I can't recommend this technique enough. I've done nearly the same thing with my stormcast but with a couple in between steps. I add a very small amount of vmc gold in the mid tone. I don't care for the color on its own but it's a fantastic undertone especially with the slightly green hue it gives off. I actually use strong tone and flesh wash instead of black ink. Yes it does knock the shine out but I got back and dry brush the dark aluminum over the top. I swear to god drybrushing vmc does not look like a dry brush. A few highlights and black lines and it's finished. The result is an amazing weathered steel with bronze undertones.
If you drybrush VMC right (which it sounds like you do) you can get a stunning effect out of it. It will be a little rougher, but in the best way possible.
Hi Vince. We played our first big Apocalypse game last night, Heretics Vs Imperium. We deployed our collected Iron Warriors in the middle of our deployment zone. It was the first time I could see my guys next to other guys with supposedly the same colour scheme. I didn't realise how stark the difference between our models would be. Mine were Vallejo Metal Colour with an oil wash, their colleagues were GW Boltgun Metal with Nuln Oil. Comparisons such as these are entirely subjective, but I liked the Vince method over the GW method for giving much wider contrast with more shine and deeper shadows. I'm glad I followed your recommendation!
6:43 Vallejo black ink remains one of my favorite paints to airbrush. I like it more than my artist black ink (Liquitex). Would have not have predicted that.
WHOOOH!!!! Now I'm motivated. I have to finish building and then paint a Stormcast army for a tournament on Saturday...plus make custom bases...maybe a tray too? I have the Vallejo Model Game air, which I like (still have to try the ones you have). I also picked up some of the new Mecha line to try out and an airbrush to go with it. I like that reverse zenithal technique, can't wait to try it out.
Get the Metal Color. Model Air was good, this is amazing. You are flying a WWII fighter, it can do some amazing things, but VMC is an F-22. It's just beyond. Glad to hear I have motivated you for some true craziness, look forward to seeing the results. ;)
Hi Vince. I've been using a similar technique for my primaris, the get them on the table quick. I've been going from steel up to aluminium then hitting the whole model with a gloss varnish through the air brush, then applying a brush nuln oil (gloss version). I find the gloss varnish helps stop unnecessary pooling on the mini whilst the gloss nuln oil doesn't dampen the metallic. However, I think I might try your technique next time!
Glad to help, like I said in the video, you could do the whole thing and then wash, but I would use a Black/Sepia oil wash, that way you can give a wipe and keep it clean.
Pretty decent results for a quick and easy method. I'd always read/heard that the belt was called a "cinculum militaire"; its a piece from Roman armor and was used not only as a form of protection but to display insignias of rank, medals, etc.
Excellent tutorial but I have a few questions: 1. Where did you buy your airbrush paint thinner? 2. Where did you buy your airbrush paint station from? 3. What was the blue colors you use for the shoulder pads? A list in the description of the paints you use would be very helpful.
1. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, usually just buy the bulk from Amazon then transfer. 2. Amazon, it's this one - www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Optional-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512225981&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+booth 3. Huldra Blue from Scale 75. I have generally resisted paint recipes because that makes it sound like that is the color you should use and generally, with non-metallic acrylic colors, it doesn't really matter, any dark blue you like will work fine. :) Hope that helps.
Thank you for all these videos, they have been amazing for my journey into mini painting, one question I had was, can you add a drop of coloured ink into the metal colour to get a tinted metal look or would it be better to glaze over the colour after ?
Not as good is the short answer. The Model Air is their original try at this. The Metal Color is the new stuff. It's slightly more expensive (generically), but its also more paint, as they're in 32ml bottles and will last a really, really, really long time. It's worth it for the steel, dark aluminum, Pale Burnt Metal and Silver if I was going to pick a few.
Thanks, yeah, I really need a dark, more blackish metallic as most in the 72-bottle Game Color set are quite bright silver, brass and gold (and thickish for airbrushing). I asked you someplace else, but do you have a link for the nail polish rack you use for your paints? I have all Vallejo.
Love the end result, intending on using this technique to 'hammer' out mine soon enough. If i was looking to increase the saturation of the blue shoulder pads would you recommend doing the same technique but with blue paint instead of white? Also looking to give the shoulders a semigloss or gloss finish to give the impression of enamel, would you recommend using GW's Soulstone Blue technical to glaze to such an end or just brush over with the relevant varnish?
My general feeling would be to use a more saturated blue. Blue actually looks brighter and stronger over a white undershade in general, than trying to get it straight over, but you could play with this. As to the shine, I wouldn't use the gem, it's too glossy. I would go for a Satin Varnish over the top. Enamel wouldn't be glass level of reflectiveness and that would be a good middle ground.
Much love man, will go with your recommendation and see how I go and thank you a bunch for the reply. Your tuts are keeping me sane with the newborn, I am living vicariously through your videos currently.
What could be some next steps to make this a more sophisticated mini? Also are their techniques that involve combination true metallic and non-metallic metal effects together successfully?
So I have videos all about adding colors to metals (several within the playlist), here is a good starter - ruclips.net/video/NRYgfJDNL2k/видео.html THe way you would go from here is basically with the brush and adding in more detailed contrast and reflections.
