I wish I could just have one chance to work for a big name in a big shop. My eye for perfection and my ability to remember everything the first time... Man I could really do my kids proud. I've tinkered and made several things using tools. Polishing the pieces to a mirror finish. Fun times. I like watching your videos. Thank you.
Have to admit I have not ever seen a chamfer tool like that. I will now. Another really intresting tool. Anybody out there designing ther own work holding fixture's got alot of mileage out of some of the idea's in there. Thanks for stimulating some thought.
I made a set of height adjustable V-blocks, about 10 to 15 years ago, very similar to your design, as per, the center jack screw system.. I don't use them very often, but when I do, it was because I needed to, for the strange set-up. One thing I would like to add, I ended up cutting, what would be normally considered a snap ring groove in the bases center alignment hole for the jack screw's bushing, and the groove was a bit over sized, and deeper, all in efforts to receive an O-ring. The O-ring is merely just to dampen or prevent any rotation of the jack screw, which in turn, allowed for slight adjustment, which is typically in a downwards direction. I ended up doing that as the job before the O-ring modification, the one V-block had adjusted downwards, and the location where I could reach in to acquire my measurement, was on the other side from the sinking V-block... by the time I realized what was going on, that side's clamping system to hold the part in check, was loose... then SNAGGGGGGG.... 8 days worth of work was gone, I had to start all over. I never thought this could happen, due to the clamping pressure locking the entire system down, and never thought light machining would allow the adjustment jack screw to vibrate loose and in turn, allow the center section / V-block work area to lower.. Now I know, not to take that for granted, but, just thought I would mention that, to keep an eye out or put a small thought into adapting some form of friction or clasp type system to prevent the jack nut on yours from being allowed to rotate... Good luck. Nice looking adjustable V-blocks. Oh, and another thing I incorporated into mine, beings the job I originally needed to build them for, required them to hold a cylinder / bar and an angle / taper... The top landing surfaces are hardened dowels. So, that was tricky to get those cove landing areas to match on each side, for both units I made. and yes, if you turn them upside down, the dowels will fall out. Nothing holds them in place, other then the weight of themselves. But, the point of the dowels, is for holding work, at angles, as mentioned. I have found that a secure stop and the lower side of the pair of V-blocks, is a good idea, and I made a unit that is basically, a very simplified adjustable tailstock. It doesn't do any height adjustment, it only is for control in and out, to finely tune the position of where your part in in the V-blocks... basically, in the case I made for them, it is a 3 part tool system, plus the tools to adjust the clamping or tighten/loosen things... pain in the booty to set up, but always glad to have put the time in to build the kit, when I actually need it..
Tom, I continue to enjoy your hand finishing efforts the most. For someone who has the depth of machining experience to take the time and the enjoyment of the hand finish exhibits the difference between a machinist and a craftsman! Well played my friend.
Awesome video series! Please keep sharing your knowledge with the test of the machining community. Your angle block for chamfering corners on the surface grinder is borderline genius.
I'm coming here today after a day of fighting my tools (mostly software). I've always liked doing things with my hands, and listening to you somehow makes me wonder where I'll be in one, two or three decades, and whether I'll regret my career choices.
Fantastic job Tom. I learned a few new tricks on Surface Grinder setup and would REALLY like to see a video on that cool chamfer block you used. Stay safe and thanks for the series.. Fred
Hello Tom, I see the hand wheel to the intaglio press you built / are building for your wife in the background. Any chance of seeing the completion of that project on youtube?
I always can't wait to see your next contribution. You're the one I've learned the most from. Your main theme is precision through simple techniques. Thanks!
Another remarkable Ox Tool completed. Thanks Tom, it is always nice to watch your masterful treatments to every aspect of a project, you are in a class of your own, IMHO, cheers!
I've always rotated my parts from the true working plane when finish flat grinding to avoid any dishing from heat plus always rough ground all surfaces before finishing critical dimensions to minimize distortion affecting any previously ground faces. Also haven't seen a Taft-Pierce in a few years. Cheers.
