"We have crested the top of the bridge..." Yeah! That's The World Famous Bridge Over Troubled Autos, a landmark of the Florida coast, famous for it's breath-taking view of Rainman Ray's massive collection of broken vehicles in need of some love and healing from the Rainman. 🙂🙃😛
I understand it has become a dangerous situation on the bridge from all the stop vehicles caused by people stopping on the bridge to take photos of our Rainman's kingdom of repairs.
Ray, back in the late 1980's, my dad blew up the work beater I had bought and maintained for him (over revved trying to get it unstuck from a snow bank). I had to immediately find him another beater. Enter a $600 1978 T-Bird with 98K on its 351M/400. The car had basically zero maintenance and the engine was totally sludge filled, only 1.5 quarts of tar drained. Old school "mechanic in a can" rescue. Quart of Liquid Wrench, oil change, filter. Ran 30 min. Another quart of LW/oil/filter and I drove it for about an hour. Filter change. Drove again. Oil/Filter, let my dad drive it a couple of days. Oil/Filter, dad drove 1000 miles. Went with 2500 miles changes from his first 10K. Also had to un-stick/de-varnish the FMX transmission. KW Transmedic. Fluid/filter. Used a syphon pump down the dipstick tube to pull 4Qts of Type F and fill every 3,000 miles. Sold the car 2.5 years and 40,000K miles later. Still ran OK, but it needed a timing chain. SO, engine cleaning CAN work. I'm disabled now and can't do my own work- 😢
My Dad had a car that was running very poorly. A mechanic friend said it sounded like sticking valves and to just add a quart of Kerosene to the crankcase and basically do the run/drain procedure Ray used here. Dad was skeptical but after about the first 5 minutes, the engine quieted down and smoothed right out. Problem was solved. So yeah, solvents do have their place.
(Lord did this go long! Sorry!) Here begins the Lesson: My Grandpa, who was an accomplished Air Force Master Sargent Senior Airplane Mechanic from WWII, told me to rapidly pour a small 2 cup bottle of brake fluid down all four barrels of a Rochester Quadra-Jet on a 75 Cadillac Coupe de Ville with the 500 cu. in. engine, to eat up some of the carbon in the heads, that was making that boat diesel in a most amazing manner. Had my brother running the thing at about 25-3500rpm as I slowly started to do the deed. Grandpa didn't bother to tell me he had never tried this on a CAR before. That sucker put out enough smoke to cover part of the landings at D-Day in Normandy. I'm freaking out, screaming at my bro to KEEP IT RUNNING! and in the interim the whole dang neighborhood emptied out of their homes to see what was burning up. When the smoke quit blasting out of the exhaust I had my bro cut the ignition. Lo and behold! No dieseling! Got a stern talking to from the Fire Chief, who lived across the street, and from every other older man there. All while my Grandpa was laughing his a$$ off. So the moral is, sometimes solvents will do a great job of cleaning out crud. It's the side effects you gotta look out for. I'm old and disabled now, too, but some of my old stories still have little pearls of wisdom to impart, in more ways than one, and can give folks a chuckle. So, use the tools you're given, and watch out for the wily Elder Mechanic... 😂😁😉💨
I sent the link to my wifey, she was my car is so pretty. She wanted to thank you Ray! I want to thank you! You are very good at what you do bro. You have always been amazing with all of our vehicles. The price was great. I will be bringing it back in 1000 miles. Hopefully it will be sooner than a year. I didn’t realize we only put 4000 miles on the car in almost a year. I like the idea of the BG cleaning for the next oil change. On a side note get them guys to clean the floor. I’m kidding. Still looking good. We will have to schedule time for me to do the 3rd bay. Keep it up you’re doing awesome.
Hey Ray one other thing, we didn’t do the BG clean last year. We did a quick oil change. Cause we had to drive to Missouri then to Indiana, then back down here. The guys at THA Ford dealership, not naming names maintained the oil , for us when we bought it we’ve had it for 3 years in may.
Most other shops would say, rebuild or new engine. But Ray probably just saved his customer a ton of cash in the short term at the very least and in return he just gained a dozen customers.......nice job Ray....your a rear one indeed
@@DonaldWells-wk8dche absolutely meant rare just a typo funny yes but still a typo or ai autocorrect or speak to spell is up to it’s mischievous stuff because i can say with great certainty every time I used autocorrect and speak to spell at no time have I ever said duck 🦆 but nevertheless that’s what it heard or felt that i should spell
@@StrongDreamsWaitHere When my family moved from Massachusetts to Arizona, we had a decommissioned school bus that was converted to about 80% moving van and 20% RV (no beds). The engine was so worn that every fill of the diesel tanks was accompanied by 1-2 quarts of motor oil. Total mosquito killer. It got us to Arizona, and my parents sold the bus to someone who wanted to turn it into a mobile home on their horse ranch.
Oh one other thing I forgot and wanted to say from some of the earlier videos where people were Giving Ray a hard time. First Ray you need to Just let those comments slide off like water on a ducks back, the work you do is awesome, the honesty you show adn your compassion for the customer is amazing, I personally would not give you any likes nor subscribe if I did not appreciate your videos and the customer service, I personally have a huge issue with auto repair shops and mechanics after trusting one once back in 01 and getting screwed over by them so I do everything I can do myself So the fact that I watch these videos and subscribe is a huge deal , There are so many People on youtube that Talk BS , Give bad Advice and so on. Keep up the great work and I will keep sharing and watching :)
I have tried the BG solution on an oil burning 2009 Toyota Camry and it reduced oil burning for about one year. Reduced oil consumption from 1 quart every 3K mile to less than 1/2 quart in 3k. This year early 2024 oil consumption returned to 1 quart in 3K miles. Tried a new Valvoline Restore and Protect(R&P) oil. From 200K start changed the oil four times with with R&P and at 212 K there is no oil consumption. R&P is engineered for the loose oil control ring problem. Valvoline recommends the four change interval, noticed reduced oil consumption at the end of the second oil change. Thanks for your excellent video!
Morning! I think most of us have bought snake oil products of one type or another, so it's only natural to be leery....which is why I love watching your channel! You stepped us through a perfect example of how SOME products CAN work - thank you!
Snake oil is shorthand for the patent medicine scams of the past before there was better (and sometimes even good!) regulation of medications and their ingredients. - For a modern-day equivalent, see the online supplements and homeopathy products.
Why fixate on the haters when so many good people make positive comments? You've helped thousands of us fix our own vehicles (or know when to say "hell no" and take them to a professional.)
I have my technician perform this exact procedure on my 97 Cherokee, my '12 Murano, and my '18 Sentra. People, this is not snake oil. Whether it needs it or not, like clockwork, this service is done on my vehicles every 2 years. This is one way to add longevity to the life of a vehicle.
I saw significant improvement in two old Toyotas with 2GR engines using the BG EPR. One stopped smoking on startup and the other reduced oil consumption to a fraction of a quart per 5K from a quart per 5K.
Ray,, your usage of Reptile Lubricant is EXCELLENT. The trick is, you not only use it and promote it, you ALSO explain it in detail. As I have said over and over on here. If YOU said ANYTHING was the best choice for my vehicle, I'd believe you in a heartbeat. Also, you have the right idea, don't let the haters get you down or upset, just get rid of them.
I've switched to the Valvoline restore and protect oil that's recently released, fixed a lot of oil consumption issues but there's always been high pressure under the oil cap which I was told was normal
I'm no mechanic but I've never heard it to be normal to have pressure under your oil cap, it should "suck down" to the valve cover otherwise you have a clogged PCV system, or excessive blowby past the rings.
