One of the main issues all zoning systems have to overcome is trying to vary the airflow volume, when most residential HVAC equipment is constant volume. A true variable volume system has equipment designed to run on a wide range of airflow. There is high end residential equipment that is variable volume, with modulating heating and cooling. These high end systems, with variable capacity work well with zoning systems.
Wooooooooooow. Love finding people who make progress on things and you find it's been relatively around for awhile because I was still stuck on duct dampers and mini splits as the only way to Zone a home
Their controller has to be in charge so all your really need from your thermometer is the off/on and heat/cool and fan on/off functions. The controller is tracking the duct pressure, room temp/humidity to adjust time on/off. Most smart thermometers don't really do much for room to room conditions but they make better guesses based on outside data and preferences.
That's a good opinion, but I gave up on Nest. I bought a Nest thermostat when it first came out because they promised they would make it compatible with Apple HomeKit, but they have broken that promise. I'm still waiting. Any company that breaks their promises loses my business.
@@robsp32 And this guy ran his company into the ground and now these no longer exist. Obviously a poor businessman...and no, it has nothing to do with missile defense....
In the Netherlands we almost all have modulating, low temperature, central gas water heating, with water temperature from 30 to 60c (86-140F) when it is not freezing outside. All rooms have thermostats on the radiators and a central controller in the living room. All radiators are sized per room. The gas furnace is almost always extremely oversized for heating because is also supplies hot tap water.
You should make the outlet sensors so they screw on the the wall plate at the center screw. It will stop it from coming off when devices are unplugged.
Hi Im in the UK where ventilation and AC is beginning to happen, this is 6 years ago!! did this company ever make it ? is there something similar ? any links or info would be much appreciated. Regards
Great video. Thank you. We just bought a two story prefabricated house. They gave us a choice to have one heat pump for the entire house or two separate units. We have one for the first floor and another one for the second floor. I ask you is this really more efficient having two units then just one?
What about the static pressure in the duct or friction when the dampers close? What about the return bypass? Only good for a module home or studio apartment
Excellent points. What motorized register system would you recommend that does not have wifi or internet? I would like to control everything centrally without the internet and would like everything to be hardwired including power and ethernet.
They won't let you close them all or close more than you can. They are a smart system that also keep track of the system to make sure you don't restrict air flow to much.
Really neat idea. The registers are a little ugly. Would like to see something that could take the existing registers, and mount under/OR replace the damper. Otherwise really neat.
Dipul, you would get a lot more respect if you actually had a tiny bit of HVAC experience. Your equipment is not for every house or project. Some homes just need an experienced HVAC tech to summarize their issues and come up with a solution. You are trying to be the next "Nest". I do admire your " Get rich or die tryin" mentality but have a little more respect for HVAC professionals. Some homes, they have the wrong size ducts, clogged air filters, small return duct, etc. and now you want people to believe your product is going to be the magic bullet. You want to get rich off something you don't really know anything about in the real HVAC world.
@@gretzkysyotes How do you install ductwork backward? You should get your facts straight before you throw all A/C contractors under the bus. By the way,jdere31760 is correct and these controls, They don't work too well. he made some statements that are just not correct. So ruin your system. You should fix it yourself too to keep those crappy contractors out of your house.
I’m thinking of just a couple of issues with that type of zone system. They didn’t talk about a by pass damper or a freeze stat for the supply plenum to keep the coil from freezing up. One other thing. I would think that stopping the air flow at the register would cause a noise problem at each room especially with multiple registers closed at the same time. Build up of static pressure. What is the cost verses a typical zone system.
Cindy Brake They explained how the hub is programmed to maintain enough vents open to prevent an increase in static pressure. Very likely the reason why they claimed a professional has to install this system instead of the homeowner.
@@davidcerino1145 bullshit, if the system has to open enough vents to prevent statis pressure build up then it can't regulate the room temps. only way this would work is with a variable speed blower that could be ramped up or down.
@@rollandelliott oh, quite likely, for sure! These are not ideal systems. It's a nice attempt to retrofit an existing system into a zoning system with the least invasive approach, but it isn't without its flaws. That might still be cheaper than trying to upgrade to a communicating zoning system with an ECM blower motor and a modulating outdoor unit, which would provide the best performance. I think they want their special guy to install these systems because of the very tedious adjusting the system probably needs just to work well.
How would this control the temperature if a good number of the diffusers have to remain open at any one time in order to keep the airflow at an acceptable amount? It would work a lot better if the system had a bypass damper, and a discharge air controller that could be programmed to shut off the equipment before it trips it’s internal limits, or freezes up the AC coil. I have put in what are called therma fusers, which are 24”x24” diffusers for suspended T bar ceilings in office buildings. They open and close themselves and are fully self contained. We always installed a bypass system and discharge air temperature controls to prevent damage to the heating and cooling equipment.
Installing dampers in the ducts means cutting into the sheet metal and is the domain of skilled tradesman charging high $/hr. Removing two screws and replacing the register as we see in the video is comparatively much easier.
