"you don't have to pay an arm and a leg.." haha I've just started the sport and find your instructional videos the best by far on the internet as a whole. Keep up the great work Thank you !
Nu- year 2 in my archery journey and I just wanted to thank you- you have no idea how helpful your videos are amidst all the noise and misinformation and ignorance. If you are ever in Austin, look me up- you are owed at least a pint and a place to crash for free!
When you consider limbs at higher price ranges here are a few other considerations: - Can you shoot 1300 with wood glass limbs on a twisted magnesium riser, with minimal limbs adjustment? Yes. Of course one wood need to be world class, but it is possible. -There aren't just cheap/expensive, bad/good, beginner/advanced limbs. There are a wide range of limbs, some are 90% as good as the "beast limbs", and half the price of the best limbs. - How do average wood glass limbs today compare to wood glass premium limbs of the past. Not sure, but my guess is since it is a relatively easy product to make, shouldn't be too bad. - Are archery competitions won by having the fastest limbs, or the smoothest limbs? No, they are won on the basis of the highest score. Which is affected by arrow speed and limb smoothness, but accuracy is the most important point, and there isn't a standardized test for that. - What kind of shooting am I doing? Outdoor shooting at 90 meters is a lot more demanding than indoor shooting at 20 meters, where speed is concerned. Etc.. Add into your selection issues what kind of shooting you do and how your limb choice will affect that. - One of my favourite question is to ask myself "how many points are there in..." whatever technology I am considering. Differences do not mean significant differences. If you implement a change that does not gain you an additional point, it is useless., probably. On something like a deer at 20 yards it is hard t see any points in many equipment upgrades, since that shot can reliably be made with a hickory self-bow. Often more advanced equipment has no net additional value, as it will trade some new problems for adjustments to old problems. So, the fact certain changes are not all that helpful or necessary doesn't ,mean one shouldn't pursue them. One may learn something new, and gains some enjoyment fiddling with gear, but it may be an activity that is outside the rational outline one has for progressing in the pastime.
NU you just have this ability to draw ppl in with how u talk,, as well as ur knowledge. At least I think anyhow. I enjoy learning from you and listening to you
Great videos and for the Bruce Lee t-shirt you definitely get extra points. My daughters just took up archery after months of pestering so now I will make them watch all your videos. Thank you for all your effort.
When I started shooting, I started out with a 62" bow, which was way too short for me, at 5.7' and draw length ~28", so moving from that to a 68" bow was so much better. Plus I got to buy another bow, which is always exciting :-)
This is the best tutorial i found on entire web about limbs . Now i know that i have a 65" recurve ( 24" riser+ 66"limbs) but i need a 68"bow acording to my drawlenght. Many, many thanks.
Excellent videos! Just getting back into archery having done it a little bit as a teenager but having to jog my memory on all the basic technical stuff. These are really helpful and you have an excellent manner of presentation!....Thank you sir!
Thanks for this video 👍🏻 I make wood/epoxy items and I have been considering adding bows to my new stuff for this year. I was originally looking at videos about making limbs, but now I will just focus my attention to the riser and likely purchase limbs. I may still make a set of limbs to do the job right, but yeah. Thanks 🙌🏻
Thanks, son - very interesting & well presented. I repair & make guitars (even the occasional violin bow).. just taken interest in archery - and obviously thinking '🤔?? lots of wood - make my own'. So hearing everyone's points of view is critical. 😉
I just got some intermediate limbs (shop soiled Hoyt 720 - some "paint" chipped off) for my Hoyt riser. Also tried some Samick limbs around the same sort of price mark (£150). Although both fit the riser the Samicks needed some work behind the counter to actually get the limbs on the bolts. Apparently it is a known thing with the Hoyt risers. So that is something you may need to be aware of.
i have a 60 inch belly and 66 inch limbs. i didnt notice that the string could only be drawn back so far. looks like i need some more limbs to suite the bow. thanxs for the infor it very much helped :)
I think that this video of yours explains why I might want to upgrade from my beginner Sammick Sage bow. It seems that what you're saying is that the carbon limbs are "smoother" because they're more linear and have less stacking at the end of the pull.
Fairly well done! Your conclusion that carbon fiber recurve limbs are considerably faster than plain fiberglass limbs is unfounded. Carbon fiber limbs are more thermally stable (unaffected by temperature changes) and more consistent in their performance and a tiny bit faster. Most people forget that as important as limb weight or possibly more is their resilience, a measure of the speed at which they resume their undrawn shape. With the advent of fiberglass limb laminations, the performance differences between limbs almost vanished (it did not quite vanish, see The Heretic Archer) but limbs became roughly the same in performance, which is why most archers only think poundage and not poundage + resilience when assessing limbs. (Limb design is also a factor, but limb design reached close to optimum levels a while ago and everyone has copied those designs.) The performace advantage of carbon limbs almost vanishes when you tune a bow to a particuular arrow. The fiberglass limbs may be needed to be set a half a pound heavier to get the same tune. The perfomance advantages of carbon limbs are real, but the cost disadvantage is extreme. Until one is approaching the elite level, it is likely that no performance increase will be seen in such a purchase. Extra money is better spent on better arrows where carbon really shines (a dull black!).
I agree with that, though it is well to remember, that not everyone has a budget to stick to. Archery is a very cheap sport compared to almost all sports out there. Playing kid hockey here in Canada is like 5 K a year, that is a lot of archery gear. But even so, the highest end limbs are often not all that shootable either, so one may end up disappointed. If you are a beginer, I would recommend spending the equivalent of expensive limbs on a lot of limbs weights in good level limbs. Being overbowed is the single biggest problem in archery, technically, provably. If you own all the plausible weights in your range, you will be more likely to shoot the right ones in your level.