I had a Hyundai Elantra 1.8 gdi 6spd manual Always run on 98 octane fuel and did oil and filter every 10,000 kms Did 350,000 in 8 years and the car was a tank Never failed and never burnt oil Hands down best car I ever had Now drive an i30 N Line 6spd sedan and totally love it
After watching a hundred I Do Cars teardowns and 90% sludgy engines with gummed up rings, this cleaning has to help. Some of those pistons Eric shows us are glued solid.
Bought some of that there snake oil for my 80,000 mile Jaguar XF-S which runs good. WOW!!! Put it in 30 mins before the oil change and ran the engine up to 2,500 rpm to make sure the secondary turbo tasted a load of it. The car actually pushes me back into the seat again on full throttle, and the turbos are all quiet again - no whiffling. That stuff works! Thanks Ray.
I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited with a 1.8 L engine. It has 111,000 miles on it and it does not burn a drop of oil at all. I have heard that these newer engines are terrible about oil consumption when they get as many miles as this one has. Carry on Ray. Good Job!!
Hi, Ray! I'm the 6th owner of a 2011 VW Jetta with a 2.0 L 4 non turbo 4 cylinder engine. It's got 310,500 kilometers on it. Bought it from my 22 yr old son who was having issues with it in 2022. I've only put less than 10k kilometers on it over the past 2 years. Change the oil every 6 months because I don't drive much. Replaced the battery, fuel filter, ignition coil twice (second under warranty because defective Chineseium), spark plug cables twice and spark plugs (because I don't think the first shop that certified my car actually really replaced them...long story). Since I've owned the car, I had been adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to my tank every 3-4 months to try to improve performance and maintenance. I was using Seafoam high milage. After watching your videos (and Rich from FordBossMe recd it too); I bought a couple of cans of BG 44K fuel injectors cleaner. Followed the instructions and added a can to my gas tank when filling up about a month ago. After driving my car for about 30-60 minutes, I immediately noticed a difference. My engine was more responsive and my fuel economy was MUCH improved. I got 271 kilometers of range from a half tank of gas. Before, I was lucky if I got 160. People can call this stuff snake oil all they want, but I've tried just 1 of their products and I'm very impressed. RUclipsr Car Wizard has also had the BG guys in his shop and showed the atomizer method of using their products to de coke carbon buildup in engines. I get it, that there are alot of naysayers that have tried other products and the manufacturers claims might not have lived up to their expectations. Been there and done that myself. In my recent experience though, I think that the BG stuff really does work.
Bg does work but that car wizard is the biggest idiot on RUclips 😂 he literally doesn’t know shit about cars! The only people that think he’s a wizard are the ones who don’t know anything about cars lol
Good Morning. Love your videos. I had some personal experience on this same oil burn problem I thought I could share with you. After having the oil analyzed, it showed having fuel mixed into the oil. It turned out the high pressure fuel pump was leaking into the oil and causing thinning and loss of viscosity. And recommended oil changes to increase to 1200 miles. The fuel pump was the problem. Good luck on this one and the cleaner did a great job.
Ray, you just shocked me. Initially I could not accept that the observed amount of crankcase pressure could come from blow-by. I was sure it had to be way more serious than that. HG or worse. I’m standing here beside myself. Cheers sir.
I've got a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD, with the 2.8 L Diesel engine. It's coming up on 160K miles. Have always used Amsoil AMO 10W-40 in it, along with one of their high efficiency oil filters. It's still tight and clean and runs like a top. Every time I change the oil, I'll do a flush on it. Get it hot, then drain out the old oil and remove the old filter - put in 6 quarts of cheap 30 weight oil, a NAPA oil filter, and a can of Lubro-Moly engine flush - the run it for 15 minutes, occasionally revving it up. When I drain out that 30 weight oil, it comes out just as black as the old oil - it's flushing out all the residual soot and other crap out of the engine - when it finishes draining out, the passages when the oil filter mounts is nothing but bright shiny metal. Then I put in the good Amsoil filter, the Amsoil 10W-40, and a can of Lubro-Moly MOS4 additive.
I’d recommend a second conditioning oil change after the 30w. Something along the lines of 10w50 with a 30 micron filter to trap the soot. Then some Fabuloso.
losing your job, I think you got fired, is not nice. But remember: one door closes, another opens. Maybe you'r better off in the future with a new, better job
@@SiAnon finding a new job... Like a door-to-door salesman where what counts is number of doorbells. Job search is psychologically overcoming the number of rejections. Also know you might find a 'stop-gap' job while continuing to look for what you really want.
It’s a Hyundai. It’s burning oil. In a couple of months it’ll be back with the complaint, “Customer states there’s a hole in the block.” Not surprised! Love the vids RRR!
My 2014 Elantra GT is an oil burning, sludge monster. Still runs fine with 250k miles on it. I found Lucas fuel treatment significantly reduces oil loss. But running 10W30 cured it.
I have understood that to check for ring problems put a squirt of oil in the cylinder first. You have convinced me that this stuff works after the last vehicle you poured that stuff into. I hope that off camera you cleaned up all that oil splatter.
If it was my car, I'd have a really hard time making the call to sink $800 into a chemical flush when it may need rings anyway. The results of the first flush still had a lot of blowby. I've been watching DIY Dave's channel as he fights the Toyota Corolla oil consumption via blowby the rings. He even did the BG full flush and the only chemical that has made much of a dent in the problem was when he was pouring Berryman's directly into the engine via removing the sparkplugs and letting it soak top down. I'm sort of interested in seeing some people use Valvoline's Restore & Protect. The problem with all of these is you really need to open up the engine to see the results. At least drop the pan and remove the valve cover(s). It's all a lot of work. ... in any case it's very entertaining and I'll be watching no matter what path you pick.
This is why I believe we should Always halve the manufacturers service intervals if you want your engine to last. Main Stealers just want you to buy a new car every three years, why would they help you to make it last?
I’d like a shirt that has the four sayings. Critical thinking etc. Yes, sometimes magic in a can is needed and works! Worked for me with the Berrymans soak on my Scion xb. And, you are definitely an honest and humble mechanic! We are few and far between. Plus a sense of humor.
I saw the oil stain on the engine cover and went... "Yeah, that thing's burning for you like Blue Oyster Cult." Hopefully the owner can get a few more miles out of it before the engine completely kicks the can. Good job as always Rainman!
Hey Ray. We had a similar problem with carbon build up on the old BMW 528e. We saw carbon build up as soon as 5000 miles. On the lesser severe engines, we would run an oil cleaner additive, and at the same time, disable the fuel pump, and use the 3M injector cleaner since the engine had to run at @2000 RPM's. After that we would change the oil and add Techron to the fuel system. That fixed many of the carbon build up problems.
That BGR (Engine Restorer) is made to clean sludge inside the engine including the piston rings, that stuff has saved countless engines that have gotten gummed and sludged up and it is made here in the USA ! It will NOT FIX a damaged engine but it will clean gum and sludge out of piston rings and oil galleries inside and even the oil pan that can make an engine run poorly.
That's totally correct on the oil viscosity in my opinion Ray, thicker oil hurts stuff when cold flow and/or foaming are issues. But in sunny Florida, on an oil burning car, thicker oil is probably a good call. 👍 Definitely not hurting anything anyway... Also, did y'all see that freehand oil pour??? Very impressive haha
It's pretty nice to see a source I trust use and demonstrate these products and when they apply before spending my own moneys on what could turn out to really be snake oil. Thank you once again Ray, it's greatly appreciated.
Nice to see they haven't got any better with the blow by oil burn! Had the 2003 version of this engine, oil burn was not good! Couldn't complain though, it did drive 4000km across Australia in January (summer here) with a 10cm hairline crack in top tank of radiator... would lose coolant down to crack line, otherwise no issues.
Yes!! Results again!! Right in front of our faces! Like you said, "chemicals work on the outside so of course chemicals will work on the inside. You can't argue with the results!! Awesome Ray!!
