I print in ABS only. My parts are used outside. PLA will not survive outdoors. I am not sure about the price of anything fancier. Here are the tips and tricks; 1- Cover the glass with captain tape. Do a good job. No air bubbles or wrinkles. 2- Using a small brush, apply a thin coating of ABS juice. (ABS juice is to dissolve a piece of ABS the size of a quarter, into a cup of acetone. The thinner the better. Acetone will also get rid of finger prints and other nasty greasy stuff. Any thicker, and it will have the reverse effect). 3- Set nozzle temp to 245ºC for 1st layer, 235ºC for other layers. Bed temp must be 100ºC. I had to set mine to 108ºC to get 100ºC on the print surface. 4- Slice and print the part with 3mm-5mm Brim. Raft maybe necessary for huge parts. 5- let the part cool to room temp Completely, before attempting to remove it. The part just lifts as if it was never stuck to the bed! Do not use any tools. Not required and will damage the tape. If you are in a hurry, put the print plate in a freezer for 1/2 hour and then let it reach room temp. The expansion and contraction with loosen the bonding to the plate. You'll get beautiful prints every time. no warping or lifting. No fighting to get the part off... This has been learned the hard way and spools of trial and error. Enjoy.
For you. For me and an AnetA2, I use gluestick on glass, 70C bed and 230C hotend using Hatchbox ABS (several colors). Only fail I had was when the spool unseated itself and stopped feeding.
I have a mailbox flag holder up in PLA (first one was ABS) for 2 years (this will be the third year) of rain, snow, sleet, and burning hot sun as that part is in the evening sun as it faces directly at it in the southern USA sun (100f-105f is not uncommon) as a test and it is still as good as when I put it up. It was Justpla PLA (their abs sucked) so not sure if that company is still around or not. I much prefer ABS and have since stopped buying PLA as I replaced it with PETG and for ABS I have my eyes set on ASA if the stuff would even come down another 20% in price.
orbitalair, I'll have to give glue stick another go. I used it with no success. Then again, my bed was at 100ºC. Will try it at 70ºC. Thanks for the tip.
Turquoise and I check up on it every six months and the previous ABS one was yellow and was not 100% ABS as it would not fully melt in Acetone and after two years had faded out pretty badly. The company went from great filament to horrible in two runs until they were forced out of business back in 2014 (I purchased it back in 2013 based on recommendations and reviews based upon those two previous runs). edit: Here is exactly what I purchased back in Jan/2015 - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLI9OLW as that is from my past orders ledger on Amazon and has not faded nor degraded as I mentioned above. edit: I was looking at my review in Feb on it and - Very very good PLA and it does ooze more than I am used to BUT it is purer is the reason. Smooth and just looks good.
Sometimes when I print at 0.3mm layer height with my 0.4mm nozzle, the layer above doesn't get smooshed down enough to the layer below, resulting in some areas not bonding enough. At 0.25mm layer height it's ok. The black ABS showed this issue as well but it was harder to see. I get this will all filaments at 0.3mm Z height.
I've been really lucky with almost zero warping. Got my first printer, put it in a grow tent, added 2 reptile lamps, and made a ABS acetone slurry. 110 bed and 240 nozzle and perfect prints with no warping. Although I am getting some blobs coming out the side and I can't seem to fix that even with upping the retractions hmmm
Was just about to get the Markerfarm printer out and clean it up and also look into laser cutters for gaming terrain. Was expecting the usual overseas based RUclipss to show up on the search. SHOCK. An Australian based youtube channel that answers all my questions. Thanks Chris. Were is that patreon button.
Slightly off topic, however, if you haven't done so already, try the eSun PLA Plus. I love it. It is stronger, very easy to print, sticks great, and looks very good. Take care and thank you for sharing.
Pete. How resistant is to weather that eSun PLA plus ?, does it deforms if you leave it under the sun? Normally PLA melt if you leave it in your car in a sunny day for sample. ABS resist a lot more heat than regular PLA
Just yesterday I reprinted parts of my x-carriage that are in proximity with the hotend with formfutura ABSpro. These parts were originally all PETG, but after a month of use, especially with higher temperatures, they are showing discoloration and deformation due to the heat. In this regard, ABS still has its use cases, and these newer formulas are easier than the old generic stuff. Even though I did print with a wide brim (IMHO the number one trick to reduce part warping), I was surprised how well the ABSpro performed, albeit I had to run my heated bed at its max around 100C. I guess power consumption on the long run can be factored in also considering ABS.
