NEW! USE A ZIP TIE TO TIE THE TRIGGER BLADE BACK TO THE STOCK. www.harborfreight.com/search?q=black+zip+ties&category=2388¤t=1 If the lever has only 3/8 of an inch gap, from its front, when slack, that is a sear jam. Use a zip tie, then remove trigger screw totally and jiggle the gun. KEY POINTS - OTHER JAMS BREECH JAM ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.html LOADING RAMP JAM. ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html A GENERAL DISASSEMBLY VIDEO DOESN'T WORK. Newbies think, "I will just take out all the screws and take it apart!" Trying to clear a jam like that ends in tears....bye-bye Ryder!!
another really important issue people can't solve is here on the sear at 2:25 you show it. I do work on proper firearms and this is less an issue but was inspecting my nephews RR1938 for him noticed the trigger assembly right at the point you mention "Catch point" you rotate the sear bar down, what can happen is that gets shifted UP - on other firearms this might be called a toothed rack. but this bar or rack that is toothed MUST BE UNDER the protrustion. IF you don't, then whatever you are referring to as the antibear trap has no way to function. This is why on another video i was hoping you would describe the fail you are trying to explain first bc in this scenario its unique in that the trigger can function just fine. there's space. the plunger just has no way to ratchet. I couldn't find many people delving into this but a couple of your videos hit ancillary issues really well which led me to take a look at the sear bar (apologies if that's not the schematic name just using typical gun jargon but the toothed rack maybe). found a couple ppl online and i think most just call their gun dead when this happens but it's a strange failure that i would wager is from far too much force cocking the gun which forces the rack over the metal protrusion you are referring to at 2:25
Thank you for your troubleshooting advice. Well done. The bear trap trigger can be a big pain in the ass. A few get hurt from the original trigger design that worked flawlessly for years and everyone else pays the price for a new safety feature that complicates gun operation and causes the gun to malfunction/jam more frequently.
Felix, thank you for writing polite, well-written comments. Yes, my old Buck had no ABT, and I had zero backside jams. So you know, a Ryder Dragon, Cobalt327, wastes no time and uses a Dremel tool to cut off the ABT arm. That is an option for you. A Ryder with a trap door on top to flip open for breech access, and a rod underneath to tap put BB jams would be great. Daisy should lose the ABT, and tie a cardboard warning to the lever not to put a hand on the stock when cocking. Like this 🚫
Thank you. I had a plunger jam. So I took my gun apart twice before I caught on about the seven clicks. I put the lever back in and got the seventh click. Gun fired
Douglas, thanks for showing class and gratitude. Old-timers know none of this was a problem when ABT was absent. As far is BB jams, if they changed the Ryder to a screw in barrel and feeder - like the Daisy 25 - that would be better. Try to shoot NEW BBs like Daisy Match to avoid a serious breech jam.
Mine is jammed and i have been working on this thing for a few days but holding the trigger and removing the screw does not cause it to fire. Its still hung up. I dont have a hook to check as you said. But i dont even sew it in there when removing the plunger. Im desperate please help
Valerie, yes, these guns can be such enjoyable stress relievers. But the way they are made now is a headache. They used to be like the Daisy 25 - EASY to fix and clear jams. Just a hint on classical gun that was brought back. THERE ARE THREE MAJOR JAMS to diagnos wirh the Ryder. Hopefully, your trigger did NOT get sucked inside. PARTIALLY removing the screw and pulling the trigger can work, but now I say to ANCHOR it using a zip tie. Otherwise, if the screw is removed and it is an ABT jam, the trigger is sicked inside. I have a fix video for that, BUT it gets much harder. Let me put a list of video links together. Please check to see if your trigger got sucked inside. It is slanted way back and you can't cock the lever at all. Your best case is you have a BB breech jam. Please check your trigger.