We have been zoning hot water and steam heat since it's inception. And we have been zoning commercial air systems for years. It is about time to see residential scorched air get zoned.
OMG.... Where can I buy this. I just bought a new home, with 3 huge rooms and a massive master bedroom, large loft, huge living room.... lets just say lots of space. But I can't understand for the life of me how the builder put in a central heat/cooling system that is not zoned. So the rooms are either too hot or too cold with no way of adjusting room by room. I got a $16K quote form an HVAC company to redo the system with zones. And, this issue is causing me to burn through a 500gal propane tank in as little as 2-3 months. Your website is not working, how can I get this system?
Like the dude said in the beginning, if your stuff isn't sized right, no amount of zoning is going to fix the problem entirely. I remember growing up in my boyhood home, the second floor was always sweltering because the house HVAC just wasn't built correctly. If I plopped this system into that house, wouldn't the a/c just run all the time trying to cool the second floor while making the first floor freezing? Without an ECM motor, I can't imagine that this system could keep all the first floor registers closed completely. They would have to stay somewhat open to maintain air flow. I think this system is probably better for homes that are either new and built with zoning in mind, or in houses that are being remodeled. People that expect their drafty, poorly ducted and sized houses to be saved by this system will probably crap themselves when they see how expensive the true fix would actually be.
it sounds like the engineer forgot one thing, most people are saying they need a bypass and that is correct for a non variable Hvac. In order to do it without the bypass you need a designed hvac for variable speeds to not over-pressure the flow. You need a max capacity btu but a variable fan speed. There will still be disadvantages, cost is one of them. size of the evaporator is another. A bypass could also be a good thing if they integrate a water heater into the loop instead of being a separate unit. I don't think current systems will not manage unless major deterioration happens. Plus modifying a hvac system vs designing one from the ground up will be better.
100% agreed but what makes me weird out is that as an IT/Technology professional myself, I would never recommend wireless connectivity as it is not as reliable as connected and if these registers are constantly opening and closing, they will eat through their batteries quickly.
Dipul, the system as shown in the video seems appropriate for a quick and easy retrofit but what about new construction? I wouldn't want these unnatural-appearing sensors plugged into my receptacles. And similar comment to an earlier one... why batteries when it could be hardwired?
use a Variable Air Volume system. it will detect the temp in the room and adjust the motor and pump so that u only get the required airflow and coolant circulation
@@strategygalactic well how many vents do you have? Someone was saying the system would cost them over $4000. Plus batteries and the outlet sensors look kinda bad.
Richard, it’s been a couple years now so I was wondering how you felt about a system like this vs the old type motor driven? Could you point me to any videos you have done on installing the old style for an upstairs downstairs (so I don’t have to keep going down and manually turning them twice a year)!
Have you been able to find a motorized system that does not require internet or wifi? Ethernet is good but not connected to outside internet....Internet of things!
So how do I get this system? Does it save energy or just regulate your home? Closing registers never made sense to me because the heat and or air still goes to the register, so How does that save money?
Travis They never say it saves money except that it prolongs the life of the HVAC unit because it promotes consistant airflow. But the system is mostly to regulate temperature and make the house comfortable, not to save money.
Travis This product seems more about comfort than frugality but it can also save some money. A forced air furnace creates a given amount of heat (hot air) in a given amount of time. If a register is closed and that area is closed (by a door), less hot air is needed to heat the remainder of the house. So the furnace can run for less time. As was mentioned, electronic dampers directly off the trunk are more effective because none of the heat is 'wasted' in the dead end branch. In my opinion, this system would have more promise if it were connected to the furnace (or a thermostat) similarly to how electric dampers are. With this system, from work you could set your living room to be 72 but if you have a traditional (non Internet connected) thermostat and it is not set to the correct temperature, this system does not work.
I really like what I see but I would rather have a thermostat in each room. Apps are great but if you have a guest in the room or a renter you may not want them to be able to control your whole house. Any chance you will convert that little plug in box to also control the temp like the app from the room? Is there a way to give someone control of just one room with the app? This would be especially handy if someone is having a guest. Does your system account for AC systems that have dual fan speeds? My last question is are you going to have any round ceiling vents? I know this is typically a commercial vent but I have them in my home. THANK YOU!
Attention public. You don't need zoning. It causes more problems than any benefits you might get from. Been doing HVAC for more than 30 years and have never seen a zoning system that really worked properly. You are far better off with one thermostat controlling the whole house.
I do t agree had a 2700 foot house had two zones and two thermostats worked great. My mother in law kept her area hot we had air. Now living In a 3750 square foot house one thermostat. Basement freezing and first floor not bad, upstairs hot. We have to keep the air low just too get the top two floors cool and you freeze I. Basement. Any good ideas?
This is good idea, , have a question when these dampers close it increases static pressure in system the return is large bringing in air and now say 3 register are 50% ,1 is 70% how is VS blower going to adjust to airflow, without relief damper to make static adjustment??