Tom. What a great series. If you have any more projects you could share even better. Thanks for your time and effort putting these videos together. Cheers
Maybe a hollow dowel around the bolts to keep things lined up while tightening? You could still add them at this point. Keep videos coming, I learn something everyone of them.
Great project Tom they look great. I liked the chamfering setup you had on the surface grinder. I'd like to build a set for myself but I don't have access to a shop right now, maybe in the future.
To fix the locations of those pillars, tap them around for final position, drill/ream for a pair of taper pins; drive the pins (appropriately shortened) in to lock position (and make it repeatable). Put the pins in random locations to make sure that each pillar can only be fitted in its proper place. Blind holes are not a problem as you can pull off the pillars (or drive them off through the screw holes) exposing the skinny ends of the pins. This tap/tighten/pin technique was used in the WWII bombsights (Norden or Sperry, I forget) to finalize all positions of the mechanical gearing and shafting. (I hope the parts aren't too hard for this to work.)
Awesome work as always, Tom. The V-blocks turned out great! That surface grinder chamfering fixture is quite clever... I think I'll be cribbing that idea for use in my own shop. Cheers!
I always enjoy the stunt grinding! I like to leave at least .010" on a surface to clean up with the grinder. Too many times do I find holidays if I leave less.
Amazing blocks. Been watching the whole series. How about grinding them after the side posts are mounted? That would eliminate any offset when tightening the screws. I bet they would look amazing cold blued as well, together with that brass knob! Greetings from Sweden mr Tom.
Hey Tom, I have been watching your videos for several years and, been a subsciber for as long as I have been watching. At all the shops I have worked in use lots of dowel pins. So 2 pins and one 10-32 screw should do it. Do the base as a press fit and the up rights with an oversize reamer.
That would probably work well. Referencing the holes to the slot geometry might be interesting. Could be done with a simple fixture that used the pins to locate the part for grinding. Cheers, Tom
hey Tom. i am enjoying this series of videos. Ya kind of lost me for a year while you searched for perfection.. I hope you found what you were looking for.. Keep up the great videos
Tom, we’re coming up on 3 years since the “Composite Master Square” was started and went for heat treat; Did it ever come back?! Are we going to get a finish video or update?!
I loved this series enough to watch every video and never touched a mill in my life. I want to see you use these in the future. Could you not have just killed out a solid pocket in a rectangular block instead of making it in five pieces?
I like the SG version of the chamfermiester. What is the material? Stainless? With a steel bottom to stick to the magnet? allows the part to slide freely across.
Wonderful series of videos, but I have a question (not a criticism) why did you not machine the finger grips with the part the other way up. You would have had more surface area on the table and less chance of cutter hitting the table
Our surface grinder is rather large so couldn't do small features like this, BUT we do plenty of guide/slide rails, hardened and nitride coated. We do them ALL on our mills. Anything from 8mm up to 50mm wide.
A simpler design ; you could replace the 2 tapered "Jaws" with two 1/4" dowel pins press fit into the base and a sliding fit in the Vee's block. It's a lot less work but constrains the Vees from twisting and tilting.
There is a commercial set of adjustable v blocks that uses rods as you mention. I never liked the look of those particular blocks so I when with the strong shoulder look. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Those are awesome Tom. Can see where even just one would be very useful. I am curious if you'd be concerned with an accidental change in height being that they are so easy to adjust? And if so, how that could be prevented. Thanks!
@@oxtoolco Yeah, I've tried that, didn't end up working very well..... Ended up having to build the SOB a mother in law suite out back. He's a nightmare to work with, but I must say the dude knows how to party.
Nice looking work, tom. Thanks for bringing us along with you. Looking at it, it is a thing of beauty. I was curious if a little more color to the tool would make it even prettier. Now hear me out, something to offset the metals that are there and draw attention to each individual piece. The brass is a nice accent, I was curious if using something like oxpho-blue or case hardening type of coloration(like they do for old guns) to the outside pillars/guides might leave the craftsmanship visible but give each part its own distinct visual in the scheme of the tool, if you see what I mean. Grinding would take off the case hardening colors so that might not work. Is there any other coloring options that I could go for if I were to make a set?
