Part 2 of the repair should be up tomorrow. It was a longer than usual video for me, so I decided to break it into 2 parts for the sake of editing and for those not wanting to sit through 32 minutes straight! Leave a comment if you like or dislike these videos to be longer like this (more info left in) and if you'd prefer 1 long video, or 2 or more smaller 10 or 15 minutes parts. Thanks guys, hope this one helps a few people!
I have this engine in a skoda octavia. Great engine, at nearly 170K km. Oil change ever 10K km. Runs beautiful with an average of 5.4 L/100km. Keep the oil changes on these CAXA engines frequent and I think they have 250K km at least.
Good morning, ask. At the tip of the crankshaft, apart from the sprocket with the teeth where the distribution chain goes, the cylindrical casauillo with its oring internally, the timing belt and the pulley for the accessory belt. DOES IT HAVE 2 WASHERS? When disassembling I did not realize and I only have 2 washers but they are equal to each other, but the detail is that the external dianeting of the washer is the same as that of the cylindrical bushing, but the internal diameter is larger than the diameter of the tip of the crankshaft remaining with clearance. In one part of the manual there is a breakdown and it does not include the 2 washers and in another part of the manual there is a breakdown with the 2 washers but these are 2 washers of different sizes from each other, and the title is written as "repair kit "This washer is diamond coated
Nice informative video! Thanks. I just bought a 09 vw touran with engine code BMY/CAVC. Local vw dealership estimated a high price for the repair so the previous owner decided to sell the car to me instead of repairing. The cost was estimated as with bent valves but engine was never opened from dealership. I was about to pull the head right away, but after seeing this video i wonder if the symptoms which led the previous owner to believe was bent valves, may just be timing gone off? How often do valves bend when this problem appears? Would probably be wise to install new chain and tensioner and test compression before pulling the head, agree? Best regards
Yeah test with new chain on before pulling the head. Or if you have access to a cylinder leakage tester, you can test to see if any leakage past valves into the intake or exhaust. Does the car start? I have seen these bend valves. They crank on the starter motor fast and you can hear they have no compression.
@@FourRingsAuto Thanks! Yep the car starts and drives but not without of alot of unpleasant noises, would it not start if valves was bent? Waiting for parts at the moment, will there even be any point in testing with cyl. leakage tester before installing new chain and adjust to correct tdc?
Hi, I have the same engine...when would I need to change my timing chain. I have no engine light on, but I was told these CAXA has common timing chain tensioner and chain fault. My car is 2011 (61), and 70k mileage.
there isn't a set interval for replacement, but I generally see them stretch due to poor oil quality and extended service intervals. as you suggest miles rather than kms, i'd guess you are in the UK where long life service intervals can allow a variable service of up to 19,000 miles (correct me if i'm wrong as i left in 2012 to Australia). this is far too long between changing the engine oil. here it is 15,000km (around 9000miles) or 1 year, yet we still recommend reducing it down to 10,000km. another important thing to note is the oil being used. it must be of high quality and meet the vw 504/507 standard, in some circumstances and countries vw502 spec will suffice. the highest grade fuel available will also help. i'd say at your mileage it would be worth having the timing checked, for at least a level of piece of mind. the chain isn't a difficult job to do either, and doesn't require engine removal.
@@FourRingsAuto I have used the Castrol long life oil, which is VW standard 504/507, but I only had my car since 60k miles, so I’m not sure what was used before that. I think the long service intervals are 20k miles here in the UK…but as you mentioned, I wouldn’t trust that. Therefore, I’m planning to change my oil every year or around 7000-9000 miles. In terms of me getting my chain checked out….most mechanics just want to strip everything down and physically look at the chain, which is costly if there was no issue with the chain. I have no engine light on and my car runs fine, it’s just I get cold start rattles sometimes, and most say that could either be the tensioner, crankshaft adjuster (VVT Gear) or normal noise (low oil pressure in cold starts). It’s really difficult for a mechanic to investigate without stripping everything as the cold start rattles only come sometimes, and once the car is warm, the chain won’t rattle etc. Is there a difference between a tensioner cold start rattle and crankshaft adjuster rattle?
@@shazadjabar6984 camshaft adjuster rattle is a known issue, but so are the tensioners sticking in a retracted position. You can check chain stretch with a degree wheel on the crank as per vw audi instructions in their workshop manual. Tensioner you can see if it's sticking with the sump off but won't be able to see a part number for full identification.
Hello, Something is not clear, do we have to remove the oil pan when making the timing chain job? In the official documentation, it is said that we have to remove it, but I doubt. Can you please tell me? Really good video by the way :)
Yes you should remove it. You can get away with not removing it, and i have done it that way before. But removing it makes resealing it all much more easier and reliable. Plus you can clean all the built up grime out of the sump which will allow the fresh oil to stay fresh and better for the engine in general. Any broken guides will likely be in there too.
