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My parents had a "console" system from the late 1950's that I updated decades ago (only saved the cabinet) ... the speakers behind the non-removable grills were Philco (Ford) 6x9's with wizzer cones...
would an external crossover have helped if they were wired up to the crossover directly ? like in a component set up not a coaxial ?! i read alot of reviews saying the coaxials are a bit disappointing, but component speakers tend to get more favorable reviews on sound quality. Probably going to get someone to make me a small stereo using marine grade car components, shopping around for now just sorting though stuff,. loved the video, have a great day !
Well, as a beginner mechanic back in the 80's, my boss took that 6x9 Jensen & cut the proper hole into an AC-Delco box, mounted the speaker with only sealant & it sounded fantastic compared to the cheap speaker in the small am FM radio! Filled the shop with nice warm sound!
I did something similar using a size 12 walmart shoe box and some old IBM speakers and a Dell amp. There was ABSOLUTELY nothing under 150Hz, but it was still pretty good for 5 watts. It basically sounded like some cheap early 80's bookshelf speakers. 😂
In a car, the door acts as a large baffle. If you want to put car audio drivers in a small enclosure, you need baffle step compensation in the crossover. That is why you are getting all mid and high frequencies with no bass. Car audio speakers actually work pretty well when used as in-wall speakers, with a little EQ from an AV receiver.
Thanks for this 'experiment'. Reminds me of my first system I rigged when I was a teen. Two 6x9 2-way Alpine car speakers and a Blaupunkt car radio cassette player powered by a 12V 5A power adapter. All mounted in a plywood enclosure I made (like giant boombox). Hardest part was to make oval cutouts with the tools I had. Sounded bad but not awful. It was fun. Listened to it for few months then the cassette player died. Used the speakers to 'upgrade' my father's Oldsmobile. 😀
You just confirmed my teenage experience. Back when I was 12 years old I salvaged a flood damaged pioneer receiver. Cleaned out the mud. Cleaning the controls and tuning cap was fun. Replaced internal fuses and it worked. So I replaced the front glass (broken when it fell during the flood) and used it in my bedroom until I left home. My first speakers were cheap car speakers from a swap meet then slightly better car speakers and finally a pair of mid-tier large Radio Shack bookshelf speakers on A and B was a pair of small Radio Shack realistic minimus 7's (at the time I couldn't decide which were better...).
Cool story! Back in the mid 80s when I was 15, I rescued a 70s pioneer receiver from a dumpster. Just needed 2 internal fuses. I made my own RadioShack speakers that probably didn't sound very good but I was just so happy with myself.
The best sounding Hi-Fi setup I have heard uses three-way 6x9 car speakers with no baffles (as in just the speaker) along with a subwoofer. Place the speakers at ear height 2 feet from the wall and EQ the amp or source to linearize the frequency response. The sound stage and voicing from this no baffle set up when dialed in correctly is amazing. The reflected sounds from the back of the speaker cones arrives several milliseconds later at the listening position due to phase and distance which makes the sound lush and dimensional. Also, there is an Atmos like effect going on due to the rear of the speaker cone radiating sound in all directions, Walsh style. Again, I say that the best sounding Hi-Fi setup I have heard uses three-way 6x9 car speakers with no baffles along with a subwoofer. Probably the closest I have heard that compares are a pair of Devialet Phantoms. Most amps probably do not have enough EQ to pull this off as up to 30 dB of adjustment is needed to line up everything. Search for "Nvarcher Bluetooth 5.0 DSP Audio Amplifier" on ali exp. This 20$ DSP module has enough adjustment copiabilities. I told you all you need to know so if you don't act, then you will be doomed to an eternal sub optimal listening experience.
I was able to do it with four 6x9's and two cabinets. Angled baffle to eliminate reflected noise, pure sound only. Squeezed every Hz of bass out of the 6x9's using a transmission line box. These things would rival a Polk system. The speakers are in my videos.
In the mid-80’s I had a couple of mid 70’s era wooden heavy duty 12” 3-way home audio speakers that I was laying in the hatch of a 1980 Chevette that I could pull out of the hatch back and set on the ground so we could listen to music at the park while playing hackey sack, throwing frisbees, or while partying by the river, lol. They sounded great from what I remember.
Randy, you could make a LOT of content doing stuff like this. I've generally considered car audio drivers to be overpriced due to markup, but then again I've done some installs in vehicles where the final result blew me away for the price. I'm currently in the middle of the fence between using the easy, accepted way of doing car audio (Crutchfield / premade packs), and doing it all custom, buying raw parts from parts express (and sometimes 3d printing vehicle specific adapters and pods) and making something super unique, but of course that comes with a much bigger possibility of catastrophic failure.
I always wondered how the market is for 3rd party head units to replace factory ones these days. Back in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, replacing the "radio" wasn't hard, but today everything seems so integrated with lots of complicated wire harnesses some of which might control other functions, I wonder if many people mess with them other than just maybe upgrading the speakers. Of course Crutchfield is still in business, so maybe I'm underestimating that market today.
@@rosswarren436 that's a great point, and a big reason I'm worried for the future of car audio. Before 2015 or so, most cars had standalone head units that could be removed and replaced with a couple hours and less than ~$50 worth of brackets and harnesses. Now, the electronics systems are so interconnected that there often isn't really a head unit to remove; the entire car is one huge conglomeration of systems. Pair that with the baffling trend of adding as many drivers as possible to the car (since more = better to the average consumer), and you have many vehicles that are basically non-upgradable. That is unless you go the route of doing it fully custom: buying unique raw parts, fabricating your own speaker locations, running all of your own cables, everything. It's an interesting conundrum.
so im kinda a cheap person and wanted some kind of home audio for my setup and ended up having 2 5.25 4 way car speakers and 2 4x6 car speakers along with an old Sony "theater" system subwoofer. i already know that its not gonna sound like an actual system that has been tuned properly but for just how little it cost me the sound is great and full. i cant wait to one day have a proper set up tho but for now I'm broke but jammin.
When I was in High School (early 1980's) a friend gave me a pair of no-name home speakers with an 8" full-range driver and a front facing port (probably came from an all-in one stereo).The port had a silver surround making it look like a tweeter under the grill. I enlarged the port in each speaker enclosure and mounted a 5 1/4" coaxial car speaker. I then disconnected the speaker leads to the 8" full range driver, thereby converting it to the roll of passive radiator. The end result was respectable with the coaxial speaker providing decent mids and highs while the psuedo passive radiator provided much better (lower and tighter) bass than it offered as a speaker in the original full-range, vented configuration. A lot of my friends were impressed.
Fun stuff...reminds me of when I was in high school. I mix matched speakers and enclosures all the time. I had a buddy that took out the back seats in his old car and set up 2 12inch home stereo speaker enclosures lol. We were jobless and just wanted stereo. Late 80's were a fun time.
Takes me back. My first home 'stereo' was the already classic Craig snorkel car 8-track player and two Jensen Traxial car speakers on a bookshelf hooked up to a power converter. I was 14, it was 1975
Back in the early '80s I actually took home audio speaker components and installed them in my '77 Camaro Z28 door panels. Actually had to use a cutting torch to make holes in the door since there were no factory speakers there 😂... Don't remember exactly what I had to power them, but I think it was one of those awful Jet Sound under dash EQ/power amps 😂. Sounded pretty good for 1982 listening to Iron Maiden lol.
Hooked up an Allegro home speaker in my Dodge Colt back in 1989. Took up pretty much the majority of the back seat. Sounded great to my 21 year old ears. . I also listened to a lot of hard rock and metal at the time and that system rocked. Lol
LOVE THIS... takes me back to college days. To be honest... GOOD car speakers are more expensive than many home speakers add cost of cabinet, they no longer make financial sense. But yes... in my young days i had more time than money built a decent pair using old 6x9s and left over particle board.
I Love messing with speakers and enclosures, swapping things around just to see what works. Cool vid. BTW I got my Scss-5's in today open box from Amazon paid $68, they were flawless not a scratch on them. Paired them with Ayima a08.
I had a set of Jensen Triax 6x9'd left over from a job so I built a set of scaled down Klipsch Cornwall cabinets out of some scrap 3/4" marine plywood I had on hand. Banana jacks in the rear and sprayed flat black I plugged them into a Sonic Impact 10w amp with a BT adaptor and OMG, they sounded like a set of Altec Lancing studio monitors. I then hooked them up to my old Sherwood 9910 receiver and they really came to life. What a treat, bright, encompassing and a full bodied sound they were a joy to listen to. I still use them for an outdoor projection screen and they sound great and are tough as nails. Add a port to you cabinets, it will make all the difference.
Back in the late 80's I had a pair of fairy cheep Audiovox 6X9 tri axle speakers. I put them in a old 2-way speaker enclosure. I did roughly the same as you, I didn't use the crossover. But what I did was get new terminals for the back. also cut out the original speaker baffle. Put a new piece of wood in for the baffle and I also had to counter sink the opening to get a flush mount for the speakers. The wood was pressboard like the rest of the enclosure. It cost me like $20 or $25 for the wood and terminals. I was able to use the 6X9 grills also. For what it's worth, they sounded pretty damn good and didn't cost me much to do the mod.
