I am always mesmerized how Karl keeps the articulation and pronaunciation so clear, crisp and focused in these videos. I guess these are script written and read from "teleprompter" and Karl is not talking like this on his everyday errands (if he does, I'll be further amazed). A true professionalism right there for video education material. It is such a separation to those not so professional training videos around that just have a lot of nonsense and inaudible pronaunciation etc.
I used to produce records for a living and everytime I invested in a new piece of equipment it inspired me to create something new, which in turn came out well (because it originated from a moment of true inspiration), and then in turn was worth something (because it was genuine), and correspondingly became the direct source of income. Although I ended up with a studio full of expensive equipment that was rarely used, mainly because there was so much of it, I couldn't point to a piece of equipment and say that that hadn't been worth the investment, even if rarely used. I think equipment seen as a tool for a professional is always worth the investment, and completely agree with the implied notion to buy the best you can afford in smaller quantities rather than more of something potentially inferior in quality.
Im picking up a set of photography lights for 50 used so that will have to do for me until i can learn the system and wait till i can afford a better option. Sometimes its not what you like or want but what you can afford. And for me paid for is best option. Thanks for the information
I’m definitely in the amateur category as a photographer. But, I have to say since I’ve started experimenting with flash it has been the most return on investment vs. nicer lenses. Of course, I’m measuring ROI in terms of fun and not dollars.
some great points made here & the importance of lighting & budgeting for this . I recently opened a studio & as I already was in the Godox system for my location work , we went with Godox studio moonlights & Constant Led's all Bowens mount , all work of the same triggers system & as I found recently on a location shoot where I had AC power I could mix & match my battery powered strobes with my studio strobes & they all work together very well. A lot of my customers who hire the studio or come to shoot at Model events are also Godox users so that works great. & the price of my studio strobes are £83.60 (on eBay today) So if anything goes wrong with one , it can be replaced at a very low cost . the whole lighting set up for my studio was a lot less than a thousand pounds including modifiers & stands/c-stands & thats great especially as the studio has been sat empty half the year due to Covid 19.
As a hobbyist I was blown away by my Godox V1 with akr1 modifier kit. For many years I was gun shy to do flash photography with the dreadful results I got in the film era. Now in digital it’s great to shoot and adjust the settings.
To me Light is much more important. I have a D500 and just three lenses, the Nikon 14-24, f/2.8, Nikon 50mm f/1.8 and the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8. But I have about twenty lights. I have 12 Paul C. Buff photographic strobe lights and sppedlights. I wanted a Parabolic modifier, but the Broncolor was just too much money and the Parabolix only had sixteen petals. Then I thought about Mola Light reflectors, but at less than a sixteenth of an inch in thickness I knew it would not be tough enough. So I invested in Fostopop Fresnels. Then if you take a look at Buff’s line of hard modifiers, it is astonishing at how cheap they are, but they’re good. If you live in America or Europe, I would suggest looking at Buff, the Einstein is outstanding.
Thank you for the thorough, well constructed and supremely organized review of your thoughts. A perfect mix of storyboard, concepts, demonstrations and results.
One of the best adivse i have watched on lighting systems who want to build step by step. Times have changed and options to consider a brand for studio lighting as well. I was in my initial steps now to build a home studio in coming days. This video has so many valid points to keep in mind. Im a Godox user and i still consider to upgrade in the same direction rather switching btween to other brands. It all about the financial decisions on which the kind of work you are actually doing. End of the day Both photography and lighting techniques and your editing skills play a crutical role to produce a quality image. no one asks which lighting brand you are using but they look for the outcome and quality. Like karl said the options are now open between brands ... its should be a wise choice :) thanks Karl
I appreciate the subtle business component to the education. My favorite question is ...do i value high quality camera / lenses over lighting...Thats my hang up. I will look at this one further. Great stuff
This is really great information. I recently transitioned from a combo monoblock/speedlight setup comprised of two different brands to just a single brand that does what I need, and found myself asking the same questions you presented (even though, at the time I didn't realize that I was asking those questions). I primarily shoot portraits in a studio, but also do a fair amount of on location business portraiture as well. I've not completely built out the on location kit (no need to just yet with COVID, almost nobody goes into offices where I'm located), but for in-studio stuff, it's all in place and just so much better and faster than my old system. Having integrated triggers and control as well as just one modifier mount standard is something you don't realize how nice it is until you actually experience it and can just get on with getting the shots instead of futzing around with the gear. It's totally simplified my modifier collection, and everything runs off the one trigger system, and the trigger system gives me all the control I want, right from the camera. What a difference.
Can't believe I haven't found your channel before, it's exactly what I've been looking for! Like and subscribed, and high likeliness to hit the bell too :D. Coming from a macro/ultra-macro background 0.4:1 for wide angle macro and up to 5:1 close-ups, I can safely say that the light you're using is sooooo important. It's astonishing how many people aren't willing to pay more than 100$ for a light to use with a 3000$ body lens combo. It's ridiculous, you can take an old body with some cheap vintage prime and take some photographs that most people would assume are done in a pro studio just if you know how to use the proper quality and quantity of light.
Your reasoning was why I went to Elinchrom. More options for outside work. ElB 400, 500, 1200. With both Action and HS heads. Best modifiers for light quality in the business except no great para's. I love the light out of the Broncolor Para's. Broncolor was limited on outside flash options. I loved Broncolor for the Para's and the Move L battery pack. But I don't like the Monoblock heads with all the weight up high and the ability to put them in a Para is a lil sketchy. But their studio packs are awesome. And then, Elinchrom had multiple problems with transmitters synching. And they aren't easy to get to synch or even read which light is which on the Skyport transmitter. Profoto was out as no option for HS. And I started getting Godox flashes also because they were 1/3rd the price. Monoblocks for inside work are great. They easily synch together and i've never had issues with them getting lost. The battery pack options are endless. And even a few of the modifiers make travel photography insanely easy and packable with the new Ad400 and Ad300 having the Godox mount that is tiny. So now, to be honest. All I really want is Godox to come out with some better Para's, a few huge Studio packs and great heads to use with them. And I'd be happy. I love a lot about Broncolor, but with the battery options being limited they aren't an option. I want all my lighting to work together. From on camera flash to off camera battery flash to Studio flash. And right now, Godox is winning. They just don't have the modifiers or the big studio packs. And I really want a HS option on outside flashes.
Yes I had some good experiences with Elinchrom but I disagree with you on the battery options for bron as the Move pack is superb, fast flash duration, tough, rain proof and up to 1200J and as you said their Siros battery lights are a bit heavy for the Paras but the Move pack small Mobi lights weigh nothing so are perfect in the Paras?
