Karl is the best photographer and teacher. Many can take good photos, but one who can educate others is the true one. Joule part I learned from him in terms of F-Stop.
When I was a Paramedic we used Lifepak cardiac defibulators to shock a persons back into a rhythm. The max we had were 360 Joules available. I cannot even imagine getting shocked by a 3200 Joules block. That will send you flying across the room. LOL Great video.
I once took an Elinchrom 1200J monoblock apart to try and extract a loose screw. Stupidly I inserted a screwdriver in to reach it....Next thing with a big bang my arm was knocked back and the screw driver sent flying across the room. It had a 5mm burn mark into the metal shaft, luckily I was unharmed as I only had my hand on the plastic handle of the screwdriver. Lesson learned... Let a qualified technician deal with it.
That should answer a lot of people's questions! One thing to know about pack-and-head systems is that they can draw a lot of power from the AC/mains... not a problem if you have a nice studio like Karl's with dedicated circuits for everything, but something to watch out for on locations. I used to shoot market-research photos in-house for a large corporation, and our little studio was next to the IT department... one day for some reason we had to fire both 2400-joule packs at full power, tripped the circuit breaker, and all the computers next door went dark! They were not happy with us...
well 2 packs on uk system would be 20 amps if was 2400 joules x2 = 20 amps I think is correct. For usa it would be on 110v system, and 1 2400 joules pack = 2400 watts would be 20 amps , with most circuit breakers 15 to 20 amps. But that isnt telling everything I assume the 2400 joules is only the output and not power draw.
@@reality150tv I think that's correct that the power rating is usually measured at the capacitors not the outlet, but I could see the charging circuits drawing too much power. I may be mistaken but I thought the UK had overcurrent control built into their power ports and often the plug itself. It's been over a decade since I personally lived there so I may not have it right. If I am correct I'd say this is less of a risk in the UK than the US where the overcurrrent control is only for protecting the in-wall wiring fom bursting into flames.
For anyone that is confused, a Joule is the same as a Ws (watt second). 800 Joules is 800 Ws. I may have missed it but I don't think it was mentioned in the video, and I think in the US at least, studio light power specs are generally listed in Ws and not Joules.
@@nilofido411 yes, watts is POWER ie: what is consumed by your toaster/heater, etc. so a 500W generator from a hardware store can power you shaver, a caravan small bar fridge, etc. Joule is a measure of heat energy, ie with food, a KJ of energy used while jogging ( but as a side note, defibrilators use joules as power settings to)- this is electricity, not light or chemical energy. I presume the use of watts is to estimate if this power pack can be used in the circuit of the building, ie if there is enough amps without 'blowing' the rcd or circuit breaker in the meter box, a bit like using a stick welder, you need a high current circuit to run these, so you don't inadvertently start a wiring fire, due to over stressing the wire in the house.
@@VisualEducationStudio Help? It's a boon, a blessing! I can't emphasise enough what a great thing you're doing to this world. I wish one day I get to meet and shake hands with you in person! Heartful gratitude for your consistent efforts as an artist and as a teacher!
Karl , what a nice scientific presentation! unlike all others you see around. People could see the quality here, no wonder you use a Hasselblad. I really like your style. Dr Ahmed Fathie Ph.D.
Crazy. I thought my $2,800 flash setup was expensive. To know that power pack is the price of a used BMW is quite insane to think about. Hopefully I can get to that level someday. I'd take the Profoto Pro 11 instead to fit my ecosystem lol. Thanks for all the info!
Outstanding explanation. I wish someone would have explained this quite as succinctly as you have. I would have purchased different lights for what I shoot. Unfortunately, most companies love to want to buy their "biggest and baddest" new iteration of their products. Thank you.
I must admit to been a Broncolor fan from why back with 606 and 302 to now I have the Siros 800s and 800L just love there kit. Thanks for a nice little video.
Thank you Karl! I've been playing around with speedlites recently and didn't want to jump into studio lights in fear of thinking it was above my skill level. Thank you for this simple approach in understanding this misconception of studio lights.
I purchased my first budget strobe for my stock photography It has been the single best thing I have ever done The photos are crisp No need to mess about with trying to whiten the background and it has bought a whole new level of what can be achieved with my standard setup I wish I had ditched the speedflash and got a strobe from the start
You have such command over the subject. I never try to miss your tutorials. You are one of the best teachers of photography. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
What a great video! Thanks for that. I wish, I would have found that earlier. There are so many videos, but not even the half of them are so well explained! 📸
This lockdown has been a blessing mate It's like you have a physchic connection for my next step in photography! Much appreciate all your videos and most recently love these recent influx of videos Karl One love
I also tell new photographers to consider how much power they anticipate needing. That 400ws monolight may be less expensive but may have issues when fired at top settings with little recycling time compared to an 800ws unit when fired at half power.
