You have that .ixed up with Volkswagen. Before it meant the people's car in german it meant electric problems and vehicle fires before cars were invented. I'm sure it's in some book from the gods somewhere
Ok use a conductive grease and short out your circuit. Lol. When used properly dielectric grease prevents corrosion thus ensuring a lasting connection. Any certified technician like myself uses it daily. If they care about their work.
@@jordancouchman8429 Don't put grease on the contacts, period. You put it on connector bodies, spark plug boots, etc. NOT on contacts. Glad you don't work on my vehicle.
That is not conductive, most use it wrong and it will only make the problem worse. It is meant to be put on the outside of the joint, to protect against corrosion.
That wouldn’t help. Dielectric grease is non electrically conductive, it’s good if moisture it causing your problem and you need to stop moisture from getting into the socket. Which if moisture is getting into the socket, it need changed. But a good place to use dielectric grease is on your license plate light bulbs and sockets, sometimes even good sockets can allow moisture through when they’re constantly bombarded by the elements, and trailer plugs/sockets and spark plug/boots. The later prevents the boot from sticking to the ceramic insulator of the plug, and also insulation breakdown due to dirt and moisture getting between the boot and ceramic insulation
That is caused by a loose connection, there is poor contact between the bulb and the terminal in the connector, this generates resistance and thus heat, you can clean and respring the terminal or replace the whole thing, either way works, not doing so will affect the entire wiring harness.
@@largemarge1603 Dielectric grease is often used for battery terminals to prevent fusing and corrosion as well as high-energy ignition systems to prevent voltage leakage; however, it can also be used in combination with other various terminals and connectors, such as butt connectors, ring, spade, and heat shrink terminals.
Explain how a non-conductive barrier helps electricity flow? It will make it worse, it doesn't make a better connection, it makes a worse connection using it like that. It is supposed to be used on the outside of the connection to prevent corrosion, thats it. Amazing how many people spread this common misconception with confidence when they don't know the basics (day one) of electricity.
@@fckjoebdn1776 corrosion is what caused it in the first place, dissimilar metals need this barrier or you will get corrosion which causes arcing, then burning, then replacement is needed. Dielectric grease will not rebuild what is toast. Modern cars have better water management so only the battery which heats and cools needs this grease in most cases. Older cars this is a bigger issue. In his vid you can even see how behind the tail light is dirty, wet and not sealed as say a Toyota would be.
You know what else can help automotive bulbs and sockets to not burn out so fast? Don't touch the glass with your bare hands, use a clean disposable glove if you must touch the glass or handle from the base. Seriously, natural skin oils that are deposited on the glass from your fingers touching them create a barley visible oil spot that catches a lot of heat from the filament that should be dissipating into the fixture. This is especially true for headlights. If you keep touching the glass with your bare hands, that alone will have you changing them every 2 or 3 months.
Only need to do this if the are quartz iodine (headlight bulbs) where the QI is the "glass"...any fingerprint on that will concentrate the heat and blow the bulb. Wash with methylated spirits if you inadvertently contact the surface with your skin.. Small taillight or marker/indicator bulbs don't need that care...which is why you can stick the bulbs into the holders by using your fingers to put pressure on the ordinary glass exterior of the bulb..
Had this problem with my cobalt on one of the headlights.. cleaned it out with 99% alcohol and that worked for a few days but then it started going out again so i just replaced the entire socket. Not a single problem since then 😂
You can buy LED replacement bulbs with the same plug end as the stock bulbs. They last longer, and won’t get hot and burn out. I did have to change my turn signal relay for one that’s LED compatible to avoid the hyper flashing, since LEDs use less power draw.
😮yes it's a loose connection, that just keeps getting worst. But just replace the socket. And or, clean the sockets contacts and use a bent pick and spring them back out. Also pull the tiny wire contacts out a bit from the glass bulb, its a good idea to put dielectric grease in the socket to keep moisture and tarnish away, especially if they are copper contacts. Its mostly always a loose connection, or tarnished contacts, not the heat generated from the bulb.
What I do on all the bulbs of that type(3157) not the 1157 twist ones,but the wires flat near the bulb is to put a bump in the wires with a pick so it's } like that on both sides stop them as I've done many like that.
i had a taillight that would go off intermittently, could lightly smack and it would work again. i figured it was a loose connection, but the loose connection turned out to be the bulb filament. never seen a bulb do that. filament was loose and would work when touching. i figured theyd burn to a crisp the second they dont connect. on a brand new 22 tacoma
Removal of tail light assembly; was it difficult to pull it back from the body? Had a difficult one to pull before, smear some white lithium grease on the plastic nipples and grommets and it helps to install and remove, also slip a shoelace around the light assembly and pull rearward both lace ends like handles. Works really well to pull tail light out.
