I am glad to finally see an honest video of this. So many of the other vids are sketchy with none of the details about how poor these inserts are. These panels are just not worth the cost and labor. They are cheap plastic and do not fit the door. If you remove the felt from behind the original panels you lose sound proofing and moisture barrier and end up with more road noise. Your best bet is a good upholstery shop.
@@jayhuff239 Thanks, and I concur! Upholstery shop is the best bet. May cost a lil more, but I believe it's worth it. The DIY mindset got the better of me on this project. 😆
Great video. A bit long but a lot of good detail. Agree with your approach as far as starting from a clean surface and removing the panel from the door. Agree with your solution of the template and pins to attach. The video on coverlay does not remove the underlying felt. Wonder if that is the extra distance needed for the fit. I have yet to install the ones I bought but did take your advice on the tape and may try it. Thanks again for the honest video.
Two small sections of mine started to come up on the panel using the tape. I used Starbond CA glue and now it's not going anywhere! :) Should have used that to begin with. CA glue works wonders!
Any thoughts on using “3M Super 77 Multipurpose Permanent Spray Adhesive Glue, Paper, Cardboard, Fabric, Plastic, Metal, Wood, “ if I leave some of the felt and clean the plastic overlay. I may slit the plastic to relief some of the tolerance issues.
@@drz400sy8 From what I was experiencing, the spray adhesive alone was not holding, even clamping it for a couple hours; even after spraying both parts and letting it tack up for about 30sec. As far as tolerance issues, if you have a dremel, you may need to chip away the "inner front curve" part that wraps right around the power controls. That turn is a little too close.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Thanks for the info. I went back to see what you used and it looked like 3M 90. I was also going to try both sides with one felt and the other plastic. I saw someone use wood cement type glue! Will have to test it a bit. A bit unbelievable that this can’t be easier than what I am seeing.
@@drz400sy8 Yup, when the tolerances are not perfect, all kinds of issues can arise and from the looks of all the ones I've seen on here, that seems to be the case. I was just hoping that I got lucky LOL. This might be the "perfect" panel replacement, but it definitely wasn't the perfect/easiest install.
Very thorough , I appreciate your video. I wanted to try this on my 05 but after watching yours I believe I'll find an upholstery shop. My luck doesn't justify the struggles. Those corners would break me lol. Many thanks to you and I hope your panels are holding up.
My bad, didn't realize my reply never went through. The panels are technically holding up. A couple of the corners have lifted up on BOTH panels, but you can't really tell unless you're looking for them. I will head to an upholstery shop if these panels completely fail over time. Of course, they look better than the old ones with the vinyl peeling away but the pain to get to this point was ughh! lol
There is actually a 3 - M Glue Remover and once you pull up the felt backing use the Glue remover to help clean every thing up so the new Cover goes on a clean panel. I am using the the 3 - M exterior trim adhesive in a toothpaste tube, ( Not the Spray Can ) because that stuff stand up to all kinds of abuse. Ya you have to tape everything down till it dry's then remove the tape. You are not the only person who complained about their adhesive not sticking. I had a friend who had put on his side roof molding on his car and it kept coming right off. I gave him some of that 3 - M Trim Adhesive in a toothpaste tube, and after 5 years it's still on there and has not come off again, so it should work good for this inside panel too. Great Video.
Thanks for the tip! Good stuff. I hope it helps those who plan on replacing their door inserts. Never thought to even see if there was a tube adhesive. I guess because I already had the spray can. Luckily, both of my panels are still holding on. That one hard corner on both, popped up, but the rest of the inserts are holding good.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Ya my buddy down in Florida was having problems with his molding on the outside top of his roof. it kept coming off when ever it would rain which down there is all the time. I had just had my Suburban repainted and the LT emblem came off so I took it back to the painter who put it back on. Well within a week it came off again so I asked a guy at NAPA what was the best stuff to put it back on with and he sold me a tube of this 3M 08008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08008, Black, 5 oz Tube. The emblem is still on there and now my Suburban needs repainted again, this desert sand is brutal took the clear coat off. Anyway this stuff works great and I have seen several reviews talking about how the silicone that comes with the new panels does not hold. And yes I am doing my panels too. I had done them in my 2009 Ford Shelby and now I have to do my 07 Mustang GT. I traded off the Shelby for a down payment on a 2023 Corvette Stingray. Which I am kind of regretting but I did get all my money back that I paid for it 5 years ago, so atleast I ain't out of anything on it. The Shelby was alot faster on the start, but the Vette is faster up top. The Shelby was 882 HP with matching torque but after about 140 it does not do to well. And that is where the Vettes really starting to take off. I live in the middle of the desert 100 miles out side of Vegas with long highways and everyone opens up in Mexico. LOL!!!! and if you don't use good emblem glue all your emblems they blow right off. HA! HA! HA! and they are lost to the desert, forever. 3M 08008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08008, Black, 5 oz Tube
@@kurtvara4918 LOL good stuff! That's funny about the emblems flying off lol. So I take it the Shelby would beat the Vette in a 1/4 mile straight up. I'm still saving for an R34 GTR. Dreams! lol Thanks for sharing the adhesive model number. I'll remember that if I ever have to run into those panels again.