Thank you for this great video. I've been researching what to get for my first flash and since I've done a lot of commercial and industrial lighting design I was expecting to see terms like "lumens" and "photometry" and "beam angle" but nothing I looked at had those specs. I can see these studio flashes are rated differently than commercial lighting and I'm guessing I'll look for maybe imperial units in the states like Watts or something instead of Jules. My goal is to one day sell a minimum of one photo, but enjoy the creative process and learning with every photo. With your videos, I know I'll get there. Thanks again.
Dear Karl! You had clearly explained the basics of maths (square root priciple) and physics (what square root principle means for light/illumination) to those who were asleep during school lessons [or if even not asleep thinking about other miracles of life]. Many of them, the „dreamers” suppose and believe: „I’ve got talent! I will show it! Just give me this perfect tool I will conquer the World!” Or the another question: „What equipment should I buy? Nik/Can/srututu-tutu?”... NO! First of all start with basics. Knowledge and experience. May be some ingenious photos happens by accident but I do not believe in magic wand.
That remote flash trigger on the camera appeared to only have a single contact on the bottom of it, similar to much older speedlites from the film days. Does that still have any sort of camera-controlled TTL flash metering or is it exclusively manually controlled settings?
I can't see any point in TTL on a studio flash, the whole process of working with light in a studio is where the photographer makes the decisions on the exposure level of the flash. The trigger fires the flashes and you can also control the power up and down from the trigger if you wish but I prefer to walk over to the light and change it on the dial or do it from the app or computer controler.
Big fan of your work Karl, but at 6:09 i doubt that one of the reasons people get the power pack systems is bcus of the controls for the flash being on ground level. Every good flash system now can be controled from the trigger which is mounted on the camera regardless of the hight of the flash light.
Thank you Akpe, yes I did mention that some monoblocs can be controlled from wifi apps and the triggers however I personally often find this fiddly (lost wifi, not knowing which light etc) and prefer the convenience of having the controls to 3 lights on one pack at ground level. Of course the desktop apps and mobile apps have gotten much better and it is probably as convenient but there is still something I like about having it at your fingertips. The outright main reason for most pros opting for packs would be the other features I mentioned and the extra power.
Is there a way to use a Generator Inverter for 2 Bowens Gemini strobe Lights 500w? Is it safe? Of course the generator could work for many more things but was thinking if it's a considerable option for location shooting? In case of taking them or just stick with the speedlites?
Would you say continuous light has an advantage over flash for film photography? Or should I use my modeling lamp to find out the right placement of the flash head before taking the shot? Or is this kind of a vice versa scenario?
Hi Adrian no I don't think continuous light has any advantages over studio flash lighting for stills photography whether it is digital or film. At some point in the future when it's possible to achieve clean images at 64,000 iso and assuming you can work in a completely darkened studio that has no ambient light leaks as well as the continuous light being adjustable in 1/10th of an f-stop with a CRI of 100, then it may start to have some advantages.
It's all relative to how far away you are from the light and how long you look at it but if you fired 3000j at your eye (don't do this) from a meter or two away you won't be able to see much for quite a while, and that is just for about 1/1000th of a second. If you looked at the sun for 1/1000th of a second it wouldn't hurt as much. However you generally use studio lights with modifiers on and not often on full power. I'd have to measure the output of the sun on a clear sunny day and the flash from a couple of meters to give you the lux but I'm not going to do that, you can probably find the answer on the web.
Thank you so much for your super video! I am not a professional photographer but built myself a small photo studio with everything you need as a professional, only all of it smaller and terribly improvised. I want to upgrade my whole system, since the triggering of the small battery driven flashes has been unreliable, slow and too week. Godox is probably the brand I should go for but I’m quite uncertain, what the system should look like. I have been using up to 3 flashes and want a system, that can freeze action, e.g. my model jumping in the air. But I also shoot groups of people/families. I reserved about 3 to 4000 Euros for that, now all I need, is a sensible combination of flashes, everything else is already available. What would you suggest? How much power do I need? My studio is 4X5 meters. I don’t earn money with my photographic work and don’t need to. It’s all just a lot of fun!
Thanks Karl, for the masterpiece of information and clarification on how studio lights works. Just want to know if it advisable to flash the studio strobe while modelling light is on or does it have a negative effect on the output.
