had the choice between the SKR 2 or Octopus for my Aquila and the price is the same between these two. I am planning to build a 3D printed robot arm anyway so 8 steppers will come in handy in the future. Hopefully MKS Nano v3 will be in stock again or nano v4 will be out. Running an Ender style printer with an octopus makes 0 sense haha
Could you do an explanation on setting up the accelerometer while also using the hyperpixel 4 as klipperscreen since it uses all the pins
u can use a pico via usb
any tips on slicing the Resonance Compensation gcode? I'm having a hell of a time getting it to actually speed up during the print.
Apparently reprap has support for accelerometer now. Any chance of a video on that also?
I do plan to try it out in future.
hi mike can you give a tutorial on configuring usb web cam and raspberry pi cam module on fluidd klipper
I think cameras just work when you plug them in. You mihgt have to go to the system tab in Fluidd/mainsail and change camera type.
I don't have a pi cam to test it but as the others say, plug in USB cam and restart. It just works.
If a 3d printer is basically a cnc machine what's the difference with marlin - klipper - masso control boards, totally new to this type of stuff but seen loads of videos on cnc builds but carnt find out what these do, sorry if this is a really dumb question and if so i will see my self out 🤭
Is it feasible to self source all the parts needed for the rat rig v core 3? Doesn’t seem to be as popular an action as it is for the Voron and HEVO but it is technically open source. That 8 week lead time is a bummer.
Is there a chance that you make a similar video but for reprapfirmware?
I do plan to test IS on RRF in future so quite possibly.
Ok so I got this all set up but what do I need to change in PrusaSlicer for the acceleration settings? Do I leave them all at 0 and leave the default at 3000?
Complex stuff. Can Klipper run on an 8bit board such as an A8 ? (which I refer to as Fireball XL8 😃)
One of the printers in this video is 8 bit (CR-10 Max) so absolutely.
A couple questions:
Which slicer are you using? Looks like a fancier version of Prusa.
Do you plan on doing a 3D Calibration page similar to the one you have now but for Klipper, or adding to the current one with Klipper specific sections?
SuperSlicer! See his new vid on it!
In my case Ive followed all procedure for the Atillery genius but i didn't find any difference with or without inputshaping .
on the bed slinger can you attach the accelerometers same time?
What gauge wire did you use? I tried Cat6 and a security wire with thicker gauge wire and it threw errors. Unless I hook the accelerometer up to the board with short jumpers it just throws errors. Should I run off the 5v instead of the 3v side because of length?
Hi Michael! Could you please share the mount for ADXL on the Super Racer? Thanks!
Great videos. Have you tried ender 3, PI 4, klipper install, with two adxl345(one for X and one for Y)? If you have, can you please point me to it?
Might be of interest: See klipper discourse group discussion "ADXL345 Raspberry pi4 multi SPI". Essentially you can connect two accelerometer boards to the pi, and then change some settings to make klipper aware of them.
im pretty late.. im sorry.. but i dont understand the translation from "dynamic acceleration control" from the settings in SuperSlicer. I know it has much more settings in speed and acceleration than other slicers, but i cant grasp what to turn off, turn to 0, or leave alone. I appreciate the help, if any, in advance.
You had mentioned for a bed slinger you need 2 accelerometers, one for X and one for Y axis. Do you have to switch connection between tests or do you wire two of them up together somehow?
Late reply I know, but for others with this question, see see klipper discourse group discussion "ADXL345 Raspberry pi4 multi SPI". Essentially you can connect two accelerometer boards to the pi, and then change some settings to make klipper aware of them.
Great guide here, as well as others. I do have a quick question though. I set my slicer to print at 100mm/s as outlined. Basically changed all the speeds but 1st layer to 100mm/s. but for some reason it will not print above about 50-55mm/s and it is not moving fast enough to show me any effect on acceleration changes. Am I missing an obvious setting that is not allowing the 100mm/s speed? I have Ender 3 S1 (Klipper/Moonsail/Cura).
Your acceleration limit might not be high enough to allow the printer to get up to 100m/s fast enough. Just a guess
I have the same printer and the same configuration! were you able to solve it? acceleration does not increase more than 500
17:26 what fan shroud is using in the artillery-X1?
Great Klipper series, thanks. I hear Popeye is bored and looking for a new challenge ;-)
Do any commercial 3d printers have Klipper installed and working as shipped?
Rat Rigs and Vorons can but they are kits that need assembly so not quite.
@@TeachingTech As I suspected. I would absolutely love a Voron. I have studied many a video and published data by the project itself. The problem is my age and ability to build like I once could. I need/want a nearly pre-built Voran type that requires very minimum final assembly similar to the ubiquitous Creality machines of the world.