I get better bass from my car speakers when I use Sith Audio Bass Enhancer Wipes. They clean, shine and protect all my speakers! Get some today! Great video CAM :-)
Those factory replacements are bottom end speakers at around $30 each and distort easily. Of course the sound is shallow and weak, no matter the application. However, the last Fosgates I purchased were about $350 and included actual crossovers. They sounded VASTLY different. Very nice. But these better built car speakers are still in need of a subwoofer. No surprise with the outcome here. I once did the same thing with Pioneers best four-ways in some sealed enclosures. Again, with a sub, I thought they sounded really good and hung 4 of these up in the corners of my living room. Call me crazy and lazy... I really did enjoy them! 👋
If you left the Dayton speaker intact and allowed the original woofer to be a passive radiator then made a separate opening for the car speaker you'd have success. Did this years ago with an old pair of home speakers. Made a crude 6x9 opening on top of the home speakers for some Jensen car speakers. Worked excellent !! Whiskey may have had something to do with my assessment of excellent tho.
I once had an old Sony Trinitron TV that finally died and rather than try to carry this monster to the dumpster I decided to dismantle and take it out in pieces. It had two 2.75" full range drivers and the magnets were REALLY heavy so I put them in an old pair of cheap Kenwood enclosures that had blown speakers and they sounded pretty good!
i removed the speakers from a chinese 32 inch tv since they sound terrible anyway, they were extremely small and even advertised as "harman kardon" in some firmware but i would also say that the tv had a wrong speaker size setting in the service menu that made it sound worse than what it already is
My main speakers, AR Phantom 8.3 (probably the last decent gear that AR made, before they went all "Recoton" - literally and figuratively), use "Illusion" bass drivers, typically used for car audio. They're very shallow, with the magnet assembly in front of the cone. They sound good to me!
I had small bookshelf speakers that had the woofer (4-inch) and tweeters die on me. Like you, I substituted new 2-way German brand co-axial car speakers that I had on hand in place of the woofer. They don’t sound great but I use them as workshop speakers and they do a decent job.
The original Dayton speaker has a much heavier cone which increases bass response at the expense of efficiency. The large magnet helps bring it back some, but will be no where near the efficiency of a car speaker. Car speakers are designed on totally different principles. That's why you can't just throw one in an enclosure. Generally car speakers have a lighter cone, a higher Q(weaker magnet), and a stiffer suspension to mimic being mounted in an enclosure. Considering these parameters, a larger, ported enclosure would be optimal.
The last car speakers I fought with were Polk Audio 6x9 3 ways. Can't remember the model... 125W peak I think. I had a kenwood head unit and found out pretty quickly I needed an amp to drive them... Keep in mind, I was driving a 2006 mercury grand marquis at the time... but I like loud clean sounding metal. In the store displays, the PA's had a really nice sound for what I played. I installed the speakers with stock wiring and the HU only and it sounded ok, but would overheat and shut down after not that long at a higher volume... got a kenwood 4x80W amp, had it installed along with trunk to speaker wiring (14awg I think, 4AWG for power)... overheated after about 30 minutes into my first commute to work (commute was an hour). Got a massive audio 4x100W amp... made it 45 minutes. Bought an old school RF 800a4 amp (4x100w RMS) off ebay, luckily it actually worked and had the end caps still. Wow... those 6x9's would POUND! Loud enough to hurt my ears. Very crisp sound! Took forever to get the EQ set right, but it was worth it. I moved that system from one grand marquis to another when I got another (I had 3 of them in a row) until they stopped making them. Sold the car, but all I kept was the amp. Didn't feel like ripping open the doors again and messing with the speakers... they served their purpose for me for 8 years of abuse. Anyway, probably a better caliber of car speaker would work in the house and may have to get creative with the EQ to get them to sound right. I typed all that just to say, it might take more effort than it's worth. lol!
Exact opposite of car speakers in existing cabinets here. In the mid 1970s I made an MDF "plank" with 2 circular cutouts for 8" home speakers that fit exactly over the small cargo space behind the back seat of my 1968 VW Beetle. Had an 8-track with FM (8-track was broken, I hated 8-track) that had a fairly powerful amp in it. Very loud with lots of bass in that small car. The 8" drivers had a treated cloth surround, large magnets and "whizzer" cones to try to make them "Full Range Speakers". No Science involved, just what I could cobble together. Was fun.
I have done something similar to this, I used pyramid 8 inch woofers with 50 ounce magnets to replace the woofers in Bose 301s.I thought I made a big mistake as they sounded terrible, but the more I play them the better they get. Now they sound much better than the original Bose.
I did the same with GW poly woofers....they too, at first sounded weak. After a decent break-in, they sound powerful and clean! BTW how about the pathetic little square magnets on the Bose woofers?...maybe 8 oz. at best!
Back when I built my Home Speaker Cabinets in High School back in '92 I first used realistic speakers cause that's what I could afford at the time. But once I had the money a couple years later I installed Rockford Fosgate car speakers and damn did it sound good. I used Rockford 12" subs (in both cabinets) and then a 4" component set for the mids and tweets. At the time my Receiver had a 4 - 8 ohm switch so it wasn't an issue with the 4 ohm speakers.
i made with my father a homemade bluetooth speaker with two 6x5 speakers from B.buster 4 way speakers (two super twitters, one twetter/mid, an the woofer), amplified with a TPA 3116 D2 class D amplifier, with bluetooth on board. Actually sounds amazing, i cant believe that the sound it's very clear and detailed. the box it's from wood handmade too, with air vents for the speakers.
Interesting. I've been curious about a build like this with Emotiva's ceiling speakers. I don't know why I never thought of car speakers. Thanks for the build!
I had some 6.5 inch 2 way Kenwoods (XR-1701) that sound amazing in my car. Most people would probably shy away at $150 for a pair to put in a box (twice what his costs), but the results would probably be fantastic. Mind you, the speakers in a car typically use the inside of the dash or door compartments as a "box", so you need to err on the side of larger is better. Most car doors are on the order of several cubic feet inside. Those numbers you plug into a program for speaker designs are the minimum recommended box size as well. This is why a 5 or 6 inch speaker in a tower or large box generally sounds a little better. All of that said, don't believe the specs. They all fall off a cliff at about 100hz and a sub is a massive help. He noticed this as well - there was no bass. They are designed such that the rear speakers or sub handles all of the low frequencies.
Car speakers are made for cars for a reason! They're made to work with the car coupé where a lot of the midrange and treble will disappear and the bass will get some help, they also need to be able to take a huge temperature range and moisture, therefore it's not so surprising that a car speaker in that price range will not perform as the home competitor. Move up a bit in price and that will change, still, different goal, different built.
I have 4 car subs and a pair of bookshelf speakers (bose 301 II) with new crossovers, car midrange and tweeters that I'm using as my rear speakers. My front speakers are old bose 501 IV cabinets with car subs, car midrange and goldwood tweetes plus new crossovers. Guarantee if you sat in my living room and watched a movie or listened to music you would not even know I have car gear. Trust me, it sounds excellent
This is hilarious. I love it. This is something that I would tinker around with when I was in high school. In fact, I did this exact same thing as well as in reverse, putting some home speaker things in my car. This brings back memories.
I bought two cyber acoustics powered subwoofer for computers from a thrift shop, removed the subwoofer and used the enclosure for cerwin vega 3-way 6.5" coaxial removed some of the wood to enlarge the opening to get the speaker to fit, I left the power amp inside, sounds a lot better than my previous bookshelf speakers
This is a cool idea. I'm a klipsch man myself. Have a 7.2 surround sound system from them and it is nuts! Clean all the to full volume and enough to rattle the gutters on the house lol
I made an outdoor movie theater from spare stuff I had around the house. I used car speakers and a car amplifier for the sound and it's the best part of the whole set up. I also used some old car speakers in my garage for a bluetooth setup and they sound pretty good. . . but I am comparing that to a small stand alone bluetooth speaker. I think you could also have purchased a better car speaker for the enclosure. Give it another try.
I actually built speakers for my work bench using Ford OEM Door Speakers, I built the cabinet with 3/4” plywood and estimated its size by the volume of the door cavity, I sealed the box with RTV, I was always impressed with sound of these speakers for what they were, they had a good bass response. You need those resonant frequencies, the cabinet can be as important, if not more important than the speakers by themselves.
I had a pair of car speakers in a home made box in college. Didn't have a lot of money then. They worked and that's about all I could say about them. Even used a car amp for them and had a converter all hooked up to a disk man.
Car speakers are designed for an infinite baffle (e.g. car door) and generally have a high Qts as such. I did a similar experiment with some JL coaxials a few years ago and found that in a box they sounded like poo, but then I made an open box with a backing (to mimic a car door) and they sounded much better. Audiophile, no, but at least they had a much better (any) bass response.
Okay dude, here's what you do - 5-1/2 car audio speakers are mids and highs only, that's a known quantity. Re-design a bass reflex box that will house two 8-inch woofers, and apply two of your 5-1/2 speakers and two silk dome tweeters. Build another box so you have a L and R channel. Buy and configure your speaker ohms so they come out 8ohms or 4ohms, depending on your amp. You should now have a speaker box that will rival Polk and JBL floor standing towers.