@@VinceVenturella Ahhhg! I feel like being reminded to check material already listed on the syllabus! Thanks so much for your generousness and down to earthiness with people asking for your responses and time. I know that valuing time is one of your core principals and it's impressive to see how generous you are with it when it comes to encouraging other peoples hobbying. Thanks so much
Good content as always. I wonder what that stormcast head is though. I generally don't like them cause I don't like their helmets. (except the really ornate one on the heroes) So I wonder where that one is from, or is that the standard one?
Hi Vince, I'm wondering how you might suggest taking the basic concept in this video and pushing it up toward a more mirror polished steel look? Do you think that would be doable with a TMM approach? Thank you again for the years and years of incredible content!
You can push into something like Molotow Liquid Chrome for the highest highlights with a brush, and then carefully deepen the shadows with some more clareful glazes of the black ink. It will give you the highly reflective look.
I'm so glad I found this video, I've just got into inks and saving my washes for more organic and textured things. I do have a question or two though. Does VMA Metallica compare to the metal range (I only have the gold and copper metal colour) and a bit apprehensive to spend. That being said your justification for using metal colour is very convincing! Also what's the step up from this? I'm thinking selective edge highlighting. Would you use the top tone to edge highlight? And possibly a few spot highlights mixing white? That would be my thought but I want to pick your brain
So yes, they are one of the best hobby investments I've ever made. You can get a limited amount. I would recommend Steel, Silver, Dark Aluminum and Pale Burnt metal. They are very worth it. THey are much better than even the Model Air range. When you want the final highlight, it's just either pure silver OR if you're feeling very brave, Molotow Chrome (I have review in my product reviews). It's like a mirror and what I use as my highest highlights on pure bright silver.
@@VinceVenturella thankyou :) one more question as days of searches and video can't seem to yield an answer, but is the chrome comparable to silver? Reason being my FLGS I support is out of silver and won't get stock for some time.
@@danielnikolich2737 I would just grab it from amazon if you can, the Chrome isn't really quite the same, if you need a close color from FLGS and don't have Silver, Pale Burnt Metal is actually the closest. www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Silver-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A94O64/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vallejo+metal+color+silver&qid=1575825300&sr=8-1
Two weeks ago I actually bought the exact same metallics to try this on my Dropfleet Commander Scourge fleet. I'm then going to go over the silver with Badger Ghost Tints then pick out the details with Vallejo Chrome.
Generally I use a .3, antique gold, depends what you mean, but I have this - ruclips.net/video/8RcdJTyDIE4/видео.html You may also find this helpful - ruclips.net/video/aX25IsoNaLM/видео.html
Amazing how the zenithal technique can be applied to more than just priming. Vince, I have 3 darker shades: Gunmetal, Magnesium and Steel. What do you think would work best with necrons? I don't exactly want them looking like knights but I do want them to look metallic.
Hi Vince, been loving your videos so far. Really inspired to try my hand at things like glazing and TMM. Question for you though, there are a several Vallejo Metal Colour sets and being able to afford them in one hit. Which colours would you recommend as a starting core set?
As a question. I have the full VMC range, and am wondering about starting from something like Jet Exhaust. It has that slight brown tone to it, but it's a much darker shadow. I was thinking full coat of the dark tone, then straight on with Magnesium/Steel, then Dark Aluminum, then Silver, then possibly pick out a few key points with White Aluminum. So, a few questions: Have you tried a four point zenithal instead of a three point, if so, how did it turn out? Why Magnesium over Steel? I sometimes get a strange pattern with my VMC, a mottling, I think it's overspraying, but I'm not sure. Have you run into that before?
vallejo recommends priming with gloss black before using these, do you think that is neccessary or can you get a very similar effect with a normal prime job?
A gloss black is the best, but any primer can achieve great effects with these and they will have a beautiful shine. There is a small difference, but it's not essential. Hope that helps.
Hijacking a little, I'm new to airbrushing and im wondering about pressure. Do you read the pressure guage as the brush trigger is depressed, or when it isn't? Obviously the pressure drops when air is flowing, I'm just not sure which measurements people refer to in this kind of case
I deffinately going to use elements from this tutorial to make two variants of Khador Iron Fang Pikemen. A unit in steel colored armor and one in a more copper/brass looking armor. This is what I have on hand. I have the steel and gold from vallejo metal (the line you used in the video), I have brassy brass and alluminium game air. The rest of my metal colors are citadel. Gehenna's Gold, Hashnut Copper, Warplock Bronze, Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker. I am hoping I can use these in the airbrush. I haven't tried with citadel metal colours yet. I unfortunately don't have any black ink. Is it possible to use a thinned black paint maybe? I have glaze mediums and airbrush thinner or course. Fun little challenge for you, Vince - or anyone else who might have input. I am still new to the hobby, and that's why I'm kinda low on gear. Can I achieve something along the lines of what you did or do I need to go and get supplies?
My personal advice would be to pick up the Vallejo Metal Color copper and gold. With a little bit of ink mixed or careful washing, you can get a wide array of gold tones. It means some mixing, but it will work. The citadel and any non-airbrush metal just won't work through an airbrush, the pigment in metallic paint is real metal, it's either ground fine enough or not, so it will easily clog your airbrush.
I'm about to try this on my imperial knight. Is the process the same? I've never zenithal highlighted anything before. When spraying the mid tone would it be okay to spray lightly from left to right at an angle to catch the highlights or would you try to pick them out individually considering it's a larger model? Sorry if it's a silly question. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Great video as always.
