Bass management in home theater environment was the most excruciating thing ever in my ht journey. I've started way back in the 90s where everything was manual. No measurements and calibration tools whatsoever. To integrate mains with subwoofer was heck of a long learning curve. Then when I progressed to add multiple subwoofer I've to go back to zero again and learn something new again. But all the pain and sweat of the past really paid off now. I'm satisfied with my ht bass performance.
I have two sealed subs one is an SVS SB-3000 and one SVS NSD-12 after watching this video I'm gonna use REW to get maximum bass output. Thanks for the video Gene. 🤟🏻
With careful input of the true data on the subs and your room you can use the REW simulator to experiment with gain, placement etc. Really useful and almost eerily accurate when compared to the measurements I made afterwards.
I built a full Marty ported box for a Stereo Integrity ht-18. I then bought the same sub in a sealed box on craigslist.. I was getting cancelation in the low bass region in an unfinished basement, so I flipped the speaker wire on the ported sub. Once my basement was finished, I then had to switch back the wire on the pouted sub in order to align the subs.
I use 2 RSL Speedwoofer 10s in opposing corners of my room, just 2 channel setup, no measuring capabilities just a lot of self tweaking to each. Phase is @ 0, on both, x-over @ 60 hZ & the gain are each set about half on the dial, sounds really good.
@5:15 it is my understanding that the mutual coupling (+6dB theoretical) occurs at all frequencies the subs reproduce as it's a matter of 1/4 wave length and the distance between the sound sources... the extra boost that occurs only at low frequencies (the room gain +6db theoretical) is a matter of 1/2 wave length and the listening room size.
I run a ported Klipsch 12" 300w sub, and an SVS SB-2000 12" 550w sub in my system. Audissey set my volumes to about 74db each. Then I used the SVS app on my phone to tailor the sealed box. Fun fact: To get the same volume out of each sub, the sealed sub moves twice as much as the ported does to get the same SPL. Meaning, when the concrete of my basement moves, it's most likely my sealed sub doing it.
Integrating your subs with your mains isn't always a cakewalk either. Yesterday I finished integrating a third SVS PB-3000 into my system to improve seat to seat consistency. After the subs were all aligned and working well together, I took a stab at improving the integration with my front and left mains. REW measurements indicated that I had a couple significant bass robbing cancellations occurring below the 80Hz crossover. I tried everything from using different crossover frequencies, adjusting the phase of the subs, tweaking the timing of the mains and adjusting their positions, all to no avail. The only thing that ultimately solved the problem was adding a much steeper roll-off to the mains below the crossover frequency using Audyssey's MultEQ editor app. I must have taken dozens of measurements trying to slay that bass demon.
Hey Gene, I'm glad to hear you're feeling better and you're over the virus. I do have a Paradigm Servo-15 (sealed) and a Monitor Audio ASW 210 (Dual 10'' ported). I bought the monitor audio sub first to try to match my infinity speakers in my first home theater setup. Then we finished the basement with a room for a entertainment/home theater. I went with Paradigm Studio speakers for the new room. I wanted a servo sealed sub for two reasons; accuracy and I was placing it under the steps, we had the drywall cutout so the sub is flush with the wall and I did not want base to travel back through the steps. And since I had the monitor sub I figured I would integrated it with the Paradigm speakers and sub, Never thinking it could be an issue. I did realize adjusting the phase 180 deg on the monitor sub boosted the total base output by 6db in my setting position.
Finally an expert saying something logic. When you check forums, it's like a fact that you can't mix ported and sealed, and there are so many things involved. People say that is becouse lower than the poet tune of the ported sub, seal and ported won't be aligned. Well, with that logic, two different subwoofers (even if they are the same brand) they'll have a different port tune, and they'll have the same problem. Bass is room related, and even having 2 same models of subs, you get a lot of waves cancelation. I have 2 HUM 15' sealed subwoofers, and I always felt a lack of something, after using Rew I saw I had a huge dip between 60 and 80 hz, just where the chest slam Is felt. I need to add a subwoofer to fix it, and I don't have space for a port subwoofer, so I'll need to use a Mini Dsp and Rew to fix that Dip.
Started with 2 Klipsch subs (SPL-120) against most peoples recommendation and then after a few months i wanted more and added 2 HSU Research subs. Now running all 4 but they do sounds different in tone and output. Integrating them has been tricky, but with the addition of the miniDSP I recently made good progress. But i do think theres still room for improvement.
I use a ported 12" and a sealed 12" subs in my room and they work very well after alot of time setting it up and measuring. I cannot even count how many times i've been told it does not work on audioholics comment section and reddit hometheater section, because of wave cancellation, and this and that while they have no idea what was done in order to match them FOR MY ROOM. And when you start explaining, they just go: "it doesn't work, because ... i say so".
Well, I have the same feeling. I have to DIY sealed 15". And I have wave cancelation, getting a huge dio between 60Hz and 80Hz. Low Hz is room dependant, so no matter if you mix 2 ported, 2 sealed or if you mix them, you always need to measure everything trying to fix thing. 😊
I run a mix of ported and sealed. Ported : Klipsch sw-350 350W Sealed : Dali Doncept sub 160W Shakes room and home, ported is out of phase and it fills the room well. Ported is a deeper bass even being an 8 inch compared to 10 inch.
Gene if possible u can try Servo Subs sealed Vs sealed subs how is the performance and is there a big difference. Rythmik audio sells the servo subs and servo amps so does GR research try to evaluate in 10-12” driver limit since that’s the most common 15” I feel should be slower than 10-12”. Also Rhythmic offer Hypex based servo subs instead of Class AB I am sure Hypex will blow away a class ab in bass
My speakers go down to the mid 30hZ range and they are ported. I've been pondering getting a sub and I'm leaning towards a sealed sub for speed because music is my #1 priority. Now your video blew up my plan. Maybe I'll just stay with no subwoofer because mid 30 hZ is not too shabby.
hi Gene. Love all your videos and hope you’re recovering well from the ‘Rona. The timing of this video was perfect. I just received an SVS SB16 to go along w/ my Hsu VTF 15H that I’ve had for years. I was hesitant to get a sealed sub but thought I’d take a chance and try and make it work in my 16x14x8, unenclosed Den/Media room. I just pick up a Umik-1 and have REW on laptop ready to go. Never done true measurements before, other than running Audyssey (XT32), w/ pretty good results. I look forward to attempting to reach full potential of my subs and speakers (7.2.4), with accurate measurements and putting your theory to the test of mix matched subs. Wish me luck :)
Good video; two JL Audio F113 upfront and one F212 on the back wall, all sealed. I’ve never measured my room, but the UMIK-1 is on the way for the virgin measurement.
It’s definitely tricky, but it can be done. I “measured” with my ears. I had to turn up the gain on my PB-4000 and EQ the very low frequencies up a bit. Then I had to turn down the volume of my SB-2000 and change the phase and crossover. The 4000 is in the front of the room and the 2000 is right next to my seat. It really rocks your body with low end bass! I’d rather all sealed though.
Been wanting to add a pair of SVS PB16 Ultras to help my pair of SVS SB16 Ultras fill out the bottom end of a large listening space. You just convinced me that is probably not going to work. Thanks for saving me five grand Gene! Instead, I’ll continue to test the placement of my existing subs. It’s been a very fun but extremely frustrating ride. Wish I knew what the heck I was doing and this helps! 😂🤣😀
I dont have any measurement tools I have sealed sub Then bought ported sub Didnt know about the difference in subs at the time .Just using sound level meter to match the same level as the rest of the speakers So far sounds pretty good I have a Blue Man Group DVD AUDIO disc which is good for listening in the real world how your subs are set up I feel each sub with my hands on top and adjust it so both are feeling the same and the results in my room sound room shaking ...which as you know sounds good to me Both subs are 12 inch and are similar in power Just glad i have the spl meter Anything else you might suggest It seem to work for me But since i dont have the measurement tools or the fancy settings on my subs This is all i can do and i guess i will never know how good they could sound with proper measurements Also I set the subs distance 4 feet further than the fronts in the set up menu Just experimenting with this and still sounds good. Thanks Jim
I'm about to receive two SB-3000 to completly replace a small polk sub. I am looking to experiment Audyssey's dual sub calibration feature Sub EQ HT to give it a try before considering equiping myself with the miniDsp, umik-1 and REW (I'm just not there yet, but I have my eyes on it). There was one thing I noticed in your graphs is that you do not attempt to achieve a house curve (slightly going down as freq go up) when you are not at reference level, as per the fact that how humans perceive ("appreciate") bass. In other words, the lower frequencies have a slightly higher output than the higher ones in the subwoofer freq range. I was comparing info in this channel to the ones I got from The Home Theater Gurus channel. What's your opinion on this house curve? Perhaps a video about this for the ones using REW. Thanks for your great content!