@@VisualEducationStudio I agree the Move Pack is awesome. My problems with Broncolor for this is that is all they have. 1 style pack. Where Elinchrom has 3 different power and style packs. And Godox has every style you could ever desire but no HS option. That was my problems with Broncolor. Limited use outside. And now you can set up a full studio lighting setup outside with options from Godox. Elinchrom still has issues with connectivity that makes it not trustworthy for pro shoots which just pisses me off. And with a Broncolor you only have the Move L and Siros. Nothing smaller for impact lighting. Want to toss a tiny bit of light up in a tree? You have to have another Move L or Head or a Siros. When you only need 200 watts. Even Profoto came out with a speedlight that connects now and smaller packs. But Profoto is still limited compared to Godox and neither has a HS option which I love using over HSS because of the greater power output to knock out the sun. And the original Godox weren't very durable. But the new Pro versions all have great color and are durable. The reason I bought into the Elinchrom was durability and sealing. If you take one apart, they ain't that well sealed and not that durable of a build. I moved into Elinchrom to go full pro with my gear. I went back to Godox because the pro gear was having issues and missing shots. Which was exactly what I spent the extra money to stop. LOL I do like Broncolor and they're on the leading edge for studio lighting. But now that we can move to multi flash studios outside because of battery technology. They're getting behind because they only have 2 options. They need more options. To me. Elinchrom has kind of just quit. They need help on durability of their modifiers because they do delam after a few years. I have Larson that are 20 years old and still in great shape. And I love the light I get out of the Elinchrom modifiers better then any other modifiers. But for Para's it's all Broncolor. I've tried about 15 and none match Broncolor yet. And Elinchroms transmitter issues of disconnecting are something a pro doesn't want to deal with. Thank god Broncolor went with Godox to help build their transmitter. I haven't seen the issues with it. Now tell Broncolor to release a battery Speedlight, A 200 watt pack, A 400 watt pack, and update the Move 1200 L. To go leading edge bring out a battery 2400 watt pack. And keep the HS. Because I'm betting Godox's near future will include a 2400 watt battery option.
True that on lenses and bodies. After all the years purchasing bodies and lenses (even up to a complete Phase One XF kit and BR lens set) my favorite studio camera remains my Mamiya RZ67 Pro-IID with an IQ3-100 digital back and the M 75mm SB tilt/shift lens. The XF kit stays mostly on the shelf, as the old RZ67 beats it in the studio and other options are more convenient (i.e. lighter/faster) or film-based for personal work.
Sound advice there, Karl. I went through similar considerations when I was preparing to switch careers and go pro. Especially your tip to decide which images you want to make in 5 years' time is very good! I decided good location lighting was more important than anything else to attract the clients I want, and chose my lighting kit accordingly. I started with two Siros 800L lights, and added some second hand (mains powered) Bron monolights when I noticed I needed more lights. Recently, I noticed I could do with shorter flash durations at higher power output than my Siros L's can provide, so a power pack is the next thing I'm considering. Which one is a tough nut to crack but I'll take my time. I'll make sure to check out your video on the subject!
Great video, Karl. I am continuing my journey to understand lighting in my photography with your many, many tutorials on KTE. It can be very frustrating to work out, but really rewarding when things start to click and I get what I am looking for. Your education is top notch and helps out immensely.
Wow, great info - well above my pay grade. The most I've ever considered shelling out for is the Rotolight AEOS 2 travel pack. But yes, modifiers are of massive importance.
After close to 2 years of using 2 Nissin speedlights, a softbox and an Umbrella, I have decided to buy lighting for my studio and the fact that you mentioned Godox in this video left me feeling confident of my choice. This video is going to help me make the right decisions. Thank you, you’re my inspiration!
Hello Karl i am asking you this as you have so much experience in this area. How often do you find your self changing the bulbs? My lights are starting to get yellow with age and i want to know if this is normal. Thank you.
@@VisualEducationStudio do you mind me asking is it because there's not enough types of modifiers from Profoto or is it because profoto uses proprietary modifiers?
Thier range of modifiers isn't as broad as Broncolor's and it is the modifiers that have the most affect on how way to describe light in an emotional context.
I'm thinking in Godox....I have no money for something with better reputation and I think is the best option for me at the moment. I'll try to do fashion and product in 5 years. What you guys think??.
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 இரா.மனோகர் சென்னை . Very useful video sir, I learned lot from it, looking forward more videos like this keep it up good work, thanks a lot sir big thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 R.MANOHAR Chennai.
Thanks as always for a thorough overview. Pragmatic question: Suppose that I've followed your advice and identified what kinds of photography I want to be doing in five years, and have determined what lighting system will be best for that. But, because I'm not CURRENTLY doing all those kinds of photography, I can't afford to buy fully into that system yet. (Let's assume debt isn't an option.) Do you feel it would be better to buy a limited subset of my "goal" system that limits me to a narrower range of work, or to start out with a "compromise" system that will have to be replaced eventually but lets me do a wider range of work now? I can work out the ROI implications, I'm more interested in your thoughts on how this choice would affect a photographer's career progress.
Hi JL, that's a tricky one, the only thing I can add is that it's also perfectly possible to mix brands a little for certain jobs, I've simultaneously used elinchrom and bron on the same shoot (and speedlites).
Irvin Penn, Horst, Demarchelier, Leibovitz, all shot with 8x10, medium format film/digital, and 35mm systems using hot lights, and flash. I've also seen digital, and film art blended with acrylic, or oil paint on canvas to create interesting lighting effects. New digital shooters should experiment with 8x10, and medium format camera systems in spite of what people complain about dust management in post processing, digital or darkroom. New shooters should really slow down from the marketing effects of using high end digital cameras, and start with painting to develop the lighting in your mind.
Great video Karl, thanks for sharing your thoughts and believes, love the way you explain things at the basics instead of reading out specs and compare. 16:16 running away from the Hasselblad on a tripod to avoid a wave, it would rather hang on to it and drown hehehehehe Way way way in the past I helped a friend with upgrading the IT equipment of one of his fathers successful companies. We figured out we had to buy some new stuff to add and replace some older, unreliable equipment, so he had to ask his father for money. His father was totally not interested in the details, the only thing he asked: How much does it cost, and what does it yield ! (and yield can be money, reliability, increase of quality, ease of work or whatever) I used that sentence through my whole carrier and always got the funding for my big IT projects.
Hi Karl, you do get what you pay for. But for me a pro friend used Elinchrom in his studio and got some stunning results. So that is where I started to, Then after a number of year I was watching one of your videos I think Profoto vs Broncolor video and it tuck me back to the first studio I worked with Broncolor 606's and 302's how good they where (but the cost) and specking with Chris Burfoot at the time out of me reach. Than I think I saw another one of you videos intruding the Siros system just a perfect light for me and my needs. I now have both 800s's and 800l's and just love them so thank you.
Thank you Karl for such a very informative video on types of lighting and from array of different manufacturers, I have built up a selection from Godox over the past few years and at this present time have been happy with their performance, I think that broncolor is the best but out of my price reach for the moment. I also totally agree with and have for many years have said that Led lights are not the lights to use for models because they are to uncomfortable to be blasted in their eyes for any length of time.,so happy for a professional photographer to agree with me. I have taken a lot of sound advice from your tutorials and are looking forward to listening to more.
