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Patrick, you got it! The Buck has a short barrel and fixed rear sight. The power plant and trigger unit are interchangable with the Red Ryder. The receiver area is identical. With the current Buck, they simply shrunk the barrel and stock. This also meant a different lever.

If the gun was not jammed, push up on the blade, and it should pop out.

Glad it was helpful!

The .22 ball ammo should be fun. But understand the gamo balls only really deliver BB accuracy. For a smoothbore 35, lead balls really are a no-go because they don't grip any rifling and roll down the barrel. As it is, the ball ammo has to be sorted and tested on the 880 by seeing if they roll down the barrel. So you don't dry fire it in the field. Smart Shot by H&N is for BB repeaters.

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 I didn’t know about the H&N Smartshot .177 BBs. What do you think about using them in a Daisy 35 pump and also the 12g CO2 powered Daisy 74 repeater? Are the H&N Smartshot BBs that much different from the Crosman Copperheads that are also coated in copper?

On the comparison to Copperheads, the Smart Shot doesn't stick to the magnet. But they don't bounce back at dangerous velocity. Smart Shot are PURPOSELY undersized to shoot in repeaters. But they can't rely on a magnet, or they will quickly roll down the barrel. So, no on a Red Ryder or any Daisy pump gun. In the right repeaters, they are more accurate than Copperheads and less dangerous to the user. www.pyramydair.com/product/air-venturi-h-n-smart-shot-177-cal-7-4-grains-copper-plated-lead-bbs?p=1440

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 does spraying 3-IN-ONE Lock Dry Lube on the BBs, both copper and lead help in any way, like it does with pellets? For example, JSB pellets come lubed, while Crosman Premiere pellets do not, however, people who did tests and sprayed the Crosman Premiere pellets with 3-IN-ONE Lock Dry Lube found that after spraying them and leaving them out to dry, those pellets performed as well as the JSB pellets.

Try it. I know I have used regular WD-40 on Copperheads to stop rust. They shot fine. I do LOVE DRY lube for 🔒 because it doesn't draw dirt like wet lube. I prefer Blaster dry lube. As far as lube on lead balls, test and see.

Patrick, thanks for giving smart, civilized criticism. I agree with much of what you say. A vital loading piece for the model 12 is a clear plastic loader. Mine broke. I bought a 2nd model 12 but use it sparingly because that part could break again. The latest model 12 does have a wood stock. On the Ryder jamming, they used to have a removable shotube setup like the Model 25. If you go with the Model 25, you fire AS FAST YOU CAN WORK THE PUMP😇. NO dry firing or misfiring like you talked about. I am now actively trying to shift folks to the 25. I had one dude say he has been through TWO Ryders this year! I made the case for the 25. The 2840 is a FAR superior youth gun, but not a little springer. Thanks again for not being a savage and losing your temper like others who are upset.

Patrick, here is a help video for the Ryder loading issues. It doesn't guarantee no dry firing, but it does DRASTICALLY increase reliable shooting. ruclips.net/video/qFb13cG3a5I/видео.html

www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-16-oz-Air-Compressor-Oil-HDA10700AV/100096995

Patrick, if you are referring to Restomod Ryders, yes, those are excellent guns! Cobalt 327 PROVIDES his springs to Shane for his deluxe Red Ryders. The wood work make those special Ryders! youtube.com/@restomoddaisy?si=AOr5p8Es6hHMa5QS

William, first happy holidays. Hopefully, your area of Britian is festive. The DX17 has an airtube, like a Red Ryder, that can mangle pellets. Look down the barrel with magnifier and light, and you can see it. So you SEAT a pellet with a pen. The tube will not contact it. Try for light weight wadcutters like 7 grains. I actually consider it a waste of pellets, but if you find pellets intriguing here, it is different.

