Don’t forget about the biggest pro of the deletes. You never have to press anything in or out ever again. They are rebuildable right inside the knuckle / C! And when I installed them on my JK44 I also had some wandering issues. Once I drove them for like 200 miles they were broken in and my steering feels absolutely amazing now. Better than it’s ever been!
jeep, 1st thing you do, is re weld every brkt, or replace with thicker. jeep is like buying a body,,then fitting all the go stuff. swb f100 owner. perfect.
Yup lmao I bet the power steering returns like brand new lmfao. If ur blowing through ball joints how bout but a fkn axle meant for tires guys w Lil ds buy. Why not use Ford 9s or Dayna 90s or mouser 11.5s set of those retard pins cost as much as a used axel that's built for the purpose. Guys need to leave these pos jeeps to delivering mail. Lmao
The reason ball joints exist is for independent suspension where you have both types of movement and they discovered that they would work for solid axles and would be cheaper.
@@dalephillips8250 There aren't any kits for newer tundras and I don't think it would be cost effective to get one for normal use. The ones that I found are over $1,000 for just the lower ball joint.
Just in case the average person doesn’t understand these ball joint delete kits only work in straight axle vehicles. On any vehicle with multi link suspension you absolutely need the multi directional movement of the ball and socket as the suspension travels.
I have these on my JK axled LJ and love them, no issues at all and the steering feel is fantastic. Running 40" tires, no stabilizer, and 60 down the highway without issue (that's about all she'll do lol)
I have just recently joined the Jeep world. I have been a truck guy my whole life but now due to current interests it makes more sense for me to own a Jeep. All this being said I have enjoyed going back to your old videos watching all your Jeep JK mods. Thank you for the entertainment and information.
You are correct, I've seen countless RUclips certified mocanics do that wiggle and say "It's bad. personally I jack up at the ball joint, and if I use a prybar and move the tire and see movement up and down or side to side, it's bad. now, GM use to say up to 1/4 inch up and down was acceptable, I sold them new ones anyway as it will wear tires, and eventually let loose. The old FORD kingpin I-beam suspension was my fav, was damn near bulletproof. but because the geniuses at Ford put the tie rods behind the steering axis they wandered at high speeds if set to spec, so I toed them in and requested the tires be rotated more often.
Hey man. Just wanted to comment and say that your videos have developed super well over the years. I have been watching for some time now and happened across a video you made a long while back. Your comfort and ease on camera has come a long way and how you explain things is always amazing. I'm aspiring to have that progression in front of the camera my self on my channel! Thanks for all that you do bud!
Thank you for this beautiful episode, and the most beautiful thing is that you put a link to all the equipment and pieces that you used to facilitate the search for and purchase. Thank you again, wishing you safety on the road
Not sure if anyone mentioned it already, but you don't need a 19mm Allen key if you don't already have one. Any high strength bolt that uses a 19mm socket will fit. You just need to add a nut or 2 for the socket or wrench to fit onto. Had to do that on my nv3500 Trans overhaul.
Thank you, I was already shopping between these, tera, rare, and dyna after my set of "heavy duty lol" ball joints already feel dead in 20k miles. I didnt really understand how they were different than a standard balljoint until you had them apart and explained.
Yeah, they are all trash. I'm only running 35's ... I spent over $550 for TeraFlex "ADJUSTABLE / LIFETIME" Ball Joint kit... GOOD LUCK GETTING TERAFLEX TECHNICAL SUPPORT FOR WHY TERAFLEX KIT CAN NOT BE ADJUSTED...
'Ball-joint deletes' are not without their own problems. The dynamic impact forces that might have been absorbed in the OEM ball joints will be transmitted to control arms, increasing load and wear. You don't completely erase the ball-joint problem, you move it to other suspension joints.
Amen. AND, you don't know what other component is now the weakest link either. Jeep is already for wheeling, why mess with it? I guarantee you my stock XJ will go where you go, but then it will go back home too.
@@fayceoffI assure you, its far easier to replace 2x ball joints per side than 4x bushings, which the latter u need to remove BOTH the UCA and LCA AND pressing out the bushings AND removing the absorber AND the spring.