OK, you're definitely buying from the wrong shop if PETG is significantly more expensive than PLA and ABS. Here in Germany PETG costs 2-5 Euros (incl. VAT) more than PLA. (1kg PLA 21€, 1kg PETG 23€ at Schmelzbar, 1kg PLA 22€, 1kg PETG 27€ at DasFilament) I'm not sure about the ABS prices, because I never printed ABS before and I never will be. I have my printers in a room right next to my bedroom. So I can't have any toxic fumes there.
PETG prices are higher in Australia than PLA/ABS, at least for the esun brand. It could be said you're paying too much for PLA? Either way I agree about the toxic smell from ABS is not pleasant. Although I'd be cautious with any fumes from melting plastic, regardless if you can smell them or not.
I buy most of my filament at Motedis.de. 1kg filament cost €16 no matter if it is PLA, ABS+, PETG or HIPS. It's branded "DevilDesign" - not sure if its considered a good brand or not, but I like printing with it.
You are paying more for your PLA's and ABS's so PETG prices aren't that far off. I am paying half of what you pay for PLA and ABS, but the cheapest PETG available is the same price as yours, so for me PETG is significantly more expensive. Its just a matter of perspective.
I never liked PLA. It transformed the making community into a 'print useless novelty crap that fills your shelves' company, because of it's insufficient properties, especially thermal wise. So it's great to see, that there's some advancement with ABS.
There are infinite uses of 3d printing... for instance I do a lot of fabrication and printing a template I can use to transfer over on a piece of metal is invaluable since I don't own a cnc. PLA work great for this because it's not exposed to UV. Now I want to start printing parts for the race car so I'm gonna have to move over to ABS for the extra heat protection... PETG isn't quite enough for what I need.
Not sure where you live, but in the US, Amazon Basics brand of PETG is $13 per KG from Amazon. eSun is about $20ish. Main downside of PETG is that it is sometimes blobby and it is often very hard to remove the support - probably due to amazing layer bonding. But yeah, while I did just finally get ABS to print decently after years of trying, I will probably not buy any more.
Hi i got one of those cheap refrigerators slash food heater that dont work verry good as a refrigerator so i was going to try it out to dry my tpu filaments on the heat setting about 4 rolls fit in there i was also going to use as a dry storage what do you think will it work what is tour opinion on this thank you
Have you had any problems with your PrintInZ Plate having bubbles in the surface after removing parts? I print PETG at 245c and 70c for the heated bed and it caused little bubbles on the surface. Doesn't quite affect anything but the bottom surface is mostly still flat. He has stopped selling the product all together for some reason...
I almost exclusively use PETG. everything ABS wishes it could be. ease of printing, excellent self adhesion, nearly zero warping, no heated build chamber required, high strength, non brittle, no fumes. the PETG i buy costs the same as PLA.
Any idea what the glass transition temp is for this filament? I've been using it for awhile and it is definitely less prone to heat warping than PLA but still not good enough for thin wall RC airplanes in the hot Hawaii sun.
Hi Tech2C, I have a question about your previous printer - the Prusa I3. I am currently struggling to find an adequate setup for my heated bed. I could see that you used some sort of an aluminium bed - would you mind to elaborate on the exact components which you utilizied ? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work, Roy.
How does that printinZ plate stick to the heatbed? Just by that two clamps? Won't this make for a bad heat transfer, especially in the front, further from the clamps?
Interested until you said doesn't work well with acetone, abs is the material of choice for prop making due to its ease of sanding, acetone welding and smoothing, PLA is great for quick models or parts that don require much finish and I've just started using petg (to make my 1st quad) and it's great for ease of use and strength but nothing is as good as abs for props, just a massive pain in the bum to eliminate warping, even with an enclosure and PEI print surface
I'm going o give it a try because he didn't say it was immune to acetone, just less easily melted. In my mind this is potentially a good thing because pure ABS is a little too sensitive to acetone and that makes good smoothing on detailed parts more difficult because the ABS can melt it too much very rapidly and ruin the part. If this just reacts slower, it may yield better looking results, by giving more time to work with it.
They both warped in the same corner. Check for backwash from the hotend fan. I recall someone used an thermal camera to create a map of the bed temp with the extruder stationary and switching it's fan on and off.
Does it fully melt with acetone? I haven't seen any low warp ABS that properly melts, for smoothing and for making slurry. At least gluing with acetone does work.