Hi Tom, lLooking at the intro I'd say it's about time for a new shop tour. I seem to see some things missing or moved around behind you, like a welding table, a bunch of shelving, etc. Also, many episodes back you talked about using air cans instead of compressors but lately looks like you've switch to a compressor, what kind of compressor and is there any story behind the decision to change.
Would have it been too difficult to put scales on the v-blocks? Maybe the fit isn't quite close enough to do a vernier scale, but maybe a few .031's against a single line, just for a reference? I know you'd probably run an indicator across a shaft laying in the V's, but if you're cutting a key way into a piece, maybe it could save some time. (Really, what I'd like to see is the making of a vernier scale. I know how they work, but I've never had the opportunity to see one being made.) Keep up the good work! I really like your videos.
I like the new intro. The first time I heard it, I thought you were riffing on the OG A-Team narration. Thumbs up.
Thanks for the feedback. I wanted to change it for a while. I'm getting smoother with it now.
Cheers,
Tom
Pin the towers so they have to stay put when you tighten the screws. Excellent job. Love the education.
Lots of tricks in this series.
Thanks for your time to share this one.
I have the same Micromaster so that’s always fun.
I wish I could just have one chance to work for a big name in a big shop. My eye for perfection and my ability to remember everything the first time... Man I could really do my kids proud. I've tinkered and made several things using tools. Polishing the pieces to a mirror finish. Fun times. I like watching your videos. Thank you.
Have to admit I have not ever seen a chamfer tool like that. I will now. Another really intresting tool. Anybody out there designing ther own work holding fixture's got alot of mileage out of some of the idea's in there. Thanks for stimulating some thought.
I made a set of height adjustable V-blocks, about 10 to 15 years ago, very similar to your design, as per, the center jack screw system.. I don't use them very often, but when I do, it was because I needed to, for the strange set-up. One thing I would like to add, I ended up cutting, what would be normally considered a snap ring groove in the bases center alignment hole for the jack screw's bushing, and the groove was a bit over sized, and deeper, all in efforts to receive an O-ring. The O-ring is merely just to dampen or prevent any rotation of the jack screw, which in turn, allowed for slight adjustment, which is typically in a downwards direction. I ended up doing that as the job before the O-ring modification, the one V-block had adjusted downwards, and the location where I could reach in to acquire my measurement, was on the other side from the sinking V-block... by the time I realized what was going on, that side's clamping system to hold the part in check, was loose... then SNAGGGGGGG.... 8 days worth of work was gone, I had to start all over. I never thought this could happen, due to the clamping pressure locking the entire system down, and never thought light machining would allow the adjustment jack screw to vibrate loose and in turn, allow the center section / V-block work area to lower.. Now I know, not to take that for granted, but, just thought I would mention that, to keep an eye out or put a small thought into adapting some form of friction or clasp type system to prevent the jack nut on yours from being allowed to rotate... Good luck. Nice looking adjustable V-blocks.
Oh, and another thing I incorporated into mine, beings the job I originally needed to build them for, required them to hold a cylinder / bar and an angle / taper... The top landing surfaces are hardened dowels. So, that was tricky to get those cove landing areas to match on each side, for both units I made. and yes, if you turn them upside down, the dowels will fall out. Nothing holds them in place, other then the weight of themselves. But, the point of the dowels, is for holding work, at angles, as mentioned. I have found that a secure stop and the lower side of the pair of V-blocks, is a good idea, and I made a unit that is basically, a very simplified adjustable tailstock. It doesn't do any height adjustment, it only is for control in and out, to finely tune the position of where your part in in the V-blocks... basically, in the case I made for them, it is a 3 part tool system, plus the tools to adjust the clamping or tighten/loosen things... pain in the booty to set up, but always glad to have put the time in to build the kit, when I actually need it..