I see higher static and more energy consumption by an ecm motor that could lead to problems. A regular Zoned system with a bypass is better and probably less expensive
I dont see the savings. if you are not heating/cooling/dehumidifing areas...you will be taxing the spaces that you are trying to do. how can you not be effecting TESP...and taxing the blower motor
Exactly, especially on a speed blower and single speed compressor setup. They admitted at the beginning of the story that he doesn't have a HVAC background. I see big problems with this setup.
I'm interested in purchasing and installing this system for my home to see how it works...I have been in the HVAC industry for over 20yrs and have only seen amd installed the "old style" zoning systems amd this video has me very intrigued
This is an interesting concept, but the up/down zoning works well for most applications. We had a bungalow with a finished basement on a two zone system. A Lennox signature series gas furnace with a variable speed DC motor (fan ran 24/7), kept both floors at the same temperature year round. This system here would achieve very good results, but a variable speed blower is required to prevent over pressure on low heat/cooling demands. It needs to be considered as a total system when putting this in.
100 dollars per vent isn't low enough cost to justify manually closing each vent. Is this a novelty price or actual cost of R&D plus materials with a slight mark-up for profit?
The other option is to harvest the airflow energy and store it in rechargeable batteries. You'd only need to harvest once in a while and never replace batteries.
You could make your own if you are that interested. Been using this system for about two years and have had to replace batteries in only 1 of my 12 vents. Though using a voltmeter I suspect I am going to have to go through and replace them all soon. My biggest complaint is they should have a NiMH setting so I can use rechargeable batteries. Five volts and more Ah's should work just fine. The issue is they immediately start saying the batteries need replacement. The one vent I replaced is working, but I can't really tell if it need replacement until the vent drops off line.
@@nicalicious3002 Try putting in a multizone system in an older home and you change your mind. Even with R40 in my attic in the summer my bedrooms get hot and if I run my AC for my upstairs then my downstairs are ice cold. BTW, the cost of a multzone can easily be $10K. I spent $2300 and my house is MUCH better room to room. I only wish they had sensors that don't have to be plugged in, a separate battery sensor I could put anywhere in the room. In my house an outside outlet is way too hot or cold and many of the inside outlets are next to cavities with the HVAC so the temps aren't right. The system seems to figure it out but during Spring and Fall there is a bit of a relearning period. Plus if you are going to put a USB outlet in a unit make sure it can do 2 amps per USB plug. This beats the crap out manual vent control during the summer because the sun moves from front to back of my house and I would be running around several times a day adjusting vents. Winter not so much. Costs are lower purchased as a house upgrade.
The register doesn’t normally fully seal them to keep the flow properly that’s why you can’t shut them all otherwise error will activate by the hub and your smartphone will not let you close all of them..
They're not. This thing just closes one or more vents, and at the end instead of the beginning as it should if it is to work at all. But as another poster pointed out, it is gone, out of biz.
It looks rather plug n' play so why do I need a contractor to install it? Can you also give a ball park cost for a typical 2000 sq ft two story house? Thanks. A great looking idea unless it is cost prohibitive.
I think Richard is a personable and generally knowledgeable guy, but sometimes I think he reads from a script that has not been really totally checked out.
One part of this system I'm not grasping. Suppose the original tstat for the system is in the living room. You now set the wireless system to sleep mode and it dampers off the living room. During heating season, the room inherently would get cold, tstat tells furnace to fire but you have now dampered off the register in the living room which will cause that room to heat either slowly or not at all. This then causes an inaccurate reading at the stat that doesn't represent the temperature spread in the entire house. So, you solve one problem with your cold bedroom but created another by having the furnace run longer. A poorly insulated home or inadequate system is very hard to overcome. You're not going to push much more cfm through ductwork that is designed incorrectly. Seems like a neat idea but doesn't solve all the issues. Should be a way for the hub to communicate with the heating and cooling system as well.
What doesn't make sense is before you can "damper" the air to the registers, you have to still fill the pipe, you lose pressure and velocity. Correctly done, the dampers would be at the trunk line and not at the end of the run. There is NO easy fix for a poorly designed ducting system period. These "how to" shows make everyone that has heat/cool issues and a credit card poor suckers. Best advice: if your homes heating and air is not doing the job.... Don't watch you tube videos... Call a PROFESSIONAL with an EDUCATION and not some dumbass with a pickup, toolbox or TV show....
Ron, correct. Think if it this way... the average house has around a 3 ton AC system, that requires around 1200cfm. If you were to install this so that only half the vents open on a call for cooling you would freeze you evap coil (indoor coil), or in heating, your system would bounce off the high limit, this is not a good design. You'll end up spending more money to run the system and you'll end up damaging it. Further more, lets say you have a 3 ton system and you have it setup so your bedroom is one zone. You would be paying to run a 3 ton system to cool one room. it's not cost effective.