Although I understand flash has the ability to freeze movement compared to led, is there any actual application for led in photography? Also, what do we get with broncolor or prophoto lights compared to let’s say much cheaper alternatives like godox? In the monitor world, yes you can get a very good benq but eizo will still give you much better uniformity.
Hi Maxime, some people just understand continuous light more easily, in a sort of 'what you see is what you get' manner but as explained it's not as versatile for many reasons, especially when photographing people/fashion. In relation to your other question on lighting brands, light is light out of a flash tube but it's how long it lasts, how consistent the exposures are, for example every shot with my bron light is going to be exactly the same exposure which means layering images is easy. Durability of the brand is important to pros as the equipment gets a beating. And most importantly for me is what are the choice of modifiers available to me.
Hi Karl, could you perhaps direct me to an overview of (T.1) flash durations for specific power settings? I am running into the limits of my 800L's with dance photography and would like to compare with several power packs (move and scoro) to see which one would suit me best. I haven't been able to find the information so far.
Hi Filbert, I'm surprised you're running to the limits on your 800L you'd have to compare the duration specs to the 800S on brons website then against the Scoro. The Scoro gives you a bit fast duration and a bit more power but as with all of their fast flash durations you have to drop the power of the units down to 5.5 or below to get the really fast speeds.
@@VisualEducationStudio I was shooting a group of dancers with a narrow grid + gel, which ate quite a few stops so I needed full power on the 800L. I'll try to find the Scoro specs again. Maybe a flooter on the 800L would do the trick as well. Thanks for your reply!
@@VisualEducationStudio I did some more research. Turns out I should have used the HS mode at power setting 9 (not 10), then bumped the iso one stop. Would have given me a t.1 of around 1/800 of a second, which would have done the trick. Live and learn. I'll still check out what extra the packs deliver though, as a bit of extra depth of field is always welcome.
Great explanations well done. Can I ask you something? Have you heard of the "Justin Clamp"? If yes how do you rate something like that? I'm just curious.
@@VisualEducationStudio Never thought you haven't, this clamp is for photographers. I've made a video how to make one, watch it if you are interested. Keep safe
I just looked it up, we call those T clamps because of their shape. We have about 10 of those and Kupo clamps and many other types all useful for holding background boards, props and attaching to C-stands grips.
@@VisualEducationStudio omg my mistake I see your continous light is strobe because I m newbie and still learn photography. Thanks for your explain sir very nice channel 👍👍 Im already subs 😁 cheers
Yes one joule is equivalent to one Watt Second but in Europe studio lighting is described and sold in Joules (energy) so it's pretty clear to talk about it in this way.
Hello Karlingtons! Grrr! Don't know what to do for my next step. Need some advice or guidance I currently own a Lumix G85 Which so far, I have enjoyed using I am now at a breaking point and need to change my setup. I don't know what to do. I have spent a bit on the lenses and am in the Lumix eco system but for my needs this specific model just ain't working for me These are things I now know that I need 1. Tethered cable is a must (my g85 doesn't support it) 2. I need my next camera to be ideal for stock photography 3. To provide higher ISOs and a wider range of manual controls Anyone have any ideas what I can do It takes me months to research this stuff I am also going to be stuck with a bunch of gear if I change the system or brand Thanks in advance
Hi, it sounds like you've already made up your mind and you are going to need to sell your current stuff. If I was buying 35mm again then I'd probably go Sony and their 90mm Macro lens which is excellent. If I wanted to go Medium Format on a budget then I'd X1Dii (others will argue Fuji, but I need higher sync speeds for my fashion work). I think the new Canon Mirrorless also look interesting, I've got older 5dmk3s still working fine but I use the H6 for 99% of my work.
I hope so but who knows when. We've scheduled this years workshop with Tim Flach for next year now and due to some of the cancellations because of covid their should be some spaces for that. It's in March 2021.
Hi Karl , I was wondering if you have experience on location with the Broncolor Siros 800L. I love mine and I use mine on a Fujifilm XH1 with a Broncolor RFS2.2F I set the unit up for RF and set My channel works Flawlessly ,BUT the flash starts firing by Itself even If I shut the camera and Trigger off. Thought maybe there was interference from My Phone or Phones everybody shut their Phones off. Still firing By itself. We were on location out in the woods Miles from any towers or city. Have you ever experienced this?
Hi no I've not experienced that. As with anything like this it would be best to speak to your bron dealer or video it when it happens and speak to broncolor.
good video & very well explained.. that Broncolor Scoro S is a really nice piece of kit.. makes my Godox sk300ii's look pitiful...haha.. although I could buy 120 of my strobes for the price of your power pack.. it depends where you are at & I know you've been a pro for years & ive been doing it 3.. all I can do is aspire to be at your level one day & hope I am..