Its nice to see that some people still appreciate beautifully designed tools.
I think they look great, nice work Tom! Nice chamfer block on the grinder too. love the longer format.
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin. That means a lot coming from the uber super duper fuss master of the universe.
Talk to you soon.
Tom
@@oxtoolco Stop drinking the coolaid :-)
I thoroughly enjoyed this series, thanks heaps Tom.
“Sweet chamfers, and the intersect nice in the corners”. I agree. And love that little chamfer jig.
Well done Tom, like a couple of other commentators I would like a better look at the chamfering block you used on the surface grinder.
They came out beautifully - thanks Tom for taking us on the ride. Joel
Tom, I continue to enjoy your hand finishing efforts the most. For someone who has the depth of machining experience to take the time and the enjoyment of the hand finish exhibits the difference between a machinist and a craftsman! Well played my friend.
That’s for sharing Tom. I’d love to see a closer view of the chamfer grinding jig. It’s awesome
Beautiful work Tom. Art.
Tom, you never cease to amaze me on your quality and workmanship. Nice job!!!!!
Awesome video series! Please keep sharing your knowledge with the test of the machining community. Your angle block for chamfering corners on the surface grinder is borderline genius.
All that’s missing on those beauties is a makers mark!
Not only a great serie of built videos, also learnd a lot. Thank you for sharing your experience
I'm pretty confident I now require a surface grinder! Awesome fun project!
I'm coming here today after a day of fighting my tools (mostly software). I've always liked doing things with my hands, and listening to you somehow makes me wonder where I'll be in one, two or three decades, and whether I'll regret my career choices.
Fantastic job Tom. I learned a few new tricks on Surface Grinder setup and would REALLY like to see a video on that cool chamfer block you used. Stay safe and thanks for the series.. Fred
beautiful work Tom
Hello Tom, I see the hand wheel to the intaglio press you built / are building for your wife in the background. Any chance of seeing the completion of that project on youtube?
He doesn't want to talk about the etching press.
@@xenonramOH OH Im in the Bad books with Mr Lipton i just sent him an email asking about the Press. Was BOZOISH OF ME LOL
I always can't wait to see your next contribution. You're the one I've learned the most from. Your main theme is precision through simple techniques. Thanks!
Another remarkable Ox Tool completed. Thanks Tom, it is always nice to watch your masterful treatments to every aspect of a project, you are in a class of your own, IMHO, cheers!
I've always rotated my parts from the true working plane when finish flat grinding to avoid any dishing from heat plus always rough ground all surfaces before finishing critical dimensions to minimize distortion affecting any previously ground faces. Also haven't seen a Taft-Pierce in a few years. Cheers.
Great job Tom, thanks for sharing
They look awesome. Great job Tom. Please more of these videos.
Hi Tom,
An enjoyable video... When i was an apprentice (many moons ago) i really liked surface grinding...
Take care
Paul,,
Tom, those turned out like jewelry. Beautiful work. I appreciate you sharing it with us.
Magnificent as always.
Eric
Super! Thanks for showing how you heat treated the parts!
Tom. What a great series. If you have any more projects you could share even better. Thanks for your time and effort putting these videos together. Cheers
great project! Really enjoyed this series.
Beautiful work truly a master of your craft
I like that tilting head grinder, that is a rare bird I have not seen one, I like those V blocks thank you.
Form, function, utility, and pleasant to look at.
Thanks for all the work and the video. Just an fyi. I like the surface grinding videos as I need that instruction. Thanks.
Maybe a hollow dowel around the bolts to keep things lined up while tightening? You could still add them at this point. Keep videos coming, I learn something everyone of them.
Awesome seeing those finished up Tom! Great work . Thank you very much!
Another beautiful Lipton tool.
Really impressive, you're fairly entertaining and I learn at the same time.
