2021 Mach 1 Break In Complete - First Oil Change Surprises
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- 2021 Mach 1 Break In Complete - First Oil Change Surprises. Today I completed the 1000mi break in of my 2021 Mustang Mach 1 after owning the car for 3wks. Along the way there were some surprises including a bit of oil consumption and a random coolant leak. In this video I cover what to expect during your first 1000 miles, what to keep a close eye on, and what makes the 2021 Mach 1 different from other 2018+ Ford Mustang GTs when it comes to general maintenance.
This is an older video...but still VERY useful, thanks for posting. My 2023 Dark Matter Mach1 has 330miles and I am breaking in the engine just like you recommend and describe, thanks! I hear there is "a lot of fun waiting above 4,500RPM, but I wouldnt know! (actually she's been punched a few times up above 6, but like you, I havent seen redline). 1,000 mile oil change and inspection for sure AND a catch-can even earlier than that (will go with FOMOCO Pax-side setup from the Dealer). Great videos.
I would add an oil catch can. You can either go aftermarket or Ford performance. It’s listed as an air oil separator. I enjoy your videos.👍
Trust me with the future plans I have for this car its going to need two of them. They are on the list
I installed one J&L catch can on my '19 GT passenger side and it does indeed catch the crankcase back pressure oil vapors and condenses them in the can. I normally drain the can about once per month (if I think about it). The catch can prevents the oil vapors from being returned to the intake tube which can dilute the gasoline and decrease the fuel octane percent. Currently about $159 at American Muscle.
Great information in the vid, thanks for making it. I've been eyeballing the Mach 1 for a while now trying to make up my mind if I want to get one. This oil change has me on edge. Why engineers make things so difficult & messy is beyond me, maybe they aren't "car guys"?! Comments have also been very helpful. Thanks
My question is, how difficult was the clean-up of drips/spills on other components? I am certain this is not something a mechanic would do for you which means changing my own again.
Honestly the oil changes arent too bad. The plastic drain plug means no tools or torque wrench are required so that step goes quicker. In terms of spillage I recall it being a similar story with my last 5.0 in 2013. I suspect next time I will try and get sneakier with a makeshift funnel. Otherwise just snag some brake clean and rinse of the areas where it dripped and dry with a rag.
I got a 2020 Mustang GT. When I did my first oil change at 2,500 miles, I swapped out the OEM plug for the Ronin one. With the Ronin, you aren't worried about replacing o-rings and it allows for a more controlled release of oil. In my owner's manual, 5-30w is recommended for the Mustang GT if you bring it to the track.
2021 mustang gt now recommends 5w-30 with basically the same engine as the 2020.
Thanks!!! Simple and useful information to know. Although I won't do it myself since I don't even know how to hold a screwdriver. I am ordering mine in January, haven't decided yet if it is going to be white or iconic silver.
Personally, I would opt for the silver. It hides the dirt better.
@@AStanton1966 Thanks, I did, I ordered in iconic silver. Besides hiding the dirt it also highlight the accents. Ford says it will be about 3 months maximum to deliver..
@@ralphluces4965 I wouldn't want to be in your shoes--the wait would kill me! Good luck with the new ride. I heard that Ford is dumbing down the ponies in a Mustang next year.
@@AStanton1966 the wait its fine, I will safe some more money to put it into the down payment. I heard so too, about dumping down the ponies, that is even better for this just one year model, 2021. The car market its crazy, sold my lease on the QX50 Red Sport back to Infiniti for $2K over the payoff, that is why I placed the order now instead of January as I had planned.
Excellent introduction to the DIY maintenance of your Mach I. I appreciated your observations and your thoughtful recommendations of things to watch out for. Odd that the Ford engineers didn't incorporate a horizontally-mounted delivery for the oil filter; it would have made spilling oil a non-issue during routine maintenance! Now that you've got your first 1,000 miles behind you, I'm sure you'll have ample opportunity to learn the capabilities of your Mach I. Enjoy!
2:10 the only Ford Tech I trust to personally work on my vehicle told me wait at least 20 minutes as these engines have lots of baffles and it takes that long for it to drain back down. He said otherwise it’ll be “low” every time.
@TruckandRoll can you do a vid of where you jacked up the car and where to put the jackstands safely?
