That was a neat trick with the second nut to clear away the burr on the end. Ain't no substitute for experience Gordon! Little tricks like that can save so much time and hassle that's for sure!
this guy gives some good advice !!! Especially on how he gave the knowledge of how to use two nuts before you cut the threads so that you can clean the thread once cut !!! Good man ! thumbs up
Thanks Gordon I've been driving for 10 years and imma be buying first truck next week and you're videos will be a big money saver!!!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
You gotta admire the old timer's vernier caliper precision measuring 12:15 , a screwdriver and a thumb, no disrespect intended, these truckers never break down, know their stuff and thats why we owe them a great debt, they keep the economy going rain or shine. Hat off to you mate, from the UK
Its 20 to midnight here in the UK, I'm pleasantly surprised to receive your 'Thank you for watching' message. Thank you for taking the time to send me the message. It was my third vid watching you change brake shoes. All the best. Kind regards from Reading, Berkshire UK
I use damaged aluminum car rims or old steel rims as safety stands. They don't tip, they don't crush, and they work on sand and earth. Thousands of vehicles in salvage yards are stored on old rims. Some 4x4 blocks come in handy too. I gave away my jack stands long ago.
I would love to see a video on were you take the slack adjusters apart and clean them then put them back together because mine doesn't seem to work properly anymore and they're kind of expensive as always thank you Gordon for another great video
I don't have an opportunity to do that now but if you mix me taking off the clevis on this video with the video I did on cleaning the slack adjuster ruclips.net/video/re9ls-LmBCo/видео.html you should be able to do it yourself.
Thank you kindly, Mr. Gordon Robertson DIY, for your great efforts, and for your time. I think the "Induction Innovation" tool is a great help for unscrewing such hard rusted nuts& bolts.
please, please put in the caging bolt to contain that spring in the chamber. if the chamber is rusted thru or you aren't sure what you are doing --- that spring could take your head off. when the park button is pulled, pop the plug on the end of the chamber. the key slot should be centered in the hole. if not, the spring is broken, the chamber needs to be replaced. when the park button is "in"and you hear air escaping around the chamber, the chamber needs to be replaced. have someone step on the brake pedal- if you hear air escaping, the pancake has a hole rubbed in it and the pancake needs to be replaced. incidentally the boss where the fittings screw in, if they are square be sure the new chamber has the same square boss'- they identify a long stroke chamber. you want the same on both ends of the same axel. if there is air leaking on the qrv- quick release valve- (the small one on the frame) it needs to be replaced.,
This guy is danger mouse. I was hoping he would throw one of the wheels under there to be safe but he put his life in the hands of a inadequate 3 ton trolley jack and a bottle jack on a rounded surface.
First name,you are right. Way back in the early 1980s I was changing the diaphragm on one of those chambers.I had the caging bolt installed properly,but the end of the chamber broke allowing the spring to take off at great speed.Spring traveled about 35 feet hit the door of the shop and put a dent in the door.After that I would not change the diaphragm any more just replace the cylinder.
Please exercise extreme care handling these brake/spring chambers. When I served in the military, I heard stories from the mechanics where that spring can travel with great speed and violence up to a quarter mile away or more. Imagine what damage one could sustain from it.
Thanks for watching. Yes if you want to donate, there's a PayPal link on the home page on the lower right corner of the home page picture. I don't know if it shows on a phone or not but it shows on a computer.
Can’t stop thinking of the carnage that can could cause in between his legs!! Highly unlikely but anytime I’m working on or around the cans all I can think of is the people unscrewing the clamps and taking them out!!!