The syntactic foam made more difference in stability, understandably, considering it is a similar material as used on the heat shields on the space shuttle
Hmm, I disagree with the poundages required, but that might be culture as well. Here we recommend 18-ish pounders for the greenest and more 21-ish for green that are stronger. For Recurve, anywhere from 25 pounds or up will get you to 80 yards. Lots of people use such as well, although 30-35 is common as well. For Barebow-recurve, more poundage is advised though, anywhere from 35-45 pounds generally, if you're shooting field or FITA
I have a Martin Diablo and have two sets of limbs for it. A set of 35lb. and a set of 45lb. I started with the 45 and found it too difficult. Switched to the 35's and worked at it for a year then stepped back into the 45 with no problems.
on one hand i love you coz you are so detailed especially for us beginners choosing their first kit. On the other hand you ramble too much and I get confused with every video of yours. I recommend you to use some summary text in your videos everytime you finish talking about one aspect of the review and advice.
I shoot bear attitude compound bow 50-60pound. Recurve was to difficulty for a beginner like me, I didn't have any local guidance. So I don't know what drawn length or bondage to get if I was to buy a recurve. I don't regret beginning with compound. It's so adjustable and easy to hold with 80% let off.. maybe I include recurve in my hobby next year. If I figure out what bow that would fit me. I love shooting with a mechanical release. So maybe recurve isn't for me..
What about a 21" hunting riser and a 25" olympic style riser with the same model limbs, just different lengths to make the overall bow length the same, would the draw weight be roughly the same?
Hello again Sensei, I tried a set of carbon and foam limbs earlier this week, and I loved them so much that I know carbon limbs will be my next purchase. However, I wasn't too sure on the difference between carbon w/ foam core and carbon w/ wood core. Have you ever tried carbon limbs with a wood core? And if so, does the weight stack on them like fiberglass & wood? How do they compare to a set of foam core carbon limbs? I just want to make sure that I'll be buying the limbs that I want, and not something like what I already have. Smoothness is really what I'm after. Thanks!
The differences get pretty subtle between foam and wood core,and it's hard to describe the difference. One of the big things is how their performance changes under different temperatures. I believe wood tends to be more affected by changes than carbon. Otherwise, I've only shot wood/fiberglass and carbon/foam.
NUSensei Ok, I was looking more for a difference in feel than anything else; all my searching on the topic has spelled out all the other differences already. I suppose I'll just have to try wood core carbon limbs before I make my choice. Wood cores definitely seem to be far cheaper than foam core carbon limbs. Thanks for your quick reply yet again, I really appreciate it!
in japan you see everyone using a japanese long bow, the length is between 6 to 8 feet, what is the difference in effectiveness speed, or ease of use between a short bow, and a long bow? short bow i would consider to be maybe what you have discussed here
I've got a 32 inch draw. I just got a 27 inch riser and some 70 inch limbs that makes a 72" bow. The poundage at 28 is 36 and I'm pulling 45 pounds. That is some serious stacking there.
You shouldn't have stacking with a 72" bow at a 32" draw, you should even be able to use a 70" bow, it's unlikely to be stacking with a bow that long, it is more likely that the limbs are too heavy and you need to build up to them
hello again :D i have another question, ive decided to go with a rio supercast 25" raiser and W&W Sebastian Flute axion plus limbs but it asks for the limb size (small,medium,large) what does the size mean? im trying to pick the string but im not sure how long the limbs are, What should i do?
What about string and nocking point height? If I have setup a bowstring for a 25" riser with short limbs (66" bow), can I use the same string on a 23" riser with medium limbs (also a 66" bow), or will the nocking points not be aligned properly, requiring me to set up individual strings for each unique riser/limb combination?
I went from 30l# to a massive 45#. i got that in a Jaguar Elite and it itelt too heavy and stacked too fast. then I went to the current setup at 40#. I adjusted the tiller bolt to make 42# but currently thinking of going up tto a 44# or 45# now that the draw weight gotten a lot lighter.
What would you say the difference between the higher end limbs would be, like if I was contemplating buying a set of Win and Win against a set of Hoyt limbs what are the usual spec differences to look out for or is it just judgement by feel?
I have many limbs. 46# limbs are on my draw 61#. I allso have 40# limbs and they are 55# (omd). I have find out that when i shoot trad style i can draw heavier bow. When i try out olympic style louwer ancor point it is more difficult to draw same limbs. And shoot target that is low on ground level and 15m.
Normally Olympic style is easier to shoot biomechanically because both hands are lower, nearer to the ground. But one may spend more time at full draw, and one may shoot more arrows in a session, and the targets may be more demanding.
another great vid! damn they get expensive! I cant imagine it costing more than $80 to make even the most expensive carbon limbs. carbon fiber is no longer the rare, space-aged material it once was. i gotta finde a "how it's made" clip of these things!
You are dead right, as a boat builder before 9/11 and the impact of the wars, and aribus on the price of carbon, we did a quote for a spar where the high tech carbon version was cheaper than spruce. I live in Canada where wood is not free, but it isn't imported, or anything, either. Since then the price has never recovered to where carbon is cheaper than wood, but the cost is still pretty low.