Great project, thanks for sharing
Great project Tom they look great. I liked the chamfering setup you had on the surface grinder. I'd like to build a set for myself but I don't have access to a shop right now, maybe in the future.
Tom, they came out fantastic... i will definately put one in the " to do " que thanks ! Joe
To fix the locations of those pillars, tap them around for final position, drill/ream for a pair of taper pins; drive the pins (appropriately shortened) in to lock position (and make it repeatable). Put the pins in random locations to make sure that each pillar can only be fitted in its proper place. Blind holes are not a problem as you can pull off the pillars (or drive them off through the screw holes) exposing the skinny ends of the pins.
This tap/tighten/pin technique was used in the WWII bombsights (Norden or Sperry, I forget) to finalize all positions of the mechanical gearing and shafting. (I hope the parts aren't too hard for this to work.)
Nice project.
Thanks for the video.
Awesome work as always, Tom. The V-blocks turned out great! That surface grinder chamfering fixture is quite clever... I think I'll be cribbing that idea for use in my own shop. Cheers!
Beautiful Tom. Thinking about a set for myself. Thanks for the footage.
I always enjoy the stunt grinding! I like to leave at least .010" on a surface to clean up with the grinder. Too many times do I find holidays if I leave less.
Absolutely amazing craftsmanship Tom. Rock on 🤘🏻
Mighty fine work.
Awesome and elegant project.
Lovely work of precision art!
very good video..thanks for your time
Nice adjustable vee blocks
Beautiful work, MASTER, hello from Spain.
Very cool project and very informative for me, thanks Tom!
Great, now looking forward to seeing the completion of the Printing Press 🤓
Fantastic Work!!!
Amazing blocks. Been watching the whole series.
How about grinding them after the side posts are mounted? That would eliminate any offset when tightening the screws. I bet they would look amazing cold blued as well, together with that brass knob! Greetings from Sweden mr Tom.
Beautiful work Tom. 👍
Perhaps you could use 2 small alignment pins and a single bolt to get the risers set perfectly. Very cool project, thanks for the videos!
GREAT SERIES !!!
Really great series!
Hey Tom, I have been watching your videos for several years and, been a subsciber for as long as I have been watching. At all the shops I have worked in use lots of dowel pins. So 2 pins and one 10-32 screw should do it. Do the base as a press fit and the up rights with an oversize reamer.
That would probably work well. Referencing the holes to the slot geometry might be interesting. Could be done with a simple fixture that used the pins to locate the part for grinding. Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco - see my comment on using taper pins for location.
hey Tom. i am enjoying this series of videos. Ya kind of lost me for a year while you searched for perfection.. I hope you found what you were looking for.. Keep up the great videos
You must be new... lol
As always outstanding work to the highest standard. Love it!
Really nice work Tom.
I'm still here after all these years.
The super nerd fuss master is generally accompanied by Mr. Bozo in my shop, hahaha! Thanks for the series Tom! Take care bud.
Tom, we’re coming up on 3 years since the “Composite Master Square” was started and went for heat treat; Did it ever come back?! Are we going to get a finish video or update?!
Samuel Taylor I think it has to spend time in the oven to soak all the way through.
Love these. Awesome work Tom!!
👍👍
full fat series , thanks tom (overseas student)
Tom nice work I would love to make a pair thanks for sharing so great👌
I have to make me one of those chamfer tools! Is that a homemade effort Tom?
It is a nice chamfer jig for the surface grinder. Robin Renzetti also has a sweet one, but it is portable.
Me too.
SampleText Tom has the same unit, the chamfer-mistier. Robins is home made from a belt grinder.
Enjoyed everything really enjoy your videos thanks .
51:26 Boy can I relate. I write stuff "like eggs on stove 12 min to boiling" or "paper towels, cat food, ranch dressing"
My thought for how you could align the sides better would be two pins where the current bolts are, then just a single center bolt each.
Nice work Tom, that coolant gets messy though anyone suggest a FIX???
