@ThomasJay723 Yes, sir. Air rifles in .510 really deserves more attention than given (and PA should update laws to include big bore airguns for deer). I did a test at 100 yds with hollow point slugs and saw some serious expansion.
@@raysbudgetslowmo I use 550 grain on fish tanks , watermelons , pumpkins. .510 is the caliber I love to film with . Just ordered some 388 grain too. #6 shotshell fits in the .510 too. But I agree with the deer’s for sure
The purpose why airgunner's are lubing projectile's come in the from of consistency between shots in FPS and Extreme Spread, which matters down range. It helps keep the barrel cleaner, and more consistent. Simply roll the lead around in a container with a thin film of silicone oil on it before loading. Almost all airgun competitors lube before shooting. Sometimes you just have to spit on it.
Interesting. I did know the H&N slugs are pre lubed, though what I could find said it was excess lube from maching that gets left on. It doesn't seem to negatively impact performance. I don't really have much experience with small bore air gun slugs in general though. Only my BT 65 in .177 needs them. My .17 and .22 maurader work great with really cheap pellets. And my .25 gauntlet is a little too expensive to consider switching to slugs when I'm in an area that allows me to use 22lr freely for a similar price per shot. Although that might just be me getting jealous at those guys with the M3 builds slapping 100+ fpe slug guns that destroy what I'm capable of with a 22lr and they make it look so easy too
I do plan on doing further testing in the future. There are many, many different lubes out there with some cold weather testing being carnuba red and homemade lithi bee. The lube I used is comparable to Old NRA 50/50 using paraffin wax as the carrier. Works decent with blackpowder but very little information in the airgun world.
You could also try Century Solutions BP- 2000 powder, dry lubricant, trigger tuner and bore treatment. From personal knowledge, it will drop pounds off of a AR trigger pull weight. And makes Bores slick as snot! Reminds me of graphite powder. The way it was explained to me. Is if graphite powder Particles were the size of a basketball?BP 2000 Would be the size of a golf ball?
Hmm reading into that a little bit it mentions smooth-kote so you might be on to something there. May or maybe not a per round basis but coating the bore could prove interesting results. Combined with a smooth-kote patch and a graphite projectile could potentially really reduce bore friction
Makes sense. The lube is coating barrel as it moves outward. Thus slowing slug. Kmom77 has the idea. Coat inside barrel & slugs. This should equal out friction. Results could be interesting
Even if your tethered to the tank the air pressure is dropping consistently and I would have fired 3 more unlubed after the lubed rounds to check my velocity again for confirmation. That gun uses mad crazy air so even connected to a tank like say a 6.8 ltr the tank pressure will have dropped considerably I would imagine. Either way this is a very cool test. I have often wondered myself if there would be a difference in speed. I tried this with Slick 50 back in the day on a 30-06 and there was indeed a difference in speed with that lube. It shot almost 200 FPS faster than without the lube so the Teflon did make a difference but never tried it with an airgun. I'm not taking a chance damaging seals/O-rings with that lube. I have always been told to only use silicone with airguns so I am not putting Slick 50 lube in a 2K+ airgun. Teflon may be ok if you can isolate it to the barrel only though. Thank you.
The hammer does use a TON of air. Off of the 500cc bottle, I've found you get 2 shots equal with the third being slow. First shot @4,500psi, second @3.6k psi, and the third @2.9k psi. This is a 6.8L 4,500psi tank, though I rarely fill above 4,200psi. It just takes way too long to make up the last couple hundred pounds when I want to start shooting. I believe the loss in speed is simply that the air doesn't get hot enough or create enough pressure to fully burn up the lube im using. And instead the lube is only adding to the bore contact creating more friction than what it is capable of reducing. I can do a future retest or make a shot count string with the same slug weight to find exactly how many shots per tank fill. I'm about 99% certain it's over 10, probably closer to 14, with a full bottle. It's nice enough today I'll try to do that now.
You should always wash pellets or slugs and Dawn and then dry them with a hair dryer and then just do a light spray on the slugs or pellets roll them in a cotton rag to make sure all the excess is off and you're ready
I have read about doing this on an old GTA post in my early airguning years, and many did agree with the practice. Though they were looking at .22 and .177 cal. I used a black powder 50/50 lube on these .51 slugs. It's certainly not the best choice in hindsight, considering BP operates at 15 to 30k psi while I'm limited to only 3k. Airgun specific lube would probably have helped. Although I did not see a loss in accuracy, just a POI change and a gummy barrel from all the unburned lube. Though cleaning was much faster with zero lead flakes in the rifling.