What is the difference between the "top" and "bottom" limbs? Hoyt and a few other limbs are marked as such. Can they be used interchangebly as they do fit into the riser either way? The construction is exactly the same as well. Thank you
Tiller is the relative stiffness of the limbs so they work well together. It is measured with a rule at the pint where the limbs exit the riser, or any other consistent point. It should be even for 3 fingers under, and a little longer measurement on the upper limb for a split finger release. It is also something one tunes for performance.
NuSensie, enjoyed your video very informative and your honesty. I have a question when you order limbs say from Lancaster can you tell them exactly the weight you want, if you want 40# limbs at mid setting so you can go down a pound or two and up a pound or two. I have heard that some limbs might 40# on one 25" riser and more or less on another 25" riser. Thank you. Alan
There will probably be some difference in actual draw weight. It's hard to get something *exactly* 40# out of the box, given the slight variations in draw length and riser configuration.
Hi Mr Nu, other than those advantages. Do you think with high end limb people can using heavier poundage with out fatigue? Such as I am using 68'' bow long with #28 medium limb W&W Winex( $450). My draw length is 28''. My actual comfortable draw weight is 28#. If I go with the medium W&W NS-G( $730), can I go up to 30# but still feel comfortable? Some people told that they tried shoot the W&W NS-S and feel it lighter 4# than what they thought.
You can swap Sammick Sage with a Martin Jaguar I'm told - only real reason you would is to replace damaged limbs on a budget or because Sammick limbs are easier to acquire
i'm a newbie to the sport, but trying some better limbs have made me invest in some "better" limbs, as i build my endurance up. keen to know the difference between the foam and "solid" limbs?? i have the budget sf foam limbs, really like the way they work. not had chance to try the uber limbs yet.
The AF Axiom is pretty much the lowest entry-level bow. It's fine to learn with, but is otherwise a heavy hunk of metal. The Axiom+ is the same thing with holes cut out. They're completely fine for a beginner, but for a bit more you can get something like the SF Premium or SF Forged, which is SF's mid-range gear which feels more balanced and responsive. The Excel is OK, though you may want to look at the Hoyt Horizon.
Is there any advantage of the Asian siyah limbs over a regular recurve. the siyahs gove the bow more reflex but add weights to the limb. At which draw weight does the advantage out weight the disadvantage?
I have a question and I'm finally beginning to believe that there is no known answer. What are the pins called that go from the back of the riser into a washer in the front of the limb, to help stabilize it?...and what is the washer called?
The "pegs" I referred to are on pins on the back of the riser that go into the limbs. They work in conjunction with the tiller bolts to keep the limbs straight.
Are solid fiberglass limbs acceptable on a first bow? I know they are around 10 fps slower than wooden limbs, but are there other differences aside speed? I bought the pse kingfisher instead of the samick sage and wonder if it is inferior to the sage. I want to target shoot and hunt with the bow. I actually really like it but never tried the sage.
Hi NU Sensei, I have bought my first riser after finishing with a beginner bow. I have gone for a reasonably expensive one, the W&W RCX-100 (25"), with the thought that I can upgrade the limbs as I improve. Are there any limbs you would recommend as a good early intermediate limb that will last me for a while.
Wow i just got addicted to you're videos, cant stop watching :D great info. i would like to know if it matters which limb goes where, you have a top one and a bottom one, if they are not marked does it matter where they go? And how can I find out which is the top one and which is the bottom one? I have the RAGIM wildcat wooden re-curve take-down bow :D
I have a quick question. Ive found there are 2 sets of limbs one with a wood core and one with foam core. Both have carbon exterior. Whats the major difference between the 2 cores if there is any? Is it just user preference?
I got a 27 hpx riser Hoyt with 28 pound Quattro carbon hoyt. If I decide to go to 30 pound limbs with shorts with wood for $ saving, would that be okay?
What makes limbs inefficient is that they accelerate, so less energy goes to the arrow. Thus lighter limbs are more efficient. Compare their weights to carbon+foam and fiberglass+wood and you should get an idea of how efficient they are.
How about fiberglass/graphite foam limbs compared to finberglass/wood limbs? Like these Kaya Tomcats. (Not the Carbon version.) www.archerytorque.com/image/data/ETC1/Tom-Layer.jpg
Hey NUsensei love the videos they have been really helpful. I am looking into new limbs on my bow and I found these SF elite fibre/foam limbs however I cant seem to find any reviews on them on what people thought so if you know anything at all about them please let me know. The price on them is about £100 so for that seems quite reasonable, any advice would be appreciated.
Nu, I was wondering how you felt about the kaya limbs in this video? My archery focus is more traditional 3D/hunting than fita target. Are those a consistent set with good value at their price point? Is there another option in the same range that is vastly superior? Thank you for your time, sir.
Could you use two different brands of limbs (with the same poundage) at the same time or no because they could have different materials in them? FYI I'm talking about ILF limbs.