Absolutely, this is exactly the strategy I use on the skeletons of my Imperial knights. You can certainly do the angle and it's always a good idea. That being said, because you have such a larger area, you can ad should be a little more focused. I don't just shoot at broad angles. I work closely in the areas and focus my highlights and shadows in the area that they would fall.
@@VinceVenturella I tried it and it worked perfectly! I had previously tried the citadel way of covering the skeleton in nuln oil after painting it silver and i hated the results whereas the technique you showed here looks fantastic when finished. Thanks for all of the advice. You've been a huge help in assuring my knight is finished to a standard that i'm happy with.
Great video. Just two questions: what pressure you are using for the ink (my first try with inks and airbrush was not pretty)? And which colors would you use for gold?
18PSI, same as everything else, but you need to have fine control with your fingers and just barely let any air and paint through. For gold, I would use Chestnut ink, mixed with the gold, then gold, then gold with pale burnt metal. I would mix some copper and gold to get a good tone.
I have a different video for gold, in general, I would avoid the yellow, it won't really look like gold, it will look more like yellow steel and strange.
They will absolutely do so. Metallic pigment is real metal, so it doesn't break down like other pigment. What defines the quality of metal paint is how fine the pigment is ground (it needs to be hyper-fine for airbrush). I have never had this stuff clog on me, Vallejo Metal Color is like magic, there is simply no other acrylic metallic paint like it.
You sure can, my general technique is to do a standard zenithal and then use thin glazes of a dark blue/black to bring it back down slowly through multiple glazes.
Awesome video Vince and perfect timing! I’ve been experimenting with something very similar on my Hallowed Knights Liberators. This is a huge help! Very curious to hear where you order your Vallejo Metal Color from and if there’s a set? Looks like Amazon sells them at about $10/bottle.
Thanks you for your tutorial ! I just tried it and the liquitex ink had a tendency to pool instead of just sticking in the areas i wanted : do you have any idea why ?
If you mean through the airbrush, you need less air/lower pressure. The smooth paint doesn't grip the paint as well, so you want to apply multiple thin glazes at a low pressure. Hope that helps.
sweet tutorial as always! I know your hatred of most metallic paint lines, I'm beginning to develop the same feeling. A question for you as to that (I may have missed it in a previous vid, but what are you using for gold paints? Im working on Thousand Sons, and damn the gw golds are frustrating to get a good old gold effect.
I use Vallejo Metal Color Copper and Gold and mix with inks to push the tones. They are far more limited than the steel, but they have a wonderful finished effect that looks like gold. For bronze, I add some sepia and silver to make it more brown. For iron, you increase or add the black ink directly to steel or magnesium to make it look more dark.
@@VinceVenturella I used the vallejo metal color gloss black. Went too heavy on the silver so had to redo it all. Was not a fan of oil washing. Spraying the acrylic ink looked 10x better
Nope, pretty much the same thing, if you check out the Alpha legion video, that is a newer take on it - ruclips.net/video/55h4vPnQETM/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
I don't varnish it. My basic strategy in most cases is to paint all the matte stuff, varnish, then paint the metals. VMeC is generally tough enough I don't have to worry and I never transport my stuff in foam, only on mag racks, so they don't touch anything or get scratched.
Vallejo Liquid Gold - Specifically the Old Gold. It's a great paint and I still use it some, but it's a great deal more difficult with the alcohol based paints.
Cheers Vince. Have you tried the Scale 75 metallics? They have a few shades from copper and bronze, even black gold, up to gold gold. I've got their Decayed Metal, it's not rust coloured but a nice dark brown metal, and not too flakey or pearly.
I'm keen to use this technique on my stormcast army, but I don't have ready access to Vallejo black ink right now. Can you recommend any alternatives? Would army painter dark tone ink work?
So any dark matte black would work. You could use Daler Rowney black ink, you could use the Dark Tone, it would just require a few applications since it's a little bit thinner.
There is no perfect option, but I use the Vallejo Metal Color Copper and Gold as well. The limitation is that there are FAR less colors, so you have to mix everything to get the right tone.
Depends on how you want to use them. If you're looking to run them through an airbrush, then yes, either Vallejo Metal Colors or Model Air metallic paints. If you're going to be putting them on with a regular brush I personally prefer the Vallejo Liquid Gold series, though something to keep in mind is that they're alcohol based and finnicky to work with; you definitely need to shake them alot, use some sort of palette since you'll need to put the lid back on quickly and securely to minimize the alcohol evaporating and you have to use at least 91% isopropyl alcohol to thin them and clean the brushes you use to paint with them. Also, whatever brushes you use, those are now your dedicated brushes for using the Liquid Gold; you'll never get all the metal pigment out and exposing them to water will cause them to rust pretty much instantly.
I have an iron warriors kill team I'm about to start. I have a .2mm and a .3mm (or .35 whichever lol). Do you think I should use the .2 for this technique? What psi do you recommend??
What’s the best way to clean the Vallejo primers from my airbrush? A lot of people have told me soak in simple green but I’m worried that will damage the o rings in my cheaper airbrush. I want to do this right away but apparently this primer is notorious for gumming your system up. Please help!