The slurry can get a bit painful, but once I discovered the blue glue sticks I have not had an ABS lift. I don't understand the push for PLA considering it is useless in real world applications. Modelling and maybe prototyping, seem to be the only uses for PLA.
I print a lot in ABS for my printer upgrades so when i use a enclosure they will not get soft. I am addicted to acetone smoothing parts even though they don't need to be which is one feature ABS has over all other plastics. Even using acetone to weld and fix printed parts is just awesome rather than reprinting a entire object i can just use a bit of acetone and weld it back together and repair it.
The biggest problem with abs was not the bed adhesion (abs juice works sometimes even too well) or the smell, but the cracking on higher layers. This was absolute pain, and even though enclosed printer reduced the cracking there was obviously still stress in the layers which reduced the part strength significantly, the print quality was a bit rubbish and after the part cools down it does warp a bit.
I didn't hear you mention any enclosure and didn't see one in the vid. I haven't begun using ABS yet, but I've always been led to believe that a temperature controlled enclosure is essential for printing it.
Can sounds weird but in Portugal, the PLA it’s the cheapest filament that you can buy. One kg of PLA it’s less than 20 euros, ABS costs 20 or more euros and PETG costs more than 30 euros per kg. I’ve started printed with ABS and I am surprised with the great results on my low quality 3d printer (anet a8). I manly print small parts but the most important rule is to use a brim. You should always use a brim to prevent warping! I print on a glass surface with air spray, and my temperatures for ABS are 240 and 100 on the heat bed. No cooling fan. Other tips,: you need to calibrate the extruder for ABS (my low cost abs didn’t have an consistent diameter of 1,75 due to the low fabric process). I didn’t t have any enclosure, but I have an insulated heat bed. If you build an enclosure you can get better results
Traditional ABS has required special attention to limit warping, such as adding a brim, enclosing the printer, using ABS juice, etc. But we have these new ABS filaments that are low warp. That should mean we don't need to bend over backwards to assist the filament from warping/contracting. And it's the same price as regular ABS. If you print alot of ABS then try a roll of low-warp ABS and let me know your results.
I thought ABS was supposed to be printed with little (10%) to no cooling. Also if possible, use an enclosure to keep the heat in and the fumes able to be extracted with more control. If ASA can be put the paces I would like to see that in comparison to ABS.
Should I get abs+ or petg then ? Petg seems nice but I've always heard abs is better for mechanical and structural parts which is partly what I'm after, as well as temperature resistance.
Depends on exactly what you're going to print. PETG is just as easy to print as PLA, you can even use layer cooling for overhangs, no issues at all. Also it's tougher as the interlayer bonding is really strong unlike ABS. but it's quite a bit more flexible than ABS. So t's not as rigid as ABS. I believe that using PETG for 3D printer parts will result in increased ghosting artifacts because at high speed the system will be a bit more "wobbly", but I haven't specifically tested them against each other like that. for parts which will take abuse like quadcopter parts I think PETG will be better. it will bend and bounce and snap back to how it was where ABS will delaminate, But when you need precision and can't have any oscillation like 3d printer parts, I think ABS will do better.
PETG is highly prone to stringing. It can be "fixed" with higher fan setting, but it would significantly affect layer adhesion. What's about ABS+ - After I started using it, I totally stopped buying regular ABS and particularly PLA. With my PEI heated bed and enclosure it gives best results. So, only ABS+ or PETG with slow fan.
Might I suggest you investigate the engineering filaments made by form futura such as titanx and the reformed rtitan (which is waste plastic from the extrusion lines which is re used) which have superb printing properties but are just as strong as ABS. They also have many other interesting filaments such as appolo and ABSpro
Someone on an amazon review said that esun abs+ is more like an polymaker pla and its not possible to Smooth with acetone. It seems to be not very rigid also.
Thanks Chris. Just putting together a parts list for a printer and will also design a laser cutter based on your 3d printer design. You may get annoyed at all the questions about to come your way. :-)
What about strength / durable? I've seen huge differences in ABS from the same roll! 2 colour roll, black and yellow. The black is very resilient with some flex where as the yellow is very brittle in comparison.
I would hope the manufacturer would supply that information on thier website. It shouldn't be up to us customers to test every colour of every filament type.
That was a pretty good print for generic ABS. That print in z plate must be good. I used Formfutura TitanX ABS(3dfilaprint ABS-X). That comes with a full data sheet.
