The Sludge is Strong with this one! 10,000+ Mile Engine Oil! Hyundai Sonata
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to 
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Worked at a oil change shop in 2002 a customer always awent to Jiffy lube for his oil change in a BMW, he decided to try my shop we start draining the oil and I pulled out the canister filter and it was completely full of hard black tar oil gunk just packed in and took forever to clean it out. I showed the customer and he didn't understand what I was showing him and he said "The guys at jiffy lube told me my car doesn't have a oil filter." customer been taking his BMW to the jiffy lube since it was brand new. He called and of course they denied everything, on the recites there was no filter number or charge. We earned a customer for life that day.
My older brother joined Mensa on the first try when he was 19. He then proceeded to drive his Audi without changing the engine oil for 100,000 miles ! I'm now 73 and reminding him of it never got old.
Thought about joining Mensa but the looks I got when I found errors they had made changed that
I'm surprised the engine lasted so long
@@jst_TVimagine if he did the oil changes that car could have been one of those million mile vehicles like that notorious Volvo and Toyota
I know that's a lie because the Audi could not have gone 100,000 before failing even with oil changes.....
@@2605155 that was probably 50 years ago ( by authors age), they would have gone out if business again if they were that bad back then
As a person who has gotten busy and done a few 9,000 - 10,000 mile oil changes on old dinosaur juice on my own vehicles, I can say that just a single oil change interval like that does not cause sludge issues. There's probably been some 20,000 mile intervals over the years.
I wonder if where they took the car to get serviced the place didn’t do it and just said they did.
@@dragonofkilln9663 I can confirm that this actually happens. How often, I do not know.
@@paulstandaert5709 I’m sure it does. Which is why I always check fluid levels before I leave the building
He's 10k+ past the recommended oil change, dealerships usually do 5k miles for a recommended oil change which means he's been driving 15k miles without an oil change, that will gunk up he oil on Hyundai's.
@@victorribak5963 It'll gunk up any engine out there. Just walk through the self-serve junkyards and glance at the engines that have valve covers removed. Sludged engines are everywhere. Work in the used car department at a dealer somewhere. Countless trade-ins come in with no oil showing on the stick.
I shouldn't complain. People like this make me a lot of money.
The sticker shown at 0:12 says date: 2/4/21, which means the last oil change was 3 years ago. So that right there explains the sludge. Furthermore, if that sticker is actually a "due date" for the next oil change, that would mean this would be a 20K oil change and based on the date, indicates the last oil change was done 4 years ago!
Thank you! This makes sense. I was just going to say this doesn’t look like 10k mile oil. I mean 10k mile oil would be dirty for sure but not THIS sludgy.
@@hk5288most full synthetics are generally fine upto 10k no problem. Time is also an important factor which as you can see it’s been Atleast 3 years since the last oil change.
Agreed, that isn’t 10k oil. I’m running 10k intervals with my wife’s Nissan rogue using mobile 1 extended that they say is good for 20k. The oil is still a nice bronze color at 10k when I change it. Never black like that. That’s gotta be more like 20k, and years old, plus a life of very long drain intervals.
You will be hard pressed to find a shop who puts 10k miles on the next due date, they want you back there as often as possible. My dealership puts 3k on standard and 5k on full synthetic.
Would have been fun to see underneath the valve cover, before and after.
I would have drained all the old nasty oil first and changed the filter. Then add some cheapy bulk oil and the oil flush treatment. Then run the engine for 20-30 minutes. That might have worked better considering the oil in there was pretty sludged-up. Then drain the cheapy oil and pour in some new oil and a new filter. That way the customer is driving with reasonably clean oil for the next 3,000 miles. I totally agree with the 3,000 mile follow up on this one.
Agree.
I probably would’ve too, but from what I read, high-quality synthetics, will clean out the engine better most likely the next oil change will be dirty anyway.