Not bashing anyone or trying to be an a-hole but, we've always, drained the oil, refilled with diesel, ran for a few mins, drained, new filter, new oil and was done, engine was cleaned and yes, you'd be surprised as to how much sludge you can remove from an engine this way. The one thing that always gets me is, the new mileage goals for oil changes, I've always been a firm believer in every 3k, never had any engine issues changing at a 3k interval. Great video as always, cheers :)
There's a mechanic I know that does that. Drain the oil and put diesel fuel in the engine 'cause diesel have more cleaning detergent. Run the engine a few minutes at 2000 rpm and drain in again. You can see how dirty the diesel fuel coming out. Then he puts the right engine oil and a good oil filter. But customers never complain of any problem. But bear in mind that diesel is more expensive.
@@csan255 Well, pending on what part of the world or country, per gallon vs oil quarts, diesel is still far cheaper. You only need to run a gallon through the system, at least that's how we've always done it since, after the clean out, that's when the oil filter would get changed. No point in having to change a filter twice, those get expensive. Now if you're talking several gallons, yea, it does get expensive but, the cost in repairs vs spending a little in maintenance... well worth it and should be considered an "investment" not a cost. Cheers :)
My grandparents bought a Santa Fe.. in their defense they’re in their late 80s and don’t know any better.. Although the car hasn’t been bad I’ve done work for them it’s never needed anything expensive just headlights and oil changes. Lots of headlights😂
@@bh2236 yeah it’s something with the lights.. haven’t had to do brake bulbs yet they’re still working but I’ve replaced the interior lighting with LED and they stopped burning out but my grandparents REFUSE to let me install LED headlight bulbs to fix the problem
@@bh2236 it’s a 2019 Santa Fe with halogens. I swapped my 1997 Chevrolet’s headlights for LEDs and now I get other people flashing their highs at me so I flash mine back. I mean the truck is a Z71 it’s headlights are at like at least windshield level for a small SUV so I guess it makes sense. I need to be able to see when I’m working at night though
You could do a wet compression test by putting a teaspoon of oil down the cylinder if the compression shoots way up then it’s definitely ring problem because the oil will temporarily seal the rings a trick I learned from an oldtimer
Ray, it doesn't matter if you perform a bad job on a car or if you do a perfectly good repair. There will always be some Karen around to try and ruin your day. Just tell them to go see if it's raining on the far side of the block.
Watching because my wife has this motor and yes, I had to take the fuel line off and re-attach it back. Was a major pain. Cleaning inside is tricky, adding anything but oil can impact the viscosity and increase wear. Additionally if you clean and create loose large pieces you can clog things up. And you need to be aware of where the cleaner can impact. I use seafoam occasionally in the fuel to help clean the valves and injectors on my port injected system. At the same time, if you use good oil and change it often enough the detergents in it should do the job as well.
I cant believe that oil cleaner worked so damn well. That's incredible. Products like this were all but useless when I was younger. Chemistry and material science rules.
One important thing we all ignore is that after engine flush process you must open the oil pan and clean the pickup tube of the oil pump and the oil pan it self cuz all that carbon buildup is going to gather down the oil pan and it won’t get out from the oil drain plug.
Mornin' Ray, I hope you have a great day! If I ever need car service, I'll come to you. Yes, I'm in Tampa, 50 miles or so, but I would prefer you to check my car out. If it needs to be towed or not to there
Hyundai has a Technical Service Bulletin 23-EM-08 that will replace the engine if it fails the oil consumption. First they service the oil & install tamper proof seals & customer drives it for 1K miles and brings it back. If it fails then they run cleaner thru it for NC & if it passes after another 1K miles it's returned to service but if it fails they will replace the engine NC to the customer because they know the OE piston/ring pkg is defective. I've had several customers bring their cars to me b/c of oil consumption & misfires. I pull the sparkplugs and usually 1 or 2 are oil fouled. I send them to the dealer with my repair order and a copy of the TSB for them to perform. The majority of them have had their engines replaced for NC b/c Hyundai knows they have a problem hence the TSB. The TSB is for all models and all model years. My customers were happy I saved them a lot of $$ with that TSB and my customers thanked me.
I own a 2012 Hyundai Azera Limited, bought in 2016. It had 34K miles on it at that time. It now has 102K miles. I've had ZERO issues with it. It still runs like a champ. I'm one of those OCD detailer kinda guys. I stay on top of it scheduled maintenance needs. I adore this car and it still turns heads. Not bad for a 12 year old car. No complaints from me on Hyundai. Always use full synthetic oil and AMG batteries. Full system fuel cleaner ever other full tank. A little love for you car goes a loooong way.
Yes, if you are like myself and have worked from home for a decade or more, you wind up with a 2015 model car with 25k miles. I have finally settled on a 3k miles or 6 months oil change interval (whichever comes first). Yes I have used full synthetic oil since 1998. I can tell you the one time I forgot to specify synthetic, it was during the summer in Phoenix (my wife's car) and after 3k miles you could REALLY see the difference. Perfectly clean and shiny dipstick suddenly had a nice brown patina. Regular oil doesn't do well when you regularly drive in temperatures above 110. Edit to add that I have used mechanic in a can before, and have no objections to it. It was on a 1984 Chrysler that started life as a Chicago rental car. Since then only new vehicles, so just kept up the normal maintenance and haven't needed any. My 2005 Honda Accord is still very reliable transportation for my sister (and still has a bright shiny dipstick).
❤what price are we looking at for the last service you spoke about, 2 times degrease,then cleaner, then new oil and filter, finished, would just like to know. David, in RSa D urban.
Ray i have a lot of 2.0gdi experience on my 2014 Kia Soul and another one and 3 Elantras i am a retired master mechanic but i service a taxi Co. Taxis i found foamed or excessive blowby and consumption found bad PCV Valve and the HOSE PLUGGED UP!! I replaced hose and a genuine Kia PCV. Flushed with 1 can Rislone flush and 4 qt cheap oil for 45 min at 2k rpm and a new filter. Then drained and put on Wix Filter and 5 qt Mobil 1. 10w-40 ( these cars had 166k - 298k miles) all 4 cars straightened up and oil still full at 4k each and changed at that point! The PCV VALVE seemed to be the prob. One car had the valve changed before but with china valve. Im 71 and the 50's-80's are my favorites. Another tip is when mounting tires spray the rim and the bead with cheap clear or black spray paint. (After cleaning rim and bead) i have about 10 tires that have been on old cars for over 10 years never needing air until dry rot ends it! When changing failed tire the rim is still clean. I hope these tips work for you!
There is a hyundai bulletin on using chemicals to free oil control rings. Edit pour chemicals down the spark plug hole to un stick carbon up oil control rings.
Toyota hybrids need 0w20, but dealers here in Europe just pour in 5w-40. No issues with it. Reason: thicker, more oldfashioned oil is cheaper, and dealers and mechanics are quite conservative ('that oil is like water, can't be good). But there's a reason that carmakers say to use some kind of oil....
My 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT with the 1.8L runs great with 160k miles. I drive it hard and doesn't burn oil. I maintain my car personally and it's been reliable.
Anyone who drives anything should check their oil very regularly. I do at every fill up. Not just oil but a look under the hood for anything suspicious.
My Hyundai's have all burned oil. I normally have to top off the oil 1/2 qt every 1500 miles. The dealers use 5W30 in the engines. That reduces oil consumption. I use 10W30. Oil consumption is now zero.
My 2017 Elantra burns a qt every 2-3k miles not as annoying anymore since I don't drive it a lot it's at 144k miles. Upgrade to a 21 they don't burn nothing between 7,500 intervals now at 97k miles on her.