I have a roll of Formfutura ApolloX ASA which sticks to the PrintinZ plate very well. Manufacturers that actually supply datasheets with their filaments are top shelf in my opinion.
i got a cheapo Tronxy P802 and i must say , after i build ma enclosure i never had a problem with ABS anymore i put ma bed at 100°C , and i have 0 worries about the part sticking to the bed i do still alternate between ABS-PLA-PETG though i find ABS to have a wee ruffer surface finish compared to PLA & PETG but it's the cheapest of the 3 lol and lighter aswell , so , 1kg of ABS ha's more filament on the spool then PLA & PETG so yea ! still whurt it 4sure
2.50 - I've never looked back after enabling auto-levelling on my HyperCube (thanks again, Chris!). Set it up once, and never worry about the bed adjustment screws slipping ever again! The time and $ spent on wrecking printing surfaces (I use a "PEI" stick-on) are worth it, let alone the aborted prints. Tom has the auto-levelling tutorial to watch - ruclips.net/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/видео.html I get the print surface from Banggood - www.banggood.com/5pcs-220x220mm-Plastic-Hot-Bed-Stickers-For-3D-Printer-Wanhao-i3-p-1158028.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
have to say, this is the best layer p0rn I've ever seen a 3d printer do, that first layer is GORGEOUS and the black abs sides look AMAZING yes i know this video is old but I keep coming back to it, just look at those layers who wouldn't?
Has anybody tried to make a PLA mold to then make an ABS part? I think it's a good idea, especially for the Peon frame, as I brake some part at least once a month ;)
95% of time you don't need ABS. ABS has inferior mechanical spec than most others materials included PLA, is less measurements accurate, is difficult to print. Is not eco friendly. You need ABS only if you need: - better temperature resistance - Lasy and cheap finish aka Smoothing with acetone - increase polution with all your failed prints
I print in ABS only. My parts are used outside. PLA will not survive outdoors. I am not sure about the price of anything fancier.
Here are the tips and tricks;
1- Cover the glass with captain tape. Do a good job. No air bubbles or wrinkles.
2- Using a small brush, apply a thin coating of ABS juice. (ABS juice is to dissolve a piece of ABS the size of a quarter, into a cup of acetone. The thinner the better. Acetone will also get rid of finger prints and other nasty greasy stuff. Any thicker, and it will have the reverse effect).
3- Set nozzle temp to 245ºC for 1st layer, 235ºC for other layers. Bed temp must be 100ºC. I had to set mine to 108ºC to get 100ºC on the print surface.
4- Slice and print the part with 3mm-5mm Brim. Raft maybe necessary for huge parts.
5- let the part cool to room temp Completely, before attempting to remove it. The part just lifts as if it was never stuck to the bed! Do not use any tools. Not required and will damage the tape. If you are in a hurry, put the print plate in a freezer for 1/2 hour and then let it reach room temp. The expansion and contraction with loosen the bonding to the plate.
You'll get beautiful prints every time. no warping or lifting. No fighting to get the part off...
This has been learned the hard way and spools of trial and error. Enjoy.
For you. For me and an AnetA2, I use gluestick on glass, 70C bed and 230C hotend using Hatchbox ABS (several colors). Only fail I had was when the spool unseated itself and stopped feeding.
I have a mailbox flag holder up in PLA (first one was ABS) for 2 years (this will be the third year) of rain, snow, sleet, and burning hot sun as that part is in the evening sun as it faces directly at it in the southern USA sun (100f-105f is not uncommon) as a test and it is still as good as when I put it up. It was Justpla PLA (their abs sucked) so not sure if that company is still around or not. I much prefer ABS and have since stopped buying PLA as I replaced it with PETG and for ABS I have my eyes set on ASA if the stuff would even come down another 20% in price.
The Best Stooge, very interesting. What color PLA did you use for your mailbox? I've heard black is the worst.
orbitalair, I'll have to give glue stick another go. I used it with no success. Then again, my bed was at 100ºC. Will try it at 70ºC. Thanks for the tip.
Turquoise and I check up on it every six months and the previous ABS one was yellow and was not 100% ABS as it would not fully melt in Acetone and after two years had faded out pretty badly. The company went from great filament to horrible in two runs until they were forced out of business back in 2014 (I purchased it back in 2013 based on recommendations and reviews based upon those two previous runs).
edit: Here is exactly what I purchased back in Jan/2015 - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLI9OLW as that is from my past orders ledger on Amazon and has not faded nor degraded as I mentioned above.
edit: I was looking at my review in Feb on it and - Very very good PLA and it does ooze more than I am used to BUT it is purer is the reason. Smooth and just looks good.