Valerie, here are links I promised in my first response (please review that) Your best outcome here is just a fake jam easy-peezy. The second best flub is a loading ramp jam. A BB breech jam is characterized by being a MOSTLY slack lever and just one or two clicks. The trigger does engage (piston sear grabs the plunger). But the jammed barrel BB just goes CLICK. This fix is touch and go. It only works on mildly bad NEW BBs. Mangled reused BBs means RIP. ruclips.net/video/Ay8oSXlhNWY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.html
Great question. If your trigger didn't get sucked inside the frame, you got lucky, and it was a BB breech jam. To avoid your trigger getting sucked inside, make sure you cock it SEVEN CLICKS before you think it is jammed. If you have a slack lever and SLACK trigger, make sure to zip tie your trigger in place before removing the screw. ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.htmlsi=eVMU9jcVYcuDjsLG ruclips.net/video/yAO-GOvolYQ/видео.htmlsi=AXJo86tK1sLtC71u
Hey daisy fanatic ive gotten my gun like two days ago and i thought that it was possibly messed up by it not shooting after i cocked it and instead of seeing one of your videos i unfortunately went straight to trying to see the issue inside of the gun and me and someone i know have been working on it for a little while but even though i found the triggers issue and put it back to normal when i tried putting everything back together the cocking lever would keep just hitting this metal piece inside the gun which is in between two sections of the hole the lever goes in and for some reason i cannot figure out how to get the cocking lever back to normal and its the only way the screw can fit where the lever goes so im wondering what type of issue is it and is it because im misplacing the bear trap thing inside the gun or something else. But help would be appreciated since im very confused 😭
Holy, great description! Sounds like you just need to swing around to installing the trigger correctly. You are almost there👌 ruclips.net/video/2kanWZUJG-c/видео.html After putting back in the trigger (again), if your gun cocks, but the trigger just goes CLICK, you have a BB jam. Got a video for that.
2nd reply: remember that your ABT arm (anti brear trap) could have been pulled out from its catch point during your fix. That makes it impossible to cock. Snap it back under.
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 thanks for all the info! But one more question i got is how is the inside of the lever slot supposed to look? When im looking into the lever slot you cant completely see anything at first look except that metal piece seperating two parts of it, i just wanna make sure thats normal and that its not because something got out of place from the slot and thats why the lever cant cock
Make sure the trigger shelf is EVEN with the frame. It can get bent UP and IN during jam. Check it. Watch these videos for how the plunger looks and how the shelf should look. DON'T YANK THE ANCHOR. ruclips.net/video/6CLg_r_NbYk/видео.html ruclips.net/video/0uCgA848t28/видео.html
Hello I’ve been watching your videos for quite some time now and I really like them I’m impressed on how much knowledge you have on daisy BB guns, I currently have a Buck 105, I’ve been having it for about 2 years now, I’ve shot thousands of bbs through it and it’s been great I’m thinking about buying another gun I’ve been trying to decide between the daisy 880 the daisy 35, and the red Ryder I’m leaning more towards the 35 and red Ryder because I prefer to shoot bbs, I mostly just shoot at cans and my buck is great for that but I want something a bit bigger and more accurate, not that I really need something extremely accurate because I don’t shoot from very far only from about 10-15 yards but I want something that’s capable of shooting at longer distances just in case and I know the red Ryder and buck are very similar but I’m sure I’ll be more accurate with the RR because of the longer barrel and also the 35 because it has much more power and the videos I’ve watched say it’s really good as well. It’s difficult to decide because I’m already familiar with the buck and know how to maintain it and the buck is really similar to the red ryder but I also want the 35 because of the extra power not that I really need it but it’s nice to have, I also like that it can shoot pellets as well, I don’t really mind the price because I think they’re both fairly priced for what they are, so I just wanted to ask what you recommend for me?
Diego, get the DAISY 35👍💪 ruclips.net/video/05y9BukSfdg/видео.html The video above is for the 1100 but covers your 35. JSB Heavy pellets turn your 35 into a fairly accurate slug shooter. Like a shotgun slug, they are very stable in flight! See what they do in the video! It is like your 35 has rifling. On the 35 you go 6 pumps for satisfying JSB accuracy and THUMP up to fifteen yards! For BBs, stick with 3-4 pumps for 35 power and accuracy combo. ♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️ The Red Ryder has 3 MAJOR JAMS, and 5 malfunctions, to contend with at all times. If you want a KICK BUTT youth gun that is fast to shoot, easy to maitain and fix, and trouble free compared to RR - go 2840. The 2840, shooting pistol wadcutters (7 to 7.4 grains), is crazy accurate for youth gun. BB jams a snap to clear. IT IS NEARLY SILENT AND PURE STEALTH 🤘🏻
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 thank you so much for your response I’ll be looking into the 2840 as well. Also what oil do you recommend for the 35? And do u oil it the same way as the 880? If so do you have any videos of you doing that?
Same way as Big Daddy 880. Remember the 35 and 2840 are the children of the 880 (closely related internals). I got the earlier version of the 2840. The 1910. It is simply brown a version. Because of the RUclips politics, I will be brief, but I used the 1910 with a light hollow point when a pest bird was on a branch around 10 yards away. But a house was in the back ground. I felt a youth rifle was best and settled for chasing it off. So I have a go with the 1910 and hollow point. It knocked it out of the tree. Unexpected. It did get away after shaking it off, BUT if I had had follow up BBs or the tin near by.... Anyway, the new age single pumps are really fun, and they can surprise!