So I mean, I can tell you what I do and I haven't really had issues. After the priming (which I never let sit in there any longer than it has to), I flush it with airbrush cleaner (taking off the back and working the needle in and out). I run some normal water through 1-2 times, then I put in a mix of 99% isopropyl alcohol with a smidge of water and I let it sit for about 30 seconds, I back fill, dump the excess into a cup, then blow the rest through while working the needle in and out. After that, it's generally clean and I haven't had any issues. Hope that helps.
It's another option - That ink would work well as it's glossy if you want to preserve the shine. You could also mix a little brown tone in, to create your earth shadows with some inks. There are many options and all are good, in this case, I just wanted something more flat.
how do I turn this into blue steel and keep it metallic? not liking contrast talassar blue over it. think Lady Briennes armor from Game of Thrones. that blue steel armor.
So, some blue ink like I'm using in my most recent video is really the way I would recommend, I cover some blue steel in that video - ruclips.net/video/GdPeJ367b6g/видео.html
Do you mean on brand and such? If you don't have an airbrush at all, then you want to get a cheap all in-one master kit from amazon or something. Something that will give you a compressor and that you can use and abuse and break. You can pick that all up for $80-100 USD.
Thank you for your great content! I want to tackle my Grey Knights with this technique soon, but I am wondering how I could add a blue shine to the Armour without loosing the shine of the metallic colours. Do you have any advice? Maybe adding some Vallejo Blue Ink to the colours? Or an thin glaze at the end or in the middle? Ty :)
So you have two options, which will produce slightly different effects. 1) Mix a small amount of blue ink into the mid tone and highlight (Vallejo Blue Game Ink, Scale 75 Inktensity Blue, Metalsmith Blue Ore) and that should give it a slight blue tinge. 2) Glaze with airbrush a small amount of the same inks above after you lay down the zenithal. You would want this to be VERY thin. Hope that helps.
Nice tutorial, but the quality of the video seems not to be the usual one, the colours are yellowish and a bit blurry (especially in the airbrush booth).
I can't recommend this technique enough. I've done nearly the same thing with my stormcast but with a couple in between steps. I add a very small amount of vmc gold in the mid tone. I don't care for the color on its own but it's a fantastic undertone especially with the slightly green hue it gives off. I actually use strong tone and flesh wash instead of black ink. Yes it does knock the shine out but I got back and dry brush the dark aluminum over the top. I swear to god drybrushing vmc does not look like a dry brush. A few highlights and black lines and it's finished. The result is an amazing weathered steel with bronze undertones.
If you drybrush VMC right (which it sounds like you do) you can get a stunning effect out of it. It will be a little rougher, but in the best way possible.
Hi Vince. We played our first big Apocalypse game last night, Heretics Vs Imperium.
We deployed our collected Iron Warriors in the middle of our deployment zone. It was the first time I could see my guys next to other guys with supposedly the same colour scheme.
I didn't realise how stark the difference between our models would be. Mine were Vallejo Metal Colour with an oil wash, their colleagues were GW Boltgun Metal with Nuln Oil.
Comparisons such as these are entirely subjective, but I liked the Vince method over the GW method for giving much wider contrast with more shine and deeper shadows.
I'm glad I followed your recommendation!
That is awesome, yeah, the metals is where you see it. Iron within. ;)
6:43 Vallejo black ink remains one of my favorite paints to airbrush. I like it more than my artist black ink (Liquitex). Would have not have predicted that.
Absolutely.
Great share thanks Vince
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
You've just made painting my Grey Knights army super easy. Thanks Vince!
Awesome, I should have mentioned them as well! Great technique for that army.
Thinking of this as a sort of pilot project when I get an airbrush next month, as well as an Intro to vallejo metal color.
WHOOOH!!!! Now I'm motivated. I have to finish building and then paint a Stormcast army for a tournament on Saturday...plus make custom bases...maybe a tray too? I have the Vallejo Model Game air, which I like (still have to try the ones you have). I also picked up some of the new Mecha line to try out and an airbrush to go with it. I like that reverse zenithal technique, can't wait to try it out.
Get the Metal Color. Model Air was good, this is amazing. You are flying a WWII fighter, it can do some amazing things, but VMC is an F-22. It's just beyond.
Glad to hear I have motivated you for some true craziness, look forward to seeing the results. ;)
I’m thinking that I’ll do this for my Dominion box and rest of the army when I fill that out. Thanks, Vince!
Always happy to help.
Looks great. Those metallics are game changers
They really are. Most of the time, for most paints, I say use whatever you like, it's all fine - for this, there is no competition.
Hi Vince. I've been using a similar technique for my primaris, the get them on the table quick. I've been going from steel up to aluminium then hitting the whole model with a gloss varnish through the air brush, then applying a brush nuln oil (gloss version). I find the gloss varnish helps stop unnecessary pooling on the mini whilst the gloss nuln oil doesn't dampen the metallic. However, I think I might try your technique next time!
Glad to help, like I said in the video, you could do the whole thing and then wash, but I would use a Black/Sepia oil wash, that way you can give a wipe and keep it clean.
Vince Venturella yeah, I might invest in some oil washes, at least for vehicles and models with larger flat surfaces
Very topical and some very useful tips as always!