I have a feeling that in addition to those Rockfords being cheap, they are counting on enhanced bass from the resonance of the door panel and cavity. And yes, the road noise. On the other hand, I am old school. The "music" coming from your car should be properly generated by the engine and the exhaust note. Damn, I miss the whine of the rotary in my old RX-7.
I went the opposite route. I put Peerless speaker drivers into my car driven by an Alpine amp. Not only is it cheaper than a pair of 3 way split car system, but also sounds really good.
When I was younger and poorer, i made rear surrounds using some Radio shack ancient 4" 2 way speakers - built a pair of small sealed enclosures for it and it served me well for quite some time - good clarity on mids is great for surrounds. but of course for music they were lacking bass of course and rather shrill/shouty on the high end with the cheap paper tweeter. but there are exceptions. Paul Carmody made a 6.5" bookshelf using a car audio woofer and he was blown away by the performance, and highly recommended it - but of course you still have to design a crossover in that case.
I took a pair of vintage 1970s Capehart speakers from a cheap stereo system gutted the original wiring and i took out the original 5 inch speakers and replaced them with some cheap scosche 5.25 4 way speakers from walmart along with some cheap car tweeters. Wired them into the speakers and they sound excellent. I use them for my mid and high speakers along with a pair of Fisher STV-891N 15 inch speakers from 1986 which i use as my subs. I run them off of a Kenwood KR-V7060 AV receiver which has dolby pro logic.
In a more so oriented auto environment a two or three way active crossover would be applied that would make the need for Bass from the RF unnecessary anyway. Cabin gain from the component subwoofer in such a system would give you all the bass you would want. EQ would help immensely as well. I've heard some auto systems that rival most home based setups.
Man I had a buddy when I was in high school who built his home set up all out of car stereo equipment. He would get noise complaints from people down the block, and had a hard time even playing music because his CD player would skip so bad due to all the bass. He had two towers with all the component speakers in it. I would love to have known how the hell he did that, as thumping and rumbling a small car is definitely a different task then doing it to a living room. I’m sure my ears weren’t as well adjusted as they are now, but a video about using a decommissioned amazing car stereo in your home would be fun. Especially the bass aspect.
If you know enough about woodworking, make a adapter to fit the hole in the cabinet, then make a hole the size of the speaker being installed, if you use a 3/8 inch thick board it will work much better and add a small amount of volume, (size not loudness), which will increase bass response at the lower end. If the cab does not have damping material add some to each side to reduce a boomy sound and create a flatter response! The response can be adjusted with a parametric EQ, not a graphic EQ. Or use a active speaker management system.
Nice video and great change of pace with a fun twist. Great to see results after the recent survey. Keep being you and having fun with the channel and having us along for the ride.
The high sensitivity would mean if you want deep bass, it needs to go in a large enclosure. In a small enclosure, you'll tend to either have almost no bass, or boomy bass around 100hz. So your results are not surprising. This is a result of Hoffman's Iron law of speaker bass performance. A 3-way car driver is hopeless for home hifi. But car woofers have a chance. The good thing about these monstrosities is they'll allow a ridiculous amount of cone excursion before distortion. If you comb through the thiele-small parameters, and build an appropriately sized enclosure (that would likely be very large), I'm convinced you could get some really good results for the low end.
On the other side, I put hifi speakers into my trunk (its a combi), paired them with a pioneer headunit having dynamic bass on, and it is better than having an actual woofer back there lol
I have a feeling you knew the results making this video and did it as a service saving others time to do such a thing. I did it years ago and got basically the result you did.
I live in Brazil, home audio gear is not a great market over here, in terms of variety. The officialy aviable options tends to be pretty expensive. Car audio, in the other hand, is a huge market and by far the most affordable option for who wants a decent music experience. Bookshelf speakers and audio systems made that way are pretty popular among the general public.
In fact, and unfortunatelly, there is almost zero interest in bookshelf cabinets at all, even less in the diy, made with car speakers here. Nobody really does it. Most of the brazilians doesn't even know what a bookshelf speaker cabinet is. What we have is lousy cabinets made with car speakers, yes, but for "entertaining" purposes only (usually barbecues, in wich they play extremely crappy music), not for hi-fi/hi-res or home theater applications. But I see your point. I myself made some cabinets with car audio speakers and you can get great results with it.
@@guilhermev3545 I thought Edifier, Microlab and other similar brands got to Brazil. I mean if there's not interest (here in Argentina there's barely..or rather was an interest) at least there is the option for the few ones who has that interest.
I’ve often wondered how the Hertz Mille Legend MLK 1650.3’s that are in my Truck would compare to any of my home audio speakers. The Hertz Mille Legends are components and sound amazing in my truck. Much higher quality (and cost) than the Rockford’s. Thanks for the video, it was a fun experiment.
I remember when Best Buy sold 5.25" 2 way KLH bookshelf speakers for $17.99 each. Around that same time a pair of Sony 2 way speakers with 5.25 woofer similar to the SSCS5 cost $24.95 each or $50 a pair. This was back in 2001.
@@peterlarkin762 Yes magnets will definitely damage your watch, particularly mechanical pieces as you say. Some watches are shielded usually by a soft iron ring inside the case, but not many. If you do magnetise your watch it will start loosing or gaining large amounts of time or even stop. It can be repaired but it means a full strip down and service, they pass the part's through a coil to un magnatise them. Problem is its going to cost hundreds, my cronomat is £700 od for a full service, so it's better to be safe. Quartz watches are much less at risk, some will tell you they're OK but there are plenty of steel parts in a quartz movement and the likely outcome is a slight loss of accuracy. Hope this helps you out. All the best, John
Watches can be magnetized fairly easily, but they can also be demagnetized fairly easily with a ten dollar tool from Amazon. I’ve never heard of them needing to be stripped down over magnetism.
@@Sethw1984 Yes you can just pass the complete watch through a coil, you can easily make the coil yourself but it won't do such a good job as stripping it down, and it is unlikely to restore it to full accuracy. If you are dealing with a cheap watch fair enough give it a go but a decent time piece, I suppose it depends on how much you care about it and how easily you can replace it. My Breitlings always go back to Breitling for any work, shure it's expensive but they come back like new. My cronomat runs to a couple of seconds a week and my sea wolf to around five seconds a week. They took a life time of saving to get, I'm just a ordinary working class guy, I wouldn't dare put a ten quid amazon tool in the same room as them. Any of my other stuff, Tag, Oris, Roamer etc goes to Goldsmiths excellent workshops. That's just me, at the end of the day your watches, your money, your decision.
My comment would start the same as so many others: "When I was a teenager..." This kind of experiment is perfectly suited for curious teenagers with limited funds, limited experience, excessive energy and curiosity. And...for many of us older people, there were limited available options in the 70s,80s,90s. 25-50 years ago, the world was less globalized and consumers were further isolated from producers. You couldn't find cheap components on ali express and have them shipped from wherever, you were reliant on whatever the import distributer made available, with each link of the import chain adding to the price. It is incredible these days, the quality gear we have access to at amazing prices.
I was a huge car audio guy back in the day, and we used to do the opposite - put home speakers in the car. We'd buy drivers from Dayton, Tangband, etc and run them active. You might have more luck with a component speaker set in a bookshelf cabinet.
I would suggest that judging the strength of a magnet using an Allen wrench on the back of the magnet structure tells you little about the flux at the voice coil gap.😊
I’ve used a pair of pioneer 6x9 car speakers in “Jericho” folded horn enclosures that I built for shop speakers. They sound surprisingly good. I built the cabinets for 8” full range Fostex drivers.
I think you should try component drivers with separate crossovers instead of a cheap coaxial with inline filter. You need a "long throw" woofer to get decent bass out of small drivers made for automotive applications. Also those small coaxial speakers are designed to have a shallow mounting depth for fitment into doors. They don't have the luxury of using big magnets with a long throw design.
I wired in a pair of Visonik David 5000 speakers on the rear shelf of my car and swapped the mono radio for a Blupunkt SM 108 radio. When I sold the car I put in the original radio and swapped the radio cassette in my next car for the Blaupunkt. Blupunkt radios have a DIN input output socket on the back and I wired in an adapter from Uher to use switch playback and record to a Uher CR240 portable cassette deck. It all worked nicely but the Uher lacked amount point and sat on the floor of the passenger compartment. I could record radio programmes, something car radio cassettes did not do. I did try to wire the Blaupunkt to a mains to cigar socket box but the box has a very noisy fan and I couldn't get the radio to pick up signal with either a telescopic aerial or the one I used with my FM hi-fi. There must be a way as car accessory shops have ICE systems on demonstration. In spite of the high price of Blupunkt equipment I would expect a cheap hi-fi receiver to out perform it My current car has a Meridian 350 Watt 17 speakers surround sound system. But far off the top levels it distorts. Not really a problem as the only way to listen that loud is with the door shut and from a cross the street. DABs is useless over winter as the rear screen heater cuts off the signal and the FM is far worse than any previous car (interference and loosing signal - because there is no decent aerial). Years ago an Italian company made a system where you could remove the module from the car and mount it in a stand to use at home wired up to stereo speakers.