I drive a 2019 Mustang GT 5.0L Coyote with the 10R80 auto transmission. The Ford owners manual recommends 5W20 oil for daily driving; however, for track the manual recommends 5W30 oil. (SAE 5W20 meeting Ford spec WSS-M2C945-A daily driver or 5W30 meeting WSS-M2C946-A for track)
Weird my 2021 gt asks for 5w30 in the manual for daily
Geat video Thanks. if you want to see if there are any metal particles in the oil, you have to cut the oil filter, as its role is to capture dirt.
Just did this on my 2020 GT. I thought the filter size was weird too. I also lost about a quart first 3000 miles. My filter was tight as hell, had to go by a smaller wrench, I only had a larger one. Buy yourself the jacking rails, they are awesome and make life so much easier. Also buy some replacement yellow drain plugs, those tabs break off easy and the replacements dont have a grip handle for your hand, they use a square socket extension to loosen and tighten which is better. As it stands, if someone could squeeze their arm under your car, they could basically drain your oil with no tools...not good IMO.
About 14 oz between the bottom dot and the top. My car for the first three thousand miles consumed just about a half quart per thousand and then dropped way off to like 8-10 oz per 1,500. It now has 5,200 miles since June as I can’t stop driving it even though it’s going away in just another week or two.
Two reasons I subscribed...
One: Mustache...grade: 8.2 out of 10
Two: You own a Mustang and work on it yourself, then upload content here
Well done, sir. Please keep the content coming. Thank you.
*Me sitting here with a beard and no more mustache 🤓….shiiiiiiiit
@@truckandroll989 LOL! ok ok, three reasons,
Three: Respond to silliness I posted on YT!
Where did you lift from to get the front lifted all at once? with that cover in the way it’s hard to tell
I bought my Nissan 370Z new and babied the engine for the first 4K miles; gentle acceleration, revs not above 3500 rpm, oil changes at 100 mi, 300 mi, 700 mi, 1500 mi, 3K mi and then to normal oil change intervals of 3K miles after that point. I never put the engine underload on a cold start until the oil temp gets close to 140 deg F and then I keep revs below 2500 until the oil gets to 180 deg F. The result has been that the car took a long time to fully break in, about 15K miles. My oil consumption during that period was about 3 oz per 3K miles. After 15K miles there is no discernable oil drop on the dipstick at the 3K oil change mark. My polished stainless steel exhaust tips show hardly any soot build up, or any other kind of combustion residue. It was worth it to me to take the time to break the engine in gently and see that it's running cleanly and quietly.
Ford recommends NOT lubricating the oil filter ring btw! Keep it dry. Has to do with vibration.
For real though, You’re trolling aren’t ya?
If you put it on dry and it melts to block, I guess it wouldn't vibrate loose.
@@AStanton1966 Oh, is it the reason why there’s so much filter coming loose? The small factory filter came loose on mine. But haven’t got that issue with the fl500s, that I just hand tight,
@@jpogigtxcr1778 I don't know about Mustangs. However, I'm here to say I had a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 WT pick up with a 4.3 6-cylinder. I couldn't keep an oil filter tight on that thing to save my life. It didn't matter how hard I tightened it or what filter I used. I traded that truck for a 2017 Silverado LTZ with a 5.3. Best move I ever made.
Nice video. Like seeing the motorcraft oil and filter used.
Agreed. I got some flack for not using “full synth” but I can say after another couple thousand miles the computer wants me to change much sooner than anticipated. In my
opinion this may be a case to utilize the regular motorcraft semi synth or mobil 1 full synth 5w-30 since its often for sale cheaper. Im at 3900mi and its down to 33% oil life after changing at the first 1k miles. I can foresee myself changing every 3500mi if it continues and 10qts aint cheap ;)
Very nice car. Wish I could afford a Mach 1 but I'm comfortable with my 2015 mustang gt. Liked the video you posted. Mine too has that yellow plastic oil drain plug. Keep forgetting to change it out to a metal one. Thanks for the video. Hope you video record of taking it to the race track.
Check out this playlist. The car is twin turbo’d now with nearly 1000rwhp. Plenty of track videos too (drag, road course, roll racing, etc.)
2021 Mach 1
ruclips.net/p/PL6ndNXE7Njaf_9GNn6RW1CAckvwQ6EX1f
When I work on Porsche Cayennes or VW Touaregs the filter is in a horrible spot worse than the Mach 1. I use some folded up pigmats to act as a funnel and absorber, you should give it a shot next time, much cleaner. Nice video.