Poor design for sure. This is the problem with two Daisys in one year. I used to be a big fan of Daisy for many years. I even coach a Daisy shooting Team for several years with the J Cs. Now this is a Great example of China CRAP. Thanks for the info.
Adrian, what happened is that adding the ABT confused shooters. They cock it, just short of hitting the piston sear, think the gun is jammed, then attemp disassembly. THE MAINSPRING SUCKS THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY INSIDE. Please consider the Daisy 25. With the ability to unscrew the barrel and loading system, repairing it is a snap. The 25 is a time warp back to when Daisy CARED about their spring BB guns being trouble-free or easy to clear a malfunction. Also, I'm currently exploring the Daisy 499. I likely will shoot a series on it. Its price does seem outrageous to some - now averaging over $200 retail - but it is BETTER engineered. I got a better deal. What I can declare so far is that the 499 has NO ABT - that is one headache removed. And like the 25, the 499 barrel CAN be removed to clear a BB breech jam. No such luck on the current Ryder design.
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 Thanks for your guidance and advice. I would love to have a reliable BB gun that I can enjoy and service as needed. I have an old Daisy that is over 65 or 75 years old. It's been to hell and back. It still functions but does not shoot that well anymore. Where can I buy a BB gun that works? THANKS!
Ok, I won't go all in on the 499 yet. I have to explore it. Also, that will cost you over $200. I got a better deal, but it is still at least 3 times the price of a Ryder. The 25 is spring-loaded. As fast as you work that pump, a BB shoots. Aim up down and all around - the BB shoots. No dry firing (until empty). BB jams are easy to clear. Barrel cleaning is easy. Remember to oil the barrel threading every few hundred shots, or it can get stuck. www.daisy.com/product/model-25-pump-bb-gun/ www.pyramydair.com/product/daisy-model-25-pump-action-bb-gun?m=2057
NEW! USE A ZIP TIE TO TIE THE TRIGGER BLADE BACK TO THE STOCK.
www.harborfreight.com/search?q=black+zip+ties&category=2388¤t=1
If the lever has only 3/8 of an inch gap, from its front, when slack, that is a sear jam. Use a zip tie, then remove trigger screw totally and jiggle the gun.
KEY POINTS - OTHER JAMS
BREECH JAM
ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.html
LOADING RAMP JAM.
ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html
A GENERAL DISASSEMBLY VIDEO DOESN'T WORK. Newbies think, "I will just take out all the screws and take it apart!" Trying to clear a jam like that ends in tears....bye-bye Ryder!!
Interesting tips!
This trigger is so much more complicated than the old one piece trigger with a return spring in the stock!
Very true!
another really important issue people can't solve is here on the sear at 2:25 you show it. I do work on proper firearms and this is less an issue but was inspecting my nephews RR1938 for him noticed the trigger assembly right at the point you mention "Catch point" you rotate the sear bar down, what can happen is that gets shifted UP - on other firearms this might be called a toothed rack. but this bar or rack that is toothed MUST BE UNDER the protrustion. IF you don't, then whatever you are referring to as the antibear trap has no way to function. This is why on another video i was hoping you would describe the fail you are trying to explain first bc in this scenario its unique in that the trigger can function just fine. there's space. the plunger just has no way to ratchet. I couldn't find many people delving into this but a couple of your videos hit ancillary issues really well which led me to take a look at the sear bar (apologies if that's not the schematic name just using typical gun jargon but the toothed rack maybe). found a couple ppl online and i think most just call their gun dead when this happens but it's a strange failure that i would wager is from far too much force cocking the gun which forces the rack over the metal protrusion you are referring to at 2:25
Thank you for your troubleshooting advice. Well done. The bear trap trigger can be a big pain in the ass. A few get hurt from the original trigger design that worked flawlessly for years and everyone else pays the price for a new safety feature that complicates gun operation and causes the gun to malfunction/jam more frequently.
Felix, thank you for writing polite, well-written comments.
Yes, my old Buck had no ABT, and I had zero backside jams.
So you know, a Ryder Dragon, Cobalt327, wastes no time and uses a Dremel tool to cut off the ABT arm. That is an option for you.