Valve Stem Seals / Worn Valve Guides are a common problem on the direct injected Hyundai's. I would run the leak down test and see if you have blow by coming out of crank case. You have blow by when running so.. you are probably right rings are toasty. If it is the rings, try a can of engine restore. It is a micro encapsulated copper. That will cause the cylinders to fill in wear marks. I have used it on engines I though were goners and people are still driving them years later.
Kia oil changes are due at 3,750 mile oil changes. Every single engine I have replaced were from oil changes at 5,000 miles intervals. That's including full synthetic oil changes. I have denied engines for warranty with 5k oil change intervals due to sludge buildup
sounds like a good reason to stay away from kia, besides there are les expensive, better quality vehicles in NA than a kia. but regardless people keep buying them
When you have to drink the Liquid Plumber in a can for a colonoscopy..YOU GET CLEANED OUT INSIDE, very very clean. So why not an engine. Your insides are a lot nastier. And you get squeaky clean for a week.
I can remember my dad in the 1960's pouring Marvel Mystery Oil down the carburetor of a running V8. The smoking tailpipe was great to see as a young teenager. Low mileage and short, a couple mile, runs in a cool coastal environment the engine never got up to temperature. It worked then, and now with better chemistry I am sure it is a valid process.
Crikey, you young people are spoiled. I've run POS cars that use a quart every 100 miles. Leaking, burning, loading up at a light and a huge blue cloud (Hey Greta!) of smoke and spitting raw oil all over cars that stray too close when chugging away from the light. Sears oil was $0.79 a quart; was buying cases until I found out I could run the 10/40 oil that we changed out on hydraulic equipment. Car never left me stranded.
I remember those day.....years. Yeah, back when fuel was 80 to 95 CENTS a gallon. So on one hand these kids are spoiled. But on the other hand they have to take out a small loan to fill up their truck. Man, I miss the days of price wars on fuel prices around town. Now everyone wants 3 or 4 dollars a gallon, depending upon where you live of course.
Out of all the cars I've owned in the past 30 years, which has been a lot, only the Hyundai's burn oil right off the assembly line. Supposedly, they fixed the problem many years ago.
I had a 93 Miata/MX-5 quite a few years ago now, that I decided to start using expensive Shell synthetic oil in. And it decided to start using a lot of oil between services. Switched back to a 10w40 mineral oil, and oil consumption was vastly reduced. But the engine had around 200000km on it by then, so I could only conclude that the slightly different properties of synthetic vs mineral oil and the wear in the engine must have effected the amount of oil sneaking past the rings. Interestingly though, I continued using mineral oil, and the engine was still running strong and maintaining minimal consumption between changes until I eventually sold the car. Of course driving it hard and regularly to redline may have helped. 🙂
I like the products they do work to get the carbon down. The explanation was excellent and very professional. This method when it works can save the customer costly tear down. Love the content with my cup of coffee every day.
If it's like mine, the oil leak on the bottom is the oil pan gasket and it CAN leak a quart in 4000 miles. The valves are caked because it's a direct injection which are easy to clean. Check the intake manifold for blowby product including a nasty looking liquid in the valve runners. Just my experience. To do a compression test their is a connector under the intake manifold that easy to disconnect and disable the fuel injectors. The best scope is a HD with moveable head and side view camera, I love my DXZtoz AGC500L Articulating Borescope, not endorsing just what I got cheap off the 3bay and works well with video and camera recording abilities and even DUAL view with side and front at the same time.
A Hyundai with a bad engine. Nah, that's not possible. They make the best engines.. there are no class action lawsuits against them, and it's not like their engines self destruct or anything
I have been a Nissan and ASE master tech since 1989. BG products work. Prior to using BG I would put in 1 quart of ATF in the engine oil and run the engine at 2k rpms for 30 minutes. I would let it sit for an hour then change the oil again. It worked well for stuck/carbon stuck rings
I've seen many videos of using Engine Flushes on neglected high mileage vehicles. They Do Work to some extent. If you are lucky to clean those Carbonized Stuck Rings BEFORE damage has been done, you can save thousands of dollars. ROSOLENE was my go to product years ago. Seafoam works good for light intake Induction cleaning. Also I recommend CRC Intake and Turbo Cleaner. On Severe Deposits, more than one application is needed. If by the second cleaning you don't have positive results, then more intense expensive options will be required.
Morning coffee and a new Rainman Ray video. Hell yes 💪☕
👆 First 🤣🤣 sry Cliff not today
@@RainmanRaysRepairs do I get a gold star? 🤔
@@not-a-raccooni can give you a 00% discount on coffee at rays coffee shop
@@not-a-raccoon⭐⭐⭐
@@legionofanon😂😂😂
"We have crested the top of the bridge..." Yeah! That's The World Famous Bridge Over Troubled Autos, a landmark of the Florida coast, famous for it's breath-taking view of Rainman Ray's massive collection of broken vehicles in need of some love and healing from the Rainman. 🙂🙃😛
+1
It's a great view....said nobody every lol.
I understand it has become a dangerous situation on the bridge from all the stop vehicles caused by people stopping on the bridge to take photos of our Rainman's kingdom of repairs.
Home of broken toys!
Ray, back in the late 1980's, my dad blew up the work beater I had bought and maintained for him (over revved trying to get it unstuck from a snow bank). I had to immediately find him another beater. Enter a $600 1978 T-Bird with 98K on its 351M/400. The car had basically zero maintenance and the engine was totally sludge filled, only 1.5 quarts of tar drained. Old school "mechanic in a can" rescue. Quart of Liquid Wrench, oil change, filter. Ran 30 min. Another quart of LW/oil/filter and I drove it for about an hour. Filter change. Drove again. Oil/Filter, let my dad drive it a couple of days. Oil/Filter, dad drove 1000 miles. Went with 2500 miles changes from his first 10K. Also had to un-stick/de-varnish the FMX transmission. KW Transmedic. Fluid/filter. Used a syphon pump down the dipstick tube to pull 4Qts of Type F and fill every 3,000 miles. Sold the car 2.5 years and 40,000K miles later. Still ran OK, but it needed a timing chain. SO, engine cleaning CAN work.
I'm disabled now and can't do my own work- 😢
My first car was a 78 Tbird back in the day. Had fun in that car.
Have used a Ray's cleaning process and saw a decent improvement in proformance.Thank you
My Dad had a car that was running very poorly. A mechanic friend said it sounded like sticking valves and to just add a quart of Kerosene to the crankcase and basically do the run/drain procedure Ray used here. Dad was skeptical but after about the first 5 minutes, the engine quieted down and smoothed right out. Problem was solved. So yeah, solvents do have their place.
(Lord did this go long! Sorry!) Here begins the Lesson: My Grandpa, who was an accomplished Air Force Master Sargent Senior Airplane Mechanic from WWII, told me to rapidly pour a small 2 cup bottle of brake fluid down all four barrels of a Rochester Quadra-Jet on a 75 Cadillac Coupe de Ville with the 500 cu. in. engine, to eat up some of the carbon in the heads, that was making that boat diesel in a most amazing manner. Had my brother running the thing at about 25-3500rpm as I slowly started to do the deed. Grandpa didn't bother to tell me he had never tried this on a CAR before. That sucker put out enough smoke to cover part of the landings at D-Day in Normandy. I'm freaking out, screaming at my bro to KEEP IT RUNNING! and in the interim the whole dang neighborhood emptied out of their homes to see what was burning up. When the smoke quit blasting out of the exhaust I had my bro cut the ignition. Lo and behold! No dieseling! Got a stern talking to from the Fire Chief, who lived across the street, and from every other older man there. All while my Grandpa was laughing his a$$ off. So the moral is, sometimes solvents will do a great job of cleaning out crud. It's the side effects you gotta look out for. I'm old and disabled now, too, but some of my old stories still have little pearls of wisdom to impart, in more ways than one, and can give folks a chuckle. So, use the tools you're given, and watch out for the wily Elder Mechanic... 😂😁😉💨
I sent the link to my wifey, she was my car is so pretty. She wanted to thank you Ray! I want to thank you! You are very good at what you do bro. You have always been amazing with all of our vehicles. The price was great. I will be bringing it back in 1000 miles. Hopefully it will be sooner than a year. I didn’t realize we only put 4000 miles on the car in almost a year. I like the idea of the BG cleaning for the next oil change. On a side note get them guys to clean the floor. I’m kidding. Still looking good. We will have to schedule time for me to do the 3rd bay. Keep it up you’re doing awesome.