I originally started with Orlit brand lights which are the American version of Jinbei Chinese lights, I recently switched to the Elinchrom ELB 500 and the build quality and the light quality is so much better.
Last year, I was in this dilema and as I didn't have anything but a couple of canon speedlights and cheap godox umbrella softboxes, I wanted something more reliable. I ended up buying a couple of Aputure 120D II, to grow on the Bowens mount modifiers' system as I was planning on doing video work as well. Thankfully, until today, and probably due the CoVID-19, 70% of the work I am getting now is video production, so I can still use my speedlights with the Aputure softboxes for portraits (but still hate when triggers fail) and the LED lights for video and product photography. I think, as you say, this will serve me for the next 5+ years and hopefully my next move I will be to some Broncolor or Profoto when I totally master what I currently have and I feel I am pushing my limits. Great advice! -as always- Karl.
The big difference between the premium brands and the "cheaper" ones aren´t only the "special" light modifiers...the used electronic components in the flash units/packs will give you a visible price difference on the bill, if you want to buy them. That`s, why the premium brands are "premium". But not everyone can afford that premium prices from that fancy stuff from the premium brands. Broncolor and Profoto have their "special" light modifiers, but there are similar "poor man" light modifiers for other brands too. The Tera softboxes - 190cm + 250cm diameter - and the deep parabolic Tera-D softboxes - 90cm, 120cm, 150cm + 190cm diameter - from "aurora lite bank" as an example (Elinchrom, Westscott and Hensel use the Tera-D´s with their brand names), which simulates the Broncolor Para´s/Profoto´s Giant Reflector`s to a certain degree. Photographers with Bowens S-type mount flash units (like GODOX, Bresser, Jinbei, etc.) can pick from a very big selection of light modifiers - like reflectors and softboxes - which will do a similar job like that ones from the premium grade brands. Some "special" light modifiers will probably not work similar "comfortable" like from the premium grade brands, but they will give you nearly similar results in your photos. There are also adapter rings from Elinchrom to Bowens S-mount, so user with with Bowens S-type mount flash units would even be able to use "special" light modifiers from Elinchrom, like the Elinchrom 30cm Fresnel Spot FS30, which will work similar like the Broncolor "Flooter" Fresnel Spot, or the Profoto 30cm ProFresnel Spot. (Or you was lucky enough, to get some special light modifier from Bowens, before Bowens was gone) But anything else, like "regular" light modifiers like softboxes, aren´t really a reason, to switch to Broncolor or Profoto...except you want to impress your clients in your studio...or on location. On the end, only the finished product will count. No amateur/client will be able to tell you, which brand of lighting systems you did use to make your photos.
To a point. I have Broncolor and when I was a GFX user I had the RFS Hs controller - identical to Godox!!!! The build quality of that particular device from Bron is appalling - just not Bron's finest!! I now use Hass H6100 and so the better quality RFS 2.2 suffices especially with 4 1200L's on location.
Sir, likewise would you prefer sharing your thoughts about the computers for photographers? Along with your experience on computers these days maybe for your projects?
Probably the one in back fanning out and more widely lighting a larger area evenly and then the one in front exposing the model even brighter to draw attention to her.
Thank you for commenting... Found this in the RUclips archives. It includes some of this shoot :-) ruclips.net/video/13xZNZgIzhE/видео.html (part of our Icelandic Fashion Photography bit.ly/fashionscape)
I recommend taking a look at joining our membership Rajat. I'm unable to help in detail on RUclips comments. You'll find this workshop helps: www.karltayloreducation.com/class/live-workshop-polarising-studio-light-and-why/
I just purchased a used soft box for a new talking head RUclips channel! Would a 60 watts 800 lumens daylight led bulb be adequate in your opinion? Thanks for your time!
I have ended up moving to broncolor, but mostly for their older modifiers like the cumulite and hazy for the sort of work I do. Very impressive builds compared to most other brands.
great vid Karl, like your set layout for the vid, just one thing, the top of your laptop lid and the bottom of the broncolor stand are out of kilter :P. Light and imagination are more important than camera and lens, yes you need to have a decent camera but its a lot easier to change a body later than a whole lighting set. same with lenses but a good lens is more important than a body. As an amateur or hobby shooter its a bit harder to test out the mid range lighting as its more likely you will find high end stuff for hire.
OMG exactly what I was looking for I have a novatron is just not real portable and is loud because I shoot dogs it is not the best to work with. Thank you!!
Profoto has offered improvements to its modifier and strobe lines more often than most manufacturers, which is why you can find older versions on eBay. The fact that nearly 95% of rental houses and photography studios stock Profoto should tell you a lot. Just use what works for you.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and Profoto insight. Like you say, it very much personal preference based on situation and requirements. I found this video from the archives (7 years!) ruclips.net/video/F4FT8wGgDl4/видео.html
Perhaps anybody reding here has partial or hol feedback to my preocupation here : In matters of HS by Broncolor Siros 800L vs HSS by Elinchrom's ELC HD Pro 500 ... Ai-Copilote tells me over and over again that HD is less reliable in matters of even illumination and freezing movement. The latter I mind less, meaning that If I choose up to 1/8000" of my camera, this I can live/adapt with. However "consistancy" of illumination over the frame and/or across 2 and more shots is trubling. HSS will considerably retrograde maximum output power etc, that indeed I can grasp also, vs a long exposer of the HS aproach. My préoccupation is, should I part from my new (second hand) ELC or keep them over my also newly aquired (2nd hand) SirosL, or really keep them for their stroboscopic ability... (and meanwile use them as slaves (triggered by the Siros' firing) ? And, can anyone confirm that on-camera(Sony) triggers exist that can make HS.- and HSS-flash sucessfully trigger "togetger" ? 😊 Thank in advance !
Godox pro and even some of there beginner lights are super durable have never had a single light break on me in the last 6 years and i’m a wrecking ball! lol I really hope I can move to broncolor some day tho. It was always my choice based on the modifiers and the capabilities of the lights.
I was forced to make a similar choice 2 and a half years ago. As 100% of my work is location work I went with Profoto's battery-powered monolights. So far it's made an enormous difference. As for funding, I took a huge chunk out of my IRA. At the time it seemed like a good plan. I wasn't going to go in dept plus there would be no retirement of I started losing work because of inadequate light. Then, about 2 years later, the "plague" came to town. I didn't need to pay a monthly bill because it was all paid for but at the same time that cash could have come in handy. I'm just now starting to get back to work. Even so, I'm certainly not running full steam ahead yet. Oh well, perhaps things will be back to normal a year from now. We'll have to wait and see. Thanks for the video and have a great day.
