I've seen other videos where there are two V-shaped clips (7:50) for the top and bottom of the pads just underneath that outer long vertical clip. There is a Lexus TSB L-SB-0036-15 that expressly recommends fitting two V clips to fix any brake vibration.
Hello, thank you for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it. I reviewed the TSB and the TSB you mention applies to 2 wheel drive 460L models. Therefore, this TSB should not apply to this video since this is a 4wd 460L model. But this has me thinking, I should look up TSBs prior to all brake job videos I do in the future, that way, I can present the most relevant information. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I really appreciate it. I will go ahead and pin this comment to the top for all other viewers. Thanks!
Probably the best DIY video for the 4th generation LS Lexus. Did you happen to make a video showing how to do the rear brakes and rotors?? I have to do those as well! Great video. Thank you!
Hi Melissa, thank you so much for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it. I do NOT have a video of the rear brakes, but when the time comes to replace them on this car, I will be sure to film it. Take care and I wish you the best on your car projects!
Excellent video. With your help I was able to do this myself. One suggestion if the rotor is seized I use a couple of M8 x 1.25 bolts to back it off the hub. Works like a charm.
I cannot express how happy I am to get comments like this. I make videos for this exact reason and I am so happy and thankful that I can help so many people. I am genuinely happy to hear that you were able to use this video to replace your brakes. In regards to using the bolts, I personally have not had luck with using bolts with these rust belt cars that I work on. But I appreciate the advice. Take care and have a great holiday season!
Great job. I am about to do this on my 2011 LS460 and was going to do a tutorial as well. I think you covered it well. There are two things that I would suggest for your viewers. One being to use soapy water and a gentle toothbrush on the piston rubber dust covers. If you just push them back in, you are pushing in the dirt and grim around the edges as well which can lead to tearing the boot cover or even stuck pistons. Don't use hard brake clean chemical on that rubber. Also, I would suggest grease on the slide pins as well. I hope that helps someone @GreggyGTV
I actually have stopped using brake clean and just use water with a soft bristle brush, as you suggested. In the 18yrs of doing brakes, I have never had an issue where a boot became torn because I did not clean it before pressing in the piston, but that is a great practice to have. I will always lube slide pins on a floating caliper, but the reason why I never lube slide pins on a fixed caliper because the grease will just collect to a ball and then makes its way somewhere in the rotor or pad area. That is only logical guess, I have no experience to back up my theory. But I haven't had issues when I DONT lube pins on a fixed caliper. Thanks your watching and commenting, I wish you the best of luck on the job and I am really happy to hear that you found the video helpful. Cheers!
@@joesdiy4260 have you done the rear pads on the LS yet? I'm seeing conflicting information that maybe you may have to hook up a battery to the terminals of the caliper to get the e brake motor to move so you can push in the piston. Any experience with this?
@GreggyGTV I have done rear pads and rotors on a different LS460, same year (not the exact one in this video) but all you have to do is press the parking brake release on the interior of the vehicle. From what I recall, the parking brake was not integrated in the caliper. It had parking brake shoes in the hat or drum portion of the rotor. I am not familiar with the year-to-year changes on these cars, so some could have come with the parking brake modules integrated to the caliper and others not. Best way to find out is to poke your head back there and take a peek. Good luck!
@@joesdiy4260 Thanks man. I never use my electronic parking brake, it's always disengaged, so I'm thinking it won't be an issue. one last question, did you have any issues with any malfunctions or codes when pushing the rear pistons back in? Some say the brake actuator doesn't like that.
@GreggyGTV I believe the parking brake will automatically engage every time you put the car in park. And no, I had no lights, messages or codes on the dash when I pressed in the caliper.
@jericoproducts6261 hey, thanks for watching and commenting, i applied anti seeze. Being in the rust belt (north east US) our rotors like to get rusted onto the wheel bearing hub face, that is the "mounting plate" you referenced. So the next time I perform a brake job, the rotor will just come off without force.
So you don’t have to break the bleeding bolts loose on the calibers when pushing old pads in, to keep from pushing brake fluid back through the system? I have a 2013 LS460L..
Hello, thanks for watching and commenting, simply put, in the 18yrs of working on cars, I have never once opened the bleeder when pressing in the caliper piston back, I just leave the master cylinder cap off. I hope you found the video helpful and good luck on the brake job!
@@joesdiy4260 Appreciate the response, was just curious. Didn't even need to crack the bleeder open either, correct? Looks straight forward - was just concerned about any ABS lights, etc. due to the 'fancy' braking system/tech on the LS.
@@Trusty-Rusty I personally have never cracked the bleeder in all the brake jobs I have done for the past 17yrs. Just un did the cap and compress the piston
Hello Ben, thanks for watching and for commenting. I am a bit confused because there wasn't a top clip that you are referring too. Maybe your setup is slightly different?