Hey Ray one other thing, we didn’t do the BG clean last year. We did a quick oil change. Cause we had to drive to Missouri then to Indiana, then back down here. The guys at THA Ford dealership, not naming names maintained the oil , for us when we bought it we’ve had it for 3 years in may.
Most other shops would say, rebuild or new engine. But Ray probably just saved his customer a ton of cash in the short term at the very least and in return he just gained a dozen customers.......nice job Ray....your a rear one indeed
He's a "rear one"? Did you just all him an ass? 🤣
Very funny typo. That just might have put you at the top of the ban list.
Driving 4000 miles a year, you can tolerate a lot of burning oil, as long as the owner keeps it topped off and changes it more often.
I ass ume thats a typo🤭
@@DonaldWells-wk8dche absolutely meant rare just a typo funny yes but still a typo or ai autocorrect or speak to spell is up to it’s mischievous stuff because i can say with great certainty every time I used autocorrect and speak to spell at no time have I ever said duck 🦆 but nevertheless that’s what it heard or felt that i should spell
@@StrongDreamsWaitHere When my family moved from Massachusetts to Arizona, we had a decommissioned school bus that was converted to about 80% moving van and 20% RV (no beds).
The engine was so worn that every fill of the diesel tanks was accompanied by 1-2 quarts of motor oil. Total mosquito killer.
It got us to Arizona, and my parents sold the bus to someone who wanted to turn it into a mobile home on their horse ranch.
Oh one other thing I forgot and wanted to say from some of the earlier videos where people were Giving Ray a hard time. First Ray you need to Just let those comments slide off like water on a ducks back, the work you do is awesome, the honesty you show adn your compassion for the customer is amazing, I personally would not give you any likes nor subscribe if I did not appreciate your videos and the customer service, I personally have a huge issue with auto repair shops and mechanics after trusting one once back in 01 and getting screwed over by them so I do everything I can do myself So the fact that I watch these videos and subscribe is a huge deal , There are so many People on youtube that Talk BS , Give bad Advice and so on. Keep up the great work and I will keep sharing and watching :)
I have tried the BG solution on an oil burning 2009 Toyota Camry and it reduced oil burning for about one year. Reduced oil consumption from 1 quart every 3K mile to less than 1/2 quart in 3k.
This year early 2024 oil consumption returned to 1 quart in 3K miles. Tried a new Valvoline Restore and Protect(R&P) oil. From 200K start changed the oil four times with with R&P and at 212 K there is no oil consumption. R&P is engineered for the loose oil control ring problem. Valvoline recommends the four change interval, noticed reduced oil consumption at the end of the second oil change.
Thanks for your excellent video!
Morning! I think most of us have bought snake oil products of one type or another, so it's only natural to be leery....which is why I love watching your channel! You stepped us through a perfect example of how SOME products CAN work - thank you!
“CAN work”. I see what you did there.
Snake oil is shorthand for the patent medicine scams of the past before there was better (and sometimes even good!) regulation of medications and their ingredients.
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For a modern-day equivalent, see the online supplements and homeopathy products.
Why fixate on the haters when so many good people make positive comments? You've helped thousands of us fix our own vehicles (or know when to say "hell no" and take them to a professional.)
I have my technician perform this exact procedure on my 97 Cherokee, my '12 Murano, and my '18 Sentra. People, this is not snake oil. Whether it needs it or not, like clockwork, this service is done on my vehicles every 2 years. This is one way to add longevity to the life of a vehicle.
I saw significant improvement in two old Toyotas with 2GR engines using the BG EPR. One stopped smoking on startup and the other reduced oil consumption to a fraction of a quart per 5K from a quart per 5K.
Ray,, your usage of Reptile Lubricant is EXCELLENT. The trick is, you not only use it and promote it, you ALSO explain it in detail. As I have said over and over on here. If YOU said ANYTHING was the best choice for my vehicle, I'd believe you in a heartbeat. Also, you have the right idea, don't let the haters get you down or upset, just get rid of them.
I've switched to the Valvoline restore and protect oil that's recently released, fixed a lot of oil consumption issues but there's always been high pressure under the oil cap which I was told was normal
I'm no mechanic but I've never heard it to be normal to have pressure under your oil cap, it should "suck down" to the valve cover otherwise you have a clogged PCV system, or excessive blowby past the rings.
@@volvo09ray told us in the video the oil is normal, smoke is the indicator of blow by.
A bit of oil splash with the cap off is normal, pressure is not.
I had a Hyundai Elantra 1.8 gdi 6spd manual
Always run on 98 octane fuel and did oil and filter every 10,000 kms
Did 350,000 in 8 years and the car was a tank
Never failed and never burnt oil
Hands down best car I ever had
Now drive an i30 N Line 6spd sedan and totally love it
After watching a hundred I Do Cars teardowns and 90% sludgy engines with gummed up rings, this cleaning has to help. Some of those pistons Eric shows us are glued solid.
Bought some of that there snake oil for my 80,000 mile Jaguar XF-S which runs good. WOW!!! Put it in 30 mins before the oil change and ran the engine up to 2,500 rpm to make sure the secondary turbo tasted a load of it. The car actually pushes me back into the seat again on full throttle, and the turbos are all quiet again - no whiffling. That stuff works! Thanks Ray.
I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited with a 1.8 L engine. It has 111,000 miles on it and it does not burn a drop of oil at all. I have heard that these newer engines are terrible about oil consumption when they get as many miles as this one has. Carry on Ray. Good Job!!
Hi, Ray! I'm the 6th owner of a 2011 VW Jetta with a 2.0 L 4 non turbo 4 cylinder engine. It's got 310,500 kilometers on it. Bought it from my 22 yr old son who was having issues with it in 2022. I've only put less than 10k kilometers on it over the past 2 years. Change the oil every 6 months because I don't drive much. Replaced the battery, fuel filter, ignition coil twice (second under warranty because defective Chineseium), spark plug cables twice and spark plugs (because I don't think the first shop that certified my car actually really replaced them...long story). Since I've owned the car, I had been adding a bottle of fuel injector cleaner to my tank every 3-4 months to try to improve performance and maintenance. I was using Seafoam high milage. After watching your videos (and Rich from FordBossMe recd it too); I bought a couple of cans of BG 44K fuel injectors cleaner. Followed the instructions and added a can to my gas tank when filling up about a month ago. After driving my car for about 30-60 minutes, I immediately noticed a difference. My engine was more responsive and my fuel economy was MUCH improved. I got 271 kilometers of range from a half tank of gas. Before, I was lucky if I got 160. People can call this stuff snake oil all they want, but I've tried just 1 of their products and I'm very impressed. RUclipsr Car Wizard has also had the BG guys in his shop and showed the atomizer method of using their products to de coke carbon buildup in engines. I get it, that there are alot of naysayers that have tried other products and the manufacturers claims might not have lived up to their expectations. Been there and done that myself. In my recent experience though, I think that the BG stuff really does work.