I would also put fresh oil in the new oil filter before putting it on the engine
100% right thing to do.
so long as you can bill the customer for the extra oil/time
I seriously don't understand how come ANYONE would treat their vehicle this way, and not care about important maintenance like an oil change. What's cheaper, a MOTOR or an OIL CHANGE?😮
Lazy àrses
Some people truly don't understand anything about cars. Or have 1,000 other things going on in their life so it's not a priority. It's an expensive lesson to learn...
Yeah, but with a new motor you have a new motor. Who doesn't want a new motor?
Right! Bcos it's not on fricken tik tok,and it's not a trend,,new age idiots😂🎉
@@stefanpufferLOL 😂
That's fresh.
Was just told this week by a Gentleman that's been in the Automotive business for 50 years about a recent service at his shop.
This particular customer hadn't had their oil changed since 2020 .... & 16,000+ miles.
I wish all mechanics were honest like you. Have watched you and south main auto for a while and you guys do right by your customers.
you gotta be joking he upsold a bs cleaner that is gonna harm the engine more. that person could barely afford gas and instead of him explaining to the customer the severity of the issue he sold them snake oil so they come back again when it totally breaks.
Hey Ray, I’m no auto mechanic, but when I get into something w snap/tabs like that door switch, I will release them and slide a playing card in once they are released. This keeps them released and lets you work on the other ones without them snapping back in. Not sure if this would have helped you in this case, but it’s an inexpensive way to buy a couple extra hands to hold the tabs. Love your stuff, be well young man!!
I use an old credit card as it's a lot stiffer, but same idea.
Or a saws-all on the back tabs, and replace with JB Weld epoxy....:)
@@Jay.Kellett expired gift cards are good too, a bit thinner than CC but stiffer than playing card.
I push a toothpick beside the tab to keep it from relaunching. I'll try the card trick next time
I've used small flat heads for that, but using some kind of card seems like a good idea, going to try that in the future!
I use pieces of metal band that came from a shipping crate ....that was painful to watch Ray struggling...lol
Hi Ray, on those tabs holding that part in the door, I have always pushed a piece of thin cardboard (normally the box lid off the new part) into the the side that I unhooked so they do not re-engage. Then work the inside.
loose feeler gauges work for me .
I have a collection of old bank/credit/fuel cards at hand to use as a "spudger" or a shim or wedge... very handy.
Actually I use plastic from 2liter bottles to do the same trick with all the clips that hold gauge clusters together. I do back light repairs and mods on them.
I shim them with pieces of food cans (keep the rim on to leave a safe edge...)
I hope Ray reads these responses.
Very good, Ray, Dave and Lauren! It's a pleasure to see a shop run smoothly with everybody working well together. Thank you all for taking us along on your workday.
Made a believer out of my son about oil changes after he had to replace his motor in his pickup . Oil changes are the cheapest and easiest preventive maintenance you can do for your motor . As you were working to get that switch out I was wanting to give you a hand so badly . Stay safe , have fun . Oh Lauren was a big help on this one .
Last time I saw oil that looked like black gold or Texas tea, Uncle Jed missed the rabbit.
Don’t feel too bad, Ray. I, too, a rank amateur driveway mechanic, oiled myself just as you did. But, with much fresher oil!! Glad to see things going well for y’all!! Keep up the good work!!
Your patience with that window switch is astounding...! Thanks for sharing... Keep up your awesomeness...
Dave has been doing a good job keeping Ray from working 10-14-hour days, and often with just a quiet look.
Dave needs a nickname Troy you helped Ray a lot.
In the words of Bugs Bunny, “it’s da suspense that gets ya”. I sometimes shove flat pieces of plastic in once I get tabs popped out so they don’t lock again while trying to get the other tabs.
I really appreciate that you don’t just ignore stuff you see (like the sludge) and actually do something instead of just doing the minimum. Sign of a great mechanic.
He loves to upsell his engine cleaning stuff....and does it on engines that arent sludged up.He likes it when engines are like this cuz he makes more money...sign of a great mechanic.