A Ryder with a trap door on top to flip open for breech access, and a rod underneath to tap put BB jams would be great. Daisy should lose the ABT, and tie a cardboard warning to the lever not to put a hand on the stock when cocking. Like this 🚫
Thank you. I had a plunger jam. So I took my gun apart twice before I caught on about the seven clicks. I put the lever back in and got the seventh click. Gun fired
Douglas, thanks for showing class and gratitude. Old-timers know none of this was a problem when ABT was absent.
As far is BB jams, if they changed the Ryder to a screw in barrel and feeder - like the Daisy 25 - that would be better.
Try to shoot NEW BBs like Daisy Match to avoid a serious breech jam.
Mine is jammed and i have been working on this thing for a few days but holding the trigger and removing the screw does not cause it to fire. Its still hung up. I dont have a hook to check as you said. But i dont even sew it in there when removing the plunger. Im desperate please help
Valerie, yes, these guns can be such enjoyable stress relievers. But the way they are made now is a headache. They used to be like the Daisy 25 - EASY to fix and clear jams. Just a hint on classical gun that was brought back.
THERE ARE THREE MAJOR JAMS to diagnos wirh the Ryder.
Hopefully, your trigger did NOT get sucked inside. PARTIALLY removing the screw and pulling the trigger can work, but now I say to ANCHOR it using a zip tie. Otherwise, if the screw is removed and it is an ABT jam, the trigger is sicked inside. I have a fix video for that, BUT it gets much harder.
Let me put a list of video links together.
Please check to see if your trigger got sucked inside. It is slanted way back and you can't cock the lever at all. Your best case is you have a BB breech jam.
Please check your trigger.
Valerie, here are links I promised in my first response (please review that)
Your best outcome here is just a fake jam easy-peezy.
The second best flub is a loading ramp jam.
A BB breech jam is characterized by being a MOSTLY slack lever and just one or two clicks. The trigger does engage (piston sear grabs the plunger). But the jammed barrel BB just goes CLICK. This fix is touch and go. It only works on mildly bad NEW BBs. Mangled reused BBs means RIP.
ruclips.net/video/Ay8oSXlhNWY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.html
What if I already pulled the screw out of the trigger and didn't mold the trigger?
Great question. If your trigger didn't get sucked inside the frame, you got lucky, and it was a BB breech jam.
To avoid your trigger getting sucked inside, make sure you cock it SEVEN CLICKS before you think it is jammed.
If you have a slack lever and SLACK trigger, make sure to zip tie your trigger in place before removing the screw.
ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.htmlsi=eVMU9jcVYcuDjsLG
ruclips.net/video/yAO-GOvolYQ/видео.htmlsi=AXJo86tK1sLtC71u
Hey daisy fanatic ive gotten my gun like two days ago and i thought that it was possibly messed up by it not shooting after i cocked it and instead of seeing one of your videos i unfortunately went straight to trying to see the issue inside of the gun and me and someone i know have been working on it for a little while but even though i found the triggers issue and put it back to normal when i tried putting everything back together the cocking lever would keep just hitting this metal piece inside the gun which is in between two sections of the hole the lever goes in and for some reason i cannot figure out how to get the cocking lever back to normal and its the only way the screw can fit where the lever goes so im wondering what type of issue is it and is it because im misplacing the bear trap thing inside the gun or something else. But help would be appreciated since im very confused 😭
Holy, great description!
Sounds like you just need to swing around to installing the trigger correctly.
You are almost there👌
ruclips.net/video/2kanWZUJG-c/видео.html
After putting back in the trigger (again), if your gun cocks, but the trigger just goes CLICK, you have a BB jam. Got a video for that.
2nd reply: remember that your ABT arm (anti brear trap) could have been pulled out from its catch point during your fix.
That makes it impossible to cock.
Snap it back under.
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 thank youuuu!!! :)
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 thanks for all the info! But one more question i got is how is the inside of the lever slot supposed to look? When im looking into the lever slot you cant completely see anything at first look except that metal piece seperating two parts of it, i just wanna make sure thats normal and that its not because something got out of place from the slot and thats why the lever cant cock
Make sure the trigger shelf is EVEN with the frame. It can get bent UP and IN during jam. Check it.