Hey.... that first photo looks familiar! 🤔 lol.... American Iron BJE are awesome. Josh is a great guy to buy from amd his product is spot on. After I had that catastrophic failure I knew these were the ticket. So far the drive great and having the 1.5° adjustment makes it drive great on the road. I also installed the 1550 shafts, but I didn't have to trim the upper bolt.
I did my PR44 a few years ago with heavy duty rebuildable ball joints and now have 9,000 miles on them and already bad. Looks like this is my next mod.
Good job, but just a tip for you when you tightening a nut and bolt or torquing a nut and bolt, always try and hold the bolt and torque or tighten the nut. The nut tightens more like a jam nut giving you a much better lock.
After a level and 35’s on my Ram, this will probably be my next purchase. Never done ball joints after 105k miles now, but I know it’s time, and I don’t want to be replacing them again.
Hint: When it gets that hot in your shop, turn off the ceiling fans. Keep the heat up and away and not blowing down on you. Ceiling fans are great in the winter, but not so much in the heat.
Have just found your channel and subscribed, marvellous presentation with clear and concise descriptions of how to fit the parts, thoroughly enjoyed it , regards Doc Cox.
Dude get a MRCOOL 24k or 32k mini-split for the garage, I put AC in my garage earlier this summer and it makes life so much better not sweating to death in this humid golf coast Texas heat while working on my YJ. I just picked up a 2012 F350 superduty Dana 60 and a 2002 Tahoe 10.5" 14 Bolt rear axle for my build, I had been thinking about doing the ball joint eliminators when I get to that point but first, re-gear and lockers!
Great video, brother, as always. Im at 40K and my balljoints are going, so this was timely. Something I’ve read about but hadn’t looked deep into them yet. You’ve convinced me and I look forward to hearing more about them next time 🤘🏼
Did he say that a kit was made for the D44? I’m doing a solid axle swap for one into my 99 Taco. I don’t want to go to the cost of the D60, not to mention finding one from out of a vehicle with the proper width. I got my 44 from a first gen Bronco so the width is PERFECT. Now I’m in my the process of narrowing my D60 for the rear top have it match. What do you think?
It would cost way to much money to move away from balljoints. Every vehicle with a solid axle and IFS uses the same design balljoint just different size/spec and a lot actually share the same size. Balljoints are fine for factory vehicles so they will never move away from that.
Everything I have heard and read about these have been offroad use only. Curious to see a review after some mileage as I am doing a 1 ton swap as well. I've been watching your vids along the way!
They are labeled for off-road use only, most likely for liability since it’s a small business. However I wouldn’t hesitate to install them on any rig. I guess I need to watch out for my liability now too 😅. “Off-road use only”
We’ve had ours in for about a year…a lot of offroad, some daily around town..and a ton of miles flat towed behind our motorhome….zero issues. Best thing we did. We got plenty videos to back it all up. You won’t regret it.
Where did you hear that they are for off-road. Use only? The owner of the company that created them doesn’t say that. Nobody I know that runs themselves that. And I personally run them on my daily.
Wonder how safe/streetable these would be in a F450. It’s time for ball joints and I’d like to run an upgrade instead of standard oem. Though I did get 246k out of oem
I purchased the barn's tie rod upgrade for my JK from watching your channel and I plan on purchasing these ball join deletes in the near future one question I hope you can answer what is your recommended caster tippinion angle I couldn't find the video that you did once for a stock JK Rubicon axle 4" lift getting vibration and I know my pinion angle is off trying to get her dialed in first alinment shop wasted my money going to another soon if you could give your oh pinion lol thanks for great videos!!
That stiffness should loosen up. The same happened when I put in new synergy balljoints. It was pretty squirrelly at first but loosened up after a few 100 miles. I’m planning to do deletes when upgrading the axle. Thanks for the vid.
Ball joints are for articulation. Everything flexes, especially on the trail. You are just moving the failure point to somewhere more expensive and difficult to replace and possibly introducing bind.
Same idea is used if you want to straighten steel rod. Heat the side opposite the bend.. When it cools, it shrinks and pulls it straight. Just spot heat to red, dont heat any other places.