@ Happy Holidays indeed my friend!! The pistol came with a little plastic tool that pushes thing’s slightly inward and is very useful for the flighted darts… i think as you say.. pellets are a bit of a waste of time… but… I just wondered if this is commonplace or whether I had a one off… i find it more fun with bb’s as they can be kept flowing more quickly…. i had a good afternoon plinking yesterday and will be taking the pistol and pellet catcher around to my girlfriends for some more target practice…I found that the plastic pellets that i bought are ideal and reusable… but … lead just don’t fire so are a waste of time… bb’s at targets and darts at my umarex dartboard are the way…. i found it shoots high at indoor targets… but could probably find the right distance outdoors for it to be accurate… i’ve mounted a laser which i shall zero in over the next week or so… all in all i’m very happy with it for what it cost me and would like to collect all of the other springers in the “carnival” genre…. i’d definitely like a daisy 880 rifle too…

@ also… followed your video for oiling… did the piston, trigger and trigger sear…. it’s running like a dream…

Try this fix: ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html

Brian, nice to hear from you. I want to thank you again for the backup on the Legacy. There are folks preaching owners to pump those guns twelve times. You and a few in-the-know fix-it guys know that it means a broken Legecy. The Legacy on 8 pumps max is good enough, even for cottontails. I personally like the Legacy with heavy wadcutters on 5 or 6 pumps. You may want to read the comment by Rex - he is a veteran who REALLY KNOWS the 499 and Ryder platforms. I'm new to the 499, but I've learned my share and will keep learning about it.

They are magical!

Thank you! Cheers! Shane, I wish you and your business continued success!

Rex, thanks for being a polite veteran airgunner and sharing your knowledge. It helps many here!

Alfred, if you read Rex in comments (obviously a knowledgeable old-timer), you learn quite a bit. I'm kicking around doing 2 videos - one on accuracy and one explaining the trigger more.

I really do enjoy your videos ​@@daisy880fanaticfixit9

​@daisy880fanaticfixit9 i have watch your videos on the umarex dx17. I have now 2 of them and the daisy powerline 430 and the Crossman 1911 classic

You are seriously into air pistols. That's cool!😎

Right on! Cheers!

Paul, have fun. Just keep expectations in the carnival universe. Stand back at four or five yards and kick around pop cans. With mine, I aim slightly left.

That is an older video, and I was told by an old timer to leave up the 1018 videos. I considered taking them all down. If you want to know VERY WELL why I backed off this product, please see my 1018 breakage video in my Short library.

Raymond, if you are asking for OEM seals (Daisy approved parts), they are now online for fast order. They switched to online ordering, so folks quit getting ripped off by Ebay operators charging up to 1000% MARK UP. www.daisy.com/product/o-ring-seal-kit-for-model-880-and-901/ Order a few kits to make the shipping worth it. The video Danco kit is 880 compatible with nitrile rings - but no chamber seal.

Nope. Amber, just grab TIGHTLY the barrel with your free hand pull up hard on your lever.. If you do just like the video, gun on its back, and PUSH forward, you will hear the final 7th click. Taking it apart because of ABT confusion causes the mainspring to suck the trigger inside by the anti-bear trap. Very few fix it.

Glad it helped!

Thanks for showing class and gratitude. You have the right idea💡 I have some very basic repair videos for the OTHER Ryder jams. The videos for the backside jams get differing responses. The one showing blue/green Ryder is for KIDS. But then older men get angry because they think I'm being condescending. Taking apart the gun for newbies many times equals R.I.P. Ryder. Never works again. To avoid the #1 KILLER, please use only NEW BBs and GREAT ammo like Daisy Match or Black Diamond. Breech jams are very touch and go. The Ryder doesn't have a removable barrel like the 25 or 499.

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 These things are not built with disassembly in mind! It was my fathers and I couldn't bring myself to take it apart anyway. Also it was the first gun I learned to shoot with. Again thank you!

William, your dad was right. The latest version of the G10 by Marksman - the 1018 - has major problems. Terrible trigger and more. The DX17 has a better designed trigger for a carnival gun BB pistol. I don't normally do negative reviews because it draws ATTACKS from the offended company. But I had to for the 1018. Please check my Short library on my channel. Very fast 1018 video to the point. My DX-17 has been perfect except for one sear jam. Lubing the trigger parts will prevent that. Have fun with darts! Cheers!