Mark Woodworth I agree and you are correct. They skimmed over the topic in this "pretty typical" with this bozo from TV land. He "works" on these systems yet, every manufacturer in the world requires separate drains for heat and cool... Even Goodman... Tho this stem common drains both to one, not to mention not even a little to anyone's code. Maybe the thermostat should just be used and the system corrected. Furnace would tip out on limit and the ac would freeze and thermostatic operation is still based on the the area where it's located... If it's in a zone that's closed the rest of the house would suffer. This system they are selling is a baaaaad idea
After reading all of the comments from the so-called experts on HVAC I have just one question. If closing the supply vents will destroy the blower motor hit the limits in the furnace/ac unit etc., etc, why do I have manual controls on the all the vents in my home that allow me to do that very thing. With the room zoning controls, I can now centrally control programmatically via wi-fi what I was able to control manually.
Your manually controlled registers are never meant to close 100%, they get adjusted at the manual takeoff dampers at the A/H main supply. These auto damper type do. Big difference.
Chances are mostly likely you'd never close all the dampers on two or more floors.... in fact, chances of you closing 50% of all your dampers is pretty slim but having an automated system do this is possible especially if it malfunctions due to inconsistent connectivity. Also remember that closing vents will put back pressure to destroy the blower motor only if done in a LONG TERM fashion.... you'd likely freeze or boil well before letting it get that bad in your home which means you'd open vents.
I am curious about this product, I have an older home that is a split level and there is a big temperature difference between the upstairs and the down stairs. I am concerned that the lines running to the upstairs rooms are actually to small as they are only 4 inch round ducts and of course not insulated. could this help in a case like this where the downstairs gets cold or hot and the upstairs gets hot or cold. I recently had blown in insulation in the attic and I have reinsulated the outside wall and spray foamed the corners.
Dipul, I really need a solution that allows me to pull colder outside air through my home when the outside temperature is less than or equal to the internal desired temp. Perhaps a whole house fan integration with damper controlled fresh air intakes. Opening a closing windows for a whole house fan is both inconvenient and not secure.
One of the main issues all zoning systems have to overcome is trying to vary the airflow volume, when most residential HVAC equipment is constant volume. A true variable volume system has equipment designed to run on a wide range of airflow. There is high end residential equipment that is variable volume, with modulating heating and cooling. These high end systems, with variable capacity work well with zoning systems.
Wooooooooooow.
Love finding people who make progress on things and you find it's been relatively around for awhile because I was still stuck on duct dampers and mini splits as the only way to Zone a home
Guy would make a killing if he would sell this off to NEST to integrate with their learning thermostats and temp sensors.
Their controller has to be in charge so all your really need from your thermometer is the off/on and heat/cool and fan on/off functions. The controller is tracking the duct pressure, room temp/humidity to adjust time on/off. Most smart thermometers don't really do much for room to room conditions but they make better guesses based on outside data and preferences.
That's a good opinion, but I gave up on Nest. I bought a Nest thermostat when it first came out because they promised they would make it compatible with Apple HomeKit, but they have broken that promise. I'm still waiting. Any company that breaks their promises loses my business.
@@TheNameOfJesus That's because NEST got bought out by Google a few months ago after I posted this comment. lol
@@robsp32 And this guy ran his company into the ground and now these no longer exist. Obviously a poor businessman...and no, it has nothing to do with missile defense....
@@ryanroberts1104 you think that Flair smart vents copied his idea?maybe he patented the idea and is a millionaire now?
A great video. Rich Trethewey is smart and articulate, always helping us homeowners to understand.
He’s he’s the best.
i can hear the whistling in the room I'm sitting in now when the other rooms choke off LOL
This is a phenomenal system ... I’ve watched about 20 vids on hvac and all of them were such garbage but this system looks amazing
Just curious. Are you an HVAC tech?
Or a consumer?
In the Netherlands we almost all have modulating, low temperature, central gas water heating, with water temperature from 30 to 60c (86-140F) when it is not freezing outside.
All rooms have thermostats on the radiators and a central controller in the living room. All radiators are sized per room.
The gas furnace is almost always extremely oversized for heating because is also supplies hot tap water.
You should make the outlet sensors so they screw on the the wall plate at the center screw. It will stop it from coming off when devices are unplugged.
THAT was the first thing I noticed too. If they are still in business they probably got that figured out by now :-)
Hi Im in the UK where ventilation and AC is beginning to happen, this is 6 years ago!! did this company ever make it ? is there something similar ? any links or info would be much appreciated. Regards
Wow! They showed an entire video without saying the name of the company??
look at app its ecovent that is now keen
That's what was thinking too!
Exactly not even a link below to view the product
No name, no link, no price
keenhome.io/collections
Here it is and currently on sale. Pretty sweet!
When the main thermostat is not calling for cooling/heating, how does the register or hub energize the cooling/heating for the other zones?
What’s the brand of the smart vent system? Where can you buy it? There’s no mention at all.
i didn't see the interface with the furnace. does that controller then somehow link to the existing thermostat? or replace it?
Where do i fine this product from?
Where is this manufactured ? What is the warranty ?
They are called ecovents! They are linked in the description!
Thank you! I didn’t read the description and went straight to the comments 😂 at least you know some don’t read 😂🎉
Great video. Thank you. We just bought a two story prefabricated house. They gave us a choice to have one heat pump for the entire house or two separate units. We have one for the first floor and another one for the second floor. I ask you is this really more efficient having two units then just one?