Glad to help as always. :)
Pretty decent results for a quick and easy method. I'd always read/heard that the belt was called a "cinculum militaire"; its a piece from Roman armor and was used not only as a form of protection but to display insignias of rank, medals, etc.
Someone else called it Pteruges, I have no idea, but they are a good addition to break up the armor.
Excellent tutorial but I have a few questions:
1. Where did you buy your airbrush paint thinner?
2. Where did you buy your airbrush paint station from?
3. What was the blue colors you use for the shoulder pads?
A list in the description of the paints you use would be very helpful.
1. Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, usually just buy the bulk from Amazon then transfer.
2. Amazon, it's this one - www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Optional-Extension/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512225981&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+booth
3. Huldra Blue from Scale 75.
I have generally resisted paint recipes because that makes it sound like that is the color you should use and generally, with non-metallic acrylic colors, it doesn't really matter, any dark blue you like will work fine. :)
Hope that helps.
Thank you for all these videos, they have been amazing for my journey into mini painting, one question I had was, can you add a drop of coloured ink into the metal colour to get a tinted metal look or would it be better to glaze over the colour after ?
You can do either, though each will have a slightly different effect - I have a whole video on it here. - ruclips.net/video/l9q35BPaBN0/видео.html
Thank you, so many tutorials im sure it was in there somewhere 😁
Looks great will be using this for my Crusaders for sure.
Awesome, glad to help.
Great vid.Vince, Vallejo also make a "Metallic Model Air" set ... how does this compare to the much more expensive Metal Color airbrush paint?
Not as good is the short answer. The Model Air is their original try at this. The Metal Color is the new stuff. It's slightly more expensive (generically), but its also more paint, as they're in 32ml bottles and will last a really, really, really long time. It's worth it for the steel, dark aluminum, Pale Burnt Metal and Silver if I was going to pick a few.
Thanks, yeah, I really need a dark, more blackish metallic as most in the 72-bottle Game Color set are quite bright silver, brass and gold (and thickish for airbrushing). I asked you someplace else, but do you have a link for the nail polish rack you use for your paints? I have all Vallejo.
Very nice technique. Thank you for the video
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Love the end result, intending on using this technique to 'hammer' out mine soon enough. If i was looking to increase the saturation of the blue shoulder pads would you recommend doing the same technique but with blue paint instead of white? Also looking to give the shoulders a semigloss or gloss finish to give the impression of enamel, would you recommend using GW's Soulstone Blue technical to glaze to such an end or just brush over with the relevant varnish?
My general feeling would be to use a more saturated blue. Blue actually looks brighter and stronger over a white undershade in general, than trying to get it straight over, but you could play with this. As to the shine, I wouldn't use the gem, it's too glossy. I would go for a Satin Varnish over the top. Enamel wouldn't be glass level of reflectiveness and that would be a good middle ground.
Much love man, will go with your recommendation and see how I go and thank you a bunch for the reply. Your tuts are keeping me sane with the newborn, I am living vicariously through your videos currently.
Thank you so very much. I find all of your videos informative and easy to follow. This one is no exception. Thanks again and keep it up.
Thank you, very much appreciated.
What could be some next steps to make this a more sophisticated mini? Also are their techniques that involve combination true metallic and non-metallic metal effects together successfully?
So I have videos all about adding colors to metals (several within the playlist), here is a good starter - ruclips.net/video/NRYgfJDNL2k/видео.html
THe way you would go from here is basically with the brush and adding in more detailed contrast and reflections.
@@VinceVenturella Ahhhg! I feel like being reminded to check material already listed on the syllabus! Thanks so much for your generousness and down to earthiness with people asking for your responses and time. I know that valuing time is one of your core principals and it's impressive to see how generous you are with it when it comes to encouraging other peoples hobbying. Thanks so much
Good content as always. I wonder what that stormcast head is though. I generally don't like them cause I don't like their helmets. (except the really ornate one on the heroes) So I wonder where that one is from, or is that the standard one?
That's actually a Prosecutor head (the flying guys), I just like them better so I swapped it. :)
Hi Vince, I'm wondering how you might suggest taking the basic concept in this video and pushing it up toward a more mirror polished steel look? Do you think that would be doable with a TMM approach? Thank you again for the years and years of incredible content!
You can push into something like Molotow Liquid Chrome for the highest highlights with a brush, and then carefully deepen the shadows with some more clareful glazes of the black ink. It will give you the highly reflective look.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks, I will try that out!
I'm so glad I found this video, I've just got into inks and saving my washes for more organic and textured things. I do have a question or two though. Does VMA Metallica compare to the metal range (I only have the gold and copper metal colour) and a bit apprehensive to spend. That being said your justification for using metal colour is very convincing! Also what's the step up from this? I'm thinking selective edge highlighting. Would you use the top tone to edge highlight? And possibly a few spot highlights mixing white? That would be my thought but I want to pick your brain
So yes, they are one of the best hobby investments I've ever made. You can get a limited amount. I would recommend Steel, Silver, Dark Aluminum and Pale Burnt metal. They are very worth it. THey are much better than even the Model Air range.
When you want the final highlight, it's just either pure silver OR if you're feeling very brave, Molotow Chrome (I have review in my product reviews). It's like a mirror and what I use as my highest highlights on pure bright silver.