Great video, just did the my.mach 1 first change at around thousand miles as well. A little dirtier than expected. I searched the owners manual and it states to use what you used, the synthetic blend so I went and picked up 10 quarts at Walmart.
The car shipped with synthetic blend so I'm glad I checked, but with my luck the plastic oil plug broke on one of the hinges, luckily, I had a replacement.
Dang thats annoying. That is really my only pet peeve is i dont feel the plastic drain plug seals well. Glad you read your owners manual. Had a lot of people bashing me on oil choice and whatnot.
The full synthetic is not hard to find. Your local Ford or Lincoln dealer has it. I would recommend always using full synthetic in that type of vehicle
I don't think less than a quart burnt off during break in is anything to worry about. My guess, the rings are now seated and you should have minimal blow by going forward. However, that plastic drain plug after a couple seasons of heat cycles would have me concerned. Maybe there's an aftermarket upgrade?
Yea i haven’t seen a drop of oil consumption since even after an hour long track session. Ill probably swap out the drain plug during the next oil change
On my 550, they left the fasteners for the battery cover off from the factory.
That’s frustrating. I havent been blown away by the build quality but the motor and trans are solid so i cant complain
Great video. Question --- My 2023 Mustang Mach 1 has a plastic tray underneath the front covering pretty much the entire oil pan (just like in your video at the 5:55 time-mark)... So I cannot see where the strong jack point/points are. Do you have a trick as to how deep to push the floor jack to get it to the correct position?
It’s been a long time since I had the tray back on my car, but I would almost recommend taking the tray off one time marking where the Jack support is (lower k member) and then transferring that to the tray itself for future reference
@@truckandroll989
I used to be a Jeep Wrangler guy with a 3.5-inch lift and 38s tires. would roll on four Rhino Ramps and could almost sit under the Jeep. Now this thing (2023 Mustang Mach 1) is like 4 inches from the ground. without jacking this thing into the air, I cannot see what's going on underneath... I found a diagram on the internet showing that the jack point is almost in line with the center of the front wheel... does that sound right to you?
Thanks again. Stay safe and have a great day!
---Peter
@@mallakiNY yes that sounds about right. To be safe you may want to drive it up on a few 2x4s so you can inspect better by eye. Its got a jack point but if you were to miss it you are going through that composite oil pan 😂
I’m late to the party, but nice video. I bought a set of race ramps for oil changes on my GT. Makes things super easy.
Yea i wound up getting a smoking deal on a 4 post lift so no more cumbersome jack and stands for me 😎
thanks for the vid.. picked up a mach 1 about a month ago with about ~7k miles on it. going to change the oil here shortly.. that filter location is BALLS. going to make a g'damn mess and all over that wiring.. lol :). might need to find an oil filter wrench similar to yours, mines not going to work up there.
This is a good video that young kids should watch on oil changing
Maybe their dad should actually be a dad and teach them?
@@TonicofSonic yeah there are a lot of fathers that sadly don’t choose to be dads in many kids lives
Add a zip lock on the filter so when it pours it won’t make a mess
I'm wondering if it's possible to find a similar plastic drain plug with a magnetic tip. I'll be hunting that down after I watch this vid. It's likely that it isn't available yet. I'm also curious as to whether there is an adapter that allows the filter to be mounted more perpendicular to the deck, so spilling oil is less likely. If not, I may be opting for a remote double filter/oil cooler located at a more convenient location.
I believe there is a company who makes a quick drain plug with a valve and possibly a magnet which is supposed to work well. I just changed my oil the other day after 2900mi on the twin turbocharged setup and I really hate the plastic drain plug
Mine has like 700 miles and I drive it fast off the line every once in a while. I don't think I'm beating on it, but I get tired of the break in persiod thing after a couple hundred miles. One problem with breakin, is that people beat on these things when they test drive so unless it just came off the truck, it's been beaten a little with breakin.
Don’t lube the filter per Ford notes. Has to go on dry so it doesn’t vibrate loose.
Read the notes further. The “torque” spec they call for is minuscule - essentially uncheckable even with a standard inch pound torque wrench. The vibration issue was a problem with the FPC 5.2 and not the 5.0. Furthermore there will always be oil residue on the mating surface of the block even if you were to spin on a completely dry filter. There is no difference in a standard 5.0 and any of the last 70yrs of V8s. Lube the gasket or dont, whichever you prefer, screw it on until it bottoms out then add another 3/4 of a turn or so. Beyond that you are overthinking it.