Watch these videos for how the plunger looks and how the shelf should look. DON'T YANK THE ANCHOR.
ruclips.net/video/6CLg_r_NbYk/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/0uCgA848t28/видео.html
Hello I’ve been watching your videos for quite some time now and I really like them I’m impressed on how much knowledge you have on daisy BB guns, I currently have a Buck 105, I’ve been having it for about 2 years now, I’ve shot thousands of bbs through it and it’s been great I’m thinking about buying another gun I’ve been trying to decide between the daisy 880 the daisy 35, and the red Ryder I’m leaning more towards the 35 and red Ryder because I prefer to shoot bbs, I mostly just shoot at cans and my buck is great for that but I want something a bit bigger and more accurate, not that I really need something extremely accurate because I don’t shoot from very far only from about 10-15 yards but I want something that’s capable of shooting at longer distances just in case and I know the red Ryder and buck are very similar but I’m sure I’ll be more accurate with the RR because of the longer barrel and also the 35 because it has much more power and the videos I’ve watched say it’s really good as well. It’s difficult to decide because I’m already familiar with the buck and know how to maintain it and the buck is really similar to the red ryder but I also want the 35 because of the extra power not that I really need it but it’s nice to have, I also like that it can shoot pellets as well, I don’t really mind the price because I think they’re both fairly priced for what they are, so I just wanted to ask what you recommend for me?
Diego, get the DAISY 35👍💪
ruclips.net/video/05y9BukSfdg/видео.html
The video above is for the 1100 but covers your 35. JSB Heavy pellets turn your 35 into a fairly accurate slug shooter. Like a shotgun slug, they are very stable in flight! See what they do in the video!
It is like your 35 has rifling. On the 35 you go 6 pumps for satisfying JSB accuracy and THUMP up to fifteen yards!
For BBs, stick with 3-4 pumps for 35 power and accuracy combo.
♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️♦️
The Red Ryder has 3 MAJOR JAMS, and 5 malfunctions, to contend with at all times.
If you want a KICK BUTT youth gun that is fast to shoot, easy to maitain and fix, and trouble free compared to RR - go 2840.
The 2840, shooting pistol wadcutters (7 to 7.4 grains), is crazy accurate for youth gun. BB jams a snap to clear. IT IS NEARLY SILENT AND PURE STEALTH 🤘🏻
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 thank you so much for your response I’ll be looking into the 2840 as well. Also what oil do you recommend for the 35? And do u oil it the same way as the 880? If so do you have any videos of you doing that?
Same way as Big Daddy 880. Remember the 35 and 2840 are the children of the 880 (closely related internals).
I got the earlier version of the 2840. The 1910. It is simply brown a version.
Because of the RUclips politics, I will be brief, but I used the 1910 with a light hollow point when a pest bird was on a branch around 10 yards away.
But a house was in the back ground. I felt a youth rifle was best and settled for chasing it off. So I have a go with the 1910 and hollow point. It knocked it out of the tree. Unexpected. It did get away after shaking it off, BUT if I had had follow up BBs or the tin near by....
Anyway, the new age single pumps are really fun, and they can surprise!
ruclips.net/video/GW-f-iX1cKI/видео.html
Poor design for sure. This is the problem with two Daisys in one year. I used to be a big fan of Daisy for many years. I even coach a Daisy shooting Team for several years with the J Cs. Now this is a Great example of China CRAP. Thanks for the info.
Adrian, what happened is that adding the ABT confused shooters. They cock it, just short of hitting the piston sear, think the gun is jammed, then attemp disassembly.
THE MAINSPRING SUCKS THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY INSIDE.
Please consider the Daisy 25. With the ability to unscrew the barrel and loading system, repairing it is a snap.
The 25 is a time warp back to when Daisy CARED about their spring BB guns being trouble-free or easy to clear a malfunction.
Also, I'm currently exploring the Daisy 499. I likely will shoot a series on it. Its price does seem outrageous to some - now averaging over $200 retail - but it is BETTER engineered. I got a better deal.
What I can declare so far is that the 499 has NO ABT - that is one headache removed.
And like the 25, the 499 barrel CAN be removed to clear a BB breech jam. No such luck on the current Ryder design.
@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 Thanks for your guidance and advice. I would love to have a reliable BB gun that I can enjoy and service as needed. I have an old Daisy that is over 65 or 75 years old. It's been to hell and back. It still functions but does not shoot that well anymore. Where can I buy a BB gun that works? THANKS!
Ok, I won't go all in on the 499 yet. I have to explore it. Also, that will cost you over $200. I got a better deal, but it is still at least 3 times the price of a Ryder.
The 25 is spring-loaded. As fast as you work that pump, a BB shoots. Aim up down and all around - the BB shoots. No dry firing (until empty).
BB jams are easy to clear. Barrel cleaning is easy. Remember to oil the barrel threading every few hundred shots, or it can get stuck.
www.daisy.com/product/model-25-pump-bb-gun/
www.pyramydair.com/product/daisy-model-25-pump-action-bb-gun?m=2057