Great info. From where I can buy this system? The link in the description is not working.
Thanks.
they probably went out of business because this is mildly jank
Are these products still available?
What is the product name and where can I get it
Yes and ecobee this would be great. Set up some great automations
What about the static pressure in the duct or friction when the dampers close? What about the return bypass? Only good for a module home or studio apartment
Excellent points. What motorized register system would you recommend that does not have wifi or internet? I would like to control everything centrally without the internet and would like everything to be hardwired including power and ethernet.
They won't let you close them all or close more than you can. They are a smart system that also keep track of the system to make sure you don't restrict air flow to much.
Really neat idea. The registers are a little ugly. Would like to see something that could take the existing registers, and mount under/OR replace the damper. Otherwise really neat.
Dipul, you would get a lot more respect if you actually had a tiny bit of HVAC experience.
Your equipment is not for every house or project.
Some homes just need an experienced HVAC tech to summarize their issues and come up with a solution. You are trying to be the next "Nest".
I do admire your " Get rich or die tryin" mentality but have a little more respect for HVAC professionals.
Some homes, they have the wrong size ducts, clogged air filters, small return duct, etc. and now you want people to believe your product is going to be the magic bullet.
You want to get rich off something you don't really know anything about in the real HVAC world.
@@gretzkysyotes How do you install ductwork backward? You should get your facts straight before you throw all A/C contractors under the bus. By the way,jdere31760 is correct and these controls, They don't work too well. he made some statements that are just not correct. So ruin your system. You should fix it yourself too to keep those crappy contractors out of your house.
Where do I get this?
so where can we buy them????
This is great. Where can you buy this?
How do you buy this product
How I purchased this product
Do you need a bypass damper in this case?
I was thunkning the same thing
The link doesn't work. Also does this require smart control for the hvac, and how does this tell the hvac to shut off?
is there an active resource link as Id love to learn more about the product featured..
Where can I actually buy this system?
1 prob...no integration with furnace or t- stat. If register says need heat. Who tells t stat to fire furnace? Did I miss something?
I'm wondering the same thing... What if one room is set to 65 and another to 75? How does the thermostat know to turn on heat or cool?
How do i get it i need help to find this plz?
I’m thinking of just a couple of issues with that type of zone system. They didn’t talk about a by pass damper or a freeze stat for the supply plenum to keep the coil from freezing up. One other thing. I would think that stopping the air flow at the register would cause a noise problem at each room especially with multiple registers closed at the same time. Build up of static pressure. What is the cost verses a typical zone system.
Cindy Brake
They explained how the hub is programmed to maintain enough vents open to prevent an increase in static pressure.
Very likely the reason why they claimed a professional has to install this system instead of the homeowner.
@@davidcerino1145 bullshit, if the system has to open enough vents to prevent statis pressure build up then it can't regulate the room temps. only way this would work is with a variable speed blower that could be ramped up or down.
@@rollandelliott oh, quite likely, for sure!
These are not ideal systems. It's a nice attempt to retrofit an existing system into a zoning system with the least invasive approach, but it isn't without its flaws. That might still be cheaper than trying to upgrade to a communicating zoning system with an ECM blower motor and a modulating outdoor unit, which would provide the best performance.
I think they want their special guy to install these systems because of the very tedious adjusting the system probably needs just to work well.
How would this control the temperature if a good number of the diffusers have to remain open at any one time in order to keep the airflow at an acceptable amount? It would work a lot better if the system had a bypass damper, and a discharge air controller that could be programmed to shut off the equipment before it trips it’s internal limits, or freezes up the AC coil. I have put in what are called therma fusers, which are 24”x24” diffusers for suspended T bar ceilings in office buildings. They open and close themselves and are fully self contained. We always installed a bypass system and discharge air temperature controls to prevent damage to the heating and cooling equipment.
@@rollandelliott then you would also have to use a furnace with a modulating gas valve, and a inverter drive condensing unit
I don't see how this is any better than installing dampers in your air ducts near the air handler.
seems like its easier to install since you don't have to go in the attic and install wiring or pneumatic hoses .etc.
who installs pneumatics today, Alexander?
Excatly plus you need wi fi for this
Installing dampers in the ducts means cutting into the sheet metal and is the domain of skilled tradesman charging high $/hr. Removing two screws and replacing the register as we see in the video is comparatively much easier.
What is the name of the Co. Highlighted are they still in business?
I use keen smart home, much newer technology and works like a charm!
Same company now
@@jbuttleman17 nice, didn't know that 👍
Y. D. If you go to Keen’s website you can see the info for Keen and Ecovent. That website also has the pricing for both systems.
@@jbuttleman17 looks like keen bought them out or keeping keen as main brand after a merger. Thanks for the update 👍
We have been zoning hot water and steam heat since it's inception. And we have been zoning commercial air systems for years. It is about time to see residential scorched air get zoned.
Of course, but within the parameters of static and dynamic resistance permitted by the blower motors in the air handlers.
If the furnace is still running as much you haven’t saved any energy but you will be more comfortable:)
Now that it has been a while. How has it done? Is this still available?