EXACTLEY CORRECT , THERE HAVE BEEN PEOPLE BADLY INJURED WHILE WORKING AROUND , THE BRAKE PODS , NOT KNOWING WHAT THEY WERE DOING , ESPECICIALLY TRYING TO TAKE ONE APART WITH OUT THE PROPER EQUIPTMENT THAT SPRING NEEDS TO BE COMPRESSED AND UNCOMPRESSED WITH THE PROPER APARATUSE , ALWAYS , ALWAYS SAFTEY FIRST , I'M SURE I'M NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DIDN'T ALREADY KNOW ,. THAT WAS ONE OF THE THINGS THEY TAUGHT US IN TRUCK DRIVEING SCHOOL SOME 45 YEARS AGO NOW , ONE OTHER THING I WANTED TO MENTION BEFORE I GO , JUST CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISIZM , DON'T HAVE A FIT OVER IT , BUT MAN OH MAN I WISH YOU COULD INVEST IN A STEAM CLEANER , OR , A PREASURE WASHER , TIS SO MUCH NICER TO WORK ON A CLEAN VEHICLE ,AND HELPS YOU STAY SOME WHAT CLEANER , A CREEPER KEEPS YOU UP OFF THE GROUND ALSO , AND YES I'M AWARE OF THE FACT THAT IT DOESN'T MAKE IT GO ANY FASTER , LIKE I SAID , I'M PROBABLEY NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DON'T ALREADY KNOW OR HAVEN'T CONSIDERED ,, WHERE I LIVED THEY HAD A SWIVEL PIPE WITH A HOSE ATTACHED TO THE END OF IT AT THE CAR WASH , THE SAME AS THE ONES IN THE CAR WASH BAYS BUT WAS HIGH ENOUGH THAT YOU COULD DRIVE A TRACTOR UNDERNEATH , AN OPEN OUTSIDE AREA AT THE END OF THE CAR WASH BUILDING , WHEN I WAS IN TOWN COMEING HOME FROM A LONG HAUL , I WOULD GO THERE AND FOR $10.00 DOLLARS IN CHANGE I COULD SOAP THE TRACTOR DOWN AND RINSE IT OFF , IT HAD HOT AND COLD WATER SUPPLY YOU JUST HAD TO SET THE DIAL TO YOUR CHOICE WHILE CLEANING , PLUS USE THEIR VACUM IF I DIDN'T USE MY OWN . THANKS FOR TAKEING THE TIME TO TEACH OTHER'S,,,,,,,,,,,,, KEEP THE SHINEY SIDE UP AND THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN , KEEP TRUCKIN OLD BUDDY GORD , MAY THE GOOD LORD RIDE WITH YOU ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Nice video, question why did you check how far out cleave was out from face of 30/30 I check from inside just in case that spring was bad . then made a tool that goes into one side of chamber to supply air to compress the other end so can put the Jesus bolt in , and turn were the air lines hook up . Thank you for the part about the fegure 8 part were it mounts
I don't do enough of them to know all of the tricks, you can always measure the rods on the other chambers if you want before cutting, they don't need to be exact anyway, within 1/2 an inch is good, as long as you have about 90* when the brake is applied. Thanks for watching.
I am a first time owner of a semi. It is an 07 Mack. I had the frame extended and a dump body added to haul grains and feed for local farms here where I live in NY. Your videos will be a big help to me. The Mack has parking brakes on only one axle. Is that typical? How complicated would it be to change the other drive axle to have parking brake too?
I haven't done that before but I wouldn't be afraid to do it, you would need to change the valve that sends air to the parking brake to release it, unless the original valve has 2 more ports that are capped off, or maybe you can put a couple of "Ts" in the valve to add 2 more air lines and just replace the "30s" with "30-30s" or whatever type of parking brakes you have on the back.
Yes it is typical when pulling trailers, trailers have 4 parking brakes, the bobtail doesn't need 4 but if you're putting a dump bed on then you definitely need 4 parking brakes on your truck.
They are called "Maxi Brakes"(dual axle parking brakes). Service brake relay is usually a 4-port R6 relay valve and the air lines go in the front ports of the brake chambers. Parking brakes are usually a 4-port R12 relay valve and the lines go in the the back port of a 30/30 brake chamber. Follow the lines coming out of the back port of your brake chambers to the park brake relay valve. If the lines are color coded --- Green = Service brakes Red = Park brakes. It should have pipe plugs in the other two ports of the park brake relay. You'll need two lines and two 30/30 chambers($100-$125 if you find the chambers on sale). Look for the "caging bolts" (t-bolts) needed for installation on the bottom of the new chambers. New chambers don't usually come "caged" for safety reasons during shipping.