Maybe it's my imagination but it looked to me like there were layer adhesion issues in the new orange ABS+ when we looked at the prints from the side.
Sometimes when I print at 0.3mm layer height with my 0.4mm nozzle, the layer above doesn't get smooshed down enough to the layer below, resulting in some areas not bonding enough. At 0.25mm layer height it's ok. The black ABS showed this issue as well but it was harder to see. I get this will all filaments at 0.3mm Z height.
Well, wrong print settings, apparently. It is not ABS+ problem
Video on printing ABS in enclosed chamber and how it can improve the warping is highly recommended !
I've been really lucky with almost zero warping. Got my first printer, put it in a grow tent, added 2 reptile lamps, and made a ABS acetone slurry. 110 bed and 240 nozzle and perfect prints with no warping. Although I am getting some blobs coming out the side and I can't seem to fix that even with upping the retractions hmmm
Only thing I use traditional ABS is for smooth models. PLA works great for mechanical parts.
Agreed, PLA and PETG are my go-to filaments.
Was just about to get the Markerfarm printer out and clean it up and also look into laser cutters for gaming terrain. Was expecting the usual overseas based RUclipss to show up on the search. SHOCK. An Australian based youtube channel that answers all my questions. Thanks Chris. Were is that patreon button.
Hi Darryl, Thanks very much for joining patreon! Glad to be here making these videos, in Australia :)
Slightly off topic, however, if you haven't done so already, try the eSun PLA Plus. I love it. It is stronger, very easy to print, sticks great, and looks very good. Take care and thank you for sharing.
Pete. How resistant is to weather that eSun PLA plus ?, does it deforms if you leave it under the sun? Normally PLA melt if you leave it in your car in a sunny day for sample. ABS resist a lot more heat than regular PLA
Just yesterday I reprinted parts of my x-carriage that are in proximity with the hotend with formfutura ABSpro. These parts were originally all PETG, but after a month of use, especially with higher temperatures, they are showing discoloration and deformation due to the heat. In this regard, ABS still has its use cases, and these newer formulas are easier than the old generic stuff. Even though I did print with a wide brim (IMHO the number one trick to reduce part warping), I was surprised how well the ABSpro performed, albeit I had to run my heated bed at its max around 100C. I guess power consumption on the long run can be factored in also considering ABS.
good work tech2c, really eager for you to reach the 40k subscriber milestone, keep up the great content
OK, you're definitely buying from the wrong shop if PETG is significantly more expensive than PLA and ABS. Here in Germany PETG costs 2-5 Euros (incl. VAT) more than PLA. (1kg PLA 21€, 1kg PETG 23€ at Schmelzbar, 1kg PLA 22€, 1kg PETG 27€ at DasFilament) I'm not sure about the ABS prices, because I never printed ABS before and I never will be. I have my printers in a room right next to my bedroom. So I can't have any toxic fumes there.
PETG prices are higher in Australia than PLA/ABS, at least for the esun brand. It could be said you're paying too much for PLA? Either way I agree about the toxic smell from ABS is not pleasant. Although I'd be cautious with any fumes from melting plastic, regardless if you can smell them or not.
i noticed a white powder on my hotend after printing a kilo of white PETG. very fine powder, much like printer toner, that concerns me more than fumes
In Estonia ABS starts around 12€ / kg, PLA starts around 13€ / kg and PETG 15€ / kg.
I buy most of my filament at Motedis.de. 1kg filament cost €16 no matter if it is PLA, ABS+, PETG or HIPS. It's branded "DevilDesign" - not sure if its considered a good brand or not, but I like printing with it.
You are paying more for your PLA's and ABS's so PETG prices aren't that far off. I am paying half of what you pay for PLA and ABS, but the cheapest PETG available is the same price as yours, so for me PETG is significantly more expensive. Its just a matter of perspective.
I never liked PLA. It transformed the making community into a 'print useless novelty crap that fills your shelves' company, because of it's insufficient properties, especially thermal wise. So it's great to see, that there's some advancement with ABS.
I like this human.
