Retirement and a new workshop plan!
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2022
- Yep finally managed to hang up my spurs. Now looking forward to making a new workshop. I want to consolidate all my workshop machines and tools into one shop.
This is the intro to the series join me as I get stuff wrong.
Cheers 
Хобби
I'm not a civil engineer, but I have commissioned a fair few machine tools in buildings that were far from ideal. A 6" reinforced slab should give you a generous safety margin as long as it's properly specified and laid (RC25/30 concrete or better, level and compacted sub-base free of compressible material). It's the standard for industrial floors; Haas list it as the minimum floor specification in the pre-installation guide for nearly all of their machines, right up to the 16 tonne VF-14. Unless you're hoping for a retirement present that arrives on a flatbed and needs three-phase, you should be golden.
Thanks for the advice. Much as I would like a Haas flatbed to turn up access to the back of the house is so tight we would have to crane it over the roof. Not something I want to even think about. However I may go down the old iron route where I am far happier to take it apart and move it piece by piece.
Cheers
The guys are correct , 6 inch slab is great. Compact the hell out of the substrate. Just a thought, I know plaster board is cheaper on walls but my last shop we used cheap 1/2 inch ply and chip or wafer board. I was tired of patching the walls after bumping with various boards and materials while moving or turning such. Also you can hang stuff anywhere not just where studs are.
( yes I'm a bit clumsy)
Thanks Mike,
I know what you mean about plasterboard, it was only for the fire protection. If you have seen my welding you will know why!!!
Built many buildings in Canada. A 150mm slab is for a commercial shop. Or for heavy tools that have small contact areas to the floor. We have built many that are 100mm thick with a compacted granular base and not had any problems at all. Secondly. At least here in Canada you can use either fiber reinforced concrete or steel bar or steel grid mesh. But never all in the same slab. There are even crimped stainless wire additives that perform the same function. We have used fiberglass in place of any metal and had zero problems even back in 1989 when I had hair! Concrete is not cheap here, guessing it not cheap there either. A successful floor is more the substrate than anything else. Add more granular and compact it well. 150 to 200 mm is a great base and if it is compacted every 100mm layer and lightly watered as you compact it you will have a very robust floor. I built my last house 17 years ago. As a young man I built residential and commercial buildings near Ottawa Ontario, Canada. I'm in my early 50's and I grew up in a family that did this for a living. So at it since I was wet behind the ears. Love your channel. Don't waste money where it will not really have great benefit.
Mark
Thanks Mark some great advice here. I am keen to get this right as its nearly impossible to fix if its wrong. Interesting you dont use fiber and mesh in the same slab. I have no experience in this so the advice is so useful. We have chalk a couple of feet down so I am guessing should be pretty solid substrate.
Concrete is not cheap here either my problem is there is no access to the back of the property where the new shop is going may have to get labour in with barrows that will be aback breaking ten tons!!
Cheers
I'm sorry for your loss! I lost my Mother on July 18 and like you I'm finding it strangely difficult to be closing accounts and such, it's surreal realizing how other than family how little a person is missed.
I'm just getting back into my wood working shop after 2 yrs with surgeries and my Mom. Good Luck with your shop, enjoy your retirement!!!
Thanks dburd58 sorry to hear about your mother its a very difficult time. Good luck I find shop time a bit of therapy nothing to think about but the project.
My personal preference would be to stay away from OSB, i know its cheap and fast to install, but it ofgasses and if wet gets to it its done. My barn and workshop was clad with European Larch, expensive and difficult to source but fit and forget. Even spruce cladding would be a healthy option to osb. I hope everything works out and you enjoy your time in the workshop.
I get what you mean but the osb is buried in the walls. It’s also under a layer of breather membrane. But only time will tell, a hidden leak into a wall might cause major problems.
Cheers
Concrete thickness should be fine. You could consider GFRC (glass fibre reinforced concrete) but probably not required. You may want to skin the workshop with OSB on the inside as well - this can make it much easier to 'hang stuff' but obviously there is a cost involved. Look forward to the build.
Enjoy retirement! I retired early a few years ago and manage to spend my time now doing the things I want to....
Thanks Matt,
Slowly getting to grips with retirement, honestly I am so busy its ridiculous. I hope to get started on this new shop very soon as I really want to be done by the end of the year.
I am still in two minds about osb I used that in the summerhouse but am worried about fire risk in a shop.
Cheers
I'm prob a bit late here, but a large double garage has a 150mm concrete floor and holds 2 cars, that's close to 4 tons...
That 4 tons is concentrated onto 8 tyres! So, the thickness of 150 thickness seems ok to me!
However, I would put battens down at approx. 16" centres, and fill in the voids with 25mm Celotex or the like! Then board the whole floor! Then a layer of tough lino or similar!
Concrete is incredibly cold on your feet! Also, this method helps to spread the weight of your machinery!
I am a retired woodworker, but now have an interest in metal working! My workshop floor is wooden joists, this flexes, showing up on my DRO! Damned nuisance!
I will be putting a concrete floor in my new workshop, then applying the method above!
Frank...
Thanks Frank,
I am still sorting out the slab my next video should explain a bit more. Thanks for the slab info very useful.
Concrete is very cold agreed but I can't put battens down I am thinking of putting wheels on some of the kit so I can get it outside to avoid some of the chips ( woodworking kit).
I have some machinists mats that are really good at insulating your feet and they are more comfy to stand on.
Thanks for your comment the more info the more informed.
Cheers
@@CazualHaze You board the battens with plywood, or OSB... lol
Anyway, happy to help in the future is you require more advice!
Just bought a 4" precision vice for my mill from VEVOR.... incredible quality for only £68 quid including p&p!
As a novice I to may need advice, I bought a CNC machine 2 or 3 years ago, hardly used it as the software baffles me! It was an Xcarve 500x500 belt driven, wish i had waited and got a ball screw cnc! Anyway I was green at the time!
Will look forward to more vids and updates Hazey!
Frank...
Here in the USA nearly all concrete slabs are 4 inches / 100mm thick..2 / 3 car garages etc..if heavy machinery is to drive around like forklifts then 6 inches / 150mm slab is used..of course all slabs have footers / foundations dug under around the slab edges..
Thanks @Agent Covert turns out here in the UK if your new shed/ workshop is over 30m2 (322sq feet) it needs building regs ( code I think in the US). So I am stuck getting proper calculations on structure wind loading etc. Consequently I cannot get any further until this is done.
Thanks for the info it all good to know.
Cheers
@@CazualHaze that's unfortunate and timely..here in the States if its less then 150sft or considered portable such as built on wooden sled or legs like a deck would be built then zero permits necessary..the tax man only cares about concrete to charge tax on it basically your get a permit that then tips off the tax office to start charging more taxes each year etc..has nothing to do with safety but everything to do with tax revenue..