It would be nice to see a "detailed" video on the actual install, pressing in the cups/BJD's, while explaining the do's and don'ts of the procedure, and how to get them going in straight/evenly. Also, which tools to use, adapters etc., (apparently there's an angled adapter that works well on Jeep axles, may even be very difficult without it???), getting the axles in without damaging the seals, especially the long side. (I do know some tricks, but I have seen seals still get damaged even with what should have worked to avoid it, and there's always more than one way to skin a cat). And any other pertinent information. I was bummed to see that part of the install shoot by at high speed with little, or really more like no information, on the procedure in this video. That is what I was watching to actually see. maybe you have already done one with that information? I have a 2009 JKUR with Dynatrac ProRock 44U. Reid Racing knuckles, RCV axles, etc. I just ordered a set of Am. Iron BJD's Gen2, had a Gen 1 set waiting and then the Gen 2's came out so looks like I have a set of Gen 1 JK 30/44 BJD's for sale.
Something that'll help the new joints go in even "easier"... Besides just freezing the new joints (overnight works best), use a hair dryer, heat gun or even a few passes with a propane torch to warm up the sockets on the knuckle a little first. Not talking crazy hot, only around 125°-140°F tops so you can still handle them with gloves! The technical term for that trick is called a "thermal-fit". And if you're in a REAL hurry you can ditch the hours in freezer... Put the new joints in either a small cardboard box or lunchbox size cooler and then use some "medical freeze spray", it chills things down to -62°F in NO time! Close the lid and let the parts soak up the cold and they're go to go in only about 5 minutes or so! A can of that is about $20-$30 even with Prime shipping... 😎
I have to put a pulley on my replacement power steering pump. I got the pulley puller kit, are the adapters that go on the bolts that go into the shaft deliberately too big for the bolts? I just found you and subscribed
Funny, I found your video because I was very curious as to how a ball joint delete worked, after 2 things, 1: I watched Matt's Off-Road Recovery install a set on the Banana, and 2: I watched Rory from TrailMater/MOAB Motorsports/Off-Road Recovery -recover a Jeep today with a sheared off/Broken ball-joint delete. Obviously they can and will break. I do see the benefit, but they aren't bullet proof. Neither were the king-pin design, which is why engineers developed an "easier to replace" component for daily drivers.
If an axle tube is bent, an adjustable bushing does not fix it, as it'll change the axle shaft centerline. Plus, that bolt is not a pin, as it should be, it has very little contact area with how many threads there are.
Other than the alignment collar, this looks almost exactly like the kingpins on pops old 1969 F-100 Twin I Beam pickup. It. Used bushings instead of your expensive hiem joint setup.
That's awesome....I did a solid axle swap on my 08 duramax however I used a super dana 60 that came out of a 2018 f350 super duty with 1550 steering u-joints and I would love to use those ball joint deletes what part number for those ball joints for that ford front axle I have
I just did upper and lowers on my XJ and it was a nightmare since I had to long arm crank them in and the press I rented didn’t have the “exact” size press cup to force it in straight. These would be a great alternative since they don’t have the joint leg sticking out to consider when pressing
These are awesome. I like the detail of the oring and the washer that goes on top of the bearing to keep dirt out. Contamination is what kills rod ends or spherical bearings. I wish they offered them for the old Dana 44s. It does seem like their rebuilt kits are a little expensive. You should be able to figure out which bearing they used from FK's website and find them at Summit or something. They are probably using the FK COM14T bearing. Maybe it's the AIN series. Measurements would confirm which bearing was used. A new high strength thin nylon locking nut can be sourced from McMaster-Carr. Locking nuts are single use only, especially in this application. You should be able to get everything for about $100 for both sides, uppers and lowers. I know everyone has got to make a buck, but the markup on their rebuild kits is high enough to be ridiculous. I made something similar to correct roll center/dynamic camber after lowering a car. When a MacPherson strut suspension is lowered by installing a stiffer, shorter spring, the lower control arms flatten out and this changes the suspension geometry. By making weld in bushings that held spherical bearings I was able to insert a regular bolt and a spacer between the knuckle and the lower control arm to push the arm down and get more angle on it. I think with having four bushings machined it was less then American Iron's rebuild kit. I can't remember - it was like 10-15 years ago.
I would slit the other taper sleeve as well, because there is play between the bolt and sleeve. I see your jeep has a solid front axle. Are independent front suspension arms not better than solid axle?