@dasteufelhund are you referring to the brake pad wear sensors? If you are then, unplugging them would get the low brake pad indicator. Two things you could try: 1.You can measure the resistance in the sensors, then buy a resistor and solder wires to each leg of the resistor and then solder those wires to the brake pad wear sensors connector. 2. You can just leave the sensor plugged in and zip tie it somewhere so it will never contact the brake pad.
@@joesdiy4260 I like option 2, so leave it plugged it but take the contact end out and zip tie it away from the pads and duct tape over the warning light on the dash?
@dasteufelhund if the light is on, and you dont want to see it, then you can tape over it OR replace the sensor to not see the light. But zip tying the sensor out of the way is what I would do to move the sensor out of the way.
Are you referring to the brake hardware that I show in the video as shims? The little metal wire that goes on the corner of the brake pad? If so, its good general practice to replace those but if you bought a set of pads that did not come with new ones. Then you should reuse your old hardware.
@@michaelbutcher9343 ahhh I know what you are referring to. It is the anti rattle clip on the brake pad. For this vehicle, there is only 1 clip per brake pad and in the brake pad kit, I only recieved a total of 2 clips, so 1 per brake pad. Hope this helps!
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I've seen other videos where there are two V-shaped clips (7:50) for the top and bottom of the pads just underneath that outer long vertical clip. There is a Lexus TSB L-SB-0036-15 that expressly recommends fitting two V clips to fix any brake vibration.
Hello, thank you for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it. I reviewed the TSB and the TSB you mention applies to 2 wheel drive 460L models. Therefore, this TSB should not apply to this video since this is a 4wd 460L model. But this has me thinking, I should look up TSBs prior to all brake job videos I do in the future, that way, I can present the most relevant information. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I really appreciate it. I will go ahead and pin this comment to the top for all other viewers. Thanks!
@@joesdiy4260 Great info!!!!
79 ft lbs of torque on those 19 mm brake caliper bolts, btw. And thanks. Strangest brakes I ever changed, I couldn't have done it without this video.
Thanks! That really means a lot! I am super happy that you found the video helpful and thank you for posting the torque spec! Have a great day!
Probably the best DIY video for the 4th generation LS Lexus. Did you happen to make a video showing how to do the rear brakes and rotors?? I have to do those as well! Great video. Thank you!
Hi Melissa, thank you so much for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it. I do NOT have a video of the rear brakes, but when the time comes to replace them on this car, I will be sure to film it. Take care and I wish you the best on your car projects!
Excellent video. With your help I was able to do this myself. One suggestion if the rotor is seized I use a couple of M8 x 1.25 bolts to back it off the hub. Works like a charm.
I cannot express how happy I am to get comments like this. I make videos for this exact reason and I am so happy and thankful that I can help so many people. I am genuinely happy to hear that you were able to use this video to replace your brakes.
In regards to using the bolts, I personally have not had luck with using bolts with these rust belt cars that I work on. But I appreciate the advice.
Take care and have a great holiday season!
Appreciate the video, going to tackle the wife’s car tomorrow!
You are so very welcome! Thank YOU for watching and commenting, I wish you the best of luck!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Hey, thank you so much for the kind words. I really appreciate you watching and commenting and I am happy that you found the video helpful. Take care!
Good, meticulous job with easy to follow steps. Thanks.
Thanks Barry! I really appreciate the kind words and I hope the video was able to help you out. Cheers!
Great job. I am about to do this on my 2011 LS460 and was going to do a tutorial as well. I think you covered it well. There are two things that I would suggest for your viewers. One being to use soapy water and a gentle toothbrush on the piston rubber dust covers. If you just push them back in, you are pushing in the dirt and grim around the edges as well which can lead to tearing the boot cover or even stuck pistons. Don't use hard brake clean chemical on that rubber. Also, I would suggest grease on the slide pins as well. I hope that helps someone @GreggyGTV
I actually have stopped using brake clean and just use water with a soft bristle brush, as you suggested. In the 18yrs of doing brakes, I have never had an issue where a boot became torn because I did not clean it before pressing in the piston, but that is a great practice to have.
I will always lube slide pins on a floating caliper, but the reason why I never lube slide pins on a fixed caliper because the grease will just collect to a ball and then makes its way somewhere in the rotor or pad area. That is only logical guess, I have no experience to back up my theory. But I haven't had issues when I DONT lube pins on a fixed caliper.
Thanks your watching and commenting, I wish you the best of luck on the job and I am really happy to hear that you found the video helpful. Cheers!
@@joesdiy4260 have you done the rear pads on the LS yet? I'm seeing conflicting information that maybe you may have to hook up a battery to the terminals of the caliper to get the e brake motor to move so you can push in the piston. Any experience with this?
@GreggyGTV I have done rear pads and rotors on a different LS460, same year (not the exact one in this video) but all you have to do is press the parking brake release on the interior of the vehicle. From what I recall, the parking brake was not integrated in the caliper. It had parking brake shoes in the hat or drum portion of the rotor. I am not familiar with the year-to-year changes on these cars, so some could have come with the parking brake modules integrated to the caliper and others not. Best way to find out is to poke your head back there and take a peek. Good luck!