Bg does work but that car wizard is the biggest idiot on RUclips 😂 he literally doesn’t know shit about cars! The only people that think he’s a wizard are the ones who don’t know anything about cars lol
Good morning Ray, Lauren and Dave. Hope you ALL have a great day! Dave Birmingham England
What time is it over your pond?
Right now it's 1.53 PM. BTW shouldn't it be Y'all?
Scooted through birmingham last night on the M6 from rochdale to lutterworth 😎
I'm 59 years old. Back in the day when I played lead guitar in metal bands, I used the odd internal chemical additive. Carry on, Ray. Cheers.
Did it clean out your… deposits?
Did it resolve your blow-by problem?
@@Starchface Absolutely! Clean as whistle, inside and out.
@@emmettturner9452 Yes. If by deposits you mean bank account.
Good Morning. Love your videos.
I had some personal experience on this same oil burn problem I thought I could share with you.
After having the oil analyzed, it showed having fuel mixed into the oil.
It turned out the high pressure fuel pump was leaking into the oil and causing thinning and loss of viscosity. And recommended oil changes to increase to 1200 miles.
The fuel pump was the problem.
Good luck on this one and the cleaner did a great job.
Ray, you just shocked me. Initially I could not accept that the observed amount of crankcase pressure could come from blow-by. I was sure it had to be way more serious than that. HG or worse. I’m standing here beside myself. Cheers sir.
I've got a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD, with the 2.8 L Diesel engine. It's coming up on 160K miles. Have always used Amsoil AMO 10W-40 in it, along with one of their high efficiency oil filters. It's still tight and clean and runs like a top.
Every time I change the oil, I'll do a flush on it. Get it hot, then drain out the old oil and remove the old filter - put in 6 quarts of cheap 30 weight oil, a NAPA oil filter, and a can of Lubro-Moly engine flush - the run it for 15 minutes, occasionally revving it up.
When I drain out that 30 weight oil, it comes out just as black as the old oil - it's flushing out all the residual soot and other crap out of the engine - when it finishes draining out, the passages when the oil filter mounts is nothing but bright shiny metal.
Then I put in the good Amsoil filter, the Amsoil 10W-40, and a can of Lubro-Moly MOS4 additive.
A flush every single oil change? 🤨 Sounds like the oil you're using isn't very effective if that is actually necessary
I’d recommend a second conditioning oil change after the 30w. Something along the lines of 10w50 with a 30 micron filter to trap the soot. Then some Fabuloso.
I lost my job yesterday 😢 At least there is Ray’s videos 😊
You actually CHANGED jobs. Your new job is to find another job........get busy
You CHANGED jobs... i.e. you're still working.... your new job is finding another job.
Take a week off my friend. Kill the stress you have before you add to it looking for a new job.
losing your job, I think you got fired, is not nice. But remember: one door closes, another opens. Maybe you'r better off in the future with a new, better job
@@SiAnon finding a new job...
Like a door-to-door salesman where what counts is number of doorbells. Job search is psychologically overcoming the number of rejections. Also know you might find a 'stop-gap' job while continuing to look for what you really want.
It’s a Hyundai. It’s burning oil. In a couple of months it’ll be back with the complaint, “Customer states there’s a hole in the block.” Not surprised! Love the vids RRR!
If you take care of the post 2014 Theta II engines they run great. The 2011-14 engines were the problem
My 2014 Elantra GT is an oil burning, sludge monster. Still runs fine with 250k miles on it.
I found Lucas fuel treatment significantly reduces oil loss. But running 10W30 cured it.
@@Alboalt those pre-2014 Theta II engines made me a lot of money as a fire investigator! 🤣
@@Alboalt recalls up to 2020 so yea
@@TCBOT I have a 2015 sonata with the theta ii and got all the recalls. I'm aware of them.
I have understood that to check for ring problems put a squirt of oil in the cylinder first. You have convinced me that this stuff works after the last vehicle you poured that stuff into. I hope that off camera you cleaned up all that oil splatter.
This gotta be one of the most fun videos I’ve seen lately.
I love listening and watching ray do his job. He rocks this coming from a guy that turned wrench’s for 34 years. Wish he lived near me
If it was my car, I'd have a really hard time making the call to sink $800 into a chemical flush when it may need rings anyway. The results of the first flush still had a lot of blowby. I've been watching DIY Dave's channel as he fights the Toyota Corolla oil consumption via blowby the rings. He even did the BG full flush and the only chemical that has made much of a dent in the problem was when he was pouring Berryman's directly into the engine via removing the sparkplugs and letting it soak top down. I'm sort of interested in seeing some people use Valvoline's Restore & Protect. The problem with all of these is you really need to open up the engine to see the results. At least drop the pan and remove the valve cover(s). It's all a lot of work. ... in any case it's very entertaining and I'll be watching no matter what path you pick.
I have used similar things on a high mileage engine and it did help with the oil burning so I could do a trade in with out taking a bath on the value.
The customer should change the oil every 5000 miles or every 6 months which ever comes first, Great Video!
This is why I believe we should Always halve the manufacturers service intervals if you want your engine to last. Main Stealers just want you to buy a new car every three years, why would they help you to make it last?
I’d like a shirt that has the four sayings. Critical thinking etc.
Yes, sometimes magic in a can is needed and works! Worked for me with the Berrymans soak on my Scion xb.
And, you are definitely an honest and humble mechanic! We are few and far between. Plus a sense of humor.
Interesting! Let us know what happens at the 1k inspection!!!
I saw the oil stain on the engine cover and went... "Yeah, that thing's burning for you like Blue Oyster Cult." Hopefully the owner can get a few more miles out of it before the engine completely kicks the can.
Good job as always Rainman!
Hey Ray. We had a similar problem with carbon build up on the old BMW 528e. We saw carbon build up as soon as 5000 miles. On the lesser severe engines, we would run an oil cleaner additive, and at the same time, disable the fuel pump, and use the 3M injector cleaner since the engine had to run at @2000 RPM's. After that we would change the oil and add Techron to the fuel system. That fixed many of the carbon build up problems.
That BGR (Engine Restorer) is made to clean sludge inside the engine including the piston rings, that stuff has saved countless engines that have gotten gummed and sludged up and it is made here in the USA ! It will NOT FIX a damaged engine but it will clean gum and sludge out of piston rings and oil galleries inside and even the oil pan that can make an engine run poorly.
That's totally correct on the oil viscosity in my opinion Ray, thicker oil hurts stuff when cold flow and/or foaming are issues. But in sunny Florida, on an oil burning car, thicker oil is probably a good call. 👍
Definitely not hurting anything anyway...
Also, did y'all see that freehand oil pour??? Very impressive haha
It's pretty nice to see a source I trust use and demonstrate these products and when they apply before spending my own moneys on what could turn out to really be snake oil. Thank you once again Ray, it's greatly appreciated.
Nice to see they haven't got any better with the blow by oil burn! Had the 2003 version of this engine, oil burn was not good! Couldn't complain though, it did drive 4000km across Australia in January (summer here) with a 10cm hairline crack in top tank of radiator... would lose coolant down to crack line, otherwise no issues.
I like that you’re doing what you can to give the customer options on getting to the bottom of their problems. Good job Rainman Ray.
Hyundai put out a tsb to put 5w-30 in these engines so you made the right call originally.
Yes!! Results again!! Right in front of our faces! Like you said, "chemicals work on the outside so of course chemicals will work on the inside. You can't argue with the results!! Awesome Ray!!