OMG.... Where can I buy this. I just bought a new home, with 3 huge rooms and a massive master bedroom, large loft, huge living room.... lets just say lots of space. But I can't understand for the life of me how the builder put in a central heat/cooling system that is not zoned. So the rooms are either too hot or too cold with no way of adjusting room by room. I got a $16K quote form an HVAC company to redo the system with zones. And, this issue is causing me to burn through a 500gal propane tank in as little as 2-3 months. Your website is not working, how can I get this system?
Like the dude said in the beginning, if your stuff isn't sized right, no amount of zoning is going to fix the problem entirely. I remember growing up in my boyhood home, the second floor was always sweltering because the house HVAC just wasn't built correctly. If I plopped this system into that house, wouldn't the a/c just run all the time trying to cool the second floor while making the first floor freezing? Without an ECM motor, I can't imagine that this system could keep all the first floor registers closed completely. They would have to stay somewhat open to maintain air flow.
I think this system is probably better for homes that are either new and built with zoning in mind, or in houses that are being remodeled. People that expect their drafty, poorly ducted and sized houses to be saved by this system will probably crap themselves when they see how expensive the true fix would actually be.
it sounds like the engineer forgot one thing, most people are saying they need a bypass and that is correct for a non variable Hvac. In order to do it without the bypass you need a designed hvac for variable speeds to not over-pressure the flow. You need a max capacity btu but a variable fan speed. There will still be disadvantages, cost is one of them. size of the evaporator is another. A bypass could also be a good thing if they integrate a water heater into the loop instead of being a separate unit. I don't think current systems will not manage unless major deterioration happens. Plus modifying a hvac system vs designing one from the ground up will be better.
100% agreed but what makes me weird out is that as an IT/Technology professional myself, I would never recommend wireless connectivity as it is not as reliable as connected and if these registers are constantly opening and closing, they will eat through their batteries quickly.
How does it connect to the Furnace?
THIS GUY IS A GENIUS!!!!!!🤗🤗🤗
What’s the name of this product. I see no names mentioned.
Where can I purchase this item? What is the name of the company?
What name that register ?
Dipul, the system as shown in the video seems appropriate for a quick and easy retrofit but what about new construction? I wouldn't want these unnatural-appearing sensors plugged into my receptacles. And similar comment to an earlier one... why batteries when it could be hardwired?
It seems like it worked work great with ecm high efficiency system where it’s program to operate with the amount of zones calling for.
use a Variable Air Volume system. it will detect the temp in the room and adjust the motor and pump so that u only get the required airflow and coolant circulation
that costs over 5 grand
@@strategygalactic well how many vents do you have? Someone was saying the system would cost them over $4000. Plus batteries and the outlet sensors look kinda bad.
that could be zoned?
Can someone please share the name of this product????
Richard, it’s been a couple years now so I was wondering how you felt about a system like this vs the old type motor driven?
Could you point me to any videos you have done on installing the old style for an upstairs downstairs (so I don’t have to keep going down and manually turning them twice a year)!
Have you been able to find a motorized system that does not require internet or wifi? Ethernet is good but not connected to outside internet....Internet of things!
can this product work on a system that is already zoned?
any update on needed bypass???? How to contact vender?
What about installing Variable Refrigerant Flow (VRF) heating/cooling system?
very expensive system
That requires a system to be replaced entirely which is expensive. This also doesn't solve the zoneing problem.
I will buy when they get the pricing corrected. Self installation.
What about the air pressure when one air register calling only ? I think BYPASS DAMPER required for these registers .
will it work without internet???
Wow! I'm sold.
Yes Patel! Have him show you the moneyyyyy!
Sucker born every minute.
So how do I get this system? Does it save energy or just regulate your home? Closing registers never made sense to me because the heat and or air still goes to the register, so How does that save money?
Travis They never say it saves money except that it prolongs the life of the HVAC unit because it promotes consistant airflow. But the system is mostly to regulate temperature and make the house comfortable, not to save money.
Travis
This product seems more about comfort than frugality but it can also save some money.
A forced air furnace creates a given amount of heat (hot air) in a given amount of time. If a register is closed and that area is closed (by a door), less hot air is needed to heat the remainder of the house. So the furnace can run for less time.
As was mentioned, electronic dampers directly off the trunk are more effective because none of the heat is 'wasted' in the dead end branch.
In my opinion, this system would have more promise if it were connected to the furnace (or a thermostat) similarly to how electric dampers are.
With this system, from work you could set your living room to be 72 but if you have a traditional (non Internet connected) thermostat and it is not set to the correct temperature, this system does not work.
@@Maxid1 It does the opposite of prolonging the life of a HVAC system.
Take my money!!!
What is the name of the system? I'll like to look into it some more. Looks like something that will work great for me.
www.ecoventsystems.com/
Now combine this with nest
What is the company name? What is it called? Where can you buy?
Wonder what this does to static pressure when several vents are closed off but the system is still running
The hub will preserve airflow via programming.
You wonder that, do you? Smart guy.
This system works with any forced air furnace?