Technically you can, but different brands are made differently (different materials, different layers, different shapes, different thicknesses), so your limbs will perform unevenly. This can make consistency and tuning a nightmare. I suppose it's possible as a stopgap measure, but I would replace a limb rather than use two different limbs.
love your vids on archery, Me and my brother in law finished a beginners course at Sydney Olympic park. I want to know which recurve is best, i want a martin saber because it has a good reviews, but he want to buy an individual riser and limbs. Whats the best way of choosing? im going for small hunts/target and he wants target shooting. We are going to abbeys this weekend to purchase our bows. Our DL is 28 and our DW is 35. Thanks
You're both on the right track. The Martin Saber is a hunting bow and is good enough for that purpose. However, it's not made for consistency at longer distances, which is what your brother wants for target shooting. If he's taking it up as a sport, I would recommend a target takedown bow. See my video on Hunting vs Target bows, and Clarifying Target Archery.
i had 24lb before, now i upgraded to 30lb, but theres a problem after i change limb my set became rattly and vibrating so much, everything is tight and doesnt rattle woth the 24 lb limb what do you think is causing it? my older limb is sf axiom 24, new one is mybo synergy 30lb
indbeegee It's usually a matter of preference. Wood/carbon is generally smoother to draw, while foam and fiberglass is punchier and louder. At the expensive end, the differences aren't as great.
Carbon limbs tend to be faster, but can be a little stiffer to draw. Fiberglass limbs aren't usually used in bows - mostly, they're wood core with fiberglass laminate, and generally those are gentler in draw-force curve, but tend to be a little slower and less consistent, especially in varying weather conditions. Plain fiberglass limbs (such as in youth bows) don't offer much in consistency and performance compared to more advanced materials, but can get the job done at short distances.
Is it okay to have one wood limb and one carbon limb. I know you talked about it in the video but I wasn't sure if you were talking about mixing brands and mixing materials or if it was just missing brands.
RandomVideos4U You really should be using limbs from the same set. The differences in materials and construction will cause too much variation to work with, especially when it comes to fine tuning.
I have a take-down recurve. It's tuned to my satisfaction. Is there any way to disassemble it and keep the string from unwinding and changing the brace height etc. (I love your RUclips vids!)
Hey NuSensei, have you had any experience with Samick Nighthawk/Lighting Takedown recurve? I am torn between this and a Bearpaw Penthalon Navajo. Do you have any advice regarding this? Thank you
Hi - Been shooting about a year and using Kaya K1 limbs, and wanting to upgrade. Using 36# which is fine, but looking at carbon upgrades, there is such a massive price difference, so unsure what is the best route. Kaya K3 carbon seem reasonably priced, but is it worth spending a bit more on some W&W or hoyte limbs, or are you just paying for the name? I just want to avoid trying to find the cheapest carbon limbs, and then wishing I had paid more - i look forward to your reply
Jez Turner Generally speaking, the higher-end limbs will have a gentler, more linear draw curve - meaning that they will be smoother to draw and stack less. If you're aiming for competition gear, they would be desirable. If you're only aiming for something that you feel comfortable shooting, and within your budget, the K3 is fine for what it does.
"you don't have to pay an arm and a leg.." haha
I've just started the sport and find your instructional videos the best by far on the internet as a whole.
Keep up the great work
Thank you !
Nu- year 2 in my archery journey and I just wanted to thank you- you have no idea how helpful your videos are amidst all the noise and misinformation and ignorance. If you are ever in Austin, look me up- you are owed at least a pint and a place to crash for free!
Your videos are like a portal into a completely foreign world that is the world of archery. Keep kicking ass, Sensei.
When you consider limbs at higher price ranges here are a few other considerations:
- Can you shoot 1300 with wood glass limbs on a twisted magnesium riser, with minimal limbs adjustment? Yes. Of course one wood need to be world class, but it is possible.
-There aren't just cheap/expensive, bad/good, beginner/advanced limbs. There are a wide range of limbs, some are 90% as good as the "beast limbs", and half the price of the best limbs.
- How do average wood glass limbs today compare to wood glass premium limbs of the past. Not sure, but my guess is since it is a relatively easy product to make, shouldn't be too bad.
- Are archery competitions won by having the fastest limbs, or the smoothest limbs? No, they are won on the basis of the highest score. Which is affected by arrow speed and limb smoothness, but accuracy is the most important point, and there isn't a standardized test for that.
- What kind of shooting am I doing? Outdoor shooting at 90 meters is a lot more demanding than indoor shooting at 20 meters, where speed is concerned. Etc.. Add into your selection issues what kind of shooting you do and how your limb choice will affect that.
- One of my favourite question is to ask myself "how many points are there in..." whatever technology I am considering. Differences do not mean significant differences. If you implement a change that does not gain you an additional point, it is useless., probably. On something like a deer at 20 yards it is hard t see any points in many equipment upgrades, since that shot can reliably be made with a hickory self-bow. Often more advanced equipment has no net additional value, as it will trade some new problems for adjustments to old problems.
So, the fact certain changes are not all that helpful or necessary doesn't ,mean one shouldn't pursue them. One may learn something new, and gains some enjoyment fiddling with gear, but it may be an activity that is outside the rational outline one has for progressing in the pastime.
Don't pay a limb for limbs. Got it! Thanks Sensei...
This channel has been imperative in my research of archery. Thank you so much for your seemingly unbiased, and informative videos.
I've gone through a few of your videos now and you've answered pretty much every question I, as a beginning archer, have had. Thanks, man!
NU you just have this ability to draw ppl in with how u talk,, as well as ur knowledge. At least I think anyhow. I enjoy learning from you and listening to you
Great videos and for the Bruce Lee t-shirt you definitely get extra points. My daughters just took up archery after months of pestering so now I will make them watch all your videos. Thank you for all your effort.
As someone that is just getting into the sprt this was an astronomical help. all your videos have helped me out so much. Keep up the great work ^_^
When I started shooting, I started out with a 62" bow, which was way too short for me, at 5.7' and draw length ~28", so moving from that to a 68" bow was so much better. Plus I got to buy another bow, which is always exciting :-)
This is the best tutorial i found on entire web about limbs . Now i know that i have a 65" recurve ( 24" riser+ 66"limbs) but i need a 68"bow acording to my drawlenght. Many, many thanks.