What I try to say is that power 0.5 on the Unilite and power 2 on the Siros 800 is the same, it's only upward that the difference exists, that's kind of missleading because while Unilite 3200 power 10 means 2 stops brighter Siros 800 power 10 but their lowest point are the same, but described as 2 different power values...
Yes that's the maths but I find at the very lowest powers the joules can be a bit iffy in their supposed values and actual output. The Scoro shows you the Joules which is nice. It's obviously got 2 stops up above the Siros if only using one lamp in the pack (which is not very often).
Thank u so much sir love from India u share such a incredible knowledge to every photographer I was saw u r last video Honestly business advice on tough time. that's really spark me about of commercial photography on to a business it's really help me to generate a big revenue through your business bullets point. I want to purchase u r course Bt there is some trouble I have only debit card but u r payment method process through credit card and PayPal money transfer.I tried through Bt PayPal web site not transfering money due to covid-19 . there's the main issue I m eagarly waiting for u r purchasing u r course there any other solution to purchasing u r course.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Karl is the best photographer and teacher. Many can take good photos, but one who can educate others is the true one.
Joule part I learned from him in terms of F-Stop.
When I was a Paramedic we used Lifepak cardiac defibulators to shock a persons back into a rhythm. The max we had were 360 Joules available. I cannot even imagine getting shocked by a 3200 Joules block. That will send you flying across the room. LOL Great video.
I once took an Elinchrom 1200J monoblock apart to try and extract a loose screw. Stupidly I inserted a screwdriver in to reach it....Next thing with a big bang my arm was knocked back and the screw driver sent flying across the room. It had a 5mm burn mark into the metal shaft, luckily I was unharmed as I only had my hand on the plastic handle of the screwdriver. Lesson learned... Let a qualified technician deal with it.
That should answer a lot of people's questions! One thing to know about pack-and-head systems is that they can draw a lot of power from the AC/mains... not a problem if you have a nice studio like Karl's with dedicated circuits for everything, but something to watch out for on locations. I used to shoot market-research photos in-house for a large corporation, and our little studio was next to the IT department... one day for some reason we had to fire both 2400-joule packs at full power, tripped the circuit breaker, and all the computers next door went dark! They were not happy with us...
Ha Ha yes good point!
Exactly why I'm considering if I can get by with a Move pack....
well 2 packs on uk system would be 20 amps if was 2400 joules x2 = 20 amps I think is correct. For usa it would be on 110v system, and 1 2400 joules pack = 2400 watts would be 20 amps , with most circuit breakers 15 to 20 amps. But that isnt telling everything I assume the 2400 joules is only the output and not power draw.
@@reality150tv I think that's correct that the power rating is usually measured at the capacitors not the outlet, but I could see the charging circuits drawing too much power. I may be mistaken but I thought the UK had overcurrent control built into their power ports and often the plug itself. It's been over a decade since I personally lived there so I may not have it right. If I am correct I'd say this is less of a risk in the UK than the US where the overcurrrent control is only for protecting the in-wall wiring fom bursting into flames.
Happened to me at hotel
And that's the difference between a pro talking and a simple youtuber... Thx for great clarifications Karl!
i’m young beginner photographer who lives in ethiopia and i really want to thank you for your sharing experience
Thanks
For anyone that is confused, a Joule is the same as a Ws (watt second). 800 Joules is 800 Ws. I may have missed it but I don't think it was mentioned in the video, and I think in the US at least, studio light power specs are generally listed in Ws and not Joules.
Thanks I thought about mentioning it but then I thought it might get too confusing! I didn't realise the USA used Watt Seconds on studio lighting :)
Karl Taylor actually watts is equal to joule/seconds 😎 P(w)=E(j)/t(s) watts is power, joules is energy
Thanks
@@nilofido411 yes, watts is POWER ie: what is consumed by your toaster/heater, etc. so a 500W generator from a hardware store can power you shaver, a caravan small bar fridge, etc. Joule is a measure of heat energy, ie with food, a KJ of energy used while jogging ( but as a side note, defibrilators use joules as power settings to)- this is electricity, not light or chemical energy. I presume the use of watts is to estimate if this power pack can be used in the circuit of the building, ie if there is enough amps without 'blowing' the rcd or circuit breaker in the meter box, a bit like using a stick welder, you need a high current circuit to run these, so you don't inadvertently start a wiring fire, due to over stressing the wire in the house.
Thank you so much... I went and googled it. it was no help. But your answer was. Thank you
Can't imagine today's photography scenario without you, Karl. As Ansel Adams gave a legacy, you gave us knowledge!