I do use mix sub, ported klipsh 12'' 300w and a SVS sealed 500w. I'm also using a dayton dsp to realign everything and i can say it is not an easy thing to do. I must say i cannot play much around with the placement of the subs as my room is 11x22' and there is no other place to put them. What i can do is to switch position, but i never tryed it. I do you mix sub to have the best of both world. I like music AND movies. So i use more the ported one for movies and sealed for music, but there is situation where i can use both. I also use a bass shaker in my couch. This one is the game changer, i do help my system sound like i have a 4k subwoofer. I use a 40$ bass shakers from part express. This was also hard to integrate as it do make the couch shake even to 100hz and more and it doesn't feel natural. So i lowered the low pass filter to 60hz and boosted the 20-30hz. I'm happy but there is still lot of adjustment to make.
I use 1 ported and 1 sealed because that's all I have and can get for a while. Can I help solve the issues you talk about with the phase knob on one of the subs?
I need your advice, 2 months ago I purchased 2 SVS 12" PB 1000 Pro Subwoofers, They sound good but it's stil something missing, I was thinking of getting a 3rd PB 1000 Pro or would you sell and get 2 SVS 12" PB 2000 Pros?
in car audio, what if i use 2 of the same subwoofer (different boxes) but both connected to a dsp to match the roll off. I was just curious to the sound quality and the bass output. i was thinking port to punch and sealed for quality
Hi Gene, how would you look at this topic with all the new tech around? Thinking about if its easier these days with software like Dirac Bass control software?
I have 3 SVS pb2000 pro, two front as a rear, time aligned and blended through my miniDSP. My back sub doesn’t fit the space well and want to switch it to the sb2000 for smaller cabinet size. I’m nervous it won’t blend as well. I need some reassurance :) I’m good at rew and mini dsp, just don’t want it to sound bad
Great video Gene would love to know if we should be using dB meters when setting up EQ or Audyssey and is Audyssey just working out distance, crossover and levels or does it do other things in the background - thanks Mark and I so glad your better
I use to run 4 sealed 10s and a 12 in a large ported enclosure. Ran off a Phoenix Gold 1200 rms amp. That was back when 1200 rms cost $1500... It sounded f-ing amazing. Super clean and loud . If I unhooked the 12 it was still clean and loud just didn't have the crazy low hit . Everyone was shocked by the output and SQ.
Currently putting together a 4 ten inch subwoofer box with 2 sealed and 2 ported. On a 1200 rms amp. They are Kenwood excelon subwoofers and a powerbass 1205d amp. Crazy how much the cost of good power amps have come down . The same quality 4 subs and amp back in 04 cost me $2700. The new system cost $1000 with the kenwood excelon dpx793bh head unit included lol 😄
Glad your back with the family Gene. Using 2 pb1000 and also definitive technology bp 9060. Love the setup and now finishing the basement. Cant wait to set this system up the right way with some tuning. Keep the vids coming. Curious on your thoughts integration of stand alone subs and built in such as my setup.
Thank you Gene. Ive been asking/reading about this for a few months prior to upgrading to Dual Subs. I had a sealed Monitor Audio RSW-12 and thought of adding to it but in the end I went for Dual SVS PB2000's. Great Advice and confirms all Ive been reading. Does anyone know if I use Central wall placement Front - Rear, Do they have to line up exactly and does it matter if the line of sight between the Subs is broken i.e Sofa/Coffee table ? Thanks
Good info Gene! I have a SVS PB16 Ultra, I have REW and the microphone but I am a newbie to using REW but my preliminary tests look pretty good to my eyes. I also have Polk Audio LSi15's - 4 of them for my front and rear surrounds.
I used to run 2x 12inch sealed subs Dali e12f, they went down to 28hz on the spec sheet, I had them down to 24hz in my room, I changed them out for 2x 12inch ported, svs pb2000, reason was to get a deeper base response, I do get that but placement is limited and I don't think I'm getting the best out of them, I have however just purchased the microphone to work with REW based on your subwoofer measurement video, it's in the post so when it arrives I can have a play to hopefully get them right.
I'm using just one sub (Dali E12f) and it seems quite ok, not sure I would get good value per space&buck if get another sub. I feel the base is quite powerful as is, just did a subcrawl to assure it is in the right spot. Maybe if I would have guests more often that would be a reason to get another sub, but with 1-2 people near the sweet spot I don't think that is money well spend.
Awesome video. I am using definitive technology super cubes. I love the bass radiators in there designs I find the bass is deep and tight. Everyone's ears crave a different type of bass. In my vehicle I have a 2,000 watt in a 1 ohm load in a sealed box and it punches hard. I am a fan of tight punchy bass.
Vinny, what sub are you using in your car, and would you consider it a SQ woofer? I'm running a 2ohm load right now as to not damage my 1200 watt sub, but I'd like to find its replacement closer to 2k.
I have two front towers that have two 10" infinity kappa perfect sealed subs ine each tower. And a 18" dayton ultimax in a ported mini marty. I have that because i was building the front towers and found the 18" sub with the box for 200$ and i coudnt let it pass by. Sound pretty damn good. Im thinking of replacing two of the front tower subs for a 10" midvass. To put those 10" subs in sealed boxes in the back of the room.
I have 2-12 pioneer in sealed 1.5 box side each at 200 watts then I I have 1 sundown audio x15 d2 v3 in a 5.5 cubic feet box that’s 1.5 inches thick all the way around with the slot of it is thick with a flare at the front it’s running off a 2100 watt synergy audio ! These are in a Toyota 4-runner . I have the hard hitting bass and I have the low like warp wind movement . I have a low pass filter to we’re 20hz and higher play but it doesn’t let any thing lower play into my subwoofers! The reason for it for me is to get the fullest sound from my lows . But I’ve got hertz audio 8” woofers in the doors rear and 8” ds audio in from door alpine head unit that I can adjust the timing and it has eq in it also I can download from alpine a cd to put in it with custom adjustments . I also have alpine silk dome tweeters at the tops of my apillers and in the rear window control area of the side area of the door . Along with metal horn tweeters in the tops of the front door by ds audio they match the 8” woofers as a component set with Sony crossover to split my sounds and the head unit has its own subwoofer out put running into audio controls epicenter for the bas control . I also has the newest version of the epicenter I’m thinking of combining them both in there this way I can have one on my 12’s and 1 on my 15 . I can understand what your saying about the tuning of this set up it took some time working with some one just ridding around playing different music and tuning my amps to get the max out of each set up at the same volume level. Well I do have 2 American bass x max monsters and a 8000 watt amp with two full sheets of 3/4 oak veneer 13 layer ply wood so I’m thinking about ditching my current set up for this new one along with the new epicenter micro that has way more adjustments on it . I found a long time ago the better equipment that you have the better the sound you get and the less complications you have tuning it ! The one thing that’s the most important I’d say is your THD number of your out put into the amp and the same with the amp . Seems the lower that number the loader and cleaner the sound you get. The next thing that’s real big is sound deadening holding the sound in and not to have anything rattling makes the sound so much better . Playing out of a vehicle Is like playing out of a big tin can so I’ve stiffened everything up then have 3-4 different types and layers of sound deadening in the top all 5 doors and the rear quarters and the bottom floor is really dead ended with 30% more plush carpet from the stock carpet ! An no I haven’t been to any competitions they say they can hear me from around 2 miles away so I don’t know how loud I am in db’s I say pretty high but idk I know it sounds good no matter what I play it’s clear and full ranged sharpest of high and ground pounding bass ! If I’m not playing it with the windows up we’ve whispered to each other and can hear so easy what’s being said it’s really super quit barley can tell there’s almost no outside noise at all ! It’s unreal what sound deadening will do. I think it’s way over looked and over doing it I think that helps even more . Like the rear plate or tag I got the washers with rubber on them . Face the steel against the steel so 2 washers for each of the 4 holes rubber against the plate and against the vehicle body . They were the ones you use on tin roofs but they keep that vibrating noise I can’t stand from my tag being made ! Kiss had a song called loud I wanna hear it loud right between the eyes . I like that only if it’s clean I’m almost 50 when I was 6 years old my dad gave me a play building and about 20 different speakers and 1 12volt battery with 3 car head units from stock to kraco and realistic brands of course I hooked up everything from all the combos that’s what got me looking at the numbers and more interested in audio . I like the theater also I have a part set up but not all together with a Rockville RPA16 10,000 watt concert amp to start it with and a behringer 750 watt also I haven’t gotten to how manny and what kind of speakers to run just yet but I should have plenty power ! Great video I liked and subscribed ! Audio if no one can talk over it, you can fell it, you can almost touch it, and it’s coming through loud & clear! Then there’s nothing any better ! Especially when it’s something you like listing to !