Good Morning all
Not bashing anyone or trying to be an a-hole but, we've always, drained the oil, refilled with diesel, ran for a few mins, drained, new filter, new oil and was done, engine was cleaned and yes, you'd be surprised as to how much sludge you can remove from an engine this way. The one thing that always gets me is, the new mileage goals for oil changes, I've always been a firm believer in every 3k, never had any engine issues changing at a 3k interval. Great video as always, cheers :)
There's a mechanic I know that does that. Drain the oil and put diesel fuel in the engine 'cause diesel have more cleaning detergent. Run the engine a few minutes at 2000 rpm and drain in again. You can see how dirty the diesel fuel coming out. Then he puts the right engine oil and a good oil filter. But customers never complain of any problem. But bear in mind that diesel is more expensive.
@@csan255 Well, pending on what part of the world or country, per gallon vs oil quarts, diesel is still far cheaper. You only need to run a gallon through the system, at least that's how we've always done it since, after the clean out, that's when the oil filter would get changed. No point in having to change a filter twice, those get expensive.
Now if you're talking several gallons, yea, it does get expensive but, the cost in repairs vs spending a little in maintenance... well worth it and should be considered an "investment" not a cost. Cheers :)
It takes a special type of talent to fix a disposable car from Korea.
They simply want to go to the junkyard
@@volvo09 👍Junkyard heaven.
My grandparents bought a Santa Fe.. in their defense they’re in their late 80s and don’t know any better.. Although the car hasn’t been bad I’ve done work for them it’s never needed anything expensive just headlights and oil changes. Lots of headlights😂
@@bh2236 yeah it’s something with the lights.. haven’t had to do brake bulbs yet they’re still working but I’ve replaced the interior lighting with LED and they stopped burning out but my grandparents REFUSE to let me install LED headlight bulbs to fix the problem
@@bh2236 it’s a 2019 Santa Fe with halogens. I swapped my 1997 Chevrolet’s headlights for LEDs and now I get other people flashing their highs at me so I flash mine back. I mean the truck is a Z71 it’s headlights are at like at least windshield level for a small SUV so I guess it makes sense. I need to be able to see when I’m working at night though
I actually had the 2014 version of this car with the manual transmission. It was actually a really fun car to drive.
You could do a wet compression test by putting a teaspoon of oil down the cylinder if the compression shoots way up then it’s definitely ring problem because the oil will temporarily seal the rings a trick I learned from an oldtimer
was he called scotty? :)
Ray, it doesn't matter if you perform a bad job on a car or if you do a perfectly good repair. There will always be some Karen around to try and ruin your day. Just tell them to go see if it's raining on the far side of the block.
Watching because my wife has this motor and yes, I had to take the fuel line off and re-attach it back. Was a major pain.
Cleaning inside is tricky, adding anything but oil can impact the viscosity and increase wear. Additionally if you clean and create loose large pieces you can clog things up. And you need to be aware of where the cleaner can impact. I use seafoam occasionally in the fuel to help clean the valves and injectors on my port injected system. At the same time, if you use good oil and change it often enough the detergents in it should do the job as well.
I cant believe that oil cleaner worked so damn well. That's incredible. Products like this were all but useless when I was younger. Chemistry and material science rules.
One important thing we all ignore is that after engine flush process you must open the oil pan and clean the pickup tube of the oil pump and the oil pan it self cuz all that carbon buildup is going to gather down the oil pan and it won’t get out from the oil drain plug.
The major problem with Hyundai/Kia 2.0 is no cylinder liner. It’s piston rings against engine block and they wear quickly.
Mornin' Ray, I hope you have a great day! If I ever need car service, I'll come to you.
Yes, I'm in Tampa, 50 miles or so, but I would prefer you to check my car out. If it needs to be towed or not to there
Hyundai has a Technical Service Bulletin 23-EM-08 that will replace the engine if it fails the oil consumption. First they service the oil & install tamper proof seals & customer drives it for 1K miles and brings it back. If it fails then they run cleaner thru it for NC & if it passes after another 1K miles it's returned to service but if it fails they will replace the engine NC to the customer because they know the OE piston/ring pkg is defective. I've had several customers bring their cars to me b/c of oil consumption & misfires. I pull the sparkplugs and usually 1 or 2 are oil fouled. I send them to the dealer with my repair order and a copy of the TSB for them to perform. The majority of them have had their engines replaced for NC b/c Hyundai knows they have a problem hence the TSB. The TSB is for all models and all model years. My customers were happy I saved them a lot of $$ with that TSB and my customers thanked me.
Heywardsautomotive..yes you are correct and you know how to form a complete sentence..thats rare around here
I own a 2012 Hyundai Azera Limited, bought in 2016. It had 34K miles on it at that time. It now has 102K miles. I've had ZERO issues with it. It still runs like a champ. I'm one of those OCD detailer kinda guys. I stay on top of it scheduled maintenance needs. I adore this car and it still turns heads. Not bad for a 12 year old car. No complaints from me on Hyundai. Always use full synthetic oil and AMG batteries. Full system fuel cleaner ever other full tank. A little love for you car goes a loooong way.
Yes, if you are like myself and have worked from home for a decade or more, you wind up with a 2015 model car with 25k miles. I have finally settled on a 3k miles or 6 months oil change interval (whichever comes first). Yes I have used full synthetic oil since 1998. I can tell you the one time I forgot to specify synthetic, it was during the summer in Phoenix (my wife's car) and after 3k miles you could REALLY see the difference. Perfectly clean and shiny dipstick suddenly had a nice brown patina. Regular oil doesn't do well when you regularly drive in temperatures above 110.
Edit to add that I have used mechanic in a can before, and have no objections to it. It was on a 1984 Chrysler that started life as a Chicago rental car. Since then only new vehicles, so just kept up the normal maintenance and haven't needed any. My 2005 Honda Accord is still very reliable transportation for my sister (and still has a bright shiny dipstick).
i have a 2017 sonata burns about 3 quarts every 4000 miles this gives me hope
❤what price are we looking at for the last service you spoke about, 2 times degrease,then cleaner, then new oil and filter, finished, would just like to know. David, in RSa D urban.
Great video Ray! Unless my eyes deceived me I think I saw 100% Synthetic on that oil jug! Huuuum? Could Ray be trolling us? 😂✌️
I saw that too, and we watched as the seal was broken on the can!
I had a '72 ford stepside with a 351 Windsor. I just poured in what was on the garage shelf. That thing ran great on 40 weight.
I switched a Villiers small engine to Royal Purple 40 weight and it has never run better..!
This repair was brought to you by Bisquick.
Ray i have a lot of 2.0gdi experience on my 2014 Kia Soul and another one and 3 Elantras i am a retired master mechanic but i service a taxi Co. Taxis i found foamed or excessive blowby and consumption found bad PCV Valve and the HOSE PLUGGED UP!! I replaced hose and a genuine Kia PCV. Flushed with 1 can Rislone flush and 4 qt cheap oil for 45 min at 2k rpm and a new filter. Then drained and put on Wix Filter and 5 qt Mobil 1. 10w-40 ( these cars had 166k - 298k miles) all 4 cars straightened up and oil still full at 4k each and changed at that point! The PCV VALVE seemed to be the prob. One car had the valve changed before but with china valve. Im 71 and the 50's-80's are my favorites. Another tip is when mounting tires spray the rim and the bead with cheap clear or black spray paint. (After cleaning rim and bead) i have about 10 tires that have been on old cars for over 10 years never needing air until dry rot ends it! When changing failed tire the rim is still clean. I hope these tips work for you!
That snake oil seems to work pretty well for snake oil.😆
There is a hyundai bulletin on using chemicals to free oil control rings. Edit pour chemicals down the spark plug hole to un stick carbon up oil control rings.
Absolutely nothing wrong with 5w30 in a 5w20 especially in warmer climates.
Not an experiment to try up here in Canadia, but I feel like you could almost ignore that number after the W down in Florida!
@@TremaineLea been running 5w30 in a odyssey that calls for 0w20 for years in Saskatchewan.