Another great video. You really do make it incredibly easy to understand all the little complexities that make archery and a good archer. Many thanks.
this instructor has so good knowledge, thank for the video
I've got hoyt limbs on a cheap-ass striker riser, works totally fine
Excellent videos! Just getting back into archery having done it a little bit as a teenager but having to jog my memory on all the basic technical stuff. These are really helpful and you have an excellent manner of presentation!....Thank you sir!
Thanks for this video 👍🏻 I make wood/epoxy items and I have been considering adding bows to my new stuff for this year. I was originally looking at videos about making limbs, but now I will just focus my attention to the riser and likely purchase limbs. I may still make a set of limbs to do the job right, but yeah. Thanks 🙌🏻
Thanks, son - very interesting & well presented.
I repair & make guitars (even the occasional violin bow).. just taken interest in archery - and obviously thinking '🤔?? lots of wood - make my own'. So hearing everyone's points of view is critical.
😉
I just got some intermediate limbs (shop soiled Hoyt 720 - some "paint" chipped off) for my Hoyt riser. Also tried some Samick limbs around the same sort of price mark (£150). Although both fit the riser the Samicks needed some work behind the counter to actually get the limbs on the bolts. Apparently it is a known thing with the Hoyt risers. So that is something you may need to be aware of.
Your videos are great! Casual, yet extremely informative and helpful. Thank you so much for the time you send creating and posting these.
Great video, very informative. thank you for taking the time to help out new archers.
Nice Feldbluse at the door ;)
I like your Chanel a lot. You have Talent to discripe thinks.
Reguards from Germany
i have a 60 inch belly and 66 inch limbs. i didnt notice that the string could only be drawn back so far. looks like i need some more limbs to suite the bow. thanxs for the infor it very much helped :)
I think that this video of yours explains why I might want to upgrade from my beginner Sammick Sage bow. It seems that what you're saying is that the carbon limbs are "smoother" because they're more linear and have less stacking at the end of the pull.
Fairly well done! Your conclusion that carbon fiber recurve limbs are considerably faster than plain fiberglass limbs is unfounded. Carbon fiber limbs are more thermally stable (unaffected by temperature changes) and more consistent in their performance and a tiny bit faster.
Most people forget that as important as limb weight or possibly more is their resilience, a measure of the speed at which they resume their undrawn shape. With the advent of fiberglass limb laminations, the performance differences between limbs almost vanished (it did not quite vanish, see The Heretic Archer) but limbs became roughly the same in performance, which is why most archers only think poundage and not poundage + resilience when assessing limbs. (Limb design is also a factor, but limb design reached close to optimum levels a while ago and everyone has copied those designs.)
The performace advantage of carbon limbs almost vanishes when you tune a bow to a particuular arrow. The fiberglass limbs may be needed to be set a half a pound heavier to get the same tune.
The perfomance advantages of carbon limbs are real, but the cost disadvantage is extreme. Until one is approaching the elite level, it is likely that no performance increase will be seen in such a purchase. Extra money is better spent on better arrows where carbon really shines (a dull black!).
I agree with that, though it is well to remember, that not everyone has a budget to stick to. Archery is a very cheap sport compared to almost all sports out there. Playing kid hockey here in Canada is like 5 K a year, that is a lot of archery gear. But even so, the highest end limbs are often not all that shootable either, so one may end up disappointed. If you are a beginer, I would recommend spending the equivalent of expensive limbs on a lot of limbs weights in good level limbs. Being overbowed is the single biggest problem in archery, technically, provably. If you own all the plausible weights in your range, you will be more likely to shoot the right ones in your level.
The syntactic foam made more difference in stability, understandably, considering it is a similar material as used on the heat shields on the space shuttle
Hmm, I disagree with the poundages required, but that might be culture as well. Here we recommend 18-ish pounders for the greenest and more 21-ish for green that are stronger. For Recurve, anywhere from 25 pounds or up will get you to 80 yards. Lots of people use such as well, although 30-35 is common as well. For Barebow-recurve, more poundage is advised though, anywhere from 35-45 pounds generally, if you're shooting field or FITA
I have a Martin Diablo and have two sets of limbs for it. A set of 35lb. and a set of 45lb. I started with the 45 and found it too difficult. Switched to the 35's and worked at it for a year then stepped back into the 45 with no problems.
on one hand i love you coz you are so detailed especially for us beginners choosing their first kit. On the other hand you ramble too much and I get confused with every video of yours. I recommend you to use some summary text in your videos everytime you finish talking about one aspect of the review and advice.
Great Info for a beginner looking to change styles.
I shoot bear attitude compound bow 50-60pound. Recurve was to difficulty for a beginner like me, I didn't have any local guidance. So I don't know what drawn length or bondage to get if I was to buy a recurve. I don't regret beginning with compound. It's so adjustable and easy to hold with 80% let off.. maybe I include recurve in my hobby next year. If I figure out what bow that would fit me. I love shooting with a mechanical release. So maybe recurve isn't for me..
Extremely informative and well done. Thank you very much!
The same goes for the Stylist from England! They won't use the ILF system and their limbs are beautifully smooth and fast!
What is the difference between w&w inno ex power and w&w ex prime?
What about a 21" hunting riser and a 25" olympic style riser with the same model limbs, just different lengths to make the overall bow length the same, would the draw weight be roughly the same?