That's very kind Abhinavanan, thank you 🙏 for your feedback! It's always good to hear our training helps!
@@VisualEducationStudio Help? It's a boon, a blessing! I can't emphasise enough what a great thing you're doing to this world. I wish one day I get to meet and shake hands with you in person! Heartful gratitude for your consistent efforts as an artist and as a teacher!
Karl , what a nice scientific presentation! unlike all others you see around. People could see the quality here, no wonder you use a Hasselblad. I really like your style. Dr Ahmed Fathie Ph.D.
I like the way you teach. Often clear and straight to the point.
thanks
Crazy. I thought my $2,800 flash setup was expensive. To know that power pack is the price of a used BMW is quite insane to think about. Hopefully I can get to that level someday. I'd take the Profoto Pro 11 instead to fit my ecosystem lol. Thanks for all the info!
Outstanding explanation. I wish someone would have explained this quite as succinctly as you have. I would have purchased different lights for what I shoot. Unfortunately, most companies love to want to buy their "biggest and baddest" new iteration of their products. Thank you.
This must be a Masterclass! Huge Love and Respect for you Sir from Pakistan! 💖😇
I must admit to been a Broncolor fan from why back with 606 and 302 to now I have the Siros 800s and 800L just love there kit. Thanks for a nice little video.
Thanks John
Thank you Karl! I've been playing around with speedlites recently and didn't want to jump into studio lights in fear of thinking it was above my skill level. Thank you for this simple approach in understanding this misconception of studio lights.
Happy to help.
I purchased my first budget strobe for my stock photography
It has been the single best thing I have ever done
The photos are crisp
No need to mess about with trying to whiten the background and it has bought a whole new level of what can be achieved with my standard setup
I wish I had ditched the speedflash and got a strobe from the start
@@deepmystic5850 Which strobe setup did you purchase?
fabulous video, best explanation of studio lights that I have come across
Glad it was helpful!
You have such command over the subject. I never try to miss your tutorials. You are one of the best teachers of photography. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
Thank you so much
What a great video! Thanks for that. I wish, I would have found that earlier. There are so many videos, but not even the half of them are so well explained! 📸
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the information. It's a good idea to refresh your knowledge from time to time.
Cheers from Mother Russia
Thanks and cheers for watching.
Another brilliant video Karl, your a natural when it comes to teaching!
Glad you enjoyed it
This lockdown has been a blessing mate
It's like you have a physchic connection for my next step in photography!
Much appreciate all your videos and most recently love these recent influx of videos Karl
One love
Cheers
Thanks Karl!!!!! This is just the information that I was looking for. Awesome!
Great, much more in this section that you might find useful too: karltayloreducation.com/lighting-theory-and-equipment/
I also tell new photographers to consider how much power they anticipate needing. That 400ws monolight may be less expensive but may have issues when fired at top settings with little recycling time compared to an 800ws unit when fired at half power.
Just bought the ad1200 pro pack and head system, battery powered.
A masterpiece of clarity. Thanks!
You're very welcome
Is the rule for the joules to light ration the same with Watts? Like, is a 400watt flash one half a stop worse then a 600watt?
1J = 1ws. So yes your calculation is correct.
Thanks for showing the other side of Pro photography.
Very interesting and same for other pro domains, prices are stratospheric 😅
Love the content you provide! I’d love to see you do something on outdoor lighting too🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿✊🏿✊🏿✊🏿
Hi, thanks. If you search around on our channel you'll probably find a previous video if not we have tons on that on our site.
Thank you for this great video. I've been researching what to get for my first flash and since I've done a lot of commercial and industrial lighting design I was expecting to see terms like "lumens" and "photometry" and "beam angle" but nothing I looked at had those specs. I can see these studio flashes are rated differently than commercial lighting and I'm guessing I'll look for maybe imperial units in the states like Watts or something instead of Jules. My goal is to one day sell a minimum of one photo, but enjoy the creative process and learning with every photo. With your videos, I know I'll get there. Thanks again.
Thanks. Watts/seconds are equivalent to joules.
Dear Karl! You had clearly explained the basics of maths (square root priciple) and physics (what square root principle means for light/illumination) to those who were asleep during school lessons [or if even not asleep thinking about other miracles of life]. Many of them, the „dreamers” suppose and believe: „I’ve got talent! I will show it! Just give me this perfect tool I will conquer the World!” Or the another question: „What equipment should I buy? Nik/Can/srututu-tutu?”...
NO! First of all start with basics. Knowledge and experience. May be some ingenious photos happens by accident but I do not believe in magic wand.
