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Replacing My Trailer Bearings and Brakes - Part 1 (Parts and Tools)
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- Update - See full blog post including 3 videos - www.loveyourrv...
See the previous video - Checking my Keystone Trailer Brakes and Wheel Bearings - • Checking my Keystone T...
In this video, I detail all the parts, supplies and tools I've acquired to do the job of replacing my bearings, races, seals and brake assemblies on my 2011 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer Model 276RLSWE.
Disclaimer: I'm not a Certified RV Tech or automotive mechanic merely an RV owner learning to do his own maintenance and repairs. Take what I say with that in mind. If in doubt do your own research and/or consult a professional - Ray
Below you'll find the component part numbers and a link to all the tools. Also here is a link to the Dexter Service manual I'm using as a guide for the job - www.dexteraxle... It contains the recommended procedures and specs.
Dexter Axle Parts for my 2011 Keystone Cougar Fifth Wheel Trailer Model 276RLSWE
Dexter EZ-Lube Axle - D44 4400 lbs
Dexter Brake Assembly Part Numbers
23-463-00 Right Hand
23-462-00 Left Hand
Bearing, Races and Seal Part Numbers
Set 17 - LM68149 cone and LM68111 cup
Set 6 - LM67048 cone and LM67010 cup
Seal - 473336
Hub and Drum Kit Part Number
8-407-5UC3-EZ
For Parts and Tools mentioned on the video check out the Love Your RV! Amazon Page. I've categorized them together under the title - Trailer Bearing and Brake Service
www.amazon.com...
Stay tuned for Part 2 where I detail the procedures and steps to change the bearings, races, seals, and brakes. Full disassembly and reassembly.
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#fifthwheel #trailer #RVrepairs
*Update* - See full blog post including 3 videos - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-trailer-bearings-and-brakes-on-our-cougar-fifth-wheel/
Ray an wife. I love you two. I appreciate your step by step and no nonsense approach. On the other side you can be quirky goofy and downright hilarious. You are just good people.
I would love to meet you some day. Char & Tom in So Cal . Lance 1985 with 2015 Tacoma as tow truck.
Thanks. :)
Hey Ray looks good. You have e done a great job picking out your parts and equipment. When setting your pre-load for your bearings and old trick I was taught in my formative years in auto shop and working in a local garage was put everything together tighten your bearings slightly. Then put your tire back on and tighten the lugs. Then grab the tire as the the top and the bottom and wiggle it towards you and away from you. If you have play you have a bad pre-load. Keep snugging up your axle nut while rotating your tire until the play is just gone. That is the way I have done it for decades. On cars too. Never had a problem. You snug the nut then back it off and keep doing that until the play is gone. Only takes a minute once you get the hang of it. That is what I did with my trailer as well. Good luck! This is a good way if your with out a torque wrench too. Sets a nice preload without stressing anything.
Or you could actually use a dial indicator and MEASURE for proper end play of .003-.006!!
Thanks for the tip, here is what the Dexter manual says:
For E-Z Lube° axles using the new nut retainer:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal , rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/ nut assembly should be free to move slightly.
4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one-twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.
5. Reinstall grease cap.
Wow, your new bearings, if maintained, should last a very long time. Good choices on everything. ANY ecxcuse to buy new tools is a good excuse. Kudos for Doing It Yourself!
Absolute wealth if knowledge and an excellent delivery. Fantastic video, much like every other video on the channel
As an x rv tech , i have to say good for you doing this your self.
GOOD JOB!
Thanks! :)
Always fun having a good excuse to get more tools
Sounds like you got a good handle on things and have done your research. Im glad to see you got the quality Timken parts, and now you will have peace of mind knowing how the job was done, and that you can tackle any issues with it in the future. Looking forward to part ll.
Ha! This was my project this past spring on my camper. Felt good to get it done; way overdue on my part. Thanks again for the videos, Ray. Love your channel.
Another great video Ray. It's a good idea to check the hub temps 2-3 times over the first miles ( eg. at the 5, 15 and 30 mile mark) after a job like this and confirm everything is ok. You can check by hand or best is to use your infrared temp gun. Similar temps between all 4 wheels is what you're looking for. Try to minimise your brake use prior to checking the temps as the drums will obviously get hot and skew your results. You can also pick up a cheap set of seal/race installers when they come on sale at Princess Auto or Canadian Tire, or Harbour Freight when you're in the USA . Good Luck.
Thanks, will do. I have an IR gun, I also have a TPMS wireless system that reports PSI and temps, so that should help too, as I can monitor them while underway. Cheers, Ray
Looks like you're all set.