I’m an owner operator just want to say thank you very much for your videos saved me several times.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
That was a neat trick with the second nut to clear away the burr on the end. Ain't no substitute for experience Gordon! Little tricks like that can save so much time and hassle that's for sure!
Thanks Andrew.
Thank you for going threw the trouble to show us
I sincerely thank you for your videos, sir. They have helped my OO journey tremendously.
Thank you sir.
this guy gives some good advice !!! Especially on how he gave the knowledge of how to use two nuts before you cut the threads so that you can clean the thread once cut !!! Good man ! thumbs up
Thanks for watching Carlos.
thumbs up for the camera setup!
Thank you Sir.
Thanks Gordon I've been driving for 10 years and imma be buying first truck next week and you're videos will be a big money saver!!!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
Thanks Dennis; I hope some of the videos will come in handy. Also see my playlists, I have many DIY repair videos on several subjects besides trucks.
You gotta admire the old timer's vernier caliper precision measuring 12:15 , a screwdriver and a thumb, no disrespect intended, these truckers never break down, know their stuff and thats why we owe them a great debt, they keep the economy going rain or shine. Hat off to you mate, from the UK
Thanks for watching.
Its 20 to midnight here in the UK, I'm pleasantly surprised to receive your 'Thank you for watching' message. Thank you for taking the time to send me the message. It was my third vid watching you change brake shoes. All the best. Kind regards from Reading, Berkshire UK
I enjoy watching ur videos and learning. I have a bus with airbrakes and find ur videos easy to follow, thanks
real world application always is different than a perfect shop environment
Yes Sir.
Try being a field tech. It's never perfect, but there's way to and not to do things.
Yup did my first brake chamber as a mobile tech. Really have to think on your feet. Doing one tomorrow so getting a refresher
There is no such thing as a perfect shop environment.
Thanks for all your hard work!
Thanks for watching.
You sir are a god send, thanks for the videos.
Air up the spring side or cage it or back off the slack until it floats. Then pull your pins. Been doing these for 42 years
I love spring time when you hear the bird singing away in the trees!
GODAMMIT!!...PAY ATTENTION!!!
I've learned more from your videos than what I learned in classes
Thank you Sir, and thanks for subbing.
Great video. Finally a man with the knowledge to teach us about semi's; your apprentice greatly appreciates.
Thank you Sir.
Thank you for the sacrifice!! Be blessed!!
Thank you Sir.
You can use a cage bolt to run the rod in and won't have to worry about air pressure.
Thanks was looking for that info
I use damaged aluminum car rims or old steel rims as safety stands. They don't tip, they don't crush, and they work on sand and earth. Thousands of vehicles in salvage yards are stored on old rims. Some 4x4 blocks come in handy too. I gave away my jack stands long ago.
Another very informative video, thank You.
Excellent video, nice description. Thk u.
It's tight the whole way because you still have pressure on the s cam, so every time you turn the nut the chamber arm extends with it.
Thanks alot. You saved this commercial beekeeper.
Thanks for showing your videos Keep it up PLEASE!!!! I am learning a Lot THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for watching.
Great video bro.
Hi Gordon looks like you need to rotate top can so the airlines are like they were before. great video
You're right, I could have done that but since it fit, I was lazy after fighting with the clevis.
@@57bagre unfortunately for me thats the only part i came onto utube to learn,the rest i can do just not sure about rotating can so hose slots line up
@@michaelo2522 just put a caging bolt in and loosen the clamp and rotate the housing to where you want it
@@57bagre ok thanks I'm halfway done
Thankyou I learned more hear than anywhere
Thank you for the helpful information.