Owning a newer model car it just goes to show you how important maintenance is in a timely manner
thanks Ray & Wife Unit
Really glad to see your business thriving and doing well!
The sludge is real with this one!
Use zip ties on the outer side, so it won't tab in again, and then work the other side. Don't remove the zip ties until the new part is in and correctly placed. After making sure everything is done correctly, remove the zip ties. You could use something like an expired credit card as well, but since it's a moving piece of tool it is difficult to keep it in place. Have yourself a great day Ray, Lauren and Dave.
just get trim remooval tools, basic shit
I'd simply destroy the existing part. Just be careful not to damage any of the tabs that keeps the replacement firmly affixed.
@@leecowell8165 Lord almighty. THERE IS A TOOL FOR THIS.
I like this format of Lauren being behind the camera and assisting. More like this pls
I bought my used tahoe and changed its oil immediately. Very easy and saves time. People don’t know how to take care of cars
That's a pretty broad statement! What's your evidence?
@lightningstrikestwice6302 reality, many of us old guys look out for every young person in the family. I pay to change oil in grand children cars when they argue its a waste.
Good call to have the customer come back in 3k for another oil change. Surprised that engine isn’t obviously damaged. I like that you’re slowly incorporating Dave into your videos. He seems like a great guy. Let us know how the little Chinese car is doing 😁👍
Rainman isn’t a babysitter, if this person wants to blow their car up….then let them. Then they can pay Rainman to put another engine in.
@@deplorablelibertarian That engine is probably only on the first couple of oil changes since the recall happened.
@@deplorablelibertarian you need to learn a thing or two about customer service.
i too had noticed that Dave was getting more air time. any day now he might get a speaking part.
Don't do it that sludge is the only thing holding the engine together
Can you imagine what the intake valves look like
Yep. Lots of RUclipss showing how much gunk some Hyundai engines (2011-16?) collected. The engines naturally gunked up then owners liked to skip oil changes, a deadly combo. Some were due to shavings left in the engine during assembly, others were due to excess blow-by, per the class-actions suits. The "fix" is sometimes to pull/clean the pan and valve cover, flush/change a second time. The vids say the customer is due back in 500 miles for another flush/change but you can guess how many owners follow up.
I dont want to. Its scary in there i bet.
GDI only engine. I won't buy GDI without port injection vehicles. Or turbo engines. Or mechanical CVT transmissions.
I like the Toyota 2.5 liter hybrid system. Port and GDI injection. No turbos. No sleazy mechanical CVT. Great fuel economy.
@mikep490 agreed, Hyundai engines don't need help with building up sludge, but I have worked one a number of Hyundai engines, and yeah they have issues for sure.
@danny Mazda sky active use direct injection only but it's reliable. You Just have to clean the intake valve and injectors with a kit I believe.
Welcome to my world! I swear whenever I try to get some easy job done - it turns into hardest messy nightmare job.
Appreciate you posting the full struggle of the pesky power lock door switch and bless your wife for her great help and support. Im sure hearing her gentle voice helps with all the b.s you deal with in the shop.
she does have a gentle voice. Good help too/
I was cheering you on with the switch module! Glad to see it successfully pulled and replaced! Thanks to Lauren too! Great work! I'll look forward to an update on the sludge situation. New subscriber!
I have this same Hyundai Sonata, the engine seized at 89K miles. Turns out that specific engine is under a lifetime warranty from Hyundai/Kia due to a $3Billion class action lawsuit stemming from a manufacturing defect where the engine was not deburred correctly and metal bits were getting into the bearings. The lifetime warranty also applies to the NEW engine too! (as long as it is properly maintained) Nice video - good to see Lauren and Dave more!!!
So basically if you own that car you can just redline it at stoplights whenever you want and then when it eventually blows up you can just get a new engine?
Need to get this oil change behind them, put a few thousand miles on clean oil. Assuming that they have no access to old stuff, like this.