@@joesdiy4260 Thanks man. I never use my electronic parking brake, it's always disengaged, so I'm thinking it won't be an issue. one last question, did you have any issues with any malfunctions or codes when pushing the rear pistons back in? Some say the brake actuator doesn't like that.
@GreggyGTV I believe the parking brake will automatically engage every time you put the car in park. And no, I had no lights, messages or codes on the dash when I pressed in the caliper.
Great video ! Very easy to follow. Thanks for your time doing this.
Hey Jeff, I really appreciate the kind words. Comments like this is why I make videos, love helping people out. Cheers!
Thanks for the video save money to do it yourself, the dealer would overcharge for this type of job.
I am very happy to hear that you were able to use this video to fix your car! Thanks for watching and commenting, take care.
Best video for Lexus LS460 brakes thanks help a lot
Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate the feedback and it really means a lot if I was able to help you out. Take care!
Great video, thank you. Very detailed
@123lolshto I really appreciate that you watched and commented on the video. I really hope it helps you with your project.
Thanks very good video 👍🏾
Hello, thanks for watching and commenting, I really do appreciate it. I hope you have a wonderful day!
What did you apply to the mounting plate before putting the rotor back on?
@jericoproducts6261 hey, thanks for watching and commenting, i applied anti seeze. Being in the rust belt (north east US) our rotors like to get rusted onto the wheel bearing hub face, that is the "mounting plate" you referenced. So the next time I perform a brake job, the rotor will just come off without force.
I just did my breaks and my pedal is super stiff and a bunch of lights came on in the dashboard. Any help?
@@Bfprojectz hi, sorry to hear that. Did you do the front or back brakes?
So you don’t have to break the bleeding bolts loose on the calibers when pushing old pads in, to keep from pushing brake fluid back through the system? I have a 2013 LS460L..
Hello, thanks for watching and commenting, simply put, in the 18yrs of working on cars, I have never once opened the bleeder when pressing in the caliper piston back, I just leave the master cylinder cap off. I hope you found the video helpful and good luck on the brake job!
Ok thank you sir!
Great video! Ready to tackle rotors/pads sometime this week on my 2015. Did you disconnect the battery? Thanks!
Hi Russell, I did not disconnect the battery. Good luck with the repair and I hope you are successful.
@@joesdiy4260 Appreciate the response, was just curious. Didn't even need to crack the bleeder open either, correct? Looks straight forward - was just concerned about any ABS lights, etc. due to the 'fancy' braking system/tech on the LS.
@@Trusty-Rusty I personally have never cracked the bleeder in all the brake jobs I have done for the past 17yrs. Just un did the cap and compress the piston
@@joesdiy4260 You also may need to remove some fluid from the reservoir if it's full to avoid spill over while pistons are compressed.
You missed a clip that goes on the top part of the pads so that they wear evenly. You only put the button one on.
Hello Ben, thanks for watching and for commenting. I am a bit confused because there wasn't a top clip that you are referring too. Maybe your setup is slightly different?
What was the overall cost. I have to do mine soon. Great vid!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! I think the brake pads we used were duralast golds and they run about $60. Take care!
Great Thanks
Thank YOU so much for watching and commenting, I am so glad to hear that this video helped out. Good luck and take care!
Joe, if you don't use these indicators, what would happen? I'd like to delete them.
@dasteufelhund are you referring to the brake pad wear sensors? If you are then, unplugging them would get the low brake pad indicator.
Two things you could try:
1.You can measure the resistance in the sensors, then buy a resistor and solder wires to each leg of the resistor and then solder those wires to the brake pad wear sensors connector.
2. You can just leave the sensor plugged in and zip tie it somewhere so it will never contact the brake pad.
@@joesdiy4260 I like option 2, so leave it plugged it but take the contact end out and zip tie it away from the pads and duct tape over the warning light on the dash?
@dasteufelhund if the light is on, and you dont want to see it, then you can tape over it OR replace the sensor to not see the light. But zip tying the sensor out of the way is what I would do to move the sensor out of the way.
@@joesdiy4260 MY MAN!
@@dasteufelhund how is this working for you?
Are shim kits an optional thing ?
Are you referring to the brake hardware that I show in the video as shims? The little metal wire that goes on the corner of the brake pad? If so, its good general practice to replace those but if you bought a set of pads that did not come with new ones. Then you should reuse your old hardware.
Where is top clip?
Are you talking about the clip that holds the brake pad wear sensor on the pad?
@@joesdiy4260 brake pad spring clip
@@michaelbutcher9343 ahhh I know what you are referring to. It is the anti rattle clip on the brake pad. For this vehicle, there is only 1 clip per brake pad and in the brake pad kit, I only recieved a total of 2 clips, so 1 per brake pad. Hope this helps!