The only thing I'd add is get yourself a few cans (spray cans) of brake parts cleaner. Great stuff for cleaning up greasy parts.
Have fun!!
Thanks, forgot to mention that. Cheers! Ray
Looks like your off to a good start with all those great parts and tools. Can't wait to see that new Ram as well.
Phheew! That torque wrench is a beaut!
The cost of the internet doesn't compare to the savings that are saved. Thanks for sharing the how-to's Ray.
You're welcome. :) Thx for watchin
Very interesting. Thanks. It was good to find out how easy it is to replace the brake assembly.
After the hub goes back on, tighten the nut up and spin the hub to get the excess grease out of the bearings, install a dial indicator on the hub and spindle, you want .003-.006 end play. Once you have it install your cotter pin and carry on with the other wheels.
The axle on mine is an Easy Lube type and doesn't use the traditional cotter pin. Instead, it uses a metal retainer that wraps around the axle nut and snaps in place. Here are the Dexter service manual instructions for reassembly.
For E-Z Lube° axles using the new nut retainer:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal , rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/ nut assembly should be free to move slightly.
4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one-twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.
5. Reinstall grease cap.
Sounds like you have it under control. 👍
Thanks for sharing! Angie is in the background watching you I see. Hope you gave a great video in her eyes. LOL
While you're under there doing the brakes, it's a good idea to check your suspension shackles for wear/keyholes on them and the bolts. When I did the brake/bearing job on my trailer this spring I found one that only had about a third of an inch on one end left. I immediately ordered and replaced shackles, bushings, bolts, nuts, and equalizers. Great piece of mind, because right now I'm in the middle of a trip from Seattle to Four Corners area National Parks and back.
Yup, good idea for sure. I'm OK though as not long ago, maybe a year or two I had all the shackles, bushings, bolts, and both Trail Air Equalizers replaced with brand new parts. Had a lot of squeaking going on and much of it was worn out and egg-shaped. Cheers, Ray
PS. Love the 4 Corners area, have fun!
Hi Ray! Looks like you are well prepared to take on this job. While the 1st wheel you do will probably take an hour or 2, by the time you get to the 4th wheel it will likely only take a little while. Nothing like some experience to make a job go faster. One thing which I always have handy (and you probably do to) is some mineral spirits to clean off the grease, oil and fingerprints from critical surfaces - such as the inside of the brake drum where the brake pads contact. So after replacing the brake assy. and repacking all seals & bearings be sure to clean the inside of the drums with this immediately before re-installing the hub/brake drum onto the axle shaft. You probably already know this but just thought I would mention it.
The other thing which I have learned to do after decades of working on many different autos, trucks & RVs is to use grease on most nuts & bolts on re-assembly. After I have cleaned them I work the grease into the threads. I do this especially on hardware which is exposed to water (such as suspension components) in order to prevent water from causing corrosion over time. I have found that it makes torquing the bolts more accurate and it makes future dis-assembly much, much easier, but the most important reason is to act as a water repellent. Under the concept that water & Oil repel each I have found that whichever is on a bolt 1st will repel the other. So by having grease in the threads of a fastener it will repel any water which may try to work it's way in. Have done this for many years and find that it works great. In fact I routinely do this on most hardware. While some think that this will allow the nuts & bolts to loosen too easily I have not found this to be the cause at all - especially if properly tightened in the 1st place. Besides - do you really want rust and corrosion to be the reason for why a nut & bolt won't loosen? Finally - many torque values are set for wet torques - not dry. On wheel studs I apply a light coating of Mobile 1 Synthetic Gear oil to help prevent lug nuts from rusting on.
The grease I use for almost everything is Mobile 1 Synthetic grease because it will not dry out, will handle very high temperatures, and will not separate.
Anyway - good luck with this project - I am sure it will turn out well for you.
Thanks for the tips, Richard, do you think mineral spirits does a better job than brake cleaner spray, that's what I was planning on using. For nuts and bolts, I usually use Permatex anti-seize lubricant - www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/ Cheers, Ray
Looking forward to your install video, thanks for sharing.
No problem, happy to share. Cheers, Ray
Great info, can't wait for part 2!
Saw your fender skirts there at the last made me think. I had two flat tires within 5 miles of each other on our July trip. The first one took out every screw hole in my fender skirt on the driver side with exception of one. So when I got home I put masking tape over the back and stuck a small washer to the tape. I then mixed up some of the liquid tube JB Weld and put it on the front. Then after that setup I pulled the masking tape off and coated the back. The color is almost exact and they are very strong. So if you have one crack on you give it a shot.