You're a great professional guy without any of the sleaze or shilling attached to your business model that I see on other channels. Assuming you make another video that's not just broncolor related, I'd be interested to see what angle you take when comparing recent products made by Godox and Profoto. Broncolor and Profoto charge extortionate prices for accessories. Battery packs, housing 18650 lithium batteries and mostly air, with a small circuit board, are extortionately priced. Barn doors, costing $20 to make are much the same. These overpriced accessories often underperforming chinese equivalents (fotodiox zoom reflectors are FAR more color neutral than profoto) make me wonder if the accessories are a scam, are the lights too? I literally wonder if the broncolor move costs $100 to make and is being sold for thousands. Why wouldn't I? The accessories are a scam. Why won't the lights be too? The godox v1 is more color stable than the profoto a1 (or is that a1x? a10? sorry, they're so reliable they had to release three units of the same flash in so many years!) and it has a much nicer light fall off. The godox ad400 pro is barebulb (fills a para better), more color stable than profoto and lighter than broncolor (plus it has an extendable head). Profoto at this point is highly gimmicky but if you don't need barebulb, it's truly great for SOME photographers e.g. weddings. Godox is great for shooting rooms where you'll want colour stable speedlights and strobes. But it's not perfect. They shoot incredibly blue and if you gel it, you're losing power which means you buy something bigger and more expensive (getting you closer to broncolor prices). The speedlights shoot at a much colder temperature to their other lights. It's annoying. I'd still argue the godox v1 is better than the profoto regardless of cost. For accessories, it's annoying having three separate mounting systems (godox). Profoto modifier system is fast and easy for wedding photographers but it's unstable for some types of photography. I think broncolor nails this. The move 1200 L is big and heavy, and annoying for certain types of photography. The siros are more in budget for many, but again really, really heavy. In my next comment (running out of space), I'll specify how broncolor would make me a customer.
Broncolor are color accurate, speedy, reliable and accessories are vast. If the accessories are too expensive, I can just buy a third party accessory, so realistically I can make this system work. If they could make a color stable daylight balanced speedlight (these things are great for shooting rooms!) and a broncolor move 400L or 600L (basically a mini broncolor move 1200L), I would invest in their system tomorrow. I don't need TTL. HSS I can live without (it's nice though). Being able to quickly gel modifiers is useful for shooting rooms, and honestly the broncolor move, an 8 year old flash, is too expensive in todays world. You can't change color temp like a scoro or led temp like a profoto b10. I would like to get away from godox, budget isn't really the concern here. I really, really want to see broncolor make something like a more powerful profoto b2, with barebulb heads. And preferably reasonably priced. It would encourage people like me to buy into the system. From there I'd be okay buying the siros lights but the siros lights on their own are far too heavy. Alternatively, I could make a godox v1 and broncolor system work if triggers permitted. For me, it's not about budget so much, none of the companies are offering quite what I want. Broncolor does seem to be the best, but one or two lightweight flash units shy of me investing. I would pay twice the price for a godox v1 (I noticed the transmitter is made by godox) that shoots the same color temperature as broncolor, and then have a mini move. In short, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make a mini broncolor move 1200 L. That's the most important thing for me, and that alone would make me invest (plus I'd buy siros lights). A speedlight after that would be useful but I really need a 400-600watt flash that isn't the size of a small country.
David, if you're fast, we have a special deal until end of October. Have a look: broncolor.swiss/news/promotion-trade-in-your-old-powerpack-for-a-scoro
I don’t watch all of your videos mainly as I don’t photograph people, horrible creatures best left to their own devices... Many, especially lighting, do actually fit wildlife and macro photography which is my joy. Even the portrait lighting videos help as I gives ideas how to light wildlife in the field, especially macro.
Respect to Broncolor for putting so much into flash duration and colour consistency across the range. I hardly ever do studio work and it’s not a priority, but prefer my ugly Elinchrom Style heads over the newer models (I prefer real buttons and sliders). Interestingly, I’ve used Profoto twice and twice they’ve failed on me.
Shout-out to (any) NORMAN users; been using the same since....late 1980's. Portable, 400B (equiv 8 speedlights) and my studio mama, P2000D pack. Dudes, all I can say is that I've changed batteries a couple of times on the 400, and replaced a blown capacitor on my pack.....and they just keep tickin'. And I saved a $hit-load!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I am always mesmerized how Karl keeps the articulation and pronaunciation so clear, crisp and focused in these videos. I guess these are script written and read from "teleprompter" and Karl is not talking like this on his everyday errands (if he does, I'll be further amazed). A true professionalism right there for video education material. It is such a separation to those not so professional training videos around that just have a lot of nonsense and inaudible pronaunciation etc.
Thanks
I used to produce records for a living and everytime I invested in a new piece of equipment it inspired me to create something new, which in turn came out well (because it originated from a moment of true inspiration), and then in turn was worth something (because it was genuine), and correspondingly became the direct source of income. Although I ended up with a studio full of expensive equipment that was rarely used, mainly because there was so much of it, I couldn't point to a piece of equipment and say that that hadn't been worth the investment, even if rarely used. I think equipment seen as a tool for a professional is always worth the investment, and completely agree with the implied notion to buy the best you can afford in smaller quantities rather than more of something potentially inferior in quality.
I must say Goddox has really made lighting an affordable option for me. It gets me going until I can justify the upgrade.
Im picking up a set of photography lights for 50 used so that will have to do for me until i can learn the system and wait till i can afford a better option. Sometimes its not what you like or want but what you can afford. And for me paid for is best option. Thanks for the information
I’m definitely in the amateur category as a photographer. But, I have to say since I’ve started experimenting with flash it has been the most return on investment vs. nicer lenses. Of course, I’m measuring ROI in terms of fun and not dollars.
some great points made here & the importance of lighting & budgeting for this . I recently opened a studio & as I already was in the Godox system for my location work , we went with Godox studio moonlights & Constant Led's all Bowens mount , all work of the same triggers system & as I found recently on a location shoot where I had AC power I could mix & match my battery powered strobes with my studio strobes & they all work together very well. A lot of my customers who hire the studio or come to shoot at Model events are also Godox users so that works great. & the price of my studio strobes are £83.60 (on eBay today) So if anything goes wrong with one , it can be replaced at a very low cost . the whole lighting set up for my studio was a lot less than a thousand pounds including modifiers & stands/c-stands & thats great especially as the studio has been sat empty half the year due to Covid 19.
Thanks for the info and yes this covid thing sucks and is certainly changing the landscape at the moment.
As a hobbyist I was blown away by my Godox V1 with akr1 modifier kit. For many years I was gun shy to do flash photography with the dreadful results I got in the film era. Now in digital it’s great to shoot and adjust the settings.
Found some good second hand Broncolor deals! Sold my Elinchrom lamps! Super happy with the upgrade!!!
To me Light is much more important. I have a D500 and just three lenses, the Nikon 14-24, f/2.8, Nikon 50mm f/1.8 and the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8. But I have about twenty lights. I have 12 Paul C. Buff photographic strobe lights and sppedlights. I wanted a Parabolic modifier, but the Broncolor was just too much money and the Parabolix only had sixteen petals. Then I thought about Mola Light reflectors, but at less than a sixteenth of an inch in thickness I knew it would not be tough enough. So I invested in Fostopop Fresnels. Then if you take a look at Buff’s line of hard modifiers, it is astonishing at how cheap they are, but they’re good. If you live in America or Europe, I would suggest looking at Buff, the Einstein is outstanding.