No such thing. Only sealed bearings that you can't grease. No seal is forever, and all bearings need grease. Personally I don't put anything on my truck that can't be greased.
Balljoints probably tookover due to being simpler on double A arm suspension and struts. They need the movement a balljoint provides, and manufacturers want to save money anywhere possible. So putting balljoints on everything, and using standard sizes, makes things cheaper.
hello, i just put mines on my jk Wrangler 2018, and my ABS is on but i know its one of my sensors went bad when taken it out, so I also had to do an alignment , but the ABS Light is still on hahah , any advise ? and what is the news on theses babies?
Don’t forget about the biggest pro of the deletes. You never have to press anything in or out ever again. They are rebuildable right inside the knuckle / C!
And when I installed them on my JK44 I also had some wandering issues. Once I drove them for like 200 miles they were broken in and my steering feels absolutely amazing now. Better than it’s ever been!
jeep, 1st thing you do, is re weld every brkt, or replace with thicker. jeep is like buying a body,,then fitting all the go stuff. swb f100 owner. perfect.
@@harrywalker968 cool man
Yup lmao I bet the power steering returns like brand new lmfao. If ur blowing through ball joints how bout but a fkn axle meant for tires guys w Lil ds buy.
Why not use Ford 9s or Dayna 90s or mouser 11.5s set of those retard pins cost as much as a used axel that's built for the purpose. Guys need to leave these pos jeeps to delivering mail. Lmao
The reason ball joints exist is for independent suspension where you have both types of movement and they discovered that they would work for solid axles and would be cheaper.
So are you saying you can't do these deletes for Trucks that don't have a solid front axle?
@@dalephillips8250 they make different kits than these but this style won't work on independent suspension.
@@trevorlynch6549 Just wanted to know if this would be a viable option for a 2020 Tundra if my stock ball joints ever go out.
@@dalephillips8250 There aren't any kits for newer tundras and I don't think it would be cost effective to get one for normal use. The ones that I found are over $1,000 for just the lower ball joint.
@@trevorlynch6549 Thanks for the reply
Just in case the average person doesn’t understand these ball joint delete kits only work in straight axle vehicles. On any vehicle with multi link suspension you absolutely need the multi directional movement of the ball and socket as the suspension travels.
Best thing I ever did to my Jeep…Josh at American Iron is a FANTASTIC dude…super helpful !!!!!….Over a year on them now….still the best thing ever.
We feel the same way!!
I have these on my JK axled LJ and love them, no issues at all and the steering feel is fantastic. Running 40" tires, no stabilizer, and 60 down the highway without issue (that's about all she'll do lol)
I have just recently joined the Jeep world. I have been a truck guy my whole life but now due to current interests it makes more sense for me to own a Jeep. All this being said I have enjoyed going back to your old videos watching all your Jeep JK mods. Thank you for the entertainment and information.
I’ve had them for 2 an 1/2 years on my crawler now and love them !!!! There worth every penny !!
Your the first guy I have seen on youtube explain ball joint wear properly.
You are correct, I've seen countless RUclips certified mocanics do that wiggle and say "It's bad. personally I jack up at the ball joint, and if I use a prybar and move the tire and see movement up and down or side to side, it's bad. now, GM use to say up to 1/4 inch up and down was acceptable, I sold them new ones anyway as it will wear tires, and eventually let loose. The old FORD kingpin I-beam suspension was my fav, was damn near bulletproof. but because the geniuses at Ford put the tie rods behind the steering axis they wandered at high speeds if set to spec, so I toed them in and requested the tires be rotated more often.
Glad I found this video, I bought my BJE from down to Fab and he doesn't offer a BJE for both the upper and lower, only the upper. Thanks man.
Had mine on my jk for about a year now. Josh is a first class guy and I love my deletes !
Hey man. Just wanted to comment and say that your videos have developed super well over the years. I have been watching for some time now and happened across a video you made a long while back. Your comfort and ease on camera has come a long way and how you explain things is always amazing. I'm aspiring to have that progression in front of the camera my self on my channel!
Thanks for all that you do bud!
Thank you for this beautiful episode, and the most beautiful thing is that you put a link to all the equipment and pieces that you used to facilitate the search for and purchase. Thank you again, wishing you safety on the road
Love mine. I've had a set in a Dana 44 for quite a while and getting ready to install a set in my dana 60.
