BMW E60 M5 Belts & Pulleys Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Time to change out the belts and pulleys on the E60 M5.
This is a job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item, or if your belts are looking worn, or your pulleys are making a chirping or grumbling sound.
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Part numbers-
A/C Belt 6PK1084, 11287835483
Alternator Belt 6PK1432, 11287838226
Idler pulley- off set, 11287841228
Tensioner Pulleys (X2) 11281440237
Great tip on the alternative part # tensioner pulleys. Big $$$ savings!
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Great stuff mate, very informative. I'll be doing this in the not too distance future on my E63
Nice one, good job to get done 👍
Its time to change mine as well. The screeching noise is louder than anything else.
I wonder how many hours of labour it took to do that?
M tech guy always killing it with M5 content🫡
Cheers brother, yeah get it changed out ASAP if it’s noisey! Takes me 3 times longer than normal because I’m filming it!
Good job brother, wish you the best.
M5/E60 2007
Thanks for watching
Another great video. I didn’t hear wildlife in the background though. What happened? Social Distancing??? The Febi pulleys are a great tip, they are INA bearings the Febi part number I have is 23165.
Thanks Hansbrix, yes no bird life around that morning, just all the neighbours stuck at home making background noise instead.
Great video as always man, I believe I’m on original belts and pulleys so figured it’s time to do them, so this helps a lot. May end up doing a power pulley kit while in there. Some people say they notice a little power difference and some don’t, but most people agree it revs a little faster. I guess we’ll see if I end up going that route. Hope all is well with you!
Good to hear from you man! Yeah, if they are still original get them changed out for sure. I’ve never used underdrive pulleys before so not sure how that would work out? You must of had you M5 for a few years now aye?
@@MTechGuy Yes I’ve had it for 7 years now and about to hit 142k miles. How long have you had yours for? How did you know the part # trick about buying the pulley by itself instead of the whole tensioner assembly with the arm? You saved me $300 as the tensioner assembly is $150 on FCP ($190 on ECS). Absolute legendary savings tip there so thank you very much! I used that money saved to buy the underdrive pulley kit, haven’t done this yet but might notice a little difference from what I’ve read.
@@AlexGray 7 years, that’s awesome man! Had mine just over 4 years now, the more I drive it and the longer I own it the more I like it. Yeah bit of a saving just replacing the pulley itself. Be interesting to hear how the underdrive kit goes
Hey man, I'm finally getting around to this job, but I can't find torque values anywhere. Did you just tighten the pulleys and tensioners by hand?
Yes, tightened all the bolts by hand
Question, I read that some guy had the pivot bearing for the tensioner pulley assembly wear out and cause a failure. I really want to save money and just replace the pulleys, but how likely is a failure in one of those bearings or hydraulic tensioners?
It’s not common, but if you are concerned- when you come to replace the pulleys remove the tensioner units and inspect the pivot for free movement and the hydraulic tensioner for leaks. Oil the pivot if you want. If your car has high miles I would just replace the whole tensioner units though
Bro I just wanna say God bless you appreciated your video help me a lot thank you so much🥺
Cheers man, glad you found the video of value. Thanks for watching!
Great video, iv had my m5 for over 6 years and never thought about ch0these parts. Iv now ordered them. Chefs and keep up the good work
Thanks man, appreciate it. It’s a good job to get done, you’ll more than likely find the old pulleys will be pretty worn
Is it the same for the e92 m3?
Nice car! Similar set up but the part numbers may differ slightly. On the E9X V8’s in 2008 there was also a change with the pulley set up, to consider
Super helpful, clutch man
Thanks for watching man 👍
Hi there. So I have a 2008 M5 with 80K on the clock. So recently I've had a consistent squeaking sound from what I'm assuming is power steering belt/pulley system, it gets more pronounced when I turn the wheel, but yesterday I was driving and turned on the AC, which made the squeaking louder and faster. 2 minutes later the AC stopped blowing cold air, the squeaking stopped and I lost all power steering. SO yea. AC and power steering are lost, and I checked the PS reservoir and it was full. So I'm thinking its an Idler pulley and belts? I'm new to my car so I haven't looked around there. What should I consider addressing? Not really thrilled about the $700 dollar full Drive belt kit.
The power steering pump and A/C compressor share the same belt. Sounds like the belt/tensioner pulley have worn and broken. Your other belt and pulleys will more than likely be similar condition. Buy the parts as listed in the video description- will cost a lot less than $700, and replace the whole lot! Inspect the tensioners while your in there.