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9Sorry for my late reply… just seen this… Yeah due to UK gun laws… I’m still waiting for my pistol to arrive… but it will be very soon and Thank you for wishing me well… (I do intend to have fun ….. with darts on the dartboard and paper targets in a little pellet trap)….. I have mobility issues …. so a lower powered “carnival” class pistol will be perfect for indoor use when I can’t get out…. tbh…. Umarex have some fantastic and affordable pistols…. I really like the look of the Strike Point pneumatic and their little co2 bb gun (The XBG) ……

Austin, it IS a 35. An 880 has a lever handle like the Red Ryder. It has a loop you grab. The Daisy 35 has a STRAIGHT block pump arm.

Seth, what is your goal? Taking the time to make a compressor means you want a new mainspring OR entire plunger assembly. The How-to video is under "more," and if you have a table saw, it will go very fast.

Sir, if the post in back broke off. That isn't your fault. But the gun is done if it broke. The diecast metal needs to be a tool steel like 4140 steel. If you are simply trying to re-establish your silde, line up the hole in the spring stop so it catches the post lock bar. Use the tip of a pen to line up the mating hole. It should GLIDE straight on.

William, thanks for the comment. In the eternal debate between silicone lube or mineral oil lube for air guns, the BB spring guns are their OWN universe. The nitrile rubber seals in these low power guns are not harmed by the clean white mineral oil. The Germans say to use their mineral oil lube product on the rod or spring guide. Ballistol is as least as good. For magnums like PCPs and break barrels (even lower power break barrels), airgun grade silicone is a must-have. Mineral oil, a petroleum derivative, has to be kept well clear of those powerful power plants. For my Red Ryders and DX-17, years have gone by with Ballistol for TOTAL CARE, lube and frame wipe down. They look and function great. The white German mineral oil is a special choice for BB spring guns. Sir, I'm not saying you are wrong if you used airgun grade silicone for a BB spring gun - there are just more options.

@ I am certainly no expert and…. even though I’ve been shooting airguns all my life and a 410 shotgun that my dad gave me (when I was seven!)….(and as a young man ….The SA80 LR 5.56cal when I served in the Army)….. out of all the guns i’ve used… i’ve always enjoyed the simple pleasures that budget airguns give us….. when I was 12 my dad bought me a Harrington Gat…. and I basically ruined the internals and made it very weak by over oiling… with household stuff like WD40 and 3 in 1….. thinking I was taking care of my pistol whilst I was ruining it🙄….. but…. that’s how I learned…. I can’t remember whether silicone oil was available back in the 80’s …. but the local fishing and hunting shop had “airgun oil” of some type.. can’t remember the brand…. anyway my dad bought me a newer bigger pistol which I was very careful with what I put in it!!! ….. interestingly enough… that pistol is still sold to this day…. you may well have heard of it…. today it’s called the S2 with a wooden grip….back then it was called “The Pioneer”….. around the late 90’s was when I started using silicone and nothing else….. purely based on my own experiences and tbh… as long as it’s not doing any harm and it puts a smile on your face… do what works for you…. i’m actually really excited about getting the DX17 because … the one thing I never got around to buying as a youngster was the “G10” and back then they were all metal and pretty much the only replica style pistol around …. I think Umarex have done a good job of making their own version…. which i’ve been told by one of the sales guys where I’ve ordered it from …. is….. the better of the two…. I can’t wait… i have a dartboard and a pellet trap waiting!!! let the fun begin!!!

Warren, is it too hard to cock? You would lose power.

My pleasure!

When replacing the seals, lube them with 30 ND. Clean off any contact surfaces first - especially if you bought it used. Try to stick with Danco nitrile. Other commercial SAE rings are TOO THIN. Remember, the VB ring (one in back) has to seal rhe tube AND hold it in place. Skinny store rings pull free - no air pressure. Avoid fancy material like EPDM rings - those rings are magical in water and last forever. But they melt like candy when contacted by mineral oil (any petroleum product).

I apologize for the inconvenience, Adam. Due to production delays, I am waiting on parts. I hope to have everything back in stock by the end of the week, good Lord willing and the creek don't rise. (And @daisy880fanaticfixit9: overstocking parts has been duly noted!)

Adam, Cobalt 327 says he should have springs ready by the end of the week. Look again at that time.

Mark, your reply DID get through. YT is being picky. You just have to toggle "newest" in the comments choice.