Question . I have a yamaha rx-a 1080 av receiver . I am running bic acousteck pl series speakers. I have 4 pl980 towers , pl 28 center ,2 pl 89 towers ,2 pl-66 book shelf , 4 pl200 long throw subs . I wanted to know if my speakers are quality speakers and what kind of av receiver I would get the best profofmance with. To me it still seems under powered for the money I have invested in everything I really want a good sounding system all around at levels of volume. Help would be much appreciated.Also I bought a crown 2502 and it did not seem to sound clear and clips fairly easy pushing 2 of the bic acousteck pl 980 speakers . The crown 2502 amplifier also has a constant hiss at low volumes and i even bought a power conditioner. Thanks in advance.
I have a SVS SB-1000 Pro in our open concept 5.1 system, Denon AVR-X4500H. I would like to add one more SVS Sub, I like to increase the effect for movies. I don't mind getting a miniDSP and
If you mix subs like this, the placement is key. I had a single ported and single sealed sub in different corners of the room and it was very annoying. If there was an explosion in a movie, the 30Hz and above would come from one area of the room and the lower frequencies at the end of the explosion would come from the opposite corner of the room.
Having two identical subs can be annoying if you don't place them right i had one up front one in back ,kept trying too blend both together back sub was too bassy after I kept turning it down extra dbs so I moved both up front perfect at same settings
What is the best unit to purchase in order to calibrate all the subwoofers? Also, if I purchase svf subwoofers that have the software built into them, do I need to purchase some type of unit to calibrate the subwoofers to work together or is that not needed then?
I have the ultra towers and ultra center with two SVS satellites for surrounds, and I’m trying to figure out whether or not I should go with two sealed SVS subs or two ported. Not sure what would go best with this combo of speakers? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
i have a mix. It's not that complicated. Sealed one is an 8 inch 180watt rms woofer. The range is between 30 and 300hz. The ported one has a 10" 125 watts rms woofer, and a range from 20hz to 150hz or so. Basically i use the ported sub for the low frequencies (i set it on 50hz) and the sealed one for more musical bass (i set the sealed one to 250hz). They don't need to do exactly the same to sound good, think of it as a monitor speaker, one speaker is for low frequencies, one is for the higher pitched frequencies. Took me some hours to make it sound good (not high end but those subs aren't high end anyways) luckily i have a receiver with a measurement option, that helped me alot to find the best sound
One SVS PC-2000 paired with the 10 inch subs in my Def Tech BP-9060 towers using minidsp 2x4 HD. I was able to get decent measurements using REW and lots of tweaking. Probably not an ideal setup as the subs in the towers are less capable, but I am happy with it for now. I set all 3 subs to 50% volume and adjusted the gain on the minidsp to level match all 3 prior to doing EQ. I keep meaning to go back and tweak some more. I didn't play with changing the roll off slopes. Since the subs in the towers have passive radiators they are more similar to a ported sub or sealed sub?
Very informative video. I am using an REL 528 sealed subwoofer and had it in the same system with Kinergetics dual subwoofers with a seperate amplifier. Now I just have the REL and am considering adding a second subwoofer. Sounds like getting another sealed, similar subwoofer would be best. Any comments? The rest of the system is all Martine Logan ESL for front and ML boxed with AMT type tweeters making up an 11.1 system. Thanks.
I have 2x Klipsch R115sw and want to up grade I am looking at 2 x Svs pb 300s or 1 x 16 ultra, I was going with the Sealed 16 ultra but you video changed that, my room is 19 x 9 x 12 ft, would the pb 16 ultra be over kill with the klipsch, or maybe just sell the klipsch.
This question might be off topic, but I knew you would have a good answer. Regarding reference offset levels(denon), where do you set yours? -5, -10, -15, or off? Thank and keep up the great work!!!!
What about the reverse of your example. A bog sealed sub (dayton ultimax Um18-22) and a smaller ported sub (infinity Kappa perfect 12D Vq at mid Q insert). I have a dayton um18-22 in a sealed enclosure (24"x24"x24". And i have a kappa 12" that i am planning to build an enclosure in the next weeks.
My room is a open concept; great room, dining, kitchen, foyer. The great room is 2 storey tall and presents a great sense of tall spacious sound. The sectional couch is 9x13' so unfortunately there is a more dramatic sweet spot in the middle seats. Bass is output from mains pair of 12" JBL sealed, pair of ported 6.5" Mission, 10" ported powered sub tied into the mains for signal (RCA jacks broke), and a 15" velodyne servo sealed. I have the JBL high pass at 40hz, missions 60hz. for subs; 10" ported 100hz lowpass, and the 15" velodyne at 40hz lowpass. Individually findings on each speaker; missions - punchy bass in the 60hz area for music, they don't go deep at all, relatively narrow frequency range (total) JBL very flat curve, but not much punch and not that fast. Can play bass very low that you can feel. Nice quality sound with a huge wide frequency range. Very sweet sounding. 10" ported sub - punchy in the 60hz area and quick. Doesnt like to play too low hense why i have them set at 100hz crossover lowpass. They help the JBL in the higher bass area. The velodyne has a flat bass response curve and loves extending into the sub frequencies that you feel. I don't need more bass above 40hz so i have it crossed over around 45 lowpass because again it loves the deep end! Overall, it sounds great! Are there issues, absolutely but it would take A LOT of tuning to make it perfect, so im just happy the way it is. What i would change the most is even though i have bass management set to send bass to the mains as well as the subs (200hz lowpass), I find there is not much bass that is sent to the mains during processing. Seems to me like the marants wants the sub to do everything despite the settings (although i do have the bass management set to force the mains to put out bass too). Im sure i have some bass cancelation going on, but i don't think there would be a simple way of configuring via some kind of dsp box that you mentioned? I am slightly limited to placement of the subs, they are all along the front wall and unfortunately there is no wall directly behind the couch to bounce the bass off of. Question, how much would a dsp box help with bass phase cancelation? How much would the audessey mic help with that? Marantz AV7702 MKii McIntosh 100x6 amp ADA amp 75x12 oppo 105
Great video Gene, Hey I have a 10"100watt ported active sub and an 6" 100watt passive ported sub.(from an old HTB) Was thinking I could purchase a plate amp and turn the 6" to an active sub and try and do a dual sub setup. What are your thoughts on that kind of mix
Hi there, 18" sealed sub (diy from ultimax 18) because I prefer the characteristics that sealed concept provides over ported one (Gene desctibed them). I'm not that much into loudness and I guess my house limits it as I have big ground to ceiling windows that I don't want to break when it's not summer ;-). ... I probably have already broke one just with my main speakers ( something like avantgarde acoustics one)
Gene, I'm looking for a (cheap)calibration microphone, and I'm noticing, that the Dayton Audio UMM-6 and the miniDsp UMIK-1, go down only to 18-20Hz. How do you measure below those frequencies, when you calibrate?