Cars used 1157 and 1156 bulbs for 4+ decades before these crappy plastic based bulbs came out, and we've been changing bulbs up a storm ever since. I also miss sealed-beam headlights.
Its due being sat in traffic with your foot on the brake pedal for extended periods, the bulb gets super hot then struggles with the ground as the heat affects the spring effect on the bulb!👍
I used dialectric Greece on my connections when I put in those bulbs. It keeps it from arcing where the connection is made that's usually where the burn out starts
When you tighten connections, just a little hook pick pulling out the metal to make better contact and adding dielectric grease. You can get a lot more life out of older cars when socket start looking like this versus splicing wires.
Meaning lose connection. 2 things you can do. 1. Get a pick tool and pry the socket prong outward. 2 . Pry the light prong outward. The loose connection is causing an arc
@@bigwolfe87 which was under engineered. the wiring connection draws more current than the socket is rated to handle. you have 2 choices reduce the load or improve the wiring/socket.
@@bigwolfe87 I put them in my blinkers and my headlights and after replacing the new and had the shorting out or overheating cuz the grease catch that cool keeps it from shorting out
What's happening is that it's not making a very good contact so it's arcing which is creating heat. Dig in there and adjust the contact prongs or a replace the socket.
You are not wrong man, these new bulbs seem to be made so cheap these days. I swapped out for some LEDs now, hoping to swap to the factory LED tailights soon.
That burning is from the break light part of the bulb. Automotive engineers think that the break light is on only momentary..... So, When sitting in traffic for long periods of time, holding the break, things start to get really hot.
bit of dialetic grease solves that as its heat resistance i find a lot of pick ups and 4x4's blow bulbs due to harsh vibrations as the element heats and becomes stretched and when cools becomes fragile and then vibration snaps the filament
Well, most of the time why that happens is because the ground wire is not making a very good ground because everything on plastic is positive ground and usually you have to run a heavy ground wire to stop that
Not these types, these do not get that hot & if they somehow do don’t worry because catching on fire & burning to the rails is a feature of dodge, not a bug
that only applies to high wattage halogen and HID bulbs the oil transfer from the skin doesnt effect this type of bulb as these smaller bulbs are argon gas and not as hot
@@bigwolfe87yes. I was a mechanical in a fleet full of these trucks and we stocked replacements. Long term- look for a complete replacement imo. I am not a fan of aftermarket LED taillights but in this case, I would
Chrysler products are all like this. It’s arcing. I put a piece of aluminum foil on the one side that is arcing and I never had to replace the bulb again.
What's missing from that equation? There should be three components, involved in that system. What component is missing? Condensation is why, the bulb keeps blowing. It's not condensating on the inside. It's condensating on the outside. Condensation, is forming, because there is a component missing... What is it? And if you look close enough, you'll be able to see, it was never put in from the factory.
Im surprised with a RAM that new that it didn't have LEDs causing you to buy a whole new taillight assembly, but an LED probably wouldn't burn out like that in the firat place.
I had the same problem with my Dodge Ram 1500 2002 it would burn out the light bulbs out and the problem it was causing it was the fuse it had the wrong number on it
It is all started by vibration. Stop the lights vibrating and the bulbs won't blow. Take that from a Lexus owner, 1.000.000+ miles on same bulbs from new.
@@bigwolfe87 Hello, it was bought by my father in late 1990 or early 91. LS 400. He had it until his death in 2005. I had it then for 15years. Then it had to go back to the UK. as ilegal here. Now my son uses it on the farm to take the kids to school. That's a mile of rough track each way. It's beginning to rot away now, but has been a wonderful car. We also recently scrapped a Nissan Cabstar with over 1M miles and still have a 45 year old Land Rover and a 35 year old 500.000+ Harley D. My neighbor had an 800.000 mile Toyota Land Cruiser till recently. In Spain many, many cars exceed 500.000. They are expensive here, people hang on to them.!