There are infinite uses of 3d printing... for instance I do a lot of fabrication and printing a template I can use to transfer over on a piece of metal is invaluable since I don't own a cnc. PLA work great for this because it's not exposed to UV. Now I want to start printing parts for the race car so I'm gonna have to move over to ABS for the extra heat protection... PETG isn't quite enough for what I need.
Not sure where you live, but in the US, Amazon Basics brand of PETG is $13 per KG from Amazon. eSun is about $20ish. Main downside of PETG is that it is sometimes blobby and it is often very hard to remove the support - probably due to amazing layer bonding. But yeah, while I did just finally get ABS to print decently after years of trying, I will probably not buy any more.
I notice the black arm is thinner than the orange one. Because of that, the black arm is prone to warp.
Hi i got one of those cheap refrigerators slash food heater that dont work verry good as a refrigerator so i was going to try it out to dry my tpu filaments on the heat setting about 4 rolls fit in there i was also going to use as a dry storage what do you think will it work what is tour opinion on this thank you
Have you had any problems with your PrintInZ Plate having bubbles in the surface after removing parts? I print PETG at 245c and 70c for the heated bed and it caused little bubbles on the surface. Doesn't quite affect anything but the bottom surface is mostly still flat. He has stopped selling the product all together for some reason...
Hi i print mostly with ABS on a g10 plate with hairspray, what is the print surface you are using here?
I'll stick with PETG. It's worth spending twice as much when you don't have to throw out half the prints. :)
I buy PETG cheaper than PLA and ABS. Although they're all close to $20/kg.
I almost exclusively use PETG. everything ABS wishes it could be. ease of printing, excellent self adhesion, nearly zero warping, no heated build chamber required, high strength, non brittle, no fumes. the PETG i buy costs the same as PLA.
Any idea what the glass transition temp is for this filament? I've been using it for awhile and it is definitely less prone to heat warping than PLA but still not good enough for thin wall RC airplanes in the hot Hawaii sun.
it should be at around 100deg Celcius as like any other ABS but funny enough I cannot find what exactly is its glass transition temp of the E sun one.
Also worth noting the density of abs is lower then pla so for quadcopter frames abs could be a good choice.
Hi Tech2C,
I have a question about your previous printer - the Prusa I3.
I am currently struggling to find an adequate setup for my heated bed. I could see that you used some sort of an aluminium bed - would you mind to elaborate on the exact components which you utilizied ?
Thanks in advance and keep up the good work,
Roy.
How does that printinZ plate stick to the heatbed? Just by that two clamps? Won't this make for a bad heat transfer, especially in the front, further from the clamps?
the high petg prices might be an Australian thing. in the us, pretty much all kinda of filament are in the $20-$25 range (petg, pla, abs).
Your lucky then. Stick with PETG (no pun intended...) :P
Interested until you said doesn't work well with acetone, abs is the material of choice for prop making due to its ease of sanding, acetone welding and smoothing, PLA is great for quick models or parts that don require much finish and I've just started using petg (to make my 1st quad) and it's great for ease of use and strength but nothing is as good as abs for props, just a massive pain in the bum to eliminate warping, even with an enclosure and PEI print surface
I'm going o give it a try because he didn't say it was immune to acetone, just less easily melted. In my mind this is potentially a good thing because pure ABS is a little too sensitive to acetone and that makes good smoothing on detailed parts more difficult because the ABS can melt it too much very rapidly and ruin the part. If this just reacts slower, it may yield better looking results, by giving more time to work with it.
yeah worth a try but its mostly bigger things i do with abs, just recently got a resin printer i can use for details
They both warped in the same corner. Check for backwash from the hotend fan. I recall someone used an thermal camera to create a map of the bed temp with the extruder stationary and switching it's fan on and off.
Does it fully melt with acetone? I haven't seen any low warp ABS that properly melts, for smoothing and for making slurry. At least gluing with acetone does work.
The slurry can get a bit painful, but once I discovered the blue glue sticks I have not had an ABS lift. I don't understand the push for PLA considering it is useless in real world applications. Modelling and maybe prototyping, seem to be the only uses for PLA.
I print a lot in ABS for my printer upgrades so when i use a enclosure they will not get soft. I am addicted to acetone smoothing parts even though they don't need to be which is one feature ABS has over all other plastics. Even using acetone to weld and fix printed parts is just awesome rather than reprinting a entire object i can just use a bit of acetone and weld it back together and repair it.
Can you show us what acetone does to it? Can you use it outdoors without the sun softening it like PLA?