My golf 1,4 tsi had timing chain replaced for the first time at 135k kilometers. Once the chain is changed is it less likely to need an timing chain replacement again?
Hi! Code error P000A would also be a sign of a tensioner problem? I had my timing chain replaced 8.000 km ago, although the oil hasn't been changed in 20,000km... Now it looks like I need to replace the chain or the VTC again? The car rattles during engine cold starts.
@@FourRingsAuto I bought a Golf with this engine last year with 100.000km on it. Now I have 130.000. Would it be wise to change the chain tensioner beforehand (since it's a common problem) or do I change it when the problem occurs? Some people said (forums) it can snap without warning and destroying the engine.
Ok..so I commented before I noticed you had actually removed the engine...is this to video it clearly ? I have done a few of these with engine in situ.
It is mentioned in the video a couple of time that it's not necessary to remove the engine. It was removed due to the dsg clutch being replaced and due to how simple the engines come out, it was deemed to be easier for both jobs, rather than do the strip down of each entirely seperate. The better view for the video was merely a welcome by product. I have linked in the description where I have a video of how to replace them in the car, this video is just a different way of showcasing the failure.
Hi These usually stretch due to poor oil / changes / time between changes and obviously the wrong oil. Timing chain tensioner usually gets "gritty" in operation and then starts to jam when the vvt system operates. This stretches chain. Straight forward job though 😁 for a man of your abilities. Obviously a good flush of the engine oil too.
I get a 2-3 second chain rattle when starting. Been doing it for approx 9 years to be honest but do you think i need to change the chain. Only has 68000 miles on it.
That's actually normal I've been told, on a cold start it's fine, it becomes a problem when it keeps doing it when warm, it's also a bit hard to discern since these engines naturally sound like lawnmowers
My audi a3 1.4 tfsi caxc 8p has 130,000 miles. Get P0016 engine light once every month. Car struggles to start in morning. Needs revs to maintain revs or itll stall out. Starts fine when warm. Doesnt have loud chain tap but normal tsi rattle that I hear. Not as loud as this video. Would the camshaft and crankshaft fix the issue? Revs are also at 700 rpm at idle. Sometimes goes to 900 rpm...
Sounds like a possible jumped timing chain, however it being intermittent I'd be also suspect of a possible cam variator issue. You could verify timing if you had access to the timing tools.
@@FourRingsAuto so jumped chain AND variator or just variator? Idle revs jump around slowly. Can feel slight vibrations at idle. Drives fine though. It's only cold start where needs revs to start. Sometimes starts fine from cold....
You may find it easier to take the vehicle to a vw audi specialist and have them correctly diagnose the issue. Changing parts by guessing what's wrong will waste more money in the longrun. I'm merely saying it could be a jumped chain, it could also be a variator issue. It could be a few things to be honest, but I don't have the car in front of me so I can't tell you for sure, that's not possible. There's a lot of info in these 1.4tsi videos on the playlist I've created, but otherwise you'd be best seeking a professional to look at the car.
Changing the oil more often is a preventative way, but the damage can already be done with the age of these vehicles now. If there is any rattling from cold starts this can be an indicator of a faulty inlet cam variator, timing chain tensioner, or worn chain. The first 2 items can cause further wear to the chain, and the 3 will eventually end up potentially breaking the plastic guides.
Four Rings Auto Thanks for the answer. I change the oil every 10.000km with 5W/30 Castrol. Sometimes during cold start the engine rattles for 1-2 seconds. Sometimes it does not. I use Shell V-power. Why did they design the engine like this if it breaks all the time?
hi i changed the chain kit on my 2010 audi a3 1.4 and it still makes a rattle for maybe 2 seconds when starting from cold all genuin audi parts any ideas cheers
Did you check the inlet cam variator? The variable valve timing pulley is likely not locking when the engine is shut off. The rattling is the variator and camshaft rattling back and forth until oil pressure is built up. You replaced the tensioner when doing the chain too right?
Part 2 of the repair should be up tomorrow. It was a longer than usual video for me, so I decided to break it into 2 parts for the sake of editing and for those not wanting to sit through 32 minutes straight! Leave a comment if you like or dislike these videos to be longer like this (more info left in) and if you'd prefer 1 long video, or 2 or more smaller 10 or 15 minutes parts. Thanks guys, hope this one helps a few people!
I have this engine in a skoda octavia. Great engine, at nearly 170K km. Oil change ever 10K km. Runs beautiful with an average of 5.4 L/100km. Keep the oil changes on these CAXA engines frequent and I think they have 250K km at least.