Yeah thats 100 percent accurate, Im planning on going full LED taillights soon - so its all getting replaced. This was just quick to keep me from getting a ticket lol
If you just replace it, it will just burn up again. Check why it's over powered. Probably a cheap AF bulb or two in the running light circuit. Use German made bulbs, those draw more. From Mercedes or bmw or a sprinter dealer. Those used to be a Mercedes made product and did the same thing. Until we used German bulbs.
You know, almost every time I use that stuff and love it for that exact reason - but I was in a rush and plan on swapping these tail lights so I didn't even grab a packet by mistake. BUT that stuff is awesome right?
that only applies to high wattage halogen and HID bulbs the oil transfer from the skin doesnt effect this type of bulb as these smaller bulbs are argon gas and not as hot
Put those stupid LED's in it... traffic driving causes a high amperage draw and over heating... you're constantly on the brakes. LED's DO NOT draw as much current.
No matter what this cannot be permanently fixed because if it’s continued to be driven in heavy traffic with the brake light for extended periods of time the same thing will happen to a new socket it will get burnt from the heat There is no permanent everlasting Repair for this problem
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Mopar is an old native American word that translates to electrical problem
HAHAHAHA ok thats funny...
Mostly
Oily
Parts
And
Rust ! ✌️
You have that .ixed up with Volkswagen. Before it meant the people's car in german it meant electric problems and vehicle fires before cars were invented. I'm sure it's in some book from the gods somewhere
Well you know where those wiring harnesses come from
It's not just dodge, it's all them. Made cheap and priced high. My 2001 Ford still has most of its original bulbs.
I see this all the time. I clean the socket and bend the prongs out a little with a pick then put dielectric grease on the contacts. Fixed for free.
Yep, it's overheating because of a bad connection or loose connection to be precise.
Clean it, pull prongs out, jobs a gooden
So you put a non-conductive insulator material on the contacts? Yeah, that will only make the problem worse. 0/10.
Ok use a conductive grease and short out your circuit. Lol. When used properly dielectric grease prevents corrosion thus ensuring a lasting connection. Any certified technician like myself uses it daily. If they care about their work.
@@jordancouchman8429 Don't put grease on the contacts, period. You put it on connector bodies, spark plug boots, etc. NOT on contacts. Glad you don't work on my vehicle.
@@jordancouchman8429100% do it all time
Dielectric grease is what's needed here...
That is not conductive, most use it wrong and it will only make the problem worse. It is meant to be put on the outside of the joint, to protect against corrosion.
You could use NO OX ID paste instead its conductive.
It looks like a lack of blinker fluid!! which is also used to keep the tail lights cool
@@fckjoebdn1776 still see people use it like lug grease on battery terminals 😂
That wouldn’t help. Dielectric grease is non electrically conductive, it’s good if moisture it causing your problem and you need to stop moisture from getting into the socket. Which if moisture is getting into the socket, it need changed. But a good place to use dielectric grease is on your license plate light bulbs and sockets, sometimes even good sockets can allow moisture through when they’re constantly bombarded by the elements, and trailer plugs/sockets and spark plug/boots. The later prevents the boot from sticking to the ceramic insulator of the plug, and also insulation breakdown due to dirt and moisture getting between the boot and ceramic insulation
That is caused by a loose connection, there is poor contact between the bulb and the terminal in the connector, this generates resistance and thus heat, you can clean and respring the terminal or replace the whole thing, either way works, not doing so will affect the entire wiring harness.
Yeah, loose connection coming from a bad socket/terminal etc. or even a bad bulb base
Dielectric grease will help stop this from happening.
I used to wrap electrical tape around and above the contact to make a shim of sorts
@@gerrittklashorst7306
Is dielectric grease non-conductive?
@@largemarge1603 Dielectric grease is often used for battery terminals to prevent fusing and corrosion as well as high-energy ignition systems to prevent voltage leakage; however, it can also be used in combination with other various terminals and connectors, such as butt connectors, ring, spade, and heat shrink terminals.
Thanks so much, for explaining it so well.Short and right to the point.I appreciate YOU! This helped me a lot and saved me asking around.
Just clean the terminal and tighten them. Resistance caused heat and the internal terminal is loose.
Spray contact cleaner and clean with a Q Tip to get all the corrosion off the surface...
Use a little dielectric grease that would make the connection better. No need to replace anything.
I usually always do but was in a rush here! Its worth it
Explain how a non-conductive barrier helps electricity flow? It will make it worse, it doesn't make a better connection, it makes a worse connection using it like that. It is supposed to be used on the outside of the connection to prevent corrosion, thats it. Amazing how many people spread this common misconception with confidence when they don't know the basics (day one) of electricity.