Great Video. Love the new Mach1’s. I have a 2021 Mustang Gt, base model with mt82 manual trans. My car asks for 5w30 not 5w20. I’m guessing they changed that for the 21’s.
So in my experience the viscosity is typically tied to clearances, how the car will be operated, etc. I doubt by 2013 Track Pack car had different clearances than say a standard 2013 GT and thus it requiring 5w-50 would have been safe in either model. Similarly I bet you could run 5w-30 or even 5w-50 without damaging anything in your 2021 GT. If anything you might see lower mpg with the higher viscosity but preferable protection if you were tracking your car. The Mach 1 supplement to the owners manual discusses drastically increasing the frequency of oil changes following a track day. I am just happy it isnt 5w-50. That stuff is $$ and has to be ordered vs. easily picked up in stores
Just did oil change at 1,033 miles. Checked oil before change and it was at the lower mark. I installed passenger side catch can when the car had 11 miles. It had about 1/2 ounce of oil in it. I'm 63 yo and have done many oil changes on many different cars. This was by far the worst for mess. I tried your method with the cardboard lined with foil and that helped but feel this car will be dripping oil from various points for awhile. I cleaned up at much as I could. Oil filter was only hand tight and came off easy. I did not oil the new filter and tightened pretty tight. Ford Boss Me had a video about cranking the car in flood mode to fill the oil filter before start and that worked. Push fuel pedal to floor and push starter for 15 seconds. Then do a normal start. It seems to work.
Thanks for watching and your feedback. It is a shame that the aluminum boss the filter threads into couldn’t have been made to place the filter vertically. It wouldn’t totally fix the mess but would allow you to easily
Pre fill the filter. I watched for oil pressure on startup without cranking it in flood mode and it built pressure immediately (i also pre filled the filter). I came back after a few weeks last night and checked the filter for tightness. It was super tight with no visible leaks around the filter. However i guess i hadn’t cleaned up all the oil initially which startled me at first when i saw it on the plastic shield. Im not totally buying into the dry install of the filter. I think the majority of issues with filters vibrating loose were either the more rattle prone GT350 or someone who just didnt put the filter on all the way correctly the first time. I will most likely continue to lightly dab on a bead of oil but ensure the filter is snug plus 180 degrees
My 2021 gt specifies 5w-30 in the manual. Also they did away with the small window access door. Now it's a larger panel you remove.
Oil consumption happens with Coyotes when you baby them early. The best bet is to hammer them early and often, and that helps them not be oil-burners. So.....get on it right from off the lot. Get into the throttle, let it eat, and then back off and let it cool off. Take it to redline, it's actually good for it. Heat and pressure bed things in. Those that baby their Coyotes end up with oil-burners.
Also, if the oil level is nearing the bottom dot, just chuck a quart in. They take 10 quarts, so if you're a bit over or under it doesn't hurt anything.
And also, use Mobil1 or some other quality full synthetic. 5-20, 5-30, 5-50....doesn't matter. The Mach 1 requires paying a Gas-guzzler tax, but regular Coyote GTs do not. So Ford is fine specifying 5-30 in the Mach 1, and sacrificing MPGs. But they're all the same motors internally, so use whatever oil you think is best.
Yea im fairly confident I broke it in right. I didnt beat it but I wasnt too ginger either. This oil wont be in too long and Ill prob switch to a full synth next time.
Mustang looks so much better than Comoros. Them being next to each you can really see how much chevy trying to copy Mustangs.
UPR sells billet drain plug. Next time I do an oil change will be one of the things I will buy to do the job.
So my 2019 Bullitt calls for 5w20. Wonder what the difference is between the two engines that yours is 5w 30? Thought they were the same engines? Thanks!
Great vid. Wish you would’ve shown where you placed the Jack….
Check out my newer video where i make a modification for a 4 post lift. In that video you can see where jack from. Its hard to see with the cover installed underneath but is a metal support spanning between the frame rails beneath the steering assy.
@@truckandroll989 I’ve been Going through them. Keep it up
Thanks for the video. What's your break-in procedure. Do you keep the revs below 5k rpm's?
So I think the first 100 miles are most crucial. You really go easy there. For me i kept it under 5k mostly. Maybe a couple runs after I had over 500mi to like 6000. I didnt baby it but i wasnt out there racing it either.
@@truckandroll989 It's crucial with Coyotes to beat on them early. Right from the first mile. If you don't, you'll end up with an oil-burner. I'm not saying drive it at the redline for miles at a time, but take it to the redline, then back off. Then get on it, then back off. The manual says "do not drive at a steady throttle", and that means get on it, get off it. Get on it, get off it. Coyotes need heat and pressure to bed in.