Good morning, ask. At the tip of the crankshaft, apart from the sprocket with the teeth where the distribution chain goes, the cylindrical casauillo with its oring internally, the timing belt and the pulley for the accessory belt. DOES IT HAVE 2 WASHERS? When disassembling I did not realize and I only have 2 washers but they are equal to each other, but the detail is that the external dianeting of the washer is the same as that of the cylindrical bushing, but the internal diameter is larger than the diameter of the tip of the crankshaft remaining with clearance. In one part of the manual there is a breakdown and it does not include the 2 washers and in another part of the manual there is a breakdown with the 2 washers but these are 2 washers of different sizes from each other, and the title is written as "repair kit "This washer is diamond coated
Thanks for good information. So when engine stacked due worn timing(code0016), the valves probably met pistons or...?
So should I avoid this motor at all costs?
Nice informative video! Thanks.
I just bought a 09 vw touran with engine code BMY/CAVC. Local vw dealership estimated a high price for the repair so the previous owner decided to sell the car to me instead of repairing. The cost was estimated as with bent valves but engine was never opened from dealership. I was about to pull the head right away, but after seeing this video i wonder if the symptoms which led the previous owner to believe was bent valves, may just be timing gone off? How often do valves bend when this problem appears? Would probably be wise to install new chain and tensioner and test compression before pulling the head, agree?
Best regards
Yeah test with new chain on before pulling the head. Or if you have access to a cylinder leakage tester, you can test to see if any leakage past valves into the intake or exhaust. Does the car start? I have seen these bend valves. They crank on the starter motor fast and you can hear they have no compression.
@@FourRingsAuto
Thanks! Yep the car starts and drives but not without of alot of unpleasant noises, would it not start if valves was bent?
Waiting for parts at the moment, will there even be any point in testing with cyl. leakage tester before installing new chain and adjust to correct tdc?
Hi. Do you know the standard height of this cylinder head? Thanks! Good video
Easy subscribe, your videos are top of the range!
I just changed my chain at this garage but the car keep on making this noise! And also has the same fault P0016
Hi any update?
Hi,
I have the same engine...when would I need to change my timing chain. I have no engine light on, but I was told these CAXA has common timing chain tensioner and chain fault. My car is 2011 (61), and 70k mileage.
there isn't a set interval for replacement, but I generally see them stretch due to poor oil quality and extended service intervals. as you suggest miles rather than kms, i'd guess you are in the UK where long life service intervals can allow a variable service of up to 19,000 miles (correct me if i'm wrong as i left in 2012 to Australia). this is far too long between changing the engine oil. here it is 15,000km (around 9000miles) or 1 year, yet we still recommend reducing it down to 10,000km. another important thing to note is the oil being used. it must be of high quality and meet the vw 504/507 standard, in some circumstances and countries vw502 spec will suffice. the highest grade fuel available will also help. i'd say at your mileage it would be worth having the timing checked, for at least a level of piece of mind. the chain isn't a difficult job to do either, and doesn't require engine removal.
@@FourRingsAuto
I have used the Castrol long life oil, which is VW standard 504/507, but I only had my car since 60k miles, so I’m not sure what was used before that. I think the long service intervals are 20k miles here in the UK…but as you mentioned, I wouldn’t trust that. Therefore, I’m planning to change my oil every year or around 7000-9000 miles. In terms of me getting my chain checked out….most mechanics just want to strip everything down and physically look at the chain, which is costly if there was no issue with the chain. I have no engine light on and my car runs fine, it’s just I get cold start rattles sometimes, and most say that could either be the tensioner, crankshaft adjuster (VVT Gear) or normal noise (low oil pressure in cold starts). It’s really difficult for a mechanic to investigate without stripping everything as the cold start rattles only come sometimes, and once the car is warm, the chain won’t rattle etc.
Is there a difference between a tensioner cold start rattle and crankshaft adjuster rattle?
@@chrischannel3250 How do you check what type or style of tensioner you have? can you tell by the year of the car?
@@shazadjabar6984 camshaft adjuster rattle is a known issue, but so are the tensioners sticking in a retracted position. You can check chain stretch with a degree wheel on the crank as per vw audi instructions in their workshop manual. Tensioner you can see if it's sticking with the sump off but won't be able to see a part number for full identification.
Can you show the camshaft and crankshaft sensor location please? caxc caxa
Hello,
Something is not clear, do we have to remove the oil pan when making the timing chain job? In the official documentation, it is said that we have to remove it, but I doubt. Can you please tell me?
Really good video by the way :)
Yes you should remove it. You can get away with not removing it, and i have done it that way before. But removing it makes resealing it all much more easier and reliable. Plus you can clean all the built up grime out of the sump which will allow the fresh oil to stay fresh and better for the engine in general. Any broken guides will likely be in there too.
@@FourRingsAuto thanks a lot for your answer and video :)
My golf 1,4 tsi had timing chain replaced for the first time at 135k kilometers. Once the chain is changed is it less likely to need an timing chain replacement again?