@@fckjoebdn1776 corrosion is what caused it in the first place, dissimilar metals need this barrier or you will get corrosion which causes arcing, then burning, then replacement is needed. Dielectric grease will not rebuild what is toast. Modern cars have better water management so only the battery which heats and cools needs this grease in most cases. Older cars this is a bigger issue. In his vid you can even see how behind the tail light is dirty, wet and not sealed as say a Toyota would be.
You know what else can help automotive bulbs and sockets to not burn out so fast? Don't touch the glass with your bare hands, use a clean disposable glove if you must touch the glass or handle from the base. Seriously, natural skin oils that are deposited on the glass from your fingers touching them create a barley visible oil spot that catches a lot of heat from the filament that should be dissipating into the fixture. This is especially true for headlights. If you keep touching the glass with your bare hands, that alone will have you changing them every 2 or 3 months.
That's headlights you don't handle with your bare hands goofy.
Tail lights don't get nearly as hot.
Only need to do this if the are quartz iodine (headlight bulbs) where the QI is the "glass"...any fingerprint on that will concentrate the heat and blow the bulb.
Wash with methylated spirits if you inadvertently contact the surface with your skin..
Small taillight or marker/indicator bulbs don't need that care...which is why you can stick the bulbs into the holders by using your fingers to put pressure on the ordinary glass exterior of the bulb..
The oils on your fingers and hands can also cause the bulb to break. After installing ANY bulbs i wipe them down with a microfiber towel.
This is 100 percent true - the oil/dirt can cause faster burn-out on Non-LED bulbs
That only matters for headlights. Flasher bulbs never get hot enough to cause damage from touching them.
@@ZomBeatBrainZ I suggest you use a pointer temp fun and check again. Cause they do get that hot.
Only halogen pal..
@@millertime8835you beat me to it😂
My subaru had the same problem.
Dealer replaced socket under warrentee, .......problem fixed.
There was a service bulletin about it
Nice! Yeah thats my guess too - bad socket. Which isnt that crazy
You can physically bend the prongs on the bulb to achieve a tighter fit of the bulb, thus providing a stronger contact.
I am learning this through guys like you man, gotta love the RUclips!
it's heat from bulb in a plastic socket. you must drive in an area full of traffic signals. ie, stop lights
Wow..My 2002 Chevy S10 sockets still look Brand New..I did R/R ALL my incandescent bulbs to LED & installed Custom Lenses Rear & Front
Had this problem with my cobalt on one of the headlights.. cleaned it out with 99% alcohol and that worked for a few days but then it started going out again so i just replaced the entire socket. Not a single problem since then 😂
You can buy LED replacement bulbs with the same plug end as the stock bulbs. They last longer, and won’t get hot and burn out. I did have to change my turn signal relay for one that’s LED compatible to avoid the hyper flashing, since LEDs use less power draw.
Dang really, the Turn Signal Relay didn't like the LED? What kind of vehicle you got?
@@bigwolfe87 1994 Chevy suburban haha
😮yes it's a loose connection, that just keeps getting worst. But just replace the socket. And or, clean the sockets contacts and use a bent pick and spring them back out. Also pull the tiny wire contacts out a bit from the glass bulb, its a good idea to put dielectric grease in the socket to keep moisture and tarnish away, especially if they are copper contacts. Its mostly always a loose connection, or tarnished contacts, not the heat generated from the bulb.
Bingo, this is the best answer. Usually you can clean the old contacts and that will extend their life.
What I do on all the bulbs of that type(3157) not the 1157 twist ones,but the wires flat near the bulb is to put a bump in the wires with a pick so it's } like that on both sides stop them as I've done many like that.
Really? never thought of this! And it works well?
@@bigwolfe87 it does for me and the vehicles I service,it makes the bulb more secure and keeps it from vibrating
i had a taillight that would go off intermittently, could lightly smack and it would work again. i figured it was a loose connection, but the loose connection turned out to be the bulb filament. never seen a bulb do that. filament was loose and would work when touching. i figured theyd burn to a crisp the second they dont connect.
on a brand new 22 tacoma
You had me at “Ram”
Noooo lol Im ok with a bad bulb over bad trans/turbos/engines right?