Thank you for the thorough, well constructed and supremely organized review of your thoughts. A perfect mix of storyboard, concepts, demonstrations and results.
thanks much appreciated
One of the best adivse i have watched on lighting systems who want to build step by step. Times have changed and options to consider a brand for studio lighting as well. I was in my initial steps now to build a home studio in coming days. This video has so many valid points to keep in mind. Im a Godox user and i still consider to upgrade in the same direction rather switching btween to other brands. It all about the financial decisions on which the kind of work you are actually doing. End of the day Both photography and lighting techniques and your editing skills play a crutical role to produce a quality image. no one asks which lighting brand you are using but they look for the outcome and quality. Like karl said the options are now open between brands ... its should be a wise choice :) thanks Karl
Thanks for your feedback
Karl, this is excellent advice for beginning and seasoned in so many dimensions
I appreciate the subtle business component to the education. My favorite question is ...do i value high quality camera / lenses over lighting...Thats my hang up. I will look at this one further. Great stuff
This is really great information. I recently transitioned from a combo monoblock/speedlight setup comprised of two different brands to just a single brand that does what I need, and found myself asking the same questions you presented (even though, at the time I didn't realize that I was asking those questions). I primarily shoot portraits in a studio, but also do a fair amount of on location business portraiture as well. I've not completely built out the on location kit (no need to just yet with COVID, almost nobody goes into offices where I'm located), but for in-studio stuff, it's all in place and just so much better and faster than my old system. Having integrated triggers and control as well as just one modifier mount standard is something you don't realize how nice it is until you actually experience it and can just get on with getting the shots instead of futzing around with the gear. It's totally simplified my modifier collection, and everything runs off the one trigger system, and the trigger system gives me all the control I want, right from the camera. What a difference.
Thank you for sharing your experience Adrian - Much appreciated
Can't believe I haven't found your channel before, it's exactly what I've been looking for! Like and subscribed, and high likeliness to hit the bell too :D.
Coming from a macro/ultra-macro background 0.4:1 for wide angle macro and up to 5:1 close-ups, I can safely say that the light you're using is sooooo important. It's astonishing how many people aren't willing to pay more than 100$ for a light to use with a 3000$ body lens combo. It's ridiculous, you can take an old body with some cheap vintage prime and take some photographs that most people would assume are done in a pro studio just if you know how to use the proper quality and quantity of light.
Your reasoning was why I went to Elinchrom.
More options for outside work. ElB 400, 500, 1200. With both Action and HS heads. Best modifiers for light quality in the business except no great para's. I love the light out of the Broncolor Para's.
Broncolor was limited on outside flash options.
I loved Broncolor for the Para's and the Move L battery pack. But I don't like the Monoblock heads with all the weight up high and the ability to put them in a Para is a lil sketchy. But their studio packs are awesome.
And then, Elinchrom had multiple problems with transmitters synching. And they aren't easy to get to synch or even read which light is which on the Skyport transmitter.
Profoto was out as no option for HS.
And I started getting Godox flashes also because they were 1/3rd the price. Monoblocks for inside work are great. They easily synch together and i've never had issues with them getting lost. The battery pack options are endless. And even a few of the modifiers make travel photography insanely easy and packable with the new Ad400 and Ad300 having the Godox mount that is tiny.
So now, to be honest. All I really want is Godox to come out with some better Para's, a few huge Studio packs and great heads to use with them. And I'd be happy.
I love a lot about Broncolor, but with the battery options being limited they aren't an option. I want all my lighting to work together. From on camera flash to off camera battery flash to Studio flash. And right now, Godox is winning. They just don't have the modifiers or the big studio packs. And I really want a HS option on outside flashes.
Yes I had some good experiences with Elinchrom but I disagree with you on the battery options for bron as the Move pack is superb, fast flash duration, tough, rain proof and up to 1200J and as you said their Siros battery lights are a bit heavy for the Paras but the Move pack small Mobi lights weigh nothing so are perfect in the Paras?
@@VisualEducationStudio
I agree the Move Pack is awesome. My problems with Broncolor for this is that is all they have. 1 style pack. Where Elinchrom has 3 different power and style packs. And Godox has every style you could ever desire but no HS option. That was my problems with Broncolor. Limited use outside. And now you can set up a full studio lighting setup outside with options from Godox. Elinchrom still has issues with connectivity that makes it not trustworthy for pro shoots which just pisses me off. And with a Broncolor you only have the Move L and Siros. Nothing smaller for impact lighting. Want to toss a tiny bit of light up in a tree? You have to have another Move L or Head or a Siros. When you only need 200 watts. Even Profoto came out with a speedlight that connects now and smaller packs. But Profoto is still limited compared to Godox and neither has a HS option which I love using over HSS because of the greater power output to knock out the sun. And the original Godox weren't very durable. But the new Pro versions all have great color and are durable.
The reason I bought into the Elinchrom was durability and sealing. If you take one apart, they ain't that well sealed and not that durable of a build. I moved into Elinchrom to go full pro with my gear. I went back to Godox because the pro gear was having issues and missing shots. Which was exactly what I spent the extra money to stop. LOL
I do like Broncolor and they're on the leading edge for studio lighting. But now that we can move to multi flash studios outside because of battery technology. They're getting behind because they only have 2 options. They need more options.
To me. Elinchrom has kind of just quit. They need help on durability of their modifiers because they do delam after a few years. I have Larson that are 20 years old and still in great shape. And I love the light I get out of the Elinchrom modifiers better then any other modifiers. But for Para's it's all Broncolor. I've tried about 15 and none match Broncolor yet. And Elinchroms transmitter issues of disconnecting are something a pro doesn't want to deal with.
Thank god Broncolor went with Godox to help build their transmitter. I haven't seen the issues with it. Now tell Broncolor to release a battery Speedlight, A 200 watt pack, A 400 watt pack, and update the Move 1200 L. To go leading edge bring out a battery 2400 watt pack. And keep the HS. Because I'm betting Godox's near future will include a 2400 watt battery option.
True that on lenses and bodies. After all the years purchasing bodies and lenses (even up to a complete Phase One XF kit and BR lens set) my favorite studio camera remains my Mamiya RZ67 Pro-IID with an IQ3-100 digital back and the M 75mm SB tilt/shift lens. The XF kit stays mostly on the shelf, as the old RZ67 beats it in the studio and other options are more convenient (i.e. lighter/faster) or film-based for personal work.