Passive radiators never seem to get addressed. Would a subwoofer with a passive radiator be considered a third category or would it technically be consider sealed?
Hi. My family room has 3 walls (front, right, back), the 4th side (left) is open to the kitchen. I have 2 identical subwoofers. One subwoofer is located at the front right of the room. My family room is 17' wide x 15' deep x 9' ceiling. QUESTION: I have 2 locations that I can place the 2nd subwoofer. I read that option C is better but I would prefer option D below. Your thoughts? C) the rear left of the room (I read that this is the preferred but the subwoofer would be an eyesore) D) the rear right of the room (the subwoofer would be hidden.) Is it ok to place it here? Would it sound bad if both subwoofers are located at the front-right and rear-right of the room? Thanks.
Hey Gene I know I am a bit late posting this question, but I have just been doing some thinking about what I next want to buy, so their is no need for any rush, I am not even sure if you will see this comment since this video is at least 2 years old…. But so at the present time i have 2 pb-3000, but i just got a new receiver (Denon A1H) which as 4 subwoofer outputs, so I am just trying to figure out, if I add 2 more subwoofers what do I want to do… I could either save up for 2 bigger subs (2’pb-4000s, or 2 pb-16 ultras… to see what type of bass I like best… or I could just go with my current set up, and buy 2 more pb-3000….
I don’t have a sub yet and was debating weather to start with 2 speed subwoofers or 1 HSU VTF 15-MK2 or 1 HSU ULS 15. I figured in about a year I could add another subwoofer. I am worried that over the long run the 2 speedwoofer won’t be enough and that I should start with just 1 of the bigger subs for now. Any thoughts?
I have one SVS PB-2000 sub. I want to get one of the Monolith 10" subs to put into the setup. Hope they work well. Might be too much for such a small room, though. In fact, the 10" sub might work better in the room than the SVS 12". I'll find out, I guess.
Can you mix different ported subs together? I have an SVS PC12-NSD. They don't make it anymore so I am considering a PC-2000. Would that blend well with the PC 12 NSD?
Now I’m NOT subwoof expert and will never claim or pretend to be so But one thing I don’t understand about mixing ported & sealed is that wouldn’t mixing them help with the shortcomings of either or They both have pros and cons obviously due to design and what they can do I would think that by mixing a sealed & ported sub I would be able to get low deep end extension and then when the ported will roll of a cliff like they tend to do beyond their port tuning point then the sealed would carry the torch from there since they have more of a gradual roll off at the deep end Or am I not understanding something that someone can help better explain to me 🤷♂️
Hi sr. I hope you got a great Thanksgiving. Sorry for bother you, can I send you a file of my measurement using rew and umik 1? I don't know if the graphic is ok or I have to do more measurements
Hi Gene, I’ve been shopping for a subwoofer the last couple of months. I would love to hear your thoughts about REL subwoofers. They have a set up called REL 3D, where I am considering running two main subwoofers, a smaller center, and a rear subwoofer. The high level connectors make them very unique. Thanks
I have 1 12' derected sxd12 in a ported box with 3000 blau punkt d class amp in my car I've had the sub for bought 11 years and it's hitting Hader than when I got it
Greetings from Germany. I am a subscriber now and I have a question. I have a decent 5.1.2 speaker set up and the Yamaha rxv 683 avr. I want to upgrade and I wanna know if the Yamaha rxa 2080 is a good update in terms of overall performance. I saw the power specs and I am a little suspicious. My speakers are from a German company and cost a few thousand euros which is basically a few thousand dollars. Would appreciate if you can give me your advice💪
Use a 1.5x power calculation as a starting point. For example, 8" front firing ported sub ~100w + 12" down firing sealed sub ~150w. It is important that driver/ports DONT point straight at the two nearest walls. This is to reduce standing waves. Never put two subs in the corners of a room. Also it is important In over 90% of cases I've seen customers purchasing overpowered subs. This is absolutely un-necessary. Two smaller underpowered sub(s) can be placed closer to a corner to get some room-gain. But you cant do much with a single large, heavy, overpowering sub.
So here is a question. 1st ported and sealed, personaly i perfer ported. Sealed isn’t bad by any means depending on the type of subwoofer used and build quality of the cabinet, but has anyone ever thought of possibly a 4th order bandpass style box? I have one made for a 10in subwoofer at 300 watts rms, And man does it shake! But anyone else try this and also had good results?
I'll be putting a bandpass in the attic, external port going into the ceiling via a 6.5" in ceiling speaker that I gutted. Doesn't work for everyone. The 12" sub should hit 20hz at 105db with 200w and be invisible; rolloff starts at 60hz.
Michael Carper that’s sounds like a really good idea! I sure hope that really works out! 👍🏼. I eneded up using a kicker 10 inch. But i was thinking of getting rid of that and using a kicker 12 solobaric with 300 watts. But not sure would be louder and heavier for my space for sure.
You can, but to get them to integrate well you would want to run them through a DSP, such as a miniDSP 2x4, so that you can correctly time align them such that they work with each other rather than against each other. Plus the DSP will allow you to EQ them to smooth out the bumps.
Why don't we just put high pass filter on sealed sub at 50hz so it plays only above 50hz then put a low pass filter on them ported sub so it plays only content below 50hz down to infrasonic frequency. Anyone knows any videos that explains this?
I do this all the time. Match the slope of the subs at tuning of the ported and they blend properly It's much easier to stick with one bass alignment for all subs, however.
Thanks for the shout out Big Gene aka Don Corleone! 😉 - Filipino 🧨
Joe's the man he saves an hour
Bass management in home theater environment was the most excruciating thing ever in my ht journey. I've started way back in the 90s where everything was manual. No measurements and calibration tools whatsoever. To integrate mains with subwoofer was heck of a long learning curve. Then when I progressed to add multiple subwoofer I've to go back to zero again and learn something new again. But all the pain and sweat of the past really paid off now. I'm satisfied with my ht bass performance.
I have two sealed subs one is an SVS SB-3000 and one SVS NSD-12 after watching this video I'm gonna use REW to get maximum bass output. Thanks for the video Gene. 🤟🏻
With careful input of the true data on the subs and your room you can use the REW simulator to experiment with gain, placement etc. Really useful and almost eerily accurate when compared to the measurements I made afterwards.
I built a full Marty ported box for a Stereo Integrity ht-18. I then bought the same sub in a sealed box on craigslist.. I was getting cancelation in the low bass region in an unfinished basement, so I flipped the speaker wire on the ported sub. Once my basement was finished, I then had to switch back the wire on the pouted sub in order to align the subs.
Im using SVS SP-1000 AND PB-1000 and truly enjoying them together, thanks for sharing
I use 2 RSL Speedwoofer 10s in opposing corners of my room, just 2 channel setup, no measuring capabilities just a lot of self tweaking to each. Phase is @ 0, on both, x-over @ 60 hZ & the gain are each set about half on the dial, sounds really good.
@5:15 it is my understanding that the mutual coupling (+6dB theoretical) occurs at all frequencies the subs reproduce as it's a matter of 1/4 wave length and the distance between the sound sources...
the extra boost that occurs only at low frequencies (the room gain +6db theoretical) is a matter of 1/2 wave length and the listening room size.
I run a ported Klipsch 12" 300w sub, and an SVS SB-2000 12" 550w sub in my system. Audissey set my volumes to about 74db each. Then I used the SVS app on my phone to tailor the sealed box. Fun fact: To get the same volume out of each sub, the sealed sub moves twice as much as the ported does to get the same SPL. Meaning, when the concrete of my basement moves, it's most likely my sealed sub doing it.