Good basic discussion
Hello again Sensei,
I tried a set of carbon and foam limbs earlier this week, and I loved them so much that I know carbon limbs will be my next purchase. However, I wasn't too sure on the difference between carbon w/ foam core and carbon w/ wood core. Have you ever tried carbon limbs with a wood core? And if so, does the weight stack on them like fiberglass & wood? How do they compare to a set of foam core carbon limbs?
I just want to make sure that I'll be buying the limbs that I want, and not something like what I already have. Smoothness is really what I'm after. Thanks!
The differences get pretty subtle between foam and wood core,and it's hard to describe the difference. One of the big things is how their performance changes under different temperatures. I believe wood tends to be more affected by changes than carbon. Otherwise, I've only shot wood/fiberglass and carbon/foam.
NUSensei Ok, I was looking more for a difference in feel than anything else; all my searching on the topic has spelled out all the other differences already. I suppose I'll just have to try wood core carbon limbs before I make my choice. Wood cores definitely seem to be far cheaper than foam core carbon limbs.
Thanks for your quick reply yet again, I really appreciate it!
The core of any bow has zero (nothing) to do with stacking, the stacking is all on the belly and the back, Period.
Can you get pure wooden recurve bows? I can only find English longbows that are pure wood besides the horn parts.
Yes. Look at traditional recurve bows, especially one-piece bows.
in japan you see everyone using a japanese long bow, the length is between 6 to 8 feet, what is the difference in effectiveness speed, or ease of use between a short bow, and a long bow?
short bow i would consider to be maybe what you have discussed here
I've got a 32 inch draw. I just got a 27 inch riser and some 70 inch limbs that makes a 72" bow. The poundage at 28 is 36 and I'm pulling 45 pounds. That is some serious stacking there.
You shouldn't have stacking with a 72" bow at a 32" draw, you should even be able to use a 70" bow, it's unlikely to be stacking with a bow that long, it is more likely that the limbs are too heavy and you need to build up to them
hello again :D i have another question, ive decided to go with a rio supercast 25" raiser and W&W Sebastian Flute axion plus limbs but it asks for the limb size (small,medium,large) what does the size mean? im trying to pick the string but im not sure how long the limbs are, What should i do?
25" riser + Small limbs = 66"
25" riser + Medium = 68"
25" riser + Long = 70"
ahhh okay thanks again!!
NUSensei oh thank you for this! I was really confused on what to get. This is exactly what I needed to know.
What about string and nocking point height? If I have setup a bowstring for a 25" riser with short limbs (66" bow), can I use the same string on a 23" riser with medium limbs (also a 66" bow), or will the nocking points not be aligned properly, requiring me to set up individual strings for each unique riser/limb combination?
I went from 30l# to a massive 45#. i got that in a Jaguar Elite and it itelt too heavy and stacked too fast. then I went to the current setup at 40#. I adjusted the tiller bolt to make 42# but currently thinking of going up tto a 44# or 45# now that the draw weight gotten a lot lighter.
may i know which one smoother and lighter... 30# wood/glass limb vs 30# carbon wood limb? TQ
Great video. Limb size are not because of your body hight. Thank you so much
What do you think about bamboo and carbon limbs or fiberglass and foam limbs?
I seriously love your videos. More please :)
Thank you for your great job,
What would you say the difference between the higher end limbs would be, like if I was contemplating buying a set of Win and Win against a set of Hoyt limbs what are the usual spec differences to look out for or is it just judgement by feel?
great video Nu :)
Your videos are so helpful! Thank you so much!
I have many limbs. 46# limbs are on my draw 61#. I allso have 40# limbs and they are 55# (omd). I have find out that when i shoot trad style i can draw heavier bow. When i try out olympic style louwer ancor point it is more difficult to draw same limbs. And shoot target that is low on ground level and 15m.
Normally Olympic style is easier to shoot biomechanically because both hands are lower, nearer to the ground. But one may spend more time at full draw, and one may shoot more arrows in a session, and the targets may be more demanding.
My sight is more expensive than my bow
me too
And on the high end, Stylist use their own limb fitting too!
Count me in 😂
very good video
What about Chinese made recurve bows/compound bows reliable?
Question, why set up the sidebars like that? i came from compound to recurve
What do you day about3geometrical limbs forma.like Predator niche or falkenholz,border?
another great vid!
damn they get expensive! I cant imagine it costing more than $80 to make even the most expensive carbon limbs. carbon fiber is no longer the rare, space-aged material it once was. i gotta finde a "how it's made" clip of these things!
You are dead right, as a boat builder before 9/11 and the impact of the wars, and aribus on the price of carbon, we did a quote for a spar where the high tech carbon version was cheaper than spruce. I live in Canada where wood is not free, but it isn't imported, or anything, either. Since then the price has never recovered to where carbon is cheaper than wood, but the cost is still pretty low.
What is the difference between the "top" and "bottom" limbs? Hoyt and a few other limbs are marked as such. Can they be used interchangebly as they do fit into the riser either way? The construction is exactly the same as well. Thank you
No. They flex differently and the tiller will be off, usually switching the limbs causes the Arrow to impact lower
What is a tiller? Im using a recurve just in case it matters
Thank you.
Tiller is the relative stiffness of the limbs so they work well together. It is measured with a rule at the pint where the limbs exit the riser, or any other consistent point. It should be even for 3 fingers under, and a little longer measurement on the upper limb for a split finger release. It is also something one tunes for performance.