I have them on my jeep since 2020, no issue they are great
Not sure if anyone mentioned it already, but you don't need a 19mm Allen key if you don't already have one. Any high strength bolt that uses a 19mm socket will fit. You just need to add a nut or 2 for the socket or wrench to fit onto. Had to do that on my nv3500 Trans overhaul.
Thank you, I was already shopping between these, tera, rare, and dyna after my set of "heavy duty lol" ball joints already feel dead in 20k miles. I didnt really understand how they were different than a standard balljoint until you had them apart and explained.
Yeah, they are all trash.
I'm only running 35's
...
I spent over $550 for TeraFlex "ADJUSTABLE / LIFETIME" Ball Joint kit...
GOOD LUCK GETTING TERAFLEX TECHNICAL SUPPORT FOR WHY TERAFLEX KIT CAN NOT BE ADJUSTED...
@@hardwickchris1what ball joints do you recommend?
'Ball-joint deletes' are not without their own problems. The dynamic impact forces that might have been absorbed in the OEM ball joints will be transmitted to control arms, increasing load and wear. You don't completely erase the ball-joint problem, you move it to other suspension joints.
Amen. AND, you don't know what other component is now the weakest link either. Jeep is already for wheeling, why mess with it? I guarantee you my stock XJ will go where you go, but then it will go back home too.
Yes, but if you've already upgraded all of that stuff, it's much easier to replace bushings in control arms than replace ball joints in my opinion.
A wise engineering professor once said “Engineer a failure point into the system or the system will engineer it for you”
I much rather have a arm issues than balljoint death wobble issues
@@fayceoffI assure you, its far easier to replace 2x ball joints per side than 4x bushings, which the latter u need to remove BOTH the UCA and LCA AND pressing out the bushings AND removing the absorber AND the spring.
I have had to do ball joints in almost every Jeep I've owned. I will be looking to install a set of these in my Jeep when I do joints!
Hey.... that first photo looks familiar! 🤔 lol.... American Iron BJE are awesome. Josh is a great guy to buy from amd his product is spot on. After I had that catastrophic failure I knew these were the ticket. So far the drive great and having the 1.5° adjustment makes it drive great on the road.
I also installed the 1550 shafts, but I didn't have to trim the upper bolt.
I love my ball joint deletes! They are doing great with my hemi!
I did my PR44 a few years ago with heavy duty rebuildable ball joints and now have 9,000 miles on them and already bad. Looks like this is my next mod.
Good job, but just a tip for you when you tightening a nut and bolt or torquing a nut and bolt, always try and hold the bolt and torque or tighten the nut. The nut tightens more like a jam nut giving you a much better lock.
After a level and 35’s on my Ram, this will probably be my next purchase.
Never done ball joints after 105k miles now, but I know it’s time, and I don’t want to be replacing them again.
Thanks for sharing. This will save me a ton of time on my Nissan D21 build. Durable spares are non existent here in South Africa 🇿🇦. Cheers
I’m a fan of the bolt on ball joints on IFS Toyotas. Super tough and easy to replace.
Hint: When it gets that hot in your shop, turn off the ceiling fans. Keep the heat up and away and not blowing down on you. Ceiling fans are great in the winter, but not so much in the heat.
You are awesome, Ben! I wish I could just bring my Jeep to you and have you install these ball joint deletes and lift. Great vid!
My next set of ball joints will be the ball joint deletes. Great video thanks. I like that you were straight forward about how it felt on the road.
Wholly Molly, I've missed a lot of videos. RUclips isn't doing a good job on the notifications 🙄. Good video thanks 👍
very timely, just started looking at these...
Love my American Iron Offroad Ball Joint Deletes for my SD60!!! Great customer service as well.
Have just found your channel and subscribed, marvellous presentation with clear and concise descriptions of how to fit the parts, thoroughly enjoyed it , regards Doc Cox.
Dude get a MRCOOL 24k or 32k mini-split for the garage, I put AC in my garage earlier this summer and it makes life so much better not sweating to death in this humid golf coast Texas heat while working on my YJ.
I just picked up a 2012 F350 superduty Dana 60 and a 2002 Tahoe 10.5" 14 Bolt rear axle for my build, I had been thinking about doing the ball joint eliminators when I get to that point but first, re-gear and lockers!