Glad it was helpful!

If the gun shot, then put the screw back in to cock it or the sear can't work, won't cock. If the spring didn't release, put the screw back in and start from the top. Only TWO spots in the back can keep the mainspring compressed - the ABT and the sear. A BB breech jam UP FRONT can also keep the main spring compressed. With the screw back in, if you have a mostly slack lever, but you hear a click in back with the lever fully up, that is a BB jam. You pull the trigger, and you hear another click.. If you have a slack lever and dead trigger - zombie gun - that could be a fake jam. Start there. ruclips.net/video/Ay8oSXlhNWY/видео.htmlsi=VhV8IOoAG3ZliVbJ If it is not a fake jam, the zip tie method works by removing the screw ALL THE WAY once the tie is secure. The gun shoots. Then put the screw back in to cock it or the sear can't work. With the zip tie and BB gun aimed down, tap the side and shake it with a loosened screw. If no dice, try to get the screw out. REMEMBER TO CHECK FOR FAKE JAM FIRST.

It is not like my 880 or 77xs. My 77xs looks just like yours, but yours is engineered differently. The Rings should be the same size. Try not to max the pump count - it degrades the ring seals. YOUR gun needs only 4 to 5 pumps. Try oiling it first, then change the rings in the back and the pump head. You can start by oiling it. See if that works in about 10 shots. If not, try the pump head seal change. I have other videos for fixing the back and the 012 ring in the compression chamber. I honestly avoided this Daisy because of the stacking complaints about breakage. Please, 4 or 5 pumps ONLY.

Yep, if it is a loading problem, that is the easiest jam to fix. The diagnosis is as follows: 1 The gun cocks normally 2 It shoots normally 3 BUT nothing shoots out of the barrel ruclips.net/video/rNXE7-fhelg/видео.html

If it is a breech jam, it is touch and go with a Ryder. The way they are made now, you have no decent breech access like pump guns or the Daisy 25. Daisy only talks about BB jams, but user error (in back) is a problem. Daisy reps talk about operating it right. Shooters get confused, try disassembly, and then wreck their gun. Please only use NEW Daisy Match BBs or Black Diamond. ruclips.net/video/wtRzsbyYysU/видео.html

I got it to screw back in but it still won’t work, are the older ones different?

Are you talking about the trigger screw? That year, a Ryder shouldn't have an anti bear trap. The ABT on modern Ryder causes so much confusion. So your timing is good because I just put a trigger unit into a NEW Ryder after oiling the sears and moving parts. The sheet metal body was slightly bowed out. The stock should stay OFF when putting back on the trigger. I squeezed the sheet metal and kept WIGGLING the screw until it got into position, and I could screw it in. At first, I couldn't get it to mate, so I took back out the screw ALL THE WAY, then started over until I got it in.

Yes, no ABT arm. The anti bear trap makes the ratching sound. So you say it won't work. It won't cock? That means the spring piston sear from 1968 is WORN DOWN. It won't hold the mainspring back. It won't cock?

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 yes it wont cock its like on the 7th click and the pull back the spring.

Ok, for you to say it is CLICKING, it must have an ABT. That makes a ratcheting sound. The ABT can be confusing. Try this video: ruclips.net/video/Ay8oSXlhNWY/видео.html

Alireza, you use it on CO2 capsules to aid air seal and lube internally as the needle puches through. It can also help extend the life of the contact seal (face plate). I haven't tried vasoline. Please toggle "more" with RUclips videos for more info. Below are answers to your data question: Scroll this Crosman page until you find Material Safety Data Sheet, toggle it, then find Pellgun oil: www.crosman.com/safety-guidelines DAISY LUBE RECOMMENDATION OF 30 SAE NON-DETERGENT IS THE PREFERRED CHOICE FOR MANY. Please read the pinned comment, which is a Manifesto from Magnum Airpower.