Black pla does not have the same effect as other places has outside exposed to the sun.
The biggest problem with abs was not the bed adhesion (abs juice works sometimes even too well) or the smell, but the cracking on higher layers. This was absolute pain, and even though enclosed printer reduced the cracking there was obviously still stress in the layers which reduced the part strength significantly, the print quality was a bit rubbish and after the part cools down it does warp a bit.
That's a good point. Here I compared low, flat, but a fairly large piece as I normally have adhesion issues with ABS with these shapes.
I didn't hear you mention any enclosure and didn't see one in the vid. I haven't begun using ABS yet, but I've always been led to believe that a temperature controlled enclosure is essential for printing it.
hi,
is it possible to print containers to hold water with these 3d printers?
I can't see the cris-cross pattern on the old ABS coming through on the new ABS+ material. Maybe it's just the lighting.
Can sounds weird but in Portugal, the PLA it’s the cheapest filament that you can buy. One kg of PLA it’s less than 20 euros, ABS costs 20 or more euros and PETG costs more than 30 euros per kg.
I’ve started printed with ABS and I am surprised with the great results on my low quality 3d printer (anet a8). I manly print small parts but the most important rule is to use a brim. You should always use a brim to prevent warping! I print on a glass surface with air spray, and my temperatures for ABS are 240 and 100 on the heat bed. No cooling fan.
Other tips,: you need to calibrate the extruder for ABS (my low cost abs didn’t have an consistent diameter of 1,75 due to the low fabric process). I didn’t t have any enclosure, but I have an insulated heat bed. If you build an enclosure you can get better results
Traditional ABS has required special attention to limit warping, such as adding a brim, enclosing the printer, using ABS juice, etc. But we have these new ABS filaments that are low warp. That should mean we don't need to bend over backwards to assist the filament from warping/contracting. And it's the same price as regular ABS. If you print alot of ABS then try a roll of low-warp ABS and let me know your results.
I thought ABS was supposed to be printed with little (10%) to no cooling. Also if possible, use an enclosure to keep the heat in and the fumes able to be extracted with more control.
If ASA can be put the paces I would like to see that in comparison to ABS.
Should I get abs+ or petg then ?
Petg seems nice but I've always heard abs is better for mechanical and structural parts which is partly what I'm after, as well as temperature resistance.
Depends on exactly what you're going to print. PETG is just as easy to print as PLA, you can even use layer cooling for overhangs, no issues at all. Also it's tougher as the interlayer bonding is really strong unlike ABS. but it's quite a bit more flexible than ABS.
So t's not as rigid as ABS. I believe that using PETG for 3D printer parts will result in increased ghosting artifacts because at high speed the system will be a bit more "wobbly", but I haven't specifically tested them against each other like that.
for parts which will take abuse like quadcopter parts I think PETG will be better. it will bend and bounce and snap back to how it was where ABS will delaminate, But when you need precision and can't have any oscillation like 3d printer parts, I think ABS will do better.
PETG is highly prone to stringing. It can be "fixed" with higher fan setting, but it would significantly affect layer adhesion.
What's about ABS+ - After I started using it, I totally stopped buying regular ABS and particularly PLA.
With my PEI heated bed and enclosure it gives best results.
So, only ABS+ or PETG with slow fan.
Might I suggest you investigate the engineering filaments made by form futura such as titanx and the reformed rtitan (which is waste plastic from the extrusion lines which is re used) which have superb printing properties but are just as strong as ABS. They also have many other interesting filaments such as appolo and ABSpro
That is really smooth, I am just wondering what material your bed is?
Hay Tech2C I enjoy watching the clips. Is there a way to construct your design so that the print/cut area would be the size of a A3 sheet?
Someone on an amazon review said that esun abs+ is more like an polymaker pla and its not possible to Smooth with acetone. It seems to be not very rigid also.
Cost? I've been trying Dupont zytel nylon at around $90.00 a kg.
What about shrinkage? Does it produce a dimension-ally accurate part?
Using a brimm should help prevent warping from the build plate
Do you have a link for that bed plate? Have a heated bed and get sick of glass and hairspray.
You can get the PrintinZ plate from their website www.printinz.com/
Thanks Chris. Just putting together a parts list for a printer and will also design a laser cutter based on your 3d printer design. You may get annoyed at all the questions about to come your way. :-)
I would like to see the results with the bed at 110 C. This temperature is what I have used for seven years.