If it failed right now, the warranty would almost certainly not be honored.
@@mashedpotatoes5323 I do that normally because my 4L60E won't move unless i'm at redline!
@@linuxguy1199 to avoid transmission wear I was thinking more like put it in neutral and just rev the crap out of it like a ricer civic.
I'm a Hyundai advisor and former tech. This engine would be denied.
One of my dad’s pieces of life advice to me was to always keep up with the oil changes in the vehicles. Apparently folks don’t tell their kids that any more.
I always remind my wife and Daughter I'll say how many miles on the oil change we do 5,000 mile synthetic they go you are obsessed but we all have are issues
You can tell the kids & they go yeah ...5 minutes later what did dad say?
I feel like its more on the cheap bastards who go, “Oh the oil and filter are rated to 10k so im going to ignore the 3k or 5k service interval.” All to save what 40-50 bucks if even that
@@djasseater2262 i'm 1 of those cheap bastards u r talking about... i went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days going 23,671 miles & hav no issues wut so ever w/my '16 lexus now @ 77K... so u do NOT believe any1 can develop a nu product that can DO MORE than older or just plain real oil ? ? ? AMSOIL started in 1972 as the 1st synthetic APPROVED by the API... if it were so bad they wood b out of business by now, don't u think ? ? ? by the way, GOOD products cost $$$ my boss, a livery driver, also, has a '10 prius w/over 375K & has NO / ZERO sludge in his engine... only runs AMSOIL since he got it w/just under 90K... yes, i use & sell AMSOIL... 🤑
For years I worked for a company that changed the oil in their Dodge Vans at 20,000 miles with a filter change at 10,000 miles, we NEVER had an oil related problem and ran most of those vans 300,00 to 400,000 miles before trading them off.
Now the difference was that almost all of these miles were highway miles and we ran full synthetic oil, most vans got between 80,000 to 100,000 miles every year.
When we switched to Dodge Trucks with the 5.9 Cummins Diesel we used Mobil Delvac 1 Synthetic Oil specifically made for diesel engines and used the oil drain interval to 25,000 miles, again no issues putting 300,000 to 400,000 miles on each truck.
My company truck had a close call with the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) where the pin fell between the timing gears and the aluminum timing cover cracking the cover and causing a major oil leak, this was around 220,000 miles and the mechanic was amazed at how clean the engine was on the inside.
Would I run extended oil drain intervals on a modern engine? Absolutely not because of the increased amount of exhaust gas recirculation used for emissions and the increased use of plastic/nylon parts inside engines today and that is even more important on modern Diesel Engines which will “Soot Up” if allowed to idle excessively or just driven around town and never driven long enough to heat up and burn off the soot.
First, saying a community hello to Dave being a little less camera shy. I also wanted to mention that we didn't hear the safety beeps of the horn when wife unit (we love wife unit) backed out the car. Also nice to see her helping film and assist. I could feel fthe frustration building on the switch, way to keep your cool.
In situations like that with spring fittings I use to free up one side, insert a thin piece of plastic ( credit card) on the released clips to stop them re-engaging, then flip out the other side as I pulled on it, worked a treat everytime @Rainmen Ray's Repairs
I do exactly the same...I was literally shouting at my monitor at Ray, saying put a card in between on one side!
Man... You are keeping a blistering video upload schedule... Dont forget the "me"/ family time. There's a reason so many RUclipsrs burn out after while. Love your channel, and Ive been watching every day for the last couple years! KTF!
I admire you for the patience you displayed. I would have bellowed a thousand cuss words when dealing with that door switch assembly.
We watched the whole thing, and it was well worthwhile. Especially your struggle with the door switch-- proof that simple success is not always simple.