@@VinceVenturella thankyou :) one more question as days of searches and video can't seem to yield an answer, but is the chrome comparable to silver? Reason being my FLGS I support is out of silver and won't get stock for some time.
@@danielnikolich2737 I would just grab it from amazon if you can, the Chrome isn't really quite the same, if you need a close color from FLGS and don't have Silver, Pale Burnt Metal is actually the closest.
www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Silver-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A94O64/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vallejo+metal+color+silver&qid=1575825300&sr=8-1
Two weeks ago I actually bought the exact same metallics to try this on my Dropfleet Commander Scourge fleet. I'm then going to go over the silver with Badger Ghost Tints then pick out the details with Vallejo Chrome.
Yep, I didn't mention the ghost tints, but that would be a good follow up to this, as you can candy coat this to get a great metallic color.
Amazing, thanks so much for this. Apologies for another question, what size nozzle do you use and do you have an antique gold vid?
Generally I use a .3, antique gold, depends what you mean, but I have this - ruclips.net/video/8RcdJTyDIE4/видео.html
You may also find this helpful - ruclips.net/video/aX25IsoNaLM/видео.html
Amazing how the zenithal technique can be applied to more than just priming. Vince, I have 3 darker shades: Gunmetal, Magnesium and Steel. What do you think would work best with necrons? I don't exactly want them looking like knights but I do want them to look metallic.
I would go gunmetal, I think it has a nice slightly blue tinge that will be good for the shadow.
Hi Vince, been loving your videos so far. Really inspired to try my hand at things like glazing and TMM. Question for you though, there are a several Vallejo Metal Colour sets and being able to afford them in one hit. Which colours would you recommend as a starting core set?
Vallejo Metal Color Steel, Dark Aluminum, Silver, Gold, Copper. The rest is gravy.
Thanks Vince, appreciate the recommendations!
As a question. I have the full VMC range, and am wondering about starting from something like Jet Exhaust. It has that slight brown tone to it, but it's a much darker shadow. I was thinking full coat of the dark tone, then straight on with Magnesium/Steel, then Dark Aluminum, then Silver, then possibly pick out a few key points with White Aluminum.
So, a few questions:
Have you tried a four point zenithal instead of a three point, if so, how did it turn out?
Why Magnesium over Steel?
I sometimes get a strange pattern with my VMC, a mottling, I think it's overspraying, but I'm not sure. Have you run into that before?
When taking the oil wash route, do you use that was before or after the final silver airbrushing step?
after, but you could do either.
This is a great guide, but one question. If I wanted to give the armor a blue tint, do I use blue ink? If so when do i apply it during this process?
Yep, shoot from below as the final step after this process.
@@VinceVenturella sorry for the late reply but below like a reverse zenithal? Like with the black ink?
Awesome!
:)
vallejo recommends priming with gloss black before using these, do you think that is neccessary or can you get a very similar effect with a normal prime job?
A gloss black is the best, but any primer can achieve great effects with these and they will have a beautiful shine. There is a small difference, but it's not essential. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the good tips! What PSI settings are you using fot this?
So I generally run at 18 PSI. That is my setting for about 99% of my work.
Thank you!
Hijacking a little, I'm new to airbrushing and im wondering about pressure. Do you read the pressure guage as the brush trigger is depressed, or when it isn't? Obviously the pressure drops when air is flowing, I'm just not sure which measurements people refer to in this kind of case
I deffinately going to use elements from this tutorial to make two variants of Khador Iron Fang Pikemen. A unit in steel colored armor and one in a more copper/brass looking armor.
This is what I have on hand.
I have the steel and gold from vallejo metal (the line you used in the video), I have brassy brass and alluminium game air. The rest of my metal colors are citadel. Gehenna's Gold, Hashnut Copper, Warplock Bronze, Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker. I am hoping I can use these in the airbrush. I haven't tried with citadel metal colours yet. I unfortunately don't have any black ink. Is it possible to use a thinned black paint maybe? I have glaze mediums and airbrush thinner or course.
Fun little challenge for you, Vince - or anyone else who might have input. I am still new to the hobby, and that's why I'm kinda low on gear.
Can I achieve something along the lines of what you did or do I need to go and get supplies?
My personal advice would be to pick up the Vallejo Metal Color copper and gold. With a little bit of ink mixed or careful washing, you can get a wide array of gold tones. It means some mixing, but it will work.
The citadel and any non-airbrush metal just won't work through an airbrush, the pigment in metallic paint is real metal, it's either ground fine enough or not, so it will easily clog your airbrush.
I'll do that. Then I can get the ink aswell. Thanks again, Vince. You're the best!
I'm about to try this on my imperial knight. Is the process the same? I've never zenithal highlighted anything before. When spraying the mid tone would it be okay to spray lightly from left to right at an angle to catch the highlights or would you try to pick them out individually considering it's a larger model? Sorry if it's a silly question. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Great video as always.
Absolutely, this is exactly the strategy I use on the skeletons of my Imperial knights. You can certainly do the angle and it's always a good idea. That being said, because you have such a larger area, you can ad should be a little more focused. I don't just shoot at broad angles. I work closely in the areas and focus my highlights and shadows in the area that they would fall.
@@VinceVenturella I tried it and it worked perfectly! I had previously tried the citadel way of covering the skeleton in nuln oil after painting it silver and i hated the results whereas the technique you showed here looks fantastic when finished. Thanks for all of the advice. You've been a huge help in assuring my knight is finished to a standard that i'm happy with.