Toyota hybrids need 0w20, but dealers here in Europe just pour in 5w-40. No issues with it. Reason: thicker, more oldfashioned oil is cheaper, and dealers and mechanics are quite conservative ('that oil is like water, can't be good).
But there's a reason that carmakers say to use some kind of oil....
They say to put a specific oil for a reason anything else will damage the engine
Hi Raymond doing a good job mate 👍
These engines are known for failure. There have been several class action lawsuits about them.
The warranty on the engines was extended to 150,000 miles. Plus, there is a knock sensor, software update recall.
I always see the GDI and read it as General Destruction Imminent 😂
My 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT with the 1.8L runs great with 160k miles. I drive it hard and doesn't burn oil. I maintain my car personally and it's been reliable.
People who drive Hyundai/Kia need to check their oil every week, plain and simple.
Anyone who drives anything should check their oil very regularly. I do at every fill up. Not just oil but a look under the hood for anything suspicious.
Everyone should
I do but it never goes down
My Hyundai's have all burned oil. I normally have to top off the oil 1/2 qt every 1500 miles.
The dealers use 5W30 in the engines. That reduces oil consumption. I use 10W30. Oil consumption is now zero.
My 2017 Elantra burns a qt every 2-3k miles not as annoying anymore since I don't drive it a lot it's at 144k miles. Upgrade to a 21 they don't burn nothing between 7,500 intervals now at 97k miles on her.
Valve Stem Seals / Worn Valve Guides are a common problem on the direct injected Hyundai's. I would run the leak down test and see if you have blow by coming out of crank case. You have blow by when running so.. you are probably right rings are toasty. If it is the rings, try a can of engine restore. It is a micro encapsulated copper. That will cause the cylinders to fill in wear marks. I have used it on engines I though were goners and people are still driving them years later.
Kia oil changes are due at 3,750 mile oil changes. Every single engine I have replaced were from oil changes at 5,000 miles intervals. That's including full synthetic oil changes. I have denied engines for warranty with 5k oil change intervals due to sludge buildup
sounds like a good reason to stay away from kia, besides there are les expensive, better quality vehicles in NA than a kia. but regardless people keep buying them
I saw reduced blow-by. Good vid Ray!
It’s a Hyundai it’s going to burn oil.
52:11 You nailed that comparison. Awesome!
When you have to drink the Liquid Plumber in a can for a colonoscopy..YOU GET CLEANED OUT INSIDE, very very clean. So why not an engine. Your insides are a lot nastier. And you get squeaky clean for a week.
I can remember my dad in the 1960's pouring Marvel Mystery Oil down the carburetor of a running V8. The smoking tailpipe was great to see as a young teenager. Low mileage and short, a couple mile, runs in a cool coastal environment the engine never got up to temperature. It worked then, and now with better chemistry I am sure it is a valid process.
Saw a Harley Ultra. You expanding to 2-wheel service now? Harleys will expand your curse word vocabulary greatly!!! 😂
Saving an engine transplant costing thousands for your customer. You are the man, Ray.
It a Hyundai/kea its a oil burner
Back in the Stone Age (60’s) I used a quart of varsol and used the same method to clean out the ancient stove bolt six I had. It worked great.
It was the “stoned” era at 420 for me.
Crikey, you young people are spoiled. I've run POS cars that use a quart every 100 miles. Leaking, burning, loading up at a light and a huge blue cloud (Hey Greta!) of smoke and spitting raw oil all over cars that stray too close when chugging away from the light. Sears oil was $0.79 a quart; was buying cases until I found out I could run the 10/40 oil that we changed out on hydraulic equipment. Car never left me stranded.
noooo...must be Amsoil, tested and proven by him
I remember those day.....years. Yeah, back when fuel was 80 to 95 CENTS a gallon. So on one hand these kids are spoiled. But on the other hand they have to take out a small loan to fill up their truck. Man, I miss the days of price wars on fuel prices around town. Now everyone wants 3 or 4 dollars a gallon, depending upon where you live of course.
Out of all the cars I've owned in the past 30 years, which has been a lot, only the Hyundai's burn oil right off the assembly line.
Supposedly, they fixed the problem many years ago.
@@donwyoming1936 Amsoil will restore it better than when it was made.
@@donwyoming1936 Aren't those just disposable cars anyway?
Everything I've ever used from BG has been outstanding. I'm running it in my Roush sright now, in fact.
I will give you mild discord till I see the RAINMAN RAY REPAIRS sign properly displayed for all to see.
I had a 93 Miata/MX-5 quite a few years ago now, that I decided to start using expensive Shell synthetic oil in. And it decided to start using a lot of oil between services. Switched back to a 10w40 mineral oil, and oil consumption was vastly reduced. But the engine had around 200000km on it by then, so I could only conclude that the slightly different properties of synthetic vs mineral oil and the wear in the engine must have effected the amount of oil sneaking past the rings. Interestingly though, I continued using mineral oil, and the engine was still running strong and maintaining minimal consumption between changes until I eventually sold the car. Of course driving it hard and regularly to redline may have helped. 🙂
The keyboard Karen's comment had me rolling! 😂😂😂😂
I like the products they do work to get the carbon down. The explanation was excellent and very professional. This method when it works can save the customer costly tear down. Love the content with my cup of coffee every day.
Wonder what Ray would think if i dropped off my vehicle for service with a case of brake clean sitting in it???
😂😂😂
I have used the bg product before and it works.
I've worked as a mailman and was given one of these as a delivery vehicle. I think they come neglected from the factory.
BG engine oil additive has done miracles for my 19 elantra.
After 600 miles without it in the oil nothing ..great stuff
Hahahahh Keyboard Karens!! I have not been on in awhile. That is hilarious!
If it's like mine, the oil leak on the bottom is the oil pan gasket and it CAN leak a quart in 4000 miles. The valves are caked because it's a direct injection which are easy to clean. Check the intake manifold for blowby product including a nasty looking liquid in the valve runners. Just my experience. To do a compression test their is a connector under the intake manifold that easy to disconnect and disable the fuel injectors. The best scope is a HD with moveable head and side view camera, I love my DXZtoz AGC500L Articulating Borescope, not endorsing just what I got cheap off the 3bay and works well with video and camera recording abilities and even DUAL view with side and front at the same time.
God damn the 5 bots with the copy paste thanks messages.
yeah, I report them
Mine wasn't a copy paste
@@jezeski2011 yours didn't appear when I commented. Im taking about the ones with the lady PFP talking about a real find, blah blah blah
@@legionofanon I was just trying to be funny; kinda like Ray's awesome sarcasm...
Guess I missed the mark a little. Oh well. Take care.
@@jezeski2011 sarcasm is a hard read in text
Fan since the beginning! Love your channel! 🫶👍
A Hyundai with a bad engine.
Nah, that's not possible. They make the best engines.. there are no class action lawsuits against them, and it's not like their engines self destruct or anything
Welcoming back!
I have been a Nissan and ASE master tech since 1989. BG products work. Prior to using BG I would put in 1 quart of ATF in the engine oil and run the engine at 2k rpms for 30 minutes. I would let it sit for an hour then change the oil again. It worked well for stuck/carbon stuck rings
We used the BG products where I used to work. It works!
I've seen many videos of using Engine Flushes on neglected high mileage vehicles. They Do Work to some extent. If you are lucky to clean those Carbonized Stuck Rings BEFORE damage has been done, you can save thousands of dollars. ROSOLENE was my go to product years ago. Seafoam works good for light intake Induction cleaning. Also I recommend CRC Intake and Turbo Cleaner. On Severe Deposits, more than one application is needed. If by the second cleaning you don't have positive results, then more intense expensive options will be required.
After work Rainman video with a nice,cold Cherry Coke! YES!
You are the best mechanic ever and I love your videos 😊