I really like what I see but I would rather have a thermostat in each room. Apps are great but if you have a guest in the room or a renter you may not want them to be able to control your whole house. Any chance you will convert that little plug in box to also control the temp like the app from the room? Is there a way to give someone control of just one room with the app? This would be especially handy if someone is having a guest. Does your system account for AC systems that have dual fan speeds? My last question is are you going to have any round ceiling vents? I know this is typically a commercial vent but I have them in my home. THANK YOU!
Where can I get these new registers?
This videos should be titled, "how to piss off your hvac service tech & kill your compressor"
What about the Suction vents?
Attention public. You don't need zoning. It causes more problems than any benefits you might get from. Been doing HVAC for more than 30 years and have never seen a zoning system that really worked properly. You are far better off with one thermostat controlling the whole house.
Agreed. Zoning is for big buildings, not an average house. Complete waste here.
@@gangisspawn1 Yep , Last week I was in a house working on a zone system that was only 2.5 tons. And I am just shaking my head.
I do t agree had a 2700 foot house had two zones and two thermostats worked great. My mother in law kept her area hot we had air. Now living In a 3750 square foot house one thermostat. Basement freezing and first floor not bad, upstairs hot. We have to keep the air low just too get the top two floors cool and you freeze I. Basement. Any good ideas?
This is good idea, , have a question when these dampers close it increases static pressure in system the return is large bringing in air and now say 3 register are 50% ,1 is 70% how is VS blower going to adjust to airflow, without relief damper to make static adjustment??
yep, the fan works just as hard to try and force air through ducts that are closed.
only way system wont work as hard is if it is closed off before airflow enters the ducts
Any way to integrate it with smartthings? If not, I think your market will greatly expand if you make the individual registers compatible.
I see higher static and more energy consumption by an ecm motor that could lead to problems. A regular Zoned system with a bypass is better and probably less expensive
Ulises Palacios this old house doesn't research anything it seems before promoting it.
Joe Shearer true lol
Yeah, when I first saw them, I dismissed them immediately.
These things will be terrible for most systems.
I dont see the savings. if you are not heating/cooling/dehumidifing areas...you will be taxing the spaces that you are trying to do. how can you not be effecting TESP...and taxing the blower motor
Exactly, especially on a speed blower and single speed compressor setup. They admitted at the beginning of the story that he doesn't have a HVAC background. I see big problems with this setup.
Very cool
What is more effective, these or the electric dampers that go in the ducts?
They still make that wind noise when one vent is close.
are you using esp8266 (or similar) chips?
Would like them to retrofit a variable fan control to the furnace as part of their system.
Are there any hvac zone systems that are easy to control with a smart phone?
Now that's a neat idea
Where can I pus chase this product
"Pus chase" 😆
Link to the product? Or name at least?
I'm interested in purchasing and installing this system for my home to see how it works...I have been in the HVAC industry for over 20yrs and have only seen amd installed the "old style" zoning systems amd this video has me very intrigued
This is an interesting concept, but the up/down zoning works well for most applications. We had a bungalow with a finished basement on a two zone system. A Lennox signature series gas furnace with a variable speed DC motor (fan ran 24/7), kept both floors at the same temperature year round. This system here would achieve very good results, but a variable speed blower is required to prevent over pressure on low heat/cooling demands. It needs to be considered as a total system when putting this in.
Loved it, Awesome Video.
that's very cool ,make the job is very easy.
I can imagine all kinds of room to room pressurization issues in the home with supply/returning balancing
It would be nice if you could hardwire it with a transformer instead of using batteries.
100 dollars per vent isn't low enough cost to justify manually closing each vent. Is this a novelty price or actual cost of R&D plus materials with a slight mark-up for profit?
The other option is to harvest the airflow energy and store it in rechargeable batteries. You'd only need to harvest once in a while and never replace batteries.
You can use a transformer. You need to be able to convert the ac into dc using some sort of rectifier. It's more work than what it's worth.
You could make your own if you are that interested. Been using this system for about two years and have had to replace batteries in only 1 of my 12 vents. Though using a voltmeter I suspect I am going to have to go through and replace them all soon. My biggest complaint is they should have a NiMH setting so I can use rechargeable batteries. Five volts and more Ah's should work just fine. The issue is they immediately start saying the batteries need replacement. The one vent I replaced is working, but I can't really tell if it need replacement until the vent drops off line.
@@nicalicious3002 Try putting in a multizone system in an older home and you change your mind. Even with R40 in my attic in the summer my bedrooms get hot and if I run my AC for my upstairs then my downstairs are ice cold. BTW, the cost of a multzone can easily be $10K. I spent $2300 and my house is MUCH better room to room. I only wish they had sensors that don't have to be plugged in, a separate battery sensor I could put anywhere in the room. In my house an outside outlet is way too hot or cold and many of the inside outlets are next to cavities with the HVAC so the temps aren't right. The system seems to figure it out but during Spring and Fall there is a bit of a relearning period. Plus if you are going to put a USB outlet in a unit make sure it can do 2 amps per USB plug. This beats the crap out manual vent control during the summer because the sun moves from front to back of my house and I would be running around several times a day adjusting vents. Winter not so much. Costs are lower purchased as a house upgrade.
question for how much they sale ...
and where I can get
The register doesn’t normally fully seal them to keep the flow properly that’s why you can’t shut them all otherwise error will activate by the hub and your smartphone will not let you close all of them..