Good wark 👍👍
That was excellent information, thank you very much
I would love to see a video on were you take the slack adjusters apart and clean them then put them back together because mine doesn't seem to work properly anymore and they're kind of expensive as always thank you Gordon for another great video
$140 is cheap compared to brakes not working
jbohler hahaha I guess so
I don't have an opportunity to do that now but if you mix me taking off the clevis on this video with the video I did on cleaning the slack adjuster ruclips.net/video/re9ls-LmBCo/видео.html you should be able to do it yourself.
? Heavy Truck ! PLEASE break
down and buy "slacks". There
BREAKS, einstein.
Sincerely, NAWALT.
Thank you kindly, Mr. Gordon Robertson DIY, for your great efforts, and for your time. I think the "Induction Innovation" tool is a great help for unscrewing such hard rusted nuts& bolts.
I just bought one but have not had a chance to try it out. Thanks for watching.
Very good detailed instructions.
Just me doing it my way, I did other ones a little different. Thanks.
Great video
thank you for your video, very helpful, very good explain.
thanks, taking my air brakes endorsement on the weekend. Need as much info as I can get.
good luck!
You are so helpful!!
Thanks a lot Gordon, I’m new on this business, and I’m learning a lot from you...🤙🏾
Thanks for watching.
please, please put in the caging bolt to contain that spring in the chamber. if the chamber is rusted thru or you aren't sure what you are doing --- that spring could take your head off. when the park button is pulled, pop the plug on the end of the chamber. the key slot should be centered in the hole. if not, the spring is broken, the chamber needs to be replaced. when the park button is "in"and you hear air escaping around the chamber, the chamber needs to be replaced. have someone step on the brake pedal- if you hear air escaping, the pancake has a hole rubbed in it and the pancake needs to be replaced. incidentally the boss where the fittings screw in, if they are square be sure the new chamber has the same square boss'- they identify a long stroke chamber. you want the same on both ends of the same axel. if there is air leaking on the qrv- quick release valve- (the small one on the frame) it needs to be replaced.,
This guy is danger mouse. I was hoping he would throw one of the wheels under there to be safe but he put his life in the hands of a inadequate 3 ton trolley jack and a bottle jack on a rounded surface.
First name,you are right. Way back in the early 1980s I was changing the diaphragm on one of those chambers.I had the caging bolt installed properly,but the end of the chamber broke allowing the spring to take off at great speed.Spring traveled about 35 feet hit the door of the shop and put a dent in the door.After that I would not change the diaphragm any more just replace the cylinder.
First Name, johnm, and charles. Put a video up on how you all do it.
Newer parking brake cylinders usually sealed units,must be replaced if they leak.I retired in 2005,do not work on much of anything anymore.
thanks
quite the camera setup, awesome video as always
Thank you Sir, I haven't seen you in a while.
no problem! been around just watching lately though
Thank you for the help and your videos
Thumbs up for the "foot by square eye" measurement device!
Thanks for watching.
Release your brakes and pull the pins and it'll be a lot easier to unbolt.
Yes I agree .
Please exercise extreme care handling these brake/spring chambers. When I served in the military, I heard stories from the mechanics where that spring can travel with great speed and violence up to a quarter mile away or more. Imagine what damage one could sustain from it.
Theres a new cageing bolt supplied with every new brake chamber. The spring can be compressed with the bolt.
The spring is very violent for sure.
Appreciate the video, Gordon.
Thanks for watching.
great video!! u make it look so easy!
Thank you Sir.
Good work my brother God bles you
Thanks for watching.
Old school way love it.
Thanks.
awesome video man!
thank you!
How do you go about getting the fitting back into the hose if the fittings came out
You should secure underneath buddy it's dangerous down there you should put a rim under the breakdrum
What a wealth of knowledge. Can we donate?
Thanks for watching. Yes if you want to donate, there's a PayPal link on the home page on the lower right corner of the home page picture. I don't know if it shows on a phone or not but it shows on a computer.
thank you sir. and God bless you always.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you Awesome.
2:19 turned off camera to swear a whole bunch then turned back on to continued recording.