Thanks for the tips. Last year I pulled off my fenders which were starting to crack and beefed them up with SikaFlex sealant and washers - www.loveyourrv.com/cracked-fifth-wheel-trailer-plastic-fender-repair/
Thanks Ray; Very informative!
You're welcome Kevin, Cheers, Ray
I guess I should have said cheers Charles.
Looks like your all set up, prior planning prevents poor performance! Once you're all done take one of the old bearings sets and pack them with grease, wrap them in wax paper and put them in a butter tub. This way if you ever run into an issue on the road you can pop them in and get to a garage or proper place to fix it right. I did this with all my boat trailers. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, good tip!
I did something similar, I have an extra set of Brand New Bearings and Seals as backup. This way I can fix it on the road and not have to re-do the job later.
I have always taken care of my bearings and tried to be prepared. I was on a 600 mile trip riding with a friend, his rig and trailer. We were on the return leg, Sunday morning and stopped for gas. I got out to assist him safely backing up and noticed the right rear wheel bearing cap had come off and the bearing was shot. I believe the tire would have come off had we not stopped. We were able hunt down an auto parts store who was open and bought a new bearing set, grease, hacksaw and a file. We were able to cut off what was left of the outer bearing from the axle and clean it up with the file enough to get the new bearing on, bolted up and finish our trip. My buddy learned how to repack a bearing and I was thankful it was morning and not night! Since that trip i like to carry a spare if I can.
Hey Ray - Another great, informative video - thanks! BTW - send some of that rain down to Central California - it was 97 here today!!
I wish, mid-50s up here with 3 inches of rain on tap!
yep, and Angie for help !
Thanks , Ray!
You bet. :)
Great info Ray. Thanks!
To be fair, you can probably use any type 2 grease if you repack annually, but the lucas is cheap insurance. I noticed that the lucas doesnt separate like the cheaper greases I've used (oil comes out of suspension when cheap grease gets hot). I was suprised to find the lucas at walmart too. From S/E USA all the way N/MW USA.
Ya, I've had the trailer over 7 years and over 60,000 miles and I'm sure they were using a cheap bulk grease, no problems but I figure the Lucas is good for peace of mind, its rated for 500F.
Maybe a little emery cloth will help ya for putting the bearings in to Ray. Just to clean up the hub and any rust on your backing plate on your brakes
Cool, thanks for the tip!
Looks like a great start. I am on the fence about weither to tackle this same project on our trailer. My biggest issue is time. I am interested in the next video to find out how much time you invested in this.
I think I am going use nitrile gloves though. Nitrite gloves sound a little dangerous. (-;
If your truck was in K.C. this week, I probably drive past it.
Angie 🥰💝
Yeah, I kinda know how you feel about international shipping, I ordered 2 1,000 disc cases off amazon, found out they both were coming from Concord, ON CA, which is west/northwest of the canadian/u.s. border, I live outside of albany, ny. the cases I bought ended up going through "Initiated customs clearance process", which happened in buffalo, ny. Obvious reason to why I got 2 1,000 disc cases is because I currently ( September of 2018) have a good 1936 or so disc's. Cost me $167.98 U.S.D equivalent for 2 cases, $83.99 U.S.D shelf price,1000 Cd DVD Silver Aluminum Hard Case for Media Storage Holder w/Hanger Sleeves is the name of the product, if you look it up on amazon, it should be the first result. I also bought another item that supposedly says that it's coming form china, it says it's being shipped using china post, don't know if that means anything.
Nice looking case! :)
@@LoveYourRV :) :D
Too bad the bearing manufacturer wasn't LYRV. Very informative vide
Don't no if you no to turn your torq wrench back to zero after you are done using it. If not it want give an accurate reading. Best to let it set awhile before if it isn't on zero.. Just thought I would throw a little know into the mix. Cheers Ray.
Yup, I know that one but often guilty of forgetting. Hopefully, I can start out fresh with the new wrench. :) I think I should write it on some tape and stick it on the handle for a while, haha. Cheers! Ray
@@LoveYourRV Yea that is a really good Idea Ray... Cheers Charles
What size was that large socket you bought for the nut to set the bearings?
1 1/2 inches I put together a list of parts I used here - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-new-trailer-bearings-and-brakes-on-our-cougar-fifth-wheel/ Cheers, Ray
LOL, every time you grab an object, it looks like Santa Claus is narrating the video. You are wearing a red coat with white cuffs.
I like the coat your wearing, Red sleeve with a white collar around the wrist. Remind you of anyone Ho Ho Ho :)
hohoho! :) It's actually a North Face raincoat. Cheers! Ray
How did you cross reference to get the Timken Races and Bearings part numbers?