@@MTechGuy Thank you. I referenced the part numbers and ordered the pulleys/belts. I will follow up this week! Keep making M5 videos these are very informative!
Nice one man, hope you get it all sorted out and back running 100% again. Thanks for watching the videos!
So my ac compressor is bad and causes the pulley to make a terrible sound, anyway I can bypass it and not have to buy and replace the whole ac compressor?! I don't care about having ac lol.
Just remove the belt for the time being.
It’s worth sorting your A/C though, even if you fit a good used compressor
@@MTechGuy forsure thank you!!! I really do need to drive it, its gintani tuned on full e85 and don't like it to sit for more then 2 days, but then again I didn't want the compressor to blow up and throw metal everywhere and destroy everything thats in the same area, appreciate the help man bigtime! Would pulling the ac fuse work as well?!
@@MTechGuy And when I remove the belt for ac compressor, I won't have power steering??!
@@jameswiththeM6 Yes, that’s a good point! My mistake- I’m thinking of a different BMW engine 🙃 Don’t remove the belt!!
@@MTechGuy Also im doing the bigger belt now and am stuck on the last part, which is getting the belt over the tensioner, it feels like even when the tension is released to the maximum the belt still wont slip over the tensioner pulley?! Any tips or tricks?!
10:33... WHERE is the 14mm bolt / nut to release the tensioner? That is the most important of the job and u skipped it!
The head of the bolt holding the pulley to the tensioner, it’s right in the centre of the pulley!
@@MTechGuy Right. I was looking for a T60 hole to rotate the arm, like on many other models of BMW. I was not sure turning the 14mm bolt would ease the tension or tighten the bolt (and strip or break it.) You totally skipped that important part.
Mtechguy, can you check my thread out on the M5 board? I can of figure out this noise I’m getting man. It’s not too long. The 4 second video really isolates the sound I’m hearing. The performance is flawless right now and car has 0 faults. Details in the thread. Thanks www.m5board.com/threads/weird-noise-from-bottom-end-video.609815/
Based on your video without standing in front of it, I’d say pulley/tensioner
M Tech Guy should I be worried about driving the car. I don’t know if you read but I just drove it 100 miles and it’s fine. My mechanic couldn’t “replicate the noise earlier” so there was nothing to fix
Get it sorted. It will drive fine until a pulley/tensioner seizes and breaks a belt. Get the pulleys & tensioners looked at, run the car for a couple of minutes with each belt removed to confirm it is actually a bad pulley/tensioner
2006 BMW M5 owner. My problem right now is the Alternator belt not being able to go over my tensioner pully. When I try to install the belt it seems as though its a tad bit small. The tensioner pully is fully retracted to furthest it can go. I double checked all of contact points of the belt to the pullies and everything seems to be seated well. I wonder if I can loosen the bolts to the tensioner pully assembly a bit to offer a bit more slack then retighten after the belt is fully installed. Any hints?
You shouldn’t have to loosen anything, if the belt is the correct length and it’s routed correctly it should slip on easily with the tensioner retracted
@@MTechGuy I've tried to reinstall the OEM belt to be sure if the new belt was correct. It had the same issue so I uninstalled it. After that, I loosened the tensioner mount assembly bolts then retightened the bolts while retracting the tensioner a small amount. This seemed to help a bit.... then it started to rain. lol. Thank you for your reply!
Make sure the belt is pulled taught on all the other pulleys, if it’s baggy on one it can catch you out getting it over the last one. Make the easiest to access pulley that last one to slip the belt over- it doesn’t have to be the tensioner pulley last
@@MTechGuy Yup, thank you! We finished it today. It may have to do with the belt being a heavy duty type and its brand. It's a Gates heavy duty belt and about 1.5 mm thicker than the OEM belt. For our last pully we used the top coolant pump pully and some prying tools. It was a bit like getting a new Continental road bike tire on for the first time. I installed a Gates heavy duty on the a/c side too without issue. My steering is more responsive now.
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Just completed this job with the help of this vid. I had the radiator out so made sense to do it whilst I had the additional working space. Used INA P/N 531 0891 10 for the tensioner pulleys without the bolt or backing plate. Saves a few extra ££. Great vid 👍
Cheers Duncs M5, sounds like your M5 is being well looked after 👍