I noticed in OctoPrint you have to interface windows, how did you set that up?
You could make a video like this for creality cr-200b , boost it
Nice💕👌👍
can you make a 3d printer tier list please? putting the ender 3, prusia i3, voron 2.4, rat rig and everyone else together against each other to find the best printer.
when will those features will be implemented with marlin.
Boards manufacturer can really start doing 64bit Socs.
17:10 can you share your mounting design? I would love to add an infrared abl sensor + accelerometer to my Flsun QQ s pro (as far as I know it uses the same mounting for the bed leveling switch). Having a permanent abl solution would be awesome.
I would also love a copy of this design.
what is wrong if my ringing tower is crooked in X+ and Y- for the first 1,5cm. After that, the print goes normaly upwards in Z+.
It looks like the Pisa Tower.
Hey, I recently found this RUclipsr called mr3dprint who apparently just cuts PET bottles into strings, squeezes these strings through a hotend and thus turns them into printable filament. I really want this to work, but the question is: Why doesn't everyone do this? In his newer videos he shows more of his setup, but it still seems too good to be true. Can you maybe take a look at his process and test out if it actually works?
because filament is cheap with a reliable, uniform thickness. ramming bits of old bottles down the hot end seems like hard work
@@MrDead1975 plus many people is skeptical about that vid
@@deathcube2006 Exactly, this is why I want a pro to take a look at this. IF (and that's a big if) this can conceivably work, even if the end product isn't super pretty, it would still be quite awesome. I really want this to work, but every time I see one of his videos, I get the feeling that I'm being conned.
After putting in the value for pressure advance my extruder got quite noisy and seems to be retracting and extruding very quickly and violently. Is that normal?
input shaper is possible with an a4988 driver?
What's your slicer software?
I struggle to really pick the right layer for pressure advance
In the instructions they say to go with a lower value if unsure. I had the same problem, but realized you don't have to be perfect. I looked at all 4 corners and found a good average. I also re-ran the test with a lower factor.
TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.0025
or
TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE PARAMETER=ADVANCE START=0 FACTOR=.0020
This will change your resolution and make it easier to read. you just have to adjust the calculation to use the correct factor..
is there any way to run an accelerometer if you are using raspberry pi on a PC?
Can I scale down the ringing tower stl? it is way too big for my build plate :(
Im beginning to think matte black filament was a poor choice for this test.
Link to mount for the FLSUN Super racer accelerometer?
This seems interesting, i have a 4 year+- old printer running klipper. It is on the larger side, and a bed slinger and bed has some weight to it.. Is someone using this on for example creality cr10s4 or s5? Printe i currently have is 400x/y and 700z, plus frame.
I wonder if there is much point trying to set this up manually, i dont have a accelerometer laying around i can use. Just burned money on upgrading drivers and pi computer so i could run klipper with input shaping. Was planing to enable UART, but i see i need to diy connection because of the design of the board..
Not sure if im gonna order a accelerometer, try to setup manually or ignore it and perhaps dive into it in the future. Anyone have a big bed slinger, gone from marlin to klipper and have any experience to share? Have the impression larger bed slingers could deliver better quality prints, probably with faster print speeds if this option is enabled and calibrated. Even if it is without accelerometer. AM i wrong?
Rotation distance next please.
I have a section on this in each of the installation videos.
I am genuinely at my wits end. I tried following this to the letter multiple times and still I have the issue that every time I try to connect after setting up the mcu rpi it claims that Printer is not ready and then just stalls there forever.
I'd love to have this on my prusa mk3s but it would stray too far from the prusa ecosystem.
Can You make A Marker And Eraser holder on Onshape plz I really need it in school it’s part of my project to make one so Plz can you show me how to make on Onshape.🥺
Hey there! I was wondering if you had any input on how I got the EXACT same values for X and Y frequency as you? I have an Ender 3 v2. Is this normal, or coincidence? My jaw literally dropped!
Can you use PA on a cr-10s pro v2? One says yes and the other says no. Tried it but can hardly see any difference in the test prints.
yes, works fine. If there was no difference, then directions did not get followed somewhere.
Use the main Klipper page (listed in the description), other sources can be helpful, but often are incomplete.
The before and after PA pics in this video are on the CR-10 Max, which has the same mainboard so yes.
Go the Panthers
Is there any reason why the accelerometers _have_ to be unplugged during normal printing?
Nope. No reason I'm aware. Just less hassle if you retune often I suppose.
You could absolutely leave it plugged in but that would mean some proper cable management. I prefer to leave the sensor in place for retuning and unplugging the cable to keep things simple.