This lube is roughly a 50/50 mix of paraffin wax and left over grease from cooking. Somewhat akin to traditional muzzleloader/black powder lube. Real air rifle or pellet lube might prove different but I don't have any lying around. Glad you enjoyed
Ive tried spraying with silicone the barrel on a small pcp in .22 and actually increased the speed for the first 3-4 shots. Havent test the speed of lubed slugs, but i lube mine sometimes when i want accuracy, and it slightly tightens the groups on 100y, 5 shot grouping with my .30 cal but haven't checked the speed.
I'll have to make a note of that and try it out sometime. I don't run slugs in my .22 but I do have a .177 slug gun. Any specific silicone spray like P.B, super tech, WD?
@@raysbudgetslowmo just regular silicone spray from the grocery shop last few were called stac plastic silicone spray in Europe are 5 bucks but I have and balistol silicone both are the same wd40 is bad for the rubber dealings need to be pure silicone.
I did just order a sizing so I can powder coat them. What kind of powder coat are you using by chance? I've read/watched a little into the process, and powder selection and application vary. I'll try to test with as many applicable variables for you as possible.
I use Eastwood ford blue and squirrel grey, I would check out Elvis ammo on here, he has a ton of vids on powder coating cast boolits, though ther are ton of vids from other guys he goes way deep
Ok. I watch a little bit of him and Fortune cookie in my spare time when I feel getting expermental. The only powder I have on hand right now HF white and black. I've been able to get white to coat nicely, around 2 thou on a single coat. but black has always needed multiple passes the achieve the same thickness
Try some teflonspray
I will have to give that an attempt. I've tried silicone before the no real avail, but I have never even thought of using teflon. Thanks.
Sintered titanium nanoparticles soaked in teflon.
We go hard with the .510 also 🔥 I just subscribed . Glad I found a big bore channel
@ThomasJay723 Yes, sir. Air rifles in .510 really deserves more attention than given (and PA should update laws to include big bore airguns for deer). I did a test at 100 yds with hollow point slugs and saw some serious expansion.
ruclips.net/video/kGYYVgrDNAs/видео.htmlsi=plcHZ4Lk-EoaAote
@@raysbudgetslowmo im in Pennsylvania I agree
@@raysbudgetslowmo I use 550 grain on fish tanks , watermelons , pumpkins. .510 is the caliber I love to film with . Just ordered some 388 grain too. #6 shotshell fits in the .510 too. But I agree with the deer’s for sure
The purpose why airgunner's are lubing projectile's come in the from of consistency between shots in FPS and Extreme Spread, which matters down range. It helps keep the barrel cleaner, and more consistent. Simply roll the lead around in a container with a thin film of silicone oil on it before loading. Almost all airgun competitors lube before shooting. Sometimes you just have to spit on it.
Interesting. I did know the H&N slugs are pre lubed, though what I could find said it was excess lube from maching that gets left on. It doesn't seem to negatively impact performance. I don't really have much experience with small bore air gun slugs in general though. Only my BT 65 in .177 needs them. My .17 and .22 maurader work great with really cheap pellets. And my .25 gauntlet is a little too expensive to consider switching to slugs when I'm in an area that allows me to use 22lr freely for a similar price per shot. Although that might just be me getting jealous at those guys with the M3 builds slapping 100+ fpe slug guns that destroy what I'm capable of with a 22lr and they make it look so easy too
Thanks for sharing. Lee Alox comes to mind...
I would like to see same test. When it's warm out, say 70°. My guess is cold weather affecting the lube.
I do plan on doing further testing in the future. There are many, many different lubes out there with some cold weather testing being carnuba red and homemade lithi bee. The lube I used is comparable to Old NRA 50/50 using paraffin wax as the carrier. Works decent with blackpowder but very little information in the airgun world.
You could also try Century Solutions BP- 2000 powder, dry lubricant, trigger tuner and bore treatment. From personal knowledge, it will drop pounds off of a AR trigger pull weight. And makes Bores slick as snot! Reminds me of graphite powder. The way it was explained to me. Is if graphite powder Particles were the size of a basketball?BP 2000 Would be the size of a golf ball?
Hmm reading into that a little bit it mentions smooth-kote so you might be on to something there. May or maybe not a per round basis but coating the bore could prove interesting results. Combined with a smooth-kote patch and a graphite projectile could potentially really reduce bore friction
Makes sense. The lube is coating barrel as it moves outward. Thus slowing slug. Kmom77 has the idea. Coat inside barrel & slugs. This should equal out friction. Results could be interesting
This increases velocity in piston driven guns/rifles not PCP!