@@EverythingInBetween22 My son inlaw has a NSX I think R35 ya my Shelby was far from stock had the Kennie Bell 3.6 Super Charger, Mamouth intake N gauge tuner, Corsica exhaust X pipe all stainless, rear and trany were really built up and a McCloud 1200 HP clutch aluminum flywheel. 882 HP and the torque was with in 10 points all the way up to 6,300 RPM's, Whatts Link set up, even with the Nitto tire's that thing would still get away from you. I'll be putting the twin turbo's on the Vette after a while. The Vettes are just more controllable and lighter. The Shelby was almost 3,900 pounds. The Vette is about 3,500
I think the Two Faced Tape was a Hell of a Good Idea ,lot less mess and seems to hold better i wonder if using Adhesion Promotor would have helped more ?
great video! thanks for taking the time to do this well-informed video you gave me some great ideas Iam going to hot weld some clips with epoxy in the key places you and others have pointed out as being a problem child to this install thank again .
Yea, the door I used with silicone adhesive and 2 sided tape, is not sticking that well in a couple spots... mainly the corners. I might do a video, removing that door panel and redo'ing it again, but with the silicone adhesive only and see what happens.
*Attempt this WITHOUT removing the felt backing, first, and if it doesn't work, THEN attempt removing the felt backing* This panel is "supposed" to be able to go OVER the felt backing... This generation Mustang is notorious for this happening. Have you had to do this to your Mustang? How well did it work and how easy or difficult was it for you?
Go for it! I hope you have better luck than I did. Just prep real good and make sure you have C-clamps or a bunch of heavy stuff to hold it down while the adhesive dries. They look ok, but I'd rather have the look of fabric/upholstery. Let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for the video! I'm just about to start this job myself. Coincidentally, ours is also a 2008 and it's my daughter's car. The car is low mileage, less than 55K, so I want this to be a long-term solution. After watching you work, I'm worried about the adhesive from Coverlay. RTV should set up pretty hard in 24-48 hours. I guess the big decisions to make about these inserts are whether to remove the felt backing like you did (most videos don't do that) and how best to stick the Coverlays down. Spray adhesive is all junk IME, and double-sided tape won't stick to felt. Maybe I should test the RTV from Coverlay to see if it's as weak as what you received. You know, one of the problems I'm seeing in videos is that the inserts don't fit as well as they should. A lot of people have trouble with the two bottom corners alternately popping up. LOL, in one video, the guy even cut the the strip apart at the bottom to keep that from happening. I need to check the fit on mine before I get too far into this. I'd rather send them back and hire a shop if there's a problem like that. Thanks again, very helpful!
I'm sure the RTV silicone will work if you use c-clamps to hold the edges down and put heavy stuff on the large center area and leave it to dry no less than 8 hours (definitely clamp those corners). I couldn't get the RTV to adhere to the felt, which is why I removed it, to reveal the plastic, since plastic to plastic adhesion is better. I believe the 3M 90 strength spray adhesive along with the RTV silicone, stuck pretty well plastic to plastic (maybe one can't live without the other in this application?) Removing that felt backing did make my Coverlay fit a little better than just going over on top of it.... and if you don't want to remove the felt backing piece, I'm sure the RTV (plus commercial spray adhesive) will work just fine. Just sand the felt side real good after removing the vinyl part that's coming off. Like I said, make sure to clamp the edges down, every 6 inches or so around the edge and no less than 8 hours to dry. It's a job to say the least. Good luck bud and please let us know how your installation goes. I'd really love to know what you did and how it went. Nice job on the mileage, too! We're just cracking 100k, which still isn't bad considering the city limit driving its been through.