They'll always need replacing at some point. Shorter service intervals will prolong it's life.
@@FourRingsAuto Thanks so much for the reply, you rock!!
How did you undo the crank bolt did you use a impact gun, how did you not move the crank whilst undoing the bolt
how did you?
Hi! Code error P000A would also be a sign of a tensioner problem? I had my timing chain replaced 8.000 km ago, although the oil hasn't been changed in 20,000km... Now it looks like I need to replace the chain or the VTC again?
The car rattles during engine cold starts.
Nice video. Do all the mk6 tsi 1.4 122hp have timing chain?
Yes they all have chains.
@@FourRingsAuto thank you very much!
Do they have a specific mileage they tend to fail at ? Thank you
Had them noisy and stretched at 70k kms, or 200k kms. Seems to be down to oil used and service intervals.
@@FourRingsAuto I bought a Golf with this engine last year with 100.000km on it. Now I have 130.000. Would it be wise to change the chain tensioner beforehand (since it's a common problem) or do I change it when the problem occurs? Some people said (forums) it can snap without warning and destroying the engine.
Ok..so I commented before I noticed you had actually removed the engine...is this to video it clearly ?
I have done a few of these with engine in situ.
It is mentioned in the video a couple of time that it's not necessary to remove the engine. It was removed due to the dsg clutch being replaced and due to how simple the engines come out, it was deemed to be easier for both jobs, rather than do the strip down of each entirely seperate. The better view for the video was merely a welcome by product. I have linked in the description where I have a video of how to replace them in the car, this video is just a different way of showcasing the failure.
Hi
These usually stretch due to poor oil / changes / time between changes and obviously the wrong oil.
Timing chain tensioner usually gets "gritty" in operation and then starts to jam when the vvt system operates. This stretches chain.
Straight forward job though 😁 for a man of your abilities.
Obviously a good flush of the engine oil too.
I get a 2-3 second chain rattle when starting. Been doing it for approx 9 years to be honest but do you think i need to change the chain. Only has 68000 miles on it.
No, I already have 170 000 km with no change
@@AlexK59. does yours rattle at startup
That's actually normal I've been told, on a cold start it's fine, it becomes a problem when it keeps doing it when warm, it's also a bit hard to discern since these engines naturally sound like lawnmowers
My audi a3 1.4 tfsi caxc 8p has 130,000 miles. Get P0016 engine light once every month. Car struggles to start in morning. Needs revs to maintain revs or itll stall out. Starts fine when warm. Doesnt have loud chain tap but normal tsi rattle that I hear. Not as loud as this video. Would the camshaft and crankshaft fix the issue? Revs are also at 700 rpm at idle. Sometimes goes to 900 rpm...
Sounds like a possible jumped timing chain, however it being intermittent I'd be also suspect of a possible cam variator issue. You could verify timing if you had access to the timing tools.
@@FourRingsAuto so jumped chain AND variator or just variator? Idle revs jump around slowly. Can feel slight vibrations at idle. Drives fine though. It's only cold start where needs revs to start. Sometimes starts fine from cold....
Also replaces plugs and coils. And camshaft position sensor
You may find it easier to take the vehicle to a vw audi specialist and have them correctly diagnose the issue. Changing parts by guessing what's wrong will waste more money in the longrun. I'm merely saying it could be a jumped chain, it could also be a variator issue. It could be a few things to be honest, but I don't have the car in front of me so I can't tell you for sure, that's not possible. There's a lot of info in these 1.4tsi videos on the playlist I've created, but otherwise you'd be best seeking a professional to look at the car.
@@FourRingsAuto where abouts are you based in the uk?
What can you do to avoid the chain stretching? I have the 1.4 TSI BMY twincharged
Changing the oil more often is a preventative way, but the damage can already be done with the age of these vehicles now. If there is any rattling from cold starts this can be an indicator of a faulty inlet cam variator, timing chain tensioner, or worn chain. The first 2 items can cause further wear to the chain, and the 3 will eventually end up potentially breaking the plastic guides.
Four Rings Auto Thanks for the answer. I change the oil every 10.000km with 5W/30 Castrol. Sometimes during cold start the engine rattles for 1-2 seconds. Sometimes it does not. I use Shell V-power.
Why did they design the engine like this if it breaks all the time?
@@FourRingsAuto you seem a good profesional! (I am Spanish xD)
hi i changed the chain kit on my 2010 audi a3 1.4 and it still makes a rattle for maybe 2 seconds when starting from cold all genuin audi parts any ideas cheers
Did you check the inlet cam variator? The variable valve timing pulley is likely not locking when the engine is shut off. The rattling is the variator and camshaft rattling back and forth until oil pressure is built up. You replaced the tensioner when doing the chain too right?
@@FourRingsAuto yes change variable timing pully tensioner slippers chain cogs how do check if its not locking
normal until oil pressure builds