Exactly on point.
Very good overview. As a physicst I am obliged to complain that you say "joules of power". Joules is the unit of energy :)
yeah, got me cringing hearing joules multiple times. peace!
I thank you for your ebook and the way you describe about the subjects
cheers
Thank you Karl. You are very informative. I just learn so much from you.
My pleasure!
Very useful content.... Simply explained.... As usual. Thank you sir
Your welcome
Thank you so much Karl, this sharpened my knowledge. You are an amazing teacher
thank you
Thanks, wish you Karl the Best!!
Thank you too
great explanation Karl, your videos are really instructive
Glad to hear that cheers
These look perfect for dance photography
That remote flash trigger on the camera appeared to only have a single contact on the bottom of it, similar to much older speedlites from the film days. Does that still have any sort of camera-controlled TTL flash metering or is it exclusively manually controlled settings?
I can't see any point in TTL on a studio flash, the whole process of working with light in a studio is where the photographer makes the decisions on the exposure level of the flash. The trigger fires the flashes and you can also control the power up and down from the trigger if you wish but I prefer to walk over to the light and change it on the dial or do it from the app or computer controler.
Amazingly simple and informative. Thank you sir for your continuous support.
thanks
Big fan of your work Karl, but at 6:09 i doubt that one of the reasons people get the power pack systems is bcus of the controls for the flash being on ground level. Every good flash system now can be controled from the trigger which is mounted on the camera regardless of the hight of the flash light.
Thank you Akpe, yes I did mention that some monoblocs can be controlled from wifi apps and the triggers however I personally often find this fiddly (lost wifi, not knowing which light etc) and prefer the convenience of having the controls to 3 lights on one pack at ground level. Of course the desktop apps and mobile apps have gotten much better and it is probably as convenient but there is still something I like about having it at your fingertips. The outright main reason for most pros opting for packs would be the other features I mentioned and the extra power.
@@VisualEducationStudio Totally understand dude 👍🏿
Karl you are the best ! Period !
Very kind thanks
Good quality studio equipment. How much long did you invest in all the items?I am in Kenya and have literally never seen the broncolor scoro 3200.
Is there a way to use a Generator Inverter for 2 Bowens Gemini strobe Lights 500w?
Is it safe? Of course the generator could work for many more things but was thinking if it's a considerable option for location shooting? In case of taking them or just stick with the speedlites?
Would you say continuous light has an advantage over flash for film photography?
Or should I use my modeling lamp to find out the right placement of the flash head before taking the shot? Or is this kind of a vice versa scenario?
Hi Adrian no I don't think continuous light has any advantages over studio flash lighting for stills photography whether it is digital or film. At some point in the future when it's possible to achieve clean images at 64,000 iso and assuming you can work in a completely darkened studio that has no ambient light leaks as well as the continuous light being adjustable in 1/10th of an f-stop with a CRI of 100, then it may start to have some advantages.
@@VisualEducationStudio you can shoot at ISO 64000 already, the images will just not be very pleasing to look at 😉😂
thx.. you explain very well. Greetings from Turkiye
You are welcome!
terbaik Mr Taylor
is that 3000 j flashlight brighter than the sun ?? and how much lux it emits ?
It's all relative to how far away you are from the light and how long you look at it but if you fired 3000j at your eye (don't do this) from a meter or two away you won't be able to see much for quite a while, and that is just for about 1/1000th of a second. If you looked at the sun for 1/1000th of a second it wouldn't hurt as much. However you generally use studio lights with modifiers on and not often on full power. I'd have to measure the output of the sun on a clear sunny day and the flash from a couple of meters to give you the lux but I'm not going to do that, you can probably find the answer on the web.
Very good Karl.
You are a guru 👍👍
Very good information Mr. Karl.
Glad you liked it
Nice info Karl.
Glad it was helpful
Great video! I seriously want to clean the handle on that Scoro 3200 though!
You and me both!
Another great video Karl thank you
Thank you so much for your super video! I am not a professional photographer but built myself a small photo studio with everything you need as a professional, only all of it smaller and terribly improvised. I want to upgrade my whole system, since the triggering of the small battery driven flashes has been unreliable, slow and too week. Godox is probably the brand I should go for but I’m quite uncertain, what the system should look like. I have been using up to 3 flashes and want a system, that can freeze action, e.g. my model jumping in the air. But I also shoot groups of people/families. I reserved about 3 to 4000 Euros for that, now all I need, is a sensible combination of flashes, everything else is already available. What would you suggest? How much power do I need? My studio is 4X5 meters. I don’t earn money with my photographic work and don’t need to. It’s all just a lot of fun!