What about strength / durable? I've seen huge differences in ABS from the same roll! 2 colour roll, black and yellow. The black is very resilient with some flex where as the yellow is very brittle in comparison.
I would hope the manufacturer would supply that information on thier website. It shouldn't be up to us customers to test every colour of every filament type.
Hi, what version of Marlin do you use?
That was a pretty good print for generic ABS. That print in z plate must be good. I used Formfutura TitanX ABS(3dfilaprint ABS-X). That comes with a full data sheet.
I have a roll of Formfutura ApolloX ASA which sticks to the PrintinZ plate very well. Manufacturers that actually supply datasheets with their filaments are top shelf in my opinion.
Maybe it's just the camera, but I thought I certainly saw that the parts from the Black ABS were thinner. Start looking at 7:28
Charliebrm1 I think he stopped it before finish, which is why you can see the fill pattern.
annealed PLA is the best thing ever. Have you tried that out yet its awesome
i got a cheapo Tronxy P802
and i must say , after i build ma enclosure
i never had a problem with ABS anymore
i put ma bed at 100°C , and i have 0 worries about the part sticking to the bed
i do still alternate between ABS-PLA-PETG though
i find ABS to have a wee ruffer surface finish compared to PLA & PETG
but it's the cheapest of the 3 lol
and lighter aswell ,
so , 1kg of ABS ha's more filament on the spool then PLA & PETG
so yea ! still whurt it 4sure
Boa noite ... onde posso achar seu merlin atualizado?
2.50 - I've never looked back after enabling auto-levelling on my HyperCube (thanks again, Chris!).
Set it up once, and never worry about the bed adjustment screws slipping ever again! The time and $ spent on wrecking printing surfaces (I use a "PEI" stick-on) are worth it, let alone the aborted prints.
Tom has the auto-levelling tutorial to watch - ruclips.net/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/видео.html
I get the print surface from Banggood - www.banggood.com/5pcs-220x220mm-Plastic-Hot-Bed-Stickers-For-3D-Printer-Wanhao-i3-p-1158028.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
have to say, this is the best layer p0rn I've ever seen a 3d printer do, that first layer is GORGEOUS and the black abs sides look AMAZING
yes i know this video is old but I keep coming back to it, just look at those layers who wouldn't?
I really struggle with ABS. But I just print most everything with PETG now.
Esun Petg is only $25.99 through amazon.
You live in Perth also??
The object need to be at least 1cm to tell how much the abs plus has improved.
Has anybody tried to make a PLA mold to then make an ABS part? I think it's a good idea, especially for the Peon frame, as I brake some part at least once a month ;)
Bad idea, pla deform at 60 celcius, abs need more than 110 celcius, son if yuo put hot abs its going to deform the pla mold
Is abs + biodegradable?
Matter hackers build series abs sticks to the bed very nicely
How is the name of the white plate you are using spelled?
Lev Rusakov PrintInZ. Google finds it.
about "toxic" fumes? different from "normal" ABS?
What bed is that?
What was your room temp at the time of printing
28c. It's summer down under, with a window open to fumigate the air...
the amount of infill influence warping also
Hey mate! Any new content in the works?
i just want to make an ironman helmet that i can have for display that wont sag after 2 years of sitting lol
Did you notice how the smell is? Hopefully by leaving the room and coming back later.
The esun abs+ orange didn't smell as bad as the black ABS, but it still left an unpleasant odor in the room.
That is unfortunate, its the thing that keeps me away from ABS.
Why does the black part look thinner than the eSun ABS Plus part?
PLA+ FTW
95% of time you don't need ABS.
ABS has inferior mechanical spec than most others materials included PLA, is less measurements accurate, is difficult to print. Is not eco friendly.
You need ABS only if you need:
- better temperature resistance
- Lasy and cheap finish aka Smoothing with acetone
- increase polution with all your failed prints
Can't argue with you. I agree...
" Unknown ABS" /"Traditional ABS" is not very helpful...what was the source of it?
ebay
Does still smell bad
Meh. Try using a brim.
i use ABS in my up mini , you need a chamber to print ABS correctly
Meow meow
I use 5£ a kilo 3mm abs and don't have any of these problems lol I don't know what your doing lol
90c is too low where is your brim
Just use glass and acetone
In short.. No , ABS er crap
U don't know how to print if your cheap abs warps its more for master printers not wannabes
That is the most childish and ridiculous statement I have read in a long time. Engage brain next time.