@@glock22357 Humbly I don't think so, new engines due to friction for new parts, will always require a break in, there will come years to push it and even a bid of abuse.
@@ralphluces4965 I've owned three of them. Have one now. I'm deep in the Mustang forum community and notice trends with oil consumption issues. Those that baby their motors early, have oil-burners.
I like the new mach 1. I have a 15GT and am getting an aftermarket intake manifold soon. I may switch it to 5w30 after that.
It looks like since the mach 1 is a coyote with the gt350 intake parts - maybe that’s why Ford recommends the 30 weight oil.
Black oil after 1000 miles doesn't seem normal at all from my mustang experience. Great job and good luck.
Meh theres going to be assembly lube, any metal broke breaking it in, etc. i dont think its too worrying
Ford recommends no oil on filter seal but also fo torque the filter to 44 inche pounds as well
Great and informative video 😊👍
I'm an experienced new Ford vehicle purchaser & I've learned a very long time ago that unlike harley davidson,the 1st oil change is free.
Hopefully this helps someone so they don't have to waste their time and money.
Yea I hear you. Im one of those weird people who doesnt like other people handling their stuff. Often times the oil change comes with a car wash aka a bristle wash with dirty tools, and the lot tech starts your car and beats on it or wtv, etc. i know i sound crazy but I just prefer to be the person who messes with it. That being said Ive been working on cars since before I can drive, Im a Mechanical Engineer by school/profession, etc. so Im fairly comfortable with everything and the money side doesnt bother me.
I just got a 2021 Mach 1 and after stepping out of car I’m noticing a oil smell. It has 6,000 miles on it.
If your going to track these GT Mach Bullet etc Ford does recommend 5w/50 full syn
So if you could only have one, the Mach 1or the ZL1, which would you choose and why? I'm looking at both of these cars for my next purchase and would like to hear your opinion. Thanks!
It really comes down to what purpose will this car serve. If you aren’t into modifications, dont plan on dailying it, and want a really fast modern car that hauls in a straight line and can do track days too than the ZL1. All around most enjoyable car to drive (if you can sacrifice a bit of straight line performance) the Mach 1 hands down. I couldn’t drive the ZL1 every day…period. However it is always a treat when I do occasionally drive it and have all the torque everywhere in every gear.
@@truckandroll989 First, thanks very much for the quick reply. My next vehicle will serve as my daily so I appreciate the comparison. I have a few other cars on my list and I'm trying to soak up as much advice as possible. Thanks again!
This is what the BUllitt should have been all along, but is what it is. Shame I was close to buying one but the ergonomics for me don't work out. Peddles are too high off the floor for me to modulate, they do sound amazing. Ah well shall stick with my Challenger.
Yea I dont disagree. Its basically a bullet plus a few little extra doo dads. Super fun car. Much spicier now that Ive added the twin turbos. Theres many more videos on this playlist and Ive got another fun one coming shortly. More parts coming in this week
Great video! I do wonder why the mach's require 5w-30 when the motors are identical internally with the exception of an intake/intake manifold. My performance pack only recommends 5w-30 for track day usage and then to change back to 5w-20...just odd
After 2020 and up, ford recommends 5w30 for the famous coyote engine tick. Mach1, Bullit, or Mustangs GT’s have the same exact engine. There is no difference internally. Only difference is on the mach1 and bullit is a gt350 intake manifold, intake and ecu calibrations thats it
@@hialeahhigh Thanks for the info and reply...do you happen to have a link to any documentation on the updated ford oil recommendation? I would like to stay in the know as much as possible.
@@troyjohnson2627 no specific link, just knowledge i have acquire on the coyote platform. Shops as aldo welds, midnight performance, Alejando Flores, lund racing all share knowledge on thr coyote platform on RUclips great people
@@troyjohnson2627 i can maybe answer any questions you might have if i can help as well
I have a spec sheet that calls for 5-20 and it is Mach 1 specific
My 2021 GT's oil filler cap says 5w-30....I think they updates all coyotes to 5w-30 for 2021
For those that have asked I have gone back to check filter tightness (it is rock solid).
Best full synthetic oil on the market in my opinion is Liquimoly.