The Pioneer TS 3-way, 4-way, and 5-ways are fucking amazing. They are so true to the sound in the midrange and don't color the sound as much as most regular speakers that they can fatigue the ear a little quicker. Hands down my favorite car speaker. I do have 4 of the 3way models on my Tv setup. Thay sound amazing. Just using a cheap headphone tube amp to drive them believe or not. Just put them in a the old school 6x9 car stereo boxes with that fuzzy cloth and ported them to bring out the low end more.
Awesome review!!! That was really fun and something I’ve wanted to do for a long while now! Thank you for confirming this would be more involved and technical than just a driver swap!!! Loved it! Thank you Randy!!!!
I used a pair of Pioneer 4x6" 3-Ways for a center channel for a looong time mounted just above the TV. Imaging was great for voices which I pay the most attention to. Edit: They were in a slightly large mdf poly filled box, no porting.
Car audio systems, when setup correctly. They are quite complicated. First that is an composite speaker, ideally, a component speaker is ideal. That is an mid driver and a separate tweeter, that is going to need mounting in a separate location in the door, a pillar, or near the location where the mid woofer is mounted, instead of being the woofer with the mid and the tweeter mounted in front of the center of the woofer. They typically come with a crossover. I forgot the name of the component but, it is a device that has inputted the output from the amplifiers, and they have outputs for the component speaker drivers. So the mid and the tweeter in each corner or from each channel input. Let’s say that the front left would have a full range signal fed into it, and the output would have two three or more outputs. That is where the tweeter can be fed the lowest to the highest frequencies that they are able to reproduce, just as the other drivers on that channel. That means that each driver will get the frequencies that they will shine with, nothing higher, nor lower, unless one could be driven slightly lower, or higher. To help mitigate having too much of a hole. That is if a additional driver could not or didn’t want to be fitted for the frequencies that wasn’t filled with the drivers there. All that along with the external amplification should be clean and precise, and the level of noise and other attributes not desired will tarnish the final image. The point is that most of the bass is not produced by the speakers, but the highest frequencies down to somewhere around the lower midbass frequencies are. Well speakers produced bass, you don’t make any sense. Yup, I know. Anyho, the bass comes from the subwoofer/s that generally resides in the area where the cargo is stored, but sometimes there may be installed in the console, between the seats, or under the one or more of the seats. They are practically always amplified. I know I know, I am crazy. So. Amplification refers to a separate amplifier, instead the being powered by the amplifier in the head unit, or internally amplified. My point is that factory speakers are designed to fill the roll of all frequencies, or full range speakers. When speakers are replaced with something besides the paper, ugly, looking unfinished speakers. Then there is a loss of the lower frequencies, unless the speakers are chosen with attributes that will be able to work with the stock head unit. The problem is, too many different ones out there, the GMLAN BlackTie has what, three different major versions, along with the difference between the different models of vehicles being installed. Was it going to be installed onto a Saturn, Chevrolet, Pontiac. What options was on it. The disk changer in dash, xm, Bluetooth. That is just one, if you only looked at it. They all looked the same. Screen across the top, buttons across the rest, except for a big knob near the bottom in the center. You could see the screens would be different, segmented, or dot matrix. Once again, that is many choices for what appears to be one radio. How many different models are for the radio that GM installed in the next one. So it is impractical to say this speaker is great for stock systems. You can match up one if you took the time to, but these shown generally are used with a subwoofer, and don’t produce much bass from my experience. If amplified bass can be produced sometimes, but not always. So, if you was to choose a amplifier with the intention of using these, and I am thinking about one of those Bluetooth small amplifiers, not one of those larger receiver/looking devices, and with a active sub/woofer. If I understand correctly, and informed correctly. If the amplifier outputs are fed into the high level inputs, then the composite speakers are connected to the outputs of the active sub/woofer/s. What would the results be? After that, if equalization is adjusted, so that things were flattened some, or if they were raised to where they would level out somewhat. If everything needed to be raised to level the range, and if there is no deep holes. You could turn down some, and still should have the details still present from the source media, and through the setup. Sorry for being long winded.
Really enjoyed this "Randy the Mad Scientist" episode. Tried a similar experiment with cheaper components. End result were a set of squeakers, not speakers. Left them behind when one of the guys in the group house complained I was taking the only stereo when I moved out. :D
Car door speakers are designed for use in open baffle type enclosures. Meaning they won't work well in a closed or ported box. Unless the box in question was very large approaching infinite baffle territory.
Back in the 90s, I had Boston Acoustics 5.2 Pro auto speakers in my 89 Honda CRX. I sold the car later and removed the speakers because they were pretty darn expensive for the time. Probably $250? Out of curiosity I put them in a .5ft3 sealed box with an Adcom GFA-555 driving them. They sounded pretty darn good. But they were separates with outboard crossovers and very good parts.
You can still get component sets with a midbass driver, and a tweeter, with a separate passive crossover for decently cheap. Put those in a bookshelf size sealed enclosure and it should sound great. I've seen people use car audio stuff inside with great results, and people that used home theater stuff in car audio with great results. It all depends on your knowledge of the science behind audio performance. If you have a good grasp on the science, and some engineering and building skills, anything is possible.
I have an old 2002 Kenwood KFC 7171C 7X10" oval speakers , 92db installed in a large cabinet. They are stil going strong and sound awesome than my wharfedale 8.2
Surprisingly some car speakers are actually built really well even some of the cheaper speakers. They have to withstand temperature extremes and vibrations and humidity. Some are built extremely well. I have some old fosgate 6.5 inch speakers from the mid 90's and I have had them in sealed enclosures before and they actually produce clear mids and plenty of low end.
I've done that with some 6 1/2" component car speakers. Found the approximate specs online to build a sealed enclosure for them. After using a resistor to tame the highs it sounded decent but still lacked bass response so I got some cheap 6 1/2" subwoofers in proper ported boxes with crossovers to set under them. That made a big difference in that they sounded quite good after that.
You needed pioneer car speakers. Their 6x9 are rated and actually truthful to go down to the 20 Hertz-es. Their 5 1/4 are rated at something ridiculous like low 30hz.
Keep in mind that these are from Rockford Fosgate's Prime series, which is the cheapest line of products made by Rockford, and anything that says Prime R1 is the Prime Series' base model stuff, and the R2 line is the Prime series next tier up. Having said that, I owned a set of their Prime R1 12's til my brother wanted to buy them. In my opinion the best part about them was their high sensitivity and low power handling, I pushed them with a newer Punch 300x1. I thought they sounded great for their price. I'm curious how a car audio component set would sound in a house box.
I had some Infinity 6 1/2 triaxials with Emit tweeters in my Mustang. I removed them and made some boxes for them. They actually sounded pretty good. I knew they wouldn't have very deep bass. However with some bass boost and a bit of eq they sounded much better. I had them in my garage for a few years and sold them to a friend who put the boxes with a sub into his Jeep.
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My parents had a "console" system from the late 1950's that I updated decades ago (only saved the cabinet) ... the speakers behind the non-removable grills were Philco (Ford) 6x9's with wizzer cones...
What was the name of the formula for enclosures - where can I find it?
would an external crossover have helped if they were wired up to the crossover directly ? like in a component set up not a coaxial ?! i read alot of reviews saying the coaxials are a bit disappointing, but component speakers tend to get more favorable reviews on sound quality. Probably going to get someone to make me a small stereo using marine grade car components, shopping around for now just sorting though stuff,. loved the video, have a great day !
TBrown I think he said,"Theile parameters ", was the name of that enclosure chart.
When I was a kid, I made a pair of shoe boxes using 6x9 car speakers and a cheap Lafayette amplifier. at the time I thought it sounded great! 😆
We have low expectations as teens!
Well, as a beginner mechanic back in the 80's, my boss took that 6x9 Jensen & cut the proper hole into an AC-Delco box, mounted the speaker with only sealant & it sounded fantastic compared to the cheap speaker in the small am FM radio! Filled the shop with nice warm sound!
I did the same thing 😂
Ofc you thought It sounded great because you put it together yourself😭 you was proud that it worked
I did something similar using a size 12 walmart shoe box and some old IBM speakers and a Dell amp. There was ABSOLUTELY nothing under 150Hz, but it was still pretty good for 5 watts. It basically sounded like some cheap early 80's bookshelf speakers. 😂
In a car, the door acts as a large baffle. If you want to put car audio drivers in a small enclosure, you need baffle step compensation in the crossover. That is why you are getting all mid and high frequencies with no bass.
Car audio speakers actually work pretty well when used as in-wall speakers, with a little EQ from an AV receiver.
Was gonna say this. Almost all car speakers have a qts over .50.
Would polyfil do the trick?
will it sound good in open air
the presenter shud hv used a better component speaker with seprte mid range and tweeter. it wud sound better
Thanks for this 'experiment'. Reminds me of my first system I rigged when I was a teen. Two 6x9 2-way Alpine car speakers and a Blaupunkt car radio cassette player powered by a 12V 5A power adapter. All mounted in a plywood enclosure I made (like giant boombox). Hardest part was to make oval cutouts with the tools I had. Sounded bad but not awful. It was fun. Listened to it for few months then the cassette player died. Used the speakers to 'upgrade' my father's Oldsmobile. 😀
You just confirmed my teenage experience. Back when I was 12 years old I salvaged a flood damaged pioneer receiver. Cleaned out the mud. Cleaning the controls and tuning cap was fun. Replaced internal fuses and it worked. So I replaced the front glass (broken when it fell during the flood) and used it in my bedroom until I left home. My first speakers were cheap car speakers from a swap meet then slightly better car speakers and finally a pair of mid-tier large Radio Shack bookshelf speakers on A and B was a pair of small Radio Shack realistic minimus 7's (at the time I couldn't decide which were better...).