Integrating your subs with your mains isn't always a cakewalk either. Yesterday I finished integrating a third SVS PB-3000 into my system to improve seat to seat consistency. After the subs were all aligned and working well together, I took a stab at improving the integration with my front and left mains. REW measurements indicated that I had a couple significant bass robbing cancellations occurring below the 80Hz crossover. I tried everything from using different crossover frequencies, adjusting the phase of the subs, tweaking the timing of the mains and adjusting their positions, all to no avail. The only thing that ultimately solved the problem was adding a much steeper roll-off to the mains below the crossover frequency using Audyssey's MultEQ editor app. I must have taken dozens of measurements trying to slay that bass demon.
Hey Gene, I'm glad to hear you're feeling better and you're over the virus. I do have a Paradigm Servo-15 (sealed) and a Monitor Audio ASW 210 (Dual 10'' ported). I bought the monitor audio sub first to try to match my infinity speakers in my first home theater setup. Then we finished the basement with a room for a entertainment/home theater. I went with Paradigm Studio speakers for the new room. I wanted a servo sealed sub for two reasons; accuracy and I was placing it under the steps, we had the drywall cutout so the sub is flush with the wall and I did not want base to travel back through the steps. And since I had the monitor sub I figured I would integrated it with the Paradigm speakers and sub, Never thinking it could be an issue. I did realize adjusting the phase 180 deg on the monitor sub boosted the total base output by 6db in my setting position.
Finally an expert saying something logic.
When you check forums, it's like a fact that you can't mix ported and sealed, and there are so many things involved.
People say that is becouse lower than the poet tune of the ported sub, seal and ported won't be aligned.
Well, with that logic, two different subwoofers (even if they are the same brand) they'll have a different port tune, and they'll have the same problem.
Bass is room related, and even having 2 same models of subs, you get a lot of waves cancelation.
I have 2 HUM 15' sealed subwoofers, and I always felt a lack of something, after using Rew I saw I had a huge dip between 60 and 80 hz, just where the chest slam Is felt.
I need to add a subwoofer to fix it, and I don't have space for a port subwoofer, so I'll need to use a Mini Dsp and Rew to fix that Dip.
Started with 2 Klipsch subs (SPL-120) against most peoples recommendation and then after a few months i wanted more and added 2 HSU Research subs. Now running all 4 but they do sounds different in tone and output. Integrating them has been tricky, but with the addition of the miniDSP I recently made good progress. But i do think theres still room for improvement.
I use a ported 12" and a sealed 12" subs in my room and they work very well after alot of time setting it up and measuring. I cannot even count how many times i've been told it does not work on audioholics comment section and reddit hometheater section, because of wave cancellation, and this and that while they have no idea what was done in order to match them FOR MY ROOM. And when you start explaining, they just go: "it doesn't work, because ... i say so".
I need your help. I have 1 sub sealed and another one vented.
Well, I have the same feeling.
I have to DIY sealed 15". And I have wave cancelation, getting a huge dio between 60Hz and 80Hz.
Low Hz is room dependant, so no matter if you mix 2 ported, 2 sealed or if you mix them, you always need to measure everything trying to fix thing. 😊
I run a mix of ported and sealed.
Ported : Klipsch sw-350 350W
Sealed : Dali Doncept sub 160W
Shakes room and home, ported is out of phase and it fills the room well. Ported is a deeper bass even being an 8 inch compared to 10 inch.
Gene if possible u can try Servo Subs sealed Vs sealed subs how is the performance and is there a big difference. Rythmik audio sells the servo subs and servo amps so does GR research try to evaluate in 10-12” driver limit since that’s the most common
15” I feel should be slower than 10-12”. Also Rhythmic offer Hypex based servo subs instead of Class AB I am sure Hypex will blow away a class ab in bass
Looking into GR research servo subs. You gotta review them
My speakers go down to the mid 30hZ range and they are ported. I've been pondering getting a sub and I'm leaning towards a sealed sub for speed because music is my #1 priority. Now your video blew up my plan. Maybe I'll just stay with no subwoofer because mid 30 hZ is not too shabby.
hi Gene. Love all your videos and hope you’re recovering well from the ‘Rona. The timing of this video was perfect. I just received an SVS SB16 to go along w/ my Hsu VTF 15H that I’ve had for years. I was hesitant to get a sealed sub but thought I’d take a chance and try and make it work in my 16x14x8, unenclosed Den/Media room. I just pick up a Umik-1 and have REW on laptop ready to go. Never done true measurements before, other than running Audyssey (XT32), w/ pretty good results. I look forward to attempting to reach full potential of my subs and speakers (7.2.4), with accurate measurements and putting your theory to the test of mix matched subs. Wish me luck :)
How did it go?
Good video; two JL Audio F113 upfront and one F212 on the back wall, all sealed. I’ve never measured my room, but the UMIK-1 is on the way for the virgin measurement.
It’s definitely tricky, but it can be done. I “measured” with my ears. I had to turn up the gain on my PB-4000 and EQ the very low frequencies up a bit. Then I had to turn down the volume of my SB-2000 and change the phase and crossover. The 4000 is in the front of the room and the 2000 is right next to my seat. It really rocks your body with low end bass! I’d rather all sealed though.
What about using the tower speakers that has built in power subs, can you use the bass from those to blend in with your dual subs
I have a NHT b10d sub and added a SVS PC2000 I am happy with the sound... I am using a Yamaha 780 receiver .... am I missing something? thanks
Been wanting to add a pair of SVS PB16 Ultras to help my pair of SVS SB16 Ultras fill out the bottom end of a large listening space. You just convinced me that is probably not going to work. Thanks for saving me five grand Gene! Instead, I’ll continue to test the placement of my existing subs. It’s been a very fun but extremely frustrating ride. Wish I knew what the heck I was doing and this helps! 😂🤣😀
I dont have any measurement tools I have sealed sub Then bought ported sub Didnt know about the difference in subs at the time .Just using sound level meter to match the same level as the rest of the speakers So far sounds pretty good I have a Blue Man Group DVD AUDIO disc which is good for listening in the real world how your subs are set up I feel each sub with my hands on top and adjust it so both are feeling the same and the results in my room sound room shaking ...which as you know sounds good to me Both subs are 12 inch and are similar in power Just glad i have the spl meter Anything else you might suggest It seem to work for me But since i dont have the measurement tools or the fancy settings on my subs This is all i can do and i guess i will never know how good they could sound with proper measurements Also I set the subs distance 4 feet further than the fronts in the set up menu Just experimenting with this and still sounds good. Thanks Jim
I'm about to receive two SB-3000 to completly replace a small polk sub. I am looking to experiment Audyssey's dual sub calibration feature Sub EQ HT to give it a try before considering equiping myself with the miniDsp, umik-1 and REW (I'm just not there yet, but I have my eyes on it). There was one thing I noticed in your graphs is that you do not attempt to achieve a house curve (slightly going down as freq go up) when you are not at reference level, as per the fact that how humans perceive ("appreciate") bass. In other words, the lower frequencies have a slightly higher output than the higher ones in the subwoofer freq range. I was comparing info in this channel to the ones I got from The Home Theater Gurus channel. What's your opinion on this house curve? Perhaps a video about this for the ones using REW. Thanks for your great content!
I do use mix sub, ported klipsh 12'' 300w and a SVS sealed 500w. I'm also using a dayton dsp to realign everything and i can say it is not an easy thing to do. I must say i cannot play much around with the placement of the subs as my room is 11x22' and there is no other place to put them. What i can do is to switch position, but i never tryed it.
I do you mix sub to have the best of both world. I like music AND movies. So i use more the ported one for movies and sealed for music, but there is situation where i can use both. I also use a bass shaker in my couch. This one is the game changer, i do help my system sound like i have a 4k subwoofer. I use a 40$ bass shakers from part express. This was also hard to integrate as it do make the couch shake even to 100hz and more and it doesn't feel natural. So i lowered the low pass filter to 60hz and boosted the 20-30hz. I'm happy but there is still lot of adjustment to make.