I loved this series enough to watch every video and never touched a mill in my life. I want to see you use these in the future. Could you not have just killed out a solid pocket in a rectangular block instead of making it in five pieces?
Very very nice. I am already subed so I cannot reward you for the excellent work. Say uh you maybe want me to keep those safe for you?
I like the SG version of the chamfermiester. What is the material? Stainless? With a steel bottom to stick to the magnet? allows the part to slide freely across.
Wonderful series of videos, but I have a question (not a criticism) why did you not machine the finger grips with the part the other way up. You would have had more surface area on the table and less chance of cutter hitting the table
Uh. Cause I didn't think of that. Great idea! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco 😂
Hi, really enjoyed the project but don’t have a surface grinder, only a mill and a lathe. Very inspirational though. Thanks
Our surface grinder is rather large so couldn't do small features like this, BUT we do plenty of guide/slide rails, hardened and nitride coated. We do them ALL on our mills. Anything from 8mm up to 50mm wide.
Thanks for sharing ,Tom!
Absolutely gorgeous tooling! Thanks for taking the time to document it. What is the finishing paper you used on the surface table?
Norton black ice adhesive back paper. I like it but its kinda expensive and only three inches wide. McMaster has it.
Cheers,
Tom
Awesome project Tom, would love to make a set but don't have the equipment where I work..
A simpler design ; you could replace the 2 tapered "Jaws" with two 1/4" dowel pins press fit into the base and a sliding fit in the Vee's block. It's a lot less work but constrains the Vees from twisting and tilting.
There is a commercial set of adjustable v blocks that uses rods as you mention. I never liked the look of those particular blocks so I when with the strong shoulder look. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Those are awesome Tom. Can see where even just one would be very useful. I am curious if you'd be concerned with an accidental change in height being that they are so easy to adjust? And if so, how that could be prevented. Thanks!
I guess when the workpiece is clamped for machining, frictional restraint on the brass nut faces/threads should hold everything??
Keep Mr Bozo out of the shop would be my first priority for dealing with accidental movement.
Cheers,
Tom
@@oxtoolco Yeah, I've tried that, didn't end up working very well..... Ended up having to build the SOB a mother in law suite out back. He's a nightmare to work with, but I must say the dude knows how to party.
Thank You Tom....I was wondering. Are they interchangeable ?
Great stuff Tom, thanks! Cheers, Doug
Nice looking work, tom. Thanks for bringing us along with you.
Looking at it, it is a thing of beauty. I was curious if a little more color to the tool would make it even prettier. Now hear me out, something to offset the metals that are there and draw attention to each individual piece. The brass is a nice accent, I was curious if using something like oxpho-blue or case hardening type of coloration(like they do for old guns) to the outside pillars/guides might leave the craftsmanship visible but give each part its own distinct visual in the scheme of the tool, if you see what I mean. Grinding would take off the case hardening colors so that might not work. Is there any other coloring options that I could go for if I were to make a set?
Tom
Have u ever drove the nitwitz freeway to bezerkly?
my first visit...Today! First to LIKE IT👍
Thanks for the comment and like!
Cheers,
Tom
What a beauty!
Hi Tom, thanks as always. Please show us your chamfer block that you used on your grinder, never seen that on your channel before
Regards from RSA
Hi Tom, lLooking at the intro I'd say it's about time for a new shop tour. I seem to see some things missing or moved around behind you, like a welding table, a bunch of shelving, etc. Also, many episodes back you talked about using air cans instead of compressors but lately looks like you've switch to a compressor, what kind of compressor and is there any story behind the decision to change.
Would have it been too difficult to put scales on the v-blocks? Maybe the fit isn't quite close enough to do a vernier scale, but maybe a few .031's against a single line, just for a reference? I know you'd probably run an indicator across a shaft laying in the V's, but if you're cutting a key way into a piece, maybe it could save some time. (Really, what I'd like to see is the making of a vernier scale. I know how they work, but I've never had the opportunity to see one being made.) Keep up the good work! I really like your videos.
Beautiful.