Ray & the wife make @ great team best wishes to you both in business & family life
You are the best automobile service provider I have ever seen. I truly believe the way you work should be studied by EVERYONE who wants to be a professional mechanic. It should be mandatory! I sincerely hope I can find a mechanic half as thorough as you to bring my Monte Carlo back to life. Continue to be great. You have a subscriber for as long as you have this channel.
And he’s showing his greatness by reusing old drain plug with old crush gasket and not torquing it to spec. How many times that door trim touched the ground? Only thing he needed was to disconnect those cables…
You guys are one heck of a team, god bless!
Oil changes are crucial to the longevity of your vehicle! Every Cell phone has a calendar on it use it to remind you to change it! So worth it.
Personal satisfaction with this one - watching Ray struggle and thinking: 'he's going to bend that driver for leverage.' Sure enough, driver bent! The number of 'specially engineered' tools that exist for 'that one job' would be incredible.
Also love that Dave is designated timekeeper so that you all go home and have proper down time. Great team, great atmosphere, wonderful content on many levels. Cheers for that. ❤
Happy to see you always take excellent care of your customers and to see Lauren join in. If I lived close enough, you would definitely be my go to place for automotive service.
I am a retired production machinist from a large steel part manufacturer and process times were short on the actual labor time as opposed to the computer generated process time and as a part time mechanic and not a schooled technician , it takes me more time do diagnose than a true technician , so i can understand book times that to R&R a part i can meet the time but i loose when it comes to diagnosing a check engine light, which i do know is a direction of a path to take but not a definite part to change . Thank you for sharing your struggle with those lovely plastic tabs on the door switch.
Love that Wife Unit's help and videos.
Ray. I am Old School being as I am 80 years old. When I had a car that needed an engine flush, after completion, I always added 1 quart of ATF in place of 1 quart regular oil to help clean the engine. You and the wife unit are priceless.
Mineral oil works fine as well. That's always been a good remover as far as sludge. Even some diesel fuel, but you don't run it more than maybe twenty minutes at low rom
If it clogs up the oil pickup due to massive sludge beeing freed up, you are going to have a bad time :D Better dissolve it slowly over a few thousand miles.
@@tschuuuls486Just bought a GMC w/ 5.1L where ‘dynamic’ lifters are prone to clogging and failure. What do you suggest as a longer clean to avoid clogging the lifters? thnx
@@bhagmeister probably just full synthetic with good cleaning properties (has something to with the ester content of the base oil) and a decent additive package. And just change the oil every 6k miles. But I'm not familiar what exactly goes wrong with that exact engine. I just hopped in a oil forum and read up on my engine and looked at the suggestions vs price per liter :D
@@bhagmeister A zinc additive or a good oil that contains a lot of zinc is what you need for lifters. This kind of oil is actually the best you can use for breaking in a cam as well.
The shop is looking good. I love the signage and the lights. Great job Ray. You pay attention to that kind of thing. Alot of people don't.
Good Team WORK you TWO!
So sweet to have a good wife. Married for 47 years and my wife still loves me. We are lucky to have that ride or die best buddy. Good work wife unit. We see who is the rock the glue and the protector. Bravo. Nice work team Ray.
Ray just makes a new tool to do the job. Another entertaining video, thanks Ray and The Wife Unit.
These engines are junky not denying that, but I still think this is half the issue with the hyundai/kia engines blowing up. I've got 100k on my 17 Sonata and it's had 3k mile oil changes since new. It doesn't burn oil at all. Might blow up tomorrow lol. Who knows. But I think proper maintenance helps at least.
I change my oil every 3-4 thousand miles. 2004 expedition, has 220,000 miles on it and it runs smooth, quiet, and still strong.
I'm literally screaming at the TV right now lmao. Take a piece of the box that the new part came in and when you get one side out of the tabs put that piece of card board in so the tabs don't go back in. Then pop the other side out.
I love your channel brother. I've seen every vid and have to wait on new ones to come out. I've learned alot from you so thank you for doing what you do!