I am going to be trying 2-15” x2 in H frame OB with a sealed 10” pair peerless XLS after lockdown
I use 1 ported and 1 sealed because that's all I have and can get for a while. Can I help solve the issues you talk about with the phase knob on one of the subs?
I need your advice, 2 months ago I purchased 2 SVS 12" PB 1000 Pro Subwoofers, They sound good but it's stil something missing, I was thinking of getting a 3rd PB 1000 Pro or would you sell and get 2 SVS 12" PB 2000 Pros?
in car audio, what if i use 2 of the same subwoofer (different boxes) but both connected to a dsp to match the roll off. I was just curious to the sound quality and the bass output. i was thinking port to punch and sealed for quality
I think with MSO (multi subwoofer optimizer - free software) you can get great results for any combination of SB and PB subwoofers.
Hi Gene, how would you look at this topic with all the new tech around? Thinking about if its easier these days with software like Dirac Bass control software?
I have twin ported 15" subs. I tried to do one but my room's sound stage forced the purchase of #2 as my ear is trained.
Great to see you back producing more content Gene.
I have 3 SVS pb2000 pro, two front as a rear, time aligned and blended through my miniDSP. My back sub doesn’t fit the space well and want to switch it to the sb2000 for smaller cabinet size. I’m nervous it won’t blend as well. I need some reassurance :)
I’m good at rew and mini dsp, just don’t want it to sound bad
Gene, how about two different size ported subs?
Depends on the application
Great video Gene would love to know if we should be using dB meters when setting up EQ or Audyssey and is Audyssey just working out distance, crossover and levels or does it do other things in the background - thanks Mark and I so glad your better
I use to run 4 sealed 10s and a 12 in a large ported enclosure. Ran off a Phoenix Gold 1200 rms amp. That was back when 1200 rms cost $1500... It sounded f-ing amazing. Super clean and loud . If I unhooked the 12 it was still clean and loud just didn't have the crazy low hit . Everyone was shocked by the output and SQ.
Currently putting together a 4 ten inch subwoofer box with 2 sealed and 2 ported. On a 1200 rms amp. They are Kenwood excelon subwoofers and a powerbass 1205d amp.
Crazy how much the cost of good power amps have come down . The same quality 4 subs and amp back in 04 cost me $2700. The new system cost $1000 with the kenwood excelon dpx793bh head unit included lol 😄
I have a Alpine Type R 15" in a 4,6 ft3 porten box, fs -3db - 20Hz. Connectet to a DAP X1300 and a DSPeaker 8033s-2.
Yes. I have a svs sb13 ultra. A paradigm studio sub 15 up front and behind the couch a svs pb 12 plus 2 tuned to 20hz.
How does it sound?
Your lighting bro!!!!
The top of your head is glaring while your face is in a shadow.
Dude.
Glad your back with the family Gene. Using 2 pb1000 and also definitive technology bp 9060. Love the setup and now finishing the basement. Cant wait to set this system up the right way with some tuning. Keep the vids coming. Curious on your thoughts integration of stand alone subs and built in such as my setup.
Thank you Gene. Ive been asking/reading about this for a few months prior to upgrading to Dual Subs. I had a sealed Monitor Audio RSW-12 and thought of adding to it but in the end I went for Dual SVS PB2000's. Great Advice and confirms all Ive been reading. Does anyone know if I use Central wall placement Front - Rear, Do they have to line up exactly and does it matter if the line of sight between the Subs is broken i.e Sofa/Coffee table ? Thanks
Good info Gene! I have a SVS PB16 Ultra, I have REW and the microphone but I am a newbie to using REW but my preliminary tests look pretty good to my eyes. I also have Polk Audio LSi15's - 4 of them for my front and rear surrounds.
Man svs makes a badass subwoofer id like to get my hands on for an automotive application it is a 16 in subwoofer with an 8 in voice coil
I used to run 2x 12inch sealed subs Dali e12f, they went down to 28hz on the spec sheet, I had them down to 24hz in my room, I changed them out for 2x 12inch ported, svs pb2000, reason was to get a deeper base response, I do get that but placement is limited and I don't think I'm getting the best out of them, I have however just purchased the microphone to work with REW based on your subwoofer measurement video, it's in the post so when it arrives I can have a play to hopefully get them right.
My LCR,SL,RL are all ported. Should i plug them all in the port to seal them? Especially the front towers!?
I'm using just one sub (Dali E12f) and it seems quite ok, not sure I would get good value per space&buck if get another sub. I feel the base is quite powerful as is, just did a subcrawl to assure it is in the right spot. Maybe if I would have guests more often that would be a reason to get another sub, but with 1-2 people near the sweet spot I don't think that is money well spend.
Great video as always, thx Gene.
Gotta love your answer though Gene. I am an IT consultant and quite often I have to give that answer: ”it depends” 😂
Awesome video.
I am using definitive technology super cubes. I love the bass radiators in there designs I find the bass is deep and tight. Everyone's ears crave a different type of bass. In my vehicle I have a 2,000 watt in a 1 ohm load in a sealed box and it punches hard. I am a fan of tight punchy bass.
Vinny, what sub are you using in your car, and would you consider it a SQ woofer? I'm running a 2ohm load right now as to not damage my 1200 watt sub, but I'd like to find its replacement closer to 2k.
I have two front towers that have two 10" infinity kappa perfect sealed subs ine each tower. And a 18" dayton ultimax in a ported mini marty. I have that because i was building the front towers and found the 18" sub with the box for 200$ and i coudnt let it pass by. Sound pretty damn good. Im thinking of replacing two of the front tower subs for a 10" midvass. To put those 10" subs in sealed boxes in the back of the room.
I have 2-12 pioneer in sealed 1.5 box side each at 200 watts then I I have 1 sundown audio x15 d2 v3 in a 5.5 cubic feet box that’s 1.5 inches thick all the way around with the slot of it is thick with a flare at the front it’s running off a 2100 watt synergy audio ! These are in a Toyota
4-runner . I have the hard hitting bass and I have the low like warp wind movement . I have a low pass filter to we’re 20hz and higher play but it doesn’t let any thing lower play into my subwoofers! The reason for it for me is to get the fullest sound from my lows . But I’ve got hertz audio 8” woofers in the doors rear and 8” ds audio in from door alpine head unit that I can adjust the timing and it has eq in it also I can download from alpine a cd to put in it with custom adjustments . I also have alpine silk dome tweeters at the tops of my apillers and in the rear window control area of the side area of the door . Along with metal horn tweeters in the tops of the front door by ds audio they match the 8” woofers as a component set with Sony crossover to split my sounds and the head unit has its own subwoofer out put running into audio controls epicenter for the bas control . I also has the newest version of the epicenter I’m thinking of combining them both in there this way I can have one on my 12’s and 1 on my 15 . I can understand what your saying about the tuning of this set up it took some time working with some one just ridding around playing different music and tuning my amps to get the max out of each set up at the same volume level. Well I do have 2 American bass x max monsters and a 8000 watt amp with two full sheets of 3/4 oak veneer 13 layer ply wood so I’m thinking about ditching my current set up for this new one along with the new epicenter micro that has way more adjustments on it . I found a long time ago the better equipment that you have the better the sound you get and the less complications you have tuning it ! The one thing that’s the most important I’d say is your THD number of your out put into the amp and the same with the amp . Seems the lower that number the loader and cleaner the sound you get. The next thing that’s real big is sound deadening holding the sound in and not to have anything rattling makes the sound so much better . Playing out of a vehicle Is like playing out of a big tin can so I’ve stiffened everything up then have 3-4 different types and layers of sound deadening in the top all 5 doors and the rear quarters and the bottom floor is really dead ended with 30% more plush carpet from the stock carpet ! An no I haven’t been to any competitions they say they can hear me from around 2 miles away so I don’t know how loud I am in db’s I say pretty high but idk I know it sounds good no matter what I play it’s clear and full ranged sharpest of high and ground pounding bass ! If I’m not playing it with the windows up we’ve whispered to each other and can hear so easy what’s being said it’s really super quit barley can tell there’s almost no outside noise at all ! It’s unreal what sound deadening will do. I think it’s way over looked and over doing it I think that helps even more . Like the rear plate or tag I got the washers with rubber on them . Face the steel against the steel so 2 washers for each of the 4 holes rubber against the plate and against the vehicle body . They were the ones you use on tin roofs but they keep that vibrating noise I can’t stand from my tag being made ! Kiss had a song called loud I wanna hear it loud right between the eyes . I like that only if it’s clean I’m almost 50 when I was 6 years old my dad gave me a play building and about 20 different speakers and 1 12volt battery with 3 car head units from stock to kraco and realistic brands of course I hooked up everything from all the combos that’s what got me looking at the numbers and more interested in audio . I like the theater also I have a part set up but not all together with a Rockville RPA16 10,000 watt concert amp to start it with and a behringer 750 watt also I haven’t gotten to how manny and what kind of speakers to run just yet but I should have plenty power ! Great video I liked and subscribed ! Audio if no one can talk over it, you can fell it, you can almost touch it, and it’s coming through loud & clear! Then there’s nothing any better !