As far as I know...Gordon does not curse
That needs to happen sometimes to relieve some tension lol. He a good man though!
Thanks so much!!!!!
Good stuff brother! Keep em coming! I just subscribed
Thank you Sir.
Thank you
Thanks for the vid, I have a leaky brake chamber I have to replace soon.
If the housing is not rusted, you can change only the pancake faster. Thanks for watching.
Gordon Robertson, awesome thanks for the info.
I always buy the brake chamber with the welded clevis that way I dont have to cut the shaft, makes the job a lot faster
very informative thank you
Thank you sir.
Jackstands, timbers or put a wheel back on, THEN you can get under there.
If you use anti-seize on pins and threaded fasteners you won't have to fight them next time.
Can’t stop thinking of the carnage that can could cause in between his legs!! Highly unlikely but anytime I’m working on or around the cans all I can think of is the people unscrewing the clamps and taking them out!!!
Thanks for the video and the insight
Thanks for watching.
EXACTLEY CORRECT , THERE HAVE BEEN PEOPLE BADLY INJURED WHILE WORKING AROUND , THE BRAKE PODS , NOT KNOWING WHAT THEY WERE DOING , ESPECICIALLY TRYING TO TAKE ONE APART WITH OUT THE PROPER EQUIPTMENT THAT SPRING NEEDS TO BE COMPRESSED AND UNCOMPRESSED WITH THE PROPER APARATUSE , ALWAYS , ALWAYS SAFTEY FIRST , I'M SURE I'M NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DIDN'T ALREADY KNOW ,. THAT WAS ONE OF THE THINGS THEY TAUGHT US IN TRUCK DRIVEING SCHOOL SOME 45 YEARS AGO NOW , ONE OTHER THING I WANTED TO MENTION BEFORE I GO , JUST CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISIZM , DON'T HAVE A FIT OVER IT , BUT MAN OH MAN I WISH YOU COULD INVEST IN A STEAM CLEANER , OR , A PREASURE WASHER , TIS SO MUCH NICER TO WORK ON A CLEAN VEHICLE ,AND HELPS YOU STAY SOME WHAT CLEANER , A CREEPER KEEPS YOU UP OFF THE GROUND ALSO , AND YES I'M AWARE OF THE FACT THAT IT DOESN'T MAKE IT GO ANY FASTER , LIKE I SAID , I'M PROBABLEY NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DON'T ALREADY KNOW OR HAVEN'T CONSIDERED ,, WHERE I LIVED THEY HAD A SWIVEL PIPE WITH A HOSE ATTACHED TO THE END OF IT AT THE CAR WASH , THE SAME AS THE ONES IN THE CAR WASH BAYS BUT WAS HIGH ENOUGH THAT YOU COULD DRIVE A TRACTOR UNDERNEATH , AN OPEN OUTSIDE AREA AT THE END OF THE CAR WASH BUILDING , WHEN I WAS IN TOWN COMEING HOME FROM A LONG HAUL , I WOULD GO THERE AND FOR $10.00 DOLLARS IN CHANGE I COULD SOAP THE TRACTOR DOWN AND RINSE IT OFF , IT HAD HOT AND COLD WATER SUPPLY YOU JUST HAD TO SET THE DIAL TO YOUR CHOICE WHILE CLEANING , PLUS USE THEIR VACUM IF I DIDN'T USE MY OWN . THANKS FOR TAKEING THE TIME TO TEACH OTHER'S,,,,,,,,,,,,, KEEP THE SHINEY SIDE UP AND THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN , KEEP TRUCKIN OLD BUDDY GORD , MAY THE GOOD LORD RIDE WITH YOU ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Thanks for watching.
U r dam amazing...
I love every video u post
Thanks.
Thanks this is all great information.
Thank you Sir.
Good video would like to see a video of universal joint replacement
Last time I did a U-joint was before I started doing videos, I hope I don't need to do one on mine anytime soon. I'll sure do one when I can. Thanks.