I've been reading the manual as I wait for mine to arrive and looks like the first recommended change is at 10k. Is that normal now for new cars? I thought I remembered my 15 F150 having a 600 mile oil service, but maybe I'm wrong. I will probably do it at 1000 after the break in either way, just curious what the norm is now.
Yea the break in oil change is not required per the manual but rather my peace of mind. Like i mentioned you can get ten quarts of synthetic oil and a filter for around $50 if you shop around so to me it is money well spent. That being said it is not required.
great content
👍
I appreciate you watching!
Of the 6 ford service departments that I have gone to every one has told to not put any oil in the filter but to just put an extremely thin coat of oil on the seal .
Thats very odd. Ive been doing oil changes a long time and not putting oil in the filter itself means the that the oil needs to be filled on startup which could momentarily
Result in starvation. Is it going to kill your motor? Is there any reason not to do it? Also no. Dont always listen to what people say without thinking about it a bit
My 2021 mustang gt 5.0 calls for 5/30
In 2021 the GTs no matter the trim call for 5W-30. My 2020 calls for 5W-20 but I ask for 5W-30 when I get it serviced. Only reason I dont do it myself is to maintain warranty that way they cant blame me for anything.
Im honestly more worried about the dealership messing things up (albeit probably not an oil change). I had two MT-82s replaced under warranty and my car had a CAI, long tubes, mgw shifter, etc. this was back in 2014 but sometimes they are cool
@@truckandroll989 Trust me it’s not that I trust them more! In fact the opposite lol. I just know that if something does go wrong they can’t come back on me and say “well you did this” and that’s why it broke so it’s not covered under warranty. Once my warranty is up I will likely service it myself unless I don’t have the tools to do so. Like a trans swap.
No joke take a look at everything!!!!
My Mach 1 had a leaking snap ring on the diff cooler also it took ford 2 months to get the part.. a damn snap ring causing my diff oil to leak
Damn man that is a good call. I will look under there
10:15 I’m not joking with you and I know it seems completely counter intuitive but per ford specs it says DO NOT lubricate the new Oring. I don’t know why but if you ask your ford dealer they will tell you put it on dry to something like 44 inch pounds. I know how to do this stuff I just like watching others experiences with these awesome machines.
Great information. Thanks.
You must have ran that new 5.0 very hard to already have oil usage and such dirty oil.
I’ve got 1850 miles on mine and will be changing the oil at 2000. I check the level every week and can’t see any usage but it’s difficult to check since the oil on the stick is as clean as new.
Just to follow up the level may not have actually been all that low. Im seeing on a fresh change oil reads pretty much in the middle of the dipstick so it could have been me thinking it was using oil when in reality it was not or only slightly. As for the color yes it is what it is. I didnt kill it during the break in but I bought it to drive it - headed back to the track in 2wks
10:21 per ford never pre-fill your filter. You don’t know if contaminant got in those bottles during production. These are all per Ford Instructions.
Link to Ford instructions? Thanks
What do you like better the Mach1 or the Camaro?
For me the Mach 1 is more enjoyable. The stock supercharger on the Zl1 is addicting though. However if i had to pick one the Mach 1 (especially now that i have added boost)
Interesting about the oil consumption. I'm about to hit 1,000 miles on my Mach 1 as well. I will check the oil level for sure and I plan to do my first oil change. Latest I have heard is that you are NOT supposed to oil the filter gasket. Supposedly these cars have vibration issues and Ford says not the oil the lip. Goes against everything I have ever heard but I guess I won't oil mine. Thanks for the video.
Thats super weird. I was surprised that the FOMOCO filter was smaller than Motorcrafr
@@truckandroll989 oil consumption is normal with a fresh motor it’s still in the process of seating the piston rings
@@hardlycreations Agreed. I was not that worried about it but it’s something that most people probably don’t think to check on a new car
The vibration issues were with the GT350 motor ...oil the gasket or you will have trouble getting the filter off.
Please get a JLT catch can! It will save you a lot of headaches I promise!
Upr is the way to go!
You seem very thorough and meticulous, so why not go full synthetic?
A few reasons. First, I will probably change my oil around 5k miles or the next time I tear into the motor. Boost is likely in the future but OPG would need to be installed first meaning the oil would get drained. Therefore IMO if you aren’t running it out to 7-9k miles and truly using the computer’s change interval recommendations than full synthetic is a waste. Second both oils are approved in the owners manual and meet spec. Im not tracking the car at the moment so the added cost to me for lower mileage change intervals just isn’t worth it. I do plan to install dual catch cans which I believe is good insurance. Otherwise i say just follow the owners manual and if you are worries shrink the interval down to 5k miles and you should be more than safe.