Cool story!
Back in the mid 80s when I was 15, I rescued a 70s pioneer receiver from a dumpster. Just needed 2 internal fuses. I made my own RadioShack speakers that probably didn't sound very good but I was just so happy with myself.
The best sounding Hi-Fi setup I have heard uses three-way 6x9 car speakers with no baffles (as in just the speaker) along with a subwoofer. Place the speakers at ear height 2 feet from the wall and EQ the amp or source to linearize the frequency response. The sound stage and voicing from this no baffle set up when dialed in correctly is amazing. The reflected sounds from the back of the speaker cones arrives several milliseconds later at the listening position due to phase and distance which makes the sound lush and dimensional. Also, there is an Atmos like effect going on due to the rear of the speaker cone radiating sound in all directions, Walsh style. Again, I say that the best sounding Hi-Fi setup I have heard uses three-way 6x9 car speakers with no baffles along with a subwoofer. Probably the closest I have heard that compares are a pair of Devialet Phantoms. Most amps probably do not have enough EQ to pull this off as up to 30 dB of adjustment is needed to line up everything. Search for "Nvarcher Bluetooth 5.0 DSP Audio Amplifier" on ali exp. This 20$ DSP module has enough adjustment copiabilities. I told you all you need to know so if you don't act, then you will be doomed to an eternal sub optimal listening experience.
I was able to do it with four 6x9's and two cabinets. Angled baffle to eliminate reflected noise, pure sound only. Squeezed every Hz of bass out of the 6x9's using a transmission line box. These things would rival a Polk system. The speakers are in my videos.
I used pioneer components in custom enclosures for my entire surround sound system and it sounded great.
You should have just run the hookup wire through the port to the speaker. No X-over removal needed.
Back in the early 80s I had big home speakers in the back of a couple of hatchbacks. They sounded great.
My friends big brother hooked up two house speakers in his station wagon in the late 80s. It was hilarious but he had some bass.
In the mid-80’s I had a couple of mid 70’s era wooden heavy duty 12” 3-way home audio speakers that I was laying in the hatch of a 1980 Chevette that I could pull out of the hatch back and set on the ground so we could listen to music at the park while playing hackey sack, throwing frisbees, or while partying by the river, lol. They sounded great from what I remember.
Randy, you could make a LOT of content doing stuff like this. I've generally considered car audio drivers to be overpriced due to markup, but then again I've done some installs in vehicles where the final result blew me away for the price. I'm currently in the middle of the fence between using the easy, accepted way of doing car audio (Crutchfield / premade packs), and doing it all custom, buying raw parts from parts express (and sometimes 3d printing vehicle specific adapters and pods) and making something super unique, but of course that comes with a much bigger possibility of catastrophic failure.
What about putting home bookshelves into a car.That might sound great.
@@spandel100 I'm sure it would sound awesome. The issue would be fitment lol, unless you just mean the drivers.
@@Spaniard47 Place them lying on their sides behind the rear seats,on top of the backboard(if you have one).👍
I always wondered how the market is for 3rd party head units to replace factory ones these days. Back in the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, replacing the "radio" wasn't hard, but today everything seems so integrated with lots of complicated wire harnesses some of which might control other functions, I wonder if many people mess with them other than just maybe upgrading the speakers. Of course Crutchfield is still in business, so maybe I'm underestimating that market today.
@@rosswarren436 that's a great point, and a big reason I'm worried for the future of car audio. Before 2015 or so, most cars had standalone head units that could be removed and replaced with a couple hours and less than ~$50 worth of brackets and harnesses. Now, the electronics systems are so interconnected that there often isn't really a head unit to remove; the entire car is one huge conglomeration of systems. Pair that with the baffling trend of adding as many drivers as possible to the car (since more = better to the average consumer), and you have many vehicles that are basically non-upgradable. That is unless you go the route of doing it fully custom: buying unique raw parts, fabricating your own speaker locations, running all of your own cables, everything. It's an interesting conundrum.
so im kinda a cheap person and wanted some kind of home audio for my setup and ended up having 2 5.25 4 way car speakers and 2 4x6 car speakers along with an old Sony "theater" system subwoofer. i already know that its not gonna sound like an actual system that has been tuned properly but for just how little it cost me the sound is great and full. i cant wait to one day have a proper set up tho but for now I'm broke but jammin.
''Who wants to have some FUN today?''
*Wields chainsaw covered in guts*
When I was in High School (early 1980's) a friend gave me a pair of no-name home speakers with an 8" full-range driver and a front facing port (probably came from an all-in one stereo).The port had a silver surround making it look like a tweeter under the grill. I enlarged the port in each speaker enclosure and mounted a 5 1/4" coaxial car speaker. I then disconnected the speaker leads to the 8" full range driver, thereby converting it to the roll of passive radiator. The end result was respectable with the coaxial speaker providing decent mids and highs while the psuedo passive radiator provided much better (lower and tighter) bass than it offered as a speaker in the original full-range, vented configuration. A lot of my friends were impressed.
Fun stuff...reminds me of when I was in high school. I mix matched speakers and enclosures all the time. I had a buddy that took out the back seats in his old car and set up 2 12inch home stereo speaker enclosures lol. We were jobless and just wanted stereo. Late 80's were a fun time.
Dayton actually makes a really nice assortment of speakers. Prices for a lot of budgets and applications. I've always been really pleased with them.
Bought a set of their 6-1/2" 2 way outdoor speakers for a friend. They sound great
Did you read my mind? I was just asking myself this question yesterday... A coaxial car speaker will basically turn any speaker into a KEF, right?😄
Depends on how you tune it.
Have you seen the build quality of a KEF driver?
@@stephennarayan Means nothing. Car stereo drivers are better quality.
@@stephennarayan that's the joke
Me cheap-audioman thought so too🤣🤣👍👍, they sound like crap, stay away
Takes me back. My first home 'stereo' was the already classic Craig snorkel car 8-track player and two Jensen Traxial car speakers on a bookshelf hooked up to a power converter. I was 14, it was 1975
No need to say how old you were or what year it was. ha ha Mine was Pioneer triaxles connected to a Kenwood KR2600 receiver. In 1977
@@mikeables mine was an inauspicious start to this goofy hobby
Back in the early '80s I actually took home audio speaker components and installed them in my '77 Camaro Z28 door panels. Actually had to use a cutting torch to make holes in the door since there were no factory speakers there 😂... Don't remember exactly what I had to power them, but I think it was one of those awful Jet Sound under dash EQ/power amps 😂. Sounded pretty good for 1982 listening to Iron Maiden lol.
This is an a abso-fracking-lutely superb comment.
Maiden makes everything better.
Hooked up an Allegro home speaker in my Dodge Colt back in 1989. Took up pretty much the majority of the back seat. Sounded great to my 21 year old ears. . I also listened to a lot of hard rock and metal at the time and that system rocked. Lol
Try this with a focal k2 power set of splits they so far are the best sounding car speakers I have uses
Whaaaaat? No Kraco power booster? All the rage in our ghetto DIY car stereo setups in the '80s.
LOVE THIS... takes me back to college days. To be honest... GOOD car speakers are more expensive than many home speakers add cost of cabinet, they no longer make financial sense. But yes... in my young days i had more time than money built a decent pair using old 6x9s and left over particle board.
When I was into car audio I ran components in enclosures. Custom kick panels up front. Makes a world of difference.
I Love messing with speakers and enclosures, swapping things around just to see what works. Cool vid. BTW I got my Scss-5's in today open box from Amazon paid $68, they were flawless not a scratch on them. Paired them with Ayima a08.
I had a set of Jensen Triax 6x9'd left over from a job so I built a set of scaled down Klipsch Cornwall cabinets out of some scrap 3/4" marine plywood I had on hand. Banana jacks in the rear and sprayed flat black I plugged them into a Sonic Impact 10w amp with a BT adaptor and OMG, they sounded like a set of Altec Lancing studio monitors. I then hooked them up to my old Sherwood 9910 receiver and they really came to life. What a treat, bright, encompassing and a full bodied sound they were a joy to listen to. I still use them for an outdoor projection screen and they sound great and are tough as nails. Add a port to you cabinets, it will make all the difference.
Back in the late 80's I had a pair of fairy cheep Audiovox 6X9 tri axle speakers. I put them in a old 2-way speaker enclosure. I did roughly the same as you, I didn't use the crossover. But what I did was get new terminals for the back. also cut out the original speaker baffle. Put a new piece of wood in for the baffle and I also had to counter sink the opening to get a flush mount for the speakers. The wood was pressboard like the rest of the enclosure. It cost me like $20 or $25 for the wood and terminals. I was able to use the 6X9 grills also. For what it's worth, they sounded pretty damn good and didn't cost me much to do the mod.
I get better bass from my car speakers when I use Sith Audio Bass Enhancer Wipes. They clean, shine and protect all my speakers! Get some today! Great video CAM :-)
Those factory replacements are bottom end speakers at around $30 each and distort easily. Of course the sound is shallow and weak, no matter the application. However, the last Fosgates I purchased were about $350 and included actual crossovers. They sounded VASTLY different. Very nice. But these better built car speakers are still in need of a subwoofer.
