I have a Mantis tiller with that same motor. Despite using ethanol-free fuel, it sat too long. What I dumped out smelled like turpentine, so I figured carb was nerfed. Carburetors are typically my nemeses, so I was very happy to avoid a rebuild by finding a replacement carb on eBay for under $5. Your video gave me the confidence to make the swap myself. It's running like a champ now. Really appreciate your help.
Yeah seems those diaphragm-style carburetors are really intolerant, the slightest bit of gunk and they stop working. Fortunately they are cheap! Thanks for your kind comments.
Thank you for your video. I have this model that I bought new 6 or 7 years ago. I haven’t used it in 4 years. Fuel was left in it. It won’t start. Ordered a new carb of amazon....the cheap one. Watching this before I do the change. Appreciate it!
I hope you find it helpful. Those carbs are so cheap, hardly worth the effort of cleaning and rebuilding them. Stale gas left in the carb is probably the #1 cause of small engine problems, not that I haven't done it plenty of times myself. Thanks for commenting.
Bought a Mantis last year for a bargain £125. All good last season, but then when I filled it up a couple of weeks back and tried to use it again I couldn't get any more than idle before it would cut out. I purchased a new carb and followed your video and away she goes, so a million thanks for your help.
I have the same issue with my FG100 tiller: when engine warms-up, it stalls under a load. Thanks Lawrence, for making the UN-know repair, known, from purchased parts to test trials!
(Fuel is not oiled in this model, but 5% will not hurt), fuel filters get plugged easily. Also on these the stupid original fuel filters screen material expands over time in some cases plugging themselves up. I shave them with a razor to get flow. So have a large syringe to check the flow through the tank tubes and filters. Then check the little filter screen in the carb. These are very sensitive to tiny crumbs interfering with fuel flow. Use compressed air to get everything out of the carb. They like to run lean at higher rpm, rich at low rpm. Vacuum also affects the mixture and speed so air filter should be clean. Adjust the mixture screw while it is at high speed to get the best performance - about 3/4 turn out from seated.
Yes it definitely matters. At the tank end, the inlet hose connects to a fuel filter that sits near the bottom of the tank. The return hose connects to a short stub that drains fuel back into the tank. At the carb end, the return connection is above the inlet connection.
Carburetor was $16, see 2:13, coil was $16 also, so total investment $132. New FG110s (basically same model) are three times that, $369 + tax at Lowes, and you can't even get them, out-of-stock there as well as at Amazon, and almost all 5-star reviews so they must have thought they got their money's worth. As of this morning, only a half-dozen used FG100/FG110s on Craigs in the whole country, the good ones they're asking $275-299. So I think I did OK. We'll just have to see how my cheap ebay parts hold up. But yeah, should have replaced the fuel lines since I had new ones.
The only things I adjusted were the throttle linkage and the idle screw. I checked the shop manual, the only other adjustment they mention is the needle valve and that is only adjusted if you disassemble and rebuild the carburetor.
Good deal?? $100 for the tiller, carb had to be at least $30, (unless it's one of those real cheap one), and $40 for a coil. I would have replaced all fuel lines and filter while I was at it. Yeah... that's a good deal. Keep us posted how long that thing stays running.
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I have a Mantis tiller with that same motor. Despite using ethanol-free fuel, it sat too long. What I dumped out smelled like turpentine, so I figured carb was nerfed. Carburetors are typically my nemeses, so I was very happy to avoid a rebuild by finding a replacement carb on eBay for under $5. Your video gave me the confidence to make the swap myself. It's running like a champ now. Really appreciate your help.
Yeah seems those diaphragm-style carburetors are really intolerant, the slightest bit of gunk and they stop working. Fortunately they are cheap! Thanks for your kind comments.
Thank you for your video. I have this model that I bought new 6 or 7 years ago. I haven’t used it in 4 years. Fuel was left in it. It won’t start. Ordered a new carb of amazon....the cheap one. Watching this before I do the change. Appreciate it!
I hope you find it helpful. Those carbs are so cheap, hardly worth the effort of cleaning and rebuilding them. Stale gas left in the carb is probably the #1 cause of small engine problems, not that I haven't done it plenty of times myself. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for showing this video. I basically had the same problem, ordered the chinese version of the carb and spark plug and it worked.
Bought a Mantis last year for a bargain £125. All good last season, but then when I filled it up a couple of weeks back and tried to use it again I couldn't get any more than idle before it would cut out. I purchased a new carb and followed your video and away she goes, so a million thanks for your help.
Great. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for commenting.
I have the same issue with my FG100 tiller: when engine warms-up, it stalls under a load.
Thanks Lawrence, for making the UN-know repair, known, from purchased parts to test trials!
Big gasket is to protect carb from engine heat
Great. Glad you found it useful. Thanks for commenting.
Wonderful video, thank you.
Thanks!
(Fuel is not oiled in this model, but 5% will not hurt), fuel filters get plugged easily. Also on these the stupid original fuel filters screen material expands over time in some cases plugging themselves up. I shave them with a razor to get flow. So have a large syringe to check the flow through the tank tubes and filters. Then check the little filter screen in the carb. These are very sensitive to tiny crumbs interfering with fuel flow. Use compressed air to get everything out of the carb. They like to run lean at higher rpm, rich at low rpm. Vacuum also affects the mixture and speed so air filter should be clean. Adjust the mixture screw while it is at high speed to get the best performance - about 3/4 turn out from seated.
Hey good info. I need to replace same type carb on Honda weed eater. I never have before, but after watching this i will give it a go. Thanks.
how'd it go?
Thanks! Great video.
Thanks so much. Glad you found it useful.
Thanks
Am bit confused about the 2 fuel lines i understand one is to feed fuel to carb is the other overflow? does it matter which way round go?
Yes it definitely matters. At the tank end, the inlet hose connects to a fuel filter that sits near the bottom of the tank. The return hose connects to a short stub that drains fuel back into the tank. At the carb end, the return connection is above the inlet connection.
Carburetor was $16, see 2:13, coil was $16 also, so total investment $132. New FG110s (basically same model) are three times that, $369 + tax at Lowes, and you can't even get them, out-of-stock there as well as at Amazon, and almost all 5-star reviews so they must have thought they got their money's worth. As of this morning, only a half-dozen used FG100/FG110s on Craigs in the whole country, the good ones they're asking $275-299. So I think I did OK. We'll just have to see how my cheap ebay parts hold up. But yeah, should have replaced the fuel lines since I had new ones.
where can you buy the carburetor?
I got it on ebay:
www.ebay.com/itm/152550075884
Thanks for commenting
Could have used better lighting on the area your working on.
You didn't need to adjust the carby at all??
The only things I adjusted were the throttle linkage and the idle screw. I checked the shop manual, the only other adjustment they mention is the needle valve and that is only adjusted if you disassemble and rebuild the carburetor.
@@quetzal4042 thank you for replying. Stay well.
Good deal?? $100 for the tiller, carb had to be at least $30, (unless it's one of those real cheap one), and $40 for a coil. I would have replaced all fuel lines and filter while I was at it. Yeah... that's a good deal. Keep us posted how long that thing stays running.