Great video, brother, as always. Im at 40K and my balljoints are going, so this was timely. Something I’ve read about but hadn’t looked deep into them yet. You’ve convinced me and I look forward to hearing more about them next time 🤘🏼
I was looking into those kits a couple months ago for my tj and wj. Thank you for this it makes my decision final.
Did he say that a kit was made for the D44? I’m doing a solid axle swap for one into my 99 Taco. I don’t want to go to the cost of the D60, not to mention finding one from out of a vehicle with the proper width. I got my 44 from a first gen Bronco so the width is PERFECT. Now I’m in my the process of narrowing my D60 for the rear top have it match.
What do you think?
I love them. Will never go back to regular ball joints
Really looking forward to this one. I need new balljoints and have been considering the deletes but have not had time to do much research
Great video and thanks for going in depth on the ball joint delete. 👍🏼
Thanks for the run down. I may start running these in my TJ and X
I don't see any zert fittings on it. Do you have to rebuild if often? That's my only complaint.
Thanks, I have 2 F250 hiboys; ‘76 & ‘77. This will definitely help the loaded drive ability on the interstate 👍
Hey bud, do you have a Dana 60 or 44? my 77 F250 crew had kingpins
Only available for 92 and newer dana 60
Thinking about moving that direction. The question I have if their so great, why hasn’t Jeep went to them. Is their a benefit to the ball joins?
It would cost way to much money to move away from balljoints. Every vehicle with a solid axle and IFS uses the same design balljoint just different size/spec and a lot actually share the same size. Balljoints are fine for factory vehicles so they will never move away from that.
I have an F-350 with Dana 60’s. Will these work?
Everything I have heard and read about these have been offroad use only. Curious to see a review after some mileage as I am doing a 1 ton swap as well. I've been watching your vids along the way!
They are labeled for off-road use only, most likely for liability since it’s a small business. However I wouldn’t hesitate to install them on any rig. I guess I need to watch out for my liability now too 😅. “Off-road use only”
@@JKGearandGadgets we've had ours on for over 25k miles and daily it. We love them.
We’ve had ours in for about a year…a lot of offroad, some daily around town..and a ton of miles flat towed behind our motorhome….zero issues. Best thing we did. We got plenty videos to back it all up. You won’t regret it.
Where did you hear that they are for off-road. Use only? The owner of the company that created them doesn’t say that. Nobody I know that runs themselves that. And I personally run them on my daily.
@@Davidtheinfidel ummm if you look up in comments jk gear agreed it says for off-road use only!!! (LIABILITY? BLAH BLAH.
Thank you for all your video content, is there any way you can do an update on the reliability of these ball joint deletes?
Wonder how safe/streetable these would be in a F450. It’s time for ball joints and I’d like to run an upgrade instead of standard oem. Though I did get 246k out of oem
I'd like to know as well, i value my truck and want to run it as long as i possibly can, if these can make that easier id be more than willing
@@johnkenley4687 feel the same way
There's vids on here of the manufacturer installing them, he talks about streetability and the BS involved in the installation.
I purchased the barn's tie rod upgrade for my JK from watching your channel and I plan on purchasing these ball join deletes in the near future one question I hope you can answer what is your recommended caster tippinion angle I couldn't find the video that you did once for a stock JK Rubicon axle 4" lift getting vibration and I know my pinion angle is off trying to get her dialed in first alinment shop wasted my money going to another soon if you could give your oh pinion lol thanks for great videos!!
I just went to rcv axles I wonder if these would fit??
How have the ball joint deletes been holding up after the past 2 years? Love your channel.
That stiffness should loosen up. The same happened when I put in new synergy balljoints. It was pretty squirrelly at first but loosened up after a few 100 miles. I’m planning to do deletes when upgrading the axle. Thanks for the vid.
Ball joints are for articulation. Everything flexes, especially on the trail.
You are just moving the failure point to somewhere more expensive and difficult to replace and possibly introducing bind.
Please explain how balljoints articulate on a solid axle lol…. Very incorrect comment
How do kingpins work then?
The only time a balljoint will articulate is on an IFS axle.
I wonder if they sell these for different vehicles cause I'm tired of replacing ball joints every yr.
