How to Balance a Forced Hot-Air System | This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2018
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How to Balance a Forced Hot-Air System | This Old House
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Wow that was awesome thanks for sharing
Thank you to Richard for explaining what balancing the system entails
Thank you, this video solves my issue.
You guys have great content and you guys entertain me for a long time
Best channel ever
Great video! What is the actual name of that 'adjustable start piece'?
I want this man as my neighbor.
I don’t think he’d want to be neighbors with a guy who constantly asks him for help around the house hahaha
Theoretically, after all the balancing dampers have been installed you need to adjust them according to the heating layout that determines how many cfm of air is required at each outlet. A flow hood or hot wire anemometer is needed for this measurement. You can also get vane anemometers that work in conjunction with a smart phone and app. Some of the measure velocity only so you need to convert fpm to cfm. If you don’t have a proper layout, you can make educated guesses based on pipe size, for example, a 6” pipe typically has a designed flow rate around 80 to 100 cfm. Balancing takes time - every adjustment you make could affect others. Put your furnace fan on high speed and take the filter out while balancing. Also, make sure the blower wheel and cooling evaporator coil are spotlessly clean before doing any balancing.
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Dampers are a pain. Removed all of mine. They create resistance and they were all in unaccessible locations. Completely redid duct work and sealed with shurtape and insulated with foam aluminum wrap on outgoing ducts from trunk. Registers have dampers so thats sufficient. Also 2 dampers one on each side of trunk about a foot off plenum division. Well made video as always from toh.
I cant find that adjustable start piece anywhere. Does anyone have a link?
My very old house has slits in the pipe and a piece of metal is slid into the slot (perpendicular to pipe length) to partitially block airflow.
Coming from the east coast to the west coast and only able to have forced air kinda sucks. I grew up with baseboard heating that kept the room warm for a long time. With forced air you feel the difference immediately. My new home's probably has the same size supply trunks for every room. Downstairs (separate zone) is freezing with a 6-8 degree difference to the main floor where the two bedrooms overheat with the doors closed. The developer set the downstairs zone system to blow at least 20% air into the main floor....which is a separate zone. Is that a standard thing? It gets too hot on the main floor. We all know heat rises so why is there air blowing in the other zone when you don't need it. I can't close the dampers because I need them open on the main floor. We were told by the developers heating company we would need to basically heat the house from the downstairs zone due to the 20% being blown into the other zones. Also, we were told we needed to keep the bedroom doors open downstairs to keep an even flow of heat so the bedrooms wouldn't overheat. We've never slept with the doors open ever. This makes no sense.
The problem with these dampers is you need access to your duct work. If you have your ducts running in a finished basement, these options won't work for you. They are great though if they're accessible.
furnace should be accessible. put dampers at plenum
Doesn't adding dampers make your system less efficient unless they are at the start of the run making alot of back pressure unless you have a variable speed system? For you AC it would push more cold air back toward the condenser making it less efficient too.
What about SQUARE [] ducts?
So how do you determine if the system is in balance, is there a way to check the system to know when a balance is reached?
To check u will need an air flow meter. There is a app and a accessory for them to check cfm at ur supply register for forced air systems. All the registers , no matter how far away from the furnace should be around the same cfm. If not call a pro. Ive seen well balance duct work that was plugged with constuction material that came from new and old houses. The cfm fixed after the right professional did the duct clean well and could get to the blockages and get rid of all the long list of stuff people just stuff in the duct work.
my house has 2 zones and an electric motor damper in each run, but one zone is always loud when the air is rushing through it. Can't I adjust the stops on the other zone damper motor, so it always has a little air flow through it and thus the loudness will be decreased.?
Thanks in advance. Dennis the inept HVAC man.
At 2:50 how do you know if the damper is closed or open? It doesn't look like there's a directional connection.
The lever
This is all really assumes access to duct... I have no access to duct and a room at the end of the line with poor return that consequently almost gets no air. I would love to learn ways to mitigate that. I thought about some sort of fan to be installed at the vent opening to create negative pressure and "suck" more air into the room... Does such thing exist??
Yes look up smart registers. They have fans on them to extract more air out of duct. Works for 1 room at a time.