Alireza, you use it on CO2 capsules to aid air seal and lube internally as the needle puches through. It can also help extend the life of the contact seal (face plate). I haven't tried vasoline. Please toggle "more" with RUclips videos for more info. Below are answers to your data question: Scroll this Crosman page until you find Material Safety Data Sheet, toggle it, then find Pellgun oil: www.crosman.com/safety-guidelines DAISY LUBE RECOMMENDATION OF 30 SAE NON-DETERGENT IS THE PREFERRED CHOICE FOR MANY. Please read the pinned comment, which is a Manifesto from Magnum Airpower.

Yes, lube the new rings with 30 ND before the reassembly. Remember going forward, not to OVER lube. The oil can sit at the bottom of the tube and pressure that ring. Just a drop or 2 on the wiper after 500 shots. My videos are simple watch repairman types. But like a friend says - folks aren't looking for entertainment to fix their guns. "Oh Shoot" and "Airguns of Alaska" do the shooting and very fancy camera work. They focus on gun selection and performance. My channel is more like car insurance. Not exciting but appreciated when needed.

Thank you so much for you expert advice! Take Care!

Contact Daisy directly, and see if they will ship to you. It is only $4 from Daisy. www.daisy.com/contact-us/#email

That gun uses a system like the Grizzly with its valve stem. A 753 seal kit from Daisy might work. Here is a diagram from JG Airguns. www.jgairguns.biz/856-c-78_186_729/ I have a seal kit with a valve stem for my Grizzly, and it is slightly larger than the 753. The Grizzly had been discontinued. I don't have an 856 or any reps on it. See if help is available from JG. Look to change the rings first. Here is another popular airgunsmith outfit: www.airgunshop.net/

Adrian, what happened is that adding the ABT confused shooters. They cock it, just short of hitting the piston sear, think the gun is jammed, then attemp disassembly. THE MAINSPRING SUCKS THE TRIGGER ASSEMBLY INSIDE. Please consider the Daisy 25. With the ability to unscrew the barrel and loading system, repairing it is a snap. The 25 is a time warp back to when Daisy CARED about their spring BB guns being trouble-free or easy to clear a malfunction. Also, I'm currently exploring the Daisy 499. I likely will shoot a series on it. Its price does seem outrageous to some - now averaging over $200 retail - but it is BETTER engineered. I got a better deal. What I can declare so far is that the 499 has NO ABT - that is one headache removed. And like the 25, the 499 barrel CAN be removed to clear a BB breech jam. No such luck on the current Ryder design.

@@daisy880fanaticfixit9 Thanks for your guidance and advice. I would love to have a reliable BB gun that I can enjoy and service as needed. I have an old Daisy that is over 65 or 75 years old. It's been to hell and back. It still functions but does not shoot that well anymore. Where can I buy a BB gun that works? THANKS!

Ok, I won't go all in on the 499 yet. I have to explore it. Also, that will cost you over $200. I got a better deal, but it is still at least 3 times the price of a Ryder. The 25 is spring-loaded. As fast as you work that pump, a BB shoots. Aim up down and all around - the BB shoots. No dry firing (until empty). BB jams are easy to clear. Barrel cleaning is easy. Remember to oil the barrel threading every few hundred shots, or it can get stuck. www.daisy.com/product/model-25-pump-bb-gun/ www.pyramydair.com/product/daisy-model-25-pump-action-bb-gun?m=2057

Sir, thanks for the comment. I don't have any interaction with the owner. I was just trying to help folks with old pump guns I don't have or have reps on. 🔷️I have linked to your option here, under "more," and in the pinned comment at top.🔷️ Others have left similar warnings, BUT RUclips moderators took them down - much more crude and angry than you. Thanks for another choice for owners of discontinued guns. www.airgunshop.net/

Charlie, a really, really GREAT question asked now. That is an older video, so here is what has changed: ▶️ Marksman BBs are around $10, yes, TEN BUCKS, for 1,000 now. ▶️ Many Ryder veterans have weighed in, saying that Marksman ammo is a jam risk, coming at a solid 176. That risk is ok for a pump gun. But a Ryder has now breech access to speak of. ▶️ Marksman BBs aren't better made than Daisy Match. Many would consider Daisy Match better QC (quality control). www.daisy.com/product/daisy-match-grade-unplated-precision-shot/ www.pyramydair.com/product/daisy-match-grade-avanti-precision-ground-shot-177-cal-5-1-grains?p=398