Barrel polishing is still the best way to gain accuracy, lubing also helps
Even if your tethered to the tank the air pressure is dropping consistently and I would have fired 3 more unlubed after the lubed rounds to check my velocity again for confirmation. That gun uses mad crazy air so even connected to a tank like say a 6.8 ltr the tank pressure will have dropped considerably I would imagine. Either way this is a very cool test. I have often wondered myself if there would be a difference in speed. I tried this with Slick 50 back in the day on a 30-06 and there was indeed a difference in speed with that lube. It shot almost 200 FPS faster than without the lube so the Teflon did make a difference but never tried it with an airgun. I'm not taking a chance damaging seals/O-rings with that lube. I have always been told to only use silicone with airguns so I am not putting Slick 50 lube in a 2K+ airgun. Teflon may be ok if you can isolate it to the barrel only though. Thank you.
The hammer does use a TON of air. Off of the 500cc bottle, I've found you get 2 shots equal with the third being slow. First shot @4,500psi, second @3.6k psi, and the third @2.9k psi. This is a 6.8L 4,500psi tank, though I rarely fill above 4,200psi. It just takes way too long to make up the last couple hundred pounds when I want to start shooting. I believe the loss in speed is simply that the air doesn't get hot enough or create enough pressure to fully burn up the lube im using. And instead the lube is only adding to the bore contact creating more friction than what it is capable of reducing. I can do a future retest or make a shot count string with the same slug weight to find exactly how many shots per tank fill. I'm about 99% certain it's over 10, probably closer to 14, with a full bottle. It's nice enough today I'll try to do that now.
Lead is in itself a lube and does not need any adition.
You should always wash pellets or slugs and Dawn and then dry them with a hair dryer and then just do a light spray on the slugs or pellets roll them in a cotton rag to make sure all the excess is off and you're ready
I have read about doing this on an old GTA post in my early airguning years, and many did agree with the practice. Though they were looking at .22 and .177 cal. I used a black powder 50/50 lube on these .51 slugs. It's certainly not the best choice in hindsight, considering BP operates at 15 to 30k psi while I'm limited to only 3k. Airgun specific lube would probably have helped. Although I did not see a loss in accuracy, just a POI change and a gummy barrel from all the unburned lube. Though cleaning was much faster with zero lead flakes in the rifling.
We use silicone spray to lube power stretcher poles in flooring. You could try spraying that in the barrel and on the slugs. It lasts awhile too
Fuck y
Yeah ill prefer non lube as well it'll be a waste of time great video 🎯🎯🎯🎯🎯 you have a new subscriber 👍
This lube is roughly a 50/50 mix of paraffin wax and left over grease from cooking. Somewhat akin to traditional muzzleloader/black powder lube. Real air rifle or pellet lube might prove different but I don't have any lying around. Glad you enjoyed
Ive tried spraying with silicone the barrel on a small pcp in .22 and actually increased the speed for the first 3-4 shots. Havent test the speed of lubed slugs, but i lube mine sometimes when i want accuracy, and it slightly tightens the groups on 100y, 5 shot grouping with my .30 cal but haven't checked the speed.
I'll have to make a note of that and try it out sometime. I don't run slugs in my .22 but I do have a .177 slug gun. Any specific silicone spray like P.B, super tech, WD?
@@raysbudgetslowmo just regular silicone spray from the grocery shop last few were called stac plastic silicone spray in Europe are 5 bucks but I have and balistol silicone both are the same wd40 is bad for the rubber dealings need to be pure silicone.
Thanks. Next time I'm out and about in hardware, I'll try to pick out some different ones than what I have on hand
If you didn't refill to the same starting pressure for the lubed slugs as what you started with for the unlubed slugs then this video is pointless.
It's regulated at 3k psi, the bottle remained above 3k for the entire testing with the tethered connection to to the tank
Try powder coating them , works great with cast boolits
I did just order a sizing so I can powder coat them. What kind of powder coat are you using by chance? I've read/watched a little into the process, and powder selection and application vary. I'll try to test with as many applicable variables for you as possible.
I use Eastwood ford blue and squirrel grey, I would check out Elvis ammo on here, he has a ton of vids on powder coating cast boolits, though ther are ton of vids from other guys he goes way deep
Ok. I watch a little bit of him and Fortune cookie in my spare time when I feel getting expermental. The only powder I have on hand right now HF white and black. I've been able to get white to coat nicely, around 2 thou on a single coat. but black has always needed multiple passes the achieve the same thickness