Sound advice there, Karl. I went through similar considerations when I was preparing to switch careers and go pro. Especially your tip to decide which images you want to make in 5 years' time is very good! I decided good location lighting was more important than anything else to attract the clients I want, and chose my lighting kit accordingly. I started with two Siros 800L lights, and added some second hand (mains powered) Bron monolights when I noticed I needed more lights. Recently, I noticed I could do with shorter flash durations at higher power output than my Siros L's can provide, so a power pack is the next thing I'm considering. Which one is a tough nut to crack but I'll take my time. I'll make sure to check out your video on the subject!
If you need a fast pack on location then look at the Move's otherwise the Scoro.
Great video, Karl. I am continuing my journey to understand lighting in my photography with your many, many tutorials on KTE. It can be very frustrating to work out, but really rewarding when things start to click and I get what I am looking for. Your education is top notch and helps out immensely.
Great to hear! And thank you.
I will have to check your channel again for review and tips. Thanks.
Wow, great info - well above my pay grade. The most I've ever considered shelling out for is the Rotolight AEOS 2 travel pack. But yes, modifiers are of massive importance.
Thanks
After close to 2 years of using 2 Nissin speedlights, a softbox and an Umbrella, I have decided to buy lighting for my studio and the fact that you mentioned Godox in this video left me feeling confident of my choice. This video is going to help me make the right decisions. Thank you, you’re my inspiration!
Thank you Mohapi - glad to help :-)
Hello Karl i am asking you this as you have so much experience in this area. How often do you find your self changing the bulbs? My lights are starting to get yellow with age and i want to know if this is normal. Thank you.
I'd love to learn more about your decision process between profoto and broncolor
Mainly down to the choice of modifiers.
@@VisualEducationStudio do you mind me asking is it because there's not enough types of modifiers from Profoto or is it because profoto uses proprietary modifiers?
Thier range of modifiers isn't as broad as Broncolor's and it is the modifiers that have the most affect on how way to describe light in an emotional context.
@@VisualEducationStudiovery helpful, thank you
Thank you Karl for this, it just made that click in my head how to go further.
I'm thinking in Godox....I have no money for something with better reputation and I think is the best option for me at the moment.
I'll try to do fashion and product in 5 years.
What you guys think??.
Also thinking of Godox, moving from elinchrom
வீடியோ மிகவும் பயனுள்ளதாக இருந்தது மிக்க நன்றி 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
இரா.மனோகர் சென்னை .
Very useful video sir, I learned lot from it, looking forward more videos like this keep it up good work, thanks a lot sir
big thank you 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
R.MANOHAR
Chennai.
Side note
Just seeing you smile made me relaxed. You have such a serious face, it frightens me sometimes
Thanks as always for a thorough overview. Pragmatic question: Suppose that I've followed your advice and identified what kinds of photography I want to be doing in five years, and have determined what lighting system will be best for that. But, because I'm not CURRENTLY doing all those kinds of photography, I can't afford to buy fully into that system yet. (Let's assume debt isn't an option.) Do you feel it would be better to buy a limited subset of my "goal" system that limits me to a narrower range of work, or to start out with a "compromise" system that will have to be replaced eventually but lets me do a wider range of work now? I can work out the ROI implications, I'm more interested in your thoughts on how this choice would affect a photographer's career progress.
Hi JL, that's a tricky one, the only thing I can add is that it's also perfectly possible to mix brands a little for certain jobs, I've simultaneously used elinchrom and bron on the same shoot (and speedlites).
Irvin Penn, Horst, Demarchelier, Leibovitz, all shot with 8x10, medium format film/digital, and 35mm systems using hot lights, and flash. I've also seen digital, and film art blended with acrylic, or oil paint on canvas to create interesting lighting effects. New digital shooters should experiment with 8x10, and medium format camera systems in spite of what people complain about dust management in post processing, digital or darkroom. New shooters should really slow down from the marketing effects of using high end digital cameras, and start with painting to develop the lighting in your mind.
Great video Karl, thanks for sharing your thoughts and believes, love the way you explain things at the basics instead of reading out specs and compare.
16:16 running away from the Hasselblad on a tripod to avoid a wave, it would rather hang on to it and drown hehehehehe
Way way way in the past I helped a friend with upgrading the IT equipment of one of his fathers successful companies.
We figured out we had to buy some new stuff to add and replace some older, unreliable equipment, so he had to ask his father for money.
His father was totally not interested in the details, the only thing he asked: How much does it cost, and what does it yield ! (and yield can be money, reliability, increase of quality, ease of work or whatever)
I used that sentence through my whole carrier and always got the funding for my big IT projects.
That's good advice you heeded from your friends father.
Hi Karl, you do get what you pay for. But for me a pro friend used Elinchrom in his studio and got some stunning results. So that is where I started to, Then after a number of year I was watching one of your videos I think Profoto vs Broncolor video and it tuck me back to the first studio I worked with Broncolor 606's and 302's how good they where (but the cost) and specking with Chris Burfoot at the time out of me reach. Than I think I saw another one of you videos intruding the Siros system just a perfect light for me and my needs. I now have both 800s's and 800l's and just love them so thank you.
A pleasure John - thank you for watching and commenting.
what lights do you recommend for hemp and cannabis photography
Thank you Karl for such a very informative video on types of lighting and from array of different manufacturers, I have built up a selection from Godox over the past few years and at this present time have been happy with their performance, I think that broncolor is the best but out of my price reach for the moment. I also totally agree with and have for many years have said that Led lights are not the lights to use for models because they are to uncomfortable to be blasted in their eyes for any length of time.,so happy for a professional photographer to agree with me. I have taken a lot of sound advice from your tutorials and are looking forward to listening to more.
Thanks
brilliant info, clear, concise, thank you.
I originally started with Orlit brand lights which are the American version of Jinbei Chinese lights, I recently switched to the Elinchrom ELB 500 and the build quality and the light quality is so much better.
Could you make comparison between Profoto and Broncolor? Since I already have Profoto on my system. Thanks Sir!
Broncolor is known for color consistency.
Karl has already done a comparison video with the Broncolor and Profoto battery packs.
Cheers - much appreciated (ruclips.net/video/F4FT8wGgDl4/видео.html)
Last year, I was in this dilema and as I didn't have anything but a couple of canon speedlights and cheap godox umbrella softboxes, I wanted something more reliable. I ended up buying a couple of Aputure 120D II, to grow on the Bowens mount modifiers' system as I was planning on doing video work as well. Thankfully, until today, and probably due the CoVID-19, 70% of the work I am getting now is video production, so I can still use my speedlights with the Aputure softboxes for portraits (but still hate when triggers fail) and the LED lights for video and product photography. I think, as you say, this will serve me for the next 5+ years and hopefully my next move I will be to some Broncolor or Profoto when I totally master what I currently have and I feel I am pushing my limits. Great advice! -as always- Karl.
thank you Rodolfo. I can certainly relate to your trigger problems! Good luck with your work.
Good food for thought, thank you!
My pleasure!
The big difference between the premium brands and the "cheaper" ones aren´t only the "special" light modifiers...the used electronic components in the flash units/packs will give you a visible price difference on the bill, if you want to buy them. That`s, why the premium brands are "premium". But not everyone can afford that premium prices from that fancy stuff from the premium brands.