NuSensie, enjoyed your video very informative and your honesty. I have a question when you order limbs say from Lancaster can you tell them exactly the weight you want, if you want 40# limbs at mid setting so you can go down a pound or two and up a pound or two. I have heard that some limbs might 40# on one 25" riser and more or less on another 25" riser. Thank you. Alan
There will probably be some difference in actual draw weight. It's hard to get something *exactly* 40# out of the box, given the slight variations in draw length and riser configuration.
Hi Mr Nu, other than those advantages. Do you think with high end limb people can using heavier poundage with out fatigue? Such as I am using 68'' bow long with #28 medium limb W&W Winex( $450). My draw length is 28''. My actual comfortable draw weight is 28#. If I go with the medium W&W NS-G( $730), can I go up to 30# but still feel comfortable?
Some people told that they tried shoot the W&W NS-S and feel it lighter 4# than what they thought.
Thank you so much, your videos are very helpful.
Excellent! I'm new and this was very helpful.
Sensei, what’s your opinion on bamboo core limbs? Would you like to make a video to compare different limbs materials?
I want to know if every company is making their own limbs or are they coming out of the same factory?
well done, informative .
You can swap Sammick Sage with a Martin Jaguar I'm told - only real reason you would is to replace damaged limbs on a budget or because Sammick limbs are easier to acquire
i'm a newbie to the sport, but trying some better limbs have made me invest in some "better" limbs, as i build my endurance up. keen to know the difference between the foam and "solid" limbs?? i have the budget sf foam limbs, really like the way they work. not had chance to try the uber limbs yet.
How does an SF Axiom compare to a Hoyt Excel, or, for that matter, anything else in that price range?
The AF Axiom is pretty much the lowest entry-level bow. It's fine to learn with, but is otherwise a heavy hunk of metal. The Axiom+ is the same thing with holes cut out. They're completely fine for a beginner, but for a bit more you can get something like the SF Premium or SF Forged, which is SF's mid-range gear which feels more balanced and responsive. The Excel is OK, though you may want to look at the Hoyt Horizon.
Is there any advantage of the Asian siyah limbs over a regular recurve. the siyahs gove the bow more reflex but add weights to the limb. At which draw weight does the advantage out weight the disadvantage?
no advanage over trad modern recurve . its like to compare a modern car and a bike
I have a question and I'm finally beginning to believe that there is no known answer. What are the pins called that go from the back of the riser into a washer in the front of the limb, to help stabilize it?...and what is the washer called?
The tiller bolts?
The "pegs" I referred to are on pins on the back of the riser that go into the limbs. They work in conjunction with the tiller bolts to keep the limbs straight.
so...it looks like a person can either buy fancy bow with fancy equipment or they can buy used car or several nice computers instead...
I mean, a great setup is under 1500, but you could go fairly checp and get a decent setup for 400 and under
Are solid fiberglass limbs acceptable on a first bow? I know they are around 10 fps slower than wooden limbs, but are there other differences aside speed? I bought the pse kingfisher instead of the samick sage and wonder if it is inferior to the sage. I want to target shoot and hunt with the bow. I actually really like it but never tried the sage.
if you have the opportunity, could you please make a video about uukha limbs? thnks.
Why they don't make pure carbon limbs? Is nt will be good?
Hi NU Sensei, I have bought my first riser after finishing with a beginner bow. I have gone for a reasonably expensive one, the W&W RCX-100 (25"), with the thought that I can upgrade the limbs as I improve. Are there any limbs you would recommend as a good early intermediate limb that will last me for a while.
Good choice of riser. For limbs, look at something like the SF Elite carbon limbs.
NUSensei thank you for the advice, much appreciated.
hey, how to pick the right limbs for recurve bow
Hi, could you pls recommend what limbs are compatible with hoyt dorado riser?
Very educational
Wow i just got addicted to you're videos, cant stop watching :D great info. i would like to know if it matters which limb goes where, you have a top one and a bottom one, if they are not marked does it matter where they go? And how can I find out which is the top one and which is the bottom one? I have the RAGIM wildcat wooden re-curve take-down bow :D
Honestly, it doesn't really matter, but some people like to be consistent.
ok, cool, Thanks for the answer :D
I have a quick question. Ive found there are 2 sets of limbs one with a wood core and one with foam core. Both have carbon exterior. Whats the major difference between the 2 cores if there is any? Is it just user preference?
Generally, people find that the wood core is smoother to draw, and the foam core has slightly more punch. It's a matter of preference.
NUSensei Thanks so much. I love your videos and they've been very helpful with being a newbie in this sport.
I got a 27 hpx riser Hoyt with 28 pound Quattro carbon hoyt. If I decide to go to 30 pound limbs with shorts with wood for $ saving, would that be okay?
There's nothing wrong with this combination.
Thank you
Just out of curiosity what about limbs that are carbon with a wood core? I've noticed a few of those floating around
What makes limbs inefficient is that they accelerate, so less energy goes to the arrow. Thus lighter limbs are more efficient. Compare their weights to carbon+foam and fiberglass+wood and you should get an idea of how efficient they are.
How about fiberglass/graphite foam limbs compared to finberglass/wood limbs? Like these Kaya Tomcats. (Not the Carbon version.) www.archerytorque.com/image/data/ETC1/Tom-Layer.jpg
Would you prefer to have:
Top end limbs on a low end riser
OR
Low end limbs on a top end riser ?