@@EverythingInBetween22 I talked to Coverlay customer service this morning for more advice before starting the job. They say there's no reason to remove the felt backing unless it's already coming loose. It doesn't affect the fit of the new inserts. They also said there was a bad batch of RTV not long ago due to supply problems. Maybe that's the stuff that came with your inserts. If so, it would explain why you had so much trouble. I have one door panel off the car right now, and I'm cleaning off old glue from a "repair" by the previous owner. Maybe I'll squeeze out a drop of the RTV and let it cure overnight while I'm doing this, just for a test.
@@TriodeLuvr It would have been nice to at least been notified by the MFG, even if it was after the fact, about the RTV adhesive. I may have given a different view of these things in the video. You can go to your auto parts store and purchase an RTV adhesive if you're iffy about it... careful. I had no ill-intentions of bad-mouthing this product (and I'm not), just giving my perspective with what was given to me. I truly hope my issue was isolated to a select few if it was the RTV adhesive and I hope you have an easier time than I did. Good luck and let us all know how things went.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Didn't think you were bad-mouthing the Coverlays, just being factual. My RTV tested OK, cured pretty hard within about 8-10 hours. Turns out though that the driver side felt has been saturated with some type of adhesive by the previous owner, probably a spray, and it's permanently sticky. There's no way anything is going to adhere to it, so I'll need to remove everything like you did. More work. :( FWIW, I've been researching adhesives that might be better for this, mainly because RTV is really more of a sealant than an adhesive. What I came up with for use on ABS plastic is Eclectic Products E6100 ( a thick version of their E6000) and 3M 5200 FC (fast cure version of standard 5200). None of the stores near me stock either one, but both are readily available online. Just food for thought.
@@TriodeLuvr Well, that sux. Try masking off the actual door panel and use a wire brush on the felt, first. Unless you think it can't be saved. Yea, I didn't have the luxury of time and needed to get it done quick, so searching for alternatives wasn't an option, but I knew about the trim adhesive tape and got that. So far, both doors are holding up the same as shown at the end of the video. I'll definitely update if either of them fail.
Man I just got mine in the mail and didn’t realized it’s just plastic I thought it was close to original as possible. Wish I would of seen this video before I got them. $180 is way too much for this plastic! Going to see if I can return mine
Hey, removed the felt padding from my 08 GT. Struggling to remove the epoxy and leftover felt bits. I wanted to just make it smooth plastic like the non premium mustangs have. Not sure if it's possible. Sanding I'm sure would leave scratches in the plastic. Guess I could paint it or use plasti dip for texture if it's not smooth after. Any chemical strippers work to remove it? Thanks
I would try and use very high grit sandpaper and maybe do wet sanding, to see if that helps achieve the look you're going for. The OEM adhesive is on there pretty good and not sure how smooth you'll be able to get the plastic to look. I didn't try going that route. I personally wouldn't try and hide imperfections with paint or plasti dip. I mean you could try, but it may take several layers to get a smooth finish. I didn't use any chemicals to fully remove those little pieces, but you could try Goo Gone or similar chemical and let it soak for a bit and see if a plastic scraper will remove it. Take your time bud and let us know how it goes!
I am glad to finally see an honest video of this. So many of the other vids are sketchy with none of the details about how poor these inserts are. These panels are just not worth the cost and labor. They are cheap plastic and do not fit the door. If you remove the felt from behind the original panels you lose sound proofing and moisture barrier and end up with more road noise. Your best bet is a good upholstery shop.
@@jayhuff239 Thanks, and I concur! Upholstery shop is the best bet. May cost a lil more, but I believe it's worth it. The DIY mindset got the better of me on this project. 😆
Great video. A bit long but a lot of good detail. Agree with your approach as far as starting from a clean surface and removing the panel from the door. Agree with your solution of the template and pins to attach. The video on coverlay does not remove the underlying felt. Wonder if that is the extra distance needed for the fit. I have yet to install the ones I bought but did take your advice on the tape and may try it. Thanks again for the honest video.
