Hobby Cheating 101 - Weathered and Hammered Steel
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial I take you through the process of doing realistic weathered and hammered (as opposed to machined) steel in TMM. I show you my method for capturing the complexity of aged, but still in use, beaten steel. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
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Another point about TMM vs NMM is that a camera has one viewing axis but you have two eyes. With true metal your eyes report different colours for the same point on the model-because the model is reflecting different sources at different angles-while with NMM they report roughly the same. In fact, any differences in luminance that you do get in NMM due to specularity are likely to get processed as scale cues (which, if the model is not 1:1, you don't want!) rather than structured reflectance. The percepts are actually different. So there's a theoretical argument that (perfect) TMM is superior to (perfect) NMM for in-person viewing even under ideal display conditions (and the same will apply to lightfield photography, once that's adequate). The reverse is true for NMM in a photograph (at least if it is perfectly in focus), because TMM leaks more information about the (generally unrealistic) photographic environment than TMM.
Well, that's a lot of words for something obvious. It's why online colour swatches for metallic colours are even more rubbish than for conventional paints ;).
And-thanks as always. Your videos are worth multiple watches-there are small details to come back to even after trying the general techniques. It's great!
I feel like I am saying this every comment I type, but Thank you for this, vince!
I tried out the tmm technique on my terminator squad Yesterday and it looks so much better. The colours alone are amazing, I will have to kind of work out the shading/highlighting effect on Bolters as I go along, but I am in love with these colours now. Propably the best Look straight put of the bottle in any paint line I have touched up until now.
That's awesome, I am very happy to help and glad to hear it was working out for you. :)
The problem with your videos Vince is that they're all so useful that it makes my painting playlist so full of them that I can't find the non Hobby Cheating videos... :-/
On a serious note btw,I wonder how I might create a peen hammer effect. Have you ever thought about that look on metal?
I have not, I assume you mean the pitted look of something fashioned by that hammer. I am not sure you could do it at that scale, but it's an interesting challenge.
Vince Venturella yeah that exactly what I meant! Thanks for responding! Maybe it's something actually easier with pewter for once?... ^^
Glad I watched this when I did. I basecoated the metal on my Mega-Gargant Leadbelcher and Iron Hands Steel but I'm going to try this instead. I'm looking to improve my painting game for adepticon so I need to buckle down and do something new.
Awesome, happy to help. :)
I recently picked up those Vallejo Game Inks and man they are sweet! So many uses, though they kind of vary in the pigment density and each color needs to be analysed case by case, wow are they versatile! I love the black and the matte finish is an amazing suprise!
Yep, they're pretty wonderful. :)
Thank you for this, I am super hyped to paint some TMM now! I only have dull aluminium and burnt iron on hand, do you think they will work as well? When I look at color thumbnail of vallejo metal color they all look either bright or dark but all really similar.
So the burnt iron is great for a base. Dull Aluminum is, as it says, quite dull as a highlight. Silver, Chrome or Pale Burnt Metal will do you better. That being said, dull alumnium could work, it would just look a little more dull.
Just looking so good.
I have allways use AK pigment to weathered metal color but this seams to work better.
I ll give it a try.
I have experimented a lot to get to this, but I quite like it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Everyone needs to watch these videos of yours before and after buying Vallejo Metal Colors. This should even be on Vallejo's website!
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
Thank you very much! I was actually just looking for a sort of battered metal tutorial for my upcoming forge world knight project, and this came at the perfect time! thank you!
Hey vince I notice you are sniffing a lot in your recent videos. Do you wear a mask when you prime and airbrush? Even with ventilation its a good idea to wear one.
My guess would be seasonal allergies; allergens have been pretty bad all this year and add to that that a lot of people are allergic to ragweed and ragweed is in its prime blooming season right now and what you end up with is a lot of people sneezing, coughing and sniffling.
You are correct, I can't wear a mask when recording obviously ;) - but yes, we are in allergy season, I apologize, I will try to make sure I watch that.
Another fantastic video. Here is where an affiliate link to amazon with all the metal colors would be good for everyone.
It's an excellent point, I really need to get on that.
Your WW guest this week just proves there are people willing to pay for the kind of content you produce. The amazon thing would just help people get the products you use. Each time after watching one of your videos i found myself on amazon ordering something. 1st was basing paste, then metal color, then an airbrush, I'm sure i'm not the only one.
Do you have any suggestions on good gold/brass/tin/etc. color paints? The vallejo ones are really iffy. The Liquid Gold stuff is a pain to deal with as well.
The Vallejo Metal Color has a gold and copper that are nice, but generally have to be mixed for tone you want. Liquid Gold is the best around, but yes, it is a pain. There is no perfect gold on the market that I have found sadly.
Great Video. The Axe was much easier to see the technique. You got me to buy the Vallejo metallics a couple weeks ago. Really liking them, (I had used the true golds for years but these are much easier) although my first purchases were more on the blue steel side. I am going to have to buy these for a more brownish tint metallic for other models, like my Khorne AoS armies.
Yep, Pale Burnt Metal and Exhaust Manifold/Burnt Iron are both good. Glad you made the leap, they are amazing paints.
I have a goblin dude with a scimitar that I'm playing around with. That middle ridge is a pain for sure. Nice practice for brush and paint control at least.