Request for help for forced hot air ducting.I have an England's Stove Works 3000 Sq Ft wood stove in my basement.Using 30 Gauge Galvanized piping you can connect this to a forced hot air system as a supplemental heating source. The warm air supply-duct system should be constructed of materials with a minimum temperature rating of 250 deg. F.....etc....
I do not have a forced hot air heating furnace or any duct work.Currently it just vents the hot air into the basement which is the other option.
I have to say the stove works awesome.It would be great if I could install some duct work to a register in the floor and let the hot air flow into the house, it has a blower, but I wouldn't even need to use it.I have access above the stove to the first floor of my house where I can install a register with 30 gauge duct work.It would be about a 4 foot run from the stove to the floor above.Is the air going to be too hot with the 30 gauge duct touching the wood floor/register at a 4 foot run?Thank you in advance for your reply.Pat
Hi,
I am an electrical engineer. I was thinking about building smart dampers not at the registers, but the one you just talked about. The ones that can be controlled with a mobile application.
I wanted to know if this is a good idea and can be used?
Already been done, bud
What about electric dampers with individual zone controls?
What about your wallet... like
Get it out.
I'm sure they are costly
Totally missed constant airflow regulators
what a pain. i have TONS of vents to dampen.
Dampers rule!!!!!!
Or if your a real tinner you don't need canvise just make a slip connection
Why do you not call them a.h.u
dumb idea 2:44 put zip screws and you wont be able to turn that demper because zip screws will be on the way
Put them on the outer edge of the flange not in the center near the pivot...
HVAC technology has gone nowhere.
Why not do it the European way.
Every room is separately heated.
So no heat for a room that you do not need for a day or 2.
But that works best with a water heating system with radiators.
Saves a lot of your heating bill.
HVAC can be used for heating in the winter and for cooling during summer. A thing which isn't necessary in Europe because the summers aren't that hot (long term view). Of course there are some hot days in Europe, but these are more rare than they're in the US. On the east coast you could use a heating in the european style, or in Alaska.
With my own small 805 square foot condo ( *edit* : home in the USA) as my example > I would want all my rooms conditioned in order to maintain relative humidity and control stagnant air.
Relative humidity affects your belongings, to include flooring, especially wood flooring, as wood 'breathes' (moves). As an example, my bamboo flooring reacts to humidity levels worse than normal wood flooring does; expanding and contracting with an RH variance as small as 3 Rh.
As for air. Having lived and traveled within Europe... Stagnant air sucks! Going into an apartment that didn't air out the room you are staying in prior to a visit blows. Not to mention, if the bedding was within the room as well,... that makes the stay more uncomfortable. If you have a walk-in closet, don't use it for a while, then open the door and take a whiff.
I have humidity and temperature sensors in each of my rooms, plus kitchen. You should try doing the same, and track daily. What you learn about your home will surprise you.
Newer radiators are working mostly with convection, not only with radiant heat. Old radiators worked the other way arround (mostly radiant heat). They're "sucking" in cold air from the floor into the radiator, warming it up, and the warm air is moving upwards out of the radiator. So you've got a slight circulation of air in the room.
805 sqft, that are round about 75 m². That's ok for one or two persons. My entire house has a living area (without staircase and corridor) of 88 m² (947 sqft). But it's an old house built in the early 1950s by my grandparents. I've performed a whole refurbishment. New heating, the central gas heating (natural gas) is creating hot water for my faucets (kitchen, bathroom sink, sink in the guest bathroom), the shower and the bathtub in addition for the heating. I can program it when it should heat water and heat up the rooms and it's sensing the temperature outside and adjusts the temperature of the water for the heating so I'll not freeze. I've replaced the old electrical installation, water piping and drains. And the heating of course. These combined room and water heaters were shown in this show. But my tank has an additional tank with a heat exchanger in it. The tank holds 150 liters (40 gal.).
More like, How to install a damper. No balancing whatsoever...fail.
Good information.. we replaced all our ducts and it made a huge difference.. the old system was not configured correctly.. check our channel out if you’re interested. 😀
Great techie, but he's always in a furry. Slow down and explain more clearly.