Two small sections of mine started to come up on the panel using the tape. I used Starbond CA glue and now it's not going anywhere! :) Should have used that to begin with. CA glue works wonders!
Any thoughts on using “3M Super 77 Multipurpose Permanent Spray Adhesive Glue, Paper, Cardboard, Fabric, Plastic, Metal, Wood, “ if I leave some of the felt and clean the plastic overlay. I may slit the plastic to relief some of the tolerance issues.
@@drz400sy8 From what I was experiencing, the spray adhesive alone was not holding, even clamping it for a couple hours; even after spraying both parts and letting it tack up for about 30sec. As far as tolerance issues, if you have a dremel, you may need to chip away the "inner front curve" part that wraps right around the power controls. That turn is a little too close.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Thanks for the info. I went back to see what you used and it looked like 3M 90. I was also going to try both sides with one felt and the other plastic. I saw someone use wood cement type glue! Will have to test it a bit. A bit unbelievable that this can’t be easier than what I am seeing.
@@drz400sy8 Yup, when the tolerances are not perfect, all kinds of issues can arise and from the looks of all the ones I've seen on here, that seems to be the case. I was just hoping that I got lucky LOL. This might be the "perfect" panel replacement, but it definitely wasn't the perfect/easiest install.
Very thorough , I appreciate your video. I wanted to try this on my 05 but after watching yours I believe I'll find an upholstery shop. My luck doesn't justify the struggles. Those corners would break me lol. Many thanks to you and I hope your panels are holding up.
My bad, didn't realize my reply never went through. The panels are technically holding up. A couple of the corners have lifted up on BOTH panels, but you can't really tell unless you're looking for them. I will head to an upholstery shop if these panels completely fail over time. Of course, they look better than the old ones with the vinyl peeling away but the pain to get to this point was ughh! lol
Using the 3m tape u should also use the Adhesive promoter to help bond them together..
That would definitely help but I didn't have any adhesive promoter and needed to get this done asap. Thanks for bringing that up though.
There is actually a 3 - M Glue Remover and once you pull up the felt backing use the Glue remover to help clean every thing up so the new Cover goes on a clean panel. I am using the the 3 - M exterior trim adhesive in a toothpaste tube, ( Not the Spray Can ) because that stuff stand up to all kinds of abuse. Ya you have to tape everything down till it dry's then remove the tape. You are not the only person who complained about their adhesive not sticking. I had a friend who had put on his side roof molding on his car and it kept coming right off. I gave him some of that 3 - M Trim Adhesive in a toothpaste tube, and after 5 years it's still on there and has not come off again, so it should work good for this inside panel too. Great Video.
Thanks for the tip! Good stuff. I hope it helps those who plan on replacing their door inserts. Never thought to even see if there was a tube adhesive. I guess because I already had the spray can. Luckily, both of my panels are still holding on. That one hard corner on both, popped up, but the rest of the inserts are holding good.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Ya my buddy down in Florida was having problems with his molding on the outside top of his roof. it kept coming off when ever it would rain which down there is all the time. I had just had my Suburban repainted and the LT emblem came off so I took it back to the painter who put it back on. Well within a week it came off again so I asked a guy at NAPA what was the best stuff to put it back on with and he sold me a tube of this 3M 08008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08008, Black, 5 oz Tube. The emblem is still on there and now my Suburban needs repainted again, this desert sand is brutal took the clear coat off. Anyway this stuff works great and I have seen several reviews talking about how the silicone that comes with the new panels does not hold. And yes I am doing my panels too. I had done them in my 2009 Ford Shelby and now I have to do my 07 Mustang GT. I traded off the Shelby for a down payment on a 2023 Corvette Stingray. Which I am kind of regretting but I did get all my money back that I paid for it 5 years ago, so atleast I ain't out of anything on it. The Shelby was alot faster on the start, but the Vette is faster up top. The Shelby was 882 HP with matching torque but after about 140 it does not do to well. And that is where the Vettes really starting to take off. I live in the middle of the desert 100 miles out side of Vegas with long highways and everyone opens up in Mexico. LOL!!!! and if you don't use good emblem glue all your emblems they blow right off. HA! HA! HA! and they are lost to the desert, forever. 3M 08008 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08008, Black, 5 oz Tube
@@kurtvara4918 LOL good stuff! That's funny about the emblems flying off lol. So I take it the Shelby would beat the Vette in a 1/4 mile straight up. I'm still saving for an R34 GTR. Dreams! lol Thanks for sharing the adhesive model number. I'll remember that if I ever have to run into those panels again.