The X-mas tree lights on your dash makes me cringe lol 😂
Love the video Ben!!! I wouldn’t mind doing this swap on my JT. Keep up the great work my friend.
Same idea is used if you want to straighten steel rod. Heat the side opposite the bend.. When it cools, it shrinks and pulls it straight.
Just spot heat to red, dont heat any other places.
Great video. Thanks for addressing the many questions I would have had by being very thorough. Cheers!
What kind of sidesteps do you got on that jeep? Great video by the way!
Can you explain how these are different than the dynatrac ball joints which also use a spherical bearing vs a ball & cup?
He can't cuz it's just hype. The only time you need spherical joints is when you want to fix bump steer, and they need to be height adjustable.
It would be nice to see a "detailed" video on the actual install, pressing in the cups/BJD's, while explaining the do's and don'ts of the procedure, and how to get them going in straight/evenly. Also, which tools to use, adapters etc., (apparently there's an angled adapter that works well on Jeep axles, may even be very difficult without it???), getting the axles in without damaging the seals, especially the long side. (I do know some tricks, but I have seen seals still get damaged even with what should have worked to avoid it, and there's always more than one way to skin a cat). And any other pertinent information. I was bummed to see that part of the install shoot by at high speed with little, or really more like no information, on the procedure in this video. That is what I was watching to actually see. maybe you have already done one with that information? I have a 2009 JKUR with Dynatrac ProRock 44U. Reid Racing knuckles, RCV axles, etc. I just ordered a set of Am. Iron BJD's Gen2, had a Gen 1 set waiting and then the Gen 2's came out so looks like I have a set of Gen 1 JK 30/44 BJD's for sale.
What about greasing or oiling of the bearings on these deletes? Is that needed in order to lubricate them?
Nope. No lube needed. They have a Teflon liner.
Are the bearings sealed or can they be greased?
Something that'll help the new joints go in even "easier"... Besides just freezing the new joints (overnight works best), use a hair dryer, heat gun or even a few passes with a propane torch to warm up the sockets on the knuckle a little first. Not talking crazy hot, only around 125°-140°F tops so you can still handle them with gloves! The technical term for that trick is called a "thermal-fit". And if you're in a REAL hurry you can ditch the hours in freezer... Put the new joints in either a small cardboard box or lunchbox size cooler and then use some "medical freeze spray", it chills things down to -62°F in NO time! Close the lid and let the parts soak up the cold and they're go to go in only about 5 minutes or so! A can of that is about $20-$30 even with Prime shipping... 😎
I have to put a pulley on my replacement power steering pump. I got the pulley puller kit, are the adapters that go on the bolts that go into the shaft deliberately too big for the bolts? I just found you and subscribed
Is something like this available for a mid 80s dodge Dana 44?
no sir, only 2000 and newer dodge axles
Funny, I found your video because I was very curious as to how a ball joint delete worked, after 2 things, 1: I watched Matt's Off-Road Recovery install a set on the Banana, and 2: I watched Rory from TrailMater/MOAB Motorsports/Off-Road Recovery -recover a Jeep today with a sheared off/Broken ball-joint delete. Obviously they can and will break. I do see the benefit, but they aren't bullet proof. Neither were the king-pin design, which is why engineers developed an "easier to replace" component for daily drivers.
BTW; Thank you for clarifying their use/design etc.
Do they cause extra noise saw a few reviews that claimed this. My only concern is that..
How long does it take to change upper and lower ball joints on one side of a Jeep Wrangler
Do those need to get any type of greasing and in the Northern areas would salt etc be a problem?
This is new to me , never heard of this 🤯 thanks I might do this
Can you do this for pickups also? Or just for Jeep models
If an axle tube is bent, an adjustable bushing does not fix it, as it'll change the axle shaft centerline.
Plus, that bolt is not a pin, as it should be, it has very little contact area with how many threads there are.
Yes if the axle is bent it’s trash. I was referring to a bent C.
Awesome Ben, Was considering these for mine.
Very nice. I wish I had a nice shop (with a/c!). But I need to do this on 1st Gen 4runner.
I would certainly hope that brand new ball joints or in this case delete’s would be super responsive especially after replacing WORN parts
Do the balljoint deletes eliminate the dreaded death wobble??