Broncolor and Profoto have their "special" light modifiers, but there are similar "poor man" light modifiers for other brands too. The Tera softboxes - 190cm + 250cm diameter - and the deep parabolic Tera-D softboxes - 90cm, 120cm, 150cm + 190cm diameter - from "aurora lite bank" as an example (Elinchrom, Westscott and Hensel use the Tera-D´s with their brand names), which simulates the Broncolor Para´s/Profoto´s Giant Reflector`s to a certain degree.
Photographers with Bowens S-type mount flash units (like GODOX, Bresser, Jinbei, etc.) can pick from a very big selection of light modifiers - like reflectors and softboxes - which will do a similar job like that ones from the premium grade brands. Some "special" light modifiers will probably not work similar "comfortable" like from the premium grade brands, but they will give you nearly similar results in your photos.
There are also adapter rings from Elinchrom to Bowens S-mount, so user with with Bowens S-type mount flash units would even be able to use "special" light modifiers from Elinchrom, like the Elinchrom 30cm Fresnel Spot FS30, which will work similar like the Broncolor "Flooter" Fresnel Spot, or the Profoto 30cm ProFresnel Spot. (Or you was lucky enough, to get some special light modifier from Bowens, before Bowens was gone)
But anything else, like "regular" light modifiers like softboxes, aren´t really a reason, to switch to Broncolor or Profoto...except you want to impress your clients in your studio...or on location. On the end, only the finished product will count. No amateur/client will be able to tell you, which brand of lighting systems you did use to make your photos.
To a point. I have Broncolor and when I was a GFX user I had the RFS Hs controller - identical to Godox!!!! The build quality of that particular device from Bron is appalling - just not Bron's finest!! I now use Hass H6100 and so the better quality RFS 2.2 suffices especially with 4 1200L's on location.
Karl is epic! Always pro info!
👍
Thanks Karl. Impressive presentation mate.
Very welcome
Sir, likewise would you prefer sharing your thoughts about the computers for photographers?
Along with your experience on computers these days maybe for your projects?
I use a macbook pro and a seperate monitor plugged into it.
At 14:36 what’s going on with those two lights - one behind the other??
Probably the one in back fanning out and more widely lighting a larger area evenly and then the one in front exposing the model even brighter to draw attention to her.
so her lower body is not going to be lit as bright as her upper? Assuming two lights are set to same output.
Thank you for commenting... Found this in the RUclips archives. It includes some of this shoot :-) ruclips.net/video/13xZNZgIzhE/видео.html (part of our Icelandic Fashion Photography bit.ly/fashionscape)
Thanks for making these educational and informative videos. God bless.
Our pleasure Onche!
Very helpful and thanks for sharing such a great journey
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you!
Yes, this was very helpful Thank you.
You're welcome Steven!
Amazing content. Thank you!
Great! Very professional, informative and fair!
Much appreciated!
Sir.
namste.
Photography of tiles and marble slab
If you want to, which light and how do you softbox.plz plz help....
I recommend taking a look at joining our membership Rajat. I'm unable to help in detail on RUclips comments. You'll find this workshop helps: www.karltayloreducation.com/class/live-workshop-polarising-studio-light-and-why/
Karl, you show a rolling camera stand in the background of your video. Do you have recommendation that dosent break the bank?
They do cost a lot Thad but they last for a long time. Mine's stood the test of time so haven't actually tried any other manufacturers.
Foba and Cambo stands are expensive. We use a second hand Fatif, an Italian made stand.
I just purchased a used soft box for a new talking head RUclips channel!
Would a 60 watts 800 lumens daylight led bulb be adequate in your opinion?
Thanks for your time!
Hi as a continuous light inside a softbox it doesn't sound strong enough
Karl Taylor thank you!
I have ended up moving to broncolor, but mostly for their older modifiers like the cumulite and hazy for the sort of work I do. Very impressive builds compared to most other brands.
I agree, they've got a fantastic build quality.
@@VisualEducationStudio I think my hazylight mk2 must be 15 years old at least and will more than likely outlive my use for it.
Good choice Tin :-) Thank you for beeing satisfied with our products
always useful as usual
Thanks Karl
:-)
Very grateful for all your videos.. the karl taylor education website is fantastic and i've been learning alot from you
Great to hear and thanks
concise. thanks
You're welcome
great vid Karl, like your set layout for the vid, just one thing, the top of your laptop lid and the bottom of the broncolor stand are out of kilter :P.
Light and imagination are more important than camera and lens, yes you need to have a decent camera but its a lot easier to change a body later than a whole lighting set.
same with lenses but a good lens is more important than a body.
As an amateur or hobby shooter its a bit harder to test out the mid range lighting as its more likely you will find high end stuff for hire.
Thanks for your feedback and info.
Great video.
cheers
OMG exactly what I was looking for I have a novatron is just not real portable and is loud because I shoot dogs it is not the best to work with. Thank you!!
Great tips! Thank you for this! 💯🙏🏽
Any time :-)
I tried both Profoto and Broncolor... and there's just no comparison. Broncolor is King.
Useful, as always:)
Glad it was helpful Saskia!
Thank u sir ....for free classes on website
Most welcome
Brilliant !!
cheers Benji
The fact i can always find used profoto on eBay but just about never any broncolor, tells me a lot.
Profoto has offered improvements to its modifier and strobe lines more often than most manufacturers, which is why you can find older versions on eBay.
The fact that nearly 95% of rental houses and photography studios stock Profoto should tell you a lot.
Just use what works for you.
Thanks for sharing your experiences and Profoto insight. Like you say, it very much personal preference based on situation and requirements. I found this video from the archives (7 years!) ruclips.net/video/F4FT8wGgDl4/видео.html
@@VisualEducationStudio I had already recommended that video to someone else in the comments when they asked for a comparison!
Thanks mr. Taylor . Usefull video as always.
My pleasure!
Perhaps anybody reding here has partial or hol feedback to my preocupation here :
In matters of HS by Broncolor Siros 800L vs HSS by Elinchrom's ELC HD Pro 500
... Ai-Copilote tells me over and over again that HD is less reliable in matters of even illumination and freezing movement. The latter I mind less, meaning that If I choose up to 1/8000" of my camera, this I can live/adapt with. However "consistancy" of illumination over the frame and/or across 2 and more shots is trubling. HSS will considerably retrograde maximum output power etc, that indeed I can grasp also, vs a long exposer of the HS aproach.
My préoccupation is, should I part from my new (second hand) ELC or keep them over my also newly aquired (2nd hand) SirosL, or really keep them for their stroboscopic ability... (and meanwile use them as slaves (triggered by the Siros' firing) ?
And, can anyone confirm that on-camera(Sony) triggers exist that can make HS.- and HSS-flash sucessfully trigger "togetger" ?
😊 Thank in advance !
Always love your videos brother
Glad you like them!