@@EverythingInBetween22 My son inlaw has a NSX I think R35 ya my Shelby was far from stock had the Kennie Bell 3.6 Super Charger, Mamouth intake N gauge tuner, Corsica exhaust X pipe all stainless, rear and trany were really built up and a McCloud 1200 HP clutch aluminum flywheel. 882 HP and the torque was with in 10 points all the way up to 6,300 RPM's, Whatts Link set up, even with the Nitto tire's that thing would still get away from you. I'll be putting the twin turbo's on the Vette after a while. The Vettes are just more controllable and lighter. The Shelby was almost 3,900 pounds. The Vette is about 3,500
@@kurtvara4918 🤯 I need a next door neighbor like you! LoL 😆
I think the Two Faced Tape was a Hell of a Good Idea ,lot less mess and seems to hold better i wonder if using Adhesion Promotor would have helped more ?
@@wesleygeorge6806 Thanks, and I would think the adhesion promoter would help. I would try but we sold it shortly after.
great video! thanks for taking the time to do this well-informed video you gave me some great ideas Iam going to hot weld some clips with epoxy in the key places you and others have pointed out as being a problem child to this install thank again .
Thanks... Love that idea! Let us know how it goes! Hot welding clips with epoxy sounds interesting.
i used adhesive silicone and 2 sided tape that was 2 years ago it still holding.
Yea, the door I used with silicone adhesive and 2 sided tape, is not sticking that well in a couple spots... mainly the corners. I might do a video, removing that door panel and redo'ing it again, but with the silicone adhesive only and see what happens.
*Attempt this WITHOUT removing the felt backing, first, and if it doesn't work, THEN attempt removing the felt backing* This panel is "supposed" to be able to go OVER the felt backing...
This generation Mustang is notorious for this happening. Have you had to do this to your Mustang? How well did it work and how easy or difficult was it for you?
Do you have a link to the replacement for panels
@@carlmazziotti221 I have a link in the description to a cheaper version. I got the originals from coverlaymfg website.
Great informative video I’m about to try and tackle this project on my 05 gt
Go for it! I hope you have better luck than I did. Just prep real good and make sure you have C-clamps or a bunch of heavy stuff to hold it down while the adhesive dries. They look ok, but I'd rather have the look of fabric/upholstery. Let us know how it turns out!
Thanks for the video! I'm just about to start this job myself. Coincidentally, ours is also a 2008 and it's my daughter's car. The car is low mileage, less than 55K, so I want this to be a long-term solution. After watching you work, I'm worried about the adhesive from Coverlay. RTV should set up pretty hard in 24-48 hours. I guess the big decisions to make about these inserts are whether to remove the felt backing like you did (most videos don't do that) and how best to stick the Coverlays down. Spray adhesive is all junk IME, and double-sided tape won't stick to felt. Maybe I should test the RTV from Coverlay to see if it's as weak as what you received. You know, one of the problems I'm seeing in videos is that the inserts don't fit as well as they should. A lot of people have trouble with the two bottom corners alternately popping up. LOL, in one video, the guy even cut the the strip apart at the bottom to keep that from happening. I need to check the fit on mine before I get too far into this. I'd rather send them back and hire a shop if there's a problem like that. Thanks again, very helpful!
I'm sure the RTV silicone will work if you use c-clamps to hold the edges down and put heavy stuff on the large center area and leave it to dry no less than 8 hours (definitely clamp those corners). I couldn't get the RTV to adhere to the felt, which is why I removed it, to reveal the plastic, since plastic to plastic adhesion is better. I believe the 3M 90 strength spray adhesive along with the RTV silicone, stuck pretty well plastic to plastic (maybe one can't live without the other in this application?) Removing that felt backing did make my Coverlay fit a little better than just going over on top of it.... and if you don't want to remove the felt backing piece, I'm sure the RTV (plus commercial spray adhesive) will work just fine. Just sand the felt side real good after removing the vinyl part that's coming off. Like I said, make sure to clamp the edges down, every 6 inches or so around the edge and no less than 8 hours to dry. It's a job to say the least. Good luck bud and please let us know how your installation goes. I'd really love to know what you did and how it went. Nice job on the mileage, too! We're just cracking 100k, which still isn't bad considering the city limit driving its been through.