Yeah I know what ya mean
Awesome
Awesome video gordon
Thanks.
THANK YOU FOR U JOB AND SUPER VIDEO
Thank you.
Good video man.
Thanks for watching.
thanks for very informative vids,happy 4 july.
Thank you.
Thanks Mr.
Thanks for watching.
Buen trabajo abuelo 👴 50 year experiencia
Gracias nieto.
Did I see the cage bolt in on the new brake can during installation? I didn't notice when you put that in.
Do you need to cage the new one?
Carl!!!...from Slingblade!!!
This video really helped me understand how these work. I was wondering if when replacing one break chamber, do you need to replace both sides?
No
I put shop air to the spring brake side if the spring is broken and unable to cage.
Only problem I see is putting a jack on rear end housing. They will break.
Awesome vídeo, I like this 😃
Thanks for watching.
Good job 👍🏼
Thank you Sir.
It is not the same as lifting that axle with the hydraulic jack to lift it with the air bags. the same air lines are used or are separate lines??
When replacing the 30/30 chambers, do you have the brakes released or set?
Uses a blue wrench, it fits all !
That a Boy My Man Gordon
Well done
could of used a C-clamp to get that rusted pin out that's usually what I would do. good video
Thanks.
Great video Just the effort you put on Yhe last chamber its gone too Or need to go hole up Any way great video
Are you not caging the chamber?
Holy crap, I thought Johnny Cash was changing a brake chamber.
Good Job ....
Thanks for watching.
Nice video, question why did you check how far out cleave was out from face of 30/30 I check from inside just in case that spring was bad . then made a tool that goes into one side of chamber to supply air to compress the other end so can put the Jesus bolt in , and turn were the air lines hook up .
Thank you for the part about the fegure 8 part were it mounts
I don't do enough of them to know all of the tricks, you can always measure the rods on the other chambers if you want before cutting, they don't need to be exact anyway, within 1/2 an inch is good, as long as you have about 90* when the brake is applied. Thanks for watching.
Thanks bro
You spent one hour to reuse a four dollar clevis? I can do this job in one hour. but, I am a surgeon with a cutting torch.
THANK YOU!!! I did t wanna be the only dick to point that out.
you did a great job next time just hold that slack with vice grip and put caging bolt and removed air lines much fast 20 mins job
Thanks.
I have a question for you, through the whole process, are the brakes applied or released?
Released and backed off just like in the video.
good video.,
Thank you Sir.
I am a first time owner of a semi. It is an 07 Mack. I had the frame extended and a dump body added to haul grains and feed for local farms here where I live in NY. Your videos will be a big help to me. The Mack has parking brakes on only one axle. Is that typical? How complicated would it be to change the other drive axle to have parking brake too?
I haven't done that before but I wouldn't be afraid to do it, you would need to change the valve that sends air to the parking brake to release it, unless the original valve has 2 more ports that are capped off, or maybe you can put a couple of "Ts" in the valve to add 2 more air lines and just replace the "30s" with "30-30s" or whatever type of parking brakes you have on the back.
Yes it is typical when pulling trailers, trailers have 4 parking brakes, the bobtail doesn't need 4 but if you're putting a dump bed on then you definitely need 4 parking brakes on your truck.
They are called "Maxi Brakes"(dual axle parking brakes). Service brake relay is usually a 4-port R6 relay valve and the air lines go in the front ports of the brake chambers. Parking brakes are usually a 4-port R12 relay valve and the lines go in the the back port of a 30/30 brake chamber. Follow the lines coming out of the back port of your brake chambers to the park brake relay valve. If the lines are color coded --- Green = Service brakes Red = Park brakes. It should have pipe plugs in the other two ports of the park brake relay. You'll need two lines and two 30/30 chambers($100-$125 if you find the chambers on sale). Look for the "caging bolts" (t-bolts) needed for installation on the bottom of the new chambers. New chambers don't usually come "caged" for safety reasons during shipping.
11:05 make that pin loose. Could you use a socket and clamp to release that pin when was installed on truck?