Excellent video there. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.🤘🏽
You help us more than you can imagine!
Cheers
Nice, I would talk about the difference between Broncolor flash as it relates to conventional flash units in power consumption
Awesome video Karl, I have learned so much off of your content!
Awesome, thank you.
I love it, thank you. Why you switch to Broncolor from Elinchrom set? What is your consideration?
Hi, I wanted a better choice of lighting modifiers (such as the Para's) and faster flash duration for high speed work
Thanks Karl, for the masterpiece of information and clarification on how studio lights works. Just want to know if it advisable to flash the studio strobe while modelling light is on or does it have a negative effect on the output.
Hi it doesn't make any difference.
Thank you very much Karl! Would love to shadow you on a job, but I know that won’t happen. Thanks again, your studio is amazing!
Crystal clear, thanks Karl!
Glad it was helpful
great content ! thanks for sharing Master! 🙌🏻📸 Very happy to be part of your curse; a lot of things to learn and understand.
My pleasure!
Although I understand flash has the ability to freeze movement compared to led, is there any actual application for led in photography?
Also, what do we get with broncolor or prophoto lights compared to let’s say much cheaper alternatives like godox?
In the monitor world, yes you can get a very good benq but eizo will still give you much better uniformity.
Hi Maxime, some people just understand continuous light more easily, in a sort of 'what you see is what you get' manner but as explained it's not as versatile for many reasons, especially when photographing people/fashion. In relation to your other question on lighting brands, light is light out of a flash tube but it's how long it lasts, how consistent the exposures are, for example every shot with my bron light is going to be exactly the same exposure which means layering images is easy. Durability of the brand is important to pros as the equipment gets a beating. And most importantly for me is what are the choice of modifiers available to me.
Love this one. Awesome.
Glad you like it!
Hi Karl, could you perhaps direct me to an overview of (T.1) flash durations for specific power settings? I am running into the limits of my 800L's with dance photography and would like to compare with several power packs (move and scoro) to see which one would suit me best. I haven't been able to find the information so far.
Hi Filbert, I'm surprised you're running to the limits on your 800L you'd have to compare the duration specs to the 800S on brons website then against the Scoro. The Scoro gives you a bit fast duration and a bit more power but as with all of their fast flash durations you have to drop the power of the units down to 5.5 or below to get the really fast speeds.
@@VisualEducationStudio I was shooting a group of dancers with a narrow grid + gel, which ate quite a few stops so I needed full power on the 800L. I'll try to find the Scoro specs again. Maybe a flooter on the 800L would do the trick as well. Thanks for your reply!
@@VisualEducationStudio I did some more research. Turns out I should have used the HS mode at power setting 9 (not 10), then bumped the iso one stop. Would have given me a t.1 of around 1/800 of a second, which would have done the trick. Live and learn. I'll still check out what extra the packs deliver though, as a bit of extra depth of field is always welcome.
Great explanations well done. Can I ask you something? Have you heard of the "Justin Clamp"? If yes how do you rate something like that? I'm just curious.
Hi I'm afraid I haven't
@@VisualEducationStudio Never thought you haven't, this clamp is for photographers. I've made a video how to make one, watch it if you are interested. Keep safe
I just looked it up, we call those T clamps because of their shape. We have about 10 of those and Kupo clamps and many other types all useful for holding background boards, props and attaching to C-stands grips.
great information. thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
What's this Joule thing ? You're the first photographer I've heard to use Joules instead of Wats.
Absolutely amazing Sir
Something to always learn
Glad to hear that
Sir I had a question how did you grow your channel and what were the tricks you applied I am stuck in a certain subscribers
Superb!!!
Thanks
Is this same F Stops for Elinchrome Lights ?
It should be
Hi sir why your modeling lamp is white? Mine is orange? Can change with other bulb?
The video guy corrects his white balance or you were seeing the LED light I was talking about which is not a modelling lamp.
@@VisualEducationStudio omg my mistake I see your continous light is strobe because I m newbie and still learn photography. Thanks for your explain sir very nice channel 👍👍 Im already subs 😁 cheers
again thank you ! subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
I wish you have a video tutorial about that black orchid tom ford perfume bottle karl
Another great advantage is that u don't need a flash trigger, which is visually brand specific.
Very concise. thanks
You're welcome!
very helpful
thanks master! best regards form Perú
Welcome!
Thanks Karl, much appreciated mate.
Very welcome
Thank you for the excellent explanation, I am your subscriber from now onwards.