No surprise with the outcome here.
I once did the same thing with Pioneers best four-ways in some sealed enclosures. Again, with a sub, I thought they sounded really good and hung 4 of these up in the corners of my living room.
Call me crazy and lazy... I really did enjoy them! 👋
If you left the Dayton speaker intact and allowed the original woofer to be a passive radiator then made a separate opening for the car speaker you'd have success. Did this years ago with an old pair of home speakers. Made a crude 6x9 opening on top of the home speakers for some Jensen car speakers. Worked excellent !! Whiskey may have had something to do with my assessment of excellent tho.
This is a trick that almost all coaxial towers use. Larger box, passive radiator, great results.
I once had an old Sony Trinitron TV that finally died and rather than try to carry this monster to the dumpster I decided to dismantle and take it out in pieces. It had two 2.75" full range drivers and the magnets were REALLY heavy so I put them in an old pair of cheap Kenwood enclosures that had blown speakers and they sounded pretty good!
i removed the speakers from a chinese 32 inch tv since they sound terrible anyway, they were extremely small and even advertised as "harman kardon" in some firmware
but i would also say that the tv had a wrong speaker size setting in the service menu that made it sound worse than what it already is
My main speakers, AR Phantom 8.3 (probably the last decent gear that AR made, before they went all "Recoton" - literally and figuratively), use "Illusion" bass drivers, typically used for car audio. They're very shallow, with the magnet assembly in front of the cone. They sound good to me!
I had small bookshelf speakers that had the woofer (4-inch) and tweeters die on me. Like you, I substituted new 2-way German brand co-axial car speakers that I had on hand in place of the woofer. They don’t sound great but I use them as workshop speakers and they do a decent job.
I have a pair of MB QUART's from the late 90's...my 55 watt NAD 3155 give them a run and sound good...need my 8 inch subwoofer in the equation next...
Glad to see this. While not a car speaker I have thought about using the Emotiva Vaulta In-Ceiling to make a bookshelf speaker. Let's see that video.
The original Dayton speaker has a much heavier cone which increases bass response at the expense of efficiency. The large magnet helps bring it back some, but will be no where near the efficiency of a car speaker. Car speakers are designed on totally different principles. That's why you can't just throw one in an enclosure. Generally car speakers have a lighter cone, a higher Q(weaker magnet), and a stiffer suspension to mimic being mounted in an enclosure. Considering these parameters, a larger, ported enclosure would be optimal.
The last car speakers I fought with were Polk Audio 6x9 3 ways. Can't remember the model... 125W peak I think. I had a kenwood head unit and found out pretty quickly I needed an amp to drive them... Keep in mind, I was driving a 2006 mercury grand marquis at the time... but I like loud clean sounding metal. In the store displays, the PA's had a really nice sound for what I played. I installed the speakers with stock wiring and the HU only and it sounded ok, but would overheat and shut down after not that long at a higher volume... got a kenwood 4x80W amp, had it installed along with trunk to speaker wiring (14awg I think, 4AWG for power)... overheated after about 30 minutes into my first commute to work (commute was an hour). Got a massive audio 4x100W amp... made it 45 minutes. Bought an old school RF 800a4 amp (4x100w RMS) off ebay, luckily it actually worked and had the end caps still. Wow... those 6x9's would POUND! Loud enough to hurt my ears. Very crisp sound! Took forever to get the EQ set right, but it was worth it. I moved that system from one grand marquis to another when I got another (I had 3 of them in a row) until they stopped making them. Sold the car, but all I kept was the amp. Didn't feel like ripping open the doors again and messing with the speakers... they served their purpose for me for 8 years of abuse.
Anyway, probably a better caliber of car speaker would work in the house and may have to get creative with the EQ to get them to sound right.
I typed all that just to say, it might take more effort than it's worth. lol!
It was a great idea. Saved many people from wasting their time trying this. Thank you Randy!
Exact opposite of car speakers in existing cabinets here. In the mid 1970s I made an MDF "plank" with 2 circular cutouts for 8" home speakers that fit exactly over the small cargo space behind the back seat of my 1968 VW Beetle. Had an 8-track with FM (8-track was broken, I hated 8-track) that had a fairly powerful amp in it. Very loud with lots of bass in that small car. The 8" drivers had a treated cloth surround, large magnets and "whizzer" cones to try to make them "Full Range Speakers". No Science involved, just what I could cobble together. Was fun.
I have done something similar to this, I used pyramid 8 inch woofers with 50 ounce magnets to replace the woofers in Bose 301s.I thought I made a big mistake as they sounded terrible, but the more I play them the better they get. Now they sound much better than the original Bose.
That’s because Dollar General store speakers are an Upgrade to Bose.
I did the same with GW poly woofers....they too, at first sounded weak. After a decent break-in, they sound powerful and clean! BTW how about the pathetic little square magnets on the Bose woofers?...maybe 8 oz. at best!
Back when I built my Home Speaker Cabinets in High School back in '92 I first used realistic speakers cause that's what I could afford at the time. But once I had the money a couple years later I installed Rockford Fosgate car speakers and damn did it sound good. I used Rockford 12" subs (in both cabinets) and then a 4" component set for the mids and tweets. At the time my Receiver had a 4 - 8 ohm switch so it wasn't an issue with the 4 ohm speakers.
i made with my father a homemade bluetooth speaker with two 6x5 speakers from B.buster 4 way speakers (two super twitters, one twetter/mid, an the woofer), amplified with a TPA 3116 D2 class D amplifier, with bluetooth on board. Actually sounds amazing, i cant believe that the sound it's very clear and detailed. the box it's from wood handmade too, with air vents for the speakers.
Interesting. I've been curious about a build like this with Emotiva's ceiling speakers. I don't know why I never thought of car speakers. Thanks for the build!
I had some 6.5 inch 2 way Kenwoods (XR-1701) that sound amazing in my car. Most people would probably shy away at $150 for a pair to put in a box (twice what his costs), but the results would probably be fantastic. Mind you, the speakers in a car typically use the inside of the dash or door compartments as a "box", so you need to err on the side of larger is better. Most car doors are on the order of several cubic feet inside. Those numbers you plug into a program for speaker designs are the minimum recommended box size as well. This is why a 5 or 6 inch speaker in a tower or large box generally sounds a little better.
All of that said, don't believe the specs. They all fall off a cliff at about 100hz and a sub is a massive help. He noticed this as well - there was no bass. They are designed such that the rear speakers or sub handles all of the low frequencies.
Car speakers are made for cars for a reason! They're made to work with the car coupé where a lot of the midrange and treble will disappear and the bass will get some help, they also need to be able to take a huge temperature range and moisture, therefore it's not so surprising that a car speaker in that price range will not perform as the home competitor. Move up a bit in price and that will change, still, different goal, different built.
I have 4 car subs and a pair of bookshelf speakers (bose 301 II) with new crossovers, car midrange and tweeters that I'm using as my rear speakers. My front speakers are old bose 501 IV cabinets with car subs, car midrange and goldwood tweetes plus new crossovers. Guarantee if you sat in my living room and watched a movie or listened to music you would not even know I have car gear. Trust me, it sounds excellent
This is hilarious. I love it. This is something that I would tinker around with when I was in high school. In fact, I did this exact same thing as well as in reverse, putting some home speaker things in my car. This brings back memories.
I bought two cyber acoustics powered subwoofer for computers from a thrift shop, removed the subwoofer and used the enclosure for cerwin vega 3-way 6.5" coaxial removed some of the wood to enlarge the opening to get the speaker to fit, I left the power amp inside, sounds a lot better than my previous bookshelf speakers
One of those things I'd always wondered about, thanks for taking one for the team!
This is a cool idea. I'm a klipsch man myself. Have a 7.2 surround sound system from them and it is nuts! Clean all the to full volume and enough to rattle the gutters on the house lol
I made an outdoor movie theater from spare stuff I had around the house. I used car speakers and a car amplifier for the sound and it's the best part of the whole set up. I also used some old car speakers in my garage for a bluetooth setup and they sound pretty good. . . but I am comparing that to a small stand alone bluetooth speaker.
I think you could also have purchased a better car speaker for the enclosure. Give it another try.
I actually built speakers for my work bench using Ford OEM Door Speakers, I built the cabinet with 3/4” plywood and estimated its size by the volume of the door cavity, I sealed the box with RTV, I was always impressed with sound of these speakers for what they were, they had a good bass response.
You need those resonant frequencies, the cabinet can be as important, if not more important than the speakers by themselves.
My parents still have a pair of 6" oval 3-way car speakers mounted high in the wall in their bedroom. They sound great!
I had a pair of car speakers in a home made box in college. Didn't have a lot of money then. They worked and that's about all I could say about them. Even used a car amp for them and had a converter all hooked up to a disk man.
For best bass response, the Rockford Fosgate R165X3 needs a closed (not ported) enclosure of about 52 gallons and will not go below around 77 Hz.