16:19 Her look! xD
Godox pro and even some of there beginner lights are super durable have never had a single light break on me in the last 6 years and i’m a wrecking ball! lol
I really hope I can move to broncolor some day tho. It was always my choice based on the modifiers and the capabilities of the lights.
Thanks for sharing HT
good video! well explained.
Glad you liked it Moritz!
I was forced to make a similar choice 2 and a half years ago. As 100% of my work is location work I went with Profoto's battery-powered monolights. So far it's made an enormous difference.
As for funding, I took a huge chunk out of my IRA. At the time it seemed like a good plan. I wasn't going to go in dept plus there would be no retirement of I started losing work because of inadequate light. Then, about 2 years later, the "plague" came to town. I didn't need to pay a monthly bill because it was all paid for but at the same time that cash could have come in handy. I'm just now starting to get back to work. Even so, I'm certainly not running full steam ahead yet.
Oh well, perhaps things will be back to normal a year from now. We'll have to wait and see.
Thanks for the video and have a great day.
Good luck Barry - hope the business picks up over the coming months!
Thank you @@VisualEducationStudio
i switched to continuous daylight bulbs in 5 dollar clamp dishes and never looked back...
Thank you for your time and effort! :)
My pleasure Duphe!
Thanks for everything..
Always welcome Kavindu
You're a great professional guy without any of the sleaze or shilling attached to your business model that I see on other channels. Assuming you make another video that's not just broncolor related, I'd be interested to see what angle you take when comparing recent products made by Godox and Profoto.
Broncolor and Profoto charge extortionate prices for accessories. Battery packs, housing 18650 lithium batteries and mostly air, with a small circuit board, are extortionately priced. Barn doors, costing $20 to make are much the same. These overpriced accessories often underperforming chinese equivalents (fotodiox zoom reflectors are FAR more color neutral than profoto) make me wonder if the accessories are a scam, are the lights too? I literally wonder if the broncolor move costs $100 to make and is being sold for thousands. Why wouldn't I? The accessories are a scam. Why won't the lights be too? The godox v1 is more color stable than the profoto a1 (or is that a1x? a10? sorry, they're so reliable they had to release three units of the same flash in so many years!) and it has a much nicer light fall off. The godox ad400 pro is barebulb (fills a para better), more color stable than profoto and lighter than broncolor (plus it has an extendable head).
Profoto at this point is highly gimmicky but if you don't need barebulb, it's truly great for SOME photographers e.g. weddings. Godox is great for shooting rooms where you'll want colour stable speedlights and strobes. But it's not perfect. They shoot incredibly blue and if you gel it, you're losing power which means you buy something bigger and more expensive (getting you closer to broncolor prices). The speedlights shoot at a much colder temperature to their other lights. It's annoying. I'd still argue the godox v1 is better than the profoto regardless of cost.
For accessories, it's annoying having three separate mounting systems (godox). Profoto modifier system is fast and easy for wedding photographers but it's unstable for some types of photography. I think broncolor nails this. The move 1200 L is big and heavy, and annoying for certain types of photography. The siros are more in budget for many, but again really, really heavy. In my next comment (running out of space), I'll specify how broncolor would make me a customer.
Broncolor are color accurate, speedy, reliable and accessories are vast. If the accessories are too expensive, I can just buy a third party accessory, so realistically I can make this system work.
If they could make a color stable daylight balanced speedlight (these things are great for shooting rooms!) and a broncolor move 400L or 600L (basically a mini broncolor move 1200L), I would invest in their system tomorrow. I don't need TTL. HSS I can live without (it's nice though). Being able to quickly gel modifiers is useful for shooting rooms, and honestly the broncolor move, an 8 year old flash, is too expensive in todays world. You can't change color temp like a scoro or led temp like a profoto b10.
I would like to get away from godox, budget isn't really the concern here. I really, really want to see broncolor make something like a more powerful profoto b2, with barebulb heads. And preferably reasonably priced. It would encourage people like me to buy into the system. From there I'd be okay buying the siros lights but the siros lights on their own are far too heavy.
Alternatively, I could make a godox v1 and broncolor system work if triggers permitted.
For me, it's not about budget so much, none of the companies are offering quite what I want. Broncolor does seem to be the best, but one or two lightweight flash units shy of me investing. I would pay twice the price for a godox v1 (I noticed the transmitter is made by godox) that shoots the same color temperature as broncolor, and then have a mini move.
In short, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make a mini broncolor move 1200 L. That's the most important thing for me, and that alone would make me invest (plus I'd buy siros lights). A speedlight after that would be useful but I really need a 400-600watt flash that isn't the size of a small country.
Hehe, Karl gained more handsomeness as he aged :)
HE certainly gained less hair!!!! - Good one Karl- I have done this now Eli to Bron
😂 😂 😂
Godox same power and consistent color. Prophoto is too expensive and so is Broncolor.
I'm sorry, Broncolor all the way! The quality of this light is just unbelievable. It's not by chance that it's called 'the light' as it is!!
Great Video Mr. Karl Taylor! I plan to upgrade to Broncolor in the future with studio packs and Pico Lights.
good move David!
David, if you're fast, we have a special deal until end of October. Have a look: broncolor.swiss/news/promotion-trade-in-your-old-powerpack-for-a-scoro
Thanks sir 🙏🏻
Most welcome
Karl Taylor 🙏🙏🙏
I don’t watch all of your videos mainly as I don’t photograph people, horrible creatures best left to their own devices... Many, especially lighting, do actually fit wildlife and macro photography which is my joy. Even the portrait lighting videos help as I gives ideas how to light wildlife in the field, especially macro.
Hi Phil, I'm glad they can still be of use to your genres.
Still love my very old Broncolor Impact monoblock lights, they must be geting around 35 years old.
They really are standing the test of time John!
Hi John. That's great to hear :-) Thank you.
Godox and never looked back.
I also think Broncolor is the best choice out there. But I've spend a lot cash on Godox. 😀
Still a good choice Nildo. As long as they're doing the job you need :-)
When you cant even afford Elinchrome and he says that it doesn't gives him the right light 🥲
Respect to Broncolor for putting so much into flash duration and colour consistency across the range. I hardly ever do studio work and it’s not a priority, but prefer my ugly Elinchrom Style heads over the newer models (I prefer real buttons and sliders). Interestingly, I’ve used Profoto twice and twice they’ve failed on me.
Cheers for commenting Joseph... certainly can't knock the quality of bron's range
Shout-out to (any) NORMAN users; been using the same since....late 1980's. Portable, 400B (equiv 8 speedlights) and my studio mama, P2000D pack. Dudes, all I can say is that I've changed batteries a couple of times on the 400, and replaced a blown capacitor on my pack.....and they just keep tickin'. And I saved a $hit-load!
Thanks for the information Tommy. Glad they're still ticking!
lol 16:16 never seen a man run so fast from a bit of water. Stick to your studio photography and leave the on-loction shooting to the real men.
I'll keep that in mind next time i'm filming shipwrecks at 75m.