Other than the alignment collar, this looks almost exactly like the kingpins on pops old 1969 F-100 Twin I Beam pickup. It. Used bushings instead of your expensive hiem joint setup.
Looking at the front of your jeep...I thought you installed a Motobilt Hatchet bumper on the front? Did you not like it?
Do they make a replacement for the joint on the pittman arm?
That's awesome....I did a solid axle swap on my 08 duramax however I used a super dana 60 that came out of a 2018 f350 super duty with 1550 steering u-joints and I would love to use those ball joint deletes what part number for those ball joints for that ford front axle I have
Do you know if these will work on a 96' Bronco. Dana 44 ttb front end
no... Dana 60 Ford only
Looks stronger and great it’s rebuildabe !… but it’s still a ball joint !
Wonder if I could do this to my Can Am Maverick x3?
Active Duty Training?
Are you in the Guard?
I have hear that American iron ball joint deletes are noisy. Can you confirm or deny that after 1 year of use?
I’m must be refreshing driving down the road with every possible dash light on lol
I just did upper and lowers on my XJ and it was a nightmare since I had to long arm crank them in and the press I rented didn’t have the “exact” size press cup to force it in straight. These would be a great alternative since they don’t have the joint leg sticking out to consider when pressing
These are awesome. I like the detail of the oring and the washer that goes on top of the bearing to keep dirt out. Contamination is what kills rod ends or spherical bearings. I wish they offered them for the old Dana 44s.
It does seem like their rebuilt kits are a little expensive. You should be able to figure out which bearing they used from FK's website and find them at Summit or something. They are probably using the FK COM14T bearing. Maybe it's the AIN series. Measurements would confirm which bearing was used. A new high strength thin nylon locking nut can be sourced from McMaster-Carr. Locking nuts are single use only, especially in this application. You should be able to get everything for about $100 for both sides, uppers and lowers. I know everyone has got to make a buck, but the markup on their rebuild kits is high enough to be ridiculous.
I made something similar to correct roll center/dynamic camber after lowering a car. When a MacPherson strut suspension is lowered by installing a stiffer, shorter spring, the lower control arms flatten out and this changes the suspension geometry. By making weld in bushings that held spherical bearings I was able to insert a regular bolt and a spacer between the knuckle and the lower control arm to push the arm down and get more angle on it. I think with having four bushings machined it was less then American Iron's rebuild kit. I can't remember - it was like 10-15 years ago.
I would slit the other taper sleeve as well, because there is play between the bolt and sleeve.
I see your jeep has a solid front axle. Are independent front suspension arms not better than solid axle?
No. Solid front axles are less prone to breakage, especially when off roading.
Jeep Wranglers are solid axle vehicles and always have been.
@@CamaroAmx What about a hummer or humvee, they have independent front suspension and they seem to be doing well?
Are these a sealed bering that never has to be greased? Thanks enjoy your videos.
No such thing. Only sealed bearings that you can't grease. No seal is forever, and all bearings need grease.
Personally I don't put anything on my truck that can't be greased.
@@Anubis78250 14 bolt full float wheel bearings don't need grease.
@@thelikebutton4405 Yes they do. While not technically called "grease", they are "greased" by the differential fluid.
Maybe the additional caster had something to do with the steering feel as well? Obviously the 3 link needs some love too.
I wonder if they make these for anything else other than jeeps?
Do they make those ball joints for pick ups like Ram 1500 2019
yes
Balljoints probably tookover due to being simpler on double A arm suspension and struts. They need the movement a balljoint provides, and manufacturers want to save money anywhere possible. So putting balljoints on everything, and using standard sizes, makes things cheaper.
Awesome I wish they had something like that for A arms.
They don't make those for most all other vehicles? Looks like fantastic idea!
Looks like an awesome upgrade! what about on the Gladiator? Or is this only for heavy offroading?
Great upgrade for a jl/jt
If anyone is interested in a greaseable ball joint eliminator, check out DOWN TO Fab. His BJE uses zerk fittings and brass bushings.
You need to invest in a couple of swamp coolers for your shop!
hello, i just put mines on my jk Wrangler 2018, and my ABS is on but i know its one of my sensors went bad when taken it out, so I also had to do an alignment , but the ABS Light is still on hahah , any advise ? and what is the news on theses babies?