Car speakers are designed for an infinite baffle (e.g. car door) and generally have a high Qts as such. I did a similar experiment with some JL coaxials a few years ago and found that in a box they sounded like poo, but then I made an open box with a backing (to mimic a car door) and they sounded much better. Audiophile, no, but at least they had a much better (any) bass response.
Okay dude, here's what you do - 5-1/2 car audio speakers are mids and highs only, that's a known quantity. Re-design a bass reflex box that will house two 8-inch woofers, and apply two of your 5-1/2 speakers and two silk dome tweeters. Build another box so you have a L and R channel. Buy and configure your speaker ohms so they come out 8ohms or 4ohms, depending on your amp. You should now have a speaker box that will rival Polk and JBL floor standing towers.
I have a feeling that in addition to those Rockfords being cheap, they are counting on enhanced bass from the resonance of the door panel and cavity. And yes, the road noise. On the other hand, I am old school. The "music" coming from your car should be properly generated by the engine and the exhaust note. Damn, I miss the whine of the rotary in my old RX-7.
I went the opposite route. I put Peerless speaker drivers into my car driven by an Alpine amp. Not only is it cheaper than a pair of 3 way split car system, but also sounds really good.
@Cheapaudioman....... How am I suppose get it?
When I was younger and poorer, i made rear surrounds using some Radio shack ancient 4" 2 way speakers - built a pair of small sealed enclosures for it and it served me well for quite some time - good clarity on mids is great for surrounds. but of course for music they were lacking bass of course and rather shrill/shouty on the high end with the cheap paper tweeter.
but there are exceptions. Paul Carmody made a 6.5" bookshelf using a car audio woofer and he was blown away by the performance, and highly recommended it - but of course you still have to design a crossover in that case.
I took a pair of vintage 1970s Capehart speakers from a cheap stereo system gutted the original wiring and i took out the original 5 inch speakers and replaced them with some cheap scosche 5.25 4 way speakers from walmart along with some cheap car tweeters. Wired them into the speakers and they sound excellent. I use them for my mid and high speakers along with a pair of Fisher STV-891N 15 inch speakers from 1986 which i use as my subs. I run them off of a Kenwood KR-V7060 AV receiver which has dolby pro logic.
In a more so oriented auto environment a two or three way active crossover would be applied that would make the need for Bass from the RF unnecessary anyway. Cabin gain from the component subwoofer in such a system would give you all the bass you would want. EQ would help immensely as well.
I've heard some auto systems that rival most home based setups.
Man I had a buddy when I was in high school who built his home set up all out of car stereo equipment. He would get noise complaints from people down the block, and had a hard time even playing music because his CD player would skip so bad due to all the bass. He had two towers with all the component speakers in it. I would love to have known how the hell he did that, as thumping and rumbling a small car is definitely a different task then doing it to a living room. I’m sure my ears weren’t as well adjusted as they are now, but a video about using a decommissioned amazing car stereo in your home would be fun. Especially the bass aspect.
If you know enough about woodworking, make a adapter to fit the hole in the cabinet, then make a hole the size of the speaker being installed, if you use a 3/8 inch thick board it will work much better and add a small amount of volume, (size not loudness), which will increase bass response at the lower end. If the cab does not have damping material add some to each side to reduce a boomy sound and create a flatter response!
The response can be adjusted with a parametric EQ, not a graphic EQ. Or use a active speaker management system.
Nice video and great change of pace with a fun twist. Great to see results after the recent survey. Keep being you and having fun with the channel and having us along for the ride.
Thanks so much!
The high sensitivity would mean if you want deep bass, it needs to go in a large enclosure. In a small enclosure, you'll tend to either have almost no bass, or boomy bass around 100hz. So your results are not surprising. This is a result of Hoffman's Iron law of speaker bass performance.
A 3-way car driver is hopeless for home hifi. But car woofers have a chance. The good thing about these monstrosities is they'll allow a ridiculous amount of cone excursion before distortion. If you comb through the thiele-small parameters, and build an appropriately sized enclosure (that would likely be very large), I'm convinced you could get some really good results for the low end.
That's crazy! I literally just started thinking about this & it popped up
I hooked up two Infinty Kappa 6x9s and a Kenwood 12 to a home stereo back in the early 90s. Lol It worked
On the other side, I put hifi speakers into my trunk (its a combi), paired them with a pioneer headunit having dynamic bass on, and it is better than having an actual woofer back there lol
I have a feeling you knew the results making this video and did it as a service saving others time to do such a thing. I did it years ago and got basically the result you did.
I did this about 20 years ago with a homemade cabinet . The bass was lacking but the speaker was a very small and narrow oval from Alpine.
I snipped the wire that had a cap that went to the tweeters on a set of 6.5 kicker coaxs for this purpose and they rocked for woofers and lows mids.
Good idea. I’ve thought of this, but with a JL W6 subwoofer since good home audio subwoofers are expensive.
This was fun, thanks for spending the time and effort!
I live in Brazil, home audio gear is not a great market over here, in terms of variety. The officialy aviable options tends to be pretty expensive. Car audio, in the other hand, is a huge market and by far the most affordable option for who wants a decent music experience. Bookshelf speakers and audio systems made that way are pretty popular among the general public.
It's the same way here in Ecuador.
In fact, and unfortunatelly, there is almost zero interest in bookshelf cabinets at all, even less in the diy, made with car speakers here. Nobody really does it. Most of the brazilians doesn't even know what a bookshelf speaker cabinet is. What we have is lousy cabinets made with car speakers, yes, but for "entertaining" purposes only (usually barbecues, in wich they play extremely crappy music), not for hi-fi/hi-res or home theater applications. But I see your point. I myself made some cabinets with car audio speakers and you can get great results with it.
@@guilhermev3545 I thought Edifier, Microlab and other similar brands got to Brazil. I mean if there's not interest (here in Argentina there's barely..or rather was an interest) at least there is the option for the few ones who has that interest.
I’ve often wondered how the Hertz Mille Legend MLK 1650.3’s that are in my Truck would compare to any of my home audio speakers. The Hertz Mille Legends are components and sound amazing in my truck. Much higher quality (and cost) than the Rockford’s.
Thanks for the video, it was a fun experiment.
I remember when Best Buy sold 5.25" 2 way KLH bookshelf speakers for $17.99 each. Around that same time a pair of Sony 2 way speakers with 5.25 woofer similar to the SSCS5 cost $24.95 each or $50 a pair. This was back in 2001.
Don't wear your watch while you are around speaker magnets mate, it will bugger it up. Love the channel, John from England, like you a breitling man.
Do magnetic fields really damage mechanical timepieces?
@@peterlarkin762
Yes magnets will definitely damage your watch, particularly mechanical pieces as you say.
Some watches are shielded usually by a soft iron ring inside the case, but not many.
If you do magnetise your watch it will start loosing or gaining large amounts of time or even stop.
It can be repaired but it means a full strip down and service, they pass the part's through a coil to un magnatise them. Problem is its going to cost hundreds, my cronomat is £700 od for a full service, so it's better to be safe.
Quartz watches are much less at risk, some will tell you they're OK but there are plenty of steel parts in a quartz movement and the likely outcome is a slight loss of accuracy.
Hope this helps you out.
All the best, John
Watches can be magnetized fairly easily, but they can also be demagnetized fairly easily with a ten dollar tool from Amazon. I’ve never heard of them needing to be stripped down over magnetism.
It's most likely Quarts, not affected by the magnet.
@@Sethw1984 Yes you can just pass the complete watch through a coil, you can easily make the coil yourself but it won't do such a good job as stripping it down, and it is unlikely to restore it to full accuracy.
If you are dealing with a cheap watch fair enough give it a go but a decent time piece, I suppose it depends on how much you care about it and how easily you can replace it.
My Breitlings always go back to Breitling for any work, shure it's expensive but they come back like new. My cronomat runs to a couple of seconds a week and my sea wolf to around five seconds a week.
They took a life time of saving to get, I'm just a ordinary working class guy, I wouldn't dare put a ten quid amazon tool in the same room as them.
Any of my other stuff, Tag, Oris, Roamer etc goes to Goldsmiths excellent workshops.
That's just me, at the end of the day your watches, your money, your decision.
My comment would start the same as so many others: "When I was a teenager..."
This kind of experiment is perfectly suited for curious teenagers with limited funds, limited experience, excessive energy and curiosity.
And...for many of us older people, there were limited available options in the 70s,80s,90s. 25-50 years ago, the world was less globalized and consumers were further isolated from producers. You couldn't find cheap components on ali express and have them shipped from wherever, you were reliant on whatever the import distributer made available, with each link of the import chain adding to the price.
It is incredible these days, the quality gear we have access to at amazing prices.
I used a car subwoofer in a home sub box for years and it sounded great.
They make high end car speakers.
We did the other way in the 80’s. My brother put bookshelf speakers in the car in the back window. It rocked
I was a huge car audio guy back in the day, and we used to do the opposite - put home speakers in the car. We'd buy drivers from Dayton, Tangband, etc and run them active. You might have more luck with a component speaker set in a bookshelf cabinet.
I would suggest that judging the strength of a magnet using an Allen wrench on the back of the magnet structure tells you little about the flux at the voice coil gap.😊
I’ve used a pair of pioneer 6x9 car speakers in “Jericho” folded horn enclosures that I built for shop speakers. They sound surprisingly good. I built the cabinets for 8” full range Fostex drivers.