Yep, that middle ridge is always the tough part.
this was very good! I'm surprised that I havent seen you do one with metal colours and how to quickly put texture into them. it's something i have struggled with a lot in the past! thanks :)
I have been experimenting with this for a while and finally feel like a I cracked it with this style.
Was totally gonna ask for a video on this on the last q&a and you always catch me while im at work. Aah! Im thirilled thank you!
Always glad to help ;)
I've used the metal color a bit bow and I love it. Would it be prudent to do metallics last after matte varnish so you don't get rid of that sheen?
Yes, generally I go last with these (applying Matt Varnish in between) but in this case, I didn't have the model itself done, but wanted to do the tutorial, so I just covered the metal after it was done.
Thank you for such great and detail tutorial. I feel like by improving the light and shadow part can push me up to next level. Will give it a try for sure!
Thank you, glad to help as always. :)
What about other Vallejo metallics? Like 'Old Gold' and 'Gun Metal Grey'? I found those two after trying to follow your advice about the 'Vallejo metal colors'.
Old Gold is Vallejo Liquid Gold, which is a alcohol based paint that is amazing, but very difficult to work with. Gun Metal Grey is Vallejo Metal Color and a fantastic blue/grey/black base.
I've been thinning the 'old gold' with Vallejo 'thinner medium', seems to work alright.
why on earth didn't I think about using ard boy helmets for my brutes
Do you pin the model to the base with only one of the feet?
Yes, for models of this size, you don't need 2 pins. The Brute helmets are a great fit with just a little shaving.
All the brands of paint I want to get but can't, so I use The Army Painter instead
You should be able to achieve the effects, but pick up those Metal Color if you ever get the chance.
Another excellent video! I must give this a try.
Thank you, glad to help as always. :)
I just had a disaster with my metal on my zombie hulk, so I will certainly be using this technique on my next minis. Before I saw this video, I commented on how mush I love the metal work on your orks...and now I can try it for myself :)
How do you varnish without losing the shine?
That's the secret, I don't varnish! :) - In all honestly, no need, I paint all the matte paints, varnish, then do the metallics, done.
@@VinceVenturella so useful! Thank you
Is that a Warhammer figure?
Yep, Ironjawz brute with a Ard Boy head swap.
This is going to fit the look of my World Eater army! Thanks a whole lot!
Happy to help as always. :)
Burnt Iron is my favorite color
I agree with the paint I love it ever since I saw you use it I went out and bought it and I love it
It's just so amazing by comparison, other steels aren't even close.
yet again another awesome video will definately be trying this on my metals soon
Awesome, glad to hear it helps, that is always the goal. :)
I've always been on the fence about picking up the vallejo metal series. I'm pretty happy with model air metallics. How does the Metal series compare?
It's a ferrari compared to a model T. I am going to do a full Hobby Cheating comparison sometime of all metal paints, but the Metal Color really is sorcerery. Smoother through the airbrush, easy to paint, incredible coverage, blends smoothly. It's just amazing. I used to use model/game air (I have tried 16 different steel paints from every manufacturer) and it is the best by far.
Vince Venturella Wow. That is high praise indeed. I've always thought the model air metallics were the industry standard. Guess I'm going to have to order some of these. You did me right with the war colours video so these must be pretty good as well. Thank you sir!
They were for a long time, but these are just so much better. The true metal finish is incredible. These are basically the Alcaid 2 Metal Enamel level quality (or very nearly there), which was accepted as the standard for true metal finishes by the larger modeling community (namely, people who do model airplanes, cars, etc. - where nailing the true metal finish is essential).
Awesome stuff Vince
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
So never tried any blending of any sort ever and after about 5 tries on ork boys I have decent copy, though nulin oil is too runny for this...I just mixed black into dark tone which sorta worked
Sure, I would look at picking up a black ink like I used here. The vallejo is generally available from amazon and it's infinitely useful for stuff like this. Glad to hear it worked out, I think it's a fun technique for sure. :)
I gotta just say, man you reply to all my posts...lol that is not a typical quality. Totally appreciate it man, if you ever plan on doing a tutoring class via patreon, I would be interested. You have an excellent way of explaining things...thanks again.
I appreciate that and I am always happy to help for sure. I have thought about it, but the time is the real challenge. That being said, I am teaching at all the big cons this year in the US, so there is always that. :)
Vince Venturella ah, I need to eventually make it out to con...got a 2 yr old little one makes it a bit difficult to justify with the wife lol
How do the Vallejo Metal Colors compare to Darkstar Molten Metals?
For the steels, there is no comparison. Darkstar is still thick and has some visible pigment. Gold is tougher, as the strength of Darkstar is the range of colors and golds, where as with VMC, you only have basically one gold and one copper, so you have to mix everything.
Ok thanks. decided to pick the VMC up.
STAB STAB STAB
Slightly different technique than badoops. ;)
I love this tutorial! :)
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
hi Vince I have watched all of your videos, and the techniques you've shown have greatly improved my meager painting skills. This is another great video. What Vallejo metal colors would you suggest using to achieve the same effects on bronze or iron armors? thx Scott
Well, bronze is a whole different kettle of fish, because bronze changes color when it oxidizes being some part copper. Pure copper will turn green (i.e. statue of liberty) but Bronze just takes a greenish hue and has the same black. So if I was going to weather bronze, I would likely use some green and black in in the same way here and make the highlights a silver/gold mixture stippled in the same way.
Iron will tend to be the same as steel, it just might have a little more black as it isn't as pure.