Low end limbs on a top end riser. Limbs are easily upgradeable. Risers tend to stay with you for much longer, and can be the bottleneck.
Thank you for your reply.
I was about to do the opposite: buying w&w ex power limbs to fit on my old hoyt eclipse.
Well.. I need more money xD
this really helps me thank you sensei
Hey NUsensei love the videos they have been really helpful. I am looking into new limbs on my bow and I found these SF elite fibre/foam limbs however I cant seem to find any reviews on them on what people thought so if you know anything at all about them please let me know. The price on them is about £100 so for that seems quite reasonable, any advice would be appreciated.
They're solid limbs. Good price and value.
NUSensei thanks for that
Nu, I was wondering how you felt about the kaya limbs in this video? My archery focus is more traditional 3D/hunting than fita target. Are those a consistent set with good value at their price point? Is there another option in the same range that is vastly superior? Thank you for your time, sir.
HALF CALKT A good pair of limbs for hunting is tradtech
Could you use two different brands of limbs (with the same poundage) at the same time or no because they could have different materials in them? FYI I'm talking about ILF limbs.
Technically you can, but different brands are made differently (different materials, different layers, different shapes, different thicknesses), so your limbs will perform unevenly. This can make consistency and tuning a nightmare. I suppose it's possible as a stopgap measure, but I would replace a limb rather than use two different limbs.
love your vids on archery,
Me and my brother in law finished a beginners course at Sydney Olympic park.
I want to know which recurve is best, i want a martin saber because it has a good reviews, but he want to buy an individual riser and limbs.
Whats the best way of choosing? im going for small hunts/target and he wants target shooting.
We are going to abbeys this weekend to purchase our bows.
Our DL is 28 and our DW is 35.
Thanks
You're both on the right track. The Martin Saber is a hunting bow and is good enough for that purpose. However, it's not made for consistency at longer distances, which is what your brother wants for target shooting. If he's taking it up as a sport, I would recommend a target takedown bow. See my video on Hunting vs Target bows, and Clarifying Target Archery.
NUSensei Thank you for a quick reply, I am going to order it online.
Do you recommend Archery Mart?
i had 24lb before, now i upgraded to 30lb, but theres a problem after i change limb
my set became rattly and vibrating so much, everything is tight and doesnt rattle woth the 24 lb limb what do you think is causing it?
my older limb is sf axiom 24, new one is mybo synergy 30lb
Hi
If i have to choose between wood/carbon or foam/fiber. Which one should i get?
indbeegee It's usually a matter of preference. Wood/carbon is generally smoother to draw, while foam and fiberglass is punchier and louder. At the expensive end, the differences aren't as great.
NUSensei THX for the answer.
I have found the foam to be much more stable, particularly in a wide range of temperatures.
Love your videos!
what is the difference between a glass fiber limb and carbon limb,like the speed and durability
Carbon limbs tend to be faster, but can be a little stiffer to draw. Fiberglass limbs aren't usually used in bows - mostly, they're wood core with fiberglass laminate, and generally those are gentler in draw-force curve, but tend to be a little slower and less consistent, especially in varying weather conditions. Plain fiberglass limbs (such as in youth bows) don't offer much in consistency and performance compared to more advanced materials, but can get the job done at short distances.
+NUSensei which limbs will you recommand (the ones in the shops seem to only have wood core)
Both are good.
NUSensei then i shall buy the cheaper one,and thank you u were alot of help
Is it okay to have one wood limb and one carbon limb. I know you talked about it in the video but I wasn't sure if you were talking about mixing brands and mixing materials or if it was just missing brands.
RandomVideos4U You really should be using limbs from the same set. The differences in materials and construction will cause too much variation to work with, especially when it comes to fine tuning.
okay, thanks
Can I use a 40lb limbs on my old 20 lb wood risor?
Likely, yes. The riser itself isn't rated for particular weights, so long as the limb fits.
I have a take-down recurve. It's tuned to my satisfaction. Is there any way to disassemble it and keep the string from unwinding and changing the brace height etc. (I love your RUclips vids!)
Thread the string through its own loop. That should stop it from unwinding.
NUSensei
Many thanks! I feel stupid for not thinking of it, but I really appreciate the info. Great idea, your videos are awesome. Very helpful!
Why are limbs marked top and bottom? What diff? What if you put them on wrong? Will it shoot differently? Thanx Mickey in South Africa.
The limbs are actually slightly different. The curvature and weight is slightly offset in order to maintain the correct tiller.
Hey NuSensei, have you had any experience with Samick Nighthawk/Lighting Takedown recurve? I am torn between this and a Bearpaw Penthalon Navajo. Do you have any advice regarding this?
Thank you
Vccine I haven't used any of those bows.
Hi - Been shooting about a year and using Kaya K1 limbs, and wanting to upgrade. Using 36# which is fine, but looking at carbon upgrades, there is such a massive price difference, so unsure what is the best route. Kaya K3 carbon seem reasonably priced, but is it worth spending a bit more on some W&W or hoyte limbs, or are you just paying for the name?
I just want to avoid trying to find the cheapest carbon limbs, and then wishing I had paid more - i look forward to your reply
Jez Turner Generally speaking, the higher-end limbs will have a gentler, more linear draw curve - meaning that they will be smoother to draw and stack less. If you're aiming for competition gear, they would be desirable. If you're only aiming for something that you feel comfortable shooting, and within your budget, the K3 is fine for what it does.
where do you get the white win&win recurve limbs?
They only come in one colour. The W&W Inno CXT series is white on the front and black on the back.