I think you should try component drivers with separate crossovers instead of a cheap coaxial with inline filter. You need a "long throw" woofer to get decent bass out of small drivers made for automotive applications. Also those small coaxial speakers are designed to have a shallow mounting depth for fitment into doors. They don't have the luxury of using big magnets with a long throw design.
I wired in a pair of Visonik David 5000 speakers on the rear shelf of my car and swapped the mono radio for a Blupunkt SM 108 radio. When I sold the car I put in the original radio and swapped the radio cassette in my next car for the Blaupunkt. Blupunkt radios have a DIN input output socket on the back and I wired in an adapter from Uher to use switch playback and record to a Uher CR240 portable cassette deck. It all worked nicely but the Uher lacked amount point and sat on the floor of the passenger compartment. I could record radio programmes, something car radio cassettes did not do.
I did try to wire the Blaupunkt to a mains to cigar socket box but the box has a very noisy fan and I couldn't get the radio to pick up signal with either a telescopic aerial or the one I used with my FM hi-fi. There must be a way as car accessory shops have ICE systems on demonstration. In spite of the high price of Blupunkt equipment I would expect a cheap hi-fi receiver to out perform it
My current car has a Meridian 350 Watt 17 speakers surround sound system. But far off the top levels it distorts. Not really a problem as the only way to listen that loud is with the door shut and from a cross the street. DABs is useless over winter as the rear screen heater cuts off the signal and the FM is far worse than any previous car (interference and loosing signal - because there is no decent aerial).
Years ago an Italian company made a system where you could remove the module from the car and mount it in a stand to use at home wired up to stereo speakers.
I've used my old Alpine type R subs as garage speakers. They certainly get the job done. Peerless makes some decent drivers for DIY projects.
The Pioneer TS 3-way, 4-way, and 5-ways are fucking amazing. They are so true to the sound in the midrange and don't color the sound as much as most regular speakers that they can fatigue the ear a little quicker. Hands down my favorite car speaker. I do have 4 of the 3way models on my Tv setup. Thay sound amazing. Just using a cheap headphone tube amp to drive them believe or not. Just put them in a the old school 6x9 car stereo boxes with that fuzzy cloth and ported them to bring out the low end more.
im doin something similar. i bought a lil 5 1/4in subwoofer and will be putting two into my bookshelf lmao
Awesome review!!! That was really fun and something I’ve wanted to do for a long while now! Thank you for confirming this would be more involved and technical than just a driver swap!!! Loved it! Thank you Randy!!!!
I used a pair of Pioneer 4x6" 3-Ways for a center channel for a looong time mounted just above the TV. Imaging was great for voices which I pay the most attention to.
Edit: They were in a slightly large mdf poly filled box, no porting.
Hey
I did too
Above the TV though? Seems like it would be off axis somehow
@@zardoz2627 if your tv is at the proper height it's not much (if at all) different than having it below.
Car audio systems, when setup correctly. They are quite complicated. First that is an composite speaker, ideally, a component speaker is ideal. That is an mid driver and a separate tweeter, that is going to need mounting in a separate location in the door, a pillar, or near the location where the mid woofer is mounted, instead of being the woofer with the mid and the tweeter mounted in front of the center of the woofer. They typically come with a crossover. I forgot the name of the component but, it is a device that has inputted the output from the amplifiers, and they have outputs for the component speaker drivers. So the mid and the tweeter in each corner or from each channel input. Let’s say that the front left would have a full range signal fed into it, and the output would have two three or more outputs. That is where the tweeter can be fed the lowest to the highest frequencies that they are able to reproduce, just as the other drivers on that channel. That means that each driver will get the frequencies that they will shine with, nothing higher, nor lower, unless one could be driven slightly lower, or higher. To help mitigate having too much of a hole. That is if a additional driver could not or didn’t want to be fitted for the frequencies that wasn’t filled with the drivers there. All that along with the external amplification should be clean and precise, and the level of noise and other attributes not desired will tarnish the final image. The point is that most of the bass is not produced by the speakers, but the highest frequencies down to somewhere around the lower midbass frequencies are. Well speakers produced bass, you don’t make any sense. Yup, I know. Anyho, the bass comes from the subwoofer/s that generally resides in the area where the cargo is stored, but sometimes there may be installed in the console, between the seats, or under the one or more of the seats. They are practically always amplified. I know I know, I am crazy. So. Amplification refers to a separate amplifier, instead the being powered by the amplifier in the head unit, or internally amplified.
My point is that factory speakers are designed to fill the roll of all frequencies, or full range speakers. When speakers are replaced with something besides the paper, ugly, looking unfinished speakers. Then there is a loss of the lower frequencies, unless the speakers are chosen with attributes that will be able to work with the stock head unit. The problem is, too many different ones out there, the GMLAN BlackTie has what, three different major versions, along with the difference between the different models of vehicles being installed. Was it going to be installed onto a Saturn, Chevrolet, Pontiac. What options was on it. The disk changer in dash, xm, Bluetooth. That is just one, if you only looked at it. They all looked the same. Screen across the top, buttons across the rest, except for a big knob near the bottom in the center. You could see the screens would be different, segmented, or dot matrix. Once again, that is many choices for what appears to be one radio. How many different models are for the radio that GM installed in the next one. So it is impractical to say this speaker is great for stock systems. You can match up one if you took the time to, but these shown generally are used with a subwoofer, and don’t produce much bass from my experience. If amplified bass can be produced sometimes, but not always.
So, if you was to choose a amplifier with the intention of using these, and I am thinking about one of those Bluetooth small amplifiers, not one of those larger receiver/looking devices, and with a active sub/woofer. If I understand correctly, and informed correctly. If the amplifier outputs are fed into the high level inputs, then the composite speakers are connected to the outputs of the active sub/woofer/s. What would the results be? After that, if equalization is adjusted, so that things were flattened some, or if they were raised to where they would level out somewhat. If everything needed to be raised to level the range, and if there is no deep holes. You could turn down some, and still should have the details still present from the source media, and through the setup.
Sorry for being long winded.
Really enjoyed this "Randy the Mad Scientist" episode.
Tried a similar experiment with cheaper components. End result were a set of squeakers, not speakers. Left them behind when one of the guys in the group house complained I was taking the only stereo when I moved out. :D
Car door speakers are designed for use in open baffle type enclosures. Meaning they won't work well in a closed or ported box. Unless the box in question was very large approaching infinite baffle territory.
Back in the 90s, I had Boston Acoustics 5.2 Pro auto speakers in my 89 Honda CRX. I sold the car later and removed the speakers because they were pretty darn expensive for the time. Probably $250? Out of curiosity I put them in a .5ft3 sealed box with an Adcom GFA-555 driving them. They sounded pretty darn good. But they were separates with outboard crossovers and very good parts.
You can still get component sets with a midbass driver, and a tweeter, with a separate passive crossover for decently cheap. Put those in a bookshelf size sealed enclosure and it should sound great. I've seen people use car audio stuff inside with great results, and people that used home theater stuff in car audio with great results. It all depends on your knowledge of the science behind audio performance. If you have a good grasp on the science, and some engineering and building skills, anything is possible.
I have an old 2002 Kenwood KFC 7171C 7X10" oval speakers , 92db installed in a large cabinet. They are stil going strong and sound awesome than my wharfedale 8.2
Surprisingly some car speakers are actually built really well even some of the cheaper speakers. They have to withstand temperature extremes and vibrations and humidity. Some are built extremely well. I have some old fosgate 6.5 inch speakers from the mid 90's and I have had them in sealed enclosures before and they actually produce clear mids and plenty of low end.
I’d make home audio with Focal or Morel component speakers and use an active DSP and would be willing to bet they sound really really good.
I've done that with some 6 1/2" component car speakers. Found the approximate specs online to build a sealed enclosure for them. After using a resistor to tame the highs it sounded decent but still lacked bass response so I got some cheap 6 1/2" subwoofers in proper ported boxes with crossovers to set under them. That made a big difference in that they sounded quite good after that.
You needed pioneer car speakers. Their 6x9 are rated and actually truthful to go down to the 20 Hertz-es. Their 5 1/4 are rated at something ridiculous like low 30hz.
I've used hifi speakers in cars , in the wooden enclosure as well .
Seemed fine the other way round
Keep in mind that these are from Rockford Fosgate's Prime series, which is the cheapest line of products made by Rockford, and anything that says Prime R1 is the Prime Series' base model stuff, and the R2 line is the Prime series next tier up. Having said that, I owned a set of their Prime R1 12's til my brother wanted to buy them. In my opinion the best part about them was their high sensitivity and low power handling, I pushed them with a newer Punch 300x1. I thought they sounded great for their price. I'm curious how a car audio component set would sound in a house box.
I've always used car speakers for my home entertainment center.
A few 12' subs and so on.
Believe me, I had it banging in there
I had some Infinity 6 1/2 triaxials with Emit tweeters in my Mustang. I removed them and made some boxes for them. They actually sounded pretty good. I knew they wouldn't have very deep bass. However with some bass boost and a bit of eq they sounded much better. I had them in my garage for a few years and sold them to a friend who put the boxes with a sub into his Jeep.
I plan on building a pair of TL boxes with some Focal speakers from Crutchfield.