@l.c.2388 by putting a solenoid in the trunk, the large battery cable running under the car is only hot when the key is turned. Less chance of any shorts or issues in the future. More of a piece of mind for me.
I understand the purpose of the solenoid but wouldn't the breaker eliminate any of the risk associated w/ that 1/0 wire being hot at all time? I'm planning my build and debating if I go with the added complexity of the solenoid. Oh and why did you run a separate 4g wire for the distribution block. Couldn't that have been shared with the alternator feed? Also, thanks for you service 🫡
In terms of function, yes. The breaker would essentially trip if something happened to that wire. I didn't want to worry about it. I have had things happen and damage be done before the breaker tripped. The solenoid removes it from being a constant hot wire. You can't feed to the fuse box from the alternator. When you turn off the car the alternator will keep it running. David freiburger explains this better on roadkill garage on his f-rod wiring video.
@@RecycledRacing I just found the video. His design seems to be related to making sure shut off switch effectively kills the fuse panel. I'm not sure I have that problem in my design. Gives me something to think through though.
@stevemullin7472 I used to run the positive cable up to the starter lug and brach off from there. On two different vehicles, after racing a bunch, the lug rotated and made contact with the starter body. One started a fire. I had one car blow a freeze plug, and the coolant somehow made that electrical connection to short put that line. Only one tripped a breaker. I saw his video, and I really liked not having that wire hot all the time. I still have two hot wires going through the car, but they are smaller and well protected. It's kind of an experience based personal preference. And I usually overkill an area I have issues in.
@@RecycledRacing appreciate the insight. its always good to learn from others challenges so I can avoid them. keep up the great content, I'm really learning a lot.
My setup isn't geared towards racing. I installed the cutoff switch as more of a maintenance tool so I can remove power if needed. If I change my mind in the future, I can run a solid remote rod to the panel between the tail lights. But I doubt this car will see that kind of driving.
I like the battery setup. I'll probably do something very similar when I rewire my car.
Just make sure it's bolted down well. Ask me how I know!!
What is the point of the solenoid if the starter already has one?
@l.c.2388 by putting a solenoid in the trunk, the large battery cable running under the car is only hot when the key is turned. Less chance of any shorts or issues in the future. More of a piece of mind for me.
I understand the purpose of the solenoid but wouldn't the breaker eliminate any of the risk associated w/ that 1/0 wire being hot at all time? I'm planning my build and debating if I go with the added complexity of the solenoid. Oh and why did you run a separate 4g wire for the distribution block. Couldn't that have been shared with the alternator feed? Also, thanks for you service 🫡
In terms of function, yes. The breaker would essentially trip if something happened to that wire. I didn't want to worry about it. I have had things happen and damage be done before the breaker tripped. The solenoid removes it from being a constant hot wire.
You can't feed to the fuse box from the alternator. When you turn off the car the alternator will keep it running.
David freiburger explains this better on roadkill garage on his f-rod wiring video.
@@RecycledRacing I just found the video. His design seems to be related to making sure shut off switch effectively kills the fuse panel. I'm not sure I have that problem in my design. Gives me something to think through though.
@stevemullin7472 I used to run the positive cable up to the starter lug and brach off from there. On two different vehicles, after racing a bunch, the lug rotated and made contact with the starter body. One started a fire. I had one car blow a freeze plug, and the coolant somehow made that electrical connection to short put that line. Only one tripped a breaker.
I saw his video, and I really liked not having that wire hot all the time. I still have two hot wires going through the car, but they are smaller and well protected.
It's kind of an experience based personal preference. And I usually overkill an area I have issues in.
@@RecycledRacing appreciate the insight. its always good to learn from others challenges so I can avoid them. keep up the great content, I'm really learning a lot.
Why would you leave the battery cutoff switch inside the trunk why didn't you put it on the back of the car above the bumper
My setup isn't geared towards racing. I installed the cutoff switch as more of a maintenance tool so I can remove power if needed. If I change my mind in the future, I can run a solid remote rod to the panel between the tail lights. But I doubt this car will see that kind of driving.
Just hurry up and drive it!!! 🤣😜 Figured since I got mentioned I might at well say something…lol
Getting there. Going as quick as I can!!