Removal of tail light assembly; was it difficult to pull it back from the body? Had a difficult one to pull before, smear some white lithium grease on the plastic nipples and grommets and it helps to install and remove, also slip a shoelace around the light assembly and pull rearward both lace ends like handles. Works really well to pull tail light out.
Cars used 1157 and 1156 bulbs for 4+ decades before these crappy plastic based bulbs came out, and we've been changing bulbs up a storm ever since. I also miss sealed-beam headlights.
It's a ram told me everything I need to know. 😂😂😂
Noooo lol Im ok with a bad bulb over bad trans/turbos/engines right?
Its due being sat in traffic with your foot on the brake pedal for extended periods, the bulb gets super hot then struggles with the ground as the heat affects the spring effect on the bulb!👍
LOL I doooo Live in Orlando... WHERE we just sit in traffic allll the time.
I used dialectric Greece on my connections when I put in those bulbs. It keeps it from arcing where the connection is made that's usually where the burn out starts
When you tighten connections, just a little hook pick pulling out the metal to make better contact and adding dielectric grease. You can get a lot more life out of older cars when socket start looking like this versus splicing wires.
Dang! Thats a solid idea man
Meaning lose connection. 2 things you can do. 1. Get a pick tool and pry the socket prong outward. 2 . Pry the light prong outward. The loose connection is causing an arc
Excellent video
Yes , fixed , it works
Good to hear man!!
check the bulb isle for a lowet wattage bulb.
thats to hot and high wattage bulb for the socket/wiring connection.
Factory bulb
@@bigwolfe87 which was under engineered. the wiring connection draws more current than the socket is rated to handle. you have 2 choices reduce the load or improve the wiring/socket.
@@bigwolfe87 the wiring and socket may have been for low power led lights.
Switch to LED. The heat that damages the connector goes away and solves the issue 😊
Pro tip: LEDs get hot too, chief. Dielectric grease is the only way to go regardless.
Its an intermittent connection that is arcing. A little careful bending and some dielectric grease and it might last forever.
Im learning about this bending portion - more contact right?
Also put some Dielectric grease when you change out the first time then it won't let it do that
Dielectric grease is a bulbs best friend right?
@@bigwolfe87 I put them in my blinkers and my headlights and after replacing the new and had the shorting out or overheating cuz the grease catch that cool keeps it from shorting out
Noalox is a product that makes copper and aluminum compatible, many new cars have aluminum and copper connectors witch are incompatible
interesting for sure
Leds are the way to go! Nice video though!
Thanks man! And you are not wrong LED is the way to go right?
You could buy just the wiring harness replacement it should be good.
Yeah thats what im probably going to do, hopefully plug and play, but worse case- ill just wire it nicely.
What's happening is that it's not making a very good contact so it's arcing which is creating heat.
Dig in there and adjust the contact prongs or a replace the socket.
Thanks man, I will absolutely try this for sure
I try bend the tabs out (if they can) so it tightens the connection.
Yeah Im learning this, you guys rock
That’s exactly it! Thanks!
I hade the same problem with my 07 avalanche headlights you gotta watch what bulbs you put in even some of the more expensive ones are shitty
You are not wrong man, these new bulbs seem to be made so cheap these days. I swapped out for some LEDs now, hoping to swap to the factory LED tailights soon.
Two different issues. Yes the socket is a problem, too much resistance. But that is not causing the bulb to draw too much current.
Thanks brother!
Thank you man!!
That burning is from the break light part of the bulb. Automotive engineers think that the break light is on only momentary.....
So,
When sitting in traffic for long periods of time, holding the break, things start to get really hot.
bit of dialetic grease solves that as its heat resistance i find a lot of pick ups and 4x4's blow bulbs due to harsh vibrations as the element heats and becomes stretched and when cools becomes fragile and then vibration snaps the filament
Really? thats interesting for sure! I wonder why the 4x4s do it more often- just rougher ride?
Had a ‘01 Ram do the same thing. The taillight housing fused with the bulb socket. Never saw such a thing before.
LOL well atleast Dodge has stayed consistent
I really hate incandescent bulbs ,all the new commercial trucks have LEDs you would think dodge etc would get out of the 70s
I cant agree more... they are so cheap too now a days too. LIKE common... don't use these ever again.
Well, most of the time why that happens is because the ground wire is not making a very good ground because everything on plastic is positive ground and usually you have to run a heavy ground wire to stop that
SUPER good input myfriend and I didnt know this!
He explained that it was overheating, but he didn't explain why...