GOOD day to you, Ray. Tip on the door switch release tabs. Cut a business card into strips. Then, slide a strip under each tab as they are released so that they do not relock. Love your videos, thank you.
Happy Saturday Ray. The Sludge is strong in this one indeed.
Thank you for the awesome coolant pouring clips, they really make my day. Please include the pumping of the BG coolant drum too!
Thank you, Rainman, for what seems to have been a very trying window fix. As customers, we seldom see these frustrating times as a mechanic. You good mechanics are worth more than your pay, and thanks again for keeping these videos clean from unessary cussing. Great and informative videos,keep it up,Lester
Reading the below replies regarding how to help remove that electric window switch, all great suggestions on how to get past the clips. Love the advice from some of your readers. Was a shame to see the condition of that engine/oil. Hope the cleaning efforts work. Love watching Lauren assist, she's good at it...a pleasure seeing you two work together.
with those clips that go back and forth- one locks back up if going to the other side - I like to stick a nonuseable credit card in the harder to access clip. It prevents the lock up, and is flexible. it also tends to break before you would break something sensitive if you mess up.
Just madness how people treat their cars then complain when it breaks, HELLLOO!
BG EPR is AMAZING stuff! Very real chemistry behind it!! For those without a shop account Amazon sells it.
Looks like the interior / dash is holding up nicely
guitar picks (or any thin shim) are good for inserting into the tabs to keep from recapturing
Fantastic video Ray... Would love to see episode 3 on that 3K mile oil change.
I love working on things with my wife. I hope one day i have my own place to do that in. Have fun you two
Ray as a ex Mechanic ive been there were door switches when worked for Renault UK in Liverpool were i still live.Never give up trying no matter how long it gets.Paul...
For those type of clips. I have found that cutting a soda can in strips helps remove them.
Use pritool to move the clip back, insert can strip, do same for the others. Pops right out.
How about a beer can.
For the oil plug, use a socket and extension to back it out those last few turns. Lot easier to wipe oil off metal.
I just use a telescopic magnet.
I like to put a magnet inside the socket on the extension.
Ps, your video helped get me through some tough times. Thanks. We need skills like yours lost art, thanks
My first visit--it was fun! All the best.
Unreal! Ray cares more about vehicles than the owner! Thanks for keeping an eye out for us ray! Dont let them get away with 10k more mile oil change! Shame on them!
Thank you for the videos. I am a retired master mechanic. You do top-notch work.
I'll bet you would replace the old drain plug gasket though! And hopefully, cover your open containers.
My favorite oil is Redline. It has an excellent ZDDP package and the only oil you can hear how much better the engine runs. if you put some between your fingers it feels like liquid plastic. Been using it for around 40 years and many many cars they all ran better. Its the oil engine oil that will fix a Hemi tick. Its not cheap.
Another great job Ray!
Whenever the customer says they don't remember when the last oil change was, you can expect the worst. That must be some good stuff you use for the flush. Only problem is, that person will neglect the oil changes again. You can bring a horse to water, but you can't make him drink. You would have had less trouble with the switch if you would have taken a thin tool and pushed through the outside (top of switch), you would have popped it right out. Good video, thanks for sharing.
But there was a dead giveaway of when the last oil change was done. Have a look at the start and the 'next service due' sticker and under the distance due (87,000), there is a date of when due of 2/4/21, so allowing for that being February (in most of the world, that would mean April - but I digress), that means it's 35 months overdue, which explains the sludge and why customer can't remember.
This is the most uncomfortable uncoordinated video you have done so far, fair play for sharing
I got a 2002 Silverado from the stepson. He said his dad changed the oil regularly. I thought I had better do an oil change on it since it was having a little lifter noise. It finally took a 24 inch pipe wrench to get the filter off. The filter was the worst I'd ever seen. Completely full of grease consistency sludge. Wow. It was amazing that something didn't seize up. It's still running great now at 230000 miles.
Filming much improved since wife unit brought in. Thanks from UK.
