I have a H15, didn’t use it yet, doesn’t charge, blows fuse. Ignition coil went up in smoke, something back feed through the ground wire. Replaced the coil. I did install a thumb, add a grease fitting where it pivots, add quick couplers. The blade arms in the back need 45* fittings. Installed 4 latches for the back cover, hinges on one side and latches on the other would work. I like your upgrades. I had Sherwin Williams match the paint, wait for the 40% off. I got the oil cooler and filter online, 6 hydraulic places didn’t carry metric fittings. The cooler is British threads and the filter NPT threads. Thanks for your video.
Hello, the hydraulic oil level is a kind of thermometer-like bar located on the right side with two numbers (one with the letter C that goes from 20 to 100, and the other with the letter F that goes from 20 to 200. Where should the oil level be? Regards.
I took all the pins out of the boom and greased them as the only place my H15 had been greased was the slew ring. Everything else was dry and showed signs of corrosion.
Question for you: I also have an AGT H15 and plan on installing a cooling fan and hydraulic cooler. When I crunch the numbers both fans would draw about 120 watts or 10 amps at 12V. Everything I have read has the charging output on the Rato 420 at 3 amps. Have you noticed your battery discharging over time when running it? Just curious. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. I only check this account occasionally. I haven't checked the amp draw of the two fans I have, but I haven't had any issues with power. I've run it for 6+ hours and the battery never went below 13v that I saw, which just means it was charging the whole time from the magneto. When its not in use for a week or more I do put it on a trickle charger to keep the battery up.
Well funny story. After installing the hydraulic cooler I ran about 5 hours and when I went to restart the next morning the battery was dead. I figured the stock charging system was insufficient and ordered a 25 amp system from Big Block Clones. When I went to install it I discovered that the factory system had the same 6 magnet setup as the upgrade and that the reason it wasn’t charging was due to a blown fuse. (That’s what I get for assuming without first testing.). I put it back together with the factory parts and now it shows 13-14V with both fans running. I guess I lucked out getting such a robust charging system from the factory.
I rarely comment but I have to on this one. The filter needs to be on the return side of the hydraulic system, not the suction side (between the control valve and the tank). If the filter starts to plug or the oil is cold, it will cavitate the pump, the pump is not designed to suck oil through a filter. The point of the filter is to keep the oil reservoir from being contaminated.
Agreed not an ideal setup. The filter has a 15psi bypass if it gets clogged so we shouldn't have an issue there. The pump is lower than the oil radiator and tank, so it should not cavitate as it is the lowest entity/part without any restrictive flow (pressure) from the hydraulic tank or radiator/filter. Oil should always be able to free flow to prevent vapor issues. I hear what you are saying on the placement of the oil filter, but i'm not sure how much difference it really makes for something cheap like this. The hydraulic systems is closed - nothing in or out, so all we are really filtering is anything that gets loose inside the closed system. The tank has its own filter as well. I'm honestly not sure a filter is even required/needed. Now if I was buying a $50k+ machine that would last 10+ years of heavy use I'd probably be more concerned on getting it just right, but for $5k and light use I believe it will be good enough.
True, but outside air is blowing into the engine compartment from the other fan. When they are both running I'm not seeing over 150F when running the machine hard. I have it positioned this way so I could easily clean off the radiator grate from debris, dust, etc. Installing the opposite direction wouldn't allow me to do so without taking off a side panel. The unit also wouldn't fit on the opposite side.
Great video. Appreciate the work you put into it with all the links and update. Good luck with your channel!
I have a H15, didn’t use it yet, doesn’t charge, blows fuse.
Ignition coil went up in smoke, something back feed through the ground wire. Replaced the coil.
I did install a thumb, add a grease fitting where it pivots, add quick couplers.
The blade arms in the back need 45* fittings.
Installed 4 latches for the back cover, hinges on one side and latches on the other would work.
I like your upgrades.
I had Sherwin Williams match the paint, wait for the 40% off.
I got the oil cooler and filter online, 6 hydraulic places didn’t carry metric fittings.
The cooler is British threads and the filter NPT threads.
Thanks for your video.
ThreadTool Supply part number 9235-27x1.5-12 This is a 27mm x 1.5 pitch to 3/4 NPT adapter part number
Well done! Looking to get one soon. Thanks for the video!
What fittings did you buy for the oil cooler and where did you buy them?
Hello, the hydraulic oil level is a kind of thermometer-like bar located on the right side with two numbers (one with the letter C that goes from 20 to 100, and the other with the letter F that goes from 20 to 200. Where should the oil level be? Regards.
I took all the pins out of the boom and greased them as the only place my H15 had been greased was the slew ring. Everything else was dry and showed signs of corrosion.
Nice job.
Question for you: I also have an AGT H15 and plan on installing a cooling fan and hydraulic cooler. When I crunch the numbers both fans would draw about 120 watts or 10 amps at 12V. Everything I have read has the charging output on the Rato 420 at 3 amps. Have you noticed your battery discharging over time when running it? Just curious. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. I only check this account occasionally. I haven't checked the amp draw of the two fans I have, but I haven't had any issues with power. I've run it for 6+ hours and the battery never went below 13v that I saw, which just means it was charging the whole time from the magneto. When its not in use for a week or more I do put it on a trickle charger to keep the battery up.
Well funny story. After installing the hydraulic cooler I ran about 5 hours and when I went to restart the next morning the battery was dead. I figured the stock charging system was insufficient and ordered a 25 amp system from Big Block Clones. When I went to install it I discovered that the factory system had the same 6 magnet setup as the upgrade and that the reason it wasn’t charging was due to a blown fuse. (That’s what I get for assuming without first testing.). I put it back together with the factory parts and now it shows 13-14V with both fans running. I guess I lucked out getting such a robust charging system from the factory.
I rarely comment but I have to on this one. The filter needs to be on the return side of the hydraulic system, not the suction side (between the control valve and the tank). If the filter starts to plug or the oil is cold, it will cavitate the pump, the pump is not designed to suck oil through a filter. The point of the filter is to keep the oil reservoir from being contaminated.
Agreed not an ideal setup. The filter has a 15psi bypass if it gets clogged so we shouldn't have an issue there. The pump is lower than the oil radiator and tank, so it should not cavitate as it is the lowest entity/part without any restrictive flow (pressure) from the hydraulic tank or radiator/filter. Oil should always be able to free flow to prevent vapor issues. I hear what you are saying on the placement of the oil filter, but i'm not sure how much difference it really makes for something cheap like this. The hydraulic systems is closed - nothing in or out, so all we are really filtering is anything that gets loose inside the closed system. The tank has its own filter as well. I'm honestly not sure a filter is even required/needed. Now if I was buying a $50k+ machine that would last 10+ years of heavy use I'd probably be more concerned on getting it just right, but for $5k and light use I believe it will be good enough.
You are sucking hot air from the engine through the oil cooler
True, but outside air is blowing into the engine compartment from the other fan. When they are both running I'm not seeing over 150F when running the machine hard. I have it positioned this way so I could easily clean off the radiator grate from debris, dust, etc. Installing the opposite direction wouldn't allow me to do so without taking off a side panel. The unit also wouldn't fit on the opposite side.