Especially when it’s something you like listing to !
Question . I have a yamaha rx-a 1080 av receiver . I am running bic acousteck pl series speakers. I have 4 pl980 towers , pl 28 center ,2 pl 89 towers ,2 pl-66 book shelf , 4 pl200 long throw subs . I wanted to know if my speakers are quality speakers and what kind of av receiver I would get the best profofmance with. To me it still seems under powered for the money I have invested in everything I really want a good sounding system all around at levels of volume. Help would be much appreciated.Also I bought a crown 2502 and it did not seem to sound clear and clips fairly easy pushing 2 of the bic acousteck pl 980 speakers . The crown 2502 amplifier also has a constant hiss at low volumes and i even bought a power conditioner. Thanks in advance.
I have a SVS SB-1000 Pro in our open concept 5.1 system, Denon AVR-X4500H. I would like to add one more SVS Sub, I like to increase the effect for movies. I don't mind getting a miniDSP and
We use two Dynavoice challenger sub 10" ex active subwoofers with Denon AVR-X3600H!
I have a pair of ported sub and I just replaced one of the ported sub with a sealed sub. I think got lucky with my system. It just wow's me.
I say by error (long story), I have the sb16 and pb16 ultra in my cinema room. This is a great video - thank you.
If you mix subs like this, the placement is key. I had a single ported and single sealed sub in different corners of the room and it was very annoying. If there was an explosion in a movie, the 30Hz and above would come from one area of the room and the lower frequencies at the end of the explosion would come from the opposite corner of the room.
Clint Martin you must have had a really crappy room and or subs , as a sub going that deep you should not be able to place by hearing it.
Having two identical subs can be annoying if you don't place them right i had one up front one in back ,kept trying too blend both together back sub was too bassy after I kept turning it down extra dbs so I moved both up front perfect at same settings
What is the best unit to purchase in order to calibrate all the subwoofers? Also, if I purchase svf subwoofers that have the software built into them, do I need to purchase some type of unit to calibrate the subwoofers to work together or is that not needed then?
Great timing ive been literally thinking about this the last couple days currently im running 2 sealed subs looking to add another possibly ported
I have the ultra towers and ultra center with two SVS satellites for surrounds, and I’m trying to figure out whether or not I should go with two sealed SVS subs or two ported. Not sure what would go best with this combo of speakers? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
i have a mix. It's not that complicated. Sealed one is an 8 inch 180watt rms woofer. The range is between 30 and 300hz. The ported one has a 10" 125 watts rms woofer, and a range from 20hz to 150hz or so. Basically i use the ported sub for the low frequencies (i set it on 50hz) and the sealed one for more musical bass (i set the sealed one to 250hz). They don't need to do exactly the same to sound good, think of it as a monitor speaker, one speaker is for low frequencies, one is for the higher pitched frequencies. Took me some hours to make it sound good (not high end but those subs aren't high end anyways) luckily i have a receiver with a measurement option, that helped me alot to find the best sound
One SVS PC-2000 paired with the 10 inch subs in my Def Tech BP-9060 towers using minidsp 2x4 HD. I was able to get decent measurements using REW and lots of tweaking. Probably not an ideal setup as the subs in the towers are less capable, but I am happy with it for now. I set all 3 subs to 50% volume and adjusted the gain on the minidsp to level match all 3 prior to doing EQ. I keep meaning to go back and tweak some more. I didn't play with changing the roll off slopes. Since the subs in the towers have passive radiators they are more similar to a ported sub or sealed sub?
I was just wondering this today. Excellent discussion. Way over my head, I'll stick with the same subs when I add #3 and #4. Thanks!
Very informative video. I am using an REL 528 sealed subwoofer and had it in the same system with Kinergetics dual subwoofers with a seperate amplifier. Now I just have the REL and am considering adding a second subwoofer. Sounds like getting another sealed, similar subwoofer would be best. Any comments? The rest of the system is all Martine Logan ESL for front and ML boxed with AMT type tweeters making up an 11.1 system.
Thanks.
very good Inf..?? can I connect dual center channel speakers if yes.how
Would you consider subs with passive radiators as ported for the purposes of mixing and matching types of sub?
I take it you did not get an answer to this? I had the same question
@@bootch70 No, but I had forgotten that I had asked that question.
i used a lot of subs.i like the most thoose with passive radiators
Thank you for the education young man.
I have 2x Klipsch R115sw and want to up grade I am looking at 2 x Svs pb 300s or 1 x 16 ultra, I was going with the Sealed 16 ultra but you video changed that, my room is 19 x 9 x 12 ft, would the pb 16 ultra be over kill with the klipsch, or maybe just sell the klipsch.
This question might be off topic, but I knew you would have a good answer. Regarding reference offset levels(denon), where do you set yours? -5, -10, -15, or off? Thank and keep up the great work!!!!
What about the reverse of your example. A bog sealed sub (dayton ultimax Um18-22) and a smaller ported sub (infinity Kappa perfect 12D Vq at mid Q insert).
I have a dayton um18-22 in a sealed enclosure (24"x24"x24".
And i have a kappa 12" that i am planning to build an enclosure in the next weeks.
My room is a open concept; great room, dining, kitchen, foyer. The great room is 2 storey tall and presents a great sense of tall spacious sound. The sectional couch is 9x13' so unfortunately there is a more dramatic sweet spot in the middle seats.
Bass is output from mains pair of 12" JBL sealed, pair of ported 6.5" Mission, 10" ported powered sub tied into the mains for signal (RCA jacks broke), and a 15" velodyne servo sealed.
I have the JBL high pass at 40hz, missions 60hz. for subs; 10" ported 100hz lowpass, and the 15" velodyne at 40hz lowpass.
Individually findings on each speaker;
missions - punchy bass in the 60hz area for music, they don't go deep at all, relatively narrow frequency range (total)
JBL very flat curve, but not much punch and not that fast. Can play bass very low that you can feel. Nice quality sound with a huge wide frequency range. Very sweet sounding.
10" ported sub - punchy in the 60hz area and quick. Doesnt like to play too low hense why i have them set at 100hz crossover lowpass. They help the JBL in the higher bass area.
The velodyne has a flat bass response curve and loves extending into the sub frequencies that you feel. I don't need more bass above 40hz so i have it crossed over around 45 lowpass because again it loves the deep end!
Overall, it sounds great! Are there issues, absolutely but it would take A LOT of tuning to make it perfect, so im just happy the way it is.
What i would change the most is even though i have bass management set to send bass to the mains as well as the subs (200hz lowpass), I find there is not much bass that is sent to the mains during processing. Seems to me like the marants wants the sub to do everything despite the settings (although i do have the bass management set to force the mains to put out bass too). Im sure i have some bass cancelation going on, but i don't think there would be a simple way of configuring via some kind of dsp box that you mentioned? I am slightly limited to placement of the subs, they are all along the front wall and unfortunately there is no wall directly behind the couch to bounce the bass off of.