@@EverythingInBetween22 I talked to Coverlay customer service this morning for more advice before starting the job. They say there's no reason to remove the felt backing unless it's already coming loose. It doesn't affect the fit of the new inserts. They also said there was a bad batch of RTV not long ago due to supply problems. Maybe that's the stuff that came with your inserts. If so, it would explain why you had so much trouble. I have one door panel off the car right now, and I'm cleaning off old glue from a "repair" by the previous owner. Maybe I'll squeeze out a drop of the RTV and let it cure overnight while I'm doing this, just for a test.
@@TriodeLuvr It would have been nice to at least been notified by the MFG, even if it was after the fact, about the RTV adhesive. I may have given a different view of these things in the video. You can go to your auto parts store and purchase an RTV adhesive if you're iffy about it... careful. I had no ill-intentions of bad-mouthing this product (and I'm not), just giving my perspective with what was given to me. I truly hope my issue was isolated to a select few if it was the RTV adhesive and I hope you have an easier time than I did. Good luck and let us all know how things went.
@@EverythingInBetween22 Didn't think you were bad-mouthing the Coverlays, just being factual. My RTV tested OK, cured pretty hard within about 8-10 hours. Turns out though that the driver side felt has been saturated with some type of adhesive by the previous owner, probably a spray, and it's permanently sticky. There's no way anything is going to adhere to it, so I'll need to remove everything like you did. More work. :( FWIW, I've been researching adhesives that might be better for this, mainly because RTV is really more of a sealant than an adhesive. What I came up with for use on ABS plastic is Eclectic Products E6100 ( a thick version of their E6000) and 3M 5200 FC (fast cure version of standard 5200). None of the stores near me stock either one, but both are readily available online. Just food for thought.
@@TriodeLuvr Well, that sux. Try masking off the actual door panel and use a wire brush on the felt, first. Unless you think it can't be saved. Yea, I didn't have the luxury of time and needed to get it done quick, so searching for alternatives wasn't an option, but I knew about the trim adhesive tape and got that. So far, both doors are holding up the same as shown at the end of the video. I'll definitely update if either of them fail.
Man I just got mine in the mail and didn’t realized it’s just plastic I thought it was close to original as possible. Wish I would of seen this video before I got them. $180 is way too much for this plastic! Going to see if I can return mine
Totally agree, bud. Wish I would have spent more to have the originals upholstered. 😪 but we're selling the Stang soon anyway, oh well...
This was a very good video for me.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Hey, removed the felt padding from my 08 GT. Struggling to remove the epoxy and leftover felt bits. I wanted to just make it smooth plastic like the non premium mustangs have. Not sure if it's possible. Sanding I'm sure would leave scratches in the plastic. Guess I could paint it or use plasti dip for texture if it's not smooth after. Any chemical strippers work to remove it? Thanks
I would try and use very high grit sandpaper and maybe do wet sanding, to see if that helps achieve the look you're going for. The OEM adhesive is on there pretty good and not sure how smooth you'll be able to get the plastic to look. I didn't try going that route. I personally wouldn't try and hide imperfections with paint or plasti dip. I mean you could try, but it may take several layers to get a smooth finish. I didn't use any chemicals to fully remove those little pieces, but you could try Goo Gone or similar chemical and let it soak for a bit and see if a plastic scraper will remove it. Take your time bud and let us know how it goes!
He is right...if you dont take the backing off, the ovelays wont fit, and if you replace using leather it wont last.
We sold the Stang shortly after this vid, but we know the person and keep tabs on it from time to time and she is doing well. lol
Findly some good info
Thanks
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a link to the panel inserts you purchased?
you can find them on the coverlaymfg website. They are cheaper there.
@@EverythingInBetween22 thank you I’m wanting to do this to my door panels it looks clean and looks like it would last longer and more durable.
@@nathanbailey3933 Good luck and I hope it goes well for you, bud! Once you get past the painful prep and installation, it'll all be worth it! :)