I have a base '21 GT, spec calls for 5-30, not 5-20.
Did you develop a engine tick after the oil change or no?
I did
Gracias, buenos consejos e información.
Yea I keep checking my oil and catch can of course
Mine had a few tablespoons in the passenger side but driver was bone dry. I will be modifying my catch can setup today for the twin turbos. I suspect to start seeing more oil in both sides.
Full Synthetic is much better in my opinion. Love your car bro I also have a Mach 1 🇺🇸💪🏼🐎
What about the oil in the engine oil cooler and associated lines?
In terms of consumption? Yea its possible a bit did not drain out. If the lines are above the drain pan it should gravity feed out. I kept an eye on it since than and it doesnt seem to use any oil
Do NOT lube the new filter seal. Ford's service software says in capital letters bold black DO NOT LUBE NEW OIL FILTER SEAL. It has a very good chance of coming loose if you do so. 👍👍
People are getting all worked up about this and its not an issue. First, the oil filter issue was tied to the 5.2 Voodoo first due to the flat plane crank and the vibration it makes. Second, the boss the filter mates with will always have residual oil on it. Its just gravity. In the amount of time you go to swap filters, even if you were to wipe it dry, another drip will form. In a sense you are lubing that surface whether you mean to or not. Finally the “spec” is 44in lb + 180 degrees. Im going to tell you right now the average person tightens more than that. Ive had multiple Coyotes and do all my own work. There are bigger things to worry about than lubing or not lubing the seal.
@@truckandroll989 you are right according to yourself, but if you bring your car to our Ford dealership, and it's got a 5.0 in it, and I pull the oil filter and there is a ring from oil on the seal line, we will take pics of that and record it on the Ford software. Secondly it CLEARLY states in the owners manual NOT to do this, and it's also on Ford's service software. To each his own, don't know if I would personally roll the dice being cocky and taking that chance to buy an engine. Oh, and as many filters I've done, I've never had residual oil still coming out, but hey maybe I'm doing something wrong 🤷🤷.
@@williamh6547 lol id like to see how a service tech can determine whether a surface was pre lubed or not lol. I think there are bigger fish to fry
Great hair!
I’m tryna get this car when I turn 18🔥
Haha I’m 18 and I’m getting ready to order a 22 Mach 1 premium with the hp, appearance pack, pretty much every option lol
If you buy a Mustang and must "Hammer " it right out of the dealership you are probably one of those complaining about an engine tick in a month or so. Coyotes are not modified truck engines like the LS engines in Camaros. Coyotes have twice as many moving parts that do require break-in. If you must "Hammer" the car right away buy a Camaro take it right to the strip and watch the broken in Coyote pass you on the way to the lights. Very few old-timers complaining about Ford engine noises, it seems to be those who just traded in their V-6 Toyotas for one of those Mustangs they read about and saw on RUclips. Do the right thing and break in your car properly no matter what brand.
Electronics right under the oil filter... ugh. Is the oil pan plastic? It looks plastic.
Yup its plastic. Honestly i dont have a huge issue with that as its pretty well protected but it was a surprise at first
I had a 2017 Mustang V-6 and it had a similar set up. The electronic steering control was right below the oil filter. My 2020 GT has a little more space between em. That funky plastic drain plug can be replaced with a Ronin type one. It's a lot better.
The issue is quality Ford has not made anything for years without recalls .That drain plug is a joke could vibtate loose
My Mach 1 spec sheet calls for 5-20
Very interesting
if is it my car I well use full synthetic red line 5w30 it is a beautiful car it worth the bast oil 👍
Yea Ive swapped to full synth. Oil wont be in it more than 3k miles now that Ive doubled the hp 🤣
All 21 coyotes call for 5w30. Wish ford would give us an explanation. Just goes to show the 5w20 was never specced for optimal engine life.
How about this, ford performance racing school doesn’t even use the 5W-30 they use 5W-50 only as does ford during durability testing. The 5W-30 is for fuel economy only. The boss 302 from 2012 uses 5W-50 and the same FL500-S filter as these cars so I switched. I picked up around 10 psi of pressure across the board.
@@hpkntnw If you are tracking it a lot 5w50 is a good choice. Stock cars or N/A cars with stock rev limits do well with 5w30 and the 5w30 will flow better at startup than the 5w50.