Question, how much would a dsp box help with bass phase cancelation?
How much would the audessey mic help with that?
Marantz AV7702 MKii
McIntosh 100x6 amp
ADA amp 75x12
oppo 105
Great video Gene, Hey I have a 10"100watt ported active sub and an 6" 100watt passive ported sub.(from an old HTB) Was thinking I could purchase a plate amp and turn the 6" to an active sub and try and do a dual sub setup.
What are your thoughts on that kind of mix
Hi there, 18" sealed sub (diy from ultimax 18) because I prefer the characteristics that sealed concept provides over ported one (Gene desctibed them). I'm not that much into loudness and I guess my house limits it as I have big ground to ceiling windows that I don't want to break when it's not summer ;-). ... I probably have already broke one just with my main speakers ( something like avantgarde acoustics one)
Gene, I'm looking for a (cheap)calibration microphone, and I'm noticing, that the Dayton Audio UMM-6 and the miniDsp UMIK-1, go down only to 18-20Hz. How do you measure below those frequencies, when you calibrate?
Passive radiators never seem to get addressed. Would a subwoofer with a passive radiator be considered a third category or would it technically be consider sealed?
it's more related to a ported design than sealed.
Hi. My family room has 3 walls (front, right, back), the 4th side (left) is open to the kitchen. I have 2 identical subwoofers. One subwoofer is located at the front right of the room. My family room is 17' wide x 15' deep x 9' ceiling.
QUESTION: I have 2 locations that I can place the 2nd subwoofer. I read that option C is better but I would prefer option D below. Your thoughts?
C) the rear left of the room (I read that this is the preferred but the subwoofer would be an eyesore)
D) the rear right of the room (the subwoofer would be hidden.) Is it ok to place it here? Would it sound bad if both subwoofers are located at the front-right and rear-right of the room?
Thanks.
Hey Gene I know I am a bit late posting this question, but I have just been doing some thinking about what I next want to buy, so their is no need for any rush, I am not even sure if you will see this comment since this video is at least 2 years old…. But so at the present time i have 2 pb-3000, but i just got a new receiver (Denon A1H) which as 4 subwoofer outputs, so I am just trying to figure out, if I add 2 more subwoofers what do I want to do… I could either save up for 2 bigger subs (2’pb-4000s, or 2 pb-16 ultras… to see what type of bass I like best… or I could just go with my current set up, and buy 2 more pb-3000….
I don’t have a sub yet and was debating weather to start with 2 speed subwoofers or 1 HSU VTF 15-MK2 or 1 HSU ULS 15. I figured in about a year I could add another subwoofer. I am worried that over the long run the 2 speedwoofer won’t be enough and that I should start with just 1 of the bigger subs for now. Any thoughts?
I have one SVS PB-2000 sub. I want to get one of the Monolith 10" subs to put into the setup. Hope they work well. Might be too much for such a small room, though. In fact, the 10" sub might work better in the room than the SVS 12". I'll find out, I guess.
If I was you I'd get another pb2000 while they are still available at a mark down price...good luck!
Great video Godfather....
Can you mix different ported subs together? I have an SVS PC12-NSD. They don't make it anymore so I am considering a PC-2000. Would that blend well with the PC 12 NSD?
Now I’m NOT subwoof expert and will never claim or pretend to be so
But one thing I don’t understand about mixing ported & sealed is that wouldn’t mixing them help with the shortcomings of either or
They both have pros and cons obviously due to design and what they can do
I would think that by mixing a sealed & ported sub I would be able to get low deep end extension and then when the ported will roll of a cliff like they tend to do beyond their port tuning point then the sealed would carry the torch from there since they have more of a gradual roll off at the deep end
Or am I not understanding something that someone can help better explain to me 🤷♂️
Hi sr. I hope you got a great Thanksgiving. Sorry for bother you, can I send you a file of my measurement using rew and umik 1? I don't know if the graphic is ok or I have to do more measurements
When i need accurate info yojr the man
Hi Gene, I’ve been shopping for a subwoofer the last couple of months. I would love to hear your thoughts about REL subwoofers. They have a set up called REL 3D, where I am considering running two main subwoofers, a smaller center, and a rear subwoofer. The high level connectors make them very unique. Thanks
I have 1 12' derected sxd12 in a ported box with 3000 blau punkt d class amp in my car I've had the sub for bought 11 years and it's hitting Hader than when I got it
Great info! I'm running two RSL 10s; are they considered ported or sealed? Thanks
RONALD KLINE 10s is a ported sub.
What about mixing a pb 13 and a sb 13
Greetings from Germany. I am a subscriber now and I have a question. I have a decent 5.1.2 speaker set up and the Yamaha rxv 683 avr.
I want to upgrade and I wanna know if the Yamaha rxa 2080 is a good update in terms of overall performance.
I saw the power specs and I am a little suspicious. My speakers are from a German company and cost a few thousand euros which is basically a few thousand dollars.
Would appreciate if you can give me your advice💪
Use a 1.5x power calculation as a starting point.
For example, 8" front firing ported sub ~100w + 12" down firing sealed sub ~150w. It is important that driver/ports DONT point straight at the two nearest walls. This is to reduce standing waves.
Never put two subs in the corners of a room.
Also it is important
In over 90% of cases I've seen customers purchasing overpowered subs. This is absolutely un-necessary. Two smaller underpowered sub(s) can be placed closer to a corner to get some room-gain. But you cant do much with a single large, heavy, overpowering sub.
Gene, sound is much better. Now I suggest a more Profesional room and or background.
I think the lighting needs improvement. The ceiling lights are reflecting off Gene's head and the color is really weird.
@@59seank until I move, there is no fix for the lighting when i shoot videos in my office.
@@Audioholics Gene, thanks for the videos. I always learn something!
@@Audioholics or is there? Here comes another 4 hour convo on lighting 🙀
Thanks
if the sb16 was larger there'd be a chance it could get more output at the lower frequencies than it
Excellent video
So here is a question. 1st ported and sealed, personaly i perfer ported. Sealed isn’t bad by any means depending on the type of subwoofer used and build quality of the cabinet, but has anyone ever thought of possibly a 4th order bandpass style box? I have one made for a 10in subwoofer at 300 watts rms, And man does it shake! But anyone else try this and also had good results?
I'll be putting a bandpass in the attic, external port going into the ceiling via a 6.5" in ceiling speaker that I gutted. Doesn't work for everyone. The 12" sub should hit 20hz at 105db with 200w and be invisible; rolloff starts at 60hz.
Michael Carper that’s sounds like a really good idea! I sure hope that really works out! 👍🏼. I eneded up using a kicker 10 inch. But i was thinking of getting rid of that and using a kicker 12 solobaric with 300 watts. But not sure would be louder and heavier for my space for sure.
Hi. Can I hook up 3 Subwoofers out of one Subwoofer out put from my AVR-3310CI thank you. N stay well
You can, but to get them to integrate well you would want to run them through a DSP, such as a miniDSP 2x4, so that you can correctly time align them such that they work with each other rather than against each other. Plus the DSP will allow you to EQ them to smooth out the bumps.
So can you mix subs with similar specs like a rel ht/1205 and a svs sb2000
I'm actually doing this now, but I'm using MiniDSP and it takes time and effort to get them to optimize
Can I use 2 sealed subs jl e-sub 12" and velodyne 10" servo drive in My Home theater System.
Yes you can.
As stated in the video it's all about tuning.
Why don't we just put high pass filter on sealed sub at 50hz so it plays only above 50hz then put a low pass filter on them ported sub so it plays only content below 50hz down to infrasonic frequency. Anyone knows any videos that explains this?
I do this all the time. Match the slope of the subs at tuning of the ported and they blend properly
It's much easier to stick with one bass alignment for all subs, however.