A closed register "whistling" TO the HVAC graveyard? The sound will actually be your system screaming for help.
You should add a bypass to the furnace
How are you diverting the airflow?
They're not. This thing just closes one or more vents, and at the end instead of the beginning as it should if it is to work at all. But as another poster pointed out, it is gone, out of biz.
What is the name of the company who installs or sells this zoning units?
Super cool tech!
It looks rather plug n' play so why do I need a contractor to install it? Can you also give a ball park cost for a typical 2000 sq ft two story house? Thanks. A great looking idea unless it is cost prohibitive.
Systems start at $2500 installed
@@blueribb99 and now gone gone gone
I think Richard is a personable and generally knowledgeable guy, but sometimes I think he reads from a script that has not been really totally checked out.
@@replyhere590 what do you mean gone, no longer available?
3800 for the 2500 square ft bundle on the ecovent site woof
One part of this system I'm not grasping. Suppose the original tstat for the system is in the living room. You now set the wireless system to sleep mode and it dampers off the living room. During heating season, the room inherently would get cold, tstat tells furnace to fire but you have now dampered off the register in the living room which will cause that room to heat either slowly or not at all. This then causes an inaccurate reading at the stat that doesn't represent the temperature spread in the entire house. So, you solve one problem with your cold bedroom but created another by having the furnace run longer. A poorly insulated home or inadequate system is very hard to overcome. You're not going to push much more cfm through ductwork that is designed incorrectly. Seems like a neat idea but doesn't solve all the issues. Should be a way for the hub to communicate with the heating and cooling system as well.
zimsjeep m
you would disable the original t-stat.
What doesn't make sense is before you can "damper" the air to the registers, you have to still fill the pipe, you lose pressure and velocity. Correctly done, the dampers would be at the trunk line and not at the end of the run. There is NO easy fix for a poorly designed ducting system period. These "how to" shows make everyone that has heat/cool issues and a credit card poor suckers. Best advice: if your homes heating and air is not doing the job.... Don't watch you tube videos... Call a PROFESSIONAL with an EDUCATION and not some dumbass with a pickup, toolbox or TV show....
Ron, correct. Think if it this way... the average house has around a 3 ton AC system, that requires around 1200cfm. If you were to install this so that only half the vents open on a call for cooling you would freeze you evap coil (indoor coil), or in heating, your system would bounce off the high limit, this is not a good design. You'll end up spending more money to run the system and you'll end up damaging it. Further more, lets say you have a 3 ton system and you have it setup so your bedroom is one zone. You would be paying to run a 3 ton system to cool one room. it's not cost effective.
Mark Woodworth I agree and you are correct. They skimmed over the topic in this "pretty typical" with this bozo from TV land. He "works" on these systems yet, every manufacturer in the world requires separate drains for heat and cool... Even Goodman... Tho this stem common drains both to one, not to mention not even a little to anyone's code. Maybe the thermostat should just be used and the system corrected. Furnace would tip out on limit and the ac would freeze and thermostatic operation is still based on the the area where it's located... If it's in a zone that's closed the rest of the house would suffer. This system they are selling is a baaaaad idea
After reading all of the comments from the so-called experts on HVAC I have just one question. If closing the supply vents will destroy the blower motor hit the limits in the furnace/ac unit etc., etc, why do I have manual controls on the all the vents in my home that allow me to do that very thing. With the room zoning controls, I can now centrally control programmatically via wi-fi what I was able to control manually.
Your manually controlled registers are never meant to close 100%, they get adjusted at the manual takeoff dampers at the A/H main supply. These auto damper type do. Big difference.
Chances are mostly likely you'd never close all the dampers on two or more floors.... in fact, chances of you closing 50% of all your dampers is pretty slim but having an automated system do this is possible especially if it malfunctions due to inconsistent connectivity. Also remember that closing vents will put back pressure to destroy the blower motor only if done in a LONG TERM fashion.... you'd likely freeze or boil well before letting it get that bad in your home which means you'd open vents.
I am curious about this product, I have an older home that is a split level and there is a big temperature difference between the upstairs and the down stairs. I am concerned that the lines running to the upstairs rooms are actually to small as they are only 4 inch round ducts and of course not insulated. could this help in a case like this where the downstairs gets cold or hot and the upstairs gets hot or cold. I recently had blown in insulation in the attic and I have reinsulated the outside wall and spray foamed the corners.
Yes Daniel,
Buy ecovent first, then we will help you fix all your other problems.
Trust us..........please.
Dipul, I really need a solution that allows me to pull colder outside air through my home when the outside temperature is less than or equal to the internal desired temp. Perhaps a whole house fan integration with damper controlled fresh air intakes. Opening a closing windows for a whole house fan is both inconvenient and not secure.