Great video as usual. Yes, Amsoil is a far better oil than M1. Can you video this car again next oil change? Thanks.
As you pull the tabs out of the retaining holes, slip a playing card in between the tabs and the holding clips covering the holes that the tabs keep falling back into. Then do the outside of the switch and pull it out.
When dealing with clips like on that door. Take an empty washer jug and cut some stips out of the flat side panels to use to hold those clips from snapping back into place. Thank you for the video. Stay safe out there. Cheers
its nice that you work closely with the wife unit!
Never seen anyone fight a switch replacement like this
Only because he was trying to beat the clock he was felling the pressure
I would have drained the old crap oil out, replaced the filter and refilled it with any cheap oil before using the BG EPR. The additive would have had a better chance dealing with the remaining sludge before replacing the filter and oil again. Also, you missed the opportunity to mention that AMS oil is 100% synthetic oil and that "full synthetic" oil is not synthetic oil at all but highly refined dino juice.
At a minimum replace the old oil filter; it's very likely bypassing EVERYTHING at this stage.
Umm yea, it all comes from the ground.
Only Asmoil’s signature series is 100% full synthetic their OE still uses petroleum base stocks but it’s still a much better blend then Mobil 1
I just changed one of these motors. Factory long block comes with everything it's pretty great.
I must say that I really enjoyed this video..
One of the things I learned while working at my brother's shop is that to some people their car is just an appliance that takes them places. Their toaster or refrigerator needs no maintenance so that's how they treat the vehicle!
They have no mechanical knowledge, the same way wife unit didn't think anything of the banging noise.
Not everyone knows these things.
The GDi on the engine stands for Gonna Destroy Itself, lol
Yea, you're right if you don't keep up religiously with maintenance! And probably 90% of Hyundai owners don't keep up with the maintenance!
Agreed. My wife's grenaded (Hyundai) at 100,040 Kms)...40 Kms over warranty. NO NEW ENGINE.
I’m with you the amsoil. Good stuff.
Hey Ray, I'm a technician for electronics and I know your pain with them clips.
If you use flat metal spacers and shove one in each tab area, you can pull whatever you want out without the other clips going back.
I think it’s great to have a wife that performs duty as a quality control officer. Good on her.
You can use a thin gasket scraper tool or mud spreader tool with the wide blade also to keep those tabs from reengaging
had same idea
Wife unit is best unit. A very lovely unit.
Tip: get tabs released, slide dollar bill in place to prevent tabs from locking again. Repeat on other side
Or use a couple of bank cards?
Not only was it 13k over in mileage - it was also over 2 years, by the date on the sticker
2021 yes I saw that so I’m thinking the car barley gets driven
So, 23.000 miles on the same oil? That's bad
& nobody knows how many of those miles were town /highway.
@@wirdy1 seeing how bad the oil looked I’m going to say city driving.
“If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always got.”- Henry Ford...... Would've been interesting to see an oil analysis on this one. Was there anything left at all of the additive package? 😗
Cool to have wife-unit running the camera!
Thank you for showing how to get the door panel off & on. My window switches are on the way out too!
I was looking forward to seeing the sludge that’s in this neglected engine. A good candidate for one of your oil exchange cleaning procedures.
We are waiting, salivating, to see inside the oil filter (upon its dissection)!
That window control is a nightmare to change out
Well actually no they aren't. All you do is slide a thin piece of plastic or indeed metall inside each if the catches and it virtually drops out. I cannot believe I watched an experienced mechanic do that.
Good job, Loren, catching the door screws Ray was forgetting. 👍
That sludge looks like way more than 10k overdue. I only saw something similar in a VW driven 4mi only daily in northern climate.
agree, the owner put a fake sticker or drove under severe condition-food deliveries?
@@forgetfulme1719 or whoever was changing it before didn't change it and instead they just put a new sticker on and charged money for the oil
happens in cheap prices shop.
Looks like the oil got baked on the dipstick