I run 5w50 in mine because it’s boosted.
@@AB-coyote In theory they should flow the exact same when cold. They are both a 5w oil and the track oriented boss 302 ran 5w-50 I’m not sure why these cars don’t from the factory. It’s the same price as the 5w-30.
@@hpkntnw the 5w50 while it has the same “ winter “ rating they definitely will not flow the same when cold. It is significantly thicker when cold than the 30 weight.
While I dont disagree that the shift towards 5w30 across brands is likely due to increased mpg I dont think you NEED 5w50 for a performance engine. Im boosted as well and what I think is arguably more important is more frequent changes and keeping an eye on oil temp before getting on it. I always wait until I see my oil temps > 175 before giving it the beans. From a cost standpoint I think you maybe better off with a higher quality 5w30 thats full synth versus Motorcrafts semi synth blend. Id say save your money, run a better 5w30, and leave the expensive and hard to find 5w50 on the shelf
Why does every tutorial never show the frame point where they jacked it from 🤦🏽♂️
Go to 6:34 (give or take) and you can see exactly where in this video
ruclips.net/video/Zj_dShzKElM/видео.html
@@truckandroll989 thanks for the fast reply , but my mistake. I’m trying to find where to put the floor jack from. At 5:30 I can’t really see where the frame is at , but I could tell you used a piece of wood.
@@leninguzman6181 yea click on the full link in my reply and then go to 6:34. It is a link to a newer video and it will show you zoomed in where I jacked from
5.0, 2021 and up take 5W-30.
Yea thats what i put in it?
@TruckandRoll yes you did, I was sayin that as it applies to all 21 and up GTs not just Mach 1s
Couldn’t be any more difficult than my 2003 Tacoma
A coyote on a mach 1 is the same coyote on every GT. Just with a gt350 manifold and intake its the only difference, change your oil often and dont use that garbage synblend motorcraft crap use motocraft oil filters and good quantity synthetic oil. Monitor the level often and drive it as it was meant to. Beat the crap out of it. AND GET A CATCH CAN FOR IT. Again after 2020 and up Ford recommendeds 5w30 on gen3’s fue to the famous coyote ticking noise. Its not just a “mach 1 thing” again its the same exact engine on every mustan gt, mach1, bullet etc. if you’re gonna be giving it track time, circuit racing etc 5w50 is recommended and please again dont use that Motorcraft Synthetic Blend, its a blend 🤢 coyote see a lot of heat!
Invest in a hair brush next👍👍👍
Ouch
Guy calls the drain plug a filler cap and is wearing hair gloves.
Thanks for watching. Your comments are an inspiration 👌
Break in is a burnout while starting the car
Lol just keep the key turned and let the starter motor spin the tires. I like your style
Yea, we're not gonna do that. 😂
People think that the last model of a car is the best. Sorry they make them MACH 1 from spare parts. The people that assemble these cars are in a hurry to get the old models out and build the new.
Maybe true… but its got twin turbos on it now making near 1000whp… so it is pretty damn good. Best part is it still has the stock clutch. It might be a parts bin car but they are great fucking parts!
10 quarts!! Wtf?!
Please Please please don't prefill your oil filter
Lol theres no harm in pre filling your oil filter. But im all ears and interested in why you think that. Did you mean pre lube the gasket?
“filder”
The 1970's are over - 🤣🤣🤣
So is making fun of strangers on the internet… but yet here we are 🤫
@@truckandroll989 chill out man - it's all in fun don't be so defensive - geeeeez 🙄🤷♂
On today’s episode of new terms for old people the word is “gaslighting”
A plastic drain plug! What the hell is wrong with Ford?
Just an idea but you might be better off changing the oil filter from the top, cold air intake comes out in about a minute and then lay two or three old t-shirts on those power steering electrical wires and then just reach under and take out the filter... instead of messing with the underbelly plastic and being underneath it.
Thats a pretty good idea. Its got twin turbos now so the CAI is gone but replaced with the upper charge pipe. Ill have to see if I have the space
💖🇺🇲 🦈👍🏻
Your garage is too clean. I am guessing no kids.
Lol we are DINKs
Please do yourself a favor and throw that trash motorcraft oil away. Especially that synthetic blend. Please use reputable oil from good brands. Amsoil, Motul, MOBIL1, Redline etc etc
Idkn if id call Motorcraft trash. I run pennzoil ultra synth now and change religiously at 3k mi due to turbos