I pointed out the sockets probably bad on my truck, that is probably the cause for me.
Yes same as mine 👌👊💯
Also NEVER touch the new bulbs 💡 w/your bare hands ... 👌
100 percent accurate!
Not these types, these do not get that hot & if they somehow do don’t worry because catching on fire & burning to the rails is a feature of dodge, not a bug
that only applies to high wattage halogen and HID bulbs the oil transfer from the skin doesnt effect this type of bulb as these smaller bulbs are argon gas and not as hot
Or you can just replaced light bulb for a LED which doesn't get hot at all.😊
Just swapped last weekend, they were sold out at the AZ and having the bulb out was drivng me nuts.
led gets just as hot as the resistance in voltage is heat thats why led lights need coolers
What's the name of the led bulb pls.
Use a spray on contact cleaner (it sprays on and cleans contacts) every time you replace a bulb in your car.
One can will last a lifetime...
Spot on, I was in a hurry when I did this - and planned to swap to a LED
Can you please link to a video that explains how I stop my taillight bulb sockets from burning up?. .
YES sir! I will do a follow up on this for sure, stay tuned.
You can buy high temp sockets for a couple bucks more that last forever
THIS is news to me
Check the ground for corrosion, I found Chevy's have a lot of issues with poor grounding.
I live in the south, so no snow or salt - but you NEVER know. Solid idea to double check it right?
I find it funny that many will produce a lightbulb in their vehicle. Just remember the brighter the bulb that are shorter life expectancy. Lol
Somonce the burning starts it draws too many amps to overcome the resistance right. What causes the burning to start in the first place
Yeah I am thinking this is probably just a bad socket. If it burns up again, Im going to replace it
Same issue on 1990s GM trucks
They were famous for these right?
@@bigwolfe87yes.
I was a mechanical in a fleet full of these trucks and we stocked replacements. Long term- look for a complete replacement imo. I am not a fan of aftermarket LED taillights but in this case, I would
Once he said Ram….Say No More Mopar😂🤣😂
NOOOOO lol its a Ram man, ill take a bad bulb over blown trans/motor/turbos lol
Mine stopped working because it actually melted the plastic and the wire on the bulb was smushed into the melted plastic.
Dang!! those are getting hot for sure! Did you fix the socket?
Led bulbs stay cool comparatively
absolutely correct !
I bought my F150 brand new in 2007 never had to replace a bulb yet in 16 years
Yea, but I bet you replaced a hell of a lot of other things.
That’s crazy. They still make cars with filament bulbs in 2019? I haven’t had bulbs since 2006 I think.
UNFORTUNELY lol. Way more out here still than there should be...
Also tells the the man at garage it needs a diagnosis,, with out showlng the engine management light on dash
Chrysler products are all like this. It’s arcing. I put a piece of aluminum foil on the one side that is arcing and I never had to replace the bulb again.
What's missing from that equation?
There should be three components, involved in that system. What component is missing?
Condensation is why, the bulb keeps blowing. It's not condensating on the inside. It's condensating on the outside. Condensation, is forming, because there is a component missing... What is it?
And if you look close enough, you'll be able to see, it was never put in from the factory.
Try LED bulbs, they don't get as hot..
Accurate! I already swapped to these!
Wouldn't a can of contact cleaner workwell for cleaning oils off of the bulb ?
I would think so? That or some glass cleaner I would think
Would a can of contact cleaner workwell for removing left by your hands ?
Do you mean removing grease from the bulb itself left by fingers?
I got a 2500 ram every 4 months 1 or 2 bulbs will burn. Easy fix took off originally junk lights put in led lights . 3 years no more burning bulbs
LED instead of incandescent?
Get leds. They don't get as hot.
Thats what I swapped in recently actually, helped like crazy!
Holding your foot on the brake for extended period of time put it in park at long light changes or switch to less heat LED’s
I live in Orlando man, city of traffic lol. I just swapped to LED
Im surprised with a RAM that new that it didn't have LEDs causing you to buy a whole new taillight assembly, but an LED probably wouldn't burn out like that in the firat place.
I was just as shocked as you man... Why any car newer than 2018 doesnt have LED is beyond me.
I had the same problem with my Dodge Ram 1500 2002 it would burn out the light bulbs out and the problem it was causing it was the fuse it had the wrong number on it
HMMM thats a good idea, i will have to look at mine and double check.