Thanks and welcome
Brilliant, thanks Karl... I didn't fully appreciate the benefits of the pack option, I have now 'seen the light' (sorry).
Ha Ha good one.
Thank you!
Welcome
5:20 Joules is not a unit of power, it is a unit of energy. The unit for power is the Watt.
Yes one joule is equivalent to one Watt Second but in Europe studio lighting is described and sold in Joules (energy) so it's pretty clear to talk about it in this way.
Hello Karlingtons!
Grrr! Don't know what to do for my next step. Need some advice or guidance
I currently own a Lumix G85
Which so far, I have enjoyed using
I am now at a breaking point and need to change my setup. I don't know what to do.
I have spent a bit on the lenses and am in the Lumix eco system but for my needs this specific model just ain't working for me
These are things I now know that I need
1. Tethered cable is a must (my g85 doesn't support it)
2. I need my next camera to be ideal for stock photography
3. To provide higher ISOs and a wider range of manual controls
Anyone have any ideas what I can do
It takes me months to research this stuff
I am also going to be stuck with a bunch of gear if I change the system or brand
Thanks in advance
Hi, it sounds like you've already made up your mind and you are going to need to sell your current stuff. If I was buying 35mm again then I'd probably go Sony and their 90mm Macro lens which is excellent. If I wanted to go Medium Format on a budget then I'd X1Dii (others will argue Fuji, but I need higher sync speeds for my fashion work). I think the new Canon Mirrorless also look interesting, I've got older 5dmk3s still working fine but I use the H6 for 99% of my work.
Big Boss, thanks for uploading.
My pleasure
thanks for the video
You're welcome
You like to be correct Karl. Joule is a unit of energy not power but I guess people understand your message better when you use the other term...
Thank you sir
Welcome
Clearly not at the moment, but are you still planning to run your workshops on the island when we get out of this mess?
I hope so but who knows when. We've scheduled this years workshop with Tim Flach for next year now and due to some of the cancellations because of covid their should be some spaces for that. It's in March 2021.
@@VisualEducationStudio Cool - thanks Karl. Would like to learn more about studio work, will keep an eye on your website...
Thanks for the education!
Our pleasure
nice one
Thanks
Hi Karl , I was wondering if you have experience on location with the Broncolor Siros 800L. I love mine and I use mine on a Fujifilm XH1 with a Broncolor RFS2.2F I set the unit up for RF and set My channel works Flawlessly ,BUT the flash starts firing by Itself even If I shut the camera and Trigger off. Thought maybe there was interference from My Phone or Phones everybody shut their Phones off. Still firing By itself. We were on location out in the woods Miles from any towers or city. Have you ever experienced this?
Hi no I've not experienced that. As with anything like this it would be best to speak to your bron dealer or video it when it happens and speak to broncolor.
good video & very well explained.. that Broncolor Scoro S is a really nice piece of kit.. makes my Godox sk300ii's look pitiful...haha.. although I could buy 120 of my strobes for the price of your power pack.. it depends where you are at & I know you've been a pro for years & ive been doing it 3.. all I can do is aspire to be at your level one day & hope I am..
Thank you and best of luck with your work.
Actualy, 800J/256 ( 2 to the power of 8 is 256 ) gives you about 3.125J of light on the Siros 800, wich is smaller than the 3.3J of the Unilite
What I try to say is that power 0.5 on the Unilite and power 2 on the Siros 800 is the same, it's only upward that the difference exists, that's kind of missleading because while Unilite 3200 power 10 means 2 stops brighter Siros 800 power 10 but their lowest point are the same, but described as 2 different power values...
And then they say studio strobe don't have to be complicated 🤷🏻♂️
Yes that's the maths but I find at the very lowest powers the joules can be a bit iffy in their supposed values and actual output. The Scoro shows you the Joules which is nice. It's obviously got 2 stops up above the Siros if only using one lamp in the pack (which is not very often).
Hasselblad Can now capture motion pictures! Halleluja
Thank u so much sir love from India u share such a incredible knowledge to every photographer I was saw u r last video Honestly business advice on tough time. that's really spark me about of commercial photography on to a business it's really help me to generate a big revenue through your business bullets point.
I want to purchase u r course Bt there is some trouble I have only debit card but u r payment method process through credit card and PayPal money transfer.I tried through Bt PayPal web site not transfering money due to covid-19 . there's the main issue I m eagarly waiting for u r purchasing u r course there any other solution to purchasing u r course.
Thank you for your interest. Our site takes debit card too.
I cant thank you enough!!
Cheers
Any modern strobe can be controlled from the trigger, no need for apps 🤷🏻♂️
Yea, but mine goes up to 11.