I located the official Dexter axle service manual online which was a valuable source of information and part numbers. www.dexteraxle.com/Resources/?type=0&line=4254&family=&keyword=
I was also able to find some part numbers on the parts themselves. SummitRacing.com ,
eTrailer and Amazon and Google search helped me confirm I had the right parts sourced by crossing back and forth.
Very ambitious project which I'm sure you'll succeed in. I've always been curious on the entire process and I'm sure you'll document it better than most. I've watched some videos on Etrailer which are helpful. BTW what's the normal suggested torque rating for lug nuts on any standard travel trailer? I don't have a torque wrench so I've always just guessed when snugging them down with the cross lug wrench that I use. I'm guessing around 90lbs?
Should be in the owners manual. My Keystone Cougar calls for 110-120. It says to do it in 3 stages in a star pattern when tightening after removing a wheel. First 20-30 lbs then 55-60 lbs and finally 110-120. Then recheck after 10, 25 and 50 miles. I think the extra caution is to do with them being aluminum wheels.
Here is the excerpt from the manual:
Check lug nut torque before every trip. Keystone RV recommends this maintenance procedure to ensure
proper torque has been applied to lug nuts before heading out on the road.
• Lug nuts should be torqued to 110-120 ft/lbs on all units except for the Cambridge, which requires 140-
150 ft/lbs. This is due to the use of a 9/16” stud versus a 1/2” inch stud used on other units.
• Always follow the appropriate star pattern as indicated in these instructions or in your axle
manufacturer’s owner’s manual to assure proper torque.
Some wheel assemblies require an extension. DO NOT USE a flexible
extension. Also, DO NOT USE a 4-way socket or any other type of wrench
which does not measure the actual pressure applied to the lug nut.
Note
22 Keystone RV Company Owner’s Manual 5/1/2012
Pre-Trip Procedure
1. Set your torque wrench to 110-120 ft/lbs (140-150 ft/lbs for the Cambridge).
2. Begin with the appropriate bolt for your wheel (12 o’clock position for 8 and 6 hole wheels and 2 o’clock
position for 5 hole wheels, as illustrated) and apply torque to all lug nuts following the star pattern
indicated.
3. Complete the procedure on each wheel. Before moving to each new wheel, be sure to verify your preset
torque wrench value.
Thanks for the super detailed reply. I have a 2015 Fun Finder it's only 22' long and only weighs 4300 lbs completely dry. I just looked in the owners manual and it refers to the correct torque many times but never gives an actual number :( I'll have to do some more digging on the internet but since it uses the 1/2" studs probably 110-120 ft lbs sounds about right. I wish you luck on your project.
You may be able to find a make and model number on the axles. Mine had a tag on them from Dexter. From there you could look up the torque specs if you can find a service manual.
Usually, it depends on things like bolt size and grade of metal its made of and wheel size and maybe aluminum versus steel wheels. A tire shop can usually give you a good idea. Cheers! Ray
I have a Lippert Components 2800 lb axle. Downloaded the manual. They want the usual star pattern done in 3 stages ending up with 90-120 ft-lbs. Now all I have to do is buy myself a torque wrench.
Guess I should watch the video first before asking about Big Blue 2, huh. lol
:)
Where do you order the Love Your RV! mug?
I got it from a new merchandising shop that can integrate with RUclips. I've been experimenting with a few products, ordering them to check out the quality. The logo came out good but the mug is on the small side, only 11 ounces. - Here is the link - teespring.com/love-your-rv-mug Cheers, Ray
What do you do with the "luv your rv " coffee mug? LOL. Are they for sale?
I got it from a new merchandising shop that can integrate with RUclips. I've been experimenting with a few products, ordering them to check out the quality. The logo came out good but the mug is on the small side, only 11 ounces. - Here is the link - teespring.com/love-your-rv-mug Cheers, Ray
Are you intending on having your brake drums turned?
No, I had a shop check out the drum and the surfaces are still fairly smooth and in their opinion don't require turning or replacement.
@@LoveYourRV OK, nothing wrong with that. I've changed brake shoes and not have my drums turned. Can't say it's caused me any issues when I have. Just courious. Best wishes.
Most times I've had a garage change my brake shoes they haven't turned the drums unless they were scarred up, usually by letting it go too long and having metal to metal contact. I think its best not to turn them unless needed as you will be thinning the metal reducing heat dissipation. At least that's been my understanding.
you may want to turn the drums
Yes - new brakes deserve turned drums!
See the previous video - Checking my Keystone Trailer Brakes and Wheel Bearings - ruclips.net/video/vs_34iFcE0g/видео.html