I see cars everyday where drivers are going down road with left foot resting on break pedal. They probably go thru a lot of bulds and pads
I unfortunately just live in SUPER crowded Orlando... where the traffic is always grid locked.
Dielectric grease, anyone? Ask the parts store for a tube of bulb grease.
Always use it, I just was in a rush and planning on swapping the entire tailights to LED soon. Good Stuff
Always take the lights apart and put back together with dilectric grease 😉
accurate my friend, I was in a hurry and planned on swapping to LED shortly lol
I find that a lot of parts house's Sell the wrong bulb's make sure that you get the Correct watt or this will happen and the tellight will melt
It is all started by vibration. Stop the lights vibrating and the bulbs won't blow. Take that from a Lexus owner, 1.000.000+ miles on same bulbs from new.
DUDE. Do you really have a 1M mile lexus? Im obsessed with high mileage cars. I need to know more! LOL how long have you had it???
@@bigwolfe87 Hello, it was bought by my father in late 1990 or early 91. LS 400. He had it until his death in 2005. I had it then for 15years. Then it had to go back to the UK. as ilegal here. Now my son uses it on the farm to take the kids to school. That's a mile of rough track each way. It's beginning to rot away now, but has been a wonderful car. We also recently scrapped a Nissan Cabstar with over 1M miles and still have a 45 year old Land Rover and a 35 year old 500.000+ Harley D.
My neighbor had an 800.000 mile Toyota Land Cruiser till recently. In Spain many, many cars exceed 500.000. They are expensive here, people hang on to them.!
Brake lights burning out because we're Always in that dang old traffic
Replace the socket and install led 💡
Yeah thats 100 percent accurate, Im planning on going full LED taillights soon - so its all getting replaced. This was just quick to keep me from getting a ticket lol
Thanx bro
Always brother, thanks for the support!
Also don't touch them with your bare hands.
After market tail lights arent going to change your wiring harness.
Still under warranty ?
JUST out of warranty... lol OF COURSE right?
If you just replace it, it will just burn up again. Check why it's over powered. Probably a cheap AF bulb or two in the running light circuit. Use German made bulbs, those draw more. From Mercedes or bmw or a sprinter dealer. Those used to be a Mercedes made product and did the same thing. Until we used German bulbs.
yeah kicking over to full LED factory lights and you wack these harnesses - lol so its temp
Chevy do the same , drive lights headlights, taillights but it's not the socket. The wire harness is junk on chevy s.
I feel like alot of newer cars just have cheaper parts these days. Right?
Headlights will do this too
This is accurate! I've lost a couple over the years! How about you?
Use dielectric grease. That cools down the sockets. That’s why new vehicles bulbs don’t burn out as quick.
You know, almost every time I use that stuff and love it for that exact reason - but I was in a rush and plan on swapping these tail lights so I didn't even grab a packet by mistake. BUT that stuff is awesome right?
I have a solution to.its called quit riding your break pedal with your foot, constantly.
No man, Im all gas no brake lol. Its just a bad socket.
@@bigwolfe87 I'm glad some people still know how to drive
The aftermarket sockets from those parts stored are junk.
Get an oem one.
Switch to LEDs?
With sylvania zevo red led
Wear latex gloves when replacing the bulbs, oils in the hands lead to premature failure.
that only applies to high wattage halogen and HID bulbs the oil transfer from the skin doesnt effect this type of bulb as these smaller bulbs are argon gas and not as hot
And never touch the bulb, grease and oils from sweat is like frying the bulb
YOU are 100 percent right, I was in a hurry and knew I was swapping to LED (they just hadnt arrived yet)
Change the socket then change to LEDS
Put those stupid LED's in it... traffic driving causes a high amperage draw and over heating... you're constantly on the brakes. LED's DO NOT draw as much current.
heavy traffic Orlando man... hate it. But Yes kicking over to LEDs is the move right?
No matter what this cannot be permanently fixed because if it’s continued to be driven in heavy traffic with the brake light for extended periods of time the same thing will happen to a new socket it will get burnt from the heat
There is no permanent everlasting Repair for this problem
You are right, I need to move out of Orlando and this crap traffic. LOL that will fix everything actually.
Idk bro. Maybe because it's a Dodge of the new age? My Chevy truck is 29 yrs old and it doesn't look like that at all.
your are sopose to use bulb sauce...lol it stops the melting
Try using some bulb Grease.
I usually do man, but was in a hurry and already swapped with LED.