Great video. Just two questions: what pressure you are using for the ink (my first try with inks and airbrush was not pretty)? And which colors would you use for gold?
18PSI, same as everything else, but you need to have fine control with your fingers and just barely let any air and paint through. For gold, I would use Chestnut ink, mixed with the gold, then gold, then gold with pale burnt metal. I would mix some copper and gold to get a good tone.
Hi Vince what is the masking stuff you use? Your videos are literally a godsend btw! Thank you
Good old fashioned silly putty I bought from the dollar store. Wonderful for quick simple masking. :)
Could you put a yellow glaze over this to get gold?
And do you use vallejo gloss primer under the metal colors?
I have a different video for gold, in general, I would avoid the yellow, it won't really look like gold, it will look more like yellow steel and strange.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks! it's the first one in the recommended videos in the right haha whoops
I've heard horror stories of metallics clogging up the airbrush, due to the flakes. any advice on that? great job though looks awesome.
They will absolutely do so. Metallic pigment is real metal, so it doesn't break down like other pigment. What defines the quality of metal paint is how fine the pigment is ground (it needs to be hyper-fine for airbrush). I have never had this stuff clog on me, Vallejo Metal Color is like magic, there is simply no other acrylic metallic paint like it.
Vince Venturella I have citadel and army painter at the moment. I'll definitely grab some Vallejo metallic thanks
Can you use the Zenithal technique to do a black cloak/cape using black and shades of greyish black? Looking to paint a Batman miniature.
You sure can, my general technique is to do a standard zenithal and then use thin glazes of a dark blue/black to bring it back down slowly through multiple glazes.
Vince Venturella a vid on the subject would be appreciated
Did you do a black, gray, white zenithal before the metallics?
Nope, in this case, it's better over pure black.
Awesome video Vince and perfect timing! I’ve been experimenting with something very similar on my Hallowed Knights Liberators. This is a huge help!
Very curious to hear where you order your Vallejo Metal Color from and if there’s a set? Looks like Amazon sells them at about $10/bottle.
My local FLGS ordered them for me. But the Amazon price is about what they cost, but they are 32ml and they last forever.
Thanks you for your tutorial !
I just tried it and the liquitex ink had a tendency to pool instead of just sticking in the areas i wanted : do you have any idea why ?
If you mean through the airbrush, you need less air/lower pressure. The smooth paint doesn't grip the paint as well, so you want to apply multiple thin glazes at a low pressure. Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much ! It helped a lot
sweet tutorial as always! I know your hatred of most metallic paint lines, I'm beginning to develop the same feeling. A question for you as to that (I may have missed it in a previous vid, but what are you using for gold paints? Im working on Thousand Sons, and damn the gw golds are frustrating to get a good old gold effect.
And what paints would you use for a Bronze or pure Iron (not Steel) look?
I use Vallejo Metal Color Copper and Gold and mix with inks to push the tones. They are far more limited than the steel, but they have a wonderful finished effect that looks like gold. For bronze, I add some sepia and silver to make it more brown. For iron, you increase or add the black ink directly to steel or magnesium to make it look more dark.
oh wow you add the shade right to it? like a traditional wash or an ink? thanks as always for taking the time to reply!
Correct, if you go look at the Weathered Steel recent video, you will see me do this.
i read your reply again where you indicated inks, sorry, long day!
Quick question for panel lining and brush shading: woul thinning the black ink necessary or just out of the pot?
I generally thin it with some flow aid.
Amazing , thanks for the tips!
Glad to help as always. :)
doing this tonight again. last night i went too heavy on the silver.... do you need to zenethil first? can you get away with gloss black primer?
gloss black is all you need.
@@VinceVenturella I used the vallejo metal color gloss black. Went too heavy on the silver so had to redo it all. Was not a fan of oil washing. Spraying the acrylic ink looked 10x better
@@VinceVenturella A Song of Ice and Fire Minis are already on a base so spraying the ink upwards is a challenge
If you had to update this video, would you change anything?
Nope, pretty much the same thing, if you check out the Alpha legion video, that is a newer take on it - ruclips.net/video/55h4vPnQETM/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
how would you go about doing a protective varnish with out ruining the metallic properties of the steel?
I don't varnish it. My basic strategy in most cases is to paint all the matte stuff, varnish, then paint the metals. VMeC is generally tough enough I don't have to worry and I never transport my stuff in foam, only on mag racks, so they don't touch anything or get scratched.
Hi Vince. I know you've been a fan of these paints for ages, but I seem to remember you using an alcohol based metallic paint at some point?
Vallejo Liquid Gold - Specifically the Old Gold. It's a great paint and I still use it some, but it's a great deal more difficult with the alcohol based paints.
Cheers Vince. Have you tried the Scale 75 metallics? They have a few shades from copper and bronze, even black gold, up to gold gold.
I've got their Decayed Metal, it's not rust coloured but a nice dark brown metal, and not too flakey or pearly.
What would be a good midtone between burnt iron and pale burnt metal?
Honestly, just a 50/50 mix of both. That's what I go for with that kind of a jump.
I'm keen to use this technique on my stormcast army, but I don't have ready access to Vallejo black ink right now. Can you recommend any alternatives? Would army painter dark tone ink work?
So any dark matte black would work. You could use Daler Rowney black ink, you could use the Dark Tone, it would just require a few applications since it's a little bit thinner.
Do you keep a seperate airbrush for doing metallics?
Nope, just cleanit well afterward.
what true gold paints would yo recommend?
There is no perfect option, but I use the Vallejo Metal Color Copper and Gold as well. The limitation is that there are FAR less colors, so you have to mix everything to get the right tone.
Depends on how you want to use them. If you're looking to run them through an airbrush, then yes, either Vallejo Metal Colors or Model Air metallic paints. If you're going to be putting them on with a regular brush I personally prefer the Vallejo Liquid Gold series, though something to keep in mind is that they're alcohol based and finnicky to work with; you definitely need to shake them alot, use some sort of palette since you'll need to put the lid back on quickly and securely to minimize the alcohol evaporating and you have to use at least 91% isopropyl alcohol to thin them and clean the brushes you use to paint with them. Also, whatever brushes you use, those are now your dedicated brushes for using the Liquid Gold; you'll never get all the metal pigment out and exposing them to water will cause them to rust pretty much instantly.
Could you replace the black ink with black version of ghost tint?
Yep, that would work just fine.
I have an iron warriors kill team I'm about to start. I have a .2mm and a .3mm (or .35 whichever lol). Do you think I should use the .2 for this technique? What psi do you recommend??
.3mm for this technique, it's not as precise. and you want more space for metal pigment (being naturally larger). 18-20psi is your best bet.
Instead of blakc ink can I use a vallejo black wash?
Sure, washes are less strong, so you may need a few layers of the wash, but it's certainly doable.
@@VinceVenturella Ok, thanks vince! you're a genius!
What’s the best way to clean the Vallejo primers from my airbrush? A lot of people have told me soak in simple green but I’m worried that will damage the o rings in my cheaper airbrush. I want to do this right away but apparently this primer is notorious for gumming your system up. Please help!
So I mean, I can tell you what I do and I haven't really had issues. After the priming (which I never let sit in there any longer than it has to), I flush it with airbrush cleaner (taking off the back and working the needle in and out). I run some normal water through 1-2 times, then I put in a mix of 99% isopropyl alcohol with a smidge of water and I let it sit for about 30 seconds, I back fill, dump the excess into a cup, then blow the rest through while working the needle in and out. After that, it's generally clean and I haven't had any issues. Hope that helps.
Flaps are called pteruges. That scale loincloth is probably called Horror Vacui.
Pteruges/Ptygeres....yah. Horror Vacui? I see what you did there. :D
Awesome, good to know.
not using the inktense black on this one?
It's another option - That ink would work well as it's glossy if you want to preserve the shine. You could also mix a little brown tone in, to create your earth shadows with some inks. There are many options and all are good, in this case, I just wanted something more flat.
Vince, you over estimate me: 'Iron Warriors army you want to knock out in a day'.... it takes me two days to paint one model 🤣
Well, with the Iron Warriors, they do have a lot of detail and bejangles, so between that and the hazard stripes, it does extend the time. ;)
how do I turn this into blue steel and keep it metallic? not liking contrast talassar blue over it. think Lady Briennes armor from Game of Thrones. that blue steel armor.
So, some blue ink like I'm using in my most recent video is really the way I would recommend, I cover some blue steel in that video - ruclips.net/video/GdPeJ367b6g/видео.html
I'm a total airbrush noob. Any recommendations?
Do you mean on brand and such? If you don't have an airbrush at all, then you want to get a cheap all in-one master kit from amazon or something. Something that will give you a compressor and that you can use and abuse and break. You can pick that all up for $80-100 USD.
Vince Venturella ahhh ok. Thanks. I want try a load of your techniques on my new iron warriors.
Thank you for your great content!
I want to tackle my Grey Knights with this technique soon, but I am wondering how I could add a blue shine to the Armour without loosing the shine of the metallic colours. Do you have any advice? Maybe adding some Vallejo Blue Ink to the colours? Or an thin glaze at the end or in the middle?
Ty :)
So you have two options, which will produce slightly different effects.
1) Mix a small amount of blue ink into the mid tone and highlight (Vallejo Blue Game Ink, Scale 75 Inktensity Blue, Metalsmith Blue Ore) and that should give it a slight blue tinge.
2) Glaze with airbrush a small amount of the same inks above after you lay down the zenithal. You would want this to be VERY thin.
Hope that helps.
Ty! I will try it out! Would you go over the second way with the Vallejo metallic varnish?
Those flappy things are called Pteruges
Awesome, good to know. :)
Nice tutorial, but the quality of the video seems not to be the usual one, the colours are yellowish and a bit blurry (especially in the airbrush booth).
Sorry, I have to change color settings between the two places and sometimes, it's hard to get it perfect.
+1 for some gold and copper tut ;)
I will look at doing a part two with gold and copper. ;)
ruclips.net/video/y7Ymw5aQkLs/видео.html
They're called Pteruges
Awesome, thank you, I appreciate that, but I won't remember it. ;)
@@VinceVenturella I get that, and forgive you. Cheers.
I hate you. Now i want to strip all my Stormcast